Author: Michael Brown

While watch enthusiasm has traditionally been a male-dominated domain, as Bob Dylan sang, “the times they are a-changin’.” Today, women are not only buying and collecting more timepieces, but they’re also becoming major influencers on social media and high performers in the c-suites of major brands.

At the same time, women are wearing larger case diameters traditionally marketed “for men”, and translating the traditional “small and dressy” design language of previous generations into a modern aesthetic suitable for stylish and active lifestyles.

So, while a unisex “wear what you like” philosophy has grown, women still want niche options they can call their own. This article will describe “15 Best Watches for Women” that capture the current trend of blending traditional forms with fresh ideas and creating modern watches that have the beauty, complications, and technological updates suitable for a wide range of activities and settings.

History of Women’s Watches

Aristocratic women of the early 1800s were the first to wear watches. Abraham-Louis Breguet created a commissioned piece for the Countess of Murat, and Patek Philippe made bespoke watches for the Countess of Koscowicz of Hungary and Queen Victoria in the late 1800s. With improved manufacturing efficiencies and cheaper materials, women’s watches soon became more mainstream, just as pocket watches had for men. Women, who wished to discreetly check the time and didn’t have pockets, often wore them on bracelets, necklaces, brooches, and eventually, their wrists.

In the early 20^th century, many companies began to market pieces exclusively for women. Popular Art Deco watches, known for blocky, square and rectangular shapes, as well as fancy flourishes such as diamonds, gemstones, and precious metals, became popular in the 1920s and remained so for several decades. 

During the same period, early women pioneers, aviators, and athletes, such as Amelia Earhart and long-distance swimmer Mercedes Gleitze, wore rugged and waterproof watches that piqued the interest of women who challenged the notion that bold outdoor adventures were for “men only”.

In the ensuing decades, women’s watch styles went through many cycles of bold designs, bright colors, and eye-catching dials, but mostly still emphasized small sizes and fashion. Modern women “want it all”: versatility and variety as well as high tech functionality. In other words, women expect no restrictions to living well-rounded lifestyles along with full access to the watches that will support them.

Top 15 Best Women’s Watches

This is a “tip of the iceberg” list of 15 Best Women’s Watches that illustrates the range of offerings watch companies are presenting to women consumers:

Rolex Datejust 31 (ref. 278289RBR)

There’s no better way to start than with a white gold, diamond studded model from “The Crown” herself: Rolex. This queenly reference has an 18K white gold alloy, 31mm diameter Oyster case that sits between the 28mm diameter “Lady-Datejust” and the conventional 36mm “unisex” Datejust.

The dial has an Azzuro-blue floral motif with 3 different finishes, sunray, matte, and grained. Diamonds dominate: 24 of various sizes set in the middle of the dial’s flower petals, and 45 more circling the bezel. The matching white gold bracelet is a 3 semi-circular link “Presidential”.

There’s a date window at 3 o’clock to keep things practical and real. The Caliber 2235 movement provides +2/-2 seconds per day accuracy. You probably won’t swim the English Channel like Mercedes Gleitze in her 1920s era Oyster case, but with a screw-down crown and 300m/1000ft of water resistance, you could. Retail: $51,500.

Cartier Tank Must (ref. WSTA0041)

It’s ironic that a watch inspired by a World War I tank and whose prototype was given to General John Pershing has become synonymous with iconic beauty and enduring Art Deco styling. On the scene since 1919, the modern Tank combines a solar powered quartz movement with signature elements such as an ivory dial and elongated, rounded bars called “brancards” (reminiscent of a tank’s tracks), Roman numeral indices, blue steeled sword hands, minuterié track, and a blue sapphire cabochon crown.

This is the “Large” version—33.7 x 25.5mm diameter and 6.6mm thickness—yet suitable for a wide range of wrists. The strap is black grained calfskin leather strap with a steel ardillon buckle. With no seconds hand, no one will know it’s a quartz movement, and I’m not telling. Retail: $3,400.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades (ref. 220.10.34.20.10.002)

The Aqua Terra Shades branch of the Seamaster family was born in 2022 and emphasizes the sea-land connection. This fully polished 34mm stainless steel case reference has a thickness of 11.9mm, lug-to-lug of 40.5mm, and lug width of 15mm.

The dial is made of brass, lacquered with vibrant lavender, and decorated with a sunburst pattern. The handset, round date window frame at 6, indices, and Omega logo are 18K white gold. The bracelet has mixed polished and brushed finishing and is a 3-link rounded style.

The Master Chronometer 8800 movement has a 55 hour power reserve and an accuracy of +5/0 seconds per day. More yacht party than ocean passage, but it still has excellent 150m/500ft water resistance. Retail: $6,600.

Grand Seiko “Snowflake” STGF359

Grand Seiko is a Japanese company renowned for superb craftsmanship, such as Zaratsu polishing that produces a flawless, mirror-like finish, and artistically stunning dials, most of which reflect the deep connection between Japanese culture and nature. The “Lady Snowflake” has a crisp, white dial textured with ripples that bring to mind wind-driven snow and is fully appreciated through the double-domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating. A blue seconds hand provides a bright pop of contrast. The case has gleaming Zaratsu polishing, a 28.9mm diameter, is 8.7mm thick, with a 35.4mm lug-to-lug width, and 14mm lug width. The bracelet has mixed brushed and polished finishing and a three-fold clasp with push button release. Notably, there are no micro adjustment holes. Instead of the Spring Drive in the men’s model, there is a Caliber 4J52 quartz movement with an astounding +10/-10 seconds per year accuracy. Retail: $2,300.

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori (ref. 103799)

If Cleopatra were alive today and choosing a watch to use as a “daily driver”, the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori would probably be on her short list. The snake, an ancient symbol of health and fertility, inspires the design language of this piece with its “drop-shaped”, serpent’s head shaped case and hexagonal links resembling scales.

The case and bracelet are two tone: stainless steel links and 33mm case combined with 18K rose gold links and bezel. The crown is set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite. The dial is black lacquered with gold-colored handset and indices (Roman numerals at 6 and 12).

The watch is powered by a quartz movement and has 30m of water resistance. If you “recoil”, so to speak, from the “wrap-around-the-wrist” Tubogas, then the more conventional Seduttori may be serpent enough for you. Retail: $8,900

Patek Phillipe Nautilus (ref. 7118/1200A-001)

Patek Phillipe Nautilus ladies’ version features the same sporty rounded octagon shaped case and “porthole” shaped crystal as the men’s, but in a smaller and dressier package. This reference has a 35.2 diameter stainless steel case and integrated bracelet with a foldover clasp that has a 2-4mm micro-adjust system.

But what sets this watch apart from the men’s version is a gem-set bezel with 56 diamonds, approximately .67ct each. The dial is blue opaline with rippling embossed horizontal lines. The handset and indices are lumed and white gold. There is a date window at 6 o’clock. A sapphire caseback shows off the Caliber 26-330 SC movement which has a 45hr power reserve and 29 jewels. Retail: $41,480.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm (ref. 77450ST.OO.1361ST.02)

The classic Gerald Genta-designed AP Royal Oak, with its octagonal case, distinctive 8 screw bezel, and integrated stainless steel bracelet, is available in a version that is ideal for smaller wrists. The case is 34mm in diameter and 8.8mm thick.

The dial is silver toned with a “Grande Tapisserie” pattern resembling a waffle and has a date window at 3 o’clock, along with lumed, applied white gold indices and baton hands. The matching integrated bracelet is tapered with links connected by pairs of rectangular studs, and has a foldover clasp. The Calibre 5800 has a 50-hour power reserve, beats at 28,800 vph, and has 28 jewels. Retail $21,600.

Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Watch Small (ref. VCARD21900)

Van Cleef & Arpels was founded in France in 1896 and has been first and foremost a fine jewelry company that also sells ornate, Swiss made watches. The Alhambra motif, which resembles a four-leaf clover, was created in 1968 and, per the company, represents “timeless good luck.”

The case is 18K yellow gold and measures 26mm x 26mm in diameter. Rather than gems, the bezel is adorned with gold “beads”. The modern black onyx dial has no indices, but the handset is yellow gold. It has a black satin strap and quartz movement. If you’re interested in a complete Alhambra jewelry ensemble, the motif is also available on necklaces, pendants, bracelets, ear studs, and rings. Retail: $8,400.

Tudor Royal (ref. M28300-0005)

Believe it or not, there’s more to Tudor than the sporty Black Bay line. The Tudor Royal is a little different twist that adds some upscale, sophisticated design cues for both women and men while retaining enough durability for everyday wear.

This reference has a 28mm stainless steel case with a 9.8mm thickness. The bezel has an alternating notched pattern with areas of polished finishing. The dial is mother of pearl, and there are applied Roman numeral indices at 3,6,9, and 12 and 8 diamonds for the remaining indices.

There are lumed baton hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. There is a sapphire crystal, solid caseback, and a screw down crown that assists with the 100m water resistance. The Caliber T201 has a 38h power reserve. Retail: $3,300.

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Steel White Diamond (ref.682.SE.2010.RW.1204)

Hublot is a bit polarizing these days, but there’s no denying that this piece is an attention grabber with its bold “tonneau-shaped” 32mm stainless steel cased with mixed finishing, and a bezel adorned with 44 diamonds and held together with six, striking H-shaped screws.

Both the crystal and display caseback are sapphire. The dial is matte white with applied lumed indices and sword hands, as well as a date window at 6 o’clock. The watch has 100m of water resistance and is powered by the HUB1120 with a 40 hour power reserve. The white rubber strap has a stainless steel deployant buckle clasp. Retail: $16,400.

Breguet Marine Dame (ref. 9518 9518ST/E2/584/D000)

Breguet, a storied watchmaking brands famous for producing timepieces for aristocrats beginning in 1775, still makes watches “fit for royalty”. The Marine Dame is both sporty and elegant, featuring a Blue Marea (mother of pearl) motif dial with Breguet hands, and Roman numeral indices at 6, 9, and 12 and a trapezoid date complication at 3 o’clock. It features a sapphire crystal and display caseback which shows off the beautiful maria motif rotor of the Caliber 591A movement.

The 33.8mm diameter stainless steel case is 9.9mm thick, with a lug width of 18mm. It is “crowned”, so to speak, with a bezel adorned with 60 .84ct diamonds. It has a screw-down crown, but only has 50m of water resistance despite its “marine” name. It comes with a sporty white rubber strap with Breguet branding. Retail: $23,200

Glashütte Original Lady Serenade (ref. 1-39-22-12-02-04)

The Glashütte, the birthplace of German watchmaking, has made an impressive comeback following the fall of the Iron Curtain. The Lady Serenade has a frisky attitude with its unique “bow” designs that run vertically and horizontally on the mother of pearl dial, giving the piece somewhat of a “cocktail watch” vibe. In addition to Roman numeral indices at 3,9, and 12, there are also 8 diamond indices and a trapezoid date window at 6 o’clock.

The bezel is plain but highly polished. The stainless steel case runs on the large size for women at 36mm with a 10.2mm thickness, and it has a black onyx cabochon crown. It is powered by the Caliber 39-22 automatic movement which has a 40hr power reserve. This reference comes with a green calfskin strap, but a stainless steel bracelet is also available. Retail: $7,000.

Oris Aquis 36.5mm Bluish Pink (ref. 01 733 7770 4158-07 8 18 05P)

A brand associated with more affordable, yet excellent watches, Oris was founded in Hölstein, Switzerland in 1904. This reference has a stainless steel case on a matching bracelet and is also larger at a 36.5 diameter; in line with a sports diver, which it most certainly is with its rotating timing bezel, screw-down crown and impressive 300m of water resistance. But with its beautiful bluish pink mother of pearl dial, it wouldn’t be out of place at a yacht club party or more formal event either. It has lumed, applied indices and sword hands, and a date window at 6. The Oris Caliber 733 has a 38hr power reserve, beats at a peppy 28,900 vph, and has a beautiful red rotor prominently displayed through its sapphire caseback. Retail $2,400

Longines Dolcevita (ref. L5.255.4.71.6)

Longines, founded in 1832, is a storied brand with a rich heritage. The Dolcevita, with its rectangular shaped case, evokes that legacy with a 1920 Art Deco model that lives up to its name: :”Sweet Life”. The stainless steel case is 20.8mm x 32mm in diameter, 6.9mm thick, and 32mm lug-to-lug, and has a matching 5-link bracelet with both brushed and polished finishing.

The silver “flinque” dial has contrasting steel blue sword hands, blue Roman numeral indices, a black inner minutes track, and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. It has a sapphire crystal and a solid caseback, with a modest 30m of water resistance. The watch uses a reliable and accurate L178 quartz movement. Retail: $1,425

Michele Deco Madison Diamond Dial (ref. MWW06T000147)

This is another Art Deco model, but with a squarish instead of rectangular shape. Notably, the dial indicates that the watch’s quartz movement is “Swiss” but lacks the more comprehensive “Swiss Made” label. It has a two-toned, stainless steel-18K gold plated case that is 33mm in diameter with an 18mm lug width and an ornate, red-tipped crown.

The silver dial has a lumed gold-toned handset, applied Roman numeral indices, a round date window at 6, and best of all, 47 diamonds centrally which frame a sunburst design. The stainless steel bracelet has a butterfly deployant clasp and is interchangeable with a Michele strap. Retail: $1,995.

Conclusion

Obviously, there are still excellent choices for someone who desires a traditionally “feminine” watch. Still, it’s important to recognize that the full array of watch styles and sizes can appeal to just about everyone. For instance, I learned to appreciate “women’s watches” even more by researching and writing this article! More options for all is good for everybody. It’s a little like wine: “You like what you like,” and “There are no rules.” Don’t let anybody tell you otherwise.

Watch enthusiasts often spend thousands of dollars to obtain the “grail” they’ve longed for (guilty as charged!). Still, one of the pleasures of the hobby is that you don’t have to break the bank to be a happy collector who owns a quality timepiece you can proudly wear.

I occasionally consult with new collectors and those seeking to buy a watch as a gift who want both quality and affordability in their purchases. As it turns out, they often cite $500 as their  “sweet spot” price point, and it’s always rewarding to help them reach their goals.

This article serves as a guide for those seeking a watch under $500 and an illustration of the wide variety of timepieces available in that range that can potentially meet the needs, interests, and tastes of nearly everyone.

How to Choose a Watch Under $500

There are several factors to consider to choose a watch for under $500. For many, the brand is a primary concern. Does one choose a popular brand such as Seiko, or is one comfortable considering a lesser-known one combining many desirable features into a value-added package? There’s no right or wrong answer, just an honest assessment of one’s preferences and comfort level with wearing  “the watch less worn”.

Another important question is the purpose: “What does the wearer want from their watch?” Does the owner need a sturdy sports or field watch that will hold up and perform well in rugged conditions? 

Or is a dressier watch required for an office setting or more formal occasions? A common goal is to own a “go anywhere, do anything” (GADA) piece that performs well and looks sharp for a broad range of situations.

Closely related to purpose are materials and build quality. For active persons, steel or resin cases with high impact and water resistance are desirable. For more common wear situations, one might want a watch with finer quality finishing, such as polished steel or even gold, that will help it stand out in a crowded room.

Another characteristic to consider is size, which includes case diameter, thickness, and lug-to-lug distance, all of which affect how the watch looks and feels on the wrist. In the past, sports and men’s watches tended to be larger, while dress and women’s watches were smaller. 

Current trends include smaller sizes for men (especially the 38-41mm case diameter range that tends to fit a wide variety of wrist sizes) and larger watches for women. In fact, many argue that when it comes to watch size, “unisex” is a preferable term over strict gender categories.

Finally, there’s the mechanism that powers the watch. Manual wind and self-winding (automatic) mechanical watches are “living, beating” machines that possess an intricate, dynamic beauty that is best appreciated when viewed through a caseback display window. 

Battery-powered, primarily quartz, watches have the advantage of being more accurate than mechanical ones and offer the convenience of “setting it and forgetting it”. Some mechanisms combine the best of both modalities.

Top 15 Best Watches Under $500

The list of the top 15 best watches under $500 covers a wide range of purposes, materials, sizes, and mechanisms.

1. Seiko Sports SPRD51

The Japanese brand Seiko is one of the most recognizable in the world, and their Seiko 5 Sports line replaces the venerable SKX diver and offers a large number of offerings that fit almost everyone and every occasion. 

The Seiko Sports SPRD51 is a diver-style sports watch with a 42.5mm diameter stainless steel case, 13.5mm thickness, 46mm lug-to-lug distance, and a matching 3-link bracelet. The dial is sunburst blue with a matching blue, unidirectionally rotating dive bezel, along with lumed indices and handset. The crystal is Seiko’s Hardlex, which is impact-resistant but more prone to scratches than sapphire. 

It has 100m/300ft of water resistance, enough to suit most water sports needs, and a push-pull, unsigned crown at the 4 o’clock position. The Seiko 4R36 automatic movement provides a 40-hour power reserve and day/date complication at the 3:00 o’clock position, which is seen through a display caseback. Retail: $325.

2. Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic NJ0151-53M

Citizen is another famous brand with a wide range of watches under $500. Tsuyosa is the Japanese word for “strength”, and this model is strong in both value and a sporty style that leans into the retro, integrated designs of the 1970s. 

Its stainless steel case has a 40mm diameter, is a svelte 11.7mm thick, and has a modest lug-to-lug distance of 45mm, providing a good fit for most wrist sizes. The matching stainless steel bracelet has rounded links that taper from 22mm at the lugs to 18mm at the stamped, double push-button clasp. 

The dial is “turquoise”, but could also be described as the popular “ice blue”, and has a sunburst finish, lumed baton indices, and a date window at 3 o’clock. With only 50 meters of water resistance, it’s better suited for regular everyday wear. The Miyota Caliber 8210 movement has a 40 hour power reserve. Retail: $450.

3. Orient Kamasu RA-AA0004E19A

Orient is a Japanese brand founded in 1952 and known for feature-packed watches at a low price point. The “Kamasu” dive watch is one of their cornerstone models with a 42mm case diameter, 13mm width, 45mm lug-to-lug distance, and a strap-friendly 22m lug width.

It’s sealed with a sapphire crystal, solid caseback, and a screw-down crown that provide 200m/660ft of water resistance. It’s crowned with a 120-click, unidirectional bezel with an aluminum insert. The case and matching stainless steel bracelet have a mix of polished and brushed finishing. There is a wide range of dial/bezel color options, the brightly lumed, applied indices and handset provide good legibility, contrast, and depth. 

There’s a handy day/date window at 3 o’clock. The F6992 caliber movement is hackable, has a 40-hr power reserve, and beats at 21,600 vph. I own the red dial/black bezel “Coke” Kamasu, and it’s my go-to watch for serious water activities. Retail: $335.

4. Seiko Presage SPRD37

This Seiko model is nicknamed the “Mockingbird” after a crafted drink concocted by award-winning bartender Ishigaki Shinobu. It’s a simple 3-handed, date-at-3 dress watch with a stainless steel case diameter of 40.4mm, 11.8mm thickness, 45mm lug-to-lug distance, and 20mm lug width. 

The dial is a rich and beautiful British racing green with sunburst finishing and is capped with a vintage-style domed Hardlex crystal and display caseback. The crown is cupcake style, fluted, and signed. It has no-lume Dauphine hands and a gold-colored, diamond-shaped counterweight on the seconds hand. 

The strap is brown leather and has a tri-fold push-button release clasp. The 4R35B movement beats at 21,600 vph and has a 41-hr power reserve with 23 jewels. The 50m of water resistance is typical of a dress watch and not suitable for rugged activities, but it should handle minor splashes with ease. Retail: $425.

5. Casio G-Shock GST-B400BB-1A Steel

Casio G-Shock watches are renowned for their “take anything” durability and are the watch of choice for many outdoor workers, sports enthusiasts, and military personnel, including special forces. So iconic, they’re almost a collector’s rite of passage. 

This 2021 release has a more upscale feel than most G-Shocks, combining both analog and digital features in a carbon core, black ion-plated, stainless steel case with a 49.6mm diameter, a surprisingly thin 12.9mm thickness, and 44.6mm lug-to-lug width. 

The large size, along with the analog hands, digital registers (“ana-digi” hybrid), large pushers, and multi-tiered case, produce a prominent wrist presence and impressive depth. It has a tough mineral crystal and water resistance up to 200m. Bluetooth smartphone connectivity adds extra convenience for setting the watch and managing its functions, and the Tough Solar movement is long-lasting and so accurate you can set all your other watches by it. Retail: $400.

6. Seiko Sports GMT SSK003

Seiko’s 2022 release of a Sport GMT line capable of tracking multiple time zones set a new standard for a sub-$500 mechanical GMT watch. Similar in size and shape to the beloved SKX, it has an unsigned crown at the 4 o’clock position, 42.5mm stainless steel case diameter, 13.6mm thickness, and 46mm lug-to-lug distance. 

The SSK003 has a blue dial and a  black/blue 24-hr bidirectional, friction-fit bezel. Its “Jubilee-like” stainless steel bracelet and date window with cyclops at 3 o’clock nod to the “Batgirl” Rolex GMT Master II. There is a Hardlex crystal and caseback window displaying the 4R34 movement with a 40-hr power reserve, 21,600 vph, and 24 jewels. 

The indices, syringe hour and broad arrow minutes hand, and tip of the red, arrow-shaped GMT hands are filled with Lumibrite for easy legibility and contrast. I wore my own Seiko GMT SSK003 for inspiration as I wrote this! Retail: $475  

7. Orient Bambino Version 7 ref. RA-AC0M03S10B

In addition to their renowned divers, Orient also produces the classic “Bambino” (the name bestowed by its cult-like following, not the company) date-at-3 dress watch, which represents an excellent value proposition and a wide open gateway into watch collecting. It has a 38.4mm stainless steel case diameter, is 12.5mm thick, and has a modest 44mm lug-to-lug width, which fits most wrist sizes well. 

The domed mineral crystal exudes a warm, vintage vibe, and the exhibition caseback displays the Caliber F6724 movement, which is hackable and has a 40-hour power reserve. Like many dress watches, the hands are simple, elegant, and unlumed, and the silvery white dial will go well with dressier ensembles, whether work casual or formal. 

The watch is further adorned with a black leather strap and a signed onion-style, push-pull crown and has the usual modest 30m of water resistance common in dress watches. Retail: $270

8. Seiko Prospex King Turtle SRPE03

The story of Seiko’s cushion-style case professional dive watch dates back to the 1970s, and this 2022 reissue retains that “vintage hip” vibe while providing modern updates. As stated on the dial, this is an ISO-certified “Diver’s” watch providing 200m/660ft of water resistance.

Updates include a ceramic bezel insert and deeper angular grooving in the unidirectional bezel edge for better gripping underwater with gloves. The case size is 45mm in diameter, 13.3mm thick, with a 47.7mm lug-to-lug distance, and is sealed with a sapphire crystal,  solid caseback, and screw-down, unsigned crown at the 4 o’clock position. 

The dial has a waffle pattern, a day/date window at 3 o’clock, and a black dial and black bezel (other colorways are available). The traditional Seiko diver handset is filled with Lumibrite. The movement is the reliable workhorse Seiko Caliber 4R36 with a 41 hr. power reserve and beat rate of 21,600 vph. Retail: $500.

9. Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000D-1 Metal

The G-Shock model’s squarish case/dial design hearkens back to the “OG” all-digital DW-5000C from 1983. But instead of all resin construction, this reference has a mixed brush/polished finished stainless steel case and bracelet for a more upscale feel and look. 

Still, there is shock-resistant resin inserted between the case and bezel, which, along with the impact-resistant mineral glass crystal, enable the watch to hold up the heavy abuse of rough conditions. The case has a screw-in caseback and is 49.3mm x 43.2mm in diameter with 200m/660ft of water resistance. 

The watch has the familiar G-Shock features and functions (LED display backlighting, world time, timer, calendar, stopwatch, and alarm) but also contemporary features such as Bluetooth connectivity, long-lasting, Tough Solar movement with an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, and Multiband 6 radio which can synch with the atomic clock in six different time zones. Retail: $550.

10. Laco Pilot Basic Augsburg 42 ref. 861688.2

Flieger (“aviator”) style watches are highly regarded and sought after, and the “Made in Germany” Laco Pilot Basic Augsburg 42 is an excellent entry-level piece similar to those worn by Luftwaffe pilots in World War II. 

Pilot watches must enable “telling time at a glance”, and ease of use, and this reference meets this requirement with its highly contrasting, wide-faced, black matte dial and white SuperLuminova Arabic numeral hour indices, triangle, and two dots at 12 for orientation, oversized onion crown, and riveted leather strap. 

The sand-blasted stainless steel case has a sapphire crystal and is 42mm in diameter, 11.7mm in thickness, and has a 50mm lug-to-lug distance. It only has a water resistance of 50m, but if you need more than that, there may be something seriously wrong with your plane! The Miyota 821A movement is easy to regulate and service and helps keep costs down. Retail $410.

11. Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Salmon Dial on Strap ref. 87043Q17

Nivada Grenchen is a lesser-known but top-shelf Swiss brand dating back to 1926 and perhaps most known for being among the first to produce automatic watches and their participation in various 20^th century Antarctic expeditions. 

This chronograph uses 1970s art deco “Paul Newman” font and design cues. It also stands out with its salmon dial, tan-colored 24 hr., 60 min., and running seconds subdials, and white gradient minute track in the periphery. The stainless steel case has a 38mm diameter, 12.95 thickness, a lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm, is capped with a slightly domed sapphire crystal, and sealed with a solid caseback. 

A unique feature is the “hybrid” Seiko TMI VK53A meca-quartz movement which combines quartz accuracy with the mechanical function for the timing seconds hand. This reference is a  “Limited Edition”, per the company, but they don’t say how many. Retail: $479.

12. Unimatic UC2 Classic

Unimatic was founded in Italy in 2015 by Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato. The U2 Classic, cleverly dubbed “The Bono” by fans, is a field watch and capable diver with a screw-down crown and robust 300m/1000ft water resistance. 

It has a minimalist and modern aesthetic that includes a black dial with sparse lettering and lots of negative space, along with round, pale green SuperLuminova hour indices, baton hands, triangle at 12, and a basic hashed minute track chapter ring.

The all-brushed, stainless steel case is 38.5mm in diameter, 12.mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of 47.5mm, and houses a hackable Seiko NH35A movement with a 41 hr. power reserve, 21,600 vph,  and 24 jewels. It comes on a black fabric strap and has a solid caseback with an engraved “Rosa dei Venti” diagram depicting wind patterns used in navigation. Retail: $425.

13. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical with Tritium (GPM) 34mm

Founded in 1939, Marathon is a Canadian brand that has the distinction of being the last remaining official supplier of watches for the Canadian and U.S. armed forces. U.S.-issued watches carry an engraved, solid caseback indicating its conformity with the United States Military Standard MIL-PRF-46374G. 

This model is monochrome, with a black fabric strap, black dial, and 34mm stainless steel case with a black fiber shell (sage green and desert tan are also available). The small case diameter is best for smaller wrists or those seeking a “MIL-vintage” vibe. The movement is a hackable Seiko NH35 with a 41-hour power reserve. 

A unique feature of this and other Marathon models is the use of radioactive Tritium, safely stored in tubes, for the lumed indices and hands. Tritium will not be as bright as more modern luminescent materials, but it will glow without light stimulation and in all situations. Retail: $420.

14. Tissot PRX Quartz (ref. T137.410.11.091.01)

Since Tissot’s launch of the PRX (“Precise and Robust”) in 2021, it has quickly become the brand’s hottest selling line. The PRX is a refresh of the 1978 Tissot Seastar designed by legendary watchmaker Gerald Genta. 

Tissot’s aim was to use his integrated case/bracelet design to evoke the spirit of the hip 1970s, and some would say nod and wink toward the Vacheron 222. This reference has a light green dial, a stainless steel case diameter of 40mm, and a quartz movement, but Tissot has enlarged the PRX family to include a wide variety of dial colors, precious metals, and a 35mm option. 

A standout feature of the PRX is its high-quality stainless steel bracelet which has vertical brushing with pops of polish, a butterfly release, double-push clasp, and wears very comfortably on the wrist with little to no pinching. Retail: $395.

15. Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase

The Swatch Group’s MoonSwatch collection is a lineup of colorful quartz watches launched in 2022 and fashioned after the iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional, the “First Watch Worn on the Moon”. 

Mission to Earthphase, the 29^th piece in the series, has once again sent collectors into high orbit. It has a light gray “Bioceramic” case diameter of 42mm, 13.75mm thickness, and lug-to-lug distance of 47.3mm, along with a Velcro fabric strap that comes with all MoonSwatches. The dial is textured gray, but instead of subdials at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, the Earthphase has two apertures. 

At 10, a rotating disc shows Earthphase, the view of the earth from the lunar surface, while at 2 another shows the moonphase, the view of the moon from earth, both of which follow a 29.5-day cycle, but in reverse order. The Earth’s oceans glow under UV light, and the battery cover on the caseback has an image of Neil Armstrong’s footprint. Retail: $325.

Conclusion

While it is possible (make that “probable”) that a serious collector will spend thousands of dollars on a timepiece, part of the joy of the avocation is that there is just as much satisfaction in picking up a value-packed watch at a fraction of the cost, such as the sub-$500 price point. The old saying, “You get what you pay for”, is a good rule of thumb, but sometimes “less is more” holds true as well, resulting in a satisfying tick on the wrist and a smile on one’s face. 

“It’s complicated.” The phrase suggests something that is hard to understand or explain. A “complicated” watch, however, is usually viewed as desirable and a source of purpose and pleasure by enthusiasts.

The primary function of a watch is to tell the current time in hours, minutes, and, usually, seconds. A “complication” is a watch function that provides additional information beyond those three measurements.

Complications are usually visual, conveying additional details through extra dial print, subdials, apertures, bezels that calculate elapsed time and speed of moving objects, or additional hands that indicate how much power is left in the watch’s mechanism, or even the current time on the other side of the world.

But complications can be pleasing to the ears as well. Acoustic complications include alarms that countdown or sound at a set time, “repeaters” that ping or chime every minute, quarter hour, and hour, enabling the wearer to tell the time by sound alone, and even “music boxes” that play tunes.

In this article, I describe a few of the most popular complications available today. After reading this, you may discover that a “complicated watch” can be a good thing and a nice pickup for your collection.

Date Complications

A simple date complication indicating the numerical calendar day is the most desired and useful for an everyday wear watch.

A self-changing date complication, first introduced in the 1945 Rolex Datejust, is usually accomplished with a date wheel inside the watch case that rotates to the next day automatically as the time passes 00:00 hours (midnight). 

There is an aperture or date window, most often located at the 3 o’clock position, but sometimes at 4:30 or 6:00 as well. The day of the week is sometimes added, either as an abbreviation alongside the date at 3:00 or at 12:00 using the full name.

In addition to apertures, some watches use an extra hand called a “pointer” to show the date. These usually have the Arabic numerals 1-31 located along the outer edge of the dial in an area called the “chapter ring” or in a smaller dial within the main dial (“subdial”).

Pointers are often used in perpetual calendar watches with very complex—and expensive—mechanisms that can advance the day, date, month, and year correctly, including leap years, until the year 2100 without resetting as long as the watch is kept running. An annual calendar watch tracks the same information but must be reset every year.

Chronograph Complications

Another popular complication is the chronograph. “Chronograph” is derived from the Greek language and means “time recording”. Chronographs track both the current time and the elapsed time of an event. Most modern chronographs have a start/stop pusher at 2 o’clock position and a reset pusher at 4 o’clock. 

A long timing seconds hand is usually used that extends to seconds indices at the dial’s edge. In addition, subdials can track current running seconds as well as elapsed timing hours, minutes, and even fractions of seconds.

There are several variations of chronographs that go beyond the basic “stopwatch” format. 

A tachymeter is a numerical scale on the bezel that allows the calculation of the speed of a moving object over a set distance in either mph or kph. A telemeter scale on the bezel or dial can estimate the distance from an event that is seen and heard (e.g. a lightning strike and ensuing thunder), while a pulsometer scale can compute heart rate in beats per minute. Sometimes, all three are combined in one chronograph.

In addition, there are chronographs with more complicated mechanisms that fine-tune the measurement of elapsed time. A “rattrapante” (French for “catch up”) is a “splits seconds” chronograph that uses two timing seconds hands to measure total elapsed time as well as “split” or lap times. A “flyback” chronograph allows the user to start and stop the timing seconds hand and reset to zero with a single press of a pusher.

GMT/World Time Complications

GMT and World Time complications enable the wearer to track the time in different timezones around the world. “GMT” stands for Greenwich Mean Time, the system that designates 24 global timezones with a reference “Zero Hour” linked with the longitudinal Prime Meridian, which runs through the Royal Observatory near London.

GMT watches are typically four-hand watches with a GMT hand that tracks a 24-hour scale on the bezel, which may be rotating or stationary. There are two basic types: traveler (aka “flyer”) and desk (aka “caller”). 

A traveler GMT has a jumping local hours hand, which can be set independently when arriving in a different timezone without interrupting the watch’s timekeeping. The GMT hand stays on the time back home.

In contrast, a desk GMT has a jumping GMT hand that can be set independently to a different timezone while the local time keeps running, making it ideal for someone staying put but needing to know the time at a different location. A rotating bezel can track a third timezone with both traveler and desk types.

A world time complication can show not just 2-3 timezones but any time across the world. A common characteristic of all world timers is a list of reference cities representing the 24 global timezones and a 24-hour scale. The city list is usually located on an outer chapter ring, which may be stationary or rotating or on a rotating bezel. 

The 24-hour scale is usually located on an inner chapter ring, which can be set and rotated through every city over the course of the day. Other world timers use pushers that move some combination of the reference cities, 24-hour scale, or local hours hand.

It all sounds a little confusing and, well, “complicated”, but in real life, everything works out fine once you figure out your model’s mechanism.

Moonphase Complications

Some form of “moonphase” clock has been in use since ancient times when tracking the lunar cycle yielded important information regarding planting, harvesting, hunting, and fishing.

These days, a moonphase watch complication uses a rotating disc depicting the sunlit moon’s phases over a 29.5-day period, which is seen through a decorative, cutout aperture on the front of the dial, sometimes round, but usually arc-like, similar to a half-moon. 

A moonphase complication is not particularly accurate—or useful—but it is stylish and adds nice touches of color and additional interest and motion to the watch face that make them popular among collectors.

Though often associated with expensive, high horology, moonphase complications are also available in more affordable entry-level mechanical watches and every price point in between.

Tourbillons

When it comes to timekeeping, gravity is not a friend. The small components of a mechanical watch are affected by gravitational forces, resulting in “positional errors”, which adversely affect accuracy.

A tourbillon (French for “whirlwind” which describes the mechanism’s swirling motion) is a complication that mitigates these errors, making it, in effect, an “anti-gravity” machine. 

Basically, the balance wheel, balance spring, and escapement, the intricate parts most susceptible to positional errors, are located inside a rotating cage that helps average out gravitational forces in a mostly stationary timepiece such as a pocket watch.

The tourbillon was created by renowned French watchmaker Abraham-Lewis Breguet in 1795 and patented in 1801. Since that time, the tourbillon has evolved from the single-axis model of Breguet to more complex ones that use multi-axes, combinations of tourbillons, “flying” tourbillons mounted so they appear freestanding, and even ultra-sophisticated “gyro” ones that drive perpetual calendar watches.

There is controversy as to whether or not tourbillons improve accuracy significantly in modern watches that are non-stationary and rotating with the motion of the wearer’s wrist. 

But no one denies the intricate beauty of these complications seen through open, skeletonized dials and display casebacks. They can mesmerize and hypnotize for hours and have your boss frowning in chagrin at the inverse relationship between your watch addiction and office productivity.

Since tourbillons are complex and difficult to manufacture, they tend to be very expensive and associated with high-end horology. However, improvements in manufacturing and technology enable some companies to offer tourbillon watches for lower prices.

Power Reserve Indicators

A power reserve indicator is a watch complication that shows how much potential energy remains in a mechanical watch’s mainspring. Think of it as your watch’s “fuel gauge”. 

If you don’t wear a mechanical or automatic watch every day, it’s useful to know how much is “left in the tank” before you strap it on again, especially since a more fully wound mainspring is associated with greater accuracy.

Power reserve indicators are most often seen on dials and may take the form of a hand moving along an arc-shaped scale or within a subdial. Other dial indicators include bar or linear indicators that use a +/- scale or fill up as reserves decrease and color-coded gauges that vary as power levels change. Some people prefer a less cluttered dial, so there are watches with power reserve indicators on the movement, which can be seen through a display caseback.

Like tourbillons, some dismiss power reserve indicators in modern watches with large power reserves and self-winding, automatic movements, believing they are a needless feature from the past. However, one person’s superfluous fluff is another person’s desirable design element. Like beauty, a watch complication is “in the eye of the beholder”.

Mechanical Alarms

We set most alarms these days with our cell phones and digital watches and clocks, so mechanical alarm complications are much less common and cherished than in years past. But as one who owns mechanical watches in part to push back against the creeping tide of digitization and form connections with both my watches and the past, I say, “So what?”

A mechanical alarm complication allows the user to set an alarm within a 12-hour period. The first mechanical alarm watch was created by Eterna around 1914.

 But arguably the most iconic was the 1950s era Vulcain Cricket with a separate barrel system for the alarm that emitted a cool chirping sound, hence the name, and was famously associated with U.S. presidents such as Dwight Eisenhower and Richard Nixon, among others.

There are several other modern watch companies that still offer fine references with mechanical alarm complications, including Tudor, Patek Philippe, Breguet, Jaeger-Lecoultre, and Oris, to name a few. Here’s a link to the Exquisite Timepieces website, which features some of these.

I personally own two watches with mechanical alarms, and not only do I find them handy to wake me up from a catnap, but they also encourage me to slow down and engage with my watch, thereby nurturing the wearer-watch “connection”.

The reward consists of soft, soothing, Zen-like “dings”. Sometimes, I set an alarm for no other reason than to breathe deep and calm my soul.

Minute Repeaters

From mechanical alarms, we transition to the most complex acoustic complication—the minute repeater.

A minute repeater allows the user to tell time through a series of different auditory tones produced by hammers striking gongs. They were originally designed for telling time in the dark and for the visually impaired. 

Not surprisingly, Abraham-Louis Breguet, father of the tourbillon, also invented the first ones in the mid-18^th century. Unlike church bell chimes or grandfather clocks, which strike every quarter hour and hour, minute repeaters chime to tell time to the exact minute.

This is accomplished using an independent chiming mechanism that can be switched on or off—so yes, you can “mute” it. The actual tones and sequencing can differ from brand to brand. 

To illustrate, Patek Philippe uses a lower tone for hours, a two-toned sequence for quarter hours, and a higher-pitched single tone for minutes. For example, to designate 7:47, the minute repeater would strike seven low tones, 3 two-toned sequences, and 2 high-pitched single tones.

There are repeater variations with other sequences and pitches for hours, quarters, half-quarters, 10 minutes, 5 minutes, and single minutes, as well as “dumb” repeaters that don’t chime audibly but instead vibrate.

Along with tourbillons, minute repeaters are premium mechanisms that, while certainly not absolutely necessary for modern times, are nonetheless venerable and sought-after complications. 

As such, they are also very expensive. However, some companies offer less complex hours-only repeaters that still give you that calming chime every 60 minutes at a more affordable price point.

Conclusion

While time-only watches can certainly be aesthetically clean and appealing, we only experience the full range of watchmaking artisanship and functionality when we consider the many complications available in modern timepieces. If “variety is the spice of life,” then watch complications are the cinnamon, cumin, and paprika of horology.

Still, be careful and go easy—a little bit of complication can go a long way.