Author: Nina S

The Grand Seiko SBGC251 is a watch with staying power. Once you get some hands-on experience with it like I did, you’ll begin to appreciate all it offers. This is a watch that combines a GMT complication for travel with a sporty chronograph. 

Moreover, the chronograph counters are not presented in your typical 3-6-9 format. The unconventional dial layout is one of its most striking features, along with a lightweight, high-intensity titanium case and sophisticated Spring Drive movement, of course. Before I share what I think about the SBGC251, let’s look at where the design came from.

About The Evolution 9 Series

The SBGC251 was released back in 2022 as part of the Japanese brand’s Evolution 9 Collection, which launched a couple of years earlier. For those who don’t already know, this collection represents one of the biggest launches of the company’s entire history. 

To me, the watches from this series are all wish-list-worthy designs. They capture the traditions and landscapes of the brand’s finest practices. A culture whereby every creation since the company’s founding year of 1967 is inspired by its heritage or the nature surrounding it.

Sometimes Evolution 9 watches take inspiration from the changing seasons throughout the year – maybe a delicate blossom, caught gently floating in the spring breeze or the crisp, white snow-dusted mountains that form a backdrop to the manufacturer’s ateliers. 

Aside from capturing these natural phenomena, the collection is also home to sportier timepieces and travel companions. In fact, the SBGC251 is a combination of both. Its chronograph functions meld with a GMT complication to provide you with a tool that can be worn at the gym, in the office, or when traveling on business. 

The launch of the Evolution 9 Series a few years ago signified characteristics like a curved case, a more robust bracelet, and wider lugs. The brand also decided to make the hands of these watches bolder for greater legibility at night and even created a new font for the numerals on the bezel. All watches within this collection represent an updated version of the familiar Grand Seiko DNA and take inspiration from the original 44GS series.

The SBGC251 Takes Inspirational Cues from the 44GS

The 44GS is the model responsible for shaping the quintessential “Grand Seiko Style” and marked a pivotal point for the brand in terms of its approach to design.

The story goes a little like this. Before the birth of the 44GS watches in 1967, every Grand Seiko watch looked different from the next. While this lack of consistency wasn’t exactly a problem, what the brand wanted to achieve was a watch with a distinctive identity. Grand Seiko wanted to be recognized for an identifiable design language. A young designer had the answer to this.

Taro Tanaka established a new standard for aesthetics that would run through the core of the brand’s catalog like strands of DNA. The criteria gave each watch an instantly recognizable look and a set of features that could be mistaken for no other watch on the market. This grammar of design was known as the “Grand Seiko Style” AKA the 44GS.

The 44GS took its name from the 44GS Calibre, or the 4420 to be more precise. Having led a very successful 50-year run, the design aesthetics that define this look are still as important to Grand Seiko collectors and the brand itself today. 

In fact, you could say it has influenced pretty much every Grand Seiko watch released ever since. The 44GS introduced geometric elements, flat surfaces, angles enhanced by meticulous case finishes, sharp flanks, and geometric silhouettes. Intrigued? We’re going to look at some examples of these design elements in this review of the Grand Seiko SBGC251.

The Case

I mentioned earlier that the Evolution 9 Series, of which the SBGC251 belongs, is inspired by the 44GS and examples of this can be appreciated as you peel back the layers of this design and uncover its hidden details. Uniquely, the Grand Seiko Style can be recognized for its two-dimensional curves and flat surfaces that make up the distortion-free case, lugs, bezel, and case sides of the reference SBGC251. 

Tanaka clearly took a bold step away from the conventional rounded case when developing this set of criteria. Instead, he focussed on inward and outward angles to define the Grand Seiko case and bezel that we have all come to know and love today.

I think these small details are the most important overall. The angles of the case, bezel, and lugs reflect the light in so many different ways on the wrist. In a way, they kind of act as a metaphor for Grand Seiko’s multifaceted skills in craftsmanship. The beautifully carved elements follow through into the hands and hour markers of the dial, perpetuating the brand’s pursuit of perfection.  

Now, make no mistake, this is a large watch. Its 45mm case is crafted from high-intensity titanium – a material that is interchangeable with grade 5 titanium. It sits at a depth of 16.3mm, and from lug tip to lug tip, it measures 52.3mm. There are several 44GS styling elements seen throughout the case. The pointed multi-faceted lug ends with both satin and polished finishes are one example. The polished parts feature the optically smooth mirror finish that is known as Zaratsu polishing.

Earlier, I spoke a little about the period before Tanaka birthed the idea of the Grand Seiko Style. The Japanese brand had already won several awards for precision by the 1960s, but the identity of a Grand Seiko watch case had not yet been established, and this is really where the Zaratsu polishing technique came into play. Tanaka realized very quickly that while Grand Seiko watches were perfect as an individual design, they needed an identity and more brilliance.

Many prototypes were created before reaching the distortion-free, brilliant mirrored finish we all come to associate with the brand today. Zaratsu polishing was the solution to achieving a perfectly flat surface. 

Buffing simply wasn’t enough since it softened the angles that technicians had worked so hard to create. Zaratsu was the missing ingredient in the Grand Seiko recipe. The technique follows the rough buffing and sanding process after a case is carved and sculpted, not to mention stamped with several hundred tonnes of force – a process that requires an expert skill level.

Zaratsu takes the name of a European company that created a special machine by which the case of a watch is polished to an incredibly high standard. The flat surfaces of a case can be polished using this machine by holding it up to the wheel rather than at the side. 

The rotating metal wheel is capped with sandpaper and requires a steady hand and keen eye to achieve its special surface finish. The smallest change in pressure by the hand of the craftsman can change the outcome of the case drastically. Thus, the process requires a significant level of intuition. The process is completed with a final buff, again dependent on the craftsman’s sense of touch.

The case of the Grand Seiko SBGC251 is 100-meter water resistant and is upheld by the help of a Grand Seiko-stamped screw-down crown at 3 o’clock. The crown is executed in a mix of polished and blasted finishes, similar to the buckle logo, while the bezel is sharply knurled to provide an easy grip under the fingertips. This is one of my favorite features in a Grand Seiko watch. 

The finish on the bezel knurling is where you can really appreciate the level of detail in a watch like this, priced at just under the $12k mark. The bezel glides beautifully under a Teflon undercoating, while the top is executed in glossy black color, capped with sapphire glass for a more refined finish. This GMT 24-hour bezel can be used in conjunction with the blue GMT hand to track a third time zone, providing a very handy feature for those having to gauge time zones for business purposes.

The Dial

The hands and hour markers on the dial of the Grand Seiko SBGC251 shine like a diamond. They enhance legibility to no end. Compare this to a simple handset from a Tissot, for example, and the difference is noticeable. The sharp, angular sword-shaped hands entice light to play along their edges while at the same time utilizing flat surfaces for maximum impact. Grand Seiko has done well in creating a highly legible dial by night, too. 

The application of the luminous material on the hands and hour markers can’t be faulted. The pill-shaped hour markers illuminate in a rich green glow, as do the main hands, while the triangular tip on the GMT hand and the 24-hour bezel boast a vibrant blue emission.

The constant seconds on the left side of this handcrafted dial is accompanied by a 30-minute chronograph sub-dial at 1:30, chronograph hours counter at 4:30, and a handy power reserve indicator nestled between 7 and 8 o’clock. 

In other Grand Seiko reviews, we’ve talked about the appeal of the power reserve indicator and the brand’s decision to relocate it to the back of the case in some of the company’s Seasons Collection watches, like the White Birch. I feel that this design looks in proportion to the rest of the dial. I love the unconventional location of the sub-dials in this watch. They’re not only quirky but give the dial a technical look too.

The Movement

It is the movement of this Grand Seiko watch that fascinates me. For its price point, it offers great visual depth through a see-through caseback. You can quite easily become entranced with the Spring Drive movement and its level of finishing. It’s incredibly impressive. Grand Seiko’s technology is nothing short of beautiful.

The Calibre 9R36 is one of the world’s most accurate chronographs. With the ability to measure elapsed time to the nearest fraction of a second, this Grand Seiko chronograph is perfect for calculating speed and distance. It promises an accuracy of +15 seconds a month, or -1 second a day, and comprises 50 jewels for a smooth performance. 

The Spring Drive movement works with the use of the Tri-synchro regulator and a thermo-compensator to check for temperature fluctuations throughout the day. A quartz crystal regulates an electromagnetic braking system, combining mechanical and quartz-powered benefits in one design. The Spring Drive Calibre 9R36 inside the SBGC251 watch offers a power reserve of 72 hours and is what gives the seconds hand an effortless gliding motion.

The Strap

The lug width of the Grand Seiko SBGC251 measures 23mm, and the bracelet is crafted from the same high-intensity titanium as seen on the case. If you take a closer look at the shoulders of the links, you’ll see a nice, polished finish, which I think is what elevates the timepiece to a dressier aesthetic so perfectly. 

The top of the links boasts a satin effect for added contrast against the polished edges, while pins and sleeves are used for the construction of the bracelet. It’s what we tend to see in all titanium bracelets made by Grand Seiko. Several holes are drilled in pairs on the clasp to offer anchoring points for re-sizing.

The titanium buckle has a single-fold design with a twin-trigger release mechanism. The logo is also done very tastefully on the buckle. It’s a nice mix of polished and sandblasted finishes, which I feel enable it to stand out crisply. The lugs of the case have strap tool holes, which easily dismount the strap or bracelet when using a strap tool.

Generally speaking, these are rare in watches within this price bracket on the Swiss market. The fact that Grand Seiko makes strap changes so simple and easy is an added bonus. You can change the aesthetic of the reference SBGC251 simply by changing the band, depending on whether you want something sporty, classic, or dressy. I love this about Grand Seiko watches. A watch that easily transforms with a quick strap change is surely great value for money, right?

How It Wears

The SBGC251 measures a broad 45mm diameter, and while the lightweight titanium material of the case compensates for its heftiness, it is still a large watch. If your wrist measures 6.25 inches, you may struggle to carry this watch off aesthetically. Larger than 6.25-inch wrists, however, shouldn’t have too much of a problem. If you love the watch but you’re unsure whether your wrist can pull it off, you’d be better off switching out its titanium bracelet for a leather band.

The watch carries some thickness too, so it won’t easily slip under every cuff. Worn with a jacket, however, this Grand Seiko watch really comes into its own. In fact, I’d go as far as to say the watch was made for the jacket-wearing type of collector. Does it look good with a leather jacket? It certainly does. A bomber jacket? Absolutely. 

That said, you can easily go more casual with this Grand Seiko watch too. The black dial and baby blue GMT hand lend themselves to a very versatile wardrobe. On the whole, this is an aggressive, sporty model with multifunctional uses, so it makes sense that Grand Seiko made it versatile enough to wear in different attires.

A thinner case would make this watch fit a little better, but all in all, there is plenty to love about this watch and very little to nitpick at. So long as you have the wrist size to carry it, this Grand Seiko watch is ergonomically designed for comfort, style, and functionality. It’s the kind of watch I would easily place inside the “wear-it-till-you’re-dead” bracket, and that’s mainly due to its classic black design, useful complications, and lightweight construction.

The Price

While for many, a Rolex is the ultimate grail and is considered by many as one of life’s greatest accomplishments, Grand Seiko offers something that a Rolex simply cannot – affordability.  The SBGC251 is priced at $11,400 at Exquisite Timepieces and gives you plenty of bang for your buck. 

Not only does the watch offer an in-house movement and a multi-complication design (a combined GMT function and chronograph dial), but its Zaratsu case polishing is a genuine handcraft that takes years to master and hours to complete. You’d struggle to find a watch with a similar level of hand-applied execution as this for the same price point.

Conclusion

The familiar design language of the Evolution 9 Series by Grand Seiko is something that can either be amped up or diluted down depending on the design. The sculpted nature of the watch really impresses me, and it’s something that I’ll always remember about the design, having had some hands-on time with it. Sure, the watch certainly wasn’t made for my female wrist. 

But I can certainly appreciate the kind of “wear it ‘til the end” design that a sports watch collector may be looking for. The GMT function is going to come in handy whether you travel frequently or just want to track friends and family in another time zone and want to schedule a quick phone call.

I very easily (and quite quickly) grew a fondness and respect for the SGBC251. As so often is the case, I barely realize I have, until the time comes to hand it back over. Though I can’t carry its proportions on my wrist, it offers everything a male collector needs in a daily beater. Functionality, reliability, and style.  

It’s the kind of watch that you could easily forget you’re wearing but in a good way. At the same time, it’s still an interesting enough design to keep one’s watch enthusiasm alive. You can check it out in some more detail here at Exquisite Timepieces.

The Grand Seiko SBGJ239 came to us in the same year as COVID-19. Picture it, in the height of all that uncertainty and disruption to daily life, one thing remained a given for the watch-collecting community – people still loved watches. In fact, collectors were buying more of them than ever before. They suddenly found themselves with more time on their hands, fewer travel expenses, and more opportunities to expand their luxury watch collection.

One watch that aficionados weren’t having to grapple with their conscience over was the SBGJ239. It was a sleek, glossy GMT that could quite easily double up as a casual-come-sporty dress watch. Ok, so maybe those investing in it weren’t too concerned about what social outing they could wear it to first. Nor were they considering where they’d take it on their travels. The world was a different place at that moment, after all. Did this stop the Seiko Sport GMT watch from making many people happy that year? No, it did not. And the same can still be said today. It’s still a green GMT on a leather strap. It’s still ultra-reliable, impressively robust, and very accurate. It’s still beautiful.

Join me as I cover an in-depth view of the SBGJ239, which currently retails for $6,600 at Exquisite Timepieces.

History and Highlights of the Seiko Sport

Before we go into any great detail reviewing this classic-looking Seiko Sport GMT Green watch, let’s take a brief look at Grand Seiko’s history. The origins of the company will put some meat on the bones of the SBGJ239’s design and serve you with some background and depth in understanding its influence on the travel watch genre. The SBGJ239 is a functional, practical all-rounder. The travel tool carries some important GS hallmarks but has also been serving as a benchmark for other manufacturers to take inspiration from since 2020. The tales of the Japanese watchmaker’s legacy and craftsmanship are intricately interwoven into its fabric. Each model may offer a set of unique features, yet all are instantly identifiable as a Grand Seiko.

The history of Grand Seiko spans all the way back to 1881 when Kintaro Hattori founded Seikosha – a clock and watchmaking business that grew from a small repair workshop in Tokyo. But it was always Hattori’s ambition to create a series of watches that were altogether more refined, high-end, and exquisite. The Grand Seiko series launched in 1960, following Seiko’s global success for over 6 decades. It captured the essence of horological perfection, both in design, style, and mechanical performance. The first watch came with a 45-hour power reserve, a hacking mechanism, and a two-phase regulator mechanism. Together, these features astounded collectors, representing next-level craftsmanship and raising the bar for global competition.

The second generation of the Grand Seiko was the date-setter, and boy, did that give collectors a glimpse into what was to come. Its manual movement was the most accurate in the world. GS then ventured into quartz movements throughout the 1980s, followed by focussing its efforts on the Spring Drive movements during the 80s and 90s. Little did Grand Seiko experts know it would take two decades to perfect this horological innovation. Was it worth the wait? Definitely so. The groundbreaking feat paved the way for the Hi-Beat, which now powers watches like the SBGJ239.

In 2017, the brand became a fully-fledged independent brand, and with that came a fleet of beautifully crafted timepieces designed in line with the company’s Evolution 9 concept. Some of these include the famous “Snowflake”, the “Omiwatari”, the “White Birch”, and the “Annual Rings” models. Some of these examples showcase exquisite dial textures that evoke the beauty of nature and the transitioning seasons of the year.

A Review of the Seiko SBGJ239

The Grand Seiko SBGJ239 belongs to the company’s Sports watch collection. Of course, being a sports watch, it delivers qualities of robustness, legibility, and accuracy by the bucketload. This collection is abundant in dive watches, GMTs, and chronographs. Amongst the collection are references like the SBGA461 dive watch, with a solid 44.2mm steel case, a black dial, a matching black bezel, and a Spring Drive movement. Also, the reference SBGH289, which was a little smaller in size and powered by an automatic movement.

GMT watches by Grand Seiko, however, are some of the most enticing options within the brand’s Sport watch category. They appeal to those who travel frequently, as well as those who just love the style and the complications. Many of the models from this sector are powered by a standard automatic movement, but in 2021, Grand Seiko released a 55th-anniversary edition, complete with a Hi-Beat 36,000 movement. In addition to this white-dialed titanium version, GS also released a non-Hi-Beat version measuring 40.5mm with a blue sunburst dial and red GMT hand for enhanced legibility.

Then came the ref SBGJ247, with a stunning sunburst green dial, followed by a watch similar to the one I’m reviewing today. The ref SBGJ237 is a 44.5mm steel model with a 55-hour power reserve, a 24-hour scale, a deep blue dial, a white bezel, and a five-link stainless steel bracelet. Aside from a few differences in the color choice of the bezel, dial, and hands, this reference and the SBGJ239 are almost identical. The watch we’re looking at today, however, comes fitted on a stylish brown alligator leather band, giving it a traditional and classic feel.

The Case

The Grand Seiko Hi-beat GMT SBGJ239 is 44.2mm in diameter and boasts a hand-finished stainless steel case. The finely polished highlights offer a smooth and clean finish and are courtesy of the brand’s distinctive Zaratsu polishing technique. The case is 14.6mm thick, and lug to lug, the watch measures 50.8mm. The spacing between the lugs is 21mm.

Artisans at GS hold the case of the watch against a spinning tin plate so that it is milled to perfection. It achieves this beautiful execution which takes around three years to master. You can see in the finish of the SBGJ239’s case that this high polish gives the watch a refined and elevated execution. This is an optically smooth, mirror-like finish that accentuates the complex curvature of the case. The swell that occurs mid-case on this watch is what gives it a voluptuous and full-bodied profile. The watch also benefits from a transitional bezel that brings an added dimension to the case. The tapering lugs are a touch I really like. They bring the case into more manageable proportions. Satin finishes also give the watch some nice contrast.

I have to talk about the 72-click bezel of this watch because it’s unlike anything else in the brand’s catalog. Polished on top but satin finished on the sides, it boasts a striking two-tone 24-hour scale, capped with sapphire crystal that shields it from impact, along with a polished steel trim. The sapphire surface is what gives this watch a truly mesmerizing glossy sheen, which almost makes it perfect for doubling up as a dress watch. The watch is also 200-meter water resistant, not to mention resistant to magnetic forces up to 4,800 A/m.

The Dial

The dial of the Grand Seiko SBGJ239 is one of its most appealing characteristics. It’s a deep forest green color that sometimes looks moss-like in certain lights. In the usual Grand Seiko style, the central hour and minute hands, along with the hour markers and date frame, are all micro-finished by diamond-tipped milling tools to give them a crisp, razor-shape finish. They boast a combination of polished and satin finishes, communicating that all-important artisanal finish that GS is so well-known for.

I particularly love these elevated finishes. They are clean and sharp, enabling the key features to stand out with legibility. One of the nicest features of this sports watch is the 10-beat second hand. Similar to the alluring sweeping second hand of the Spring Drive movement, it also travels across the dial in a smooth and flowing motion. Made up of many little steps, you can barely see any jolting with the naked eye. The date features at 4 o’clock. Adjustments can be made to it very easily via the crown without affecting the running time. This is genius craftsmanship for Grand Seiko, who clearly understands the importance of this feature when traveling.

The red GMT hand also stands out with legibility, reading from a 24-hour scale on the bezel. Other finishing touches include the Grand Seiko lettering and logo at 12 o’clock and the red lettering of the GMT reference above 6 o’clock.

The Movement

The Grand Seiko SBGJ239 is powered by a Hi-Beat movement, which promises exceptional accuracy and efficiency. Its design and arrangement build on the foundations of the first Hi-Beat movement launched many years ago. Let’s take a brief look at the history of the Hi-Beat.

Grand Seiko’s expertise in manufacturing the Hi-Beat movement harks all the way back to the 1960s. In 1968, the brand released the Calibre 6145. This was the birth of the first Hi-Beat movement, delivering better efficiency and accuracy. Part of that was down to the oscillating weight, which Grand Seiko specialists equipped with the “Magic Lever” system – a proprietary winding mechanism with a pawl winding system that had been produced a few years earlier. The movement was implemented into the design of the Grand Seiko 61GS – a flagship model that lasted 7 years in production and came in many variations. The principles of the design, however, were shared throughout the series, with either a date or day-date display at 3 o’clock, a distinctive tonneau-shaped case made from steel, gold-capped steel, or 18k gold, and a 3 o’clock crown. The watch was even chosen for the Osaka Time Capsule Expo a couple of years after its release.

Next came the Calibre 6185, another Hi-Beat movement with a +1 minute accuracy per month, a horological feat that was later dubbed the “Grand Seiko V.F.A. Standard”. For the record, it was already exceeding chronometer certification at this point. To reach this standard, specialists at Grand Seiko were subjecting the watches to rigorous tests over 6 positions (rather than the standard 5) and were conducting these tests over 15 days to meet a criteria of +2 seconds a day. Two years later, the company launched a new version of the movement, complete with a day-date complication.

While all this was happening, however, Grand Seiko was busying itself creating the 45GS watch, also powered by the 10-Beat (Hi-Beat) movement. This time, the movement was much thinner, featuring a manual winding mechanism. The Caliber 4522 had a calendar display with an instant date, while the Caliber 4520 was a time-only version. The 45GS had an accuracy of 1+ minutes per month, making it a groundbreaking revelation for its time.

But what is it about the Magic Lever that makes the Hi-Beat movement so efficient, you ask? Well, put simply, the 1959 Magic Lever system improves winding system efficiency by shortening the winding period and also increasing the power reserve. With a Magic Lever system, the ratchet wheel rotates in any desired direction no matter which way the oscillating weight is turned, thus greater energy saving is achieved.  

The SBGJ239 watch is powered by the modern Calibre 9S86, which delivers an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day. Its accuracy is integral to the GMT watch’s design, ensuring that when you track this watch in another country, home time and local time run synonymously alongside one another. The Calibre 9S86 operates as a true GMT or a “traveler” GMT watch, enabling you to pull the crown out to the first position and change the hour hand while you’re on the go. It’s the most efficient variant of the GMT since you can quickly switch the main hands to your current local time easily without disrupting the GMT hand.

The Hi-Beat 36000 is the movement responsible for this. It performs at a staggering frequency of 36,000 oscillations per hour, which is equivalent to 10 beats per second (hence the 10-Beat nickname). On top of that, it also gives you a solid 55-hour power reserve for weekends when you might want to alternate it with another favorite.

The Strap

It’s worth mentioning that the brown alligator leather strap of the GS SBGJ239 watch is a little squeaky and will likely take some time to break in, but I don’t mind that. I’ve always said that so long as the leather band on a watch is of good quality, waiting for the leather strap to break in is a small and very insignificant compromise. Sure, you may be aware of the watch’s presence on your wrist for a few weeks. Once the leather becomes more supple, however, and starts to curve to the natural contours of the wrist, this watch should sit like a dream, and you’ll barely remember you’re wearing it. Again, the classic leather band option is less dressy and less sporty than a steel bracelet but I like that it constitutes a more relaxed option for pairing with weekend attire should you want to.

The lug-width is 21mm, so it’s not the most common of sizes to find configurations for. That said, I have a feeling you’ll be happy to settle with the original band for quite some time. The strap comes with a beautifully refined three-fold clasp made from stainless steel and is engraved with the iconic Grand Seiko logo. I also like how the push button release mechanism is butter-smooth to operate under the fingertips. It’s one less thing to have to fuss over when you want to make a quick watch swap.  The brown alligator leather strap, with a smooth calfskin lining, also has lovely tone-on-tone stitching in a matching chocolate brown color, which I think complements the green nuances of the dial really nicely.

How It Wears

Here’s one of the most important parts of the review to cover. It’s great when a watch ticks all the boxes on paper, but understanding how this watch wears on the wrist is equally as important. Let me start by saying this watch (though it’s a broad and confident size on top) wears smaller than you think. That’s all because of how Grand Seiko has developed this case. If you view the watch laterally, you can see a significant difference between the top and bottom of the case structure. The case of the SBGJ239 bellies out with a sloped case design.

If you have a 6-7 inch wrist, you’re probably going to be maxed out with this watch, though it won’t look out of place by any means. Because of its depth, you might struggle to fit this watch under a shirt sleeve, but, as I said earlier, this watch sits somewhere between a dress watch and a sports watch, so you wouldn’t necessarily be looking to pair this watch with elegant attire on a daily basis.

Pricing:

For an in-house movement (not to mention a Hi-Beat), a hand-finished case, a flawlessly operating GMT function, and quality materials like a leather strap and sapphire crystal – the SBGJ239 is an absolute steal at $6,600. If you want to enquire about the availability of this watch and you’re ready to place an order, don’t forget to drop us a message here at Exquisite Timepieces.

The Takeaway

There are many things to love about the Grand Seiko SBGJ239. Considering the watch has been out since 2020, no model has ever really superseded it on a like-for-like level. The watch boasts a selection of superior materials, a legible GMT function, and a striking two-tone bezel for optimal efficiency.

This is a GMT function that proves incredibly useful for hopping from time zone to time zone, whether that be for business or leisure. GS manages to balance sporty elegance with some really nice dress-like features, making for a timepiece that you can wear pretty much every day, regardless of the different situations you may encounter.

This is a bold watch with an equally bold personality, and I love the use of the deep subdued green dial, paired with the striking red of the GMT hand. Without a doubt, this watch can go from a formal meeting to drinks at the bar without looking out of place, and that’s what a lot of Grand Seiko watches are good for. They make great travel partners, sophisticated business partners, and elegant companions all wrapped into one.

The Grand Seiko SLGA008 “Annual Rings” watch is a 140th-anniversary limited edition Spring-Drive-powered collectible and one of my absolute favorites. Read on to see why I love this watch so much and how the evolution of Grand Seiko as a brand has influenced its flawless design.

It is true that some of the most beautiful things in life come in small doses, and the Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Annual Rings” SLGA008 watch is the perfect example of one of them. Just 140 models of this kind were released back in December 2021, celebrating 140 years of the Seiko Watch Corporation. 

For those of you who don’t know, Grand Seiko belonged to Seiko before becoming completely independent in 2017. The move made perfect sense since GS has always been distinct in its design language, its characteristics, and its presentation. 

Becoming an entity of its own enabled the brand to pitch itself much higher than Seiko in the market. It paved the way for watches like the “Annual Rings” anniversary watch, complete with a dial that carefully balances light and dark nuances across yet another nature-inspired dial. 

As with any Grand Seiko watch from the popular Evolution 9 series, there’s a lot to unpack. But to appreciate the watch that honors the heritage of this Japanese brand in more ways than one, we must step back to the very beginning.

The Foundations of Grand Seiko

When you think about it, Grand Seiko is a relatively young brand. Some of the most prestigious names in the industry have been around for over 200 years. Take, for example, Blancpain, which was founded in 1735. The company is still in operation and remains the oldest registered watchmaker in history, closely followed by Vacheron Constantin, of course. 

The Geneva watchmaker has a tapestry of beautiful instruments under its belt, including the Overseas and the Traditionelle, and belongs to the “Holy Trinity” of Haute Horlogerie alongside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. And how about Breguet? The Maison can lay claim to the first wrist-worn watch, commissioned by the Queen of Naples back in 1810.

Looking at some of the oldest watchmakers in the world, their stories derive from innovations like the pocket watch. Not Grand Seiko, though. The Japanese brand originates from a country steeped in watchmaking history but one where traditions merge with futuristic revelations like the quartz movement and the Spring Drive (I’ll get to that bit shortly). Grand Seiko’s story is a relentless pursuit of excellence and innovation, and a huge part of appreciating models like the GS SLGA008 requires a look at the company’s evolution and how its impeccable Spring Drive came to be.

The roots of Grand Seiko stem from the district of Ginza in Tokyo, where Kintarō Hattori founded Seiko in 1881. By the 1950s, Seiko was making huge waves internationally. And while the brand became a go-to for affordable and highly accurate wristwatches during the 1960s, Seiko had other bold ambitions. It wanted to create something altogether more refined and exquisite. A series that would come to define the pinnacle of Japanese watchmaking. 

Grand Seiko arrived and captured the essence of horological perfection. Its liberating designs showed the world it was here to lead, not to follow. The company’s birth in 1960 spawned the Hi-Beat movements, promising greater accuracy with a performance of 10 beats per second. But that was not the end of the brand’s horological endeavors. In fact, it was just the beginning…

The Grand Seiko Quartz Astron exemplified a new-found efficiency in timekeeping in 1969. It was the first watch in history to be powered by a quartz movement. The Caliber 35A differed drastically from the mechanical movement, requiring the use of a small electrical charge generated by a battery as opposed to a coiled mainspring. 

The vibrational frequency of the quartz crystal that received this battery’s charge, so profound, superseded that of the mechanical oscillator, vibrating at a frequency of 32,768 times per second as opposed to a mechanical’s 3 or 4 times per second. The efficiency of the quartz movement soon took off, sending many traditional Swiss manufacturers into turmoil. Many succumbed to the crushing effect of the crises, with quartz not only proving cheaper and faster to produce but also more accurate.

The Pathway to the Spring Drive

The Spring Drive movement by Grand Seiko features many covetable timepieces in the brand’s catalog today. Some examples include the “Omiwatari”, inspired by the snow-dusted landscape surrounding the company’s watchmaking facilities, and the frozen lake phenomenon across Lake Suwa near Shiojiri. Also, the “White Birch” watch is influenced by the birch highland forests that surround the Grand Seiko studios. The movement is also featured in the SLGA008 “Annual Rings” watch.

The origins of the Spring Drive were in the making long before these models arrived, however. Work started on the innovations at Seiko back in 1977, which, for me, is what makes the movement so special. This was no flippant overnight “fad”. Seiko specialists wanted this movement to be the ultimate benchmark setter in precision and efficiency for years to come. 

It was neither mechanical nor quartz but a masterful blend of both. This fusion of mechanical and quartz engineering played an integral role in modern watchmaking. Pretty soon, Grand Seiko’s signature sweeping second hand became a fascination for collectors. It took more than 15 years to perfect the movement, and it was 2004, by the time the first GS watch came outfitted with one.

The Grand Seiko movement uses the “Tri-Synchro Regulator” to control the mainspring as it unwinds and converts this energy into electricity. The electricity then powers a quartz oscillator. All the while, the smooth continuous gliding motion of the graceful second hand across the dial is all that the wearer sees – a harmonious blend of innovation and tradition. 

Since its birth, the Spring Drive movement has become a philosophical statement of excellence and a standard by which many other rival companies can only aspire to achieve.

A Review of the Grand Seiko SLGA008 “Annual Rings”

Personally, I feel like the SLGA008 has a lot to offer the modern watch enthusiast. As with all Grand Seiko watches, the case finishes, execution of the movement, and meticulously crafted dial are all next level. It doesn’t mean to say that every GS watch is met with such resounding success. In the past, the company has been accused of creating boring designs that don’t stand out enough. 

But I can’t quite see how anyone with a penchant for collecting quality wristwatches could look at a Grand Seiko design and feel that it looked similar to anything else on the market. These are not boring designs. As is always the case, the beauty is in the finer details – details that only a true connoisseur can appreciate once they look beyond its face value to see where its true ingenuity lies.

The Case

In terms of wearability, I’d say that the GS ref. SLGA008 watch wearers pretty well. This is a 40mm watch with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm, which is an important part of its dimensions. This is a nice fit for a 6-6.5 inch wrist and wears smaller than its spec list would suggest. 

The lug-to-lug measurement, although it sounds quite large on paper, is relatively understated on the wrist thanks to the warm tones of the 18k rose gold case and the chocolate brown tones of both the dial and the alligator leather strap. 

You have to appreciate that at 47mm, this measurement enables a 40mm watch case to become an accessible option for those with slenderer wrists without testing the edges. Other dimensions include a 12.5mm case depth and a strap width of 22mm.

Now, anyone who collects Grand Seiko watches will tell you that the brand excels in the field of case execution. Its Zaratsu polishing technique is second to none and exclusive to Grand Seiko watches. It’s what elevates these dress watches to the high-end, respectable, and refined timepieces that they are. 

While this is not the most affordable of GS watches (being a limited edition model and a solid gold one at that), the brand does execute all of its cases to the same standard, incorporating the same level of attention to detail in each one. This is just an example of standard practice that the brand willingly offers its audience, constituting great value for money. 

Let’s be fair, these are not the most expensive watches out there, but high-grade finishes on a case like this certainly make them feel like they are.

The SLGA008 is abundant in these high-end finishes.  For example, I really like the way the sides of the bezel are polished, yet the top of the bezel is adorned with a vertical brushed finish. It adds depth and dimension to the design, rather than the dial itself holding all the detail. 

The brushed bezel is an unusual look in a dress watch, especially since a polishing technique is often used to enhance that all-important high-end feel of an elegant timepiece. Other features of the SLGA008 include a 100-meter water resistance and a large prominent crown at 3 o’clock, engraved with the GS logo and finished with a grooved surface to aid grip.

The Dial

I’d be lying if I said the dial of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Annual Rings” SLGA008 watch wasn’t the star of the show. It clearly acts as the portal through which the brand’s artistic flair is expressed. As I mentioned earlier, the watch belongs to the Evolution 9 series, which is no stranger to avant-garde innovations. 

These designs impart the brand’s reverence for nature and Japan’s ephemeral beauty. Whether a crisp snow-covered landscape, a frozen lake phenomenon, a petal from a native flower, or the drifting cherry blossoms of springtime – all Evolution 9 Series watches have their own story to tell. The collection has been going strong since 2020, incorporating the brand’s values known as “Takumi”. 

For those innovating these masterpieces at the GS design studios, the spiritual ideals of “Takumi” are a way of life. They are the company’s values, passed down from one generation to another. Part of that concept underpins the time-honored techniques mastered by the craftsmen to achieve these textured dials.

The dial of the SLGA008 is a rich chocolate brown color, which pairs beautifully with the rose gold elements chosen to echo the material of the case. I love how the inviting gold-colored hour markers have been polished and faceted with precision. They enable light to catch them, enhancing their blush-pink tones against an indulgent brown backdrop. Underneath the 12 o’clock hour marker is the GS name and logo. 

Even the central hour and minute hands have received a beautiful, faceted edge, which enables light to skim over them, creating reflections and shadows wherever possible. The sweeping second hand, a sure sign of that Spring Drive engine, travels over the brand logo effortlessly while protected beautifully under a dual-curved sapphire crystal.

What I like about this dial is that Grand Seiko experts have left it open to interpretation. While there is no denying that its texture beautifully captures the growth rings of an internal tree trunk, the shade of the dial is also reminiscent of coffee or delicious fondant icing on a chocolate cake. 

Whatever this dial does for you, it certainly imparts that all-important sense of indulgence that the company is so revered for. The date window is also trimmed in a rose golden frame, which makes the numerals stand out with more assertiveness.

The Movement

As you’ll already know by now, the Grand Seiko SLGA008 uses the brand’s hybrid quartz-come-mechanical movement – the Spring Drive. The Caliber 9RA2 is an incredibly accurate movement (around half a second a day, to be precise). It belongs to the 9R series and follows on from its predecessor, the 2020 Caliber 9RA5. The 9RA2 was launched by Grand Seiko in 2021 and boasted an impressive 5-day power reserve. 

Thanks to a repositioning of its Magic Lever system, it measures slimmer, while two barrels facilitate a power reserve of 120 hours. This is a great feature for those who have several timepieces that they like to rotate regularly. 

Collectors often refer to watches with ample power reserve capabilities as “weekend-friendly” watches. It means that if you were to take the watch off after work on a Friday and alternate it with another favorite over the weekend, you could return to the watch on a Monday morning to find it had kept the perfect time for you. 

Movements like this also come with an in-built temperature sensor that continually checks for temperature fluctuations while maintaining accuracy to within +/- 10 seconds per month.

If you followed my recent review of the “Omiwatari” watch, you’ll be aware that it shares many characteristics with the “Snowflake” watch, save for the power reserve indicator on the dial. For the “Omiwatari, GS specialists chose to relocate the power reserve indicator to the back of the case, donating more space and clarity to the watch’s beautifully textured dial. 

The “Annual Rings” SLGA008 watch adopts this same design language. You can admire the power reserve indicator through the back of the case while also appreciating the harmonious performance of the Spring Drive in action.

However, if you were to admire the movement much closer through the watch’s sapphire exhibition window, there are even more exquisite details to fall in love with. Grand Seiko artisans execute the bridges and plates in a way that evokes Japan’s natural beauty, its landscape, and its climate. They feature a frosted effect that emulates the snow-covered forests of Shinshu. Similar to how the Zaratsu-polished edges and angles of a Grand Seiko case interact with light, the diamond-cut bridges are a particularly impressive element of the engine, as are the heat-tempered screws and power reserve indicator hand in blue. These are all really nice touches from Grand Seiko – reminders that these are no ordinary dress watches.

The Strap

I think the brown alligator leather strap pairs beautifully with the GS ref. SLGA008 watch’s dial. Quite honestly, I couldn’t imagine this watch on anything other than a brown leather strap or stainless steel bracelet. That said, there are smooth calf leather bands and ostrich leather straps you could outsource that would compliment the watch’s chocolatey brown tones.

If you want to opt for something different here, the key here is to find just the right strap color. You don’t want the beautiful nuances of the brown dial to be lost on a poorly matched band. For me, a classic brown leather strap is perfect on this watch. Grand Seiko pairs it with an 18k rose gold three-fold clasp engraved with the GS lettering and a push-button release mechanism.

The Pricing

The Grand Seiko SLGA008 currently retails for a little under $50k from authorized dealers like Exquisite Timepieces. As one of the most expensive Grand Seiko watches on the market, it begs the question, “Is it worth it?” I’d answer that question pretty simply, a Grand Seiko is worth whatever a collector is willing to pay for it. 

The same goes for pretty much any watch, really. It may not be the rarest of Grand Seiko watches, but you do have to take into consideration that the timepiece is produced in a limited batch, so not everyone will own one. It’s also crafted from 18ct rose gold.

It’s impossible to underappreciate this watch if you’re a keen Grand Seiko fan. The quality of finishing in the case and the detailing of the dial are second to none. The details have a nice change of pace, and the different finishes are impressive, to say the least. 

So, yes, this exclusive watch is worth the price to the right person, and the price simply becomes irrelevant if it’s what you want. Nevertheless, we certainly can’t ignore the fact that it’s one of the pricier models from Grand Seiko’s catalog.

The Takeaway

Grand Seiko arrived on the scene amidst a backdrop where Swiss craftsmanship was seen as the gold standard in accuracy and quality. It changed things up. The reference SLGA008 is just one of many examples of the brand’s pursuit of perfection, but it is one of the most beautiful collectibles to own. 

This watch, along with so many other creations from the company’s “The Nature of Time” concept, captures a moment, transforming tangible, transient natural beauty into a piece of timekeeping art. Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection is home to models that are so much more than just luxury dress watches, and that’s what I love about the SLGA008.

And even beyond aesthetics, these watches are built from the ground up by specialist craftsmen who dedicate thousands of hours to the traditional techniques that define them. The Zaratsu polishing and wave-like dial effect, serving to capture the age rings on the internal trunk of a tree, are all favorite features of mine, and in a way, they personify the evolution of Grand Seiko itself.

Grand Seiko crafts watches like the SLGA008 in an imaginative way. More than anything else, though, it is the band’s solid and steadfast approach to watchmaking that keeps enthusiasts like me so engaged and longing for more.

At a glance, you may be mistaken for thinking that the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SLGH005 and the Spring Drive SLGA009 (released in 2021 and 2022 respectively) are the same watch, albeit for their movements. I thought so too. If that were true, however, this would be one of the shortest articles in history. The SLGH005 has been reviewed many, many times before, and the general consensus is that people love it.

Its high-end spec has been tried and tested on the wrists of avid collectors and has been analyzed to the nth degree, yet seldom can anyone find much to fault about its design. The same can be said for the SLGA009. 

But let’s be clear, this is not the same watch. In this article, I will use this space to outline the uniqueness of the “White Birch” SLGA009 and how it differs from its sister watch, the SLGH005.

Before we get into it, a little on Grand Seiko, the brand itself…

About Grand Seiko

Many don’t know this, but Seiko and Grand Seiko are not the same brand. Both, however, are part of the Seiko Watch Corporation. Here’s where it gets confusing, though. GS (Grand Seiko) was actually part of Seiko at one point. It found its feet as an entity of its own in 2017, enabling it to focus on high-end manufacturing. 

So, while Seiko has always been the Japanese brand associated with quality and affordability, GS fills the gap for those looking for quality luxury. These watches may not hold the same value as a Rolex or AP watch, but they can definitely compete in the same space. GS focuses on in-house movements, crafts unique dials, and even applies its own case finishes.

But if you were wondering what makes Grand Seiko so special, it has to be watches like the “White Birch” that demonstrate the brand’s breadth of skill and technique in classic watchmaking. Those watches offer qualities on par with any reputable Swiss (and sometimes even more). The brand’s movements are just as superior. 

They are ultra-accurate, and that includes the Spring Drive, which gives the second hand that effortlessly gliding motion you see across the dial. Many Grand Seiko watches today nod to some of the brand’s first watches. That can only mean one thing: over the brand’s 50 years of watchmaking, barely anything has had to change, and that’s a really good thing. 

During the 1960s and 1970s, designer Taro Tanaka even created a set of rules called the “Grammar of Designs”. That new design language helped GS watches truly stand out.

Despite ceasing its production of quartz watches in 1975 and being reintroduced as Seiko’s sub-brand back in 1988, Grand Seiko has come a long way. It began specializing in mechanical watches from the year 1998 and has never looked back since. The company’s Spring Drive technology, launched in 2002, promised superior accuracy, putting the brand on the map for its expertise in movement manufacturing. 

Today, watches like the “White Birch” are pillars of the brand’s success. Watches like the SLGA009 are considered to be some of the best in the industry, and you can certainly see why. So, where did the manufacturer get its inspiration from when creating this watch?

The Inspiration Behind the Grand Seiko SLGA009

In the heart of the Shizukuishi region of Japan, white birch trees spearhead the soil that Grand Seiko’s watchmaking studios sit upon. They form a dense forest around the facilities, reaching up to around 40 feet tall. 

The white birch, which grows in abundance there, is also known as the Asian birch and is renowned for its striking white bark. The forest of trees and their white, textured tree trunks create a stark contrast against the unusual landscape here. Blue skies and crisp snow make the scenery look even more graphic and sheer in the winter.

The scene is a slice of unadulterated, minimalist beauty, which I think Grand Seiko experts manage to capture perfectly in the textured dial of this SLGA009 watch. 

Without even needing an introduction here, you can see from the outset that the dial of the “White Birch” is a talking point. It draws the eye in towards its deep furrows, creating a tapestry of contrasting silvery-white shades and shadows that evoke the surface of the bark itself.

The Origins of the Grand Seiko “White Birch”

The heritage of the Grand Seiko “White Birch” Spring Drive watch harkens back to the SLGH005 and, before that, the SLGH002 and SLGH003 models. All these measure a 40mm diameter and sit at a height of 11.8mm on the wrist. If your wrist sits in the 8-inch realm, this is the ultimate “Goldilocks” size for you. 

These watches all take inspiration from the earlier Series 9 watch, which was met with resounding success back in 1967. The Series 9 was designed by Taro Tanaka, who I mentioned earlier. He helped steer the direction and framework that all future GS designs worked to by outlining these simple values.

At the time, when Grand Seiko launched its “White Birch” SLGH005 watch, it marked the first of its kind to be equipped with the then-new automatic Hi-Beat Calibre 9SA5. For those who don’t already know, this engine benefits from the brand’s “10-beat” technology (because it beats ten times per second for higher precision). 

The next generation of the “White Birch” came equipped with the Spring Drive movement, which cleverly combines the benefits of mechanical and quartz technology into one.

Both of these models, inspired by Japanese nature, belong to a greater design concept that Grand Seiko calls the “Evolution 9” philosophy. It was created a couple of years before the “White Birch” arrived and acts as the backbone to which all models adhere to. Think of the Evolution 9 style as a sort of checklist of criteria that all GS watches adhere to. The concept focuses on three key areas; aesthetics, legibility, and comfort. 

From a legibility point of view, GS watchmakers create dial elements with flat planes and build them up on the surface of the dial to give them a three-dimensional effect. These angles reflect the light and cast shadows across the dial in ways I’ve never seen before. Moreover, the dial’s faceted features create sharp points and crisp lines that reflect the light along bladed edges, while curves are kept to a minimum to retain a sense of precision.

Grand Seiko “White Birch” SLGA009: In-Depth Review

It wasn’t until I had the chance to get some hands-on time with the SLGA009 that I could fully appreciate the differences between the Hi-Beat and Spring Drive “White Birch” models. Sure, we’re still talking about subtle differences here.

However, subtle differences mean a lot in the world of horology, where just a couple of millimeters of growth in a lug-to-lug measurement can take a watch from manageable to overbearing. It is, after all, the small differences that watch connoisseurs really appreciate.  

Luckily, Grand Seiko is all about the small differences. Examples of meticulous attention to detail can be seen in so many of its watches – the subtle nods to nature here and there and the dials that capture the interplay between light and shadows, for example. 

All these practices can be attributed to Grand Seiko’s unique manufacturing processes, which I mentioned earlier. In every sense of the word, these are a class above Seiko timepieces, and for good reason.

Boy, does it make all the difference to hold this watch and turn it under the light? Suffice it to say, photos of this watch don’t do it justice. When you look head-on at the dial, those planes and polished surfaces I mentioned earlier are all there. But you don’t get to witness the three-dimensional effect of the dial until you hold it in your hand and turn it under the light. 

All the crevices, grooves, and furrows of the dial come to life as light washes over them. This is perhaps where the SLGA009 differs the most from the Hi-Beat model. It is subtler in some ways, but more effective in others.

The Dial

You really do get a sense of what those white birch trees look like in the flesh when you gaze into the dial of the Seiko “White Birch” Spring Drive watch. What initially drew me into the display was the subtle modifications that GS has thrown in during the transition from the Hi-Beat movement to the Spring Drive. 

The standout difference is that the dial texture on the SLGA009 is less aggressive. The grooves are not so prominent, and the shade of the dial is much whiter than the silvery tones of the former model. I think it’s this difference in dial color that wins me over. Give me a white dial over a silver one any day. In this case, it makes the design look cleaner and more contemporary.

At the same time, the beauty of the textured dial is subtle and more discreet. You have to work a little harder, delve a little deeper even, to appreciate its hidden beauty and I like that. On the contrary, I think the whiter dial allows you to pick up the branches of the birch tree more easily when you do take a closer look.

Next up, the date at 3 o’clock. This one is subtler in design, with a thinner frame that’s less bold and “blocky”. In reference to those integral Evolution 9 tick-list features, the faceted hour markers are ready and waiting for me to read and are meticulously polished. 

The hour hand has a chopped-off tip, and the blued second hand now has a capped pinion, which gives the dial a better feel of completion. In contrast, the Hi-Beat movement features the exposed silver pinion tip, making the display look a little unfinished. Call me “OCD”, but unless we’re talking abstract watch designs, I like my dial elements rounded off nicely and neatly. Of course, this also helps aid legibility.

If you look towards the lower portion of the dial, you’ll see the “Spring Drive” and “Five days” lettering above 6 o’clock, which brings me to talk about the power reserve. One of the first things that really interested me about this watch (and the Hi-Beat version before it) is the fact that Seiko removed the power reserve indicator from the dial and relocated it to the back of the case. 

I don’t feel this takes anything integral away from the design, nor does it add anything either. The “White Birch” is a watch that you can appreciate for its clarity, and if clarity means relocating the power reserve to the rear of the watch, then so be it. Plus, you still get to enjoy the beautiful blued hand, which displays the autonomy of the watch clearly and elegantly.

The Movement

Speaking of the power reserve, that indicator is a monitor for the beating heart of the Grand Seiko SLGA009 “White Birch” – the Spring Drive Calibre 9RA2. If you were wondering how this sophisticated movement works, it uses a thermo-compensator, which checks for fluctuations in temperature hundreds of times throughout the day. 

The spring-powered movement has an electro-magnetic breaking system and is regulated by a quartz crystal. This movement promises a power reserve of 5 days and features an off-set magic lever to allow for extra thinness.

Both the Hi-Beat and Spring Drive calibers are great movements. But if I were to pick one, I’d have to opt for the Spring Drive, mainly because this is a completely unique invention by Grand Seiko. It shows how the brand wants to pitch itself in the industry – as a boundary pusher and innovator.

Materials

The Grand Seiko SLGA009 watch is crafted from stainless steel and benefits from a ton of Zaratsu and matte finishes. The top of the bezel is flat and brushed, creating an understated frame around the textured bark-inspired dial. Zaratsu polishing is also evident on the sides of the bezel. 

Turn the case, and you’ll see the sides are also executed with a brushed finish. Grand Seiko equips the front and back of the watch with a piece of sapphire crystal glass. On the front, the anti-reflective technology on the glass grants a clear view into the dial. The glass is also incredibly hard to scratch up, helping to preserve the dial for years to come.

The Case and How It Wears

I mentioned earlier that the 40mm diameter of the “White Birch” Hi-Beat is the sweet spot for the average-sized wrist. The same can be said for the Spring Drive. But since my female wrist can’t testify to how this watch wears in real life, I researched what collectors make of the dimensions of this watch. 

Just like the SLGH005, the case wears well, but only on those wrists measuring at the top end of the 6” scale. Anything below that may not feel the full benefit of the case’s angular profile and its short lugs. Still, the watch has a low center of gravity, enabling it to sit better on the wrist.

I like the fact that Grand Seiko opts for a very slightly domed sapphire glass top. It does protrude slightly over the top of the bezel, but its design helps keep the dimensions of the watch in proportion and protects the dial from impact. 

The crown is another obvious difference compared to the Hi-Beat version. It’s larger and grooved for an easy grip. It still bears the Grand Seiko logo on its surface but feels and looks more prominent.

The Bracelet

The matte sides of the case feature drilled lugs that make for easy strap changes. That said, strap options for a 22mm to 20mm tapering bracelet may be harder to acquire than, say, a 22mm to 18mm. This is only a gently tapering bracelet, but it helps bring the profile of the watch down and fits better on the ventral side of the arm. 

The bracelet is a stainless steel three-link design with a three-fold clasp and push-button mechanism. I’ve seen the watch on a black alligator leather band; it looks equally stylish and classic. What I think would look particularly cool is a brown leather strap on this watch to bring out its more casual side.

Conclusion

Quite often, Japanese watches are considered cheaper alternatives to traditional Swiss timepieces. But that’s not always the case. Brands like Grand Seiko break that mold with designs like the “Snowflake” and the “White Birch”. 

The Japanese watchmaker crafts timepieces from high-end materials and uses cutting-edge technology to create some of the industry’s finest sports and dress watches. Grand Seiko is a name I often use to argue against these stereotypical views on Japanese quality.

As I mentioned, there are some subtle but significant differences to note between the Grand Seiko “White Birch” SLGA009 and the Hi-Beat version. That said, this is a beautiful watch in its own right. Its key features are a distinctly smooth sweeping second hand, courtesy of the Spring Drive movement, and an attractive, white birch-inspired dial leveraged by artisan finishes and high-end case executions. 

The dial is white now, and the crown is larger. The watch also promises greater accuracy and boasts a more discreet dial decoration that somehow achieves an even truer bark-effect finish.

I’d love to see more dial techniques emerge as Grand Seiko continues to grow and evolve. For models like the “White Birch”, this is about as good as it gets. This is a watch for daily wear. It’s sophisticated enough to pair with elegant attire, but it also looks great in a jeans and shirt ensemble. 

But remember to err on the side of caution if you’re looking at donning your 5-6” inch wrist with a Grand Seiko like this. Go try one on to get a feel for whether the tapered bracelet and shortened lugs feel in proportion with your wrist.