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Grand Seiko SBGN021 Review: Your Next Quartz GADA Watch

Posted on October 25, 2024December 8, 2024 by Paul Rothbart

Okay, fellow watch nerds. A question. What is the one type of watch we all must have in our collections? Some of you may have said a beefy diver. Others a sleek chronograph. Maybe you love an elegant dress watch or a cool-as-hell tourbillon.

Think in more general terms. What we all need is a GADA watch. A timepiece that looks and feels great that we can wear with almost any outfit to almost any occasion. The type of watch that suits your GADA needs may differ from mine, but I would like to suggest a Grand Seiko reference.

You may be thinking, “Grand Seiko does dress watches, I rarely wear a suit”. Well, as it turns out, the esteemed Japanese brand does some terrific sport watches, too. One of them is the SBGN021.

This quartz movement GMT timepiece has the stunning design, reliability, and accuracy you’d expect from Grand Seiko in a watch you could wear every day, no matter where you are headed. Let’s take a look at this GS masterpiece.

History

The beginning of the SBGN021 story is 2018, when Grand Seiko introduced the caliber 9F86 movement, the brand’s first quartz GMT. From that time on, Grand Seiko has used the movement in an ever-growing lineup of sport watches.

In 2021, GS added three stunning GMTs to the sport collection, one of which was the SBGN021. The release of these watches celebrated the 140th anniversary of the brand, and they certainly went all out in creating a watch that can hold its own with any brand’s GMT.

With the clean lines typical of Grand Seiko and the incredible accuracy of quartz, along with the cool factor of a GMT function, this is truly a watch that would be a favorite in anyone’s stable.

Case

The 40 mm round stainless steel case features Grand Seiko’s trademark mix of brushing and Zaratsu polishing for a look that really pops and catches the light beautifully. The size works well on a variety of wrists.

40 mm is right in the wheelhouse for my 7.25-inch wrist. The short tapered lugs put the lug-to-lug at just 46.7 mm, so the watch wears a bit smaller than a typical 40 mm case and works well on smaller wrists.

As expected with a GMT, the case is on the thick side at 13.7 mm, but you won’t likely be wearing this with dress shirts or suits, and the thickness nicely balances the other case dimensions.

The 24-hour bezel is scratch-resistant ceramic in a deep blue that pairs well with the dial. The screw-down solid case back, along with the screw-down crown, gives it a robust 200 meters of water resistance.

You probably don’t want to wear this watch while searching for Davy Jones’ locker, but you can certainly swim with it. The case is also anti-magnetic to 200 gauss, which is not a bad feature to have.

The crown sits at the 4 o’clock position. Not everyone likes the asymmetry, but with the date window in the same position, the look is unique and pretty symmetrical. The crown is slightly recessed, which gives the case a narrower look. It’s the kind of sleek design we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko.

The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protrudes slightly above the dial. This adds a bit of thickness but also contributes to the clean lines. Naturally, it is anti-reflective coated, which will let you take a good look at the stunning dial.

Dial

Grand Seiko has a sterling reputation for many things. Perhaps what they are best known for is their dials. The colors, the textures, the complementary handsets, and the way they react to light rank the beauty of their dials high among the world’s best.

You can include the SBGN021 in that esteemed group. The deep blue dial matches that bezel and has an incredible sunburst pattern with lines radiating from the center to the edges. It reminds me of the Seiko Presage Cocktail time dials.

In low light, you see a pretty shade of blue, but when the light hits the dial, the sunburst pops like the first rays of daylight peeking over the horizon. You may find that you have trouble taking your eyes off it. I know I do.

Sitting under the crystal at the edge of the dial is a two-tone deep and light blue day/night display. Ticks sit at the hour marks, and there are ticks for each minute on the rehaut. The 12 o’clock index is an inverted trapezoid, and there are batons at the other hours. Each of the indices has three horizontal segments, with the center filled with Grand Seiko’s Lumibrite for easy viewing at night.

The polished stainless-steel hands match the indices and complement the dial. The hour and minute hands have Lumibrite inserts. The GMT hand is a light blue arrow with Lumibrite and matches the letters “GMT” at six o’clock.

Sitting at 12 is the trademark Grand Seiko logo and name. The 4 o’clock date window is a subtle black numeral on a white background, so it’s easy to see without drawing attention away from the gorgeous dial.

The dial gives the watch the sporty feel you would expect from a GMT but has an elegance more akin to a dress watch.

Movement

The SBGN021 is powered by Grand Seiko’s in-house 9F86 quartz GMT movement. Yes, as horological enthusiasts, we tend to revere automatic movements, but don’t be so quick to dismiss this one. The SBGN021 is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per year. You won’t be adjusting the time often at all with this movement.

Then, there is the convenience of a quartz. No winding. You could put your watch in a case for a week, a month, or even a year, and it will still keep accurate time.

The GMT function can come in handy if you travel across time zones frequently or do business with people in other parts of the country or world.

Even if that’s not the case, consider the cool factor. I love complications on watches. Having additional functions on my wrist without having to go the smartwatch route is appealing, and the GMT function is one of my favorites.

The SBGN021 is a true GMT, meaning that you can set just the hour hand to a new time zone while leaving the GMT set to home time. The ease of use and convenience make this a good watch for those just beginning to expand their collections.

Straps

The three-link stainless-steel bracelet is classic and sporty. It closes with a three-fold clasp. The end links have an integrated look as they sit flush against the case. This adds to the clean and elegant design. The bracelet is mostly brushed but has polished facets for a bit of contrast.

The bracelet has a slight taper that makes it comfortable as it conforms to the wrist. With the bracelet, this timepiece weighs 170 grams.

That’s not light, but it’s not cumbersome either, and you will quickly get used to it if you are accustomed to lighter watches. The adjustment is done using screws, and there is no micro-adjustment. However, there are half links to help get a good fit.

The 20 mm lugs are drilled, so if you ever want to change the bracelet, it will be easy to do. Honestly, the watch looks great as is.

On-Wrist Experience

Being a sporty GADA watch, you can wear the SBGN021 with nearly any kind of outfit. Obviously, it won’t pair with anything formal, but not many of us still wear suits. Although it’s a casual timepiece, it can class up a variety of outfits from shorts and a t-shirt to chinos and a polo shirt.

The blue is a dark shade which works as a neutral color. The dial and bezel will likely coordinate with at least 90% of your wardrobe. Cool colors like greens and blues, or hot ones like reds, oranges, and yellows, can all style nicely with this watch. Earthtones look great with the blue dial, too.

The 40 mm case will suit a wide variety of wrists, from small to even many on the large side. It’s a bit hefty but not super heavy due to the quartz movement, and with the bracelet and narrow lug-to-lug, it’s comfortable to wear on a daily basis. I find the SBGN021 feels as good as any watch in my collection.

If you are a traveler, this is the watch you want to hit the road with. The GMT function is incredibly useful, as is the accurate timekeeping, and the style will work with whatever you wear in any kind of climate. The quartz accuracy will make sure you are on time for any work or play events.

Full disclosure: I don’t own one of these beauties, but I have had the pleasure of trying one several times, and it is high on my list of future purchases.

Price & Availability

Now that you are aware of how good a watch the SBGN021 is, perhaps you’re ready to try one on and buy it. They are readily available at any Grand Seiko boutique or from the brand’s website.

You can also get one from an authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. If you’re in the neighborhood, stop by our Naples, FL boutique to try one on and chat with the friendly sales staff.

You can also buy one on Exquisite Timepieces with free shipping in the U.S. As an AD, we offer the Grand Seiko a 5-year warranty. This is one of Grand Seiko’s more affordable watches at just $4,550 retail. That’s a lot of bang for your buck.

Should you decide to go the pre-owned route, you can grab a used SBGN021 for between $3,800 and $4,300.

Conclusion

Every watch enthusiast needs a true GADA watch. You need that dependable timepiece that you can wear day after day on your mundane and amazing adventures. There are many options out there, but the Grand Seiko SBGN021 deserves serious consideration.

Sporty elegance with accuracy, reliability, along with the prestige of the Grand Seiko name, make this a watch you need to check out. Be a globetrotter, or just dress like one.

Grand Seiko SBGW279 Review: Compact, Affordable, and Gorgeous

Posted on October 25, 2024December 8, 2024 by Paul Rothbart

For a watch aficionado like me (that sounds better than watch nerd, although the latter is more accurate), reviewing a stunning timepiece is a pleasure. When it comes to Grand Seiko watches, I’m almost giddy.

This Japanese brand consistently produces watches with clean, classic lines, gorgeous dials, and accurate and reliable movements that rival anything that comes out of Switzerland.

The Grand Seiko SBGW279 Oruri is another of the brand’s triumphs. Named for a beautiful blue songbird that migrates to Japan at the start of every summer, the SBGW279 is elegant, classy, and a watch you want in your collection. Best of all, this U.S. special edition retails for less than $5,000. How do they do it? Let’s take a close look at this incredible timepiece.

History

Recent years have seen a trend toward smaller watches more in line with the case sizes of earlier times. Grand Seiko has been at the forefront of this trend, releasing a number of watches that are an homage to the first Grand Seiko watch. Released in 1960, the granddaddy of the brand was a three-hand dress watch with a 35 mm case and a brown leather strap.

With the return to smaller, more classic watches, Grand Seiko released the SBGW279 in 2022. Like its forebear, it is a basic three-hand dress watch with a smaller case and brown leather strap. Paired with a modern movement, this timepiece carries the elegance of the earlier period with the reliability and accuracy of a modern watch.

Case

The classic round case is stainless steel and measures 37.3 mm with a lug-to-lug of 44.3 mm and a slim thickness of 11.6 mm. This is significantly smaller than the 40-42 mm watches that make up most of my collection, but it does look good on my average 7.25-inch wrist.

The smaller size only adds to the class, and the watch will easily slide under the cuffs of the dress shirts you will be wearing. The design of this watch is very well thought-out, and its dimensions reflect that.

The case has brushed and polished surfaces using Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu technique. The contrast between the surfaces adds depth and makes the case stand out in the subtle way you want a dress watch to.

The finishing creates clean lines on the lugs, adding to the elegant good looks. With Grand Seiko, small details matter and show in every watch they craft.

A box-shaped double-domed sapphire crystal makes up a good part of the thickness and protects the dial while adding to the classic lines. The exhibition case back is also covered by a sapphire crystal. The scratch resistance of the material and the anti-reflective coating ensure that you will always get a good look at the dial and movement.

The crown is a standard push-pull, which is all you need for a dress watch. It’s a bit larger in size but still pairs nicely with the aesthetic of the case, which makes it a little easier to wind. The water resistance is 30 meters, which is enough to protect your timepiece if you get caught in the rain, but this is strictly a dry land watch. Unless you’re dating a mermaid, you don’t need a dress watch underwater anyway.

Dial

I am a card-carrying member of the “It’s all about the dial” club of watch lovers. It’s where you look most of the time and the part of the watch that first catches the eye. The SBGW279 gets high marks for its dial design.

The Japanese have a reverence for nature, and the deep blue color of the dial matches the feathers of the watch’s namesake songbird. The sunray finish reacts beautifully with varying light levels, and you may almost think you have multiple dials. I have a thing for blue watches, and this is one of the nicest I have ever seen.

The stainless steel applied indices are baton-style with double batons at three, six, nine, and 12 o’clock. Matched with the stainless dauphine handset, these Zaratsu polished features contrast the dial beautifully. The Grand Seiko name and logo applied at 12 o’clock is the finishing touch on this masterpiece of a dial.

The minimalist design is exactly what you want in a high-end dress watch. It keeps excellent time and looks fantastic while doing so. It’s what we’ve all come to expect from Grand Seiko.

Movement

Grand Seiko has a great reputation for its movements that are made in-house, and the SBGW279 does not disappoint. The watch is powered by the 9S64 caliber movement. The heart of the timepiece is hand-assembled by expert craftspeople and is a manual wind, but with a very generous 72-hour power reserve, you won’t have to wind it that often.

If you take it off Friday after work, it will still be running Monday morning. Even when you do have to wind it, it’s a great opportunity to bond with this incredible watch. I honestly enjoy looking at the dial while winding.

The movement is rated at +10 to -1 seconds per day. Each watch is adjusted at six different points for accuracy that rivals COSC standards. Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can get a good look at the movement and show it to your friends.

It’s beautifully finished with polished and brushed surfaces, the Grand Seiko name and logo, and the movement specs in gold. Leave it to Grand Seiko to put as much thought into the appearance of the movement as they did in the dial.

Straps

The Oruri comes with a standard strap, which is a beauty. Hand-made from crocodile leather, the brown color is a stunning contrast to the dial and makes the watch pop.

The strap’s underside is soft and wraps nicely around the wrist, making for a comfortable wearing experience. Brown and blue complement each other perfectly. Put on a navy blue suit with a brown belt and shoes and this watch, and you will be the best-dressed person in the room.

The strap features stitching, which is contrary to most high-end Grand Seiko straps, which are stitchless. If you prefer a strap without stitches, it’s easy enough to switch out the strap, thanks to the drilled lugs.

On-Wrist Experience

Now, let’s move on to what you really want to know. What’s it like to wear the Grand Seiko SBGW279? I am happy to report it is a pleasurable experience. With its compact case, it feels light and the strap holds the watch securely but comfortably on the wrist.

As to styling the watch with your outfits, naturally, as a classic dress watch, you’ll wear it with dressier outfits from smart casual to more formal. With the blue dial, you’ll immediately think of blue shirts.

However, as I said earlier, I am partial to blue dials, and one of the things I love about them is that darker blues are almost neutral. This dial will work with gray, white, or black shirts and will set up a nice contrast with pinks or hot colors. Thanks to the brown strap, it can also work with earth tones.

I have lots of fun putting together outfits with the Oruri, and it gives me plenty of options. The 37.3 mm case slides easily under any cuff. It does suit most small and average-sized wrists, but if your wrist is approaching 8 inches, you may find it a bit too small for your taste.

The SBGW279 is not one of those blingy, ostentatious watches that I hate. But when someone does notice it, they will know at a glance that you are a person of style and taste. This can honestly boost your confidence.

Price & Availability

If you are interested (and why wouldn’t you be?) and considering buying a Grand Seiko SBGW279 Oruri, you can pick one up at a Grand Seiko boutique or on the brand’s website.

A Grand Seiko authorized dealer is an ideal place to purchase this gorgeous timepiece. Exquisite Timepieces is a Grand Seiko AD. You can visit our Naples, FL boutique or purchase an Oruri on our website. By purchasing from an AD, you will get Grand Seiko’s five-year warranty.

Another great thing about Grand Seiko watches is the price, which is far less than most luxury brands. A brand-new SBGW279 can be yours for just $4,600. If you want to go preowned, you can pick one up in the range of $3,500-$3,800.

Conclusion

Grand Seiko launched its first watch in 1960. It was a classic dress watch, and over the decades, the brand has continued to innovate and release some truly stunning watches. The SBGW279 Oruri is a tribute to that original timepiece with a modern movement. Along with the other tribute special editions, it further boosts the brand’s already sterling reputation.

Its unique and classic design, along with its accuracy and build quality, make this a watch that every lover of horology should have in their collection. When you put it on, the smile on your face will let you know that the Oruri is the bluebird of happiness.

Are Apple Watches banned? Apple Watch Lawsuit

Posted on October 11, 2024October 25, 2024 by Paul Rothbart

Personally, I’m an analog watch guy. Nothing beats an old-school timepiece. Having said that, there is no denying the usefulness of a smartwatch and although it’s not my daily wrist companion, I do own one.

Among the smartwatch brands, Apple is one of the most popular. When it comes to tech, the company has an enormous fan base, and the watches are no exception. Apple has stepped on the toes of smaller competitors in the recent past and has been accused of stealing employees and technology. You may have heard that Apple watch sales have been banned in the U.S.

Understandably, this is an area of concern for Apple lovers who are in the market for a new watch. Is it true? The simple answer is yes. This doesn’t mean you can’t buy any Apple watch in the U.S. There’s a bit more to it than that. Let’s get into the how, why, and when.

All About the Apple Watch Lawsuit

Perhaps the best features of smartwatches are their fitness and health apps. Tracking steps, calories burned, pulse rate, sleep quality, and other health-related issues is enormously useful. Tech of this type is an excellent tool in the battle to maintain a healthy body.

The health-monitoring features of smart watches continue to evolve, and it’s almost like wearing a doctor on your wrist. It is in this aspect of smart technology that Apple ran into trouble.

Released in 2020, the Apple Series 6 smartwatch featured technology to monitor blood oxygen levels along with heart rate. The innovation proved popular, and Apple has used it in successive new watch releases.

The release of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 smartwatches in 2023 is where the trouble started. Masimo, a medical tech company based in Irvine, CA, developed and patented the pulse oxygen sensing tech in 2020.

Masimo, which has had problems with Apple in the past, filed a lawsuit in 2023 claiming patent infringement on the pulse oximetry technology used in the watches.

In October of that year, the U.S. International Trade Commission ruled that Apple had indeed infringed on Masimo’s patents and placed a ban on the sale of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 in the United States.

In December, Apple managed to get the court to place a stay on the ban and put the watches in question back on the market, but it was short-lived. Before the end of the year, the ban was back in place, leaving the tech giant to come up with a new sales plan while fighting the lawsuit.

On January 18, 2024, Apple released new versions of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 in which the blood oxygen sensing technology is disabled. These versions are still available so you can buy Apple watches in the U.S. The sensors will not work, even if you are wearing the watch in another country.

In April 2024, Apple filed an appeal with the U.S. Court of Appeals Federal Circuit, claiming that the ITC’s decision to ban the sale of the watches was based on a series of defective patent rulings. Thus far, the ban remains in place. Apple continues its fight and will likely come to some kind of settlement with Masimo involving licensing of the tech. In the meantime, only the watches with the sensor disabled can be sold.

Can You Buy Apple Watches Today?

The main question fans of Apple want an answer as to whether you currently buy their watches. Yes, Apple watches are still available in the U.S. The altered versions of the Series 9 and Ultra 2 are legal to sell, as are any other models.

Provided the O2 sensor technology is not activated, any Apple watch can be purchased. In fact, the company’s CEO Tim Cook emphatically stated that there are still good reasons to buy the watches even without the disputed technology.

Because the lawsuit is contested in U.S. courts, Apple watches with the oxygen sensor tech can still be purchased in Canada, the UK, and most other nations.

Other Notable Apple Watch Lawsuits

The Masimo lawsuit is not the first time a company or individual has filed a complaint against the tech giant. Apple has a history of conflict with other tech companies in and out of court.

AliveCor, a medical tech company that sells heart-monitoring devices, filed a suit against Apple in 2021, claiming that the company was abusing its power as a monopoly against competitors in the heart-monitoring market.

AliveCor filed several patent-infringement lawsuits claiming that its cofounder demonstrated Kardiaband, a heart monitoring device, to executives at Apple at a meeting in 2015. The suits allege that Apple developed its own tech a year after the meeting and announced its release just hours after AliveCor announced the release of the Kardia Band.

The suit alleges a patent violation and further claims that Apple went on to dominate the market and block third parties from selling competing products.

In 2019, a New York cardiologist, Joseph Wiesel, filed a lawsuit against Apple in Federal Court. Weisel claimed the company infringed on his patent on a tool that monitors heart irregularities. A court date has not been set, but Apple was granted a temporary stay.

Even Masimo has squabbled with Apple in the past. In 2013, Apple hired an engineer and 20 other employees who had previously worked for Masimo. The smaller company claimed that Apple did so to steal tech the ex-employees had developed.

Conclusion

Apple is a mammoth tech company and as such, has had its share of run-ins with smaller companies claiming patent infringements and other issues. Apple generally works its way to a solution and keeps rolling along.

For American fans of Apple watches, at least for the foreseeable future, you won’t be able to purchase a watch with the O2 sensor technology. It’s likely that Apple and Masimo will eventually reach a settlement. In the meantime, you can still buy Apple watches with plenty of health and other useful features.

Grand Seiko SBGH343 Review: Admiring the “Sakura-Wakaba”

Posted on September 18, 2024December 8, 2024 by Paul Rothbart

Quick. Name a country that produces quality watches. Most of you probably said, “Switzerland”, and that is a correct answer. However, Japan produces some of the world’s finest timepieces, and at the top of that list is Grand Seiko.

Quality, elegance, accuracy, and style are words that apply to the watches in the catalog of this prestigious brand. A recent release to Grand Seiko’s heritage collection is the SBGH343 Sakura-Wakaba.

A nod to the legendary 62GS, the brand’s first automatic watch, the SBGH343 comes with a 38mm case, reversing the trend toward larger watches. Nature is a vital part of Japanese culture, and this timepiece pays tribute to the cherry blossoms or sakura trees that the people of Japan revere.

I really like this watch. I cannot express that enough. Let’s take an in-depth look at this stunning recent release by the brilliant watchmakers at Grand Seiko.

History

In 1967, Grand Seiko released its first automatic watch, the 62GS. It was an instant hit, with its textured dial, bezel-less case, and Grand Seiko’s signature brushing and Zaratsu polishing, creating a mirrored finish.

The brand’s heritage collection pays tribute to this iconic timepiece. 2019 saw the release of an updated 62GS with a 40mm titanium case. Jump ahead to 2023, and Grand Seiko releases a new model that keeps the titanium but goes back to a smaller 38mm case.

The SBGH343 is a stunning watch that combines modern and classic aesthetics. Add in Grand Seiko’s reliability and durability, and you’ve got one hell of a dress watch.

Case

As mentioned, the titanium case reverses the recent trend of larger watches and comes in at a more classic 38mm. With a 44.7mm lug-to-lug width, it’s a fairly small watch. I generally wear watches in the 41-42mm range on my average 7.25-inch wrist, so I was a little skeptical about how the SBGH343 would suit me.

I’m happy to report that it looks just fine. If you have an average or smaller wrist, odds are this watch will look great on you. Bigger people with wrists approaching 8 inches will likely find it on the small side.

The 12.9mm case thickness is a little on the chunky side for a dress watch. You can slide it under the sleeve, but not as easily as with a thinner watch. I button my cuffs with the outer button to maximize the width, and I manage.

The titanium case is finished with brushed and polished surfaces. This is something Grand Seiko does extremely well, and combined with the sharp lines, the case complements the dial and bracelet beautifully. The use of the titanium does add a bit of ruggedness, allowing you to wear the watch with more casual attire.

The crown features the Grand Seiko logo and is actually a screw-down. This was a nice surprise. Coupled with the 100-meter water resistance, you could swim wearing this watch. However, it is a dress watch, and it’s not likely you’ll be invited to a formal function by a school of fish, so keep it on dry land.

The box-shaped sapphire crystal adds to the overall thickness, but I think that’s a good tradeoff, as it gives the watch a nice vintage look that adds an extra touch of class. The case back is a screw-on sapphire crystal. Both front and back are treated on the inside with an anti-reflective coating that makes sure you get a good look at the dial and movement.

Dial

In Grand Seiko tradition, the dial of the SBGH343 is truly a work of art that pays homage to nature. I tend to like more conservative dial colors. The majority of watches in my collection are black, white, or blue. I also like a green dial, and most brands offer models in this color. But nobody does a green like the one on the SBGH343.

In Japan, festivals that celebrate the blooming of the sakura tree each spring take place throughout the nation from south to north as the cherry blossoms appear. The incredible dial on this stunning timepiece is a light green color that mimics the sakura leaves in the early stages of growth.

There is so much more to the dial than just the unusual shade of green. The texture adds depth and resembles the subtle brush strokes of watercolors on linen. Grand Seiko is known for their beautifully-textured dials, and this is one of their finest. You really need to see it in person to appreciate it, so I recommend popping into your local authorized dealer if you can.

Complimenting the dial are the silver baton indices and hands. They feature both polished and brushed surfaces, which gives them depth. The Grand Seiko logo is applied at 12 o’clock with the name printed underneath.

Grand Seiko’s attention to detail is on display in the 3 o’clock date window. At first glance, it may look like a typical presentation of this common complication, but look closer. The window is framed in the same polished silver as the hands and has a black numeral.

Beneath the number, the background has the same linen texture as the dial. Subtle? Certainly, but these seemingly small touches are among the things that make Grand Seiko one of the best watchmakers in the business.

Finishing the dial is the minute track along the outer edge. Basic black ticks are functional and don’t interfere with the aesthetic of the dial. You may find yourself checking the time more frequently than normal just to get a look at the incredible dial. I know I did.

Movement

The SBGH343 has more than just good looks going for it. The timepiece is powered by Grand Seiko’s in-house Hi-Beat Caliber 9S85 movement. A frequency of 36,000 vph, 37 jewels, and magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m give this watch a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day. The automatic movement has a generous power reserve of 55 hours.

In addition to providing a high degree of accuracy, the movement is as beautiful as the rest of the watch. Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can view the brushed and polished stripe pattern and see the Grand Seiko name engraved in gold on the rotor.

The caliber, number of jewels, position, and temperature adjustment information are also engraved in gold on the movement. Your fellow watch nerds will love getting a look at the back of your SBGH343, and even your horologically-challenged friends may be impressed.

For the most part, you can let the movement do its job while you enjoy the timepiece. If it’s not your everyday wearer, you may have to set and wind it before putting it on. But you get to look at that dial while you do it.

Straps

The SBGH343 comes with a three-link high-intensity titanium bracelet. The surfaces are mostly polished with brushing on the edges of the center links. The bracelet matches up nicely with the case and makes for an elegant yet somewhat sporty look.

The titanium makes for a lightweight feel, and the bracelet wraps nicely around the wrist, and I found it to be very comfortable to wear. Typical of a Grand Seiko titanium bracelet, it is held together with push pins, which makes it a bit tricky to size.

There is no micro-adjustment, however, there are half links, so you should be able to get close to a nice fit on your wrist. The three-fold clasp has a push-button release and feels as good on the wrist as the rest of the bracelet.

The 20mm lug width and drilled lugs make it easy to change to a different bracelet or strap if you so desire. Personally, I would stick with the stock bracelet. It is designed to pair with the case and dial to give you a watch that is a work of art.

On-Wrist Experience

So, what’s it like to wear the Grand Seiko SBGH343? To quote Larry David, it feels “pretty, pretty, pretty good”. If you’ve never worn a titanium watch, the first thing you will notice is how significantly lighter it is than a stainless steel or other metal watch. The bracelet wraps comfortably around the wrist, and the clasp is secure and does not feel restrictive.

The 38mm case and 44.7mm lug-to-lug add to the comfort level. We all know the feeling of having the crown poke into the back of the hand with a larger case. You won’t face this problem with the SBGH343. The dial is easy to read at a glance, and the high degree of accuracy will help keep you on time for your most important appointments.

The smaller case size makes it an excellent choice to wear with a suit or sport coat. It has a nice dressy look. This case is on the thick side. Although it will slide under most shirt cuffs, some find it a bit too chunky for formal attire. If you have an 8-inch or thicker wrist, you will likely find it just too small.

The green dial can go with the most conservative jacket colors. Certainly, it works well with black or any shade of gray. I also like it with navy blue. If you are a bit more of an adventurous dresser and like lighter blues, burgundies, or pink, you will likely find it clashes.

For me, the appearance of a watch on the wrist is only half the story. A timepiece can give you a sense of confidence and take you outside of your normal routine.

When I wear a vintage-style pilot watch, I feel like I’m about to escort bombers over France in 1944 in my P-51 Mustang. A diver gives me the sense of exploring 18th-century shipwrecks in the Caribbean. You get the idea.

I love to wear the Grand Seiko SBGH343 when I take my wife out for a drink or dinner. Paired with a jacket and tie and a martini glass in my hand, I feel like the smoothest guy in the room. It is, honestly, that classy.

Price & Availability

So, now that you know quite a bit about this stunning timepiece, perhaps you’d like to pick one up. Naturally, you can find it at any Grand Seiko authorized dealer or order it from their website.

Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer for several brands, including Grand Seiko, and you can order online or stop by our Naples, FL boutique to get a look at the SBGH343 up close and personal and try it on. The watch retails for $7,300 new. If you are looking for a pre-owned model, you can expect to pay between $5,500 and $6,500. Compared to the dress watches of many other luxury brands, the SBGH343 is a bargain, either new or used.

Conclusion

When it comes to well-crafted, reliable, and beautiful timepieces, Grand Seiko ranks up there with any brand on the market. The SBGH343 represents a tribute to the first GS automatic watch. If you are looking for a comfortable, stylish, and accurate dress watch in a bit smaller-than-typical size, you owe it to yourself to take a look at this stunning Grand Seiko.

What is a Tourbillon in a Watch?

Posted on August 30, 2024 by Paul Rothbart

If you are anything like me, you find watches fascinating. They are truly marvels of mechanical engineering. Despite a number of innovations, they have used the same basic way of functioning since their birth in the 16th Century.

A wristwatch does more than just tell the time. I love the various complications available on modern timepieces. From something as simple as the date to the complexities of moon phases and world calendars, these additional functions only add to that wonderful feeling of wearing your favorite watch.

Perhaps the most complex and mesmerizing of complications is the tourbillon. A tourbillon is an amazing mechanism that rotates the balance wheel and escapement while they function. A tourbillon is a visible part of the workings of a watch, generally in an open-heart dial. Tourbillon is the French word for “whirlwind”. If you’ve ever seen one, you know that is a fitting moniker.

The story of the tourbillon, how it works, and why it was created is as engaging as the complication itself.

How Tourbillons Operate

The purpose of the tourbillon is to counter the effects of gravity on the balance wheel and escapement. These effects can impact the accuracy of a mechanical watch. To understand how a tourbillon functions, we need to look at how a mechanical watch keeps time.

The power source of a mechanical watch is the mainspring. When you wind it, potential energy is stored. As the mainspring unwinds, kinetic energy turns the gear system that moves the hands.

The escapement is what keeps the mainspring from unwinding all at once. It consists of the balance wheel, hairspring, and pallet fork. The hairspring causes the balance wheel to oscillate back and forth, and the pallet fork stops the action on each oscillation to turn it back the other way.

The escapement keeps the balance wheel oscillating at a specific frequency. It turns the gears that drive the second hand to one revolution around the dial per minute, the minute hand one rev per hour, and the hour hand one rev per 12 hours.

In a well-made timepiece, the escapement functions with a high level of precision. But, remember our old friend gravity from science class? The force that pulls everything down creates drag on the escapement. This can alter the oscillation frequency and reduce the level of precision.

That, boys and girls, brings us to the tourbillon. This brilliant mechanism is essentially a cage around the escapement that rotates it, generally at a rate of 1 RPM. With the escapement constantly changing position, the effects of gravity are nullified, and precise timekeeping is preserved.

History of Tourbillons in Watches

The tourbillon was the brainchild of a brilliant watchmaker, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Never one to back down from a challenge (he also invented the rotor that winds automatic watches and several other innovations), Breguet invented the ingenious tourbillon to solve the gravity problem. The company that bears his name makes some of the finest tourbillon watches on the planet.

As time went on and the science and art of watchmaking developed, more sophisticated tourbillons that rotated on multiple axes were created. When wristwatches became popular, horologists built tourbillons for them. Today, a tourbillon is a symbol of prestige and good taste.

Different Types of Tourbillons

When people started wearing wristwatches and pocket watches that went out of vogue, the problem of gravity became more challenging. Unlike pocket watches that remain in a vertical position most of the time, a wristwatch sits in many different positions as the wearer moves their arm throughout the day.

To combat the issue, horologists developed several different types of tourbillons. In addition to fighting gravity more effectively, they are incredibly fun to watch. I have a friend with a beautiful two-axis tourbillon. A group of us were having dinner one night, and several of our party could not stop looking at his watch. They are that cool.

Single Axis Tourbillon

The original tourbillon and the most common type is the single axis. It rotates around one axis, perpendicular to the dial. Many watch enthusiasts love their simplicity and elegance. They blend nicely into the dial while they do their job.

Multi Axis Tourbillon

Because wristwatches are constantly changing position, tourbillons needed to evolve to counter gravity in more than one axis. Multi-axis tourbillons, as the name implies, turn around two or even three axes.

This improves accuracy when the watch is in multiple positions and multi-axis tourbillons are spectacular pieces of engineering that are incredible to see in action.

Double & Quadruple Tourbillon

Just when you thought tourbillons couldn’t get any more sophisticated, along come double and quadruple variants. The level of engineering and craftsmanship in these watches is incredible. They feature either two or four cages that rotate at different speeds.

Both precision and the wow factor are boosted exponentially. Sporting a double or quadruple tourbillon will make you the envy of your horological friends.

Flying Tourbillon

The flying tourbillon is a brilliant innovation that steps things up yet another level. A standard tourbillon is anchored by a top and bottom bridge. The flying variation lacks a top bridge. Rather than the cage rotating on its central axis, the entire mechanism moves in a small circle.

This gives the visual effect of the tourbillon floating around the dial. A flying tourbillon effectively improves precision and is one of the most stunning horological displays you will ever see.

Gyro Tourbillon

If you are familiar with the use of a gyroscope in aviation and nautical travel, you will understand the value of the gyro tourbillon. An extension of the multi-axis type, the gyro tourbillon turns on an axis perpendicular to the dial and another parallel to it.

Similar to how a gyroscope functions, this type of tourbillon minimizes the effects of gravity. It is also one of the most fascinating displays you will ever see on a high-end timepiece. You may not even notice the hands.

Top 5 Tourbillon Watches on Exquisite Timepieces

If you are in the market for a tourbillon watch, check out Exquisite Timepieces. We have a wide selection of these stunning watches. Here are the top 5 most popular.

Omega De Ville Tourbillon Chronometer Numbered Edition 43mm (ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)

It’s not surprising that Omega has a watch on this list. The world-class horologists at the brand’s Atelier Tourbillon designed this stunning manual-winding central tourbillon that is master chronometer certified. The 43 mm case is a blend of 18K Sedna gold and 18K Canopus gold with an 18K Sedna gold bezel.

The black sun-brushed dial is nicely contrasted by gold hands and indices, and a black leather strap with an 18K Sedna gold buckle fits in with the colorway. The tourbillon is the feature that draws your eye with its titanium bridge and 18K Sedna gold polished second hand attached.

A sapphire crystal and exhibition case back are scratch-resistant and provide a view of the gorgeous Master Co-Axial Chronometer Calibre 2640 movement. The movement features a power reserve indicator that displays what you have left on the generous three-day reserve.

Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante Minute Retrograde (ref. 66260-3433-55B)

Blancpain is a world-renowned brand that makes some of the finest timepieces you will ever see. The Villeret Tourbillon Volant features a beautiful flying tourbillon that truly appears to fly about on its rounds.

The case is available in either 43m platinum or 43mm 18K red gold. The dial is white grand feu enamel with silver hands. This is the first Blancpain watch to feature a retrograde minute hand and an hour window. The design is unique, elegant, and uncluttered.

The sapphire crystal and exhibition case back offers a full view of the dial and movement while protecting them. You can choose between a black or brown alligator strap lined with alzavel or an 18K gold Milanese mesh bracelet.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton (ref. 6814-1200)

H. Moser & Cie. have a long and storied history of creating fine timepieces and have hit new heights with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton. The 40mm stainless steel silver cushion-shaped case houses the Caliber HMC 814 movement. The skeleton dial and exhibition case back allows you to view the movement and stylish tourbillon from either side.

The hands and indices are 5N gold-plated, and the hands have Globolight inserts. The stainless steel integrated bracelet adds to the unique design. The automatic movement has a 72-hour power reserve, and the water resistance is 120 meters; much more than the average tourbillon watch.

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge (ref. 5345PT/1S/7XU)

No list of tourbillon watches would be complete without a model from Breguet, whose founder invented the complication. The Classique features a 46mm case in either platinum or 18K red gold. The skeleton dial shows off the movement including not one, but two tourbillons.

A sapphire chapter ring with blue Roman numerals and blue hands adds to the unique and stylish design of the dial. An exhibition case back gives a view of the manual Caliber 588N movement, and the watch is protected front and back by a sapphire crystal.

You can choose a black leather or blue rubber strap with a triple folding clasp to secure your timepiece to your wrist. The 50-hour power reserve lets you go a couple of days between windings.

Jacob & Co. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Diamonds White Gold on Strap (ref. BT543.30.BD.BD.B)

If you like a flashy watch with plenty of bling, this offering from Jacob & Co. is right up your alley. The large 47mm 18K white gold case is invisibly set with 205 Baguette-cut white diamonds. The dial is white gold as well and set with 146 diamonds, and even the crown features 14 stunning gems. Leaf-shaped blue hands contrast the dial nicely. This watch will definitely be noticed.

The manual movement has a whopping 100-hour power reserve, and the white alligator leather strap secures with an 18K white gold deployant clasp. The main attraction, however, is the incredible flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. A bit too ostentatious for my taste, if you have the cash to buy one, this Jacob & Co. model could be the ultimate addition to your collection

Conclusion

Complications add functions to watches and make them more than just timekeepers. Perhaps no other complication stands out as much as a tourbillon. Designed to improve accuracy, these incredible mechanisms come in several types and add a new level of sophistication, artistry, and coolness to any watch.