Author: Paul Rothbart

Although there are other nations that make great watches, Switzerland has long held the title of the land of fine horology. Brands such as Patek Phillipe, Rolex, and Omega are legendary. However, there are lesser-known and lower-priced brands that are well worth checking out, especially for beginning watch collectors. 

Two of these brands are Tissot and Movado. Each has a long and distinguished history and produces timepieces that are accurate, reliable, and beautiful. If you are looking for your first luxury watch, or maybe something nice to add to your collection, these brands should be considered. Let’s take a closer look at Tissot vs Movado.

Brand Heritage

Both Tissot and Movado were founded in the 19th Century and thus have more than 100 years of experience in crafting their signature styles. Each brand has traveled its own path, but both are worthy of consideration. 

Tissot

In 1853, Charles-Felicien Tissot founded the company along with his son, Charles-Emile Tissot. It should be noted that the brand is not at all connected to Mathey-Tissot. Apparently, in Switzerland, the name, “Tissot” is like “Smith” in the U.S.

The father and son team began making pocket watches in their home in Le Locle, including the world’s first mass-produced pocket watch and the first that tracked two time zones. Tissot’s timepieces sold very well in the Russian Empire and amongst members of the Tsar’s courts, prompting the younger Tissot to move to Moscow in 1885. 

The brand saw continued success as it began crafting wristwatches. When the worldwide economy collapsed in 1929, Tissot formed a partnership with Omega to ensure its survival. The brand thrived and became the official timekeeper for Swiss ski races in 1938 and in 1957 for the Davis Cup. In 1930, Tissot became one of the first brands to make anti-magnetic watches. 

Tissot was an innovator in the use of other materials as well, creating the first plastic watch in 1971, the first mother of pearl in 1987, and the first wood watch the following year. Today, Tissot is part of the Swatch Group, a parent company that includes Omega, Breguet, Hamilton, Longines, Blancpain, and Tissot, among many other brands. Tissot is one of the Swatch Group’s mid-range market brands. 

Movado

A member of a Jewish watchmaking family, Achille Ditesheim founded the company that would become Movado in 1881 La-Chaux-de-Fonds, the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry. Ditesheim partnered with his brothers, Leopold and Issidore, and called the company, L.A. & I. Ditesheim. They built one of the first modern factories in the area and over the next 20 years, the company grew to employ 80 workers.

By 1905, Ditesheim’s business had 150 employees and changed its name to Movado, which is Esperanto for “always in motion”.

Over the next several decades Movado created innovative watches such as the Polyplan, which featured a curved case to match the contours of the wrist, the Soldier’s Watch with a pierced metal cover for protecting the crystal in battle, and the Acevatic, the brand’s first water-resistant case with a screw-down crown.

In 1945, Movado released the minimalist Museum dial, which would become an iconic symbol that instantly identifies a timepiece as a Movado. Working together with Zenith, the brand introduced the El Primero, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement.

This innovation had a huge impact on horology and even Rolex used the movement in their Daytonas and used it as the basis for creating their own chronograph movement. 

The North American Watch Company purchased Movado in 1983. Although the brand’s corporate HQ is in the U.S., the timepieces are still manufactured in Switzerland and live up to that nation’s high standard of quality.

Movado continues to make reliable, accurate, and distinctive timepieces at a lower price point than many other luxury brands. The Heritage Collection offers classic designs. Along with the modern models, Movado offers a wide variety of stylish watches. 

Model Variety

Both Tissot and Movado have several collections that feature a nice variety of timepieces from dress watches, to casual, and sport watches like divers and chronographs.

Tissot

Tissot offers a large number of watches on leather straps and stainless steel bracelets. Cases and bracelets are available in gold-colored stainless steel as well as plain stainless. There are also two-toned stainless and gold-colored bracelets. 

Dials are available in many colors including black, white, blue, Tiffany blue, gold, green, and ivory. Both quartz and automatic movements are offered in classic dress styles, sport watches, and more casual timepieces.

Among the most popular models are the Powermatic 80, PRX, PR100, and Gentlemen’s watches. Tool watches include the Supersport Chrono series of chronographs and the Seastar Dive watches. The Seastars have a generous water resistance of 300 meters, putting them on a par with much more expensive dive watches.

Tissot also has several higher-end models in its Le Locle collection that use 18K gold and rose gold in the cases and bracelets. These have higher prices but are still below $2,000. Tissot has models for both men and women and many have a date complication.

Movado

Movado is best known for its iconic Museum Classic, so named because the original Museum dial, released in 1947, was put on display at New York’s Museum of Modern Art as a permanent exhibit in 1960. It was the first watch dial to be so honored.

Designed to mimic a sundial, the Museum Classic is a plain black dial with a single precious stone set at 12 o’clock to represent the sun. It’s a bold design that stands out. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but the Museum Collection is perhaps the most popular of Movado’s offerings. 

The Museum Sport Collection uses the classic Museum template to create a series of chronographs. The dot at 12 combines with a variety of dial colors, bezels, straps, and bracelets to create a collection of unique and inspired chronographs.

The Movado Bold Collection also shows artistic flair. These models have a dot at 12 o’clock but some have indices like a standard timepiece.

There are dressy models on leather straps and metal bracelets as well as casual models with black-colored stainless steel cases and bracelets. The bold collection includes chronographs and a wide variety of dial colors and textures. 

The Movado Face Collection features the trademark minimalist dial in bold, playful colors for a variety of fun casual watches. Leather straps, stainless steel, and mesh bracelets offer a variety of options to suit fashion-forward horology fans. The Face watches are truly unique timepieces that can make a statement about their wearer.

No watch brand can be a player in the industry without divers and Movado offers those. The SE Diver Automatic comes with a blue or black dial and unidirectional rotating bezel, the signature dot at 12, and a stainless steel case and bracelet.

These timepieces have a respectable 200 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown and date complication.

Design

Design philosophies differ greatly between the two brands and there is zero chance you would ever confuse a Tissot for a Movado or vice versa. 

Tissot

Tissot timepieces are designed in line with classic watch styles in mind. This is not surprising, given the brand’s longtime connection with Omega. Sword hands, three and five-link bracelets, and stitched leather straps are typical on most models as are dot and baton indices and Roman numerals. 

Tissot does offer a variety of standard dial colors and textures such as the check pattern on the Powermatic series. There are models that are a bit bold and feature square cases and skeleton dials, but for the most part, Tissot sticks with a more conservative design.

Movado

Movado’s design philosophy is unique in the world of horology and has been linked for decades with the style of modern art. The Museum dial is at the forefront of this design and influences pretty much every model in the catalog.

Movado watches run the gamut from classy to wildly playful. They’re not for everyone but their fans are loyal to the brand and they have several celebrity ambassadors. Movado lives up to its name as it is always moving forward.

Build Quality & Materials

Beng brands on the more affordable side, the materials used and finishing of Tissot and Movado timepieces are not on the level of high luxury brands. Nevertheless, both companies use quality materials and are built by experienced watchmakers emphasizing reliability and durability. 

Tissot

Most Tissot models have stainless steel cases and the brand uses industry-standard 316L stainless on its cases and bracelets. Scratch-resistant sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating cover dials and exhibition case backs.

Some models in the higher-end Le Locle collection use 18K yellow or rose gold. There are the Gentlemen models that use lighter weight and durable titanium.

Tissot uses the combination of brushed and polished surfaces prevalent in the industry on its cases, indices, and hands. It’s a nice finish but again, not on the level of a luxury watch. Hold a Tissot side-by-side with an Omega and the difference is obvious. Some models are coated in a gold or black color.

Many models use Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands for excellent visibility in darkness. Straps are not the highest quality leather, but genuine leather which is a fairly durable and attractive option. 

Movado

Movado too, is not on the level of luxury brands but does use similar quality materials in its timepieces. Stainless steel cases, bracelets, and hands are made with the same 316L that Tissot uses and some models have 18K gold cases.

Unlike Tissot, Movado uses some less common materials in some of its watches, particularly those in the Face Collection.

Acrylic is used in cases and on the hands of these models for a casual and modish look. Personally, I think they look cheap, kind of like a Swatch, but to each their own.

Some of the Museum Classic watches have cases covered in gold PVD. They have a blingy look without being too expensive. Like Tissot, Movado uses scratch-resistant sapphire coated with an anti-reflective and Super-LumiNova.

Some of the higher-end models use semi-precious stones for the dot at 12 o’clock. Bracelets are stainless steel and straps use genuine leather, ceramic, or silicone. Stainless steel surfaces are brushed and polished like Tissot and do like nice.

They are certainly not anywhere near the Zaratsu polishing of Grand Seiko, but the price point is significantly lower.

Face models are just brushed and most are coated in a color coordinated to the dial and strap. They certainly make a statement but don’t scream luxury.

Movements

Tissot and Movado differ significantly in their movements. Although Tissot uses generic Swiss movements in some models, it also builds some very good in-house movements some of which are COSC-certified.

Movado stopped making in-house movements in 1970 and all models use very good generic Swiss movements. Both brands offer automatic and quartz-powered watches.

Tissot

Tiisot’s best in-house movements are its 11 ½” automatics that are COSC certified and have a solid power reserve of 38 hours. It offers lower-priced watches powered by in-house automatic movements that are not COSC-certified, but still accurate and with 30-hour power reserves. 

At lower price points, Tissot has ETA quartz and automatic movements. All are Swiss-made and solidly built for accuracy and durability. For those who like to take a look at the works of their timepieces, Tissot has models with exhibition case backs. The movements are nicely designed and pretty to look at.

Movado

As stated earlier, Movado no longer makes in-house movements. However, their automatics use the ETA-2824-2 Swiss movement, which is well-made and used by many companies. The quartz Movado timepieces are powered by Citizen Miyota movements, which are solid as well. 

By using generic movements, Movado can keep its prices down. Although these are fine movements and reliable, you aren’t getting anything special that you can’t find in many other brands. There are Movado models with exhibition case backs. The movements look well-made but not especially aesthetically pleasing. 

Price Point

Both Tissot and Movado are in the “accessible luxury” category, meaning that they make quality watches that are affordable for most people looking for a nice timepiece. A great thing is that most chain jewelry and department stores carry both brands. You can take a trip to your local mall and try on models from both to see which you prefer.

Tissot

Tissot offers a wide variety of watches that are priced below $500. Their higher-end automatics range from $500-$1,000. Even their top-of-the-line Le Locle models made with precious metals sell below $2,000, topping out at $1,800. 

When you consider that Tissot uses quality materials and builds in-house movements, some of which are COSC-certified, you realize the brand offers a lot of value for the money.

Movado

Movado fits into the same affordable luxury category and has a similar range of prices as Tissot. The watches of the Face Collection sell for less than $500, but frankly, look like inexpensive watches.

Most of the other collections range in price from $500-$1,000 but in the Heritage and Museum Classic Collections, there are several models that run significantly higher, above $2,000. Some of the Alta Series come in at just under $4,000.

Movado does make stylish, quality timepieces, but considering it doesn’t offer in-house or COSC-certified movements, I can’t say the value for the money is equal to Tissot. Honestly, Movado appeals to a niche section of horology lovers who like a style that is atypical of most brands.

Conclusion

A good watch does not have to be prohibitively expensive. Tissot and Movado are two Swiss brands that prove this. Although not on the list of high-luxury watches, these timepieces are available in a variety of types, styles, and colors, that are perfect for the beginner on a budget or filling out the collections of experienced horological connoisseurs. 

If you’re looking for a quality watch at an affordable price, Tissot and Movado are two candidates worthy of your consideration. I much prefer Tissot for its value for the money, in-house movements, and more classic designs. 

Having said that, Movado has plenty of fans and if you are an avant-garde type of person, the brand might just suit you perfectly.

Rolex is easily the most well-known watch brand on the planet. It has legions of devoted fans, and many horology buffs dream of owning one. With a long history that dates back more than a century and a variety of collections ranging from classic dress watches to divers to chronographs in stylish colorways, there are plenty of Rolexes to choose from. 

Like any luxury brand, Rolex also makes excellent GMT watches. Originally designed for pilots of PanAm in the 1950s, these watches helped usher in the jet age by allowing wearers to track more than one time zone. A useful function for world travelers as well as aviators, Rolex continued to evolve these beautiful tool watches from the GMT Master to the GMT Master II collections.

Today, those seeking one of Rolex’s classic fine timepieces can choose between the Rolex GMT Master 16700 and the GMT Master II 16710. Which is right for you? Let’s take a closer look at these two luxury watches.

The Rolex GMT Master 16700

The Rolex GMT Master Ref. 16700 is the older of these two timepieces. In production from 1988-99, the 16700 is the culmination of the GMT Master series that started in 1955. Jet-powered aircraft and international business made the world a smaller place.

A watch that could track multiple time zones was useful to pilots and travelers as well as anyone who worked or did business with others across the globe.

The Rolex GMT Master 16700 is powered by the brand’s caliber 3175 automatic movement. It has a non-independent GMT hand with a date complication and a hacking function. It’s COSC-certified and has a 48-hour power reserve.

The case is stainless steel and 40 mm in diameter. With a screw-down crown, this watch is water resistant to 100 meters, a good number for a non-diver.

With a black dial and Rolex’s classic handset, consisting of a sword minute hand and the Mercedes hour hand, it’s easy to read, as all of the brand’s watches are. It also has a red arrow GMT hand and a needle second hand. Early models used a tritium lume, while the later ones have Luminova.

The bi-directional 24-hour bezel has an aluminum insert and was available in either two-tone red and blue, called the Pepsi, or all black. You have the option of a bold or subtle dial and bezel combination.

The key feature of the 16700 is its ability to track two time zones. The hour hand goes around the dial once every 12 hours, as is standard, while the GMT hand makes one circuit every 24 hours. The two hands are tied together and cannot be set independently.

The GMT hand essentially displays military time. So, for example, at 9 am, the hour hand will point to the baton at nine on the dial, while the GMT hand points to the nine on the bezel. At 9 pm, the hour hand again points to the baton at nine, but the GMT hand will point to the 21 on the bezel.

The way to track an extra time zone is to turn the bezel so the correct time in the zone you desire is lined up with the GMT hand. All you have to do is read the hand the corresponds to the time zone you are monitoring.

Although the 16700 can only track two time zones, a nice feature is the quick set date, which comes in handy at the end of the shorter months, especially February. 

The GMT Master 16700 comes on either a stainless steel Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, both of which pair nicely with the case.

This timepiece was one of Rolex’s best sellers until it was phased out in 1999 in favor of the GMT Master II 16710. You can still get one on the used market, and they remain popular with horology fans. 

The Rolex GMT Master II 16710

In 1989, Rolex upped its game with the release of the GMT Master II 16710. It offered the ability to track three time zones as well as a new movement and an additional colorway. Production of this update GMT watch ran until 2007, and it was a hit and is still popular on the preowned market.

The early 16710 models were powered by the caliber 3185 movement, with the later ones upgraded to the caliber 3186.

Both movements offer a slightly upgraded power reserve of 50 hours and are COSC-certified. Both movements have a date complication, a hacking function, and a quick set GMT hand. The stainless steel case comes in the same 40 mm size as the 16700 and has a screw-down crown and 100 meters of water resistance. 

Like the 16700, the 16710 has a black dial and the same classic Rolex handset, including the red arrow GMT hand. Up until 1997, the 16710 used a tritium lume and switched to Luminova in 1998 and 1999. For the rest of its run, this watch used Superluminova.

The bi-directional bezel is made from anodized aluminum and is a 120-click bezel. In addition to the red and blue Pepsi and all black bezels, Rolex added a third option. A red and black bezel, which came to be known as the Coke, offers a compromise between the subtle all black and the bold Pepsi. 

The main additional feature of the 16710 is that it can track three time zones. The hour hand travels around the dial once in 12 hours and the GMT hand once in 24 hours, just like the older 16700. However, each hand can be set separately.

This allows the user to track one time zone with the hour hand and a second with the GMT. By adjusting the bezel to a third time zone, you’ve got a triple-threat GMT. There is no quick-set date adjustment, but it’s a small price to pay for the extra time zone tracking.

The 16710 comes on a stainless Oyster or Jubilee bracelet with an Oysterlock clasp. This clasp is more secure than the one that precedes it, and the steel has a greater chromium content. This makes it more corrosion-resistant, offering further protection from water. 

Rolex still makes GMT Master II watches, but the 16710 is out of production and only available as a pre-owned option. It nevertheless is still a popular choice for Rolex collectors.

Rolex GMT Master II 16700 vs 16710 – How to Choose

So, we have two very fine watches in the GMT Master 16700 and the GMT Master II 16710. If you’re looking for a classic Rolex, how do you choose? This depends on the features you need and desire and also the look you prefer.

Starting with aesthetics, if you have your heart set on the Coke color scheme, you will have to go with the 16710, since the 16700 only has the all black and the Pepsi. In these two colorways, the timepieces look virtually identical, and most people would be hard-pressed to tell them apart.

With its stainless bezel and aluminum insert, the 16700 has a slightly vintage look. If that’s important to you, take it into consideration. The anodized aluminum bezel of the 16710 has a subtly slicker look. You have to look very closely to see this, but it does matter to some watch collectors. 

The major difference between these two classic watches is, of course, the ability to track two vs. three time zones. For many people, two is sufficient for their needs.

When you add in the convenience of the quick-set date, the 16700 is a good choice. Not everyone needs to track three time zones, but if, say, you work in the New York office of an international company that has branches in London and LA, you may find the added time zone useful. 

The dials and handsets are identical, but there is the question of lume. If you are a tritium fan, there are far more 16700s out there with that option. The 16710 only used tritium briefly. You should have no trouble finding either of these watches with Luminova, but if you prefer Superluminova, you’ve got to go with the 16710. 

In terms of movements, the 16710 is available with the updated 3185 or 3186. However, the 3175 of the 16700 is every bit as accurate and reliable, so this is really just a matter of an additional two hours of power reserve. Both watches are available with either the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, but if you are a fan of the Oysterlock clasp, that points you to the 16710. 

Conclusion

Throughout its long history, Rolex has produced a large number of classic watches that are stylish, reliable, and accurate. The GMT Master series watches are among the best timepieces of that type on the market.

Two of the most popular among horology connoisseurs are the GMT Master 16700 and the GMT Master II 16710. If you like the look of these timepieces, consider what options are most important to you, and search the pre-owned market for the one that floats your boat.

Comparisons are inevitable, especially when it comes to consumer goods. Ford vs. Chevy, Coke vs. Pepsi, Android vs. iPhone. These comparisons are often polarizing, with fanboys and fangirls landing solidly on one side or the other. The world of horology is no different.

Two of the finest watchmakers on the planet are Rolex, the world’s most famous brand, and Grand Seiko, Japan’s luxury brand. Each has a long history, and you can’t go wrong with either if you are seeking a high-quality, reliable, and aesthetically pleasing timepiece. 

Rolex and Grand Seiko can both fit the bill quite nicely. However, there are significant differences between the two brands in design philosophy, technical innovations, and other aspects of watchmaking. Let’s explore them.

Brand Heritage

Rolex

Rolex has a distinguished history that dates back to 1905 when Hans Wilsdorf started the company in London. Later, Wilsdorf moved his company to Switzerland and quickly established Rolex as one of the best watches, Swiss or otherwise, on the market. 

Wilsdorf’s true genius came in marketing. In 1926, Rolex purchased the patent for a water and dust-resistant case that it called the Oyster. The following year, Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English Channel with a Rolex Oyster hung around her neck. The publicity boosted the popularity of the brand and the model to great heights.

In 1931, Rolex developed an automatic movement when it invented the perpetual rotor, which wound the watch as the wearer moved their arms. This is the same basic mechanism used today by all automatic watches.

Over the years, the brand created tool watches such as divers, chronographs, and GMTs. Long before it became a symbol of luxury and status, Rolex was known for quality timepieces that performed useful tasks. 

Today, Rolex has firmly cemented its place as the best-known watch brand worldwide. It is known even by the horologically ignorant.

Their reputation is so strong that despite making a million watches a year, Rolex cannot meet the demand. This leads to long wait times on lists of interest and the necessity of developing lasting relationships with Rolex ADs. 

Counterfeiting and flipping are two phenomena that Rolex has had to take steps to guard against, and each has influenced its design and marketing strategies.

Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko also has a long history that has humble beginnings. In 1881, Kintaro Hattori founded a company that initially bore his name. Hattori was a staunch admirer of Swiss watchmakers and strove to match the level of craftsmanship and quality in watches of his own making. 

In 1892, Hattori renamed his company Seikosha and, in 1913, produced the Laurel, the first Japanese wristwatch. In 1924, the brand’s name was changed to Seiko, and the first Seiko watches hit the market.

During the Second World War, Seiko supplied watches to the Japanese military. The post-war period saw advancements such as the 1956 launch of Japan’s first automatic watch. In 1959, Seiko patented the Magic Lever, a self-winding mechanism that was simple and reliable and it helped popularize automatic watches.

In 1960, Seiko created the first Grand Seiko watch, designed to be the most accurate wristwatch in the world and place the company on par with the Swiss luxury brands.

By 1963, Seiko was developing the first quartz timepieces to be used at the 1964 Tokyo Olympics. This technology had a tremendous impact on the world of horology and eventually created the Quartz Crisis, which changed the industry dramatically.

The 60s were a decade of great progress for Seiko and saw the release of Japan’s first chronograph and dive watch. In 1967, the final year of the Neuchatel Observatory competition. Seiko took second and third place to make a huge statement to the watchmaking industry.

In 2017, Grand Seiko became its own brand, separate from Seiko, and began selling watches in the U.S. and throughout the world. Since then, with continued innovation and stunning designs, the brand has rapidly climbed the ladder as one of the most popular watches amongst horology connoisseurs. 

Model Variety

Both Rolex and Grand Seiko offer a number of models covering the main categories of watches: dress, diver, chronograph, and GMT. Within each category, both brands have a variety of selections in terms of materials, case sizes, strap options, dial color and texture, and complications. Ladies’ and men’s models are also offered by each. Let’s take a closer look.

Rolex

At the top of the Rolex catalog are its two elegant and popular dress watches, the datejust and the day-date. Both models feature a date complication at three o’clock under Rolex’s Cyclops magnifying lens. 

The day-date has the day of the week spelled out above the logo at 12 o’clock. It acquired the classy nickname “The President” in the 1960s when it was Lyndon Johnson’s timepiece of choice. With a variety of dial colors, case sizes, and both men’s and women’s models, these watches are a staple of the Rolex brand.

There is also the legendary Oyster Perpetual, Rolex’s first automatic water-resistant watch. With 100 meters of water resistance and a wide variety of dial colors and patterns, it is as popular today as ever.

With its early development of a water-resistant case, it should be no surprise that Rolex offers one of the industry’s best dive watches, the Submariner. First released in 1953, the Submariner has maintained its classic design and is available in a variety of dial colors with complementary or contrasting bezels. 

The basic Submariner has a water resistance of 300 meters. Other dive watches include the Sea-Dweller, with a 1220-meter water resistance, and the Deepsea, which is water resistant to an incredible 3900 meters. Divers today use dive computers, and no human could survive at these depths. Rolex’s ultra-dive watches were developed as a result of its competition with Omega.

Rolex has a historical connection to auto racing, and British driver Sir Malcolm Campbell had one on his wrist in 1935 when he set a world land speed record in Daytona, Florida. Naturally, the brand offers the Cosmograph Daytona, one of the most sought-after chronographs on the market. Current models come in a variety of dial colors, case materials, and other options.

For a frequent traveler, a GMT watch is desirable, and Rolex has some great ones. Released in 1954, the GMT-Master remains perhaps the most popular watch of its kind. These timepieces feature an extra GMT hour hand and a bidirectional rotating bezel. The dials come in a variety of colors coordinated with two-color bezels that led to nicknames such as “Pepsi”, “Coke”, “Root Beer”, and “Batman”. 

Rolex’s models have changed very little in design over the years. This makes sense when you consider its impressive sales record. Why mess with a winning formula?

Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko offers outstanding watches in all of these categories as well. A gorgeous variety of dial colors and textures, as well as case materials and straps make the Grand Seiko catalog a playground for watch lovers.

When it comes to dress watches, it’s hard to top Grand Seiko’s Heritage and Elegance collections. With a variety of case sizes, men’s and ladies’ models, case materials, and incredible dial colors and textures, a true watch aficionado has a huge variety of options. 

Originally dedicated to mostly elegant dress watches, when Grand Seiko became a separate brand in 2017, it began offering tool watches, including some impressive divers. The Sport and Evolution 9 collections include dive watches with water resistance of 200 and 600 meters.

Titanium cases and dial options in blue with textures that evoke the feel of the waves of the sea make Grand Seiko an excellent choice for dive watch fans. They rank among my favorites in the dive category, which is my preferred type.

Looking for a chronograph? Grand Seiko has you covered. The Tentagraph, so named because of its 10 beats per second Caliber 9R96 Spring Drive movement, is among the most accurate chronographs out there. With a variety of dial colors, textures, and subdial alignments, Grand Seiko can please a wide variety of chronograph fans. 

When it comes to GMTs, Grand Seiko takes a backseat to no one. The Sport Collection has models with beautifully coordinated bezel and dial colors, and textures with the same Grand Seiko high quality, accuracy, and reliability. 

Design

In regards to design ingenuity and philosophy, the two brands differ, yet each is dedicated to quality, consistency, and pleasing aesthetics. 

Rolex

Rolex has built a reputation as THE watch to own. It’s the grail wrist candy for millions, the watch for a graduation or retirement gift, or to commemorate a special achievement. As such, the need for innovation and ingenuity is not that great.

Early on in its history, Rolex was involved in the development of water-resistant cases and automatic movements. It remains dedicated to timepieces that are accurate to COSC standards, made of the highest quality materials, and beautifully fit and finished.

In terms of design, Rolex watches have not changed much over the decades. For example, a modern Submariner shows very little difference to one from the 50s or 60s. Rolex does come out with new bezel and dial color combinations and even a few gaudy dials, such as the Oyster Perpetual Gumball or the Daytona Eye of the Tiger, but for the most part, the basic case, hands, and bracelets remain the same.

The huge amount of counterfeits out there has caused Rolex to add features such as the crown logo engraved on the crystal to help authenticate the real deal. 

Rolex generally sticks to automatics and solid, unengraved casebacks. These are standard features that many watch collectors desire. Rolex markets heavily to watch snobs. This is not a criticism. It’s a smart marketing strategy. These are the people who absolutely love the brand, and their loyalty keeps Rolex near the top of the heap.

Grand Seiko

When it comes to innovations in technical and design aspects of watchmaking, Grand Seiko is not one to rest on its laurels. The brand follows its founder’s desire to compete with and surpass the best Swiss brands. Japanese manufacturers, in general, follow a “there’s always room for improvement” philosophy, and Grand Seiko is no exception.

In terms of design, Grand Seiko continually uses new materials and adds new dial colors and textures. Innovative technology combined with aesthetic beauty keeps the brand moving forward.

Build Quality & Materials

Both Rolex and Grand Seiko feature high levels of build quality and the best materials. Fit and finish are paramount to both brands.

Rolex

Rolex uses its own blend of 904L stainless steel, crafted at its own factory. Named “Oystersteel”, it’s robust and aesthetically pleasing. As with other luxury brands, Rolex also uses 18K yellow, gold, and everose gold in its precious metal models. 

Sapphire crystals and ceramic bezels are other Rolex hallmarks, as are high-quality leather straps and metal bracelets. The brand also uses a combination of brushed and polished surfaces to make cases, indices, and hands pop.

Rolex dials are designed to be easy to read and to add color and contrast to the bezels. They are beautiful without being particularly spectacular.

For decades, Rolex watches have had a well-earned reputation as hardy tool watches. That aspect is still there but elevated to a higher level of luxury. No watch leaves the Rolex factory with even the slightest of flaws. 

Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko uses 316L stainless steel, an industry-standard in its watches, as well as lightweight, durable titanium. Precious metal watches are made with 18K yellow, white, and rose gold in the cases, bezels, and bracelets.

Grand Seiko’s straps are high-quality leather and crocodile. Sapphire crystals sit above the dial and exhibition casebacks.

As for the finish, Grand Seiko also uses brushed and polished surfaces but takes it to another level with their own Zaratsu polishing. This method gives cases, bracelets, bezels, indices, and hands a gorgeous mirror finish, unlike anything you will see on a competing brand. Every part is precision cut by experts in their field, and the fit is flawless.

Grand Seiko does everything well, but when it comes to dials, their craftsmanship and designs are out of this world. The Japanese revere nature, and this is reflected in the brand’s dials. 

Whereas Rolex would give you an on-the-nose design with a green dial, perhaps with an image of a tree to simulate nature, Grand Seiko does it in an abstract fashion that will affect you in a visceral way.

The dial would be an evergreen color with a texture that matched the actual needles. You can almost smell the pine looking at a dial like this. There are dials that evoke lakes at different times of day, snow, ice, and sakura leaves in various seasons. 

Nobody does dials like Grand Seiko, and this alone establishes the brand as one of the best in the watchmaking world.

Movements

As nice as a watch may look, it’s useless without a quality movement. Both brands create their movements in-house and are known for quality and accuracy.

Rolex

In their early days, Rolex was an innovator, with their perpetual models that advanced automatic movements. The first Daytonas used modified Zenith chronograph movements that were advanced for their time. 

These days, Rolex is not so innovative, but their movements are among the most accurate in the business, COSC certified, reliable, and durable, and with generous power reserves. The movements are made with top-quality materials and finished beautifully. Unfortunately, only your local watchmaker gets to see the movement, as Rolex doesn’t do exhibition casebacks.

Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko has continually been an innovator with regard to movements, utilizing the Japanese passion for technology. The brand offers several types of movements, including the Hi Beat which  operates at 36000 bph, yet still has an impressive power reserve of 70 hours.

The patented Spring Drive movement is an amazing innovation that combines the prestige of an automatic movement with the accuracy of quartz. In addition to ratings higher than that of COSC, these watches have the smooth second hand sweep of an automatic.

Grand Seiko uses the best quality materials in their movements and finishes them beautifully. Stripe patterns made from polished and brushed surfaces, logo and movement specs inlaid in gold make the movements works of art in their own right. Thanks to the proliferation of exhibition case backs, you can enjoy the look of the movement and share it with your watch-loving friends anytime you like. 

Price Point

Whether any watch is considered expensive is relative to a buyer’s income and budget. That said, both Rolex and Grand Seiko are expensive watches. Given their high quality, that should be expected. Both brands have models that have a very hefty price tag, but in general, Rolexes cost significantly more.

Rolex

With its incredible reputation and general public perception of being THE watch to own, Rolex’s price points are high. Brand new, the lowest priced models go for $9200, and the prices go way beyond $10,000 and even $20,000. That’s if you can get one.

Rolex is unable to meet the yearly demand for its timepieces, and getting one from an AD can involve a song and a dance you may not be willing to go through, especially if you have never purchased one from the store in question.

You could go the grey market route, but prices will be higher, often significantly so. As for value for the money, sure some Rolexes appreciate, but watches, in general, are not considered good bets for investment, and the market is currently in a down cycle.

Rolex is a high-quality brand that will last long enough to pass down to your grandchildren, and they certainly carry a ton of prestige but the prestige is what you are paying for.

Other brands, such as Grand Seiko, offer watches that are every bit as good and sometimes better for a much lower price. Many people also find them much more aesthetically pleasing. 

Grand Seiko

Although Grand Seiko does have its share of super high-priced watches, many of their finest models sell for less than $10,000 and some for less than $8,000.

These timepieces are beautifully designed and finished horological masterpieces. They will last, keep incredibly accurate time, and look great on your wrist. 

Conclusion

Rolex occupies a lofty position in the world of horology. Grand Seiko is rapidly climbing the ladder, and most watch lovers recognize it as one of the best. Which is better? That largely comes down to personal preference. 

For me, there’s no contest. Value for the money, design philosophy, and those incredible dials put me solidly on Team Grand Seiko. Not that Rolexes aren’t outstanding watches. But I feel that the difficulty of obtaining one and the much higher cost aren’t worth the perceived prestige. 

Your choice depends upon your preferences and whichever way you go, you’re going to get one hell of a timepiece.

It is impossible to state definitively what the best watch brand is. As with most other things, you can come up with a group of worthy candidates, but it’s all subjective, and everyone has their own valid opinions. However, I think we would all agree that there is one brand that is more well-known than any other. That would be Rolex.

Ask 10 random people on the street to name a luxury watch brand, and it is highly likely that all of them will say Rolex. Hans Wilsdorf was a brilliant marketer and to this day, the brand has nearly 100% recognition.

A gold Rolex is the classic retirement gift, graduation present, or trophy for a life 

accomplishment. For millions of people, a Rolex is their grail watch. There is, however, a downside to being this well-known. 

The world is full of nefarious types who counterfeit everything from artwork to musical instruments and even money. Fake timepieces abound and Rolex is counterfeited more than any other brand. Take a walk down Canal Street in Lower Manhattan, and you will see dozens of fake Rolexes for sale.

If you dream of landing one of these prestigious timepieces on your wrist, especially if the price tag is a bit out of your range, you may be tempted to search for bargains. It is all too easy to be tricked, as counterfeiters have become very sophisticated and made some watches look very close to the real thing. Here’s what you need to know before delving into the marketplace.

The Telltale Signs of a Fake Rolex

Before we begin, you should be warned about buying online. Unless the company is a reputable watch shop, be wary of buying a Rolex. Determining whether a watch is real or fake from pictures on a website is nearly impossible unless you are an expert. Always look at any Rolex you are considering buying in person.

The first thing to do is to heft the watch. Rolex uses high-quality 904L stainless steel, 18K gold, and other precious metals in their timepieces. Counterfeits use cheaper materials that weigh less. The watch should feel solid. If it feels light and cheap, do not buy it.

Next, look at the fit and finish. Examine every component, dial, hands, indices, bezel, and bracelet. If parts look poorly cut or polished or pieces don’t fit nicely together, it’s a fake. Rolex takes great pride in its timepieces, and it does not let poorly made watches leave the factory. 

Another thing to note is that if you are looking at a Rolex that has both day and date complications, it should be made of gold or platinum. Rolex does not make day-dates in stainless steel. That is a sure sign of a fake.

Check the case back. Rolex does have a few models with exhibition case-backs, but they are rare. If the back of the case is not solid, pass on the watch. In their quest for elegance, most Rolex case-backs are plain. There are a few that are engraved, but be suspicious if the watch you are looking at does not have a plain case-back.

The magnifier that sits above the date complication on the Submariner and other models is called a cyclops. Rolex invented it, and it magnifies the numeral exactly 2.5 times. It is coated on the inside with a clear anti-reflective substance. 

If you see a tint of color in the cyclops or the date is hard to read and reflects glare, the watch is a fake. The date numeral should also be in an easy-to-read font and be perfectly centered in the window.

Now, we are going to check the rehaut. This is the ring around the inner surface that connects the dial to the bezel. It should have the name “Rolex” engraved several times around the circumference. Further, on the side from 12 o’clock to six, the “X” should line up with the hour markers. On the six to 12 side, the “R” will line up with the hour markers.

The engraving should be easy to read and have a high-quality look to it. At the six o’clock side of the rehaut, the serial number should be engraved and easy to read. If a serial number is present, you can look it up online to get more information about the watch. On the outside of the case between the lugs above 12 o’clock, the model number should be engraved. To see it, you will have to remove the bracelet or strap.

Rolex has become very clever in adding features to indicate that a watch is genuine. In 2002, they began engraving a small crown logo on the crystal at six o’clock. It’s hard to see with the naked eye unless the lighting and angle are perfect. Using a loupe or magnifying glass is the best way to check.

If the crown is not there, the watch is a fake. Also, the crown will be made up of a series of laser-engraved dots of varying depth. This is extremely difficult for a counterfeiter to get right and is one of the best ways to verify whether a Rolex is real or not. 

Remove the case back and look at the movement. On a genuine Rolex, the parts will be perfectly machined and finished and fit together with no gaps. Fakes don’t have the quality machining or polished finish of the real thing. Check the movement by winding the watch. On a real Rolex, it will feel smooth and be easy to turn the crown. If the movement feels gritty and doesn’t wind with ease, it’s a fake. 

Note that although Rolex has made models with quartz movements, they are rare. The vast majority of Rolexes have automatic movements, so if it’s a quartz, that should raise red flags.

Speaking of the crown, the Rolex logo, which is a crown, should be perfectly embossed on the crown. On recent models, there will be two or three dots or bars beneath the logo. Counterfeiters consistently miss this detail. The grooves on the sides of the crown should be perfectly cut and uniform in size and depth.

In addition to the quality of the bracelet or strap, find out which Rolex pairs with the model you are looking at. If the strap or bracelet is wrong, the watch could be fake. It might also be real but placed on a fake bracelet. The wrong combo should make you question the authenticity.

Finally, the Rolex logo on the bracelet clasp should be crisp, clear, and perfectly embossed. Fakes usually get this wrong and often it’s a poorly cut logo soldered on.

Are Fake Rolex Watches Worth It?

Now that you know how to spot a fake Rolex, you might be tempted to buy one anyway because they are priced so much lower than the real thing. There are many companies that make what they call., “Super Clones”. Own an exact copy of a Submariner for $1,500. 

Don’t fall for this. First, these watches are made from inferior materials and use generic movements that are nowhere near as accurate, precise, or durable as a real Rolex. That’s why they’re so cheap.

The biggest problem with buying a fake Rolex is that counterfeiting is illegal in most jurisdictions. Watchmakers can copy an unpatented Rolex design as long as they put their own name and logo on it.

Using the Rolex name and logo is trademark infringement. These companies can be prosecuted for fraud and false advertising. In many places, it is illegal to own a counterfeit product. If you knowingly buy a fake, you could find yourself in legal trouble. Also, if you buy one, you are stuck with it. It is against the law in most countries to sell a counterfeit item even if you inform the potential buyer that it is a fake. 

I would thus advise you against buying a fake Rolex. The possible exposure to legal trouble, coupled with the fact that you are hurting the brand, no matter how wealthy it is, make it a really bad idea. Think about it. If it’s not real, you will always be aware of it and never have the satisfaction that real Rolex owners enjoy. As for prestige, the average person will rarely notice that you are even wearing a watch and a horology connoisseur will likely spot it as a fake. 

How to Avoid Getting a Fake Rolex

If you are in the market for a Rolex, you want to avoid getting stuck with a fake. The most important thing to do is to carefully vet any seller. Stick with a Rolex authorized dealer or a grey market shop with a sterling reputation. Avoid eBay and Craig’s list. They are loaded with shady types and you don’t know who you are dealing with. 

Don’t buy online unless the dealer has a great reputation. Check out the watch you are considering in person. Examine it thoroughly and look for all of the issues we discussed. Don’t be afraid to ask lots of questions. You are taking a big risk and are entitled to all information about the watch. If the seller is not forthcoming in answering your questions, get out of there.

If you have a friend who is very knowledgeable about watches, take them with you. By all means, do not even consider any “Rolex” that is being offered at a ridiculously low price. Even Rolex’s lowest-priced brand-new models are going to run north of $10,000. 

Conclusion

Rolex is easily the most well-known watch brand on the planet and it has an enormous number of fans. As such, it is the most counterfeited. If you dream of owning a Rolex, keep in mind that there are probably as many fakes out there as real ones.

Purchasing a fake Rolex or super clone is not worth it. Go with an AD or seller with an impeccable reputation and save your money to buy a genuine Rolex. You will be much happier. One more tip. If the name on the dial is spelled, “Rolecks”, it’s probably a fake.