Author: Nina S

If you want to know what makes the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 “Sekkei” so special, I mean really peel back the layers to the design, you likely already know a thing or two about watches. In fact, you’ve probably lost yourself down the odd rabbit hole or two before now. 

They have a knack of getting under your skin. And, like me, you probably feel that press releases and basic reviews don’t cover the level of detail you need when you’re about to make a substantial investment in a watch, right? 

For me, a large part of quelling that curiosity and intrigue about a watch is understanding and learning about what keeps it ticking. Luckily, for a watch like the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 – the beating heart is a large part of its design. 

A Quick Overview of the Grand Seiko SBGJ277

Grand Seiko is heralded as one of the world’s greatest leaders in mechanical accuracy and has a backstory that outlines a rich tapestry of movement manufacture – each one pinpointing an important landmark and detailing the evolution of the company. 

When Grand Seiko launches a new product, it automatically becomes part of that backstory, like the “Sekkei” or “Snow Valley” – a GMT with a splendid color variation that arrived during Watches & Wonders earlier this year. It carries a movement from the 9S Calibre series, which ultimately became a philosophy of sorts. 

In fact, several models that adopted this same design language were designed by a CAD/CAM system and played a crucial role in forming the backbone of many Grand Seiko designs that followed. Furthermore, what made these innovative designs special was their ability to deliver a mechanical accuracy that previous models had never reached before.  

That series still runs today, and you can find some of its finest examples in models like the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 “Sekkei” – a design inspired by a phenomenon that occurs across the tops of Japan’s luscious mountains during the summer. 

If you’re ready to add a practical and super-accurate watch with tons of sartorial elegance to your collection, prepare yourself for the “Sekkei” – a watch that joins a stable of other snow-inspired dials and one that I feel equally deserves as much recognition as the coveted “Snowflake” itself. 

The “Snow Valley” has to be one of my favorite Grand Seiko watches of all. It speaks a language of intelligence, sophistication, and elegance. The green color on the GMT bezel, although deep, does pop on the wrist, and the texture of the dial is great for wearing on most occasions. 

Although the dimensions look large on paper, this is a watch that’s going to wear smaller on the wrist. I’d say it will work well for anything over a 7.5-inch wrist. On top of all that, the mechanical movement inside is not easy to manufacture, which, for me, is part of the appeal. 

And although Spring Drive is what many connoisseurs consider the pinnacle of Grand Seiko’s mechanical prowess – I happen to think differently. While we’re on that note, there’s a reason why this watch costs more than some Spring Drive watches, and I’m going to outline some of them in this review. 

The Background Behind the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 

There is nothing new about Grand Seiko watches taking inspiration from nature. The vast, picturesque landscapes surrounding the brand’s design studios form a backdrop that has long been a source of inspiration for some of the brand’s most beautiful handcrafted dials. 

But snow in the summer is not something we see every day, and, like many natural phenomena, Grand Seiko chooses to celebrate this seasonal spectacle with another meticulously crafted dial. 

At Grand Seiko, the dials do all the talking. They tell the story of the brand through chapters. Many designs, just like the SBGJ277 “Sekkei”, are guided by the company’s “Nature of Time” philosophy. 

And while most fans of the brand will already be familiar with the “Snowflake” watch, there are other distinct dials worth mentioning at this point. Take, for example, the SBGJ201, with a dial inspired by the exposed mountain face of Mt. Iwate, or the ref. SBGJ251, which mimics the verdant boom of the spring equinox? 

There’s the Birch tree-textured dial of the Grand Seiko SLGH005 and models inspired by the rippling waters of ponds and lakes in Japan’s summertime. From the colors and the textures of the country’s 24 changing seasons (or sekki”) to ice formations, falling blossoms, and the growth rings of an ancient tree – Grand Seiko is dedicated to showing the truest expression of its work in all that it does. So, let’s take a closer look.

A Deceptively Manageable Case

So, here are the all-important case dimensions you’ll need to know if you’re seriously considering adding the “Snow Valley” watch to your collection. The case diameter measures 42.4mm, and the thickness – 14.4mm. The case length is 50.6mm, while the lug width is 20.8mm. The crystal diameter on this watch is 31.4mm. 

What I particularly like straight up about this case is the matt finish GS experts give to the top of the lugs. It donates a modest edge to the design, making it easier to pair with casual attire as well as something dressy.

The polished case sides are not just any polished sides, either. They’re the signature Zaratsu polish that Grand Seiko is so renowned for. The crown is another eye-catching feature. Being a sports watch, experts at Grand Seiko position it at the 4 o’clock location, engraving it with the GS logo on the surface. 

The first thing I noticed about the bezel when I turned the case to the side is that it sits slightly above the case top, sealing to a domed sapphire crystal glass that provides adequate protection over that beautifully textured dial. The bezel (which moves bidirectionally), along with the dial, is the star of the show in this design and serves a dual purpose.

As if often seen in GMT watches, the bezel is segregated into nighttime and daytime hours. The nighttime hours are represented in the deepest green color – a shade that almost looks black under certain lights. Grand Seiko designers apply the numerals between 18 and 6 in white, while the remainder showcases the opposite – the daytime hours in white with deep green numerals. 

I like this juxtaposition. It’s a rare and alluring one that interacts beautifully with the nuances of the snow-effect dial texture. Smoother and quieter than a dive watch bezel, aligning the bezel with the GMT hand is an absolute breeze and certainly adds a fun edge to shifting across time zones with a companion like this. One more note on the bezel – its green proportions interestingly take up more real estate than the white, which adds a rather unusual dimension to the design.

Another Snow-Inspired Dial

Representing the beauty of the snowy valleys that form the landscape surrounding Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi studio, the SBGJ227 is not the first to capture this unique location, as we know. 

Popular for its cold winters and mild summers, this region of Iwate hosts several special species of alpine flora, a rugged scenic shoreline, National Trust parks, crisp ski resorts, and a dusting of powdery snow atop its mountainous regions all year through, even in the summer. It is this particular phenomenon that Grand Seiko skilfully captures across the milky white nuances of its beautifully textured dial. 

I love the layers, dramatic drops, and contrasting levels across the dial. Although subtle, they almost look like folding sheets of fabric draped on top of one another. Sometimes, the silvery nuances look nearly iridescent, and at other times, they mimic the look of silk or satin as they catch the light in ways unique to the Grand Seiko style. 

Grand Seiko experts finish the indices on this dial to perfection, with rectangular-shaped appliques featuring around the hour track, along with rhomboid hour markers at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock locations. 

Black minute sticks feature between each hour marker and a bi-color hour track can be found around the flange. Decorated in the same way as the bezel, the additional 24-hour track is finished in white and green, offering the advantage of a third timezone. The dauphine hands are squared off at the tip, creating a crisp and legible profile to track at a glance whenever you need to check the time while on the go.

Following the GMT hand is easy, too. Trimmed in deep green,  it features a triangular tip filled with luminous material to assist with timekeeping in the dark. Meanwhile, the silver, luminous-treated hour and minute hands are joined by a sweeping second hand that glides effortlessly across the snow-inspired dial. 

Of course, it’s the Hi-Beat movement that propels this hand with such grace and decorum. Even though the smoothly sweeping hand is a given in any Hi-Beat watch from Grand Seiko, it’s still a huge gain for me. Look to the 3 o’clock location, and you’ll find the date set behind a color-matched background for legibility, too.

10 Beats Per Second

The Grand Seiko “Snow Valley” watch belongs to the brand’s Sports Collection and takes inspiration from the original 44GS watch, released in the 1960s. That model housed a 10-beat manual movement that promised levels of the highest accuracy. 

Leveraged by the invention of new alloys and components, Grand Seiko moved closer, inch-by-inch, to achieving the “ideal” watch, making a lasting contribution to the global standard in watchmaking precision. These specially adjusted hi-beat movements set the bar in accuracy and, for over half a century have been manufactured in-house at Grand Seiko – thus the Grand Seiko SBGJ277.

Where else would a sports watch like this be built than at the company’s Shizukuishi Studio? After all, it is the birthplace of the brand’s proprietary Hi-Beat movement. 

From the entry-level Calibre 9S85 to the state-of-the-art, all-bells-and-whistles Calibre 9SA5 with dual impulse escapement – these ateliers offer quite the public experience – a place where collectors can let their horological dreams play out before their eyes as they absorb the atmosphere of one of the world’s most impressive nerve centers of precision timekeeping. 

Grand Seiko collectors can schedule a tour of the place and immerse themselves in an educational mystery tour of calibers, artifacts, and workshops that tell the story of the brand thus far. The studio opened in 2020 – three years after the company became an entirely separate brand from Seiko Watch Corporation and marked the 60th anniversary of the brand. 

Here, the fabrication of the components for each movement and the assembly and finishing of a watch is a very unified front. All parts of a Grand Seiko watch seem to work with a sense of equilibrium with one another, and the movement has a large part to play in that. 

Grand Seiko’s Hi-Beat movements are not all that common in watches today. The movements beat at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour. We already know that the benchmark standard for a well-running mechanical timepiece is 28,800 vibrations per hour – in other words – 8 beats per second. 

For the record, that’s more than enough for excellent accuracy, without imposing wear and tear on the delicate components of the movement. For a little perspective, due to the faster vibration rate of the Hi-Beat movements Grand Seiko was capable of producing (10 beats per second), these movements not only offered better accuracy but also higher resistance to shock. 

They also consumed more power from the mainspring. The 9S mainspring fitted to the heart of watches like the “Sekkei” for example, can produce a power reserve of 55 hours, making it particularly weekend-friendly movement.

The Strap

Starting with the lugs of the Grand Seiko SGBJ277, these are drilled, leading to a 21mm opening. Such a lug width is not as common as a 20mm lug width, so finding strap options will require a little extra vigilance to ensure you’re selecting the right size. 

That said, there are plenty of calf leather, alligator leather, and textile straps measuring 21mm on the market, as well as on the official GS website, that would be fun to play around with. I’d be particularly interested in seeing this watch on a dark green leather band to match the bezel details, but I also like the idea of a dark grey calfskin band. 

The stainless steel bracelet the watch naturally comes fitted on, however, tapers down to 18mm and features a milled folding clasp, signed with the GS logo, and a micro-adjustment feature for achieving a close, comfortable fit.

On-Wrist Experience

Watches with a 44.3mm diameter are obviously going to get some attention. If you like large watches, then don’t let the deets on paper put you off the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 “Sekkei”. 

Although slipping under the cuff of a shirt may not be its natural habitat, the watch is saved by the way it manages to belly out at the sides, spreading some of that depth. Topside, however, this watch is going to look like you’d imagine a watch of such proportions to look. Large and confident.

A double-domed sapphire crystal up top gives the dial plenty of protection but unfortunately, this does serve as a bit of a thickening agent on the case, giving it a somewhat chunkier aesthetic when you view it laterally.

Price and Availability

There is no scooting around the $7,200 price tag of the Grand Seiko SBGJ277. It’s expensive. But what do you get for this, exactly? Well, the mechanical Hi-Beat movement is a specialty of Grand Seiko’s, offering supreme accuracy and a high-end finish, as is the intricate craftsmanship of the case shape and the Zaratsu finishing.

It’s more expensive than the Spring Drive movement, and although with a Spring Drive, you can’t see the beats in the seconds hand, the clean sweep of the seconds hand in this Hi-Beat watch is just as impressive. The watch is part of the current Sports Collection, too, so you won’t need to worry about availability or sourcing one from Exquisite Timepieces.

The Takeaway

The Grand Seiko SBGJ277 is an impressively built, powered, and engineered GMT watch for travel. Its silvery white dial, when paired with that deep forest green bezel, makes time zone tracking an absolute delight. 

At 44.3mm the watch may sound large, but the case profile is what makes a difference to its wearability. The bracelet is the balancing ingredient to this recipe, and with micro-adjustments that help make it sit more snug against the skin, you’ll want to show off that snow-inspired dial all day long.

Watch lume is bright, fun, and very useful. It feels like it’s been around forever. In fact, it’s easy to take watch luminosity for granted. But think about how indispensable a material like this would have been in the early days before electricity was a thing in homes! 

Back then, all people could do was rely on audible features like those that chimed to tell the time. And even then, you had to be wealthy enough. Sonnaires and minute repeaters weren’t cheap by any stretch of the imagination! 

It was the 20th century that birthed the idea of a watch that could be read in the dark. That being said, the road wouldn’t be easy. In fact, watch luminescence has quite a murky back story… 

The Shady History of Lume  

Now, you may have heard of Polish physicist Marie Curie. She was the first and only female to win the Nobel Prize, not once but twice, but she also happened to be the leading chemist in the field of radioactivity. 

During her ground-breaking, history-defining work, she discovered two important elements: polonium and radium. The latter was radioactive and is a significant topic to cover when researching the history of watch luminosity. It was the first luminous material to find its way onto wristwatches during the early 1900s. 

To emphasize the seriousness of this radioactive element, it’s important to touch on the untimely death of Marie Curie herself, who passed away from symptoms related to prolonged exposure to the one material she revolutionized. 

We know of the effects of radioactivity now, but during radium’s heyday in watchmaking, the research simply wasn’t there. Sadly, we’d come to realize the damaging effects of this material on human health over time, but not before it was too late. 

Ironically, as is the case with many harmful chemicals, we once thought radium was good for us. Can you imagine? Just like smoking cigarettes, initially advertised as a relaxant and a healthy lifestyle choice – radium was historically considered an enhancement to human health rather than a hindrance.

Radium hair treatments were sold during the 1920s as luxurious products to indulge in, and those working in watchmaking facilities who were tasked with the job of applying radium to watch dials knew no better at the time. 

Named “The Radium Girls”, these female technicians would lick the tip of their paintbrush to achieve a finer point for radium application on the more delicate elements of a watch dial or clock display. 

Sadly, over time, watchmakers began realizing the effects that prolonged exposure to radium had on human health. The Radium Girls would experience several horrific symptoms such as their teeth falling out, pain around their face and head, and fatigue. 

Long-term exposure to the luminous material would even cause ”Radium Jaw” where the jawbone would weaken to the point at which it would crumble. These weren’t the only devastating side-effects of working with radium, either. Many women would go on to suffer from cancer.

Industry giant Rolex was using radium before the 1950s, right up until around 1963. The brand is a great example to research if you want to follow the evolution of watch lume in chronological order and visually see how watchmakers have adapted to the changes in luminous material over the decades.

Between the mid-1960s and up to around 1997, Rolex switched from radium to tritium (another material we’ll cover in detail shortly) before moving onto Super-LumiNova (naming it Chromalight). One reason for the switch to the more recent Super-LumiNova material was down to tritium’s short shelf life. 

The material would only last for around 12 years and would begin developing a patination that connoisseurs didn’t like. Ironically, the old radium-style luminosity and faded tritium dials are now a desirable feature in a watch, which many enthusiasts will pay considerable money for.

Since Super-LumiNova joined the scene in around 1997-1998, there have been a handful of iterations of the material. Several brands have created their own version of Super-LumiNova. Examples include Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight material and Seiko’s Lumibrite. Oh, and one other thing – Super-LumiNova isn’t radioactive at all, hence its popularity!

How does Watch Lume Work 

Lume is the term given to the luminescent material used on a watch dial to make it glow in dark conditions. It’s an integral feature for any tool or sports watch since it serves a very practical purpose, guiding the way to accurate, legible timekeeping when you may need it most. 

It, therefore, goes without saying that watch lume is particularly important for those who wear their watch to work at night or for outdoor exploration in particularly challenging conditions and harsh environments. The debate surrounding which brand offers the strongest lume is ongoing, but what we do know is how it works.

Since there are different forms of watch lume, how it works depends on whether you’re looking at photoluminescent material, electroluminescent material, or tritium gas tubes. 

While photoluminescent material absorbs light energy and emits a glow, electroluminescence is what you’ll likely see on the backlight of a digital or ana-digi watch. We’ll go through the various types of watch lume in this article and identify how each one differs from the other.  

What is Radium?

As mentioned, one of the revolutionary breakthroughs in luminescent material on watch dials came about during the time of the First World War. Soldiers began replacing their pocket watches with wrist-worn instruments and needed to depend on something concise and clear. Flashlights were forbidden since they would instantly give away a hidden location—cue luminous watch dials.

One of the first examples of a radium watch dial was the Radiomir watch developed by Florentine-based watchmaker Panerai. The Parisian company specialized in diving gear and precision instruments for the Italian Navy. 

The material in question was made from radium bromide, zinc sulfide, and mesothorium. After the hazardous effects of radium became common knowledge, however, the industry turned its attention to something safer. Tritium.

Today, the Radiomir watch by Panerai is still going strong, albeit without the harmful effects of radioactive material splashed all over its dial. Panerai combines Super-LumiNova features with a dial design that strays very little from the original and equips these watches with impressive power reserves (some of which last for up to 8 days). 

The Panerai Radiomir Black Seal 3 Days PAM00505 is a great example of a watch that fuses modern materials and technology with a classic, vintage-esque charm. For example, the Arabic numerals at the cardinal points on the dial are all finished in a beige-colored Super-LumiNova. This gives the watch an old-radium charm and a character that collectors adore.

Enter Tritium

Before we talk too much about Tritium, it’s worth mentioning a material called Promethium. Promethium played an integral role in the evolution of watch lume, even though it’s rarely mentioned or recognized in industry dialect today. 

Promethium replaced radium for a short period of time as a safer alternative. Yet, this less-radioactive material had a much shorter lifespan than the former. Promethium only lived for around two and a half years. 

When you compare this to radium’s 1600 years of life, you can soon see why this material never came close to the reliability and legibility of radium. Still, it didn’t cause people’s teeth to fall out and certainly carved a road for tritium. 

Tritium (H-3) was used directly on the surface of watch dials until the mid-1990s, and there were several pros and cons to using it as a luminous material. Firstly, it offered a better lifespan than Promethium. Tritium could last for around 12.5 years as opposed to Promethium’s 2.5 years. 

Sounds great, right? But there’s a downside. This material wasn’t entirely safe. Tritium is a beta-emitter. It’s safer than radium, but it’s still a radioactive isotope of Hydrogen, which, as a paint, had a way of seeping through the plastic caseback and diffusing through to the wearer’s skin.

To overcome this, brands began replacing the paint with gaseous tritium light sources. Ever heard of Ball Watch Company’s Light Emitting Technology? Right! So, these tightly sealed tubes safely store tritium and contain a phosphorus powder coating on the inside, which reacts with tritium when it releases electrons. 

Ball’s luminous technology is second to none in the field of luminous gas tubes. They’re small, precise, and lightweight. The company produces them using a CO2 laser before meticulously positioning them into place.

Perhaps no Ball Watch showcases the manufacturer’s expertise in this light tube technology more than the Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer Meteorite watch. The steel model, complete with a matching steel bracelet and a sapphire crystal glass front, is an automatic three-hander with rainbow-colored gas tubes that illuminate the hour markers and hands in dark conditions. 

If the meteorite dial wasn’t enough of a unique feature alone, the orange, pink, blue, green, and yellow indices put on a spectacular show after dark. With 100-meter water resistance and antimagnetic capabilities that protect the watch from up to 80,000 A/m, the Engineer III is a watch that has so much more going for it than the luminosity of its dial alone. 

Still, you can’t deny that the powerful presentation of those rainbow hour markers is certainly the star of the show at nightfall. 

Photoluminescence: Super-LumiNova 

Super-LumiNova actually takes its name from the brand that founded it back in 1993. The material is made up of strontium aluminate and photoluminescent pigments that are mixed together to form a non-toxic, luminous paint that glows beautifully in the dark. 

It differs from the tritium-filled gas tubes you see on a Ball watch since the latter is more a chemical reaction that causes a continuous glow, day or night. Super-LumiNova, however, glows at a level of brilliance that is unmatched but for a period of time only and creates an eye-catching spectacle that you can observe in any low-light environment.

If you consider yourself a modern watch collector, you’ll have heard the term Super-LumiNova creep up in conversations or even seen it listed in the spec details of most watches online. Super-LumiNova is a photoluminescent material, which means it absorbs light before emitting a long-lasting, brilliant glow. 

It succeeded the former LumiNova material, which became the go-to material to use after tritium. Surprisingly, the material was first discovered back in the 1960s and was used in cathode ray tubes. However, it was much later before the watch industry embraced the fluorescent qualities of LumiNova.

This non-radioactive substance poses no threat to human health, making it a no-brainer for modern tool watches. The only downside to Super-LumiNova is that it needs to be charged with sufficient light before it will glow for a limited period of darkness. 

Therefore, if a watch is left in a dark drawer, it will need charging before you can expect to see a gleaming dial at night. Its intensity also decreases over time once charged. The material’s quality and the light source’s intensity determine how well a dial stays illuminated, especially since the duration of a Super-LuiNova-coated dial can vary from half an hour to 15 hours.

One of the key advantages of Super-LumiNova is that it can charge and recharge an unlimited amount of times and share no wear and tear. Unlike radium and tritium, which degrades over time, this more modern material has a much longer lifespan. It’s also available in a plethora of different colors!

Of course, one of the most common variations of Super-LumiNova is Seiko’s Lumibrite material, which is widely featured throughout the brand’s dive watch range. Entirely safe for humans and based largely on the more famous Super-LumiNova material, Lumibrite contains zero toxic ingredients and is free from radioactive substances. 

Since it works in the same way as the more common LumiNova, Lumibrite effectively absorbs light and then stores it before radiating a strong and impressive glow that can last up to 5 or 6 hours or more.

The Seiko Prospex Alpinist is one of the brand’s most collectible adventure watches, with a history intrinsically linked with alpine pursuits. In 2020, it became part of the Prospex collection, with models like the SPB121 now representing some of the brand’s finest examples. 

This model reimagines the original 1951 sports watch with an inner rotating compass, robust steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, Lumibrite hour markers, and cathedral hands.

Electroluminescence; a Glow with an Electrical Flow

So, we know that photoluminescent materials absorb light energy before emitting a rich glow. Electroluminescence is when light is produced as a result of an electrical current passing through a phosphorus material. 

In watches, an electric conductor-coated plastic or glass panel is mounted behind the dial, and when a button is activated, it delivers an electrical current. The phosphor reacts and acts as a backlight. One of the most common examples of this technology can be found in Timex’s famous Indiglo watches, but other affordable watch companies use it, too, like Casio. 

The rugged Casio G-Shock Mudmaster is an ana-digi watch with bucket loads of wrist presence thanks to a powerful 52mm resin case. 

Rugged and durable, its robust exterior packs a whole load of functionality into the wrist, including double LED lights, a Location Indicator feature, 200 meters of water resistance, solar power charging, and features that also measure altitude and barometeic pressure. 

Additional features include a mission log, world timezones, phone finder, alarms, and, of course, a backlight, combined with luminous material on the analog details for traditional timekeeping. 

Watch Lume – Just How Important Is It?

You only need to watch a YouTube video or two to see just how ga-ga collectors go over a watch with lume. You’ll see shots of it completely in the dark for full effect, while watch modders may even try their hand at painting it on a dial if they’re feeling extra adventurous. 

Considering Super-LumiNova is no more than the horological version of glow-in-the-dark paint, it’s only natural to question why enthusiasts love it so much. But they do, and that’s partly to do with how important it is on a functional level.

Admittedly, when a watch dial is fully charged, a Super-LumiNova watch has a captivating effect on its wearer, especially if done right. So, you can imagine the appeal of a fully lumed dial. The likes of Bell & Ross, DOXA, IWC, TAG Heuer, and Zodiac have all dabbled in this field. Heck, even affordable solar-power specialists Citizen have dipped their toe in fully lume dials! 

But whether a fully-coated dial or not, you’re always going to want to read the time in the dark. Case in point, there is always a need for lume on a practical watch, but should it always be a deliberate consideration? 

Absolutely not. Even the geekiest of watch lume nerds will agree that there is a style and a design that calls for Super-LumiNova, and it would certainly look out of place on an elegant 18k dress watch.

Conclusion

Sometimes, it can feel like manufacturers are just ticking a box when adding features like Super-LumiNova to a watch, but as long as a timepiece is the sporty, functional, practical type – it will always serve a useful purpose. 

Being able to read the time while hundreds of meters under the ocean’s surface, while out fishing at night, while mountain climbing, cave exploring, or navigating the skies in the dead of night – watch luminosity will always have a place on the dial of a good quality tool watch.

When you go for an interview, making a good first impression is paramount. Match those shoes with your belt, and, for goodness sake, pick a tasteful tie! Whether you get the job or not, that initial outfit matters. It needs to tell the workplace that you take pride in your appearance and that the job really matters to you. Your interview attire will speak for you, a little like how the dial of a watch gives you an initial glimpse into the manufacturer, the style, and the purpose of the timepiece.

Styles of Hands and Their Importance

The hands on a watch play a huge role in providing a window to the soul of the watch and the message behind it. And the vast array of styles you’re likely to stumble upon when exploring this avenue sure does make timekeeping more diverse and interesting!

Essentially, all watch hands have the same job. They should be able to point to the hours, minutes, and (sometimes) the seconds clearly on display and should convey the essence of that timepiece, both in style and character. 

In this guide to 11 of the most popular dial hands, we’ll look at the secrets behind each design and which brands are most recognized for a specific style. Let’s kick things off with the most common of all. 

Baton Hands

When I think of the classic baton hand, it automatically conjures images of iconic sports watches of the 1970s. That’s not to say that watchmakers aren’t using baton hands in luxury watches today (they certainly are!). But many brands adopted the baton hand when creating the sports-luxe watch, including those like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Rolex Day-Date – both grail watches, by the way! Even the Genta-designed Royal Oak promoted the baton handset. 

Could we accuse Gerald Genta of being rather unadventurous when we look at his baton-bearing accomplishments? Maybe. But you could also say the batons were a complete stroke of genius. They looked unapologetically simple on the dial and allowed for the polygonal machine-like features of his greatest sports watch to truly shine. 

Baton hands are characterized by their elongated, rectangular profile, which is often featured in dress watches. I happen to really like the baton hand design. It’s not trying to be anything it isn’t. It’s a no-frills type of hand that will make itself at home in any style of watch, be it chronographs, pilot’s watches, or GMTs. 

Sometimes, the hands are flat; sometimes, they are bluntly rounded at the tip. Either way, I think they look great on utilitarian tool watches like the Bell & Ross BR 05 – a watch that is instantly recognizable for its famous circle-within-a-square profile.

Sword Hands 

What I like about the sword-shaped hand is its ability to dress a watch up or down, depending on the design in question. If I were to ask you what makes a dress watch look so dressy, you may struggle to identify any one element in particular. 

But the central bridge that runs along the middle of a set of sword hands can catch the sun beautifully, adding shards of light across a display and enhancing a refined aesthetic. Take it away from the dress watch, and suddenly, the timepiece loses its classic, understated charm.

Sword hands are very popular and versatile. Defined by straight sides and a triangular, tapering tip reminiscent of a sword’s blade, they have been around since the 20th century and can be long and slim or short and wide in character. 

One of the most popular collectibles of all time is the Cartier Tank, with its signature blued steel sword-shaped hands that glide across a traditional Roman numeral display. In many cases, Cartier experts combine the sword handset with a striking blue cabochon spinel on the top of the crown. 

Whether you’re exploring the Tank collection, the Santos de Cartier line, or the effortlessly elegant bubble-shaped Ballon de Bleu watch, you’ll recognize the sword-shaped hands as a strong character element within some of Cartier’s greatest designs.   

Dauphine Hands

You may instantly associate Grand Seiko with its exquisite Zaratsu case polishing techniques or its entrancing hand-executed dials. Both are equally impressive, so I wouldn’t blame you. However, around 80% of the company’s watches also feature the dauphine hand, rather than the laser-cut hands we often associate with GS timepieces. 

Grand Seiko watches are characterized by blade-like bevels and perfectly finished case facets. These finishes create mirror-like distortion-free case angles and include the diamond-milled hand tips that you can see on designs from the Heritage collection.

It is thought that dauphine hands first began emerging during the 1940s, taking inspiration from the profile of a dolphin. They certainly share some of the elegance of the majestic marine mammal. The style comprises a tapered triangular or diamond tip. More often than not, you’ll see Grand Seiko refer to this dial element as a razor hand. 

Quite frankly, trying to capture the beauty and refinement of the dauphine hands on a Grand Seiko watch through images will never serve them justice. You simply need some time with the watch and an opportunity to tilt the case under the light at just the right angle. When the light hits the faceted edges of a GS dauphine hand, that crisp reflection of light is second to none. 

Leaf Hands

Leaf hands are often referred to as feuille hands and, as their name would suggest, call to mind the organic shape of a plant leaf. Their elegant, minimalist form lends a dial an air of subtle sophistication and formality, making them a particularly popular option for the common dress watch. 

The shape of this style of dial hand takes on a wide middle with a gently tapering tip. Often, the shape is echoed in the hand of a small seconds subsidiary, too, or in the sub-counters of a chronograph dial.

Feuille hands and leaf hands are one of my favorite styles. There is something satisfyingly accurate about their slender, sloping frames. The point at the tip of the minute hand, for example, gives a very clear indication of the time, leaving little room for error.

Like Moser & Cie, which offers a range of designs showcasing the slender leaf-like hand, IWC Schaffhausen also uses the handset for some of its more refined timepieces. Take, for example, the Portofino watch. 

IWC heavily draws inspiration from the relaxed way of life experienced in the Italian fishing village and features leaf-shaped dial hands, which gracefully sweep over several dial colors and arrangements. Some accompaniments to the leaf hand include power reserve indicators, small seconds sub-counters, moon phase complications, and the perpetual calendar. 

Alpha Hands

The alpha hand was quite a prevalent design during the 1950s and 1960s. Although it slightly favored the dress watch, many other genres carried the style tastefully, including more casually styled timepieces on leather bands. 

Rolex, IWC, Piaget, and A. Lange & Sohne have all used the alpha hand in their designs. The shape of this handset resembles the dauphine hand, albeit with a thinner neck and a longer tip.

The design is associated with the Greek letter “Alpha” and is also adopted by the manufacturer of the popular Tonda watch – Parmigiani Fleurier. Simple, understated, and pared-back, the alpha watch does its job of telling the time clearly and is one of the most versatile styles to find on the dial of a watch. 

Sometimes, the alpha hand design can appear openworked on a dial. At other times, a brand may choose to treat the surface of the hands with luminous material and place them upon a skeletonized dial, as seen in the Schaumburg Glacier Hand Made watch.

Syringe Hands

Syringe watch hands are unmistakable. They feature a barrel-shaped body and a needle-sharp pointer that indicates the time of day with a sense of confidence and precision. The history of the syringe hand is uncertain, but earlier Omega watches of the 1940s feature the style.

Today, Patek Philippe is perhaps best known for its use of the syringe hand. Back in 2019, the prestigious manufacturer launched the reference 5172G, featuring a white gold case, a dramatic blue dial, and, upon it, a set of crisply carved syringe hands that stretched out to kiss a set of legible white Arabic numerals. 

Quite literal in their nomenclature, they evoke the shape of a medical syringe but were frequently used in the design of the pilot’s watch. You’ll also see them in field watches, accompanied by a graduated minute track, and they have also been featured in the designs of German tool watch manufacturer Sinn.

Syringe hands, whether on a pilot watch, a Patek watch, or a field watch, give me classic yesteryear vibes and look like they’ve literally stepped off a vintage fighter jet. Luckily, the market for pilot’s watches and on-board instrument-inspired designs is still in high demand, so we’ll likely be seeing the syringe hand for many years to come. 

Arrow Hands

Arrow hands are exactly what their name would suggest – watch dial hands in the shape of an arrow. You’ll often see them on sports watches, like the Speedmaster and the 1950s Seamaster Planet Ocean. The brand ushered in this style alongside its Railmaster watch during this era, combining the arrow tip with the triangular shaft. 

Omega then retired this “Broad Arrow” design years ago, yet the demand for the vintage-inspired dive watch has brought the style back onto Omega watch dials in recent years. Aside from being an Omega trademark, the classic arrow hand appears on pilot’s watches, too.

One element of this design that is largely beneficial for legibility is its ability to feature plenty of Super-LumiNova material on its surface. In many examples., the hour hand on a watch is defined by an arrow tip, and the minute hand is the dauphine profile. 

Over the last few years, there has been a resurgence in the arrow hand, despite it being more popular last century. Dive watches also commonly sport the arrow hand since it serves such a useful and legible purpose underwater. The Seiko Prospex Turtle is a great example of such, imparting a sense of boldness, stealth, and power with its highly distinguishable shape.

Cathedral Hands

When you gaze into the cathedral hands of a watch’s dial, they immediately evoke the stained glass windows of an old church or the steep turrets that reach out on a Gothic cathedral. There are no prizes for guessing why and how these hands acquired their name. The cathedral hand is ornate and detailed and adds a layer of depth to any timepiece.

Brands optimize the profile of the cathedral hand to hold a large amount of luminous material on its surface. Hamilton likes to use the style on its Khaki Field watches, while Longines, Oris, and Montblanc have all shared in the success of the design, implementing it into models like the Majetek, the 1858, and the Big Crown, respectively.

The cupola-like hour hand of a cathedral handset looks similar to a chess piece and accompanies a longer, thinner minute hand that widens as it travels up from the base. Almost skyscraper-like, cathedral hands are one of my favorites, adding plenty of character to a timepiece and making for a great talking point on a watch.

Mercedes Hands

There is only one brand we instantly think of when we hear the words “Mercedes hands”, and that is Rolex. Similar to a badge that automobile enthusiasts will be familiar with, models like the Explorer, the Submariner, and the GMT-Master have all sported this style of hand on their dials. 

In some ways, the Mercedes style is similar to the cathedral. The hour hand has a barrel-shaped base and a larger circular area towards the tip. The circular section is divided into three parts, resembling the Mercedes logo.

Mercedes hands are not exclusive to Rolex, however. The crown brand began using this style in the 1950s on its sports watches as a subtle tribute to British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze. 

Anyone familiar with Rolex’s history will know that Gleitze became an advocate for Rolex watches during this time. The minute hand that accompanies the hour hand on a Mercedes handset is usually a simple baton index and can be seen in designs like the TAG Heuer Professional 1000 series and the Omega Seamaster 200 models.

Breguet Hands

Similar to how we associate Mercedes hands with Rolex, Breguet hands will always be inextricably linked to elegant Breguet watches, mainly because it was Abraham-Louis Breguet who designed them. Breguet was (and still is) a central figure throughout the history of watchmaking.

Not only did the watchmaker develop timepieces that incorporated innovative winding mechanisms, escapements, and tourbillons, but he also developed one of the first-ever mechanical wristwatches.

Breguet hands first made an appearance on the dial of a watch back in 1783. Crafted from blued steel, they provided an eye-catching finish to the display, boasting a slim shaft and hollow moons for the tips. Considering the Breguet hand is one of the most archaic styles on the market, it has never lost its appeal or its charm. 

Collectors still find the style just as captivating and intriguing today as they did back then. Over the years, many manufacturers adopted this style of watch hand. They have sparked particular enthusiasm over the last three years and live to tell the tale of their fascinating comeback story.

Snowflake Hands

It’s great when a watch with complete purpose can still look simple and straightforward without needing a lot of flamboyant features. Case in point: no salt and pepper is needed for the Black Bay watch. 

It has all the Tudor seasoning it needs with a set of snowflake hands – a signature design element that has come to be exclusively associated with the watchmaker. This style of hand made its debut in designs like the Tudor Submariner ref. 7016 and 7021 models. The two watches released during the 1960s featured these hands resembling the segment of a snowflake and became a characteristic encouraged by French military divers at the time.

Combined with a legible sword-shaped minute hand and a set of blocky, angular hour markers and circular indexes, the dial promised incredible readability and afforded a great surface area for the lume. Wherever you are in the world, when you see this handset, you can be certain you’re looking at a Tudor watch since the design element has become a universal feature of Tudor watches.

The Takeaway

Discussing the loaded topic of watch hands can take some time, and with so many different styles to explore, it can become one of the most intriguing facets of watch collecting. While this guide highlights 11 of the most popular styles, it is missing some other classic designs like the spade, the pointer, and the lollipop hand.

Still, by now, you should have a clear indication of what style you like the most. So enjoy exploring our range of luxury watches here at Exquisite Timepieces, where you’re likely to see many examples of these hand styles as you peruse what we have on offer.

Definition of ‘worldie’; worldie in British English – someone or something that is of the highest possible quality.

I’m tired of hearing people say that 18k gold cases scratch up too easily and that they can’t sustain the wear and tear of daily rigors. “Gold watches are soft as butter,” they say. “You only need to look at one and it marks up!”. 

At the risk of getting immediately shot down by gold watch naysayers and those who swear by the rugged steel sports watch, I’m going out on a limb here to say that every collection deserves a gold watch. More specifically – a Grand Seiko SBGY002 – a “golden worldie”.

An In-Depth Review of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY002

Just as Coco Chanel would say, you can never go wrong with a little black number. I happen to think the same about gold watches. There is a reason why this alchemy has reigned supreme throughout the ages of watch collecting. 

Patek Philippe put gold watches well and truly on the horological map with a design for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary back in 1868. That watch made its way into the Guinness World Book of Records.

Some gold watches signify first-class refinement. Of course, brand reputation, build quality, price, and accuracy all matter too. Some can look downright tacky. But as true as the earth is round, Grand Seiko watches tick all those boxes as a given. Whether small, large, sporty or dressy, Spring Drive-powered or quartz-driven – Grand Seiko watches are some of the sturdiest you can own. 

Special hand finishes and exquisite case executions really give every GS competitor a run for their money. Oh, and then there’s the story element to each watch – many of which take inspiration from natural elements and the beauty that blankets the surrounding areas of the company’s prestigious Shizukuishi studio. 

In this case, it’s the snow-capped Japanese Alps of the Shinshu region, hence its Snowflake name, or in terms of the reference SGBY002, the yellow gold Snowflake.

The History of the SBGY002 – 20 Years of Spring Drive Heaven 

You may remember the launch of the Grand Seiko SBGY002 in 2019. Back then, the world was a different place. We’re talking pre-pandemic times before the watch industry boomed. During lockdown, consumers flush with cash were no longer spending money on lavish vacations. 

They were investing in collectible timepieces like loaves of bread. Faded bronze cases were the new black. Green dials proved to the world they weren’t just a fad, and the integrated steel sports watch just hit different back then. Still, staples like the Grand Seiko Elegance were keeping the classic dress watch in the game with designs like the SBGY002. 

The SBGY002 was a moment of genius that punctuated the brand’s history with a celebratory ode to one of its finest innovations of all time – the bionic man of all watch movements – the manual Spring Drive caliber. 

The beginnings of the Spring Drive movement twenty years prior were not so much a sporadic culmination of technologies but more a symbol of the brand’s unwavering strength at a time when digital technology dominated the industry. 

Indeed, it took a total of twenty years to incubate the Spring Drive. The brand’s Elegance watches stood as friendly, stoic reminders that not all was lost by way of mechanical engineering. Instead, what watchmakers needed to do was innovate something and ride it out.

Moreover, GS watches, with their textured snow-clad landscape-inspired dials and sweeping second hands, were still waiting for us on the other side. When quartz simmered down, a love for mechanical was once more reignited. 

While quartz watches will always offer an affordable, reliable alternative to manual wind watches and automatics, all three have learned to co-exist in equilibrium together including that of the Spring Drive, which kind of sits within its own bracket.  

The Movement 

Even if I do favor slightly edgier, off-the-wall designs than most, the majority of the timepieces I love are powered by automatic movements. That is, with the exception of the Spring Drive. The endearing thing about the SBGY002 is that it celebrates a timekeeping technology that not only took two decades to materialize but one that is now two decades old itself. 

And while quartz is a word seldom found on the lips of many horophiles, the fact that the Grand Seiko Spring Drive uses a quartz regulator without actually being battery-powered instantly makes things a little different.

It’s a hybrid movement that mixes the old with the new. GS decided that quartz didn’t have to be low-end. In fact, 80% of the genetic makeup of the Spring Drive points to mechanical, and the other 20% comprises a non-traditional escapement. Allow me to explain how it works in the best way possible without using too much horological jargon. 

The coveted Spring Drive is just as fascinating inside as it is to watch perform. When you see it in action, you can quickly understand how it has won so many accolades. On the surface, that sweeping second hand is liquid smooth and one reason why collectors become so hypnotized by its performance. Even better, it keeps near-perfect time. 

Mechanical watches use a balance wheel that oscillates back and forth to halt a set of gears and intermittently control the timekeeping pace of the mainspring. It’s a technology that has proven effective for years and years. But Seiko wanted to go one better. 

Instead, Spring Drive technology combines a magnet with an electromagnet that works against one another. On the one hand, the conventional magnet attaches to the rotor, and the electromagnetic counteracts by pulling away from it, thus acting as a brake.

The movement is slowed to the perfect graceful speed, giving the hand its recognizable butter-smooth sweeping motion. This lack of friction preserves the parts of the movement for longer than a conventional mechanical movement. All of this and no battery, you say? That’s correct. 

The parts of the Spring Drive movement form what is called the Tri-Synchro Regulator. Compared to a traditional movement, this masterful engineering uses 200 more components and they’re all arranged meticulously by the hands of Grand Seiko artisans. The Calibre 9R31 is a manually winding movement and was new for the 2019 release, offering a 72-hour power reserve and comprising 30 jewels. 

Through the exhibition caseback of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY002, you can see the power reserve indicator in the top left, alongside a satin-finished mono bridge, blued screws, and handsome chamfers that are deep and easily visible.

The Case

The 38mm Grand Seiko SBGY002 watch is thin, so much so that it has a natural affinity towards those with slender wrists, measuring a height of 10mm. The watch is graced with a beautifully sloped case line and endowed with lugs that sit 43mm apart from one another. 

This is king in delivering an overall compact and ergonomic fit for the wrist. Back in 2019, big watches were the order of the day. So, the fact that the profile of the SBGY002 honors the style and size of golden-era 1940s and 1950s dress watches is pretty special and unusual for its time. 

In response to those who say a gold watch is simply too fragile and that you can’t wear one daily, I would have to say that you’re wrong and that you can. 

And I have physically seen the condition of a worn Grand Seiko SBGY002 in the flesh, having been enjoyed on the wrist by a collector for years (sometimes for months at a time as said collector’s only watch). Its worn, aged look detracts nothing from the watch’s character and charm. In fact, it further adds to it.

The watch strikes a natural rapport with the wrist and wears exceptionally well. I have seen it paired with black tie attire, with tuxedos and lapels, and with a casual jeans-and-jumper combo. 

In all three examples, the watch looks stellar, and it’s all down to the exceptional finish of a Zaratsu-polished 18k yellow case. The technique harnesses the naturally slim, vintage-infused dress watch style of the SBGY002 with fluidly reaching lugs and a supple leather strap.

Handsome satin finishes run along the caseband, enhancing the watch’s slightly vintage-esque character. I’d say the longitudinal grain does go a long way towards enhancing the Zaratsu polishing on the lughood, too. 

The technique uses a spinning tin plate to achieve the mirror-polished finish known as the Zaratsu effect. Both Grand Seiko and Seiko watches showcase this type of finish, which requires the hand precision of an artisan to run the surface of the case along the spinning plate at just the right level of pressure and a precise angle. 

The result is an optically smooth and distortion-free effect (in other words, the equivalent of what the Swiss would call a “black polish).

The case of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY002 watch also features a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, emblazoned with the GS logo, along with a conical bezel that gives way to a rather enticing dial effect. Grand Seiko equips the watch with a scratch-resistant and anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass front and caseback, along with a 30-meter water resistance.

The Dial

The non-uniform arrangement of the Snowflake dial is insanely artistic. Without even having to try, it evokes the snow-capped mountains of the Shinshu region surrounding Grand Seiko’s workshops. 

There are 80 steps involved in the making of this dial effect. Grand Seiko experts choose pieces of silver to achieve the flake effect of the snow rather than merely painting the display white and calling it “snow-inspired”. What this dial lacks in luminous material, it makes up for with its iridescent, shimmering, and highly textured nuances that entice the light to dip in and out of each crevice. 

Together with the polished indexes that are razor-sharp in cut, the dial shines in low light conditions, enabling it to bounce off uneven surfaces with ease.

This, of course, is the same famous dial of the SBGA211, sharing a similar light and lively randomness and accurately echoing the snow drifts of the Shinshu landscape. The fired blue lancet seconds hand complements a set of crisp dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands that are brought into existence with a diamond-like polish. 

Grand Seiko craftsmen use micro-metric diamond-tipped milling tools to capture a clean and contemporary profile of these hands. Meanwhile, the Grand Seiko lettering in golden tones adds the only other detail to the dial (save for the crisp black minute track), since the display is also void of a date aperture.

The Strap

The strap on a Grand Seiko watch is something that never seems to disappoint. No matter who I talk to about watches from this Japanese maison, people share the same view. Whether leather or bracelet form, every Grand Seiko strap feels strong, solid, and well-built. The SBGY002 is fitted on a very dark brown large-rectangular-scale crocodile leather band. 

The company’s crocodile straps are all made in-house using traditional Japanese techniques and comprise three layers of natural leather. The top layer is made from crocodile leather, while both the middle layer and the inner lining are manufactured from cow leather for a smoother and more comfortable finish.

Grand Seiko experts use a special cutting die to stamp out the leather before evening out the thickness of the skin for a refined finish. The monotone stitching is another really nice touch, as it gives you more options when pairing the watch with different attire. The folded edge profile, once flipped over, leads to the “Made in Japan” and “Grand Seiko” lettering, which is embossed neatly into the soft lining.  

The buckle is an Italian-made component, crafted from solid 18k yellow gold and finished with a nice polishing. The twin-trigger, spring-loaded release, enabling you to securely lock it into place before you leave the house, is quick, easy to operate, and matches the high quality of the leather band perfectly.

On The Wrist

I took some time to experience the Grand Seiko SGBY002 a couple of years back and was lucky enough to play about with a brand-new one. Here’s what I found.

Unusually, the leather band is what I want to talk about first and foremost. As I mentioned earlier, Grand Seiko has always impressed with its strap and bracelet designs. This leather band has an incredible buttery and worn-in feel, despite being a brand-new strap. 

Unlike the breaking-in stage required of most brand-new leather bands, getting acquainted with the SBGY002 is made easier with the incredibly soft, supple feel of its leather strap.

Because the strap already feels broken in, you don’t have to flex it back at all to secure the clasp into place.  It molds to the shape of the wrist like a glove to the hand. 

As you thread the tail-end of the strap through the keepers, it snaps into place, taking a lot of wear and tear out of the strap. I have to say that a strap that feels this worn-in from the get-go is almost certain to preserve the quality of the material for much longer than average.

The dimensions of the case are similarly pleasing. Sitting low, the SGBY002 will slink under the cuff of a shirt without a fuss, making it an ideal companion for office wear. I also believe that its slim proportions and its ability to sit under a sleeve will make it a great option for those with smaller wrists too. 

At 38mm in diameter, it’s not going to swamp the wrist, but the fact that the lug width is the less popular 19mm size means that finding alternative straps for the SBGY002 isn’t going to be trickier than shopping for the more common 20mm strap.

The Price

This timepiece is not cheap. At $25k, it’s not an overnight purchase for most. Justifying the price of the watch is not so hard, however,  when you consider what you do get rather than focussing on what you don’t. 

Grand Seiko may not be able to compete with the likes of Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet on a status level, that much is true. But while many have tried to develop a revelation as impressive as the Spring Drive, none have succeeded. Why is this, you ask? 

Well, the movement is an engineering marvel, and experts at the Japanese ateliers took years to research and develop the concept. That stands for a lot when investing in a mechanical watch. In-house manufacture sells.

Lastly, the Spring Drive hand doesn’t tick, it glides. And for avid mechanical watch connoisseurs, this is a very desirable feature. Add to the mix a +15 seconds-per-moth accuracy, an 18k yellow gold case, and a hand-finished dial, and all of a sudden, the price of the SBGY002 seems pretty reasonable. 

Still, there are more affordable Grand Seikos available, so it’s really about weighing up what you want in a watch. If dressy aesthetics and unparalleled accuracy are important to you, the SBGY002 is definitely worth it. 

But if you need a watch that can sustain the knocks and bumps of a busy working environment, you may want to prioritize a watch with better scratch-proof properties and reserve your GS watch for the more special occasions in life.

Wrapping Up

I’m not disputing that gold watches don’t scratch. But rarely will another case material imbue the same rich, indulgent flavor as a real gold timepiece. Perhaps life is too short to look past that gold watch you’ve always toyed with the idea of owning. Perhaps it’s time to take a risk and enjoy the allure and the flurries of nostalgia that a gold Grand Seiko watch can bring to the wrist.

For me, it would be a watch like the SBGY002. It can smarten up practically everything you own in your wardrobe and bucks the trend, putting that stigma of the gaudy gold watch to bed.  It is, in other words, the “Golden Worldie”, and a watch that I would say ticks everything box needed in a classic, timeless dress watch.

I have long marveled at Grand Seiko watches. Since the brand seized the opportunity of independence, and indeed before that too, its designs always had the innate ability to catch the attention of collectors worldwide. Long may that continue. 

The Japanese brand, with roots firmly anchored in Iwate soil, has never taken its foot off the gas, whether in the form of new movements, dial patterns, or designs inspired by all things whimsical, wild, and wonderful. 

One watch that deserves some serious consideration (if you’re looking for a solid, classic, and reliable daily beater) is the Grand Seiko SBGN023. Bear with me while I purify my thoughts a little further…

An Overview of the Grand Seiko SGBN023

The Grand Seiko SGN023 belongs to the company’s Sport Collection and forms part of its rich and expansive tapestry of horological creations. Here, like with all other Grand Seiko watch families, philosophical craftsmanship is woven into the cultural fabric of the collection, with designs that honor “The Nature of Time” through its concept of “Takumi”. 

The Sport collection is home to models powered by the legendary Spring Drive revelation, chronographs, and, of course, GMT complications. The SBGN023 falls into the latter category – a complication primed for those who like to travel frequently but also those who just love the style and functionality of the feature.

Some of the model’s key features include an 18k gold lion logo, emblazoned onto the back of the case, a distinctive arrow-tipped GMT hand in yellowy-gold for tracking an additional time zone, and a thermocompensated quartz movement for unparalleled accuracy. 

Stick with me as I attempt to delve into these features in more detail. I’ll also share my thoughts on how this watch will wear, how it keeps time, and how it imbues classic style when worn.

140 Years of Seiko History

Even relatively young brands will try to play into the “history” element of their timepieces. Can you blame them? History sells. Stories, indeed, sell. They give meaning to a timepiece and provide the basis for an interesting conversation starter (it certainly beats entertaining small talk). 

Even if a brand only dates back a few years, it will always try to sell a watch with a bit of a story. Where Grand Seiko is concerned, however, history really does mean just that. It has 140 years of the stuff, having been conceptualized at Suwa Seikosha, home of the world-famous Seiko. Its first watch arrived in 1961, but Seiko’s rich legacy reaches back much further than that.

You see, the founder of Seiko, Kintarō Hattori, had been holding onto one singular vision. To develop something more refined and more exquisite than the affordable, well-built designs that Seiko became so renowned for. As good as they were, Hattori wanted more. He believed that one day, his future Grand Seiko concept would epitomize Japanese craftsmanship. And, so it did.

Let’s turn the calendar pages back to the year of 1960. It was a decade of innovation, liberation, and a time when people were obsessed with precision. The first Grand Seiko didn’t just mark the release of a new watch, it was a manifestation of a long-nurtured dream. It marked the beginning of a very transformative era in watchmaking. 

For brands like itself, it was an era of horological advancements and an opportunity for Grand Seiko to prove to the world what it could bring to the table, both in terms of refined precision and technical prowess. Thus, 140 years on from the founding of Seiko, watches like the SBGN023 are still paying homage to these very foundations. 

The limited-edition watch, exclusive to 2,021 pieces, nods to the year of its release (2021) and embodies, in the purest of ways, Hattori’s motto; “Always one step ahead of the rest”.

The Case

Allow me to quickly shun the notion that only the Germans and the Swiss can manufacture timepieces to first-class standards. It is simply not the case. While Seiko may manufacture some very accessible quartz watches (which offer a lot of bang for your buck!), Grand Seiko crafts superlative designs that often only elicit praise from those who understand the company and its origins.

Grand Seiko has gained unequivocal respect from those of a non-judgemental standpoint. Those who don’t confuse the two brands as being the same thing. The reality is that Grand Seiko has worked hard to stand tall on its own and has proudly stepped out of the shadow of its much larger sibling quite some years ago. 

The two should not be confused – not because either one is superior to the other. Moreover, they both compete in totally different leagues. Credit, therefore, should be given to both respective brands, regardless of how they compare to one another.

On that point, it is remarkably easy to identify the SBGN023 as a Grand Seiko watch, just from the look of the case alone. In previous reviews, I have gone into great depth on the signature Zaratsu polish that Grand Seiko artisans apply to the brand’s designs. 

Where watches from the Sport Collection are concerned, Zaratsu favors the angular architecture of the case, coaxing out the hairline finishes and sharp, ridge-like lines that form its prominent sporty nature. The interplay between light and shadow is always what has me gazing into the perfect contours of a Grand Seiko case for hours.

Flip the case over, and more details reveal themselves. The 18k gold lion emblem is one of my favorite features of the Sport Collection, and there it is, in all its glory, concealing yet another horological feat by way of the thermocompensated quartz movement. 

The movement sits behind a caseback equipped with 200-meter water resistance, keeping perfect time within an anti-magnetic construction. The case also features a 4 o’clock GS-engraved screw-down to avoid snagging and a fixed bezel adorned with legible Arabic numerals in a glossy ceramic inlay for keeping track of an additional time zone.

The Dial

There are several elements that I really like about the dial of this GS watch. Radiating out from the center of the dial is a subtly ribbed pattern, reaching right out to the periphery. What makes this feature particularly special is that you don’t always see it. 

Should you catch the dial under the right angle of light, the SBGN023 rewards you with a sunburst-like effect, which illuminates pockets of the display that you don’t always get to appreciate. I guess what really resonates with me is the idea that the design keeps on giving, even after that initial “honeymoon” period.

The use of yellow-gold accents on the dial is also really clever because (and here’s something else that may surprise you) the surface they sit on isn’t black. It’s a really rich brown shade that, once again, can trick you into thinking you’re looking at something that you’re not. Seldom have I seen brown and yellow-gold nuances used in this way in a watch before, and I’m here for it.

The golden yellow tones continue with the familiar GS logo at 12 o’clock and in the daytime hours of the GMT watch’s 24-hour rehaut. The remainder of the 24-hour track is dark to signify the nighttime hours. Having spent many, many years discussing watch features with connoisseurs, I have come to realize that a dislike of the 4:30 date is a very common theme. 

In this design, GS chooses the 4 o’clock location for its date aperture. It’s a decision that I feel works pretty well, but I can also appreciate that a sense of balance is lost when a manufacturer does this. A nice addition (since many GS watches don’t feature it) is the well-lumed hour markers and hands that guide the way to clear, legible timekeeping in the dark.

The Movement

Let’s be real for a second: quartz snobbery is never going to go away. Many connoisseurs feel that a mechanical is simply more authentic than a quartz, but there are bad quartz movements and good, and Grand Seiko certainly sits in the latter field. 

In many cases, deciding between a mechanical and a quartz is not all that tough a task. No one should feel it’s about proving how much you know about horology, but mechanical movements do tend to be the favored one of the two. 

But the thermocompensated quartz sitting inside this watch is certainly worth a mention here because even though quartz, in general, offers better accuracy than a mechanical movement, this type of quartz is even more superior to the standard type. With an accuracy of – /+ 10 seconds per year, the Grand Seiko SBGN023 is likely the most accurate thing you’ll have in your collection. 

If you’re not familiar with thermocompensated quartz movements, they work in a very similar way to standard quartz movements. Still, there are a few key differences that make the performance and accuracy of the thermocompensated variety more reliable and superior.

Piezoelectric energy is what keeps a watch running, and the vibration of the quartz crystal is what keeps a watch so accurate (more accurate than a mechanical movement). A quartz crystal vibrates a staggering total of 32,768 every second of the day. The electronics of the quartz movement unlock the power generated by the quartz crystal in the same way that an escape lever does in a mechanical watch.

Now, thermocompensated cuts appear on some quartz crystals, which reduce temperature fluctuations that could otherwise affect how the quartz operates inside the watch. Quartz movements tend to have tuning fork-shaped cuts in the crystal, which, over the years, has worked well to carry the tradition of quartz watchmaking through to present-day wristwatches. 

However, thermocompensated quartz movements take more precision to cut, and they maintain a nice equilibrium inside the watch, regulating and maintaining a harmonious performance deep at the heart of the movement.

What this achieves is a situation where thermodynamic pressure is regulated, and the electric signals inside the watch generally don’t fall victim to the negative effect that external conditions and changing environmental temperatures could otherwise have on them. 

While Japanese brands like Citizen, Seiko, and Grand Seiko are the heavy hitters in the field of thermocompensated quartz watches, we’re gradually seeing more companies expand their offerings within this category. For some brands, this type of quartz movement is their way of competing on the same level as high-end mechanical movement manufacturers do. 

The 9F Quartz series is one of the most refined and supreme of all the Grand Seiko quartz movements. Within this movement family is the Calibre 9F86, which debuted in 2018, offering a GMT function. The distinctive and graceful presence of the smoothly operating second hand is one key giveaway of the movement. It is perfectly controlled thanks to the movement’s backlash auto-adjust mechanism. 

This works like a hairspring, resisting the second hand’s counterbalance, offering stabilization as it ticks. Without a shudder or even a jolt, this hand travels across the dial of the SBGN023 effortlessly, day and night, without relying on the movement of your wrist or requiring manual winding. 

The mechanical movement has a high torque and uses little energy despite its impressive accuracy. Its Twin Pulse Control Motor propels the heavy hands around the dial with ease, making for a particularly pleasing visual experience.

The Strap

Grand Seiko fits the SBNG023 watch on a tapering 20mm Oyster-like bracelet crafted from stainless steel. I mention this because a slight tapering can, in fact, enable a watch to appear and feel smaller on the wrist. 

This is a good thing if your wrists tend to measure on the small side. Generally speaking, a wrist measuring a diameter of 6 inches or more can carry a 40mm watch without a problem, but straight bracelet designs certainly make a watch feel bigger and more masculine.

The 20mm stainless steel bracelet on this watch tapers down to a nice 18mm diameter at the clasp end, where it meets with a GS-engraved clasp executed in a mix of brushed and polished finishes. 

If you tend to remove your watch for various tasks throughout the day, you’ll appreciate how easy the clasp is to manipulate under the fingertips. The twin trigger is functional and practical, but unfortunately, this watch has no micro-adjustment mechanism. Perhaps if there was one thing to change about the SBGN023, this would be it.

On the upside, you do get half links for accurate sizing, which are afforded by slot screws on either side of the bracelet. So, if you do need to get this bracelet altered, you’re guaranteed to get a snug fit. 

The overall execution of the bracelet, including the brushed and polished links, is done to a high level, as one would expect of any Grand Seiko watch. The bracelet tolerance, craftsmanship, finishes, flexibility, and overall build quality are exceptional.

How It Wears

It’s important to note that Grand Seiko doesn’t make watches simply for them to be reduced to mere functional instruments. Wearing one of these Japanese watches is more a lifestyle choice rather than a practical necessity. The SGBN023 is no exception to this rule. It wears as you’d expect any Grand Seiko to wear: comfortably and ergonomically, but it’s also absolutely stylish.

This GMT watch has some heft to it. Its case is undeniably beefy when you compare it to those from, say, the Elegance Collection. But you have to remember that this is intended as a sports watch. The fact that it’s classic enough to wear on dressier occasions is just an added bonus. 

First and foremost, the watch is designed to face all testing conditions and external environments. You’ll notice that the lugs are truncated, and the case is more angular. The bracelet certainly adds some weight to the model, but you have options to switch that out for something more lightweight if you want to.

In terms of basic dimensions, the watch will still appeal to those with smaller-than-average wrists, and that’s because it has a case diameter of 40mm. Having said that, its lug-to-lug length measures 46.5mm, and its case depth measures 13.1mm, so it’s certainly not the slimmest of GS GMTs.

The Price

Now, it’s time to address the elephant in the room. When the SBGN023 was first unveiled, it disgruntled many collectors. The price tag seemed steep for a quartz watch. As I divulged earlier, however, this is not just any quartz movement. The Quartz 9F is a special variation, reflecting the highest deity of the quartz breed. For that, you would expect to pay a price on par with any mechanical watch. 

And when you weigh up the fact that it has a guaranteed accuracy of -/+ 10 seconds per year, the price of this watch doesn’t seem so far-fetched after all. The watch currently retails for $5,450 at authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces, which is more than reasonable in my humble opinion.

The Takeaway 

The Grand Seiko SBGN023 is a thing of beauty. Imbued with sportiness and coupled with a travel-friendly GMT function, you could want for nothing more than what this neat 40mm package offers. Inside the watch is not just any quartz movement but a thermocompensated one. 

Equipped with an innovative regulating switch, the movement can be adjusted and compensated if it ever operates too slow or too fast. It’s a superior level of quartz timekeeping that promises – /+ 10 seconds per year, giving it unbeatable accuracy and, more than likely, rivaling anything else you’ll ever have in your collection. Suffice it to say, the movement alone is an interesting proposition, owing to its collectability.

What appeals to me more than anything, however, is the bread and butter basics of every grand Seiko watch: a case that wears easily on the average-sized wrist, a profound level of case finishing for its price point, and a helping of color here and there.

Wherever Grand Seiko is concerned, there is never any doubt of originality. Indeed, no plagiarism here – the brand has worked hard to achieve an identity of its own, stepping away from the Seiko name and forging a reputation that speaks of quality craftsmanship and high-end finishes. Moreover, the crisp dial of the SBGN023 is eminently legible, with details that coalesce with one another tastefully. 

This is a watch that I feel reigns supreme for its classic beauty and timeless case shape. For me – zero questions asked on why any collector would opt for this quartz GS watch over any mechanical one. The SBGN023 is easy on the eye, super accurate, and comfortable enough to do travel, sport, and life with.