Author: Paul Rothbart

It is impossible to state definitively what the best watch brand is. As with most other things, you can come up with a group of worthy candidates, but it’s all subjective, and everyone has their own valid opinions. However, I think we would all agree that there is one brand that is more well-known than any other. That would be Rolex.

Ask 10 random people on the street to name a luxury watch brand, and it is highly likely that all of them will say Rolex. Hans Wilsdorf was a brilliant marketer and to this day, the brand has nearly 100% recognition.

A gold Rolex is the classic retirement gift, graduation present, or trophy for a life 

accomplishment. For millions of people, a Rolex is their grail watch. There is, however, a downside to being this well-known. 

The world is full of nefarious types who counterfeit everything from artwork to musical instruments and even money. Fake timepieces abound and Rolex is counterfeited more than any other brand. Take a walk down Canal Street in Lower Manhattan, and you will see dozens of fake Rolexes for sale.

If you dream of landing one of these prestigious timepieces on your wrist, especially if the price tag is a bit out of your range, you may be tempted to search for bargains. It is all too easy to be tricked, as counterfeiters have become very sophisticated and made some watches look very close to the real thing. Here’s what you need to know before delving into the marketplace.

The Telltale Signs of a Fake Rolex

Before we begin, you should be warned about buying online. Unless the company is a reputable watch shop, be wary of buying a Rolex. Determining whether a watch is real or fake from pictures on a website is nearly impossible unless you are an expert. Always look at any Rolex you are considering buying in person.

The first thing to do is to heft the watch. Rolex uses high-quality 904L stainless steel, 18K gold, and other precious metals in their timepieces. Counterfeits use cheaper materials that weigh less. The watch should feel solid. If it feels light and cheap, do not buy it.

Next, look at the fit and finish. Examine every component, dial, hands, indices, bezel, and bracelet. If parts look poorly cut or polished or pieces don’t fit nicely together, it’s a fake. Rolex takes great pride in its timepieces, and it does not let poorly made watches leave the factory. 

Another thing to note is that if you are looking at a Rolex that has both day and date complications, it should be made of gold or platinum. Rolex does not make day-dates in stainless steel. That is a sure sign of a fake.

Check the case back. Rolex does have a few models with exhibition case-backs, but they are rare. If the back of the case is not solid, pass on the watch. In their quest for elegance, most Rolex case-backs are plain. There are a few that are engraved, but be suspicious if the watch you are looking at does not have a plain case-back.

The magnifier that sits above the date complication on the Submariner and other models is called a cyclops. Rolex invented it, and it magnifies the numeral exactly 2.5 times. It is coated on the inside with a clear anti-reflective substance. 

If you see a tint of color in the cyclops or the date is hard to read and reflects glare, the watch is a fake. The date numeral should also be in an easy-to-read font and be perfectly centered in the window.

Now, we are going to check the rehaut. This is the ring around the inner surface that connects the dial to the bezel. It should have the name “Rolex” engraved several times around the circumference. Further, on the side from 12 o’clock to six, the “X” should line up with the hour markers. On the six to 12 side, the “R” will line up with the hour markers.

The engraving should be easy to read and have a high-quality look to it. At the six o’clock side of the rehaut, the serial number should be engraved and easy to read. If a serial number is present, you can look it up online to get more information about the watch. On the outside of the case between the lugs above 12 o’clock, the model number should be engraved. To see it, you will have to remove the bracelet or strap.

Rolex has become very clever in adding features to indicate that a watch is genuine. In 2002, they began engraving a small crown logo on the crystal at six o’clock. It’s hard to see with the naked eye unless the lighting and angle are perfect. Using a loupe or magnifying glass is the best way to check.

If the crown is not there, the watch is a fake. Also, the crown will be made up of a series of laser-engraved dots of varying depth. This is extremely difficult for a counterfeiter to get right and is one of the best ways to verify whether a Rolex is real or not. 

Remove the case back and look at the movement. On a genuine Rolex, the parts will be perfectly machined and finished and fit together with no gaps. Fakes don’t have the quality machining or polished finish of the real thing. Check the movement by winding the watch. On a real Rolex, it will feel smooth and be easy to turn the crown. If the movement feels gritty and doesn’t wind with ease, it’s a fake. 

Note that although Rolex has made models with quartz movements, they are rare. The vast majority of Rolexes have automatic movements, so if it’s a quartz, that should raise red flags.

Speaking of the crown, the Rolex logo, which is a crown, should be perfectly embossed on the crown. On recent models, there will be two or three dots or bars beneath the logo. Counterfeiters consistently miss this detail. The grooves on the sides of the crown should be perfectly cut and uniform in size and depth.

In addition to the quality of the bracelet or strap, find out which Rolex pairs with the model you are looking at. If the strap or bracelet is wrong, the watch could be fake. It might also be real but placed on a fake bracelet. The wrong combo should make you question the authenticity.

Finally, the Rolex logo on the bracelet clasp should be crisp, clear, and perfectly embossed. Fakes usually get this wrong and often it’s a poorly cut logo soldered on.

Are Fake Rolex Watches Worth It?

Now that you know how to spot a fake Rolex, you might be tempted to buy one anyway because they are priced so much lower than the real thing. There are many companies that make what they call., “Super Clones”. Own an exact copy of a Submariner for $1,500. 

Don’t fall for this. First, these watches are made from inferior materials and use generic movements that are nowhere near as accurate, precise, or durable as a real Rolex. That’s why they’re so cheap.

The biggest problem with buying a fake Rolex is that counterfeiting is illegal in most jurisdictions. Watchmakers can copy an unpatented Rolex design as long as they put their own name and logo on it.

Using the Rolex name and logo is trademark infringement. These companies can be prosecuted for fraud and false advertising. In many places, it is illegal to own a counterfeit product. If you knowingly buy a fake, you could find yourself in legal trouble. Also, if you buy one, you are stuck with it. It is against the law in most countries to sell a counterfeit item even if you inform the potential buyer that it is a fake. 

I would thus advise you against buying a fake Rolex. The possible exposure to legal trouble, coupled with the fact that you are hurting the brand, no matter how wealthy it is, make it a really bad idea. Think about it. If it’s not real, you will always be aware of it and never have the satisfaction that real Rolex owners enjoy. As for prestige, the average person will rarely notice that you are even wearing a watch and a horology connoisseur will likely spot it as a fake. 

How to Avoid Getting a Fake Rolex

If you are in the market for a Rolex, you want to avoid getting stuck with a fake. The most important thing to do is to carefully vet any seller. Stick with a Rolex authorized dealer or a grey market shop with a sterling reputation. Avoid eBay and Craig’s list. They are loaded with shady types and you don’t know who you are dealing with. 

Don’t buy online unless the dealer has a great reputation. Check out the watch you are considering in person. Examine it thoroughly and look for all of the issues we discussed. Don’t be afraid to ask lots of questions. You are taking a big risk and are entitled to all information about the watch. If the seller is not forthcoming in answering your questions, get out of there.

If you have a friend who is very knowledgeable about watches, take them with you. By all means, do not even consider any “Rolex” that is being offered at a ridiculously low price. Even Rolex’s lowest-priced brand-new models are going to run north of $10,000. 

Conclusion

Rolex is easily the most well-known watch brand on the planet and it has an enormous number of fans. As such, it is the most counterfeited. If you dream of owning a Rolex, keep in mind that there are probably as many fakes out there as real ones.

Purchasing a fake Rolex or super clone is not worth it. Go with an AD or seller with an impeccable reputation and save your money to buy a genuine Rolex. You will be much happier. One more tip. If the name on the dial is spelled, “Rolecks”, it’s probably a fake. 

Over time, the way people dress has gotten more casual. You don’t see men wearing suits every day or even to most jobs. With casual clothes come casual watches. Tool watches such as divers and chronographs fill the collections of many watch lovers.

However, you may need to dress it up every once in a while. You could be invited to a wedding, a job interview, or another event where you need more formal attire. In these situations, you’ll need a watch to match the level of formality. Not that you can’t wear a diver with a suit, but a dress watch will elevate your appearance.

If, like most guys, you have one suit, you should have one dress watch to go with it. You want it to be elegant, accurate, and reliable, and a brand that checks all those boxes is Grand Seiko.

For more than 140 years, the prestigious Japanese watchmaker has been creating timepieces that rival anything coming out of Switzerland. If you are looking for a classic dress watch to complete your best outfits, look no further than the Grand Seiko SBGW301 Elegance Manual. Let’s take a good look at this stunning timepiece.

History

Grand Seiko has produced many mechanical dress watches over the years and continues to update them. The models in the Elegance Collection are among the finest. 

In 2017, the brand released the stunning hand-wound SBGW231, which was a hit with many watch lovers. The simple three-hand, cream-colored dial was appreciated for its simplicity and beauty. It was essentially a newer version of 2001’s SBGW001, which was, in turn, inspired by the original Grand Seiko released in 1960.

More recently, Grand Seiko created an updated version of the 231, the SBGW301. Released in January of 2024, the 301 also has a manual mechanical movement free from complications. With a few slight changes, the newer model is proving to be every bit the classic its older sibling is. 

Case

The 316L stainless steel case is 37.3 mm in diameter, a perfect size for a dress watch. Small enough to be elegant but big enough to suit small to average-size wrists. With a 43.3 mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 11.7 mm, it will easily slide under a shirt cuff and maintain a low profile, as any good dress watch should. 

The surfaces of the case are brushed and polished using Grand Seiko’s trademark Zaratsu process. This gives it depth, and its sleek lines combined with the gentle curves of the lugs make for a truly beautiful case.

The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal is double-dome, which makes up a significant part of the watch’s thickness. A sapphire is also used for the exhibition case back. It’s nice for fans of fine horology to be able to take a peek at the movement, especially with a brand that puts this much into the design. 

As you would expect, the crown is a simple push-pull and is only needed for winding and setting the time. The water resistance is only 30 m, which is perfectly acceptable for a dress watch. The crown is large, which makes the case seem a bit bulky. But that does make it easy to grip when winding.

Dial

When it comes to watch style, it’s all about the dial. It’s where you look to see the time and draws more attention than any other part of a watch. Grand Seiko excels at pretty much every aspect of watchmaking but it’s their dials that really steal the show.

The dial on the SBGW301 doesn’t have a texture like so many Grand Seiko models. But the smooth finish fits perfectly with its dress watch elegance. The color is a beautiful ivory. White is a suitable color for a dress watch, but it can seem stark and antiseptic. The dial of the 301 is subtle but carries just enough color to give it added interest.

The indices are precision-cut, brushed, and polished stainless batons with double batons at three, six, nine, and 12 o’clock. The hands are also stainless with brushed and polished surfaces. The minute and hour hands taper, and the second hand is a needle. They stand out nicely against the dial, making the watch easy to read but not flashy.

Simple black ticks around the outer edge of the dial form the minute track. Applied at 12 o’clock in stainless steel is the Grand Seiko logo with the name in black underneath. There is no other text on the dial, maintaining the minimalist look. It’s classic Grand Seiko, and the lack of a date complication only adds to the dressy elegance of the dial and the entire watch. 

Movement

The watch is powered by Grand Seiko’s in-house Caliber 9S64 mechanical manual movement. With 24 jewels, it operates at 4Hz and with adjustments at six different points, has an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds per day. Better than COSC so you won’t have to reset it too often. Although not an automatic movement, the 72-hour power reserve means you won’t have to wind it every day. With a timepiece this nice, you will likely enjoy the winding experience. If you wear it to work, you can put it down over the weekend and it will still be ticking Monday morning. 

It’s an attractive design too. Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can view the brushed and polished stripe pattern and the engraved Grand Seiko logo and name in black. The movement specs are engraved in shiny gold and you can watch the balance wheel do its work.

Straps

The strap of a watch should do more than just hold it on your wrist. Ideally, it complements and enhances the style and character of the timepiece it’s attached to. The SBGW301 has a strap that pairs perfectly with the case.

A deep black crocodile leather strap contrasts the stainless case and also looks great with the ivory dial. The leather is soft, flexible, and very comfortable. It is attached with a pin buckle adorned with a vintage Grand Seiko logo, a tribute to the brand’s heritage that adds to the style of the watch.

The lugs are drilled, making switching out the strap easy. The lug width is on the small side at 19 mm, and it may be tough to find straps in that size. Honestly, you can’t top what Grand Seiko did here and probably won’t want to change the strap anyway.

On-Wrist Experience

Let’s talk about how the SBGW301 looks and feels. My frame of reference is my average-sized 7.25-inch wrist. I prefer watches in the 40-42 mm range. As a high-end dress watch, the small case of the 301 looks good on my wrist. Given that I would only wear it when dressed up, I think I like the smaller case better than my typical size watch. 

If your wrist is small to average size, you are not likely to have a problem with the 301. People with bigger wrists approaching eight inches will probably find it too small, dress watch status notwithstanding.

As for comfort, it feels very nice. It’s not a heavy watch at all and the crocodile strap is soft and supple. If you have it adjusted properly, you may not even be aware that the watch is held on with a strap. It will easily slide under a shirt cuff, tucked away neatly until you need it.

The color scheme is perfectly neutral. I like it better than plain white. Ivory adds interest, but will go with another color you may wish to wear. Hot, warm, cool, earth tones, you name it, you can wear it with the SBGW301.

You don’t have to be in a tux but you will want to be dressed fairly well when you wear it. It will work with a suit, blazer, or sport jacket, with or without a tie. I wouldn’t wear it with something as casual as a polo shirt though. A nice long-sleeve button-up is the way to go.

Price & Availability

The price may surprise you. The SBGW301 retails for $4,900. This is quite a bargain, considering it is just as nice, reliable, and accurate as many watches that cost two, three, or four times as much. You get a lot for your money from Grand Seiko.

You can pick up a brand-new model from a Grand Seiko boutique or their website. These beauties are also available from a Grand Seiko authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. If you’re in the neighborhood, stop by our Naples, FL, boutique to try one on.

You can also order one from our website. We offer free domestic shipping, and as an AD, you will receive Grand Seiko’s five-year warranty. Whether you visit in person or online, our knowledgeable and friendly sales staff will be happy to assist you.

Should you decide to take a look at the preowned market, you won’t have any trouble finding a 301 for between $3,500 and $4,500.

Conclusion

Casual is nice. Casual is comfortable. But sometimes, ya gotta dress up a bit. Having the right watch is the finishing touch to a stylish and elegant outfit. Grand Seiko does dress watches well, and with its neutral colorway, small case, elegant, vintage lines, accuracy, and Grand Seiko reliability, you owe it to yourself to take a look at the SBGW301.

Okay, listen up, people. Today, we are going to learn about a small, sometimes overlooked, but extremely important part of a mechanical watch. Some of the less horologically educated among you may call it a “winder” or “that twisty thing on the side”. Like every other part of a watch, it has a proper name. It is called the crown, and, as you will see, that’s a fitting name. 

The crown is easy to spot on a watch. It’s usually a round knob and generally found at the 3 o’clock position. This makes it easy to wind for a right-handed person because they can hold the case in their left hand and wind with the right. 

By the way, never wind or set your watch while it’s on your wrist. You could easily bend the stem of the crown and cause damage that can be pretty expensive to have fixed.

There are watches with the crown at 9 o’clock. These are left-handed watches for obvious reasons. Some right-handed people like them, too, because they don’t have to deal with the crown digging into the back of their left hand while bending it. Lefties are not common, but they are out there.

Watches with crowns at 4 o’clock also exist. In fact, there are even two and three-crown timepieces. You won’t have any trouble identifying the crown. Let’s take a look at how they function.

How Watch Crowns Work

The crown is technically part of the movement and the only part of it that you can touch. Its main function is to wind the mainspring, which is what powers a mechanical watch. You turn the crown clockwise until you feel resistance. On most watches, this is about 30-40 turns, which means the mainspring is fully wound.

The crown is attached to a stem that runs through the case into the movement. A system of gears engage when the crown is turned and wind the spring. The crown performs other functions as well.

Displaying the correct time is essential to a watch. The crown will have a position that allows you to turn the crown to move the hands forward or back to set the time. On a basic three-hand watch with no complications, there will only be one position. 

Pull out to set the time, push back when you’re done. Many watches have a hacking function that stops the second hand when the crown is pulled out. This allows you to synchronize your watch to the exact time. I like to set mine using my cell phone.

Watches with complications such as date, day of the week, GMT, or moonphase have added positions to allow you to set them with the crown. 

For example, you pull out to the first position to set the date. Some watches change the date when you turn in one direction and a different complication, such as the GMT hand or the day of the week when you turn in the other. 

A handy feature some watches have is a position that just moves the hour hand. I have this on my Omega Seamaster, and it’s great when you travel to a different timezone or have to adjust to semi-annual time changes. 

Watches that have more than one crown assign a different function to each crown rather than having multiple positions. 

The crown of a watch also adds to its aesthetics. It will be designed to match the case, style, and type of watch. There are usually grooves to make it easy to grip. Some crowns have a precious stone on them to bling the timepiece up a bit. Now that we know about the many functions of a crown let’s see how they evolved. It didn’t happen overnight. 

History of Watch Crowns

There was a time before crowns existed. Pocket watches were wound with a key that was inserted into the dial or case. If you’ve ever seen an antique clock, you know what that looks like. This was inconvenient for a watch because if you left the key at home or lost it, you could not wind or reset your watch.

A watchmaker in England, John Arnold, is credited as the first to find a solution to this problem. He placed a knob on a pocket watch that could wind the mainspring. Later, in 1830, the legendary Antoine-Louis Breguet refined Arnold’s mechanism, which allowed it to be used on smaller watches, such as those worn on the wrist.

A decade or so later, in France, Jean Adrien Phillipe, co-founder of Patek Philippe, developed a sliding pinion that brought the crown closer to the modern one we know today. It allowed for different positions and multiple functions. 

We should note that the crown didn’t always have such a regal name. It was originally called a knob. Not so elegant but over time, watchmakers noted that the shape resembles the headwear of royalty. That coupled with the fact that on pocket watches, the crown sat at 12 o’clock or on the “head” of the case, and the familiar moniker of crown was applied and stuck for good. 

As newer complications were developed and added to watches, the crown was further developed to allow the wearer to set these features. Several different types of crowns were also invented. 

Types of Watch Crowns

There is more than one type of watch crown, and if you have even a small collection, you probably own watches with more than one type. These types were created to serve different purposes in various watch types.

Screw-Down Crowns

My favorite type of crown is the screw-down. As the name implies, the base of the crown is threaded, and it screws down into the case. This creates a seal that is essential to high-water resistance timepieces such as divers. If the crown doesn’t screw down, it’s not a dive watch. A screw-down crown is a highly desirable feature, even if you don’t plan to wear your watch in water. 

The screw-down also keeps dust and other debris from getting into your movement and damaging it. Screw-down crowns have multiple positions on watches with complications, and you must unscrew them to pull the crown out before winding or setting.

Push-Pull Crowns

The most basic type of crown is the push-pull. It simply pulls out and pushes back in with no unscrewing necessary. These are typically found on dress watches because of their simple and elegant design. They will have multiple positions if necessary and are easy to use.

Recessed Crowns

Recessed crowns sit down partly in the case. This gives the watch clean lines and a pretty aesthetic. You also don’t have to worry about the crown digging into the back of your wrist. The downside is that they can be tricky to turn, and that may get a little annoying.

Multiple Crowns

As mentioned earlier, there are watches with more than one crown. Two-crown watches generally have them located at 2 and 4 o’clock, while three-crowns have them at two, three, and four. The extra crowns perform the function of adjusting other complications making fewer crown positions necessary. 

There are other knobs or buttons you may see protruding from a watch case that are not actually crowns. As I look down at my wrist, I see one now. The infamous helium escape valve on the Omega Seamaster. 

Its purpose is to let helium escape from the case on extended saturation dives, which makes it not at all necessary for the vast majority of watch lovers. Many people hate it, but I think it adds to the cool factor.

Chronographs usually have buttons at 2 and 4 o’clock that start and stop the stopwatch and reset it, respectively. I have a multi-function watch with this same setup. It’s a quartz movement, so it needs no winding. The crown sets the time, and the two buttons advance dials display the day and date. 

How Important is a Watch Crown?

The importance of a watch crown cannot be overstated. If you can’t wind the mainspring on a mechanical watch, when it stops, it’s useless. Even an automatic needs to be wound from time to time.

Setting the time is always a necessity. Even the most accurate mechanical timepieces gain or lose a bit of time each day. Eventually, that means a reset, and switching to and from Daylight Savings Time means adjusting your watch with the crown. Unless you have a GMT, you need to adjust your watch when traveling to different time zones. 

A date complication needs to be adjusted at the end of every month with less than 30 days. The functions of this tiny part of a watch are essential to its usefulness. Sure, you could avoid all this with a smartwatch, but where’s the fun in that?

Conclusion

A watch is a complex piece of mechanical engineering with many moving parts. Some you can’t see, and some you can. Most will only ever be touched or repaired by your friendly neighborhood watchmaker. 

The crown, small though it is, is your opportunity to adjust, power, and interact with your precious wrist babies. The next time you wind your watch, take a moment to appreciate all that your crown does for you.

The character and culture of different nations are often on full display in the products they produce. Certainly, this is true of Japan, where companies and employees show great pride in their work and strive for the highest levels of quality and consistency. The reverence of nature that is so integral to the soul of the nation is present as well.

The Swiss have centuries of watchmaking excellence that earned their place at the top of the world of horology. But Grand Seiko more than deserves to be in the conversation. The Japanese brand consistently releases new models in new collections noted for their beauty, accuracy, and reliability. They combine the heritage of the past with the innovations of the future. Let’s take a good look at the Grand Seiko SLGA021 Lake Suwa.

History

Grand Seiko never rests on its laurels, and in 2020, it released the Evolution 9 Collection. It was so named because the watches in the collection represented an evolution in aesthetics, legibility, and style. The number “9” is the highest single-digit number and represents the highest level of quality.

The timepieces in the collection include divers, chronographs, and sporty, smart casual watches. One of the best-looking, in my humble opinion, is the SLGA021. Called the Lake Suwa because the dial was inspired by the pastoral body of water that sits near Grand Seiko’s studio in Japan’s Kiso Mountains, this is a watch every lover of fine timepieces should take a good look at.

Case

The 40 mm round case is made from high-intensity stainless steel. The surfaces are mostly brushed with very little of Grand Seiko’s trademark Zaratsu polishing. This gives it a more rugged look, which I like. It’s not a blingy watch crying for attention, which gives it plenty of versatility as to what you can wear it with.

The high-intensity steel is lighter than standard stainless which makes for a very nice feel on the wrist. The diameter is right in my wheelhouse for case sizes on my average-sized 7.25-inch wrist. People with smaller wrists will be happy to know that with a 47.6 mm lug-to-lug and 11.7 mm thickness, the watch doesn’t wear big and suits a wide variety of wrist sizes. The only watch lovers who may have a problem are those with beefy wrists approaching  8 inches.

The 3-o’clock crown is a screw-down and big enough to make setting the time easy but not so big as to ruin the aesthetics. The crown and case provide 100 meters of water resistance, making it perfectly safe in the rain, and you could do some surface swimming in it. If you want to explore the depths, there are divers in the collection. 

The scratch-resistance dual-curve sapphire crystal fits in with the sporty elegance of the watch and is coated with anti-reflective material on the inside to let you get a good look at the time in any lighting condition. The exhibition case back is made of the same material with the same coating, so you can enjoy viewing and showing off the movement. 

Dial

If you are even a little familiar with Grand Seiko watches, you will not be surprised when I tell you that the SLGA021 dial is the star of this timepiece. The brand is truly a master when it comes to the color, texture, and response to the light of its dials. 

Grand Seiko has several watches with dials that are inspired by Lake Suwa. The SLGA007 has a blue dial so designed. However, the dial on the SLGA021 is a deeper shade of blue that represents the surface of Lake Suwa just before dawn.

In most lighting situations, the blue is dark, close to navy, but when the sun or other bright light hits the dial, you get flashes of lighter blues. The color is dynamic, which makes this watch one that you will tend to look at for more than just checking the time.

As beautiful as the color is, what puts the dial over the top is the texture. The pattern looks just like lapping waves and ripples on a lake. You owe it to yourself to see the SLGA021 in person if you can. As much as I love my Omega Seamaster, its wave-engraved blue dial can’t hold a candle to Lake Suwa. 

Another aspect of dials that Grand Seiko is renowned for is legibility. The indices and handset are precision-cut stainless steel with brushed surfaces that perfectly complement the case and are easy to see against the blue dial. The 12 o’clock index is a triple baton and the others double with tapering minute and hour hands and a needle second hand.

The Grand Seiko logo and name are displayed in silver at 12 o’clock and match up nicely with the hands and indices. 

The minute track sits around the outer edge and is easy to read with small ticks and slightly larger squares at the five-minute marks. There is a date complication at 3 o’clock with a brushed stainless steel frame. 

The number is a simple black font on a plain white background. Some people have expressed a preference for a date background that matches the dial, but remember, Grand Seiko is all about easy-to-read watches. The white complements the dial and stands out. I think they made the right choice here. 

There is no lume to be found at all. Although not 100% necessary, I like a nice bright lume on my more casual watches. It’s not enough to make me not want to own and wear the SLGA021, but a little lume would have been nice. 

Movement

Grand Seiko’s in-house movements are also innovative and impressive. The SLGA021 is powered by the caliber 9RA2 Spring Drive 38-jewel movement. One of Grand Seiko’s most impressive achievements is this movement, which combines the status of an automatic mechanical movement with the superior accuracy of quartz. 

The movement rates +/- 0.5 seconds per day. Yes, it’s that accurate. Equally impressive is the five-day power reserve. That’s right. You can put the SLGA021 down on Monday, pick it up on Friday, and it will still be running. That is a helluva movement.

Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can take a look at the power reserve indicator on the movement. It’s nothing special, looks-wise. Stainless with the Grand Seiko logo and name in blue, along with the words “5 Days”. I do like the blue needle on the power reserve, though. It pops. 

Straps

The bracelet is made from the same high-intensity stainless steel as the case and has a satin finish to match. It’s a three-link in a unique design. This is my least favorite part of the SLGA021. 

It looks good enough and holds nicely on the wrist with the threefold clasp, but it doesn’t have micro-adjustments. This is a watch that could easily be a GADA, but there is no easy way to adjust the bracelet when your wrist swells and contracts. 

The sizing is done with push pins rather than screws, as you would expect for a watch at this price point. The lug width is a standard 22 mm, which makes the bracelet easy to swap out. The SLGA021 looks good on pretty much any bracelet, leather, or even rubber or silicone straps. You’ve got plenty of options. 

On-Wrist Experience

Thanks to the high-intensity stainless steel, the SLGA021 feels light and comfortable on the wrist. The 40 mm case and 22 mm lug width are on the large side for current Grand Seiko watches. Unless your wrist is very small, it should still look and feel good. The 11.7 mm thickness will fit under most shirt cuffs, making it a watch that can be worn by everyday wearers and work with casual to smart casual outfits.

You could wear it with a suit, but if you’re dressing to the nines, you might want to go with something dressier. The Lake Suwa is more for dressing to the sevens or less. A button-up casual or dressy shirt, polo, or sport jacket, with slacks, chinos, or jeans, will pair well with this watch for a sharp look. You could also wear it with shorts and a nice T-shirt.

Colorwise, the sky’s the limit. Dark blue is a neutral color, and so are the stainless steel surfaces. You really can wear the SLGA021 with any color you may have in your wardrobe. That’s a nice accessory to have. 

My color palette is mainly black, grays, dark blues, and greens. This watch works beautifully with any of them. I don’t wear hot colors like reds or pinks, but I could see it providing a nice contrast to those.

Price & Availability

If you are intrigued and thinking about picking up one of these stunning timepieces, you can get one at a Grand Seiko boutique or from their website. An authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces, will also be able to hook you up. 

If you are in the Naples, FL, area, stop by our boutique. You really should see this watch in person. Otherwise, you can order it from our website. You’ll get free domestic shipping, and as an AD, we will give you Grand Seiko’s five-year warranty. 

The SLGA021 retails for $9,300, which is a good price for a quality watch from a prestigious brand. If you want to go the preowned route, you can grab one for between $6,300 and $8,500. 

Conclusion

Grand Seiko has an entire catalog of watches with gorgeous dials. The SLGA021 Lake Suwa takes it up a few levels. Combined with the overall design, the super-accurate movement, and the Grand Seiko status, this is a watch any lover of horology should check out. Once you put it on, you might never take it off. 

The Japanese are proud people who put that pride into everything they make. From cars to electronics, products from the Land of the Rising Sun tend to be reliable, long-lasting, and beautiful. 

This extends to watches as well, and Grand Seiko is at the head of the class. The brand has a long history of excellence in the art and science of horology. Indeed, any true watch aficionado should have a Grand Seiko or two in their collection.

Over the last several years, the brand has been releasing watches with smaller cases that are in line with the classics of the past. There are many watch lovers who seek out cases smaller than 40 mm. 

The SBGY collection has several of these heritage-inspired watches, and one of the most beautiful is the Grand Seiko SBGY013 Omiwatari. Let’s dive in and get a good look at what makes this timepiece so special. 

History

Grand Seiko has been making quality timepieces for more than 140 years. New collections, models, and innovations are always hitting the market as the brand strives to remain at the top of its game. 

In 2020, the SBGY005, the first watch in the collection, was given a limited release of 22 pieces. Grand Seiko followed up with the SBGY007 in 2021, and 2022 saw the introduction of the SBGY013. This is truly among the nicest in not only this collection but also all of the Grand Seiko catalog. 

A dressy watch with a bit of sporty flair, there is a lot to like about the Omiwatari.

Case

The stainless steel case features Grand Seiko’s trademark brushed and Zaratsu-polished surfaces that give it great depth as well as a gorgeous shine. The dimensions are on the smaller side, giving it a classic look. 

The 38.5 mm diameter, coupled with the 43.7 mm lug-to-lug, make it suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes. I tend to prefer cases in the 40-42 mm range on my 7.25-inch wrist, but the SBGY013 suits me well, especially when I want to dress things up a bit. If you are a bigger person with a wrist approaching 8 inches, you will likely find it a bit small.

The Omiwatari is thin enough to easily fit under a shirt sleeve at 10.2 mm. Even the lug width is smaller than the average 19 mm, which adds to the classy look. The crown sits at 3 o’clock and is large enough to make setting and winding easy but still small enough not to throw off the symmetry. The lack of crown guards adds to the clean line of the case.

The crystal is dual-curved scratch-resistant sapphire, and the anti-reflective coating ensures you can easily read the dial in any lighting conditions. The case back is a screw-down and exhibition. A sapphire crystal with the same anti-reflective coating lets you see the movement and show it to your horological friends. 

The water resistance is 30 meters, which will protect the watch in the rain but do not swim in it. 

Although it’s generally the dial that gets most of the focus, you may find yourself checking out the case from time to time. 

Dial

On to the dial, the face of a watch. Grand Seiko does everything well, but their dials take it up a few levels, and the SBGY013 is one of the very best. 

Nature takes a prime position in Japanese culture, and Grand Seiko tends to design its dials as a tribute to natural phenomena. 

Located near Grand Seiko’s works is the beautiful Lake Suwa. This pristine body of water freezes up in the winter, and a ridge of ice develops across the width of the lake. Legend has it the ridge is created by an ice goddess as she walks across the lake. The trail is called the “Omiwatari”, hence the name of this model.

The color is not just an ordinary white but rather a silvery white. When the light hits the dial, you see the same kind of sparkles visible on fresh snow. The texture gives the dial the look of a frozen pond covered by ice ridges. It’s a spectacular design, unlike any other dial I’ve ever seen. 

A dial this beautiful needs the right complementary components. No problem there. The stainless steel baton indices taper toward the center, and there is a double baton at 12 o’clock. As with all of Grand Seiko’s indices, they are precision cut and polished for a shine that complements both the case and the dial. 

The hands are polished stainless steel and narrow to a long point with a shorter point at the back end. The needle seconds hand is tempered blue steel and stands out against the dial as it completes each silky smooth sweep around the dial. 

The Grand Seiko logo is applied in stainless steel at 12 o’clock with the name in black underneath. The words Spring Drive sit at six. On the outer edge of the dial are the simple black ticks of the minute track. In addition to being very pleasant to look at, the dial is easy to read, as it should be on a dress watch. 

Movement

The watch is powered by yet another of Grand Seiko’s specialties. The in-house hand-wound caliber 9R31 Spring Drive 30-jewel movement is incredibly accurate at +/- 15 seconds per month. 

The dual spring barrel and the combination of mechanical and electronic quartz technology keep the seconds hand smoothly sweeping and provide a very generous 72-hour power reserve. 

Need to know how much power you have left and can’t find it on the dial? Have no fear. There is a power reserve indicator on the back of the movement, and thanks to the exhibition case back, you can clearly see it. 

The indicator and the Grand Seiko logo and name are displayed in blue, which stands out nicely against the stainless movement. Attention to detail is yet another Grand Seiko trademark. You won’t have to wind the watch too often but it’s so beautiful, you may want to.

Straps

The SBGY013 comes with a unique nine-link stainless steel bracelet. The links are alternately brushed and polished for a stunning look that fully complements the case. The bracelet closes with a three-fold clasp and push-button release. It’s secure yet comfortable and wraps nicely around the wrist.

There are no micro adjusters, but the links are only 0.7 mm long, so getting a good fit should not be difficult. The bracelet is elegant enough to be worn with a suit but still has enough sportiness to work with more casual attire. 

The drilled lugs make it easy to swap the bracelet out for a strap if you want to make it dressier. A leather or alligator strap looks great on the SBGY013, so you have options.

On-Wrist Experience

So, does this watch wear as good as it looks? With the smaller, thin case, curved lugs, and flexible bracelet, it sits very nicely on the wrist. It’s fairly light and very comfortable. It easily slides under a shirt cuff, and you might forget you are wearing it if not for the temptation to periodically look at this masterpiece.

As to how to style it, the possibilities are nearly endless. White is the ultimate neutral color, and you can wear this dial with suits, jackets, and shirts of any hue. It pairs well with polos, oxfords, or dress shirts with or without ties. 

Some guys will only wear a leather strap with a suit, but I think a nice bracelet looks just as good. Hell, I wear divers with suits, and the SBGY013 is more than dressy enough to hold up with your two or three-piece suits.

The simplicity of the dial makes it easy to read the time at a glance so as not to take your attention away from work or the event you are attending. I find myself sneaking extra peeks. It’s way too nice not to. 

Price & Availability

If you are considering purchasing the incredible SBGY013 Omiwatari, you can get one at a Grand Seiko boutique or from their website. It retails for $9,000. You get a lot for your money and a watch this nice for under 10 grand is a steal.

You can also get an SBGY013 from an authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. You can stop by our Naples, FL, brick-and-mortar store to try one on or pick one up on our website. We offer free domestic shipping, and as an AD, we give you the Grand Seiko 5-year warranty. Our friendly and knowledgeable sales staff is ready to assist you in person or online. 

If you would like to save some money by going the preowned route, you can get a used SBGY013 for between $6,600 and $7,500. 

Conclusion

It can be hard to choose among the many watches available in the horological world. And that’s just the Grand Seiko catalog. If you are looking for a classy dress watch that’s reliable, accurate, stunningly beautiful, and a little sporty, you owe it to yourself to check out the Grand Seiko SBGY013 Omiwatari. It was inspired by a goddess. It’s simply heavenly.