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rolex air king review

Read This Before You Buy the Rolex Air King

Nina S

March 20, 2025

If someone had given me a crystal ball two years ago, I’d have happily and confidently said that the Rolex Air-King had enjoyed a good innings and predicted it was due to hang up its hat.

Why? Because nothing lasts forever, not even some of the most iconic watches in the world. Indeed, there will come a time when the Royal Oaks and Submariners of the world will be less desirable than they are now.

Perhaps not forgotten altogether, but the ever-changing tide of watch trends washes new designs ashore every week, and slowly but surely, trends are evolving, even if we don’t see the result of those transitions for another decade or so.

Even brands like Omega, TUDOR, Patek Philippe, and Grand Seiko can’t avoid it. That said, some things last longer than expected, and that can certainly be said for the Rolex Air-King. I hold my hands up.

My prediction was wrong because whilst Rolex would go on to discontinue the Air-King reference 116900, it soon followed it up with the reference 126900, and all was good with the world again.

While we’re on the topic of extending collections, I have to say that although Rolex watches are nothing short of legendary – pure excellence – genius, even the Crown brand is not the most adventurous.

Rolex remains at the forefront of indispensable grab-and-go watches, promising remarkable resistance to wear and unmatched durability and toughness throughout the industry. Why, then, does it not experiment more?

After all, it was one of the last brands to jump on board using strong, lightweight titanium for tool watches – a material that has long been used in the aerospace industry for its qualities. How did it mark the occasion, do you think? With a new collection, maybe? Nope! Just another Sea Dweller! (Sea-Dwellers are awesome, by the way!)

Anyway, what I’m saying is that what keeps Rolex admirers hanging on the brand’s every release is the prospect that one day, we might get an entirely new, off-the-wall, and unexpected design.

Until that day, however, we must learn to accept that Rolex is the king of watches because it produces cool, timeless watches for the masses, not because of its experimentation with niche concepts.

Without these successful models, it simply wouldn’t be able to churn out the million watches per year that it does. The Air-King, whether you consider it unadventurous or not, is here to stay, and the reference 126900 has some remarkable features worth mentioning if you’re considering biting the bullet on one.

The Air-King Has Changed. A Lot!

Rolex Air King

For an impressive three-decade duration (nearly four), the Rolex Air-King stayed relatively unchanged from its debut release in 1957. It grew in popularity for its no-nonsense dial and functional beauty.

The last models to honor this much-loved format were those from the 1142XX series, which launched in 2007. Although modified with some slight reworkings, it remained true to that first 1950s model in many ways. This series was eventually given the chop, only for Rolex to unleash a new Air-King design in 2016. 

If you’re familiar with the Bloodhound SCC vehicle, designed to break land speed records at supersonic speeds, you may recall the design of its dash clocks, which Rolex not only helped to design but took inspiration from when creating the new generation of Air-King watches.

Sadly, that record-breaking moment never happened, and the Bloodhound SCC went into administration. Then the pandemic hit. You could say that this series of events scuppered the Air King’s potential to become everyone’s much-loved day-to-day favorite.

But it wasn’t the brand’s most popular design by any stretch of the imagination. Even so, doomed rocket car not, Rolex stood proudly by this design and continued to produce the Air-King. 

At one point, it looked like Rolex would have nowhere to go when building on the Air-King’s design. A reinterpretation of the original design seemed like an impossibility.

Plus, a reworked Air-King, being so similar in design to the Oyster Perpetual already, would sit too close to the brand’s bread-and-butter watch. The Air-King was losing its popularity. But here’s the thing: Rolex launched another one. And it was good. So good.

A Review of the Rolex Air King 126900

The modern Air-King, released in 2022, is largely similar to the Milgauss and is considered a relatively underappreciated design.

Perhaps this can be attributed to the fact that the watch has undergone some rather significant changes over the years. After all, it hasn’t always been a tool watch.

Moreover, its classic dress watch aesthetics previously measured a compact 34mm diameter, while the dial was very minimalist. Post-2014 models, however, came in at a new 40mm diameter, compounding the need to move with the times.

The Case 

The Air-King reference 126900 is nothing like the original 5500 reference from 1957, that much we’ve established already.

However, the mix of Arabic numerals, similar to the Explorer collection, and the military-style 1940s case shape tap into niche pilot watch-collecting circles (although this isn’t a pilot’s watch in the modern form). This is the only Rolex watch that combines a crown guard case with a function-less bezel.

Loosely based on the Milgauss, it features a 40mm stainless steel case without any domed or rounded surfaces.

This should only concern those with a sub-7-inch wrist since it makes the watch appear flat against the skin. That said, the brushing on the flat areas and the polishing on the sides and the bezel is no less impressive than any other tool watch from Rolex.

The case’s design is very much Oyster, regardless of which angle you’re viewing it from. The facets of the case are sharp and angular, almost athletic-looking. Rolex gives the watch a larger lug width, which seems to be a running theme, with similar changes rolled out across the modern Submariner and Explorer II.

The case of the 126900 also features a twin-lock crown and a screwed caseback, and with the addition of the crown guard drastically changes the feel of the case on the wrist, enhancing more of a tool-like feel.

The Dial

Rolex Air King Dial

The dial of the Air-King is different and fun. The minute markers take a little bit of getting used to, but they do challenge you to adopt a new approach to timekeeping the more time you spend wearing the watch. The first thing worth mentioning is the rich black display, which will match pretty much any outfit except for a professional suit, perhaps, since the watch’s overall design is resolutely sporty. 

In the metal, the pop of Rolex green is a nice touch and is seen in the second hand and the Rolex lettering.

The minute markers are very generously lumed and are a marked improvement compared to the previous model, which featured white gold numerals void of any luminescent material. Now, they look reminiscent of the Explorer markers, cementing subtle pilot-style cues.

The addition of the “05” numeral as opposed to the older “5” numeral is another good decision by Rolex, giving the display a stronger sense of balance and matching the “55” marker on the other side.

The Mercedes hands, although reshaped, are out in full force, too, traveling across the dial underneath a strong, flat anti-glare piece of sapphire crystal. Overall, the dial this time around feels more coherent. Many have described the dial of the Rolex Air-King ref.126900 as polarising, which I can relate to.

The layout is crisper and more defined, and the punchy green elements ramp up the sporty undertones of the watch perfectly.

The Movement 

The 2016 Air-King reference 116900 watch was marked as a superlative chronometer for the first time in its career. If you weren’t already aware, that means the movement inside its robust 905L stainless steel case has passed a series of stringent tests to ensure it meets strict quality criteria.

Rolex watches that bear this standard indicate so on the surface of their dials. The precision of these movements is tested using Rolex-developed equipment, promising an impressive accuracy within –2 to +2 seconds.

The Calibre 3131 was fitted inside a case that had just undergone one of the most drastic size increases in the brand’s history, so you can certainly appreciate that this modification took the Rolex community a while to get used to. 

Comparing the initial post-2014 iteration and the second one, some differences are worth mentioning. The case went from a round profile with polished sides to a more chiseled aesthetic with a sharper, more athletic look.

The size, however, stays the same at 40mm, although the thickness of the case has dropped from 13.1mm to a more adequate 11.59mm. This time, the case holds the Calibre 3230, the next generation of the former Calibre 3131.

The movement is another superlative chronometer that exists in other three-handed sports watches throughout the brand’s portfolio. It also performs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and makes use of a Parachrom hairspring – a component that is impervious to magnetism.

Its 70-hour power reserve also makes it a great weekend watch, running accurately from Friday through Sunday should you wish to switch it out for another favorite. This movement also employs the Chronergy escapement, which helps with this impressive power reserve with a fairly new geometry that combines a more efficient gear train with a new, improved barrel.

The Strap

The Rolex Air-King ref 126900 is fitted on an Oyster bracelet, which seamlessly delivers form and function to the wrist in equal measure. The Oysterlock clasp, engraved with the iconic brand logo, prevents you from accidentally opening the bracelet.

At the same time, the Easylink comfort extension link mechanism enables you to increase the length of the bracelet by 5mm. This is a handy feature in the summer when your wrist is contending with warm, humid environments and you’re going from a cold dip in the sea to a dry, hot beach.

The watch has no other configuration, either, so you have to enjoy it for what it is. And without endless strap options pulling you in different directions, you can fully appreciate the rugged and durable watch that Rolex intends it to be.

Everything from the tapering of the bracelet to the brushing and polishing of the link in this design is finished to the high standard one would expect of any Rolex watch.

The lug width of this Air-King is unusual, measuring 21mm, which would make shopping for alternative straps a little trickier than usual. Still, there are strap options to accommodate this size should you want to experiment with different bands over time. 

How Does It Wear? 

As aforementioned, the reference 126900 sits at a more manageable height on the wrist than the reference 116900 did.

The pronounced crown with a more notable fluted design, the safety lock clasp on the Oyster link bracelet, and the crown guard all make for an aesthetically pleasing design if the non-conventional Rolex is what you’re looking for.

As the most non-Rolex of Rolex watches, the design combines an extremely well-built construction with tight tolerances, making for a great daily beater that you should naturally be able to take anywhere.

The awkward lug width I mentioned earlier does have one advantage: it slims the case down, tapering it and enabling it to fit snugly on the wrist.

The slab sides of the watch, however, do make the watch sit relatively flat, and without that much-needed curvature, the case can appear large on slender wrists.

Looking directly at the watch from the side, you’ll likely have some gaps between the wrist and the case, and the first link of the bracelet does articulate beyond the lugs, which is unfortunate. Saying that the rest of the links contour well with the shape of the wrist and sit comfortably against the skin without snagging or rattling.

Overall, the Air-King is lighter and leaner than models like the Sub or the GMT-Master II and will behave well under the cuff of a jacket or sweater. 

Pricing and Availability 

Even though the Air-King isn’t one of the brand’s most in-demand designs, you can still expect to join a waiting list if you’re buying from new at a local stockist.

Options open up once you get on the secondary market, though. Vintage models are surprisingly affordable (starting from around $4-5000), while current models demand a higher price, with references like the 116900 still demanding prices around the $7-8000 mark.

The Air-King has always been a good entry point into the world of Rolex watch collecting, and today, this is still true for pre-owned models on the secondary market.

Although it left little room to expand upon, the reinvention of the Air-King is considered quite a polarising design by many collectors, driving prices up somewhat. Still, in the grand scheme of things, the new Air-King models are still one of the most affordable to invest in. 

The frustrating thing with Rolex watches is that you can’t just take the $7-8000 the brand wants for this watch to a local stockist and walk out with it.

However, being a relatively young model, pre-owned Air-King watches are worth the investment and, in many cases, are still in mint condition. This is certain to cut out any lengthy waiting times.

Conclusion 

There is no denying that the latest Air-King in Rolex’s catalog is unorthodox and somewhat quirky. It’s a design that seems to straddle so many different designs.

The Arabic numerals on the double-digit minute markers are not the easiest to reference and take some time to get used to. But if you’re looking for something unique, the Air-King could be the game changer you’re waiting for.

It’s an individual-looking watch that will attract one of two types of collectors – the type that backs a Rolex regardless of its design or style and the kind that is looking to add a bit of spice to the mix and wants to be proved wrong.

Although it wasn’t a head-over-heels love story for many collectors, the design works. And while this time, I’d rather not predict what the brand will do next, I shall save face and say that I hope the Air-King sticks around for the foreseeable this time.

tissot vs hamilton

Tissot vs Hamilton: Which Swiss Brand is Superior?

Nina S

March 9, 2025

Tissot and Hamilton: if you aren’t familiar with either of these two names, I’d have to assume you’ve been hiding under a rock for several years because they’re two of the most prominent names in the watch industry. They’re both considered gateways into the affordable luxury watch sector. Still, they have different backgrounds and niches to consider if you’re in the market for your first watch (or maybe another).

Choosing between Tissot and Hamilton is like selecting a fine cheese with a bottle of wine. Both have matured over time, have their own flavor, and complement different palettes. And the truth is, much of what we’ll cover in this Tissot vs Hamilton debate depends on personal preference. 

Still, there are some facts you may want to know about both reputable names before taking the plunge since doing the correct research beforehand will ensure you make the right choice. 

Before we delve in, however, know that both Hamilton and Tissot sit in the entry-level bracket, which occupies a large portion of the market. (Generally speaking, this covers anything from around $1-10k). Also, both are under the Swatch Group banner and manufacture their watches in Switzerland, despite Hamilton’s proud American roots.

Now, without further ado, let’s look at the differences between two superior watchmakers in a tale of touchscreen technology and Hollywood movies.

Brand Heritage

Let’s start at the beginning. We’ll look at where both watchmakers began, some of their biggest milestone moments, and their expansion into the mainstream sector of Haute Horlogerie.

The History of Tissot Watches

Tissot Gentleman

Anyone over 40 should be familiar with Tissot, even if they only have a vague interest in watches. Believe it or not, it’s one of the oldest watchmaking companies still operating and has been around since 1853. 

Before becoming a household name, the brand specialized in pocket watches, supplying many of its watches (namely the iconic Tissot “Banana” watch) to Russia before that practice became illegal in 1919. Soon after, Tissot created another Art Deco piece named the Porto, with a tonneau-shaped case that still continues to inspire modern designs today.

Based in Le Locle, Tissot has grown up around illustrious names like Montblanc, Zenith, Mido, Certina, Zodiac, and The Crown watchmaker Rolex. In fact, in the 1930s, the brand partnered with Omega, further cementing its reputation as a reliable and trusted name. 

Then came the Tissot Antimagnetique, the world’s first anti-magnetic watch. Thanks to its association with Omega, Tissot gained access to some incredible movements during this time, making its 1950s and 1960s watches some of the most popular of all. 

At this point, Tissot was at the epicenter of affordable, reliable watchmaking, releasing collections such as the Calatrava, Camping, Visodate, and the Seastar, the latter of which is still widely loved today.

Like many leading brands that the devastating Quartz Crisis hit, Tissot had to think on its feet and change strategy to survive. After switching predominantly to quartz-operated timepieces, a surprising amount of innovation during the 1970s emerged. The brand had already released the world’s first plastic mechanical watch. 

Hence, exploring materials further seemed like a natural progression, unveiling designs like the RockWatch – a timepiece crafted from Alpine graphite – and the WoodWatch in 1988, which followed the PearlWatch a year earlier.

However, the pivotal point for Tissot came in the late 1990s with the brand’s first T-Touch watch. We’ll talk about this in a little more detail further on, but the launch of this unique touchscreen put the brand at the forefront of technical innovation and, thus, the advent of the smartwatch.

The History of Hamilton Watches

Hamilton Watches

Hamilton watch company tells a story of American roots and Swiss adoption. The company’s headquarters now resides in Biel, but it spent the first century of its life in Pennsylvania, US.  

In the beginning, Hamilton focussed on refining some important pocket watches that formed the Broadway Limited collection. This series fundamentally helped develop timekeeping across the American railroad system.

During the First World War, Hamilton played an integral role in developing the wrist-worn watch. Addressing the impractical design of the pocket watch for frontline work, the brand’s first wristwatch arrived in 1917. 

A year later, US airmail flights elected Hamilton as its official timekeeper and, by the 1930s, was recognized as a top choice for four of the US’s major commercial airlines.

Most of Hamilton’s manufacturing focused on wristwatches for World War II during the late 1930s and early 1940s, but beyond that, the brand would become globally recognized for its association with Hollywood. 

Hamilton watches were first noticed on the silver screen in the making of the 1951 film “The Frogmen,” but even more notably, Elvis Presley wore the iconic Ventura on his wrist, “Blue Hawaii,” ten years later. The Ventura pushed the envelope with an asymmetrical case design unlike anything else on the current market. 

This transition towards a more futuristic identity led to its presence in sci-fi films like “2001: A Space Odyssey”, “Men in Black” and “Interstellar.”

Model Variety

Of course, when tackling the Hamilton vs Tissot debate, we must consider factors like selection and choice. Tissot has a wide variety of designs and styles to choose from, and its strategy to pitch its watches to its market differs slightly from that of Hamilton.

Hamilton promotes its products using its American heritage and Hollywood portfolio to leverage its appeal to worldwide followers. It has a presence in major watch markets, focusing on quality and craftsmanship, and is prominently featured as a luxury item in retailer and boutique settings.

Tissot, renowned for its affordability, is also available in a large selection of retail stores and has a strong online presence. It drives its products to the heart of those who love the Swiss element of watch manufacture, especially since its heritage dates back almost 200 years. 

Of those watches that exemplify the brand’s penchant for creating classic timepieces, the T-Classic collection has to be the most diverse and broad selection of timeless models. It’s where you can find sporty models like the PRX and the PR100, while the Classic Dream series is home to some of the brand’s most sophisticated dress watches.

Hamilton’s designs also echo the same sense of brand provenance but in designs like the Ventura. The distinctive boomerang shape of the case is unmissable and became even more famous once stylized on the wrist of the King of Rock, Elvis Presley. 

Other models that represent the best of Hamilton’s craftsmanship include the Khaki collection, with a huge range of models primed for land (Khaki Field), sea (Khaki Navy), and sky (Khaki Aviation).

Design

When it comes to watchmaking innovation and technology, both Tissot and Hamilton have contributed in significant ways – Hamilton with its cinematic legacy and Tissot with its forward-thinking touchscreen watches.

Hamilton watches have a classic American style but often feature vintage or military-inspired aesthetics. Hamilton watches are great conversation starters for those who value heritage and tradition, so you’ll never struggle for an interesting topic to talk about when someone notices your wristwatch.

And while some models are rugged and almost tool-like, others, like the Jazzmaster, can be enjoyed at formal occasions and with more refined attire.

Tissot offers a broader choice of designs for business and casual attire. And if simplicity in a watch is your reference, then Tissot certainly provides that. It’s also the brand to explore if you like contemporary styles over timepieces that give off vintage military-esque vibes. One example is the Le Locle collection – a series of elegant designs named after the company’s origins. 

Of course, one of the company’s most technically impressive designs is the T-Touch, which has subsequently grown into the brand’s smartwatch offerings, not to mention its solar-powered models. 

Today, T-Touch watches enable seamless touchscreen functionality with touch-sensitive sapphire crystals that allow you to navigate features like an altimeter, barometer, compass, and thermometer.

Build Quality & Materials

People mainly recognize Tissot for its extensive sports watch offerings, so it should be no surprise that it crafts most of its designs from stainless steel for a rugged and durable look. That said, some feature gold or titanium or have luxurious gold coatings or stealthy black PVD-coated finishes. 

Of course, this selection of quality materials and the use of sapphire glass combine with advanced features like the brand’s touchscreen technology to showcase the brand’s commitment to attention to detail.

While many of Tissot’s sports watches are rugged and ready for outdoor pursuits, Hamilton watches are also primed for plenty of outdoor use. They are sturdy and long-lasting, and the military aesthetics you see in some of the brand’s models help achieve that all-important field-watch look.

One good thing about comparing a Hamilton watch with a Tissot watch is that quality build and materials are a given regardless of which one you’re leaning toward.

Because both brands belong under the Swatch Group, they each come with a two-year warranty, which will cover you for any manufacturing defects. 

However, it won’t cover you for general wear and tear, loss, or damage caused by misuse, so you must check out how to look after your watch correctly before investing in either brand of watch.

Hamilton’s customer care service addresses technical issues, while Tissot’s approach to customer service seems more generalist, appealing to a broader clientele.

Movements

Hamilton watches feature automatic movements that are known for their reliability and accuracy. So do Tissot watches. In fact, both use ETA movements.

The key thing to note about ETA movements is that they’re very affordable, enabling both brands to keep manufacturing costs down and offer their respective consumers an accessible price point.

Aside from using third-party movements, Tissot modifies some calibers, like the Swissmatic movement and the Powermatic 80. The latter, for example, is based on a movement made for the brand by ETA but is more expensive due to the modifications it has undergone to give it an impressive 80-hour power reserve.

The same can be said for Hamilton. While many of its watches are ETA-powered, some feature movements with an increased power reserve. An example would be the H30, whereas others are Valjoux modifications, not to mention manual-winding movements for those who love tradition.

It’s also worth noting that both brands offer quartz-powered watches for those shopping on a sub-$500 budget.

Price Point

Whether it’s design aesthetics or quality materials, individuals often engage in discussions such as the Tissot vs Hamilton debate while they navigate the world of Swiss watches to find the perfect watch that aligns best with their preferences.

Whatever those most important factors are for a consumer, price will play some role in the decision-making process.

Good news for those buying on a budget because both Tissot and Hamilton occupy the affordable sector. That means you won’t have to remortgage your home to buy one, nor will you need to spend years and years saving for one. 

At the same time, neither brand is dirt cheap, so you know you’re getting good value for your money when you invest in either of these two brands.

The average cost of a Hamilton watch is around $750, though prices can reach around $4,000. On the contrary, a Tissot watch’s average cost is a couple hundred dollars less, with more advanced watches costing around $2,000 depending on the design. 

Therefore, we can say that Hamilton is a slightly more premium brand than Tissot. Even so, a considerable part of Tissot’s success is down to the versatility of its pricing, offering a broader price range and thus appealing to a slightly wider audience.

At the end of the day, though, there’s not much in it. Both brands offer a vast array of affordable options, a choice of quartz and automatic versions, and a range of styles and sizes.  

Conclusion

What’s so important about Hamilton’s heritage is that its American origins still play a significant role in the designs we see in its catalog today. Collections like the American Classic are modern examples of such. 

The brand’s American heritage and its identity are still very much intertwined. Interestingly, some of the company’s formerly retired designs, like the Boulton, were relaunched during the 1980s. Examples like this appeal to collectors looking for something different but with the assurance of the “Swiss Made” label.

On the other hand, Tissot is Swiss through and through, and that’s sometimes enough to sway a collector without considering anything else.

Models like the PRX have become a more affordable but equally stylish alternative to more expensive sports watch players, like Audemars Piguet with its Royal Oak or Patek and its famous Nautilus.

When you compare build quality, materials, and precision across both brands, there are very few major differences between a Hamilton watch and a Tissot watch, so we only need to look skin deep. Both demonstrate excellent value for money, are fitted with equally good movements, and are crafted from good quality materials.

While Tissot is the brand you’d go for if you wanted a robust sports watch, Hamilton is the expert in field watches, with models like the Khaki Field, Aviation, and Navy enjoying much of the brand’s attention. 

And while connoisseurs often accuse Tissot of playing things a little safe with its classic offerings, they are timeless nonetheless and perfect for everything from a run in the park to a sophisticated black tie event.

But if your collection lacks something a little off-the-wall, Hamilton dares to push the boundaries of watch etiquette a little, with designs like the Jazzmaster, the Face2Face, and the 1950s Ventura to explore.

In the end, choosing between Tissot and Hamilton watches all boils down to preference. Both have a heritage to shout about.

Both, in some way or another, have donated something significant to watchmaking innovation and technology. Most of all, both brands share the same values of reliability, robustness, and longevity.

If you’re still torn, I suggest you take your time to research each brand thoroughly. Research the collections in detail; in doing so, something you see or read is bound to resonate with you and your ideals. It may be a part of the brand’s history or watchmaking ethics. Either way, when something clicks, you’ll know for sure which brand your wrist is calling out for.

Clash of the Titans – Tissot vs Citizen – Two of the Best Entry Level Watch Brands

Nina S

December 27, 2024

If you aren’t familiar with Tissot or Citizen watches, you must be new to watch collecting, because even those interested in high-end haute horlogerie know about these two key players in the industry. 

Both are leaders in affordable timepieces, and both have a lot to offer the beginner watch collector. In fact, either of these two brands is a great choice if you’re a novice. They promise good quality materials and reliability and offer an array of stylish timepieces to suit all tastes and needs.

While Citizen is a Japanese brand, Tissot’s heritage is firmly rooted in Swiss soil. The former specializes in eco-friendly technology, while you can consider the latter a gateway to affordable luxury. 

Either way, whether you choose the popular Japanese giant or the famous Swiss hard-hitter, you can’t go wrong when it comes to finding a day-to-day companion without burning a hole in your pocket. But what many people are interested in knowing is how they both compare. Let’s take a look as we address the Tissot vs Citizen watch debate.

Tissot – An Overview

Tissot is an expert in crafting affordable yet stylish wristwatches. Not only does the brand offer its fair share of solar-powered timepieces, but its mechanical wristwatches are also incredibly popular. 

The brand bridges the gap between traditional-looking timepieces and modern innovation, having experienced huge success with its T-Touch technology back in the 1990s, not to mention its classically-inspired sports watch category. 

The Tissot PRX is one watch design you’ll likely be familiar with. It’s one of the brand’s most celebrated models, inspired by iconic designs created by the legendary Gerald Genta during the 1970s. Those looking for a cheaper alternative to the Royal Oak or Nautilus, therefore, will find the Tissot PRX a good fit.

That’s not to say that Tissot doesn’t offer something for those who like the great outdoors, however. The models from the Touch series are powered by quartz movements and allow users to access the features they need via a touchscreen. 

These technical watches come equipped with features like an altimeter, chronograph, barometer, step counter, and compass. Although slightly confusing, the PRX watch is part of the Swiss brand’s T-Classic collection, while sporty models like the Seastar and PRS are part of the T-Sports collection.

Above all, Tissot watches come in a huge variety of styles and features, including ETA movements and those that promise up to 80 hours of power reserve, promising outstanding value for money.

Citizen – An Overview

Citizen made waves in the industry from an early age with its ground-breaking technological advances. It has become one of the largest manufacturers in the entire world since its birth during the 1930s. 

If you’ve been doing your research on the brand, you’ll already be aware that Citizen is a key player in the realm of solar-powered timepieces with its Eco-Drive series, and it specializes in atomic time via GPS technology. 

The fact is, Eco-Drive technology and its innovative solar-powered features made many other Citizen watches redundant at the time of its release, yet this didn’t deter the brand or its success.

The advantages of Citizen’s Eco-Drive watches became obvious from the get-go. They were (and still are) incredibly precise, promising to keep accurate time, even when only exposed to light for a short period of time. 

The fact that they could sit dormant in a drawer for months, yet require just moments of sunlight to power back into action, made them super convenient and better for the environment, too, saving many battery replacements throughout their lifespan.

Some Citizen Eco-Drive watches even have a power saver mode that proves particularly useful when worn in dark conditions for periods of time. 

Exploring Citizen watches can be quite overwhelming, due to the sheer amount of options on offer, yet collections like the Elegant, Sports, Promaster, and Super Titanium prove the most popular, offering a myriad of styles and designs to choose from.

The Mechanical Classic series is another great place to explore if you want watches with respectable water-resistant capability. In contrast, the Promaster Sky model from the aforementioned Promaster series is a pilot’s watch with a twist, offering radio versions, some of which feature lightweight titanium cases, as well as countless features for calculating flight data while air-bound.

Brand Histories

A quick look at the histories of Tissot and Citizen will give you a little insight into their backgrounds and how they compare to one another. Looking at both side-by-side will hopefully enable you to make an informed decision about which brand is best for you.

Out of the two, Tissot is the oldest watch brand, arriving on the scene in 1853. The brand was responsible for developing the first mass-produced pocket watch, as well as the first anti-magnetic watch. 

It partnered up with Omega around the time that Citizen was born, granting it access to some incredible movements and great success with models like the Tissot Navigator – the first mass-produced watch featuring 24 time zones, along with the Tissot Seastar. The quartz revolution had a huge impact on Tissot’s watch production. 

Switching tactics, it played the quartz game, finding ways to survive its crushing effect on the mechanical watch industry. This tactical solution, however, opened up the pathway for one of the brand’s most revolutionary designs, the Tissot T-Touch, which arrived in 1999.

On the other hand, we have Citizen, a brand that truly thrived throughout the quartz era. The company has always focussed on two things: affordability and technology. It created Japan’s first fully waterproof watch in 1959, named the Parawater. 

This sparked the beginnings of the brand’s innovative dive watch series, but meanwhile, Citizen experts were focussing on something altogether different – Eco-Drive technology. It was one of the first solar-powered wristwatches, taking pride in an environmentally conscious approach to modern watchmaking.

In 1993, Citizen released a world first – a multi-band atomic timekeeping wristwatch. It worked by synchronizing and adjusting its time with atomic clocks all over the world. In doing so, it promised accuracy down to the nanosecond.

Citizen or Tissot – Movement and Technology

When comparing Citizen watches side-by-side with Tissot watches, it’s clear to see that both excel in terms of timekeeping technology. The features offered by a T-Touch watch from Tissot are similar to those you would find in a modern smartwatch, providing you with important metrics in real-time, as you go. 

On the other hand, Citizen mostly specializes in solar-powered quartz technology, which harnesses the energy from light and converts that into power used for accurate timekeeping. The benefit of this technology eradicates the need for regular battery replacements, allowing you to technically forget about your watch while you wear it. 

In contrast, Tissot’s automatic watches offer a collector a more traditional way to keep track of time, adding to the charm and the appeal of mechanical timekeeping. While quartz watches are easy to maintain, many connoisseurs share the opinion that they’re too simple, lacking the craftsmanship and complexity of a mechanical.

Tissot vs Citizen – Aesthetics and Design

Citizen watches vary from complex, futuristic-looking timepieces to those inspired by Japanese minimalism, affording simplistic, clean dial layouts despite the sophistication of their built-in solar-powered technology. 

On the other hand, Tissot watches are favored for their classic designs. Traditional three-handed models sit alongside timeless chronographs, while different dial colors and two-tone (steel and gold-colored) options add more variety to the collections.

Both brands have plenty to offer by way of design, features, and case sizes. Tissot is a great brand to turn to if you’re looking for an affordable sports watch, while Citizen has a superb range of tool watches from the Promaster series – a collection for land, sea, and sky.

Tissot Watches – the Best Recommendations

One easy way to determine whether a Tissot is for you or not is to take a look at some recommendations.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 T137.407.11.351.00

This Tissot Powermatic reference T137.407.11.351.00 is a great example that shows off all the sporty elegance of the Swiss brand’s popular PRX collection. Its dial, adorned with a distinctive waffle pattern, follows the design cues of the embossed dials seen in models like the Royal Oak and its iconic Grand Tapisserie dial. 

Its turquoise shade is reminiscent of the Tiffany dial that is showcased in the Patek Philippe Nautilus range, while its integrated bracelet is a must-have feature of any covetable steel sports watch. With sweet spot dimensions of 40mm, the Tissot PRX really is an entry-level into the world of sports watch collecting and is powered by a movement that provides an impressive 80 hours of power reserve.

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80

Take a look at the gradient dial of this Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 watch. Perhaps the most inviting tones for gearing up for underwater exploration. And when taking this watch for a dip, you get to enjoy an impressive 600 meters of water resistance! 

The unidirectional bezel in black has a very readable 60-minute scale on its surface. You can also opt for the Seastar 2000 model with a black and gold gilt-coloured bezel, but there is something so sporty and tool-like about this blue gradient iteration, complete with a subtle wave-like surface texture that evokes the rippling waters of the ocean’s surface.

Citizen Watches – the Best Recommendations

Take a look at a couple of these superb bang-for-buck Citizen watch recommendations before deciding which brand is for you.

Citizen Promaster Diver Automatic Super Titanium NB6021-17E

Citizen offers some great dive watches in its Super Titanium watch collection – a series of timepieces that benefit from the lightweight and tactical nature of this popular material used in watchmaking. Take, for example, the Citizen Promaster Diver Automatic Super Titanium watch. 

It requires a broad wrist to carry its bold black-on-black case and strap design, yet its heft is cleverly counterbalanced by the lightweight qualities of the 200-meter water-resistant case. This watch is inspired by a historically important watch from Citizen’s archives – the 1977 Challenge Diver, which was found completely intact in 1983 on Long Reef Beach in Australia, having been exposed to the conditions of the Pacific Ocean for years. Thus, a model like this will appeal to those who like their watches to carry a little history and nostalgia.

Citizen Zenshin Chrono CA4610-85Z

The great thing about Citizen watches is the brand’s lightweight alternatives to the steel sports watch. The Citizen Zenshin Chrono ref CA4610-85Z has the integrated bracelet that collectors love so much about this style of watch. Crafted from Super Titanium, the watch features stepped chronograph counters in black against a textured salmon dial. 

A tachymeter scale also comes in handy for measuring speed based on distance. This watch is powered by Eco-Drive technology, and it never needs a battery. It promises 100 meters of water resistance and a tough sapphire crystal glass front.

The Tissot PRX or the Citizen Tsuyosa – A Comparison

One of the main comparisons collectors make when weighing up whether to purchase a Tissot watch or a Citizen watch is the Tissot PRX and the Citizen Tsuyosa. Both are easy to compare since they offer a similar aesthetic and are both powered by automatic movements.

Both the Citizen Tsuyosa and the Tissot PRX sit under the $1k bracket. The brand also offers a 40mm case width and a tonneau case shape that captures the ultra-popular steel sports watch aesthetic. Some subtle differences, however, include the case thickness – the Citizen Tsuyosa, which measures slightly thicker (12.2mm) than the PRX (11.2mm). 

This slight difference automatically means that the Tsuyosa will wear a little flatter against the wrist and will slide under the cuff of a shirt more easily. The latter also measures 1mm less in its lug-to-lug dimensions, too.

At a glance, the most obvious difference between these Citizen and Tissot watches is the dial finish. The Tsuyosa has a smooth sunray effect, while the PRX has the aforementioned waffle effect. 

Again, choosing between the two is simply down to preference, but if it’s an affordable Royal Oak you’re looking for, the PRX wins hands down on that front. An interesting feature of the Tsuyosa is the magnified lens above the date window at 3 o’clock, which the PRX lacks.

Bracelet-wise, the Citizen sports watch boasts rounded end links, while the Tissot sports watch has flatter links that are more reminiscent of models from a bygone era. The Tsuyosa is powered by a very basic Miyota movement. 

Nevertheless, it’s a reliable workhorse, producing a steady 40 hours of power reserve. Conversely, Tissot equips its PRX watch with the refined Powermatic engine, which is complete with double the power reserve of the Tsuyosa.

Although both of these watches are very similar in terms of design and features, in my opinion, the PRX wins over the Tsuyosa for a couple of reasons. 

Firstly, the PRX has a slightly more ergonomic design, sitting flatter on the wrist and making it more suited to office environments. Secondly, for a couple of hundred bucks more, you can enjoy a movement with double the power reserve, and the execution of the dial evokes a superior and more sophisticated finish.

Which is the Right Brand for You?

We can simplify the Tissot vs Citizen debate by looking at the key facts about each brand. Tissot offers some great affordable automatic watches for under $500, which make for absolute steals compared to the price of some Swiss alternatives. 

The company quickly learned how to take Swiss craftsmanship and convert it into designs that appealed to the mass market, and it certainly paid off. Some automatic Tissot watches are powered by mechanical movements that provide longer power reserves too, and even feature exhibition casebacks.

Above all, Tissot watches can be as classic and simple as you like, many of which exude a sportiness that makes for some great casual daily beaters.

Citizen watches cover a slightly broader price spectrum, with models priced as low as $200 for an Eco-Drive watch. Their aesthetics have a strong utilitarian vibe, while plenty of simple quartz models have classic aesthetics.

So, Citizen or Tissot – which is the better brand? The answer to that quandary really lies in personal preference and remains a matter of priority. Are you willing to splash out a little more for an automatic Tissot, or is the unbeatable precision of a Citizen watch more important to you?

Grand Seiko SGBJ277 Review: Behold the“Snow Valley”

Nina S

December 17, 2024

If you want to know what makes the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 “Sekkei” so special, I mean really peel back the layers to the design, you likely already know a thing or two about watches. In fact, you’ve probably lost yourself down the odd rabbit hole or two before now. 

They have a knack of getting under your skin. And, like me, you probably feel that press releases and basic reviews don’t cover the level of detail you need when you’re about to make a substantial investment in a watch, right? 

For me, a large part of quelling that curiosity and intrigue about a watch is understanding and learning about what keeps it ticking. Luckily, for a watch like the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 – the beating heart is a large part of its design. 

A Quick Overview of the Grand Seiko SBGJ277

Grand Seiko is heralded as one of the world’s greatest leaders in mechanical accuracy and has a backstory that outlines a rich tapestry of movement manufacture – each one pinpointing an important landmark and detailing the evolution of the company. 

When Grand Seiko launches a new product, it automatically becomes part of that backstory, like the “Sekkei” or “Snow Valley” – a GMT with a splendid color variation that arrived during Watches & Wonders earlier this year. It carries a movement from the 9S Calibre series, which ultimately became a philosophy of sorts. 

In fact, several models that adopted this same design language were designed by a CAD/CAM system and played a crucial role in forming the backbone of many Grand Seiko designs that followed. Furthermore, what made these innovative designs special was their ability to deliver a mechanical accuracy that previous models had never reached before.  

That series still runs today, and you can find some of its finest examples in models like the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 “Sekkei” – a design inspired by a phenomenon that occurs across the tops of Japan’s luscious mountains during the summer. 

If you’re ready to add a practical and super-accurate watch with tons of sartorial elegance to your collection, prepare yourself for the “Sekkei” – a watch that joins a stable of other snow-inspired dials and one that I feel equally deserves as much recognition as the coveted “Snowflake” itself. 

The “Snow Valley” has to be one of my favorite Grand Seiko watches of all. It speaks a language of intelligence, sophistication, and elegance. The green color on the GMT bezel, although deep, does pop on the wrist, and the texture of the dial is great for wearing on most occasions. 

Although the dimensions look large on paper, this is a watch that’s going to wear smaller on the wrist. I’d say it will work well for anything over a 7.5-inch wrist. On top of all that, the mechanical movement inside is not easy to manufacture, which, for me, is part of the appeal. 

And although Spring Drive is what many connoisseurs consider the pinnacle of Grand Seiko’s mechanical prowess – I happen to think differently. While we’re on that note, there’s a reason why this watch costs more than some Spring Drive watches, and I’m going to outline some of them in this review. 

The Background Behind the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 

There is nothing new about Grand Seiko watches taking inspiration from nature. The vast, picturesque landscapes surrounding the brand’s design studios form a backdrop that has long been a source of inspiration for some of the brand’s most beautiful handcrafted dials. 

But snow in the summer is not something we see every day, and, like many natural phenomena, Grand Seiko chooses to celebrate this seasonal spectacle with another meticulously crafted dial. 

At Grand Seiko, the dials do all the talking. They tell the story of the brand through chapters. Many designs, just like the SBGJ277 “Sekkei”, are guided by the company’s “Nature of Time” philosophy. 

And while most fans of the brand will already be familiar with the “Snowflake” watch, there are other distinct dials worth mentioning at this point. Take, for example, the SBGJ201, with a dial inspired by the exposed mountain face of Mt. Iwate, or the ref. SBGJ251, which mimics the verdant boom of the spring equinox? 

There’s the Birch tree-textured dial of the Grand Seiko SLGH005 and models inspired by the rippling waters of ponds and lakes in Japan’s summertime. From the colors and the textures of the country’s 24 changing seasons (or sekki”) to ice formations, falling blossoms, and the growth rings of an ancient tree – Grand Seiko is dedicated to showing the truest expression of its work in all that it does. So, let’s take a closer look.

A Deceptively Manageable Case

So, here are the all-important case dimensions you’ll need to know if you’re seriously considering adding the “Snow Valley” watch to your collection. The case diameter measures 42.4mm, and the thickness – 14.4mm. The case length is 50.6mm, while the lug width is 20.8mm. The crystal diameter on this watch is 31.4mm. 

What I particularly like straight up about this case is the matt finish GS experts give to the top of the lugs. It donates a modest edge to the design, making it easier to pair with casual attire as well as something dressy.

The polished case sides are not just any polished sides, either. They’re the signature Zaratsu polish that Grand Seiko is so renowned for. The crown is another eye-catching feature. Being a sports watch, experts at Grand Seiko position it at the 4 o’clock location, engraving it with the GS logo on the surface. 

The first thing I noticed about the bezel when I turned the case to the side is that it sits slightly above the case top, sealing to a domed sapphire crystal glass that provides adequate protection over that beautifully textured dial. The bezel (which moves bidirectionally), along with the dial, is the star of the show in this design and serves a dual purpose.

As if often seen in GMT watches, the bezel is segregated into nighttime and daytime hours. The nighttime hours are represented in the deepest green color – a shade that almost looks black under certain lights. Grand Seiko designers apply the numerals between 18 and 6 in white, while the remainder showcases the opposite – the daytime hours in white with deep green numerals. 

I like this juxtaposition. It’s a rare and alluring one that interacts beautifully with the nuances of the snow-effect dial texture. Smoother and quieter than a dive watch bezel, aligning the bezel with the GMT hand is an absolute breeze and certainly adds a fun edge to shifting across time zones with a companion like this. One more note on the bezel – its green proportions interestingly take up more real estate than the white, which adds a rather unusual dimension to the design.

Another Snow-Inspired Dial

Representing the beauty of the snowy valleys that form the landscape surrounding Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi studio, the SBGJ227 is not the first to capture this unique location, as we know. 

Popular for its cold winters and mild summers, this region of Iwate hosts several special species of alpine flora, a rugged scenic shoreline, National Trust parks, crisp ski resorts, and a dusting of powdery snow atop its mountainous regions all year through, even in the summer. It is this particular phenomenon that Grand Seiko skilfully captures across the milky white nuances of its beautifully textured dial. 

I love the layers, dramatic drops, and contrasting levels across the dial. Although subtle, they almost look like folding sheets of fabric draped on top of one another. Sometimes, the silvery nuances look nearly iridescent, and at other times, they mimic the look of silk or satin as they catch the light in ways unique to the Grand Seiko style. 

Grand Seiko experts finish the indices on this dial to perfection, with rectangular-shaped appliques featuring around the hour track, along with rhomboid hour markers at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock locations. 

Black minute sticks feature between each hour marker and a bi-color hour track can be found around the flange. Decorated in the same way as the bezel, the additional 24-hour track is finished in white and green, offering the advantage of a third timezone. The dauphine hands are squared off at the tip, creating a crisp and legible profile to track at a glance whenever you need to check the time while on the go.

Following the GMT hand is easy, too. Trimmed in deep green,  it features a triangular tip filled with luminous material to assist with timekeeping in the dark. Meanwhile, the silver, luminous-treated hour and minute hands are joined by a sweeping second hand that glides effortlessly across the snow-inspired dial. 

Of course, it’s the Hi-Beat movement that propels this hand with such grace and decorum. Even though the smoothly sweeping hand is a given in any Hi-Beat watch from Grand Seiko, it’s still a huge gain for me. Look to the 3 o’clock location, and you’ll find the date set behind a color-matched background for legibility, too.

10 Beats Per Second

The Grand Seiko “Snow Valley” watch belongs to the brand’s Sports Collection and takes inspiration from the original 44GS watch, released in the 1960s. That model housed a 10-beat manual movement that promised levels of the highest accuracy. 

Leveraged by the invention of new alloys and components, Grand Seiko moved closer, inch-by-inch, to achieving the “ideal” watch, making a lasting contribution to the global standard in watchmaking precision. These specially adjusted hi-beat movements set the bar in accuracy and, for over half a century have been manufactured in-house at Grand Seiko – thus the Grand Seiko SBGJ277.

Where else would a sports watch like this be built than at the company’s Shizukuishi Studio? After all, it is the birthplace of the brand’s proprietary Hi-Beat movement. 

From the entry-level Calibre 9S85 to the state-of-the-art, all-bells-and-whistles Calibre 9SA5 with dual impulse escapement – these ateliers offer quite the public experience – a place where collectors can let their horological dreams play out before their eyes as they absorb the atmosphere of one of the world’s most impressive nerve centers of precision timekeeping. 

Grand Seiko collectors can schedule a tour of the place and immerse themselves in an educational mystery tour of calibers, artifacts, and workshops that tell the story of the brand thus far. The studio opened in 2020 – three years after the company became an entirely separate brand from Seiko Watch Corporation and marked the 60th anniversary of the brand. 

Here, the fabrication of the components for each movement and the assembly and finishing of a watch is a very unified front. All parts of a Grand Seiko watch seem to work with a sense of equilibrium with one another, and the movement has a large part to play in that. 

Grand Seiko’s Hi-Beat movements are not all that common in watches today. The movements beat at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour. We already know that the benchmark standard for a well-running mechanical timepiece is 28,800 vibrations per hour – in other words – 8 beats per second. 

For the record, that’s more than enough for excellent accuracy, without imposing wear and tear on the delicate components of the movement. For a little perspective, due to the faster vibration rate of the Hi-Beat movements Grand Seiko was capable of producing (10 beats per second), these movements not only offered better accuracy but also higher resistance to shock. 

They also consumed more power from the mainspring. The 9S mainspring fitted to the heart of watches like the “Sekkei” for example, can produce a power reserve of 55 hours, making it particularly weekend-friendly movement.

The Strap

Starting with the lugs of the Grand Seiko SGBJ277, these are drilled, leading to a 21mm opening. Such a lug width is not as common as a 20mm lug width, so finding strap options will require a little extra vigilance to ensure you’re selecting the right size. 

That said, there are plenty of calf leather, alligator leather, and textile straps measuring 21mm on the market, as well as on the official GS website, that would be fun to play around with. I’d be particularly interested in seeing this watch on a dark green leather band to match the bezel details, but I also like the idea of a dark grey calfskin band. 

The stainless steel bracelet the watch naturally comes fitted on, however, tapers down to 18mm and features a milled folding clasp, signed with the GS logo, and a micro-adjustment feature for achieving a close, comfortable fit.

On-Wrist Experience

Watches with a 44.3mm diameter are obviously going to get some attention. If you like large watches, then don’t let the deets on paper put you off the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 “Sekkei”. 

Although slipping under the cuff of a shirt may not be its natural habitat, the watch is saved by the way it manages to belly out at the sides, spreading some of that depth. Topside, however, this watch is going to look like you’d imagine a watch of such proportions to look. Large and confident.

A double-domed sapphire crystal up top gives the dial plenty of protection but unfortunately, this does serve as a bit of a thickening agent on the case, giving it a somewhat chunkier aesthetic when you view it laterally.

Price and Availability

There is no scooting around the $7,200 price tag of the Grand Seiko SBGJ277. It’s expensive. But what do you get for this, exactly? Well, the mechanical Hi-Beat movement is a specialty of Grand Seiko’s, offering supreme accuracy and a high-end finish, as is the intricate craftsmanship of the case shape and the Zaratsu finishing.

It’s more expensive than the Spring Drive movement, and although with a Spring Drive, you can’t see the beats in the seconds hand, the clean sweep of the seconds hand in this Hi-Beat watch is just as impressive. The watch is part of the current Sports Collection, too, so you won’t need to worry about availability or sourcing one from Exquisite Timepieces.

The Takeaway

The Grand Seiko SBGJ277 is an impressively built, powered, and engineered GMT watch for travel. Its silvery white dial, when paired with that deep forest green bezel, makes time zone tracking an absolute delight. 

At 44.3mm the watch may sound large, but the case profile is what makes a difference to its wearability. The bracelet is the balancing ingredient to this recipe, and with micro-adjustments that help make it sit more snug against the skin, you’ll want to show off that snow-inspired dial all day long.

The Brilliance of Watch Lume and its Evolution 

Nina S

November 22, 2024

Watch lume is bright, fun, and very useful. It feels like it’s been around forever. In fact, it’s easy to take watch luminosity for granted. But think about how indispensable a material like this would have been in the early days before electricity was a thing in homes! 

Back then, all people could do was rely on audible features like those that chimed to tell the time. And even then, you had to be wealthy enough. Sonnaires and minute repeaters weren’t cheap by any stretch of the imagination! 

It was the 20th century that birthed the idea of a watch that could be read in the dark. That being said, the road wouldn’t be easy. In fact, watch luminescence has quite a murky back story… 

The Shady History of Lume  

Now, you may have heard of Polish physicist Marie Curie. She was the first and only female to win the Nobel Prize, not once but twice, but she also happened to be the leading chemist in the field of radioactivity. 

During her ground-breaking, history-defining work, she discovered two important elements: polonium and radium. The latter was radioactive and is a significant topic to cover when researching the history of watch luminosity. It was the first luminous material to find its way onto wristwatches during the early 1900s. 

To emphasize the seriousness of this radioactive element, it’s important to touch on the untimely death of Marie Curie herself, who passed away from symptoms related to prolonged exposure to the one material she revolutionized. 

We know of the effects of radioactivity now, but during radium’s heyday in watchmaking, the research simply wasn’t there. Sadly, we’d come to realize the damaging effects of this material on human health over time, but not before it was too late. 

Ironically, as is the case with many harmful chemicals, we once thought radium was good for us. Can you imagine? Just like smoking cigarettes, initially advertised as a relaxant and a healthy lifestyle choice – radium was historically considered an enhancement to human health rather than a hindrance.

Radium hair treatments were sold during the 1920s as luxurious products to indulge in, and those working in watchmaking facilities who were tasked with the job of applying radium to watch dials knew no better at the time. 

Named “The Radium Girls”, these female technicians would lick the tip of their paintbrush to achieve a finer point for radium application on the more delicate elements of a watch dial or clock display. 

Sadly, over time, watchmakers began realizing the effects that prolonged exposure to radium had on human health. The Radium Girls would experience several horrific symptoms such as their teeth falling out, pain around their face and head, and fatigue. 

Long-term exposure to the luminous material would even cause ”Radium Jaw” where the jawbone would weaken to the point at which it would crumble. These weren’t the only devastating side-effects of working with radium, either. Many women would go on to suffer from cancer.

Industry giant Rolex was using radium before the 1950s, right up until around 1963. The brand is a great example to research if you want to follow the evolution of watch lume in chronological order and visually see how watchmakers have adapted to the changes in luminous material over the decades.

Between the mid-1960s and up to around 1997, Rolex switched from radium to tritium (another material we’ll cover in detail shortly) before moving onto Super-LumiNova (naming it Chromalight). One reason for the switch to the more recent Super-LumiNova material was down to tritium’s short shelf life. 

The material would only last for around 12 years and would begin developing a patination that connoisseurs didn’t like. Ironically, the old radium-style luminosity and faded tritium dials are now a desirable feature in a watch, which many enthusiasts will pay considerable money for.

Since Super-LumiNova joined the scene in around 1997-1998, there have been a handful of iterations of the material. Several brands have created their own version of Super-LumiNova. Examples include Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight material and Seiko’s Lumibrite. Oh, and one other thing – Super-LumiNova isn’t radioactive at all, hence its popularity!

How does Watch Lume Work 

Lume is the term given to the luminescent material used on a watch dial to make it glow in dark conditions. It’s an integral feature for any tool or sports watch since it serves a very practical purpose, guiding the way to accurate, legible timekeeping when you may need it most. 

It, therefore, goes without saying that watch lume is particularly important for those who wear their watch to work at night or for outdoor exploration in particularly challenging conditions and harsh environments. The debate surrounding which brand offers the strongest lume is ongoing, but what we do know is how it works.

Since there are different forms of watch lume, how it works depends on whether you’re looking at photoluminescent material, electroluminescent material, or tritium gas tubes. 

While photoluminescent material absorbs light energy and emits a glow, electroluminescence is what you’ll likely see on the backlight of a digital or ana-digi watch. We’ll go through the various types of watch lume in this article and identify how each one differs from the other.  

What is Radium?

As mentioned, one of the revolutionary breakthroughs in luminescent material on watch dials came about during the time of the First World War. Soldiers began replacing their pocket watches with wrist-worn instruments and needed to depend on something concise and clear. Flashlights were forbidden since they would instantly give away a hidden location—cue luminous watch dials.

One of the first examples of a radium watch dial was the Radiomir watch developed by Florentine-based watchmaker Panerai. The Parisian company specialized in diving gear and precision instruments for the Italian Navy. 

The material in question was made from radium bromide, zinc sulfide, and mesothorium. After the hazardous effects of radium became common knowledge, however, the industry turned its attention to something safer. Tritium.

Today, the Radiomir watch by Panerai is still going strong, albeit without the harmful effects of radioactive material splashed all over its dial. Panerai combines Super-LumiNova features with a dial design that strays very little from the original and equips these watches with impressive power reserves (some of which last for up to 8 days). 

The Panerai Radiomir Black Seal 3 Days PAM00505 is a great example of a watch that fuses modern materials and technology with a classic, vintage-esque charm. For example, the Arabic numerals at the cardinal points on the dial are all finished in a beige-colored Super-LumiNova. This gives the watch an old-radium charm and a character that collectors adore.

Enter Tritium

Before we talk too much about Tritium, it’s worth mentioning a material called Promethium. Promethium played an integral role in the evolution of watch lume, even though it’s rarely mentioned or recognized in industry dialect today. 

Promethium replaced radium for a short period of time as a safer alternative. Yet, this less-radioactive material had a much shorter lifespan than the former. Promethium only lived for around two and a half years. 

When you compare this to radium’s 1600 years of life, you can soon see why this material never came close to the reliability and legibility of radium. Still, it didn’t cause people’s teeth to fall out and certainly carved a road for tritium. 

Tritium (H-3) was used directly on the surface of watch dials until the mid-1990s, and there were several pros and cons to using it as a luminous material. Firstly, it offered a better lifespan than Promethium. Tritium could last for around 12.5 years as opposed to Promethium’s 2.5 years. 

Sounds great, right? But there’s a downside. This material wasn’t entirely safe. Tritium is a beta-emitter. It’s safer than radium, but it’s still a radioactive isotope of Hydrogen, which, as a paint, had a way of seeping through the plastic caseback and diffusing through to the wearer’s skin.

To overcome this, brands began replacing the paint with gaseous tritium light sources. Ever heard of Ball Watch Company’s Light Emitting Technology? Right! So, these tightly sealed tubes safely store tritium and contain a phosphorus powder coating on the inside, which reacts with tritium when it releases electrons. 

Ball’s luminous technology is second to none in the field of luminous gas tubes. They’re small, precise, and lightweight. The company produces them using a CO2 laser before meticulously positioning them into place.

Perhaps no Ball Watch showcases the manufacturer’s expertise in this light tube technology more than the Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer Meteorite watch. The steel model, complete with a matching steel bracelet and a sapphire crystal glass front, is an automatic three-hander with rainbow-colored gas tubes that illuminate the hour markers and hands in dark conditions. 

If the meteorite dial wasn’t enough of a unique feature alone, the orange, pink, blue, green, and yellow indices put on a spectacular show after dark. With 100-meter water resistance and antimagnetic capabilities that protect the watch from up to 80,000 A/m, the Engineer III is a watch that has so much more going for it than the luminosity of its dial alone. 

Still, you can’t deny that the powerful presentation of those rainbow hour markers is certainly the star of the show at nightfall. 

Photoluminescence: Super-LumiNova 

Super-LumiNova actually takes its name from the brand that founded it back in 1993. The material is made up of strontium aluminate and photoluminescent pigments that are mixed together to form a non-toxic, luminous paint that glows beautifully in the dark. 

It differs from the tritium-filled gas tubes you see on a Ball watch since the latter is more a chemical reaction that causes a continuous glow, day or night. Super-LumiNova, however, glows at a level of brilliance that is unmatched but for a period of time only and creates an eye-catching spectacle that you can observe in any low-light environment.

If you consider yourself a modern watch collector, you’ll have heard the term Super-LumiNova creep up in conversations or even seen it listed in the spec details of most watches online. Super-LumiNova is a photoluminescent material, which means it absorbs light before emitting a long-lasting, brilliant glow. 

It succeeded the former LumiNova material, which became the go-to material to use after tritium. Surprisingly, the material was first discovered back in the 1960s and was used in cathode ray tubes. However, it was much later before the watch industry embraced the fluorescent qualities of LumiNova.

This non-radioactive substance poses no threat to human health, making it a no-brainer for modern tool watches. The only downside to Super-LumiNova is that it needs to be charged with sufficient light before it will glow for a limited period of darkness. 

Therefore, if a watch is left in a dark drawer, it will need charging before you can expect to see a gleaming dial at night. Its intensity also decreases over time once charged. The material’s quality and the light source’s intensity determine how well a dial stays illuminated, especially since the duration of a Super-LuiNova-coated dial can vary from half an hour to 15 hours.

One of the key advantages of Super-LumiNova is that it can charge and recharge an unlimited amount of times and share no wear and tear. Unlike radium and tritium, which degrades over time, this more modern material has a much longer lifespan. It’s also available in a plethora of different colors!

Of course, one of the most common variations of Super-LumiNova is Seiko’s Lumibrite material, which is widely featured throughout the brand’s dive watch range. Entirely safe for humans and based largely on the more famous Super-LumiNova material, Lumibrite contains zero toxic ingredients and is free from radioactive substances. 

Since it works in the same way as the more common LumiNova, Lumibrite effectively absorbs light and then stores it before radiating a strong and impressive glow that can last up to 5 or 6 hours or more.

The Seiko Prospex Alpinist is one of the brand’s most collectible adventure watches, with a history intrinsically linked with alpine pursuits. In 2020, it became part of the Prospex collection, with models like the SPB121 now representing some of the brand’s finest examples. 

This model reimagines the original 1951 sports watch with an inner rotating compass, robust steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, Lumibrite hour markers, and cathedral hands.

Electroluminescence; a Glow with an Electrical Flow

So, we know that photoluminescent materials absorb light energy before emitting a rich glow. Electroluminescence is when light is produced as a result of an electrical current passing through a phosphorus material. 

In watches, an electric conductor-coated plastic or glass panel is mounted behind the dial, and when a button is activated, it delivers an electrical current. The phosphor reacts and acts as a backlight. One of the most common examples of this technology can be found in Timex’s famous Indiglo watches, but other affordable watch companies use it, too, like Casio. 

The rugged Casio G-Shock Mudmaster is an ana-digi watch with bucket loads of wrist presence thanks to a powerful 52mm resin case. 

Rugged and durable, its robust exterior packs a whole load of functionality into the wrist, including double LED lights, a Location Indicator feature, 200 meters of water resistance, solar power charging, and features that also measure altitude and barometeic pressure. 

Additional features include a mission log, world timezones, phone finder, alarms, and, of course, a backlight, combined with luminous material on the analog details for traditional timekeeping. 

Watch Lume – Just How Important Is It?

You only need to watch a YouTube video or two to see just how ga-ga collectors go over a watch with lume. You’ll see shots of it completely in the dark for full effect, while watch modders may even try their hand at painting it on a dial if they’re feeling extra adventurous. 

Considering Super-LumiNova is no more than the horological version of glow-in-the-dark paint, it’s only natural to question why enthusiasts love it so much. But they do, and that’s partly to do with how important it is on a functional level.

Admittedly, when a watch dial is fully charged, a Super-LumiNova watch has a captivating effect on its wearer, especially if done right. So, you can imagine the appeal of a fully lumed dial. The likes of Bell & Ross, DOXA, IWC, TAG Heuer, and Zodiac have all dabbled in this field. Heck, even affordable solar-power specialists Citizen have dipped their toe in fully lume dials! 

But whether a fully-coated dial or not, you’re always going to want to read the time in the dark. Case in point, there is always a need for lume on a practical watch, but should it always be a deliberate consideration? 

Absolutely not. Even the geekiest of watch lume nerds will agree that there is a style and a design that calls for Super-LumiNova, and it would certainly look out of place on an elegant 18k dress watch.

Conclusion

Sometimes, it can feel like manufacturers are just ticking a box when adding features like Super-LumiNova to a watch, but as long as a timepiece is the sporty, functional, practical type – it will always serve a useful purpose. 

Being able to read the time while hundreds of meters under the ocean’s surface, while out fishing at night, while mountain climbing, cave exploring, or navigating the skies in the dead of night – watch luminosity will always have a place on the dial of a good quality tool watch.

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