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Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review

Posted on August 30, 2024September 25, 2024 by Michael Brown

During the Covid-19 pandemic, we became keenly aware of global events and their relationship to our own locations and situations. As the lockdown eased, we jumped over our quarantine fences, eager to travel again and cross multiple time zones on our way to new adventures.

Longines is a longstanding, storied brand that knows a great deal about travel and hurdling boundaries. Since their inception, the brand’s exceptional timepieces have played a historic role in amazing feats of trailblazers of all sorts, especially early 20th-century aviation pioneers.

So, it’s no surprise in this renewed period of world exploration that Longines released a watch honoring these roots while offering a modern, featured-packed value proposition in the form of the Spirit Zulu Time GMT.

This review will provide a close-up look at this groundbreaking GMT watch and how Longines has positioned it as a flagship piece that captures the true “spirit” of the company’s exploration history.

About the Longines Spirit Zulu Time

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT debuted in 2022 and is capable of tracking multiple time zones. Traditionally, the acronym GMT has referred to “Greenwich Mean Time”, which is the Prime Meridian (representing 0˚) that runs through the courtyard of the Royal Observatory in southeast London.

A more modern term is “UTC” or “Coordinated Universal Time”. Another older one is “Zulu Time”, signifying “zero hours”, and is derived from the NATO phonetic alphabet universally used by pilots and military personnel.

The Zulu Time’s aviation roots are clearly shown through its oversized crown, Arabic numerals, and highly legible dial. Still, the watch design follows current “new-vintage reinterpretation” trends.

Also, it offers great build quality and execution enhanced with contemporary finishing touches, bracelets and straps featuring cutting-edge perks like a quick-change release system for fast and easy switch-outs, leather deployant straps with “on-the-fly” micro-adjustment, and a proprietary, COSC-certified movement.

The Longines Zulu Time is available in 42mm and 39mm case sizes in both steel-only and “two-tone” steel and gold, a large palette of colorways, and stainless steel bracelet, leather, and canvas NATO-style strap options that vary according to the model.

There are currently 18 references (9 each in both 42mm and 39mm options), the majority of which are available at Exquisite Timepieces.

History of Longines Spirit Watches

Longines was founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, by Auguste Agassiz. Longines is one of the oldest luxury watch manufacturers in the world, and their winged, hourglass logo dates to 1889, making it the oldest trademark still in use in its original form registered with the World Intellectual Property Organization.

Now a part of the Swatch Group, Longines combines “old school” sensibilities with the synergistic power of economies of scale and contemporary watchmaking technology.

Among Longines’ early innovations were the world’s first monopusher chronograph in 1878 and high frequency (36,000 bph) pocket watch in 1929. Many associate the advent of GMT watches with the 1950s, but Longines staked out the multiple timezone turf much earlier.

In 1908, the company created their first two timezone pocket watches, and in 1925, Longines launched their forerunner dual-time wristwatch, which featured the “Zulu” flag on its dial.

Longines’ archive is filled with watches carrying the stories of men and women who bravely struck out and redrew boundary lines during the rise in global exploration that marked the early 20^th century.

Famous pilots such as Charles Lindbergh, Amelia Earhart, Howard Hughes, and Amy Johnson, as well as Arctic explorers like Paul-Emile Victor, all wore Longines watches on their adventures.

This long-standing essence of exploration animates the soul of the modern Longines “Spirit” collection, which was rolled out in 2020. The company’s goal was to combine “traditional features of pilot’s watches” and combine them with “contemporary lines and codes”.

Since the Zulu Time’s launch in 2022, Longines has positioned it as the “crown jewel” of the Spirit collection and the perfect travel companion for contemporary adventurers possessing all levels of skill and ambition.

Longines Zulu Time: In-Depth Review

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time has been one of the hottest new GMT watches on the scene since 2022. As we drill down into its impressive specs, it will become obvious why it has become the focus of attention for so many enthusiasts and collectors.

Case Sizes & Materials

The initial case size and material offered in 2022 was all-steel with a 42mm diameter, a relatively large lug-to-lug width of 49.40mm, a lug width of 22mm, and a center thickness of 13.90mm.

The reception was enthusiastic, but the solid end links produced an even wider fit, which did not suit a significant number of people who might have otherwise bought in, including this writer. I tried on the initial 42mm version in early 2022 in Lucerne, Switzerland, during a vacation.

I was itching to commemorate my own “expedition” to the Swiss Alps with a GMT, but the excessive lug overhang on my 6.5-inch wrist prevented me from pulling the trigger.

Longines heard from many asking for a more universally sized, sub-40mm case. Proving themselves a company responsive to constructive feedback, Longines quickly answered with a 39mm diameter model in 2023 with a slimmer and more wrist-confirming profile and a reduced lug-to-lug width of 46.80mm, 21mm lug width, and a center-thickness of 13.50mm.

For those wanting a touch more elegance, Longines added “two-tone” Zulu Time steel models in both diameters enhanced with a 200-micron thick, 18K gold capped crown (all-gold except for the central steel inner tube) and external bezel ring.

The crystal is domed sapphire, and the crown is slightly oversized in the manner of aviation-focused watches, making for easy grasping and smooth turning. The steel is mostly satin brushed, but the multi-faceted lugs receive a nice aesthetic boost in the form of a polished chamfered edge to enhance the transition between levels.

The caseback is solid, secured with 6 screws to provide 100 meters of water resistance, and engraved with the Longines Zulu Time name framing a winged, hourglass logo superimposed over a stylized globe etched with latitudinal and longitudinal lines.

Bezels

The main byword to remember about the Zulu Time bezel is: Ceramic! How often do you get a richly colored, glossy ceramic bezel on a watch in this price range? Rarely.

Both diameter sizes are available in bezel colorways of black, dark green, and blue for all-steel cases, with the addition of chocolate brown for steel/18K gold case references. The 24-hour bezel is marked with white, non-lumed Arabic numerals in most models and vintage faux patina (i.e. “khaki”) in the steel/gold version.

The bidirectional, rotating coin edge bezel turns and ratchets smoothly with 24 clicks and can be used to track two time zones with the bezel in the natural position (triangle at the 12 o’clock position) or rotated to show three (e.g., local, UTC, and UTC offset).

Dials

The Zulu Time’s dial aesthetics and execution support Longines’ strategic goal of honoring the past while embracing the future. The collection is filled with dial, bezel, and handset colors and combinations for everyone, whether a traditionalist who seeks a vintage vibe or a modernist leaning more toward contemporary design cues.

Among the 18 references in the Zulu Time collection, there are multiple dial and bezel color combinations varying according to case materials and strap/bracelet options (I’ll cover some of these in more detail under “Most Popular” models). Remember that all available combinations are obtainable in both 42mm and 39mm case diameters.

Beyond the color palette, other dial features include baton hour and minute hands, a seconds hand with a diamond-shaped tip, and an arrow-tipped, bi-colored GMT hand. Both extend all the way to the minute track and chapter ring, creating enhanced legibility, with the GMT sitting close to the dial but high enough to clear the applied Arabic numeral hour indices.

The depth created by the indices is further enhanced by small, lumed diamond cuts in both the dial face next to each hour marker and step up chapter ring. The Zulu Time’s Super-LumiNova® illumination level is not “diver quality” but is still more than adequate for terrain activities.

There is a date window at 6 that balances well vertically with the Longines stamp, logo, and the somewhat controversial “5 stars” emblem, which, while making for a little too much dial clutter for some tastes, is nevertheless a nod to Longines’ past use of the term to describe their watches’ superlative quality.

Movement

In the past, Longines developed and produced their own movements. However, since being acquired by the Swatch Group, the company has relied more on its stepsibling company ETA for its movements.

The Zulu Time GMT uses the L844.4 caliber, which is derived from a base caliber ETA A31.411 that Longines and ETA modified to meet COSC-certified chronometer standards (+6/-4 seconds per day).

While not an “in-house” movement in the most technical sense, it is nonetheless a proprietary, automatic powerplant that not only attains certified chronometer performance but also features a 72-hour power reserve, 21-jewels, a beat rate of 25,200 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz), a date complication (but no quick set), and a silicon balance spring for enhanced antimagnetic protection.

But probably the most important feature in the minds of GMT aficionados is the Zulu Time’s “true” or “traveler’s” GMT capability (as opposed to a “desk” or “calling” GMT). A “traveler” GMT is more suited for someone crossing multiple time zones since it has a “jumping” hour hand that can be changed independently of the GMT hand without interrupting the watch’s timekeeping functions. This allows globetrotters to set the new local time with the hour hand while leaving the GMT hand unchanged from one’s home time zone.

Strap Options

The Longines Zulu Time is offered with an all stainless steel bracelet, brown, blue, or beige leather strap, or brown synthetic NATO strap, depending on the reference.

The stainless steel bracelet is a 3-link style with solid end links and mostly brushed satin finishing except for thin outer sections of the inner links, the inner edges on the outer links, and the ends of the outer links.

There is a sharp, vintage-style taper to a 2-button, fold-over Longines-stamped clasp with 5 traditional micro-adjustment settings. Pins are used to remove links for adjustments, and there is no “on-the-fly” adjustment. While not quite as refined as the case, the bracelet is nonetheless very good quality and more than up to the task of everyday wear with a sporty dash of flair.

Leather straps are high-quality calfskin and come with a convenient, “on-the-fly” micro-adjust feature operated by a two-button system on the side of the engraved, Longines signatured deployant clasp.

Both the bracelet and straps come with a quick-change release system that allows convenient and hassle-free swap-outs of the various options. The synthetic brown NATO strap is currently available only with the steel/18K gold case models.

Most Popular Longines Spirit Zulu Time Models

Here are 5 popular Zulu Time models that demonstrate the wide range of the collection:

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Green Bezel 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.63.6)

A refined, “sweet spot”-sized 39mm diameter steel case combined with a dark green bezel and anthracite dial produces a striking appearance, and the gilt handset and indices, along with heavy faux patina, enable this piece to lean vintage and give the company’s past pioneers a full frontal hug.

While some collectors object to the faux vintage trend in modern watches, the bonus of a matching stainless steel bracelet with contemporary perks (which costs only $100 more than leather strap references) nonetheless makes this model one of the most popular in the Zulu Time lineup.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Black Dial 42mm (ref. L.812.4.53.6)

This reference offers a viable alternative for those who don’t favor faux vintage styling and instead want more modern design elements.

Part of the initial 2022 42mm launch, it features a stainless steel bracelet, a white color scheme for the handset, indices and bezel markings, and a black/ black bezel-dial combination that adds sport/dress versatility paired with a playful splash of contrasting blue on the GMT hand and in the “Zulu Time” lettering on the dial.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Blue Dial 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.93.2)

This is perhaps the boldest and most avant-garde Zulu Time reference. We could nickname it the “Triple-B” for its blue bezel, blue dial, and blue leather strap with contrasting white stitching.

The orange tip and arrow of the GMT hand and the ‘Zulu Time’ stamp provide an additional pop of color. It’s definitely a sportier look, but remember that quick-change release system. You can dress it up or tone it down as your mood or situation dictates by spending some extra bucks for a Longines steel bracelet or beige or brown strap (or an aftermarket option).

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Two-Tone 39mm on Leather Strap (ref. L3.802.5.53.2)

If you need a little bit of precious metal in your life and on your wrist, this one is a good option. Two-hundred microns of 18K Gold cap on both the crown and bezel edge give this an upscale feel without being overstated or screaming, “Hey mister, mug me!”

It has vintage styling and colorways that feel similar to the steel-only ref. L3.802.4.63.6, but a leather strap instead of metal tones it down even further and strengthens the deceptive “stealth wealth” sleight of hand.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Black Dial 39mm on Leather Strap (ref. L3.802.4.53.2)

This reference packs a well-finished, stainless steel case size for a wide range of wrists, a black/black bezel-dial color scheme with a sharp snap of contrasting blue on the “Zulu Time” dial stamp and GMT hand, and a high-quality brown leather strap with white stitching.

If not an exemplar of a “one and done” watch, it still emits a quintessential jack-of-all-trades “GADA” vibe that can walk the tightrope between dress and sport, especially with the addition of a steel bracelet.

Should You Buy a Longines Zulu Time?

If you’re in the market for one of the best all-around “true GMT” value propositions, you should definitely put the Longines Spirit Zulu Time on your shortlist— then on your wrist. I know that if I ever meet a 39mm model “in the wild” and try it on, my wallet will likely end up a little lighter.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Pricing & Availability

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT is readily available (including at Exquisite Timepieces), and the retail price range, depending on the reference features, is $3,050-$4,550. Exquisite Timepieces also currently lists a preowned 42mm all-steel model for $2,300.

Conclusion

Considering Longines’ rich brand history of pioneering and the Zulu Time GMT’s unique blend of heritage, fine finishing, and cutting-edge technology that would normally only be seen in watches costing thousands more, you would be hard-pressed to find a better watch to accompany you on your travels, whether they take you to Timbuktu or simply down the street to buy milk at your local Target.

UPDATE: Since this review was written, Longines has bolstered their Zulu Time offerings with their release of an all-titanium model (ref. L3.802.1.53.6) that is already producing tremendous buzz among watch enthusiasts. The 39 mm case and bracelet are Grade 5 titanium with a gilted handset but white (no faux patina) numerals on the bi-color (half matt black, half polished black) bi-directional 24-hour bezel. At $4,275 US it’s a significant jump in price from its all-steel siblings, but the added robustness and reduced weight of titanium still make this model a surefire hit and a great value proposition.

Grand Seiko SBGA413 Review

Posted on August 30, 2024August 30, 2024 by Michael Brown

I grew up in Southwest Virginia and experienced four well-defined seasons. Little did I realize back then that I underestimated the numerous subtle nuances of a revolution around the sun and the “nature of time” it could convey.

Fortunately, Japanese culture, particularly Grand Seiko, has taught me more. The Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Shunbun” (Spring Equinox) is both part of the Heritage Collection “Four Seasons” line initially launched in the U.S. (now available worldwide) and a larger group of the brand’s models that honor the Japanese concept of 4 main seasons with 6 phases for a total of 24 sekki.

Also nicknamed the “Cherry Blossom”, the SBGA413 is an excellent example of the superb aesthetics and veneration for artisanal craftsmanship (Takumi) for which the Grand Seiko is known. Like its more well-known “Snowflake” older sibling, the Shunbun dial is breathtaking and mesmerizing, designed to depict the light pink cherry blossoms (Sakura) that quickly flower and fall in the Japanese spring.

But there is so much more to this time-measuring masterpiece than its pretty face. Let’s take a closer look at this amazing watch and gain a greater appreciation for its wholeness and beauty, both inside and out.

History

First, a short history lesson. In 1881, Japanese watchmaker Kintarō Hattori opened his watch and jewelry shop in Tokyo and named his growing brand “Seiko” in 1924. By the late 1950s, Seiko’s affordable and accessible watches were becoming popular worldwide.

In 1960, the company launched the Grand Seiko sub-brand to produce luxury timepieces that would compete with their Swiss counterparts in both refinement and accuracy. In 2017, Grand Seiko became an independent brand.

Per the Grand Seiko website, the SBGA413 Shunbun is “a modern re-interpretation of the celebrated 62GS from 1967.” The 62GS contained Grand Seiko’s first automatic movement and was renowned for its no-bezel case and open, easy-to-read dial, multiple facets and striking angular lines on both the case and lugs, and highly polished (Zaratsu) surfaces, features which are still present and even more pronounced in the contemporary version.

Building on the successful 2005 launch of the “Snowflake,” the company’s first watch featuring a textured, artistic dial, Grand Seiko introduced the Heritage Collection’s “Four Seasons” line in 2019 in the United States only.

However, in 2022, the company made the “Spring” SBGA413 and its sibling references—“Winter” (SBGA415), “Summer” (SBGH271), and “Fall” (SBGH273)—available online and in Grand Seiko boutiques around the world.

Case

The SBGA413’s “family resemblance” to the case of its ancestor 62GS is obvious at first glance in shape, dimensions, and finishing—but not material.

The case diameter is 40mm with a case thickness of 12.8mm (which includes the prominent, dual-curved, boxed sapphire crystal), and a lug width of 21mm coupled with a lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm.

Together with the case’s no-bezel open face and angular but curving shape and conforming lugs, the Shunbun’s “sweet spot” case specs make for a “right-sized” watch for a wide range of wrists (more on that later under “On-Wrist Experience”).

However, the case material is not your grandfather’s 62GS stainless steel. The Shunbun is instead made of grade 5 titanium, which is renowned for its strength, extreme light weight, and high scratch resistance.

Add to that a matching titanium bracelet (covered further under “Bracelets and Straps”), and you get an extremely comfortable, 3.5-ounce featherweight all-day wearing experience that would make you forget you’re even wearing a watch were it not for the way you keep staring at its stunning dial and fine finishing touches.

Although titanium has a slightly darker tone than stainless steel, Grand Seiko’s use of mirrored Zaratsu distortion-free hand polishing combined with brushed satin finishing on the multi-sided case and lugs makes the spaceship-strength material light up like a gleaming Samurai sword flashing in sunlight.

While the case’s throwback style and superb finishing lean “dress”, its stamped, screw-down crown and 100-meter water resistance lend enough of a “sport” vibe to make it a versatile and potentially everyday timepiece. And if you still want grandad’s stainless steel after all, it is available in both the “Summer” and “Fall” versions.

The dual-curved, box-domed sapphire crystal is paired with a sapphire display caseback that showcases the innovative and ornate Grand Seiko Spring Drive. And therein lies one of the few legitimate pickable nits about the Shunbun: a large, gold Grand Seiko lion seal partially obscures the watch’s beautifully finished movement. Meant to honor the medallion caseback of the original 62GS, it was well-intended but overdone.

Perhaps a less prominent and more transparent seal would still celebrate the brand’s heritage without hiding the intricate beauty and high-flying tech of the Spring Drive.

Dial

The well-executed SBGA413 case essentially serves as an ornate but still subordinate “picture frame” to hold the true star of the show: the highly textured, glistening, pale pink yet multichromatic Shunbun dial. It is intended to evoke the impression of the cherry blossoms that bloom and quickly fall around the Spring Equinox in Japan.

Often the blooms fall onto water, swirl, and start to float away (like time itself), and the Japanese have a term for this also: hana-Ikada, which means “flower rafts”.

That’s an ambitious aim, but with a mix of old-school craftsmanship and proprietary modern techniques, Grand Seiko hits the mark. The dial’s texture is 3-dimensional, mimicking the undulations of a petal floating on water that look to me like “puffy” pale pink clouds etched with fine lines resembling an artist’s brushstrokes on a canvas.

Pink, that is, until they turn something else, like silver, white, or a combination of the three. The dial doesn’t just “play with the light” when you observe it from different angles. It orchestrates multiple wavelengths like a conductor does the many pieces of a symphony. With the Shunbun, you never know exactly which combination of colors you’re going to see, and it’s possible you may not even see the same one twice.

The dial is further festooned with a brushed satin Dauphine hour and minute handset and applied indices accented with Zaratsu polished edges that glint like sunlight on a stream’s surface. A gold-colored applied “GS” logo near 12 o’clock adds even more dimensionality. The black, printed “Grand Seiko” stamp and encircling minute track add contrast and character to the rippling, variegated surface.

A smooth, highly polished seconds hand, powered by the Spring Drive movement, sweeps more smoothly than any automatic ever could, converting the dial into a kinetic sculpture. The 72-hour power reserve indicator sits between the center of the dial and the 7- 8 o’clock positions. There’s a framed date window at 3. Both complications provide practicality and a pleasing touch of imbalance and interest to the serene, mostly symmetrical scene.

Like a masterpiece painting in a museum, no prose, poetry, or one-dimensional, high-resolution macro shot will ever do the Shunbun dial complete justice. You simply have to get hands-on and see it in person and from varying distances and angles to experience its full mesmerizing and transforming effect.

Movement

While the stunning “Spring” dial catches the eye and doesn’t let go, the brand’s innovative in-house Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive enables the Grand Seiko SBGA413 to not just match but even exceed the exacting timekeeping standards of its Swiss competitors.

Regarding the term “in-house”, let’s be clear: the 9R65 is not a lightly modified, off-the-shelf ETA or Sellita movement like some Swiss brands use, but instead a groundbreaking, proprietary movement that combines both mechanical and electrical components to produce high-performance, quartz-like accuracy.

The Grand Seiko launched the Spring Drive in 1999, and since then the movement has gone through several iterations and improvements. The company officially calls the 9R65 version an “Automatic Spring Drive 3 Day” in reference to its robust 72-hour power reserve.

It has hackable seconds and complications, including a quick set date and a power reserve indicator. There are 30 jewels, and the seconds hand oscillates at 32,768 Hz, which results in a gliding, shudder-free movement that, according to the company, symbolizes “the beautiful, natural flow of time.” The 9R65’s quartz-like accuracy is rated at an eye-popping +/- 1 second per day or +/- 15 seconds per month.

This amazing precision is accomplished by using a mainspring to store potential energy, which is released to power the movement, so it has no battery. Instead, it is hand-windable with a rotor for automatic winding just like a traditional mechanical movement. However, there is no escapement to control the speed of the energy release.

In its place, Grand Seiko employs a “Tri-Synchro Regulator”, which, as the name implies, uses 3 types of energy to regulate the various components and processes that produce synchronicity:

The potential energy release from the mainspring;
A high-performance integrated circuit (IC) quartz oscillator that produces an electronic signal from the motion of the mainspring; and,
The transfer and synching of the electronic signal with a “magnetic brake” to control the spin of the glide wheel at exactly 8 revolutions per second which produces the amazing quartz-like accuracy.

If, like me, you’re neither an electrical engineer nor a certified watchmaker, you might need some illustrations and animations to help you get the full picture. Here’s a good video that does just that.

The 9R65 is not just a powerful and precise engine but also a work of fine art unto itself, as displayed through the sapphire caseback. Together with the beautiful textured, colorful dial, the result is the museum painting equivalent of two exquisite pieces of art on both the front and back of the frame.

It is composed of over 200 colorful components that are hand-assembled. Polished parts and high-end finishing touches, such as diamond cut stripes, enhance the visual effect of the complex, intricate movement.

If Grand Seiko would just alter the display caseback and go a little lighter on the aforementioned brand lion logo in order to provide a less obstructed view of this showcase gem of a movement as they have in other models, the end result would be essentially perfect.

Bracelets and Straps

A watch with a finely manufactured and finished dial, case, and movement begs for a quality bracelet or strap to pair with it and bind the object of joy and satisfaction to the owner’s wrist.

The Grand Seiko Shunbun comes with a matching titanium bracelet with solid end links and a staggered alignment 3-link design with mostly satin brush finishing except for the edges of the center links, which are Zaratsu polished.

That combination matches the case’s alternating finishes, and the polished edges contrast nicely with the rest of the bracelet. The bracelet is secured with a Grand Seiko logo stamped, single fold clasp with a twin-button release to prevent accidental opening. Rather than screws, the watch has a pin and collar system for link removal and sizing.

Being titanium, it is naturally very lightweight, and it looks and feels like it has been manufactured with the same care and exacting standards as the rest of the watch.

However, if there is a “weak link” (heh) in the SBGA413, it is nevertheless found in the bracelet, which has a few quirks that the potential buyer should know about on the front end. For instance, the clasp does not sit completely flush with the bracelet but extends out slightly, increasing the chances of accidental snagging.

There is no fine adjustment, a feature usually found on watch bracelets at most price levels, but there are two half links on each side of the clasp to improve the chances of a good fit. The lug width is the odd 21mm, making it harder to pair with after-market straps than watches with 20 or 22mm lug widths.

But, many companies are starting to offer more 21mm choices in popular material, style, and color options. Also, some have noted slightly loose tolerances between the end links and watch case, and in their opinion, a little too much gap and jiggle for a $6000 watch.

Still, we’re really using a fine-tooth comb and a microscope to find such minor flaws. The bottom line is that the bracelet is of top-notch quality and pairs very well—if not perfectly—with the watch it holds.

On-Wrist Experience

My local Grand Seiko AD didn’t have a Shunbun in their showcase but did have another all-titanium Heritage Collection model with the same case style and a Spring Drive available to try on. If you’re accustomed to the heft of stainless steel and haven’t tried on a titanium watch before, “heads up” because it can be a little trippy.

My first impression was: Whoa, that thing is so light it practically flies out of my hand! But don’t mistake “lightweight” for “cheaply made” because Grand Seiko is a top-level luxury watch brand.

Beyond the comfortable featherweight feel, the watch fit well inside the width of my 6.5-inch wrist, even with the solid end links and 21mm lug width that slightly increase its presence. The short lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm allows an acceptable fit on wrists of 6 inches or even slightly smaller, and the no-bezel design allows the watch to stand out on larger wrists in the 7.5-inch range.

The slim Spring Drive and case design allow for a slender 12.8 mm thickness, so there is no problem fitting this watch under a cuff—although you’ll probably be constantly sliding it down to bare wrist in order to show it off to others, not to mention stare at it yourself.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGA413 retails for $6,600. Per Watchcharts.com, the average preowned price as of this writing is $4,654, with an approximate range of $4,275-$5,000. The Shunbun is readily available at many Grand Seiko Authorized Dealers, including Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

As I mentioned in the beginning, during the course of researching and writing this review, Grand Seiko became a “time tutor” who taught me seasonal change is more like a full chorus than a quartet.

The luxury brand’s SBGA413 Shunbun is an ornate, highly accurate, and versatile watch suitable for many occasions. But it’s more than that: it’s a beautiful piece of “wrist art” with nuances you can savor and philosophical lessons about the “nature of time” you can learn and then live out.

To riff on a tagline for another highly accurate watch from a different era: “It’s not a timepiece. It’s a contemplation piece.”

The ULTIMATE Omega Aqua Terra Review

Posted on June 6, 2024June 6, 2024 by Michael Brown

Trying to find a “go anywhere, do anything” (GADA) everyday watch suitable for either the seaside and swimsuit or boardroom and business suit is like being hungry for both seafood and steak. You scan the restaurant menu for a “surf and turf” option, but typically, there’s only one combo offered.

But imagine sitting down in a restaurant that specializes in combining both. The chefs cook a large variety of beef cuts and types of fish in a wide, mouth-watering range of styles and ingredients and then plate the delicious dishes with flair and color. You can also order a right-sized portion that fits your appetite.

You may be waiting a long time for a restaurant with that kind of versatility and quality, but you don’t have to for the perfect “surf and turf” watch. It’s available now: Omega’s Seamaster Aqua Terra, comfortable on both land and sea, perfect for a tux or tee.

I’ll be covering a lot of terrain—and water—in this review: general description, history, and in-depth looks at specifications, options, popular models, suitability, pricing, and availability. So, let’s hit the ground running and jump into the deep end of the pool.

About the Omega Aqua Terra

The Aqua Terra’s name reflects its essential duality and “reason for being”: “Water” + “Land”. Since its launch in 2002, Omega has positioned the Aqua Terra as a “middle way”, connecting the sporty Speedmaster chronographs and Seamaster diver collections with the dressier Constellation and De Ville models.

The Aqua Terra is understated and elegant for formal events, sturdy and reliable for the everyday grind, and “seaworthy” enough for the majority of people to have fun in or near the water. Add to those appealing qualities its large menu of options and styles, and the Aqua Terra shines as the perfect GADA watch and a top-shelf luxury model that competes fiercely with Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual and Datejust – but with a smaller price tag and ready availability.

History of Omega Aqua Terra Watches

The Aqua Terra’s strong Seamaster family connection with Omega’s first dress-style, water resistant watch of 1948 and the original Seamaster 300 (not to be confused with the contemporary Diver 300M) launched in 1957 has remained strong since 2002, even as design elements, movements, and the number of models offered have evolved and proliferated.

The first automatic movement used in the Aqua Terra was the ETA Caliber 2500, a Co-Axial escapement design by legendary watchmaker George Daniels and adopted by Omega in 1993. In 2007, the Aqua Terra received an updated in-house, Co-Axial, COSC-certified Caliber 8500, which significantly improved accuracy and reliability.

2017 saw the introduction of the Co-Axial Calibers 8800 and 8900 used in the majority of Aqua Terras today, both carrying the METAS Master Chronometer certification and an accuracy of 0/+5 seconds a day.

In addition to the versatile Aqua Terra mainstay models comprising the heart of the collection, Omega introduced several other iterations over the years, including a chronograph, GMTs, annual calendar, golf releases, a highly antimagnetic >15,000 Gauss model, day-date models, world timers, and small seconds hand dial designs.

There were several important new additions to the Aqua Terra line in 2017 and 2021-22, including redesigned cases with more size options and dials sporting new colors and designs. In 2023, the fresh, eye-popping Summer Blue Aqua Terras made their debut. These recent changes comprise the majority of the present-day offerings, and I’ll sort out the more important and popular ones in the in-depth review.

A special note to James Bond movie fans: if you’re concerned about losing your Agent 007 cred by choosing a smooth bezel Aqua Terra over the more famous onscreen Diver 300M and Planet Ocean models, then fear not. Daniel Craig’s Bond also wore an Aqua Terra 150M in Skyfall (2012), Spectre (2015), and No Time to Die (2021).

And that’s not even counting the 2015 Spectre Limited Edition Aqua Terra (ref. 231.10.41.21.03.004) with the colorful blue patterned dial, yellowish-gold seconds hand with the Bond family crest, and the >15’007 Gauss (clever, eh?) antimagnetic protection.

All that evolution and proliferation makes it difficult to pin down exactly how many Aqua Terra references have been manufactured, but I think it’s safe to say “hundreds.” Some might criticize such a large collection as “brand dilution”.

Alternatively, one can make a strong case that by offering many Aqua Terra references, Omega is attempting to constantly improve and update their workhorse model and appeal to a broad range of buyers by making the superb craftsmanship of a METAS-certified Master Chronometer more readily available and affordable than their competitors. The Omega website, as of May 2024, lists 117 references (and incidentally, all those are available online through Exquisite Timepieces).

Omega Aqua Terra: In-Depth Review

Let’s take a closer look at what the Aqua Terra is all about.

Case Sizes & Materials

Aqua Terra models have case diameters to basically fit any size wrist and materials to satisfy even the most discriminating tastes. There are 28mm, 34mm, and 38mm case diameters included under the “Ladies’ Selection” and “Shades” line; the standard 150M and Small Seconds versions are both 38mm and 41mm; the titanium Ultra Light measures 41mm; the Worldtimer models are the largest at 43mm.

Case thicknesses vary widely by diameter, movement, and case material from a slender 9.5mm for the a 28mm steel model with a non-METAS-certified movement, to a moderate 12.2mm and 13.2mm for steel 150M 38mm and 41mm METAS-certified models, respectively, and chunkier 14.1mm (steel) and 14.3mm (gold) for METAS-certified Worldtimers.

My local Omega AD kindly allowed me to try on all-steel 38mm and 41mm 150M models, plus a 43mm Worldtimer. My overall impression was that they all felt and looked slightly smaller than I expected on my 6.5” wrist. The lyred (“twisted”) lugs are slightly curved and conform nicely to the wrist, and the relatively short lug-to-lug distance and solid, female end links allow for a nice bracelet drape over the wrist which.

These attributes combine for a more well-proportioned fit for smaller wrists than the actual case diameter size would indicate. A 43mm case diameter is pushing my limit, but with the Aqua Terra Worldtimer, I felt I could almost pull it off.

Most Aqua Terra cases are steel with smooth bezels, but you can also obtain steel-gold combos, 18K yellow gold, plus Sedna™ and Moonshine™ gold options. Diamond-set bezels are available for some pieces from the “Ladies’ Selection”. Also, the Ultra Light case is titanium.

Aqua Terra cases have domed, highly scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire crystals with a double AR coat and screw-down crowns, which help ensure their 150M/500 feet water resistance rating. All Aqua Terras 34mm and above also have sapphire display case backs.

Dials

The Aqua Terra’s wide variety of dial colors combined with design elements such as stylish indices and unique dial patterns and finishing is one of the collection’s strong suits that heighten its broad appeal. Standard 38mm and 41mm Aqua Terras are offered in traditional colors such as black, grey, various blues, green, and silvery-white.

Most have a dial pattern of horizontal, grooved lines resembling the “teakwood” of boat decks and triangular indices reminiscent of boat sails (34mm Shades pieces have more oval hour indices shaped like boat hulls). There are also some 34mm and 38mm pieces with the rolling “waves” reminiscent of 300M divers and a Tokyo 2022 special edition with a unique abstract-style grid pattern.

With the introduction of the under-40mm Shades models in 2022, Omega expanded to unique, vibrant colorways and sunburst pattern dials that continue to emphasize the sea-land connection, transitioning from watery shades of “Summer”, “Atlantic”, and “Marine” blue to “Bay” and “Lagoon” green, and on to earthy tones like Terra Cotta, Shell Pink, Sandstone, and Saffron.

Most 38mm and above Aqua Terras have a squarish date window at the 6 o’clock position, but some Shades and “Ladies’ Selection” models have a round date window. The distinctive “broad arrow” minutes hand, triangular (there’s that boat sail again) hours hand, and small arrow seconds hand, lumed with Super-LumiNova, are consistent across all Aqua Terra models.

Just like the bezels, some of the “Ladies Selection” dials can be dressed up with diamond indices and nonstandard but striking dial materials like mother-of-pearl. The Worldtimer dial deserves special treatment, and I will cover it under the “popular models” section.

Movements

Except for 28mm Aqua Terras, which use the time-only, non-certified Caliber 4061, all other Aqua Terras are powered by some version of a Co-Axial, METAS-certified movement and are Master Chronometers with an accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day and a date complication.

Most 34mm-38mm Aqua Terras use the Caliber 8800 movement with a 55-hour power reserve, 35 jewels, antimagnetic silicone hairspring, a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour, and a quickset date function.

The Caliber 8900 powers the standard 41mm Aqua Terras and offers a 60-hour power reserve, 39 jewels, antimagnetic silicon hairspring, a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour, and a jumping hours hand that is useful for traveling and changing time zones, similar to a GMT.

However, changing the date takes a little longer since that involves moving the hours forward or backward in one-hour increments. The movements powering some 34mm models, the Small Seconds line, and the Worldtimer use modified versions of the 8800 and 8900 calibers, but as mentioned above, all are METAS-certified.

With the exception of the 28mm mode, which has a solid case back, all other Aqua Terras have a sapphire display window, which is fitting since the intricate and ornate movements are works of art in themselves.

Bracelet and Strap Options

A watch with so many iterations, like the Aqua Terra, naturally has a wide range of available bracelets and straps. Here are a few features, weaknesses, and options worth noting. Like the case, there are all-stainless steel, steel-gold, and gold bracelet choices to consider.

The steel bracelet for standard Aqua Terras is 3-links, brushed satin, with a between-lugs distance of 20mm for the 41mm case and 19mm for the 38mm case. Each size bracelet tapers 2 mm to a butterfly clasp.

The bracelet for the Shades collection has similar dimensions, but the links are more rounded and the center links polished. There are screw-in links for sizing, but neither bracelet has a fine adjustment, making it harder to fit for some.

However, there are 2 half links which will help nearly everyone in that regard. In addition to metal bracelets, other Aqua Terras are available with high-grade leather and rubber straps of various colors.

Most Popular Omega Aqua Terra Models

Boiling down 117 references to 5 “popular models” isn’t easy, but each of these will give the reader a good idea of the broad range and appeal of this amazing hybrid dress/sport watch.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Chronometer 41mm (ref. 220.10.41.21.01.001)

It’s hard to go wrong with a classic black dial watch, whether you’re in the boardroom closing a deal or at “the 19^th hole” recovering from a round of golf. Conservative and boring? Maybe a little. Still, this stainless-steel case and bracelet combo is perhaps the most versatile representative of one of the best all-around watches on the market.

The well-proportioned 41mm case diameter is right-sized for a wide range of wrists, even my 6.5” one. If you’re truly serious about a “one and done” collection (but really, come on, who are you kidding?), your search may be over.

Omega Aqua Terra Shades 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer 38mm (ref. 220.10.38.20.10.002)

Want to go with a more trendy and cooler color than black? A Rolex “Hulk”, “Starbucks”, or “Kermit” beyond your grasp? Then this may be “The One”.

You’ll take away just a bit from the basic Aqua Terra’s sailing roots, but you’ll gain a green sunburst dial look (which is going to pair with more of the colors of your wardrobe than you might think) and polished center links for extra flair. Plus, you’ll be in the center of the bullseye of that 38mm “sweet spot” case diameter that is all the rage these days.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Chronometer Summer Blue (ref. 220.12.41.21.03.008)

Green not edgy enough? Want something that’s going to really pop? Are you a UNC-Chapel Hill fan? Then it may be time for “Summer Blue”. In 2023, Omega introduced 8 “Summer Blue” Seamasters, 2 of which were Aqua Terras, the 41 mm one under discussion, plus the 38mm ref. 220.10.38.20.03.004, which takes its design cues from the Shades models.

Summer blue is like the Mediterranean ocean around Greece, or else, Carolina “sky blue”. I have a dilemma. I’m a Duke grad and “royal blue” guy. But when I saw this watch in-person with its matching rubber strap, I fantasized about it on my wrist. That’s scary.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Chronometer GMT Worldtimer (ref. 220.50.43.22.02.001)

I tried on a steel version of this 43mm watch, and it felt heavy—imagine how much this one would weigh since it’s 18K Sedna™ gold, Omega’s proprietary alloy of rose gold named after the reddest dwarf planet in our Solar System.

Most people in the market for a GMT do not have this one on their radar, but a few might. Gold case, bracelet, and handset, opaline vertical “teakwood” pattern dial, central titanium, laser-ablated planet earth and oceans combined with inner 24-hour ring and outer city ring. Lots to love but lots to pay: $47,700 retail.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer (ref. 220.10.34.20.10.003)

This beauty is another Shades model housed in a 34mm diameter polished stainless-steel case with matching bracelet and accented with an 18K diamond-polished white gold handset, indices, date window frame, and OMEGA logo.

The dial is brass with a lacquered, “shell pink” sunburst finish. It’s another of the “Ladies’ Selection” models per Omega, but with fashions trending toward smaller, vintage case diameters and bolder colored dials, don’t be too surprised if you spot one on a “Gent’s” wrist either.

Should You Buy An Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra?

Well, of course. But to expand a bit, if you’re a person who wants a GADA watch with tons of options to tailor to your tastes, someone who desires a luxury watch but wants to “fly under the radar” and practice “stealth wealth”, or simply one of those rare breeds (think “Bigfoot”) who truly wants to get in and out and be “one and done” with a solo watch collection that does it all extremely well, then the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra has got to be on your shortlist.

Omega Aqua Terra Pricing and Availability

The most popular Aqua Terra models are readily available and priced competitively as far as luxury watches go. For instance, a new 38mm or 41mm all-steel Aqua Terra 150M is $6,300 retail, and similar pre-owned models in good to excellent condition are available on the secondary market in the $4,500-5,575 USD range.

Conclusion

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra is understated and, perhaps because of that, often underseen and underappreciated. But maybe not much longer. One of the watch world’s “best kept secrets” is making bold moves and coming out into the open.