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Grand Seiko SBGH343 Review

Posted on September 18, 2024October 25, 2024 by Paul Rothbart

Quick. Name a country that produces quality watches. Most of you probably said, “Switzerland”, and that is a correct answer. However, Japan produces some of the world’s finest timepieces, and at the top of that list is Grand Seiko.

Quality, elegance, accuracy, and style are words that apply to the watches in the catalog of this prestigious brand. A recent release to Grand Seiko’s heritage collection is the SBGH343 Sakura-Wakaba.

A nod to the legendary 62GS, the brand’s first automatic watch, the SBGH343 comes with a 38mm case, reversing the trend toward larger watches. Nature is a vital part of Japanese culture, and this timepiece pays tribute to the cherry blossoms or sakura trees that the people of Japan revere.

I really like this watch. I cannot express that enough. Let’s take an in-depth look at this stunning recent release by the brilliant watchmakers at Grand Seiko.

History

In 1967, Grand Seiko released its first automatic watch, the 62GS. It was an instant hit, with its textured dial, bezel-less case, and Grand Seiko’s signature brushing and Zaratsu polishing, creating a mirrored finish.

The brand’s heritage collection pays tribute to this iconic timepiece. 2019 saw the release of an updated 62GS with a 40mm titanium case. Jump ahead to 2023, and Grand Seiko releases a new model that keeps the titanium but goes back to a smaller 38mm case.

The SBGH343 is a stunning watch that combines modern and classic aesthetics. Add in Grand Seiko’s reliability and durability, and you’ve got one hell of a dress watch.

Case

As mentioned, the titanium case reverses the recent trend of larger watches and comes in at a more classic 38mm. With a 44.7mm lug-to-lug width, it’s a fairly small watch. I generally wear watches in the 41-42mm range on my average 7.25-inch wrist, so I was a little skeptical about how the SBGH343 would suit me.

I’m happy to report that it looks just fine. If you have an average or smaller wrist, odds are this watch will look great on you. Bigger people with wrists approaching 8 inches will likely find it on the small side.

The 12.9mm case thickness is a little on the chunky side for a dress watch. You can slide it under the sleeve, but not as easily as with a thinner watch. I button my cuffs with the outer button to maximize the width, and I manage.

The titanium case is finished with brushed and polished surfaces. This is something Grand Seiko does extremely well, and combined with the sharp lines, the case complements the dial and bracelet beautifully. The use of the titanium does add a bit of ruggedness, allowing you to wear the watch with more casual attire.

The crown features the Grand Seiko logo and is actually a screw-down. This was a nice surprise. Coupled with the 100-meter water resistance, you could swim wearing this watch. However, it is a dress watch, and it’s not likely you’ll be invited to a formal function by a school of fish, so keep it on dry land.

The box-shaped sapphire crystal adds to the overall thickness, but I think that’s a good tradeoff, as it gives the watch a nice vintage look that adds an extra touch of class. The case back is a screw-on sapphire crystal. Both front and back are treated on the inside with an anti-reflective coating that makes sure you get a good look at the dial and movement.

Dial

In Grand Seiko tradition, the dial of the SBGH343 is truly a work of art that pays homage to nature. I tend to like more conservative dial colors. The majority of watches in my collection are black, white, or blue. I also like a green dial, and most brands offer models in this color. But nobody does a green like the one on the SBGH343.

In Japan, festivals that celebrate the blooming of the sakura tree each spring take place throughout the nation from south to north as the cherry blossoms appear. The incredible dial on this stunning timepiece is a light green color that mimics the sakura leaves in the early stages of growth.

There is so much more to the dial than just the unusual shade of green. The texture adds depth and resembles the subtle brush strokes of watercolors on linen. Grand Seiko is known for their beautifully-textured dials, and this is one of their finest. You really need to see it in person to appreciate it, so I recommend popping into your local authorized dealer if you can.

Complimenting the dial are the silver baton indices and hands. They feature both polished and brushed surfaces, which gives them depth. The Grand Seiko logo is applied at 12 o’clock with the name printed underneath.

Grand Seiko’s attention to detail is on display in the 3 o’clock date window. At first glance, it may look like a typical presentation of this common complication, but look closer. The window is framed in the same polished silver as the hands and has a black numeral.

Beneath the number, the background has the same linen texture as the dial. Subtle? Certainly, but these seemingly small touches are among the things that make Grand Seiko one of the best watchmakers in the business.

Finishing the dial is the minute track along the outer edge. Basic black ticks are functional and don’t interfere with the aesthetic of the dial. You may find yourself checking the time more frequently than normal just to get a look at the incredible dial. I know I did.

Movement

The SBGH343 has more than just good looks going for it. The timepiece is powered by Grand Seiko’s in-house Hi-Beat Caliber 9S85 movement. A frequency of 36,000 vph, 37 jewels, and magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m give this watch a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day. The automatic movement has a generous power reserve of 55 hours.

In addition to providing a high degree of accuracy, the movement is as beautiful as the rest of the watch. Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can view the brushed and polished stripe pattern and see the Grand Seiko name engraved in gold on the rotor.

The caliber, number of jewels, position, and temperature adjustment information are also engraved in gold on the movement. Your fellow watch nerds will love getting a look at the back of your SBGH343, and even your horologically-challenged friends may be impressed.

For the most part, you can let the movement do its job while you enjoy the timepiece. If it’s not your everyday wearer, you may have to set and wind it before putting it on. But you get to look at that dial while you do it.

Straps

The SBGH343 comes with a three-link high-intensity titanium bracelet. The surfaces are mostly polished with brushing on the edges of the center links. The bracelet matches up nicely with the case and makes for an elegant yet somewhat sporty look.

The titanium makes for a lightweight feel, and the bracelet wraps nicely around the wrist, and I found it to be very comfortable to wear. Typical of a Grand Seiko titanium bracelet, it is held together with push pins, which makes it a bit tricky to size.

There is no micro-adjustment, however, there are half links, so you should be able to get close to a nice fit on your wrist. The three-fold clasp has a push-button release and feels as good on the wrist as the rest of the bracelet.

The 20mm lug width and drilled lugs make it easy to change to a different bracelet or strap if you so desire. Personally, I would stick with the stock bracelet. It is designed to pair with the case and dial to give you a watch that is a work of art.

On-Wrist Experience

So, what’s it like to wear the Grand Seiko SBGH343? To quote Larry David, it feels “pretty, pretty, pretty good”. If you’ve never worn a titanium watch, the first thing you will notice is how significantly lighter it is than a stainless steel or other metal watch. The bracelet wraps comfortably around the wrist, and the clasp is secure and does not feel restrictive.

The 38mm case and 44.7mm lug-to-lug add to the comfort level. We all know the feeling of having the crown poke into the back of the hand with a larger case. You won’t face this problem with the SBGH343. The dial is easy to read at a glance, and the high degree of accuracy will help keep you on time for your most important appointments.

The smaller case size makes it an excellent choice to wear with a suit or sport coat. It has a nice dressy look. This case is on the thick side. Although it will slide under most shirt cuffs, some find it a bit too chunky for formal attire. If you have an 8-inch or thicker wrist, you will likely find it just too small.

The green dial can go with the most conservative jacket colors. Certainly, it works well with black or any shade of gray. I also like it with navy blue. If you are a bit more of an adventurous dresser and like lighter blues, burgundies, or pink, you will likely find it clashes.

For me, the appearance of a watch on the wrist is only half the story. A timepiece can give you a sense of confidence and take you outside of your normal routine.

When I wear a vintage-style pilot watch, I feel like I’m about to escort bombers over France in 1944 in my P-51 Mustang. A diver gives me the sense of exploring 18th-century shipwrecks in the Caribbean. You get the idea.

I love to wear the Grand Seiko SBGH343 when I take my wife out for a drink or dinner. Paired with a jacket and tie and a martini glass in my hand, I feel like the smoothest guy in the room. It is, honestly, that classy.

Price & Availability

So, now that you know quite a bit about this stunning timepiece, perhaps you’d like to pick one up. Naturally, you can find it at any Grand Seiko authorized dealer or order it from their website.

Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer for several brands, including Grand Seiko, and you can order online or stop by our Naples, FL boutique to get a look at the SBGH343 up close and personal and try it on. The watch retails for $7,300 new. If you are looking for a pre-owned model, you can expect to pay between $5,500 and $6,500. Compared to the dress watches of many other luxury brands, the SBGH343 is a bargain, either new or used.

Conclusion

When it comes to well-crafted, reliable, and beautiful timepieces, Grand Seiko ranks up there with any brand on the market. The SBGH343 represents a tribute to the first GS automatic watch. If you are looking for a comfortable, stylish, and accurate dress watch in a bit smaller-than-typical size, you owe it to yourself to take a look at this stunning Grand Seiko.

What is a Tourbillon in a Watch?

Posted on August 30, 2024 by Paul Rothbart

If you are anything like me, you find watches fascinating. They are truly marvels of mechanical engineering. Despite a number of innovations, they have used the same basic way of functioning since their birth in the 16th Century.

A wristwatch does more than just tell the time. I love the various complications available on modern timepieces. From something as simple as the date to the complexities of moon phases and world calendars, these additional functions only add to that wonderful feeling of wearing your favorite watch.

Perhaps the most complex and mesmerizing of complications is the tourbillon. A tourbillon is an amazing mechanism that rotates the balance wheel and escapement while they function. A tourbillon is a visible part of the workings of a watch, generally in an open-heart dial. Tourbillon is the French word for “whirlwind”. If you’ve ever seen one, you know that is a fitting moniker.

The story of the tourbillon, how it works, and why it was created is as engaging as the complication itself.

How Tourbillons Operate

The purpose of the tourbillon is to counter the effects of gravity on the balance wheel and escapement. These effects can impact the accuracy of a mechanical watch. To understand how a tourbillon functions, we need to look at how a mechanical watch keeps time.

The power source of a mechanical watch is the mainspring. When you wind it, potential energy is stored. As the mainspring unwinds, kinetic energy turns the gear system that moves the hands.

The escapement is what keeps the mainspring from unwinding all at once. It consists of the balance wheel, hairspring, and pallet fork. The hairspring causes the balance wheel to oscillate back and forth, and the pallet fork stops the action on each oscillation to turn it back the other way.

The escapement keeps the balance wheel oscillating at a specific frequency. It turns the gears that drive the second hand to one revolution around the dial per minute, the minute hand one rev per hour, and the hour hand one rev per 12 hours.

In a well-made timepiece, the escapement functions with a high level of precision. But, remember our old friend gravity from science class? The force that pulls everything down creates drag on the escapement. This can alter the oscillation frequency and reduce the level of precision.

That, boys and girls, brings us to the tourbillon. This brilliant mechanism is essentially a cage around the escapement that rotates it, generally at a rate of 1 RPM. With the escapement constantly changing position, the effects of gravity are nullified, and precise timekeeping is preserved.

History of Tourbillons in Watches

The tourbillon was the brainchild of a brilliant watchmaker, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Never one to back down from a challenge (he also invented the rotor that winds automatic watches and several other innovations), Breguet invented the ingenious tourbillon to solve the gravity problem. The company that bears his name makes some of the finest tourbillon watches on the planet.

As time went on and the science and art of watchmaking developed, more sophisticated tourbillons that rotated on multiple axes were created. When wristwatches became popular, horologists built tourbillons for them. Today, a tourbillon is a symbol of prestige and good taste.

Different Types of Tourbillons

When people started wearing wristwatches and pocket watches that went out of vogue, the problem of gravity became more challenging. Unlike pocket watches that remain in a vertical position most of the time, a wristwatch sits in many different positions as the wearer moves their arm throughout the day.

To combat the issue, horologists developed several different types of tourbillons. In addition to fighting gravity more effectively, they are incredibly fun to watch. I have a friend with a beautiful two-axis tourbillon. A group of us were having dinner one night, and several of our party could not stop looking at his watch. They are that cool.

Single Axis Tourbillon

The original tourbillon and the most common type is the single axis. It rotates around one axis, perpendicular to the dial. Many watch enthusiasts love their simplicity and elegance. They blend nicely into the dial while they do their job.

Multi Axis Tourbillon

Because wristwatches are constantly changing position, tourbillons needed to evolve to counter gravity in more than one axis. Multi-axis tourbillons, as the name implies, turn around two or even three axes.

This improves accuracy when the watch is in multiple positions and multi-axis tourbillons are spectacular pieces of engineering that are incredible to see in action.

Double & Quadruple Tourbillon

Just when you thought tourbillons couldn’t get any more sophisticated, along come double and quadruple variants. The level of engineering and craftsmanship in these watches is incredible. They feature either two or four cages that rotate at different speeds.

Both precision and the wow factor are boosted exponentially. Sporting a double or quadruple tourbillon will make you the envy of your horological friends.

Flying Tourbillon

The flying tourbillon is a brilliant innovation that steps things up yet another level. A standard tourbillon is anchored by a top and bottom bridge. The flying variation lacks a top bridge. Rather than the cage rotating on its central axis, the entire mechanism moves in a small circle.

This gives the visual effect of the tourbillon floating around the dial. A flying tourbillon effectively improves precision and is one of the most stunning horological displays you will ever see.

Gyro Tourbillon

If you are familiar with the use of a gyroscope in aviation and nautical travel, you will understand the value of the gyro tourbillon. An extension of the multi-axis type, the gyro tourbillon turns on an axis perpendicular to the dial and another parallel to it.

Similar to how a gyroscope functions, this type of tourbillon minimizes the effects of gravity. It is also one of the most fascinating displays you will ever see on a high-end timepiece. You may not even notice the hands.

Top 5 Tourbillon Watches on Exquisite Timepieces

If you are in the market for a tourbillon watch, check out Exquisite Timepieces. We have a wide selection of these stunning watches. Here are the top 5 most popular.

Omega De Ville Tourbillon Chronometer Numbered Edition 43mm (ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)

It’s not surprising that Omega has a watch on this list. The world-class horologists at the brand’s Atelier Tourbillon designed this stunning manual-winding central tourbillon that is master chronometer certified. The 43 mm case is a blend of 18K Sedna gold and 18K Canopus gold with an 18K Sedna gold bezel.

The black sun-brushed dial is nicely contrasted by gold hands and indices, and a black leather strap with an 18K Sedna gold buckle fits in with the colorway. The tourbillon is the feature that draws your eye with its titanium bridge and 18K Sedna gold polished second hand attached.

A sapphire crystal and exhibition case back are scratch-resistant and provide a view of the gorgeous Master Co-Axial Chronometer Calibre 2640 movement. The movement features a power reserve indicator that displays what you have left on the generous three-day reserve.

Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante Minute Retrograde (ref. 66260-3433-55B)

Blancpain is a world-renowned brand that makes some of the finest timepieces you will ever see. The Villeret Tourbillon Volant features a beautiful flying tourbillon that truly appears to fly about on its rounds.

The case is available in either 43m platinum or 43mm 18K red gold. The dial is white grand feu enamel with silver hands. This is the first Blancpain watch to feature a retrograde minute hand and an hour window. The design is unique, elegant, and uncluttered.

The sapphire crystal and exhibition case back offers a full view of the dial and movement while protecting them. You can choose between a black or brown alligator strap lined with alzavel or an 18K gold Milanese mesh bracelet.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton (ref. 6814-1200)

H. Moser & Cie. have a long and storied history of creating fine timepieces and have hit new heights with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton. The 40mm stainless steel silver cushion-shaped case houses the Caliber HMC 814 movement. The skeleton dial and exhibition case back allows you to view the movement and stylish tourbillon from either side.

The hands and indices are 5N gold-plated, and the hands have Globolight inserts. The stainless steel integrated bracelet adds to the unique design. The automatic movement has a 72-hour power reserve, and the water resistance is 120 meters; much more than the average tourbillon watch.

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge (ref. 5345PT/1S/7XU)

No list of tourbillon watches would be complete without a model from Breguet, whose founder invented the complication. The Classique features a 46mm case in either platinum or 18K red gold. The skeleton dial shows off the movement including not one, but two tourbillons.

A sapphire chapter ring with blue Roman numerals and blue hands adds to the unique and stylish design of the dial. An exhibition case back gives a view of the manual Caliber 588N movement, and the watch is protected front and back by a sapphire crystal.

You can choose a black leather or blue rubber strap with a triple folding clasp to secure your timepiece to your wrist. The 50-hour power reserve lets you go a couple of days between windings.

Jacob & Co. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Diamonds White Gold on Strap (ref. BT543.30.BD.BD.B)

If you like a flashy watch with plenty of bling, this offering from Jacob & Co. is right up your alley. The large 47mm 18K white gold case is invisibly set with 205 Baguette-cut white diamonds. The dial is white gold as well and set with 146 diamonds, and even the crown features 14 stunning gems. Leaf-shaped blue hands contrast the dial nicely. This watch will definitely be noticed.

The manual movement has a whopping 100-hour power reserve, and the white alligator leather strap secures with an 18K white gold deployant clasp. The main attraction, however, is the incredible flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. A bit too ostentatious for my taste, if you have the cash to buy one, this Jacob & Co. model could be the ultimate addition to your collection

Conclusion

Complications add functions to watches and make them more than just timekeepers. Perhaps no other complication stands out as much as a tourbillon. Designed to improve accuracy, these incredible mechanisms come in several types and add a new level of sophistication, artistry, and coolness to any watch.

Seiko SSK001 Review

Posted on June 6, 2024June 15, 2024 by Paul Rothbart

In the world of watches, most true aficionados have a diver or two in their collections. Although they have been replaced by dive computers and most dive watches never see any water other than in a thunderstorm, their style, reliability, and rugged history make them appealing.

I have never been more than one meter below the surface, yet, I own four divers. They are among the favorites in my collection. I feel like an adventurer on dry land, even sitting at my desk when I wear a dive watch. That includes the Seiko SSK001.

About The Seiko SSK001

The Seiko SSK001 is part of the Seiko Sport 5 GMT collection. It’s an automatic diver with a GMT complication that looks fantastic with casual, smart casual, or business attire. Released in the spring of 2022, The Seiko Sport 5 SSK01 is a durable, reliable, and beautiful GMT timepiece. Best of all, you can get it for less than $500. That’s not a typo.. Let’s take a closer look.

History of Seiko GMT Watches

Seiko has a long and proud history that began in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori began selling and repairing clocks and watches at a shop in Tokyo. Under the brand name Seikosha, Hattori began making clocks in 1892 and pocket watches in 1895.

Hattori created his first wristwatch, the Laurel in 1913 and in 1924, changed his company’s name to Seiko, thus beginning a tradition that continues to this day. The Seiko brand kept improving and releasing new and innovative watches. By the 1960s, the brand was producing chronographs and dive watches.

In 1967, Seiko announced its arrival in the world of elite horology, taking second and third place in the final Neufchatel Observatory and Geneva Observatory Competition. Seiko made quite a splash in 2014 when the SBGJ005 Hi-beat 3600 GMT won the Petite Aiguille Award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. The long journey led to the 2022 release of the incredible and affordable Seiko SSK001. Timepieces of this caliber don’t appear overnight, folks.

Seiko SSK001: In-Depth Review

There’s a lot to like about the Seiko SSK001, especially if you are a traveler or like to track multiple time zones and have a tight budget.

Case

The SSK001 features a 42.5 mm stainless steel brushed case with polished sides to make it stand out. This size suits many wrist sizes. Mine is an average 7.25 inches, and the SSK001 is right in the wheelhouse of my preferred case size. With a lug-to-lug width of 46 mm and a thickness of 13.6 mm, this watch wears well on smaller wrists.

If you’re a watch nerd like me, you’ll appreciate the exhibition case back, which allows you to get a good look at the movement. The crown is not screw-in, making this timepiece more of a desk diver. It sits at four o’clock rather than at three. Some people have trouble with the asymmetry, but I feel it adds character and unique charm to this timepiece.

Bezel

As a proper GMT watch, the SSK001 has a 24-hour bezel. The black and gray two-tone insert indicates day and night and it turns unidirectionally with 120 clicks for a smooth motion that feels nice. Arabic numerals are set at the even numbers with dots at the odd and a large inverted triangle at 12 o’clock.

Materials

Seiko uses high-quality materials in the SSK001. The case and bracelet are made from surgical-grade stainless steel. The bezel is aluminum and polished to a nice finish. The same quality stainless steel is used for the hands.

Dial

The dial is a black sunray burst beauty. I prefer neutral colors. They go with anything and provide a classic and timeless style. The sunray pattern gives the dial a bit of pop, especially in bright light. The Seiko name and logo are applied at the 12 o’clock position with the date function at three.

Pill-shaped indices sit at six and nine o’clock, with an inverted triangle at 12. Dots are set at the five-minute markers in between. All the indices are applied and filled with Lumibrite, such as the minute, hour, and GMT hands. You won’t have any trouble seeing the time at night.

The minute hand is a broad arrow, and the hour hand has the classic sword shape. The second hand is a needle, and the GMT hand is a large, red arrow that stands out nicely. The dial is covered by a Hardlex crystal. Would I have liked to see sapphire here? Absolutely. But we all know Seiko loves to cut corners, and the crystal is always one of its first priorities.

At three o’clock above the date complication sits a Cyclops magnifier. This is a feature that tends to divide watch enthusiasts. Some love it, some could live without it. Personally, I like the way it makes the date much easier for my aging eyes to read. A bonus is that it’s pill-shaped and adds a nice symmetry to the indices at six and nine.

Movement

The Caliber 4R34 automatic movement is reliable and durable. It has 24 jewels and operates at 21,6000 bph. For a watch at this price point, the accuracy of +45/-35 seconds per day is respectable, and the movement has a 41-hour power reserve. This is more than enough if you wear it every day. I keep mine on a watch winder, so it’s always ready to go.

The Seiko SSK001 is a caller-type GMT, meaning you can’t set the hour hand separately. Pulling the crown out to the first position allows setting the GMT hand by turning clockwise. Counterclockwise changes the date. The second position sets the time by turning in either direction.

Strap

Holding the watch on your wrist is a stainless steel, five-link jubilee bracelet. The polished surfaces shine nicely. Seiko has improved on its earlier jubilee bracelet which tended to be jangly. This version feels more solid and wraps neatly around the wrist. The bracelet tapers to a trifold, two-button clasp that feels secure. Solid end links add to the look and feel.

Should You Buy A Seiko SSK001?

Is the Seiko SSK001 right for you? If you travel or do business with people in other time zones, you could benefit from a GMT. People with a sense of adventure will enjoy the dive-watch nature of this timepiece.

The neutral colorway is perfect if your style is classic and timeless. It’s a versatile watch that can be your GADA. If you are looking for a stylish, well-made, and reliable watch but don’t have the budget for a four, five, or (gasp) six-figure price tag, this may be the ideal choice. You get plenty of bang for your buck.

Seiko SSK001 Pricing & Availability

If you are ready to pull the trigger, the Seiko SSK001 is readily available at a Seiko store or from their website. You can also buy one at Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. You can always stop into our boutique in Naples, Florida, to try one on or purchase it online. There is also the option of purchasing one of these beauties new or preowned on the secondary market.

The MSRP of the Seiko SSK001 is just $475. If you shop around or have a good relationship with an AD, you might get one for a bit less and can also save by going preowned. Depending on the condition, you can pick a used one up for between $250 and $350.

Seiko SSK001 Alternatives

If you like the Seiko SSK001 but would prefer different colors or strap options, there are several other models. They are all powered by the same movement and offer the reliability of the Seiko 5 Sports GMT watches with varying features and styles. With the exception of the Yuto Horigome model, they are priced the same as the SSK001.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK003

The Seiko GMT SSK003 is identical to the SSK001 except for its color. It features a stunning blue sunray dial and a two-tone black and blue bezel. It is a bit bolder than its black-dialed cousin but retains a classy and subtle look. It’s a nice addition to any collection.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK005

Maybe you want a watch that really pops. The Seiko GMT SSK005 has a bright orange dial that will stand out. Along with its orange minute and hour hands and gray GMT hand, this timepiece makes a statement. The black and gray two-tone bezel offers a nice contrast to the dial. You get the same movement, bracelet, and reliability in a watch that suits a flashier sense of style.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK021 Grey Two-Tone

For the same subtle, timeless style with just a touch of bling, check out the Seiko GMT SSK021. The classy gray dial and matching minute and hour hands blend well with the two-tone black and gray bezel. The outer edge of the bezel is a shiny gold color that matches the GMT hand. It adds a touch of boldness without being in your face. The movement and bracelet are the same as the SSK001.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK019 Black

Perhaps you love the bracelet and elegance of the SSK001 but want just a little bit of color. The Seiko GMT SSK019 may be the perfect watch for you. It has the same black sunray dial, black and gray bezel, and red GMT hand but with an added twist. The outer edge of the dial is two-tone red and blue. It makes the dial stand out but is not ostentatious.

Seiko 5 Sports SSK027 Yuto Horigome Limited Edition

For exclusivity and a look that stands out in a completely different way, you may love the Seiko SSK027 Yuto Horigome Limited Edition. A tribute to the first-ever gold medalist in Olympic skateboarding, Seiko only made 2700 of these pieces, so you may have to track down a pre-owned watch. The brand-new models have an MSRP of $525, just slightly higher than the others in the collection.

The stainless steel case and bracelet are the same style and quality but coated in black. The black dial is surrounded by a black and purple two-tone bezel. It’s a unique look for the Seiko 5 GMT collection, and you will have a conversation starter that you won’t see on the wrists of many other people.

Conclusion

Diver GMT watches are among the most popular with watch enthusiasts. They do tend to be pricey and outside the range of many people’s budgets. Seiko has come to the rescue with the Seiko SSK001 and the other models in the Sports 5 GMT collection.

A stylish, reliable, and well-made GMT diver can be yours for less than half a grand. Imagine that. One final bit of advice. The Seiko Sports 5 GMT watches have a 100-meter water resistance. Go ahead and swim in them, but if you’re snorkeling around a reef or have a diving adventure, leave your Seiko on dry land.

The ULTIMATE Seiko 5 GMT Review (Read BEFORE Buying!)

Posted on May 10, 2024May 30, 2024 by Paul Rothbart

Watches with complications tend to be among the most popular with collectors. Moon phases, power reserve indicators, days, dates, and tourbillons are useful as well as fun and stylish. Even though I have a calendar app on my smartphone, I need to see the date displayed on my watch.

Complications require more intricate movements and dials and are, thus, more expensive than standard three-hand models. For newbies to the world of watch collecting or veterans on a budget, it can be hard to find an affordable timepiece with the desired complication. This is especially true of GMT watches.

This is a complication that is extremely helpful to travelers or those who do business with people in other timezones. Sure, you can do the math, but it’s so much easier and way cooler to track more than one timezone on your watch.

GMT watches tend to be very expensive. A simple Google search will bear that out. However, the folks at Seiko have a collection of GMT watches that retail for less than $500. You read that right. You can own a beautiful Seiko 5 GMT at a price that won’t blow up your budget. Let’s take a closer look at these marvelous bargain-priced timepieces.

About The Seiko 5 GMT

The summer of 2022 saw the release of the Seiko 5 GMT collection. This event was not only huge for Seiko and its many fans; it knocked the world of horology on its butt. All of those budget-conscious watch lovers who couldn’t afford a GMT now finally had one to add to their collections.

Part of the Seiko 5 Sports Line, the SSK GMTs share many design features with their older cousins of the SKX Series. Available in a number of dial and bezel colors on bracelets or straps, these watches are clearly Seikos but have a unique charm of their own.

History of Seiko 5 Watches

The Seiko 5 collection has a long history. The first of the series, the Seiko 5 Sportsmatic 5, was released in 1963 and was a groundbreaking timepiece for the brand. The Sportmatic was the first automatic day-date for not only Seiko but also any Japanese brand.

The “5” in the model name represented five key attributes: the automatic movement, the day-date complication, 100-meter water resistance, the recessed crown at four o’clock, and the durable case and bracelet. The number was also used to name the Caliber 5 automatic movement. The watch was such a hit in the world of horology that Seiko earned a Good Design Award in early 1964.

Over the past six decades, the collection has evolved to include many types of sports watches. The SKX series of dive watches was released in 1996 and proved enormously popular. Unfortunately, Seiko discontinued it in 2019. The Prospex is still available and is an excellent diver, but that’s another story for another day.

The Seiko 5 collection continued to evolve to include casual and field watches, which are still available. This leads us to the glorious summer of 2022. Seiko entered the world of GMT watches with an affordable timepiece of this type that checks many of the boxes for GMT fans. In my opinion, it is the best in this class.

Seiko 5 GMT: In-Depth Review

The Seiko 5 GMT watches live up to the brand’s tradition of quality and aesthetics. With the number of colorways, case sizes, and strap options available in the line, there is something to please nearly every GMT lover out there.

Case Sizes & Materials

With the exception of the SSK027 Yuri Horigome Limited Edition and the SSK025, which have black-coated steel cases, all of the Seiko 5 GMTs feature stainless steel cases. These are durable and beautiful, with brushed surfaces on the top of the case and polished on the sides.

There are two case sizes available: 39.4mm and 42.5mm. This puts them dead center in the range that looks good on most wrist sizes. My average-sized 7.25” wrist is nicely covered by cases in this range. For people with smaller wrists, the 46mm lug-to-lug measurement makes the larger case wear more like a 40mm. Either size should suit you well.

The thickness of the case is 13.6mm, which is not bad for a GMT movement. The crystal is flat and gives the illusion of a slimmer watch. It’s a fairly hefty watch at 148g, but despite its solid feel, it doesn’t look chunky on the wrist.

Bezels

The bezels on the Seiko 5 GMT watches are of the 24-hour variety, as you would expect. The top of the bezel at the 24 marker has the large, upside triangle typical of GMT bezels with numerals at the even numbers and round indices at the odd. The bezel is two-colored to indicate day and night. The colors coordinate with the hue of the dial.

The bezel is unidirectional, making it easy to set. When you move it, you will notice a difference from the typical bezel. Rather than a 48-point click, the Seiko 5 GMT bezels turn with a friction feel. It can be a bit disconcerting if, like me, you enjoy the feel of a dive watch bezel. It functions well, however, and it can be set in half-hour increments to accommodate odd time zones such as Indian Standard Time (GMT +5:30).

A nice feature of these bezels is that the inserts are covered with a layer of Hardlex. This gives them the look of a ceramic bezel you would find on a much more expensive timepiece. You have to get pretty close to notice that it’s not ceramic.

With the 24-hour scale on the rehaut, the modders out there could fit an elapsed-time bezel from a Seiko diver to have a GMT dive watch. Be warned that this would be a desk diver. The crown is not a screw-down, and with the 100-meter water resistance, you don’t want to be playing Jacques Cousteau with this watch.

Dials

The dials are available in several colors and clearly designate the watches as Seiko with the brand’s well-known layout. The Seiko name and logo are applied at 12 o’clock, while at 6 o’clock, the word “automatic” is applied along with “GMT” in a color that contrasts the dial and matches the GMT hand.

The Seiko 5 GMT dials are designed to be easy to read. A large upside-down triangle indicates 12, with pill-shaped indices at six and nine and round indices at the five-minute marks in between. The three o’clock position is where the date window sits. For better legibility, it is covered with a cyclops lens in the Hardlex crystal.

This feature is somewhat divisive in the watch community. Many people love a cyclops, others not so much. In the case of Seiko 5 GMT, the cyclops does a nice job of magnifying the date. People who regularly travel across timezones will appreciate the feature. A secondary benefit is that the magnified date nicely matches the pills at six and nine. So, kids, if you’re like me and you prefer symmetry, the cyclops is for you.

The handset is classic Seiko with the large arrow minute hand, Roman sword hour hand, and needle second hand with a lollipop on the back end. The GMT hand is a generously sized arrow. On most models, it’s a bright red. On the SSK005 orange dial model, it is a high-contrast gray. The handset stands out against the dial, making it easy to read, whether you are on the go, or tracking time zones from your desk.

The dial and hands are covered with LumiBrite, typical of a Seiko timepiece. It provides a long-lasting brightness that allows you to read the dial in the darkest conditions.

Movement

The movement is the latest version of Seiko’s 4R line, the 4R34. It’s a reliable automatic movement running at 21,600 bph that features hand winding and hacking and has a 41-hour power reserve.

The Seiko 5 GMT is a caller-type watch. In other words, the hour hand can’t be set independently like in a traveler style. Pulling the crown out to the first position allows you to set the date by turning it counterclockwise. A clockwise turn sets the GMT hand. By pulling the crown out to the second position, you can set the time.

The Seiko 5 GMT watches have exhibition case backs covered with Hardlex. The finish on the 4R34 is nothing particularly special, but a true watch lover enjoys seeing the works of the timepiece. You can also show your horologically challenged friends how your watch winds itself.

Strap Options

Most of the Seiko 5 GMT models come with a stainless steel five-link jubilee bracelet. Seiko has improved it from its earlier jubilees, which tended to feel jangly. The current bracelet forms nicely around the wrist and has a more solid feel. This is helped by the solid end links.

The bracelet tapers down to a folding, two-button clasp with the Seiko name stamped on it. Overall, the jubilee pairs nicely with the case and bezel for a bold and classy look. The SSK027 Yuto Horigome Limited Edition comes with a jubilee bracelet in black-coated steel to match the case. The SSK025 is a field watch with a calfskin leather strap in black.

Most Popular Seiko 5 GMT Models

There are a number of Seiko 5 GMT models from which to choose. They all feature the same careful construction, solid materials, and reliability. You get to choose the one that best matches your aesthetic and, of course, your wrist. Here are the five most popular Seiko 5 GMT watches.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK001

Perhaps the most popular of the collection, the Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK001, is a great choice if you like a less bold and more classy watch. It has a 42.5mm case and a matte black dial with a very subtle texture to it. The sliver minute, hour, and second hands, along with the red GMT, set up a contrast that looks as good as it is easy to read.

The bezel is bicolored in black and gray. In lower light conditions, the gray half can look black, but the bezel coordinates nicely with the dial.

Seiko 5 Sports SSK023

Next, we have the Seiko 5 Sports SSK023. The case is the smaller 39.4mm size. With its black dial sporting numerals rather than indices and a silver stainless steel bezel, it has a sophisticated look for the fashion-conscious traveler.

Gray hour and minute hands, along with the red-arrow-tipped second hand and bold red GMT, make it a snap to read at a glance. Unlike most of the Seiko 5 GMT models, the crown sits at three o’clock rather than four, and there are no crown guards, which gives this timepiece a lean look.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK005

If you like a watch that makes a bold statement and pops on the wrist, check out the Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK005. The 42.5mm case with a bright orange dial is sure to make a statement, especially when paired with the black and gray bezel with orange numbers.

The hour and minute hands are lume-filled and outlined in a lighter orange, while the second hand is light orange at the top and dark gray at the bottom. The dark gray GMT hand is super easy to read against the dial. This is a playful GMT model for fun-loving collectors.

Seiko 5 Sports SSK027 Yuto Horigome Limited Edition

For collectors who enjoy a special timepiece, the Seiko Sports SSK027 Yuto Horigome Limited Edition fits the bill. Only 2700 of these beauties were made. This watch is a tribute to the first-ever Olympic gold medalist in skateboarding.

The 42.5mm case is black-coated stainless steel and looks chic with the black dial and bicolor blue and purple bezel. The silver minute and hour hands, silver and black second hand, and red GMT hand provide easy legibility as well as style. The matching black stainless steel jubilee bracelet pulls it all together.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK003

If you want something a bit bolder than black but not quite as bright as orange, you may love the Seiko Sports GMT SSK003. It has a 42.5mm case with a blue sunburst dial set against a black and blue bezel. Silver minute and hour hands, a silver and black second hand, and a red GMT arrow contrast the dial for a great look and ease of reading. You’ll see this model on the wrists of many discerning watch lovers. Maybe it belongs on yours.

Should You Buy A Seiko 5 GMT?

Now that you’ve learned about the collection, is a Seiko 5 GMT right for you? First, is a GMT a type of watch you need and/or want? For frequent travelers, those who do business with folks around the world, or who have family or friends in different time zones, a GMT watch can be enormously helpful.

Serious collectors who want watches of each kind in their collection will consider a GMT a must-have. If you have a large income and plenty of disposable cash, you will probably seek out a GMT from a high-end luxury brand with a hefty price tag. If you’re on a tighter budget, a Seiko 5 GMT is an excellent option. It makes a great first GMT or even a first watch for a newbie collector.

Seiko 5 GMT Pricing & Availability

The Seiko 5 GMT is a popular watch, and you shouldn’t have trouble finding one. You can find them at Seiko’s online store or a Seiko authorized dealer, either brick-and-mortar or online. You can also purchase one from an online dealer on the secondary market. The Seiko 5 GMT is the most affordable watch of its kind out there.

With the exception of the SSK027, which you can pick for $525 (it’s a limited edition, so it costs a bit more) Seiko 5 GMTs sell for less than $500. These models range from $415-$475. If you search around for sales, there are some generous discounts out there. If you decide to go pre-owned, you can pick up a well-cared-for Seiko 5 GMT that looks great for between $300 and $350.

Conclusion

In the world of watches, GMTs are popular, useful, and often priced above what many people can afford. Every serious collector should have a GMT. Thanks to Seiko, you can own a beautiful and reliable GMT timepiece without taking out a second mortgage. In my humble opinion, the Seiko Sports 5 GMT watches are the best option for anyone looking for a low-cost GMT.