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cartier tank vs santos

Cartier Tank vs Santos – Comparing These Two Iconic Models

Nina S

April 12, 2025

There seems to be a general consensus amongst luxury watch enthusiasts that only those brands with at least a century’s worth of history and experience behind their designs are worthy of being amongst the elite of the Haute Horlogerie universe.

Of course, that’s not true, and there are many up-and-coming names and micro-brands, not to mention young watchmakers making waves across the industry with their influential designs.

But for the purposes of comparing one Cartier watch with another, we can at least say that both of these models come from the same respectable, independent watchmaker, who has over 100 years of know-how and heritage behind its name.

The Cartier Santos and Cartier Tank are among the French luxury brand’s most famous and popular watches of all time. They’re also loved for very different reasons.

Cartier has an illustrious history, and the Tank and Santos have served as two pillars of outstanding craftsmanship and success, marking watershed moments for the brand. 

Should you be contemplating which model you’d like to embellish your collection with, you may require a little extra assistance to accompany your research. In this article, we’ll compare the history, materials, design, movements and the prices of both models as the Cartier Tank goes head- to-head with the Cartier Santos.

The Cartier Tank 

The Cartier Tank

To many, the Cartier Tank may seem very simple in design. But while it embodies a purity that is appreciated amongst discerning collectors, it also tells the story of an unlikely design.

One that didn’t follow the conventional shape, yet reached the heights of popularity in a profound way with a unique design inspired by military tanks of the First World War…

The History of the Tank

The Cartier Tank first came to life in 1917 with its bold rectangular design that stood out drastically amongst a sea of Art Nouveau-inspired timepieces.

It echoed the profile of the Renault FT-17 machines of WWI with clear, structured lines that defied the conventions of its time, marking the beginning of a creative era in watchmaking.

The Tank set a new precedent for modernity and outside-of-the-box thinking. The case was formed by a set of parallel lines that Cartier likes to call “brancards” and the dial was occupied by sword-shaped hands and Roman numeral hour markers.

The crown at the side of the case was set with a blue sapphire cabochon – a hallmark of many Cartier watches. Lastly, its simple yet decadent design came equipped with a traditional leather strap for easy wearing.

The Tank actually took some influential cues from its predecessor, the Santos, yet the gently elongated case shape and clean lines gave it an elegant personality of its own.

It was one of the first examples to take influences from the Art Deco style, appealing to those brave enough to wear something that went against the grain. 

It would be 1919, however, before the first Cartier Tank watch would go on sale. It’s what we now call the Tank Normale, which preceded the Tank Cintree – both of which were led under the innovative direction of Louis Cartier himself.

The Cintree, however, was slightly more elongated, fully celebrating the unusual appeal of the rectangular case with a cambered case and stretched Roman numerals. The inaugural Normale, however, was produced in limited runs, making these originals some of the most covetable of all.

The watch also became ubiquitous on silver screen, starring in the 1926 film “The Son Of The Sheik”. The brand re-launched many historical Tank designs much later on, including the aforementioned Tank Cintree, which arrived in 2018 with iterations available in platinum, rose gold and yellow gold.

The Cintree is an acquired taste. Because it looks rather different to other Tank models, it’s often overlooked until experienced on the wrist. 

Back to the Tank’s history, though. The Tank Chinoise arrived later, resuming the more squared case shape similar to the Normale. It featured upper and lower brancards inspired by East Asian temples.

As time went on, subtle changes were gradually implemented into the collection, including the gently rounded corners of the Tank Louis Cartier case, donating a softer, albeit geometric profile.

Its scalloped edges offered a striking take on the watch and soon became the classic “Tank” style by which all other models are compared to.

The Tank Louis Cartier, otherwise known as the Tank LC was by far one of the most iconic interpretations of the Tank during the roaring 20s and was exclusively manufactured in precious metal, making it an appealing dress watch option for special occasions.

These models were eventually made available in quartz-powered versions, however the purist of ways to experience the model today would be in manually wound form. 

This brings us to the historical chapters that outline some of the most important versions of the Tank watch – each one becoming a renowned component of the larger Tank collection. Here they are in a little more detail.

The Tank Models 

Let’s fast forward to 1977 – the year of the Cartier Tank de Must – a watch that launched during the era of the Quartz Crisis and a more affordable period of watch collecting. To keep up with the demand for accessible wristwatches, Cartier released the Tank de Must in gold-plated silver or brass.

Today, this line still exists, accommodating the Solar Beat variations that absorb light through their dials. A second sub- line has since been built out, too – the Tank Solo – a series of affordable quartz-powered steel models. 

The Tank Americaine followed the quartz period with a curved case that looked similar to the Cintree. These iterations featured a small seconds or moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, adding another layer of technical sophistication to the Tank design.

These models are curved on the dial side with flat casebacks and have recently launched in steel for the first time (2017).

Cartier continued the legacy of the iconic Tank watch in 1996 with the launch of the Tank Francaise, boasting a squared case design and a refined link bracelet that exuded a sportier presence.

In 2012, Cartier released the Tank Anglaise – a much bolder and more modern design with prominent brancards and a chunkier profile for a bolder wrist presence.

This design showcased the crown embedded into the brancards, forming one of the most distinctive designs within the collection. This blend of traditional and modern features serves to articulate the journey of the classic Tank and its evolution over the decades. 

Today, the Cartier Tank is still one of the most alluring designs to own and has been spotted on the wrists of royalty, as well as famous faces like Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy and Andy Warhol.

Above all, it’s a highly popular collectible due to its minimalist design, striking rectangular shape, timeless aesthetics, impeccable movements, and its ability to retain value. 

The Cartier Santos

The Cartier Santos

Similarly, the Cartier Santos is one of the brand’s most enduring designs to date and is once again defined by its unconventional shaped case.

Suffice to say, if you like to steer away from the traditional round case and you like vintage-looking watches that carry a curious and intriguing history, either the Tank or Santos is going to appeal to you for similar reasons.

Yet the Santos is steeped in an aviation heritage, blending luxurious square-shaped aesthetics with pilot-friendly functionality.

The collection ranges from stainless steel models to exquisite diamond-set creations and skeleton editions that show the workings of some of Cartier’s most impressive mechanical movements.

The History of the Cartier Santos 

The story of the Santos dates back to 1904 when Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont highlighted the need for a highly practical wrist-worn tool for flying. The pocket watch was impractical for such duties, thus Cartier responded to the request with a flat watch with a square bezel and a strap.

Santos-Dumont became the first pilot to sport the wristwatch during flight. The design was inspired by an earlier square-shaped Cartier pocket watch and featured an Art Deco-inspired dial that was crisp and highly legible and went on to define the 1920s and 1930s, as did the Tank. 

Earning the distinction of being the first men’s wristwatch, the unorthodox watch design went down in history and is still available today. The first models were made available to the general public in 1911 but have since undergone modifications that have helped evolve the watch into the practical, yet instantly recognisable model it is today. 

The Santos Models 

With screws that bolted down the watch glass, inspired by the legs of the Eiffel tower and a Roman numeral hour track that echoed the streets and boulevards of Paris, there is no denying that the Cartier Santos watch was unique, both in design and aesthetics.

When the watch hit the shelves in 1911, options in platinum and yellow gold became available. The brand then went on to create the deployant clasp (before innovating the QuickSwitch clasp) and played a pivotal role in defining the era that made the man’s wristwatch both acceptable and stylish. 

During the 1970s, Cartier was inspired by the stainless steel sports watch and the penned Gerald Genta designs that took the world by storm.

It turned to the Santos to capitalise on the trend, redesigning it and renaming it the Santos de Cartier in 1978. It switched out the classic leather band for an integrated metal bracelet and debuted in stainless steel. 

Similar to changing tactics during the quartz era with a battery-powered Tank, Cartier also revised and renamed the Santos during the 1980s with the large-wearing  Santos Galbee, before the arrival of the Santos 100 in 2004, marking the model’s centenary.

After lying dormant for a decade, the brand relaunched the Santos in 2018 with a modern collection of timepieces each featuring curvier lugs and cases. The range came with several patent-pending features including a SmartLink system for its bracelets and the aforementioned QuickSwitch mechanism.

The latest range is the Santos-Dumont, which launched a year later in two-tone options, featuring dials that look similar to early 1900 vintage models. 

Despite the many variations of the Cartier Santos and the fact that it’s the oldest design in the brand’s current catalogue, there is still a strong appetite for this aviation watch. It still looks good on the wrist some 100 years later, as does the Tank, making the decision process between the two particularly tricky. 

Which Is the Right Model for You?

It goes without saying that the Cartier Tank leans into dress watch territory with its simple, classic and undeniably elegant aesthetics.

Though both share the crisp black Roman numeral hour markers and signature blued hands of the true unadulterated Cartier style, the Santos is bolder and more functional, benefitting from a QuickSwitch strap, as well as superior water resistance. It’s an ideal go-to watch that straddles the line between dress and sports watch.

As well as capturing the brand’s pioneering heritage in aviation watchmaking, the Cartier Santos shows more technical sophistication, exposing elements of its fine watchmaking through skeletonised designs and industrial-inspired elements like the bezel screws, though these features may be too aggressive for some and it’s price too high when compared to entry-level Tanks.

The Tank however, excels in formal environments with its slim profile and elegant proportions. Great for business attire, the unisex designs from this collection are versatile across gender preferences thanks to their timeless design language and their cultural significance across the course of history.

At the end of the day, however, it’s the Cartier Santos that stands out for its practical adaptability. The implementation of its strap-changing features makes customising the watch easy while on the go, eradicating the need to use tools and providing more configurations for those who like to switch up the style of their watch as they go. 

Of course, deciding between the two depends on personal preference and requires some level of consideration in what you need in a timepiece and what your watch-wearing habits are. 

The Cartier Tank and Santos as Investments 

Understanding the investment side to collecting Tank and Santos watches is important. Both stand out for their strong value retention, but as with every model, market demand and price is affected by rarity, materials and condition.

From the Tank collection, models like Louis Cartier Tank watches hold their value well, while the Tank Must designs have provided a more accessible price point for collectors, strengthening the brand’s market position and appealing to a wider audience. 

Like many sports watch offerings, the Cartier Santos demonstrates good value retention, especially those that have since become discontinued, like the Santos 100.

Enhancing market appeal further are features designed for comfort and practicality like Cartier’s redesigned case proportions and strap-fitting mechanisms, benefitting from enhanced build quality whilst still preserving the links to it is heritage. 

Contrastingly, while the Cartier Tank commands premium prices when in precious metal form, the value of the Santos can be found within its steel sports watch offerings. For a new Cartier Tank quartz, you can expect to pay around $3k and within the region of $20k for a precious metal model.

For the Cartier Santos, prepare to part with around $7k to $40k depending on the complication, or more than original retail price for a vintage or discontinued model on the pre-owned market. 

Conclusion 

The word “iconic” is thrown around all too often in the world of watch collecting. But if there is one watch that lives up to that terminology, it’s the Cartier Tank. The watch has graced the wrists of many luminaries over the years, from Princes Diana and Jackie Kennedy to Andy Warhol and Muhammed Ali.

Although the watch has undergone many changes over the years, most have been functional upgrades rather than aesthetical ones. Indeed, the Tank has needed to change very little to keep up with current tastes.

It will remain amongst some of the most timeless designs in history thanks to its enduring shape and endlessly elegant style. Above all, the Tank is one of the most influential and recognisable luxury designs on the planet and is widely appreciated as a unisex design. 

Likewise, the Cartier Santos will always have a palace in the heart of aviation fans and pilot watch collectors, and appeals to a more niche segment, resonating with fans of the brand’s aviation roots, not to mention dedicated Cartier watch collectors who generally share an appreciation for the classic and timeless beauty of its unconventional case shape and suite of distinctive features. 

The recent boom in vintage watches has no doubt kept the Cartier Tank and Santos watches towards the top of the wish list for many discerning collectors. For those looking for a more modern interpretation of either watch, Cartier’s current line-up offers a little something for everyone.

And while neither the Santos or the Tank are the cheapest of investments, they do retain their value well and promise to make some of the best heirlooms you could opt for on the current market.

apple vs rolex

Apple vs Rolex – Functionality Over Heritage?

Nina S

April 11, 2025

Compare a watch that vibrates on your wrist to let you know you’ve met your steps goal for the day and your work meeting is about to commence in five minutes with a traditional analog watch that operates via a series of gear trains and wheels to keep accuracy and tell me they don’t both serve very different purposes in the modern world. A smartwatch like Apple and a traditional wristwatch like Rolex are worlds apart. Or are they?

As crazy as it may sound, there is an argument for a smartwatch and an argument for a mechanical timepiece. Although there will always be an element of Swiss snobbery when this debate crops up in conversation, there is no denying that smartwatches are the reluctant revolution none of us thought we needed.

In actual fact, Apple has forced many Swiss watch manufacturers down the digital route, and for some, it has really paid off. Lots of traditional watch companies have some sort of smartwatch offering. It makes sense when you think about society’s growing focus on fitness and health tracking.

Even though the technological feat of the smartwatch far outweighs the traditional watch on a functional level, there are still many reasons why your collection may call for a Rolex watch and an Apple watch at some point in your life. Indeed, smartwatches and traditional watches can co-exist in a collection, and there are no hard and fast rules to suggest you can only be pro and not the other.

But how do they compare when you put them side-by-side? Here’s a delve into the Apple vs Rolex debate and a comparison guide to their features and designs.  

The Birth of the Crown

Rolex Explorer 40 History

Rolex produces over 1 million watches per year. It remains the most recognizable brand in the entire world thanks to a fascinating heritage deeply rooted in independent manufacture and excellent craftsmanship, with a proven track record in iconic designs.

Founded in 1905, Rolex launched the Oyster case in 1926, forming the backbone for all other Rolex watches to follow. The hermetically sealed case was worn around the neck of famous Channel swimmer Mercedes Gleitze performing admirably underwater.

Rolex is recognized for models like the Datejust, which landed in the 1940s, followed by the GMT-Master, the Day-Date, and the Milgauss. However, two of the brand’s most iconic designs were the Submariner and the Datejust.

Both models are respected for their robust case constructions, legible dials, and unmistakable design. Today, Rolex continues to build on its most well-loved collections, upholding standards in quality and authenticity that remain unmatched across the industry.

The Advent of the Smartwatch

The Apple Watch first arrived in 2015, setting the foundations of the modern smartwatch as we know it now with the Series 0. The brand set the bar for a slim, compact, and practical device compared to the bulky devices already circulating the market.

Being the first of its kind, its slow performance certainly needed some attention, and by the time the Series 1 and 2 were launched, a dual processor had been developed to increase its speed by 50%. Reasonably priced at just under $300, it also introduced GMT functionality and a “Breathe” app,.

The Series 3, which followed, featured cellular connectivity, enabling the wearer to make and take calls using the watch alone.

The Series 4 brought more size options with it, as well as a chip for Bluetooth connectivity, while the Series 5, 6, and 7 introduced a new touchscreen, more colors, and faster charging capability, respectively. Apple currently holds the leading position in the smartwatch market, selling around 37 million units in 2023.

Rolex vs Apple Functionality

The Apple Watch has a lot more capabilities than a Rolex watch, that much can be agreed on. However, what appeals to you as a wearer all boils down to personal preference. If you’re the kind of person whowho likes a lot of exercise, Apple’s heart rate function and workout features will bring efficiency and intuition to your daily runs, hikes, or biking routes.

Apple experts design the many health and fitness tracking features to provide an all-encompassing, quick-accessing experience by which all elements complement one another in one single wrist-sized package.

More akin to a phone than a watch, the battery of an Apple Watch will need recharging, which can take some getting used to if you’re an automatic watch lover and never usually need to make a conscious effort to keep your timepiece ticking over.

This is where one of the Apple watch’s disadvantages becomes apparent. If your mechanical watch runs down at any point, there is the opportunity to wind that watch immediately and get it back on track. The Apple watch will, of course, take time to electronically charge back up before you can resume enjoying its features.

Nighttime functionality in the Apple watch is far superior to any Rolex watch. Apple watches benefit from a bright OLED screen, making time instantly clear and easy to reference.

However, Rolex uses luminescent material on all the essential dial features for nighttime legibility. As with all Super-LumiNova-type material, this will fade as the hours pass and is nowhere near as bright as the OLED screen of an Apple watch.

One advantage of the Apple watch over the Rolex watch is that it costs a lot less. Does a cheaper watch give you some subconscious flexibility to be less cautious and expose it to more environments? Possibly.

Rolex watches are undoubtedly some of the toughest in the world, but when you know that damaging one will likely cost the same amount as replacing an entire Apple watch, maybe you can get more out of the Apple Watch on a daily basis.

Apple Design vs Rolex Design

Being a smartwatch, the Apple watch has a suite of features, including a heart rate monitor, calorie counter, sleep tracker, and blood oxygen tracker. More specifically, using the watch’s ECG app, you can check for signs of atrial fibrillation with the Apple watch’s heart tracker feature and measure electrical signals across your heart.

You can also create sleep schedules, review your sleep history, and track sleep apnoea on the Apple watch, as well as display an overnight view of your health metrics on demand.

Tracking social media updates and receiving messages is also super easy with an Apple watch. You can also use voice dictation or the Scribble feature to write messages while you’re on the go, as well as stay on track of activity reminders and appointments without needing a physical planner.

It’s also worth noting that there’s a whole host of third-party apps to explore, as well as those built into the Apple Watch, and you can tailor all of these apps according to how much you want to utilize your smartwatch daily.

No surprise that the functions of a Rolex watch are entirely different to those of an Apple watch. Depending on the model you own or the one you’re thinking of investing in, Rolex watches keep track of time with a traditional analog dial comprising a central hour, minute, and seconds hand and will sometimes feature a date window.

Models like the Rolex GMT-Master II will track up to three time zones at once using a 24-hour bezel and GMT hand. Other features include a chronograph complication, which you’ll most likely have seen in models like the iconic motorsport-inspired Daytona watch, and a unidirectional rotating bezel for measuring elapsed time underwater when wearing the Sea-Dweller or Submariner.

While the Apple Watch provides an array of digital statistics and health metrics on demand, the allure of a Rolex watch is deeply rooted in the brand’s heritage and its many patented designs aimed at improving and preserving the beauty of the age-old mechanical watch.

Rolex watches feature Chromalight dial appliques – the brand’s own luminous material, a helium escape valve for saturation diving, and an Oyster case with a Triplock winding crown that upholds water resistance within a specially manufactured case.

COSC-certified movements and in-house manufactured bracelets like the Oysterflex bracelet and the Jubilee bracelet are other key design features of a Rolex watch.

Build Quality & Materials Compared

Rather than the classic unboxing of a traditional watch that you can slide straight out of the packaging and onto the wrist, the Apple Watch comes as a deconstructed piece of kit that you assemble as you go, comprising the case, the strap, and the charging components.

Size-wise, there is no drastic difference between the Apple and a 40mm Rolex watch. Clearly, the differences lie in the shape of the cases and their materials.

The Apple is a smooth, softly rounded rectangular shape and can be manufactured from steel, titanium, aluminum, or ceramic. Rolex watches are a traditional round shape, and many of the brand’s sports watches are manufactured from steel.

That said, Rolex has its own research and development department and manufactures its own gold. Often, you will see a Rolex watch listed as Oystersteel, Everose, or 950 Platinum, reflecting the brand’s ability to create completely unique designs without the limitations of a controlled manufacturing process.

Movements

Obviously, we can’t compare the complex mechanical movement of a Rolex watch and the Apple watch’s lithium battery.

The two watches work in completely different ways, and rather than being down to personal choice, there is no real choice to make when considering either option. If you’re basing your purchase on your love of mechanical movements, a Rolex watch is your only choice.

Both an Apple watch and a Rolex watch are pieces of equipment, and despite the latter becoming a symbol of status, wealth, and success – it wasn’t initially intended for this. Models like the Sub were built to serve a purpose.

You could smash it up against a rock while swimming through choppy seas without worrying about it holding up. The same can still be said for Rolex watches today. They’re also incredibly versatile, and you can wear one with a suit or attend a family gathering wearing one without it looking too flashy. At the same time, rock up to a corporate event in one, and it instantly conveys success and good taste.

While Apple watches do look smart and sleek on the wrist and can be worn with a suit, they don’t conduct themselves in quite the same way. Apple watches are worn less as a remarkable statement piece and more as a handy, wrist-worn device. Even Apple experts made the case design as discreet and as sleek as possible.

These watches certainly appeal to the fast-paced generation of gym-going, meeting-attending men and women of today’s society, who barely have the time to take their phones out of their pockets. Contrastingly, the Rolex watch is chosen by someone who wants to take time out of the day to focus on the now and appreciate the simpler, more luxurious things in life.

Price Point

There is no denying the fact that something like the Rolex Datejust costs ten times the amount an Apple Series 5 watch costs. The entry-level of the Apple watch is an aluminum case, which you can choose in many different finishes.

These watches have an excellent level of customization, including the watch face itself. A decent Apple watch like the Series 5 costs around the $400 mark. Compared to any Rolex, it’s considerably cheap, given that the average cost of an entry-level Rolex is around $4-6000.

But if you want the next level up on the Apple watch, a stainless steel will cost you around $700. For a ceramic model, you’ll be looking at around $1,200 to $1,300. All of a sudden, the affordable Apple watch is now creeping into Rolex price territory.

There’s another downside too. Apple likes to release a new watch annually, causing the previous model to become quickly outdated, just like a mobile phone. When you consider that the Apple watch is designed to be worn for a year before it’s replaced, versus the Rolex Datejust, which has stood the test of time – one has to consider whether an Apple watch is worth the money.

Final Thoughts

If you’re still undecided on whether to opt for a Rolex or an Apple watch or add whichever one you’re missing to your collection, let me just say one thing. You may need a watch that will assess your sleep, optimize your prime active windows in the day, and advise you when to rest.

It may also be incredibly convenient to track how many steps you have walked or calories you have burnt. A wrist-worn computer makes even the ability to take and make calls or send messages easier. But it will never make you want to give up your favorite timepiece. A traditional watch connects in a more meaningful way.

Those favoring a traditional watch want the masculinity that a hefty piece of metal brings to the wrist. A smartwatch is not masculine. It’s a digital tool – an extension to your mobile phone if you will.

At the end of the day, a smartwatch like the Apple extends the functionality of your phone and, in a way, can make separating yourself from your phone an even harder task than before.

So, if you want to become more focused on the now and less engrossed in the time-consuming side of digital interaction and social media – a traditional watch is the escape route you’ll want to hold onto.

Smartwatches will not have Rolex lovers ditching their Daytonas and Datejusts in droves. Moreover, a Rolex fan may consider adding an Apple watch to their life if they’re looking for a digital device to aid them with their fitness goals.

(An Apple wearer by day and a Rolex devotee by night, maybe?) Likewise, those who’ve had their fill of smartwatch technology and want to come away from it may want to strip things back with an investment piece from Rolex as a lifestyle upgrade.

If you want my personal opinion? I can’t help but think that smartwatches won’t be around forever. They are undeniably beneficial and relative to the lives we lead today.

But the Apple watch’s ability to snap you out of the here and now and continually suck you back into a screen is not for everyone.

It appears that Apple is more than aware of this, too. The focus on the breathing app, the SOS call feature, and the apps that remind you to get up and keep active all put the emphasis on the consumer needing a wearable health assistant to improve their lifestyle. Is it possible to exercise, eat a balanced diet, and enjoy time spent in the now without an Apple watch? Absolutely.

vacheron constantin vs rolex

Vacheron Constantin vs Rolex – Which Swiss Icon is Better?

Nina S

April 10, 2025

Vacheron Constantin and Rolex are watchmaking giants that have celebrated several horological feats over the years, but which brand is best? 

In this piece, both brands go head-to-head in a comparison guide, determining what features and historical milestones make them unique and worth the investment. Which will you choose? Let’s begin with a look at the history of both brands.

Brand Heritage 

Part of the appeal of owning a watch from either of these brands, Vacheron Constantin or Rolex, is their rich history in watchmaking. Vacheron Constantin is by far the oldest, beginning in 1755 when Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin partnered up and started strategically working on ways to spearhead the standardization of movement parts.

The first pocket chronometer was released in 1872, winning the Geneva Observatory’s chronometry competition, followed by the opening of its first boutique in 1906.  Vacheron Constantin watches were the first to bear the Hallmark of Geneva as a sign of excellence. The brand created the world’s thinnest manually wound watch in 1955. 

The 2000s earmarked a period of modern watch design for Vacheron Constantin, with models like the Patrimony and sporty Overseas released under the Richemont Group.

Of all its greatest milestones, however, its development of some of the world’s most complicated watches must be among Vacheron Constantin’s most impressive achievements.

The Les Cabinotiers Berkeley Grand Complication pocket watch boasts 63 complications and was released last year, 9 years after the reference 57260 made history, complete with 57 complications. 

Rolex’s history is equally fascinating, but for different reasons. The crown brand is recognized as an innovator of several iconic timepieces, including the Daytona, the Submariner, and the GMT-Master II, among many others.

The brand dates back to 1905 and was founded by a guy named Hans Wilsdorf – yes – that Hans Wilsdorf – the one also responsible for founding the sibling brand, TUDOR.

From the beginning, this brand produced superlative timekeepers and was awarded such certification as early as 1910. From the get-go, Hans Wilsdorf wanted these watches to accompany their wearers throughout their entire life, and in 1926, the Oyster case was developed.

The game-changing model formed the backbone of nearly every other Rolex watch to follow and was marketed as the world’s first waterproof watch, thanks to a hermetically sealed construction.

It comprised a bezel and caseback secured to a middle case, proving its superior water-resistant capabilities in 1927 when it was worn around the neck of female British Channel swimmer Mercedes Gleitz.

In 1931, the Oyster Perpetual watch arrived, followed by the Datejust model and, in 1953, the Submariner. The 1970s underpinned Rolex’s successful streak in creating water-resistant watches with the Deep-Sea watch.

In comparison, the iconic Cosmograph Daytona hit the shelves in the 1970s as the world-famous motorsport watch to own. Since then, models like the Yacht-Master II, the Datejust II, and the Sky Dweller have joined the party, underpinning Rolex’s innate ability to produce some of the world’s most iconic designs of all time. 

Model Variety and Design

Rolex 1908 on the wrist

As you’ll have gathered by now, both Vacheron Constantin and Rolex can claim some pretty impressive firsts. Rolex produced the first wristwatch that could change the day and date on the dial, as well as the first dual time zone watch and the first model to display both the day and date on the same dial.

As well as becoming the first brand to create a waterproof watch and receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometer Precision, it also became the first brand to master the command bezel. 

While the Oyster Perpetual is the watch that carries all the Rolex hallmarks, the Datejust is the go-to design for those who value sophistication and functionality. Their bezels vary from smooth to fluted to gem-set and are elevated on a functional level by their instantaneous date window at 3H.

The Rolex Sub, on the other hand, is probably the world’s most famous dive watch. Special designs like the Kermit rack up extortionate price tags on the pre-owned market, while the classic black date and no-date models are as popular now as they were during the 1960s. 

Of course, if you know anything about Rolex, you’ll have heard of the Daytona – the 1960s motorsport watch that soared in price after it was spotted on the wrist of Paul Newman. Although not a bestseller at the time, the first-generation Daytona watches featured a distinctive Art Deco style and are now some of the world’s most sought-after watches.

The second-generation Daytona watches are defined by their El Primero movements, before Rolex began equipping them with its Cerachrom bezel inserts. Other famous designs include the Day-Date, fitted with the famous President bracelet, and the GMT-Master II, featuring the iconic and well-deserved red and blue “Pepsi” bezel. 

Vacheron Constantin is known for its rare pieces, but some of its most popular collections are also worth noting since each range offers the collector a different style to choose from. The brand keeps its selections small, its most popular line being the Overseas collection, which embodies the zeitgeist of the 1970s sports watch era with its own rendition of the angular bezel.

The unique rectangular indentations on said bezel echo the brand’s Maltese cross logo. Other popular collections include the Fifty Six dress watch, complete with a 22k gold peripheral rotor, and the more vintage-inspired Historiques collection, celebrating the mechanical watch renaissance of yesteryear. However, the most classic of all VC watches is the Patrimony – a no-frills dress watch for all occasions. 

Build Quality and Materials 

If you’re considering investing in a Vacheron Constantin watch, you must, at some point, have questioned what makes this brand so synonymous with horological excellence. What is this brand doing that earns it the position amongst the top three manufacturers in the world?

Sitting alongside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, there is no argument that Vacheron Constantin has one of the most intriguing histories thanks to being one of the oldest watchmakers in the industry. This uninterrupted heritage comes to life in the hallowed grounds of the brand’s manufacturing facilities, where an affection for the highest horological practices is nurtured.

Apart from the case and bracelet of a VC watch, everything was once made in-house. These time-honored practices extended into some of the most challenging components to produce, like the intricate hairsprings of a movement and pallet forks.

The Geneva striped finishing and perlage you see on a beautifully decorated movement were all once applied by hand, communicating the patience and devotion of every part of a Vacheron Constantin watch. 

Vacheron Constantin also has its own Metiers d’Art department, where just a handful of artisans carry out advanced decorative practices on the dials of some of the brand’s designs. Some of these practices carried out in this department include gem-setting, guilloche work, and intricate dial engraving.

Those fully skilled in mastering the trades carried out here can operate rose engines that create meticulous finishes across the watch’s dial using an ancient practice. The engravers at Vacheron Constantin are no less impressive.

They can spend up to three months on one single watch case. Nor are the enamellers to be overlooked, who work on miniature copies of works of art, faithfully reinterpreting them onto a dial’s surface. The brand also uses a selection of exquisite materials that reflect the high price tag of a VC watch.

While exploring what this brand offers, you’ll see many examples of the materials used in its manufacture. The company uses conventional stainless steel for its sportier models and 18k gold in its dress watch and high-complication models, combined with sapphire crystal glass for everyday wear. The brand also uses diamonds for some of its more refined models, not to mention precious gemstones, and crafts some designs from titanium – a material chosen for its lightweight properties. 

On the other hand, Rolex has well and truly put itself on the map for its range of proprietary materials. In fact, it is this know-how in the field of material manufacture that makes the brand such a well-respected one in the industry. The designation “in-house” goes a long way in watchmaking and carries a lot of weight, allowing brands like Rolex more control over their design and production processes. While many watch buffs may be able to tell you where Rolex watches are made, some may not know the alloys the brand uses for its ridiculously tough and long-lasting cases. 

Rolex has its own research and development department dedicated to crafting new materials, and it is here where its proprietary 18k gold is crafted.

For example, the brand’s rose gold alloy is called Everose and is renowned for its resistance to saltwater and chlorine. The brand’s special blend of 904 stainless steel named Oystersteel also sets this brand’s designs apart, being more corrosion-resistant and harder than 316L stainless steel.

Aside from these case materials, Rolex also specializes in crafting components for the rest of the watch. Its specially formulated luminous paint is named Chromalight, which launched in 2008 and boasts a slightly longer glow with its striking blue emissions.

Rolex also produces its own durable ceramic compound, Cerachrom, which takes roughly 40 hours to create and, from a longevity standpoint, is superior to many alternative bezel materials.

Many in-house movements made by esteemed manufacturers house components crafted from materials resistant to magnetic fields, including the Crown brand. Rolex took five years to perfect the parachrom hairspring, another proprietary and patented element for superior efficiency in a watch.

Suffice to say, while both manufacturers offer a blend of functional and quality materials, Rolex trumps Vacheron Constantin on material innovation, with a range of in-house creations under its belt.

Movements 

Both Rolex and Vacheron Constantin produce their own in-house movements, which is a feat in and of itself.

Many connoisseurs find an independently manufactured movement appealing because it guarantees an element of freedom in the design process and an opportunity to enjoy a range of proprietary components that often promise a better, more efficient, and improved mechanical performance. 

Rolex began producing self-winding models in 1931. Before then, the brand exclusively manufactured manual-winding engines.

As with so many Swiss companies, however, the brand fell victim to the crushing effects of the quartz crisis and, as a result, sought to collaborate with leaders in quartz technology to produce its own Beta 21 quartz movement. Following this, the brand went on to make its own Oysterquartz movements, adapting to the climate and continuing to thrive. 

Having returned to mechanical movement manufacture, Rolex’s catalog brims with some of the most reliable, accurate, and durable movements you can own. It hasn’t changed how it makes mechanical movements since the release of the caliber 3135 three decades ago.

The brand’s movements may not be the most aesthetically pleasing or elaborately decorated. Still, since Rolex is one of the few manufacturers in the world that makes almost all of its own components, its movements consistently show their worth over time, maintaining popularity and contributing to the brand’s resale value on the second-hand market. 

On the other hand, when you see the Maltese cross on a dial, you know it has to be a Vacheron Constantin watch and, therefore, powered by an impeccable movement. VC chose this logo as it represented the shape of the component that fixed to the barrel of its movements, so this symbol is about much more than a brand name itself.

But being the long-in-the-tooth brand that it is, one would think that a Vacheron Constantin watch would be powered by a heritage movement that reflects the traditions and techniques of the long-upheld practices of its manufacturing house.

However, this is the modern world, and for quite some years, the brand has been equipping its watches with movements developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Don’t let this fact alone put you off, though.

JLC has been producing movements for some of the world’s most famous and respectable brands for many years, including Audemars Piguet and Patek – the other two slices of the “Big Three” pie.

The fact that JLC is one of the industry’s top movement manufacturers makes VC no less amazing or luxurious as a brand. But if in-house movement is your bag, Rolex takes this title.   

Prices 

Vacheron Constantin produces around 20,000 timepieces a year, while Rolex produces around 1 million yearly. While these numbers are incomparable in scale, Vacheron Constantin watches offer that all-important exclusivity factor due to being made in limited production batches.

However, part of the desirability of Rolex watches can be equated to their long waiting lists, which drive prices high on the pre-owned market. Since Rolex watches are seen as as more of a statement than a functional tool, they carry colossal wrist presence and can be picked out from across a room. 

Both brands produce watches ranging from a few thousand dollars to tens of thousands of dollars. Vacheron Constantin watches do hold their value better than most other brands on the market.

Still, for the purposes of comparing this brand with Rolex, it’s not the better of the two brands for resale value and value retention. Many Rolex watches can double in value on the second-hand market if they’re deemed scarce or have a particularly appealing design feature that collectors crave.

However, the price of a VC watch is reflected in the level of craftsmanship and the intricacy of its many hand-applied finishes and highly complex features.

As a general rule, the RRP of a Vacheron Constantin watch is higher than that of a Rolex. However, investment-wise, Rolex watches retain their value better and can make for even greater family heirlooms.

Conclusion 

There is an admirable purity to what both Vacheron Constantin and Rolex do in the watchmaking world. Each brand is worthy of the respect it garners for very different reasons. While Vacheron Constantin is admired for its horological complexity and fine, time-honored practices, Rolex is the brand you would go to for a robust, iconic design that oozes style and status.

While Rolex is undoubtedly the most recognized watchmaker, those in the know are more than aware of the masterpieces that an old but lesser-known brand like Vacheron Constantin can produce. Collectors and fans of both respective brands are not first-time buyers.

But while a Rolex watch will appeal to someone who wants to show the world what they have achieved with a statement piece, a Vacheron Constantin collector is someone who enjoys a private type of luxury – a stealth wealth watch that, despite the materials and complexity behind its design, does not instantly smack of flashiness and ostentatiousness.

Settling the debate between Vacheron Constantin vs Rolex can only be done one way, by asking yourself what is important to you in a watch. In some ways, Vacheron Constantin can be considered the brand that makes better watches because of its high complications.

On the other hand, Rolex watches have better resale value and can make the best investments because of their ability to retain value and appreciate over time. VC isn’t as world famous as Rolex, but it does have over 150 years of extra experience in watch manufacturing compared to Rolex.

At the end of the day, you can’t go wrong with either of these watch brands. Both are respected and revered in the watchmaking world, and they have their own strengths and characteristics that stand for exceptional quality and craftsmanship.

rolex air king review

Read This Before You Buy the Rolex Air King

Nina S

March 20, 2025

If someone had given me a crystal ball two years ago, I’d have happily and confidently said that the Rolex Air-King had enjoyed a good innings and predicted it was due to hang up its hat.

Why? Because nothing lasts forever, not even some of the most iconic watches in the world. Indeed, there will come a time when the Royal Oaks and Submariners of the world will be less desirable than they are now.

Perhaps not forgotten altogether, but the ever-changing tide of watch trends washes new designs ashore every week, and slowly but surely, trends are evolving, even if we don’t see the result of those transitions for another decade or so.

Even brands like Omega, TUDOR, Patek Philippe, and Grand Seiko can’t avoid it. That said, some things last longer than expected, and that can certainly be said for the Rolex Air-King. I hold my hands up.

My prediction was wrong because whilst Rolex would go on to discontinue the Air-King reference 116900, it soon followed it up with the reference 126900, and all was good with the world again.

While we’re on the topic of extending collections, I have to say that although Rolex watches are nothing short of legendary – pure excellence – genius, even the Crown brand is not the most adventurous.

Rolex remains at the forefront of indispensable grab-and-go watches, promising remarkable resistance to wear and unmatched durability and toughness throughout the industry. Why, then, does it not experiment more?

After all, it was one of the last brands to jump on board using strong, lightweight titanium for tool watches – a material that has long been used in the aerospace industry for its qualities. How did it mark the occasion, do you think? With a new collection, maybe? Nope! Just another Sea Dweller! (Sea-Dwellers are awesome, by the way!)

Anyway, what I’m saying is that what keeps Rolex admirers hanging on the brand’s every release is the prospect that one day, we might get an entirely new, off-the-wall, and unexpected design.

Until that day, however, we must learn to accept that Rolex is the king of watches because it produces cool, timeless watches for the masses, not because of its experimentation with niche concepts.

Without these successful models, it simply wouldn’t be able to churn out the million watches per year that it does. The Air-King, whether you consider it unadventurous or not, is here to stay, and the reference 126900 has some remarkable features worth mentioning if you’re considering biting the bullet on one.

The Air-King Has Changed. A Lot!

Rolex Air King

For an impressive three-decade duration (nearly four), the Rolex Air-King stayed relatively unchanged from its debut release in 1957. It grew in popularity for its no-nonsense dial and functional beauty.

The last models to honor this much-loved format were those from the 1142XX series, which launched in 2007. Although modified with some slight reworkings, it remained true to that first 1950s model in many ways. This series was eventually given the chop, only for Rolex to unleash a new Air-King design in 2016. 

If you’re familiar with the Bloodhound SCC vehicle, designed to break land speed records at supersonic speeds, you may recall the design of its dash clocks, which Rolex not only helped to design but took inspiration from when creating the new generation of Air-King watches.

Sadly, that record-breaking moment never happened, and the Bloodhound SCC went into administration. Then the pandemic hit. You could say that this series of events scuppered the Air King’s potential to become everyone’s much-loved day-to-day favorite.

But it wasn’t the brand’s most popular design by any stretch of the imagination. Even so, doomed rocket car not, Rolex stood proudly by this design and continued to produce the Air-King. 

At one point, it looked like Rolex would have nowhere to go when building on the Air-King’s design. A reinterpretation of the original design seemed like an impossibility.

Plus, a reworked Air-King, being so similar in design to the Oyster Perpetual already, would sit too close to the brand’s bread-and-butter watch. The Air-King was losing its popularity. But here’s the thing: Rolex launched another one. And it was good. So good.

A Review of the Rolex Air King 126900

The modern Air-King, released in 2022, is largely similar to the Milgauss and is considered a relatively underappreciated design.

Perhaps this can be attributed to the fact that the watch has undergone some rather significant changes over the years. After all, it hasn’t always been a tool watch.

Moreover, its classic dress watch aesthetics previously measured a compact 34mm diameter, while the dial was very minimalist. Post-2014 models, however, came in at a new 40mm diameter, compounding the need to move with the times.

The Case 

The Air-King reference 126900 is nothing like the original 5500 reference from 1957, that much we’ve established already.

However, the mix of Arabic numerals, similar to the Explorer collection, and the military-style 1940s case shape tap into niche pilot watch-collecting circles (although this isn’t a pilot’s watch in the modern form). This is the only Rolex watch that combines a crown guard case with a function-less bezel.

Loosely based on the Milgauss, it features a 40mm stainless steel case without any domed or rounded surfaces.

This should only concern those with a sub-7-inch wrist since it makes the watch appear flat against the skin. That said, the brushing on the flat areas and the polishing on the sides and the bezel is no less impressive than any other tool watch from Rolex.

The case’s design is very much Oyster, regardless of which angle you’re viewing it from. The facets of the case are sharp and angular, almost athletic-looking. Rolex gives the watch a larger lug width, which seems to be a running theme, with similar changes rolled out across the modern Submariner and Explorer II.

The case of the 126900 also features a twin-lock crown and a screwed caseback, and with the addition of the crown guard drastically changes the feel of the case on the wrist, enhancing more of a tool-like feel.

The Dial

Rolex Air King Dial

The dial of the Air-King is different and fun. The minute markers take a little bit of getting used to, but they do challenge you to adopt a new approach to timekeeping the more time you spend wearing the watch. The first thing worth mentioning is the rich black display, which will match pretty much any outfit except for a professional suit, perhaps, since the watch’s overall design is resolutely sporty. 

In the metal, the pop of Rolex green is a nice touch and is seen in the second hand and the Rolex lettering.

The minute markers are very generously lumed and are a marked improvement compared to the previous model, which featured white gold numerals void of any luminescent material. Now, they look reminiscent of the Explorer markers, cementing subtle pilot-style cues.

The addition of the “05” numeral as opposed to the older “5” numeral is another good decision by Rolex, giving the display a stronger sense of balance and matching the “55” marker on the other side.

The Mercedes hands, although reshaped, are out in full force, too, traveling across the dial underneath a strong, flat anti-glare piece of sapphire crystal. Overall, the dial this time around feels more coherent. Many have described the dial of the Rolex Air-King ref.126900 as polarising, which I can relate to.

The layout is crisper and more defined, and the punchy green elements ramp up the sporty undertones of the watch perfectly.

The Movement 

The 2016 Air-King reference 116900 watch was marked as a superlative chronometer for the first time in its career. If you weren’t already aware, that means the movement inside its robust 905L stainless steel case has passed a series of stringent tests to ensure it meets strict quality criteria.

Rolex watches that bear this standard indicate so on the surface of their dials. The precision of these movements is tested using Rolex-developed equipment, promising an impressive accuracy within –2 to +2 seconds.

The Calibre 3131 was fitted inside a case that had just undergone one of the most drastic size increases in the brand’s history, so you can certainly appreciate that this modification took the Rolex community a while to get used to. 

Comparing the initial post-2014 iteration and the second one, some differences are worth mentioning. The case went from a round profile with polished sides to a more chiseled aesthetic with a sharper, more athletic look.

The size, however, stays the same at 40mm, although the thickness of the case has dropped from 13.1mm to a more adequate 11.59mm. This time, the case holds the Calibre 3230, the next generation of the former Calibre 3131.

The movement is another superlative chronometer that exists in other three-handed sports watches throughout the brand’s portfolio. It also performs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and makes use of a Parachrom hairspring – a component that is impervious to magnetism.

Its 70-hour power reserve also makes it a great weekend watch, running accurately from Friday through Sunday should you wish to switch it out for another favorite. This movement also employs the Chronergy escapement, which helps with this impressive power reserve with a fairly new geometry that combines a more efficient gear train with a new, improved barrel.

The Strap

The Rolex Air-King ref 126900 is fitted on an Oyster bracelet, which seamlessly delivers form and function to the wrist in equal measure. The Oysterlock clasp, engraved with the iconic brand logo, prevents you from accidentally opening the bracelet.

At the same time, the Easylink comfort extension link mechanism enables you to increase the length of the bracelet by 5mm. This is a handy feature in the summer when your wrist is contending with warm, humid environments and you’re going from a cold dip in the sea to a dry, hot beach.

The watch has no other configuration, either, so you have to enjoy it for what it is. And without endless strap options pulling you in different directions, you can fully appreciate the rugged and durable watch that Rolex intends it to be.

Everything from the tapering of the bracelet to the brushing and polishing of the link in this design is finished to the high standard one would expect of any Rolex watch.

The lug width of this Air-King is unusual, measuring 21mm, which would make shopping for alternative straps a little trickier than usual. Still, there are strap options to accommodate this size should you want to experiment with different bands over time. 

How Does It Wear? 

As aforementioned, the reference 126900 sits at a more manageable height on the wrist than the reference 116900 did.

The pronounced crown with a more notable fluted design, the safety lock clasp on the Oyster link bracelet, and the crown guard all make for an aesthetically pleasing design if the non-conventional Rolex is what you’re looking for.

As the most non-Rolex of Rolex watches, the design combines an extremely well-built construction with tight tolerances, making for a great daily beater that you should naturally be able to take anywhere.

The awkward lug width I mentioned earlier does have one advantage: it slims the case down, tapering it and enabling it to fit snugly on the wrist.

The slab sides of the watch, however, do make the watch sit relatively flat, and without that much-needed curvature, the case can appear large on slender wrists.

Looking directly at the watch from the side, you’ll likely have some gaps between the wrist and the case, and the first link of the bracelet does articulate beyond the lugs, which is unfortunate. Saying that the rest of the links contour well with the shape of the wrist and sit comfortably against the skin without snagging or rattling.

Overall, the Air-King is lighter and leaner than models like the Sub or the GMT-Master II and will behave well under the cuff of a jacket or sweater. 

Pricing and Availability 

Even though the Air-King isn’t one of the brand’s most in-demand designs, you can still expect to join a waiting list if you’re buying from new at a local stockist.

Options open up once you get on the secondary market, though. Vintage models are surprisingly affordable (starting from around $4-5000), while current models demand a higher price, with references like the 116900 still demanding prices around the $7-8000 mark.

The Air-King has always been a good entry point into the world of Rolex watch collecting, and today, this is still true for pre-owned models on the secondary market.

Although it left little room to expand upon, the reinvention of the Air-King is considered quite a polarising design by many collectors, driving prices up somewhat. Still, in the grand scheme of things, the new Air-King models are still one of the most affordable to invest in. 

The frustrating thing with Rolex watches is that you can’t just take the $7-8000 the brand wants for this watch to a local stockist and walk out with it.

However, being a relatively young model, pre-owned Air-King watches are worth the investment and, in many cases, are still in mint condition. This is certain to cut out any lengthy waiting times.

Conclusion 

There is no denying that the latest Air-King in Rolex’s catalog is unorthodox and somewhat quirky. It’s a design that seems to straddle so many different designs.

The Arabic numerals on the double-digit minute markers are not the easiest to reference and take some time to get used to. But if you’re looking for something unique, the Air-King could be the game changer you’re waiting for.

It’s an individual-looking watch that will attract one of two types of collectors – the type that backs a Rolex regardless of its design or style and the kind that is looking to add a bit of spice to the mix and wants to be proved wrong.

Although it wasn’t a head-over-heels love story for many collectors, the design works. And while this time, I’d rather not predict what the brand will do next, I shall save face and say that I hope the Air-King sticks around for the foreseeable this time.

tissot vs hamilton

Tissot vs Hamilton: Which Swiss Brand is Superior?

Nina S

March 9, 2025

Tissot and Hamilton: if you aren’t familiar with either of these two names, I’d have to assume you’ve been hiding under a rock for several years because they’re two of the most prominent names in the watch industry. They’re both considered gateways into the affordable luxury watch sector. Still, they have different backgrounds and niches to consider if you’re in the market for your first watch (or maybe another).

Choosing between Tissot and Hamilton is like selecting a fine cheese with a bottle of wine. Both have matured over time, have their own flavor, and complement different palettes. And the truth is, much of what we’ll cover in this Tissot vs Hamilton debate depends on personal preference. 

Still, there are some facts you may want to know about both reputable names before taking the plunge since doing the correct research beforehand will ensure you make the right choice. 

Before we delve in, however, know that both Hamilton and Tissot sit in the entry-level bracket, which occupies a large portion of the market. (Generally speaking, this covers anything from around $1-10k). Also, both are under the Swatch Group banner and manufacture their watches in Switzerland, despite Hamilton’s proud American roots.

Now, without further ado, let’s look at the differences between two superior watchmakers in a tale of touchscreen technology and Hollywood movies.

Brand Heritage

Let’s start at the beginning. We’ll look at where both watchmakers began, some of their biggest milestone moments, and their expansion into the mainstream sector of Haute Horlogerie.

The History of Tissot Watches

Tissot Gentleman

Anyone over 40 should be familiar with Tissot, even if they only have a vague interest in watches. Believe it or not, it’s one of the oldest watchmaking companies still operating and has been around since 1853. 

Before becoming a household name, the brand specialized in pocket watches, supplying many of its watches (namely the iconic Tissot “Banana” watch) to Russia before that practice became illegal in 1919. Soon after, Tissot created another Art Deco piece named the Porto, with a tonneau-shaped case that still continues to inspire modern designs today.

Based in Le Locle, Tissot has grown up around illustrious names like Montblanc, Zenith, Mido, Certina, Zodiac, and The Crown watchmaker Rolex. In fact, in the 1930s, the brand partnered with Omega, further cementing its reputation as a reliable and trusted name. 

Then came the Tissot Antimagnetique, the world’s first anti-magnetic watch. Thanks to its association with Omega, Tissot gained access to some incredible movements during this time, making its 1950s and 1960s watches some of the most popular of all. 

At this point, Tissot was at the epicenter of affordable, reliable watchmaking, releasing collections such as the Calatrava, Camping, Visodate, and the Seastar, the latter of which is still widely loved today.

Like many leading brands that the devastating Quartz Crisis hit, Tissot had to think on its feet and change strategy to survive. After switching predominantly to quartz-operated timepieces, a surprising amount of innovation during the 1970s emerged. The brand had already released the world’s first plastic mechanical watch. 

Hence, exploring materials further seemed like a natural progression, unveiling designs like the RockWatch – a timepiece crafted from Alpine graphite – and the WoodWatch in 1988, which followed the PearlWatch a year earlier.

However, the pivotal point for Tissot came in the late 1990s with the brand’s first T-Touch watch. We’ll talk about this in a little more detail further on, but the launch of this unique touchscreen put the brand at the forefront of technical innovation and, thus, the advent of the smartwatch.

The History of Hamilton Watches

Hamilton Watches

Hamilton watch company tells a story of American roots and Swiss adoption. The company’s headquarters now resides in Biel, but it spent the first century of its life in Pennsylvania, US.  

In the beginning, Hamilton focussed on refining some important pocket watches that formed the Broadway Limited collection. This series fundamentally helped develop timekeeping across the American railroad system.

During the First World War, Hamilton played an integral role in developing the wrist-worn watch. Addressing the impractical design of the pocket watch for frontline work, the brand’s first wristwatch arrived in 1917. 

A year later, US airmail flights elected Hamilton as its official timekeeper and, by the 1930s, was recognized as a top choice for four of the US’s major commercial airlines.

Most of Hamilton’s manufacturing focused on wristwatches for World War II during the late 1930s and early 1940s, but beyond that, the brand would become globally recognized for its association with Hollywood. 

Hamilton watches were first noticed on the silver screen in the making of the 1951 film “The Frogmen,” but even more notably, Elvis Presley wore the iconic Ventura on his wrist, “Blue Hawaii,” ten years later. The Ventura pushed the envelope with an asymmetrical case design unlike anything else on the current market. 

This transition towards a more futuristic identity led to its presence in sci-fi films like “2001: A Space Odyssey”, “Men in Black” and “Interstellar.”

Model Variety

Of course, when tackling the Hamilton vs Tissot debate, we must consider factors like selection and choice. Tissot has a wide variety of designs and styles to choose from, and its strategy to pitch its watches to its market differs slightly from that of Hamilton.

Hamilton promotes its products using its American heritage and Hollywood portfolio to leverage its appeal to worldwide followers. It has a presence in major watch markets, focusing on quality and craftsmanship, and is prominently featured as a luxury item in retailer and boutique settings.

Tissot, renowned for its affordability, is also available in a large selection of retail stores and has a strong online presence. It drives its products to the heart of those who love the Swiss element of watch manufacture, especially since its heritage dates back almost 200 years. 

Of those watches that exemplify the brand’s penchant for creating classic timepieces, the T-Classic collection has to be the most diverse and broad selection of timeless models. It’s where you can find sporty models like the PRX and the PR100, while the Classic Dream series is home to some of the brand’s most sophisticated dress watches.

Hamilton’s designs also echo the same sense of brand provenance but in designs like the Ventura. The distinctive boomerang shape of the case is unmissable and became even more famous once stylized on the wrist of the King of Rock, Elvis Presley. 

Other models that represent the best of Hamilton’s craftsmanship include the Khaki collection, with a huge range of models primed for land (Khaki Field), sea (Khaki Navy), and sky (Khaki Aviation).

Design

When it comes to watchmaking innovation and technology, both Tissot and Hamilton have contributed in significant ways – Hamilton with its cinematic legacy and Tissot with its forward-thinking touchscreen watches.

Hamilton watches have a classic American style but often feature vintage or military-inspired aesthetics. Hamilton watches are great conversation starters for those who value heritage and tradition, so you’ll never struggle for an interesting topic to talk about when someone notices your wristwatch.

And while some models are rugged and almost tool-like, others, like the Jazzmaster, can be enjoyed at formal occasions and with more refined attire.

Tissot offers a broader choice of designs for business and casual attire. And if simplicity in a watch is your reference, then Tissot certainly provides that. It’s also the brand to explore if you like contemporary styles over timepieces that give off vintage military-esque vibes. One example is the Le Locle collection – a series of elegant designs named after the company’s origins. 

Of course, one of the company’s most technically impressive designs is the T-Touch, which has subsequently grown into the brand’s smartwatch offerings, not to mention its solar-powered models. 

Today, T-Touch watches enable seamless touchscreen functionality with touch-sensitive sapphire crystals that allow you to navigate features like an altimeter, barometer, compass, and thermometer.

Build Quality & Materials

People mainly recognize Tissot for its extensive sports watch offerings, so it should be no surprise that it crafts most of its designs from stainless steel for a rugged and durable look. That said, some feature gold or titanium or have luxurious gold coatings or stealthy black PVD-coated finishes. 

Of course, this selection of quality materials and the use of sapphire glass combine with advanced features like the brand’s touchscreen technology to showcase the brand’s commitment to attention to detail.

While many of Tissot’s sports watches are rugged and ready for outdoor pursuits, Hamilton watches are also primed for plenty of outdoor use. They are sturdy and long-lasting, and the military aesthetics you see in some of the brand’s models help achieve that all-important field-watch look.

One good thing about comparing a Hamilton watch with a Tissot watch is that quality build and materials are a given regardless of which one you’re leaning toward.

Because both brands belong under the Swatch Group, they each come with a two-year warranty, which will cover you for any manufacturing defects. 

However, it won’t cover you for general wear and tear, loss, or damage caused by misuse, so you must check out how to look after your watch correctly before investing in either brand of watch.

Hamilton’s customer care service addresses technical issues, while Tissot’s approach to customer service seems more generalist, appealing to a broader clientele.

Movements

Hamilton watches feature automatic movements that are known for their reliability and accuracy. So do Tissot watches. In fact, both use ETA movements.

The key thing to note about ETA movements is that they’re very affordable, enabling both brands to keep manufacturing costs down and offer their respective consumers an accessible price point.

Aside from using third-party movements, Tissot modifies some calibers, like the Swissmatic movement and the Powermatic 80. The latter, for example, is based on a movement made for the brand by ETA but is more expensive due to the modifications it has undergone to give it an impressive 80-hour power reserve.

The same can be said for Hamilton. While many of its watches are ETA-powered, some feature movements with an increased power reserve. An example would be the H30, whereas others are Valjoux modifications, not to mention manual-winding movements for those who love tradition.

It’s also worth noting that both brands offer quartz-powered watches for those shopping on a sub-$500 budget.

Price Point

Whether it’s design aesthetics or quality materials, individuals often engage in discussions such as the Tissot vs Hamilton debate while they navigate the world of Swiss watches to find the perfect watch that aligns best with their preferences.

Whatever those most important factors are for a consumer, price will play some role in the decision-making process.

Good news for those buying on a budget because both Tissot and Hamilton occupy the affordable sector. That means you won’t have to remortgage your home to buy one, nor will you need to spend years and years saving for one. 

At the same time, neither brand is dirt cheap, so you know you’re getting good value for your money when you invest in either of these two brands.

The average cost of a Hamilton watch is around $750, though prices can reach around $4,000. On the contrary, a Tissot watch’s average cost is a couple hundred dollars less, with more advanced watches costing around $2,000 depending on the design. 

Therefore, we can say that Hamilton is a slightly more premium brand than Tissot. Even so, a considerable part of Tissot’s success is down to the versatility of its pricing, offering a broader price range and thus appealing to a slightly wider audience.

At the end of the day, though, there’s not much in it. Both brands offer a vast array of affordable options, a choice of quartz and automatic versions, and a range of styles and sizes.  

Conclusion

What’s so important about Hamilton’s heritage is that its American origins still play a significant role in the designs we see in its catalog today. Collections like the American Classic are modern examples of such. 

The brand’s American heritage and its identity are still very much intertwined. Interestingly, some of the company’s formerly retired designs, like the Boulton, were relaunched during the 1980s. Examples like this appeal to collectors looking for something different but with the assurance of the “Swiss Made” label.

On the other hand, Tissot is Swiss through and through, and that’s sometimes enough to sway a collector without considering anything else.

Models like the PRX have become a more affordable but equally stylish alternative to more expensive sports watch players, like Audemars Piguet with its Royal Oak or Patek and its famous Nautilus.

When you compare build quality, materials, and precision across both brands, there are very few major differences between a Hamilton watch and a Tissot watch, so we only need to look skin deep. Both demonstrate excellent value for money, are fitted with equally good movements, and are crafted from good quality materials.

While Tissot is the brand you’d go for if you wanted a robust sports watch, Hamilton is the expert in field watches, with models like the Khaki Field, Aviation, and Navy enjoying much of the brand’s attention. 

And while connoisseurs often accuse Tissot of playing things a little safe with its classic offerings, they are timeless nonetheless and perfect for everything from a run in the park to a sophisticated black tie event.

But if your collection lacks something a little off-the-wall, Hamilton dares to push the boundaries of watch etiquette a little, with designs like the Jazzmaster, the Face2Face, and the 1950s Ventura to explore.

In the end, choosing between Tissot and Hamilton watches all boils down to preference. Both have a heritage to shout about.

Both, in some way or another, have donated something significant to watchmaking innovation and technology. Most of all, both brands share the same values of reliability, robustness, and longevity.

If you’re still torn, I suggest you take your time to research each brand thoroughly. Research the collections in detail; in doing so, something you see or read is bound to resonate with you and your ideals. It may be a part of the brand’s history or watchmaking ethics. Either way, when something clicks, you’ll know for sure which brand your wrist is calling out for.

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