Author: Michael Brown

Watch enthusiasts often spend thousands of dollars to obtain the “grail” they’ve longed for (guilty as charged!). Still, one of the pleasures of the hobby is that you don’t have to break the bank to be a happy collector who owns a quality timepiece you can proudly wear.

I occasionally consult with new collectors and those seeking to buy a watch as a gift who want both quality and affordability in their purchases. As it turns out, they often cite $500 as their  “sweet spot” price point, and it’s always rewarding to help them reach their goals.

This article serves as a guide for those seeking a watch under $500 and an illustration of the wide variety of timepieces available in that range that can potentially meet the needs, interests, and tastes of nearly everyone.

How to Choose a Watch Under $500

There are several factors to consider to choose a watch for under $500. For many, the brand is a primary concern. Does one choose a popular brand such as Seiko, or is one comfortable considering a lesser-known one combining many desirable features into a value-added package? There’s no right or wrong answer, just an honest assessment of one’s preferences and comfort level with wearing  “the watch less worn”.

Another important question is the purpose: “What does the wearer want from their watch?” Does the owner need a sturdy sports or field watch that will hold up and perform well in rugged conditions? 

Or is a dressier watch required for an office setting or more formal occasions? A common goal is to own a “go anywhere, do anything” (GADA) piece that performs well and looks sharp for a broad range of situations.

Closely related to purpose are materials and build quality. For active persons, steel or resin cases with high impact and water resistance are desirable. For more common wear situations, one might want a watch with finer quality finishing, such as polished steel or even gold, that will help it stand out in a crowded room.

Another characteristic to consider is size, which includes case diameter, thickness, and lug-to-lug distance, all of which affect how the watch looks and feels on the wrist. In the past, sports and men’s watches tended to be larger, while dress and women’s watches were smaller. 

Current trends include smaller sizes for men (especially the 38-41mm case diameter range that tends to fit a wide variety of wrist sizes) and larger watches for women. In fact, many argue that when it comes to watch size, “unisex” is a preferable term over strict gender categories.

Finally, there’s the mechanism that powers the watch. Manual wind and self-winding (automatic) mechanical watches are “living, beating” machines that possess an intricate, dynamic beauty that is best appreciated when viewed through a caseback display window. 

Battery-powered, primarily quartz, watches have the advantage of being more accurate than mechanical ones and offer the convenience of “setting it and forgetting it”. Some mechanisms combine the best of both modalities.

Top 15 Best Watches Under $500

The list of the top 15 best watches under $500 covers a wide range of purposes, materials, sizes, and mechanisms.

1. Seiko Sports SPRD51

The Japanese brand Seiko is one of the most recognizable in the world, and their Seiko 5 Sports line replaces the venerable SKX diver and offers a large number of offerings that fit almost everyone and every occasion. 

The Seiko Sports SPRD51 is a diver-style sports watch with a 42.5mm diameter stainless steel case, 13.5mm thickness, 46mm lug-to-lug distance, and a matching 3-link bracelet. The dial is sunburst blue with a matching blue, unidirectionally rotating dive bezel, along with lumed indices and handset. The crystal is Seiko’s Hardlex, which is impact-resistant but more prone to scratches than sapphire. 

It has 100m/300ft of water resistance, enough to suit most water sports needs, and a push-pull, unsigned crown at the 4 o’clock position. The Seiko 4R36 automatic movement provides a 40-hour power reserve and day/date complication at the 3:00 o’clock position, which is seen through a display caseback. Retail: $325.

2. Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic NJ0151-53M

Citizen is another famous brand with a wide range of watches under $500. Tsuyosa is the Japanese word for “strength”, and this model is strong in both value and a sporty style that leans into the retro, integrated designs of the 1970s. 

Its stainless steel case has a 40mm diameter, is a svelte 11.7mm thick, and has a modest lug-to-lug distance of 45mm, providing a good fit for most wrist sizes. The matching stainless steel bracelet has rounded links that taper from 22mm at the lugs to 18mm at the stamped, double push-button clasp. 

The dial is “turquoise”, but could also be described as the popular “ice blue”, and has a sunburst finish, lumed baton indices, and a date window at 3 o’clock. With only 50 meters of water resistance, it’s better suited for regular everyday wear. The Miyota Caliber 8210 movement has a 40 hour power reserve. Retail: $450.

3. Orient Kamasu RA-AA0004E19A

Orient is a Japanese brand founded in 1952 and known for feature-packed watches at a low price point. The “Kamasu” dive watch is one of their cornerstone models with a 42mm case diameter, 13mm width, 45mm lug-to-lug distance, and a strap-friendly 22m lug width.

It’s sealed with a sapphire crystal, solid caseback, and a screw-down crown that provide 200m/660ft of water resistance. It’s crowned with a 120-click, unidirectional bezel with an aluminum insert. The case and matching stainless steel bracelet have a mix of polished and brushed finishing. There is a wide range of dial/bezel color options, the brightly lumed, applied indices and handset provide good legibility, contrast, and depth. 

There’s a handy day/date window at 3 o’clock. The F6992 caliber movement is hackable, has a 40-hr power reserve, and beats at 21,600 vph. I own the red dial/black bezel “Coke” Kamasu, and it’s my go-to watch for serious water activities. Retail: $335.

4. Seiko Presage SPRD37

This Seiko model is nicknamed the “Mockingbird” after a crafted drink concocted by award-winning bartender Ishigaki Shinobu. It’s a simple 3-handed, date-at-3 dress watch with a stainless steel case diameter of 40.4mm, 11.8mm thickness, 45mm lug-to-lug distance, and 20mm lug width. 

The dial is a rich and beautiful British racing green with sunburst finishing and is capped with a vintage-style domed Hardlex crystal and display caseback. The crown is cupcake style, fluted, and signed. It has no-lume Dauphine hands and a gold-colored, diamond-shaped counterweight on the seconds hand. 

The strap is brown leather and has a tri-fold push-button release clasp. The 4R35B movement beats at 21,600 vph and has a 41-hr power reserve with 23 jewels. The 50m of water resistance is typical of a dress watch and not suitable for rugged activities, but it should handle minor splashes with ease. Retail: $425.

5. Casio G-Shock GST-B400BB-1A Steel

Casio G-Shock watches are renowned for their “take anything” durability and are the watch of choice for many outdoor workers, sports enthusiasts, and military personnel, including special forces. So iconic, they’re almost a collector’s rite of passage. 

This 2021 release has a more upscale feel than most G-Shocks, combining both analog and digital features in a carbon core, black ion-plated, stainless steel case with a 49.6mm diameter, a surprisingly thin 12.9mm thickness, and 44.6mm lug-to-lug width. 

The large size, along with the analog hands, digital registers (“ana-digi” hybrid), large pushers, and multi-tiered case, produce a prominent wrist presence and impressive depth. It has a tough mineral crystal and water resistance up to 200m. Bluetooth smartphone connectivity adds extra convenience for setting the watch and managing its functions, and the Tough Solar movement is long-lasting and so accurate you can set all your other watches by it. Retail: $400.

6. Seiko Sports GMT SSK003

Seiko’s 2022 release of a Sport GMT line capable of tracking multiple time zones set a new standard for a sub-$500 mechanical GMT watch. Similar in size and shape to the beloved SKX, it has an unsigned crown at the 4 o’clock position, 42.5mm stainless steel case diameter, 13.6mm thickness, and 46mm lug-to-lug distance. 

The SSK003 has a blue dial and a  black/blue 24-hr bidirectional, friction-fit bezel. Its “Jubilee-like” stainless steel bracelet and date window with cyclops at 3 o’clock nod to the “Batgirl” Rolex GMT Master II. There is a Hardlex crystal and caseback window displaying the 4R34 movement with a 40-hr power reserve, 21,600 vph, and 24 jewels. 

The indices, syringe hour and broad arrow minutes hand, and tip of the red, arrow-shaped GMT hands are filled with Lumibrite for easy legibility and contrast. I wore my own Seiko GMT SSK003 for inspiration as I wrote this! Retail: $475  

7. Orient Bambino Version 7 ref. RA-AC0M03S10B

In addition to their renowned divers, Orient also produces the classic “Bambino” (the name bestowed by its cult-like following, not the company) date-at-3 dress watch, which represents an excellent value proposition and a wide open gateway into watch collecting. It has a 38.4mm stainless steel case diameter, is 12.5mm thick, and has a modest 44mm lug-to-lug width, which fits most wrist sizes well. 

The domed mineral crystal exudes a warm, vintage vibe, and the exhibition caseback displays the Caliber F6724 movement, which is hackable and has a 40-hour power reserve. Like many dress watches, the hands are simple, elegant, and unlumed, and the silvery white dial will go well with dressier ensembles, whether work casual or formal. 

The watch is further adorned with a black leather strap and a signed onion-style, push-pull crown and has the usual modest 30m of water resistance common in dress watches. Retail: $270

8. Seiko Prospex King Turtle SRPE03

The story of Seiko’s cushion-style case professional dive watch dates back to the 1970s, and this 2022 reissue retains that “vintage hip” vibe while providing modern updates. As stated on the dial, this is an ISO-certified “Diver’s” watch providing 200m/660ft of water resistance.

Updates include a ceramic bezel insert and deeper angular grooving in the unidirectional bezel edge for better gripping underwater with gloves. The case size is 45mm in diameter, 13.3mm thick, with a 47.7mm lug-to-lug distance, and is sealed with a sapphire crystal,  solid caseback, and screw-down, unsigned crown at the 4 o’clock position. 

The dial has a waffle pattern, a day/date window at 3 o’clock, and a black dial and black bezel (other colorways are available). The traditional Seiko diver handset is filled with Lumibrite. The movement is the reliable workhorse Seiko Caliber 4R36 with a 41 hr. power reserve and beat rate of 21,600 vph. Retail: $500.

9. Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000D-1 Metal

The G-Shock model’s squarish case/dial design hearkens back to the “OG” all-digital DW-5000C from 1983. But instead of all resin construction, this reference has a mixed brush/polished finished stainless steel case and bracelet for a more upscale feel and look. 

Still, there is shock-resistant resin inserted between the case and bezel, which, along with the impact-resistant mineral glass crystal, enable the watch to hold up the heavy abuse of rough conditions. The case has a screw-in caseback and is 49.3mm x 43.2mm in diameter with 200m/660ft of water resistance. 

The watch has the familiar G-Shock features and functions (LED display backlighting, world time, timer, calendar, stopwatch, and alarm) but also contemporary features such as Bluetooth connectivity, long-lasting, Tough Solar movement with an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, and Multiband 6 radio which can synch with the atomic clock in six different time zones. Retail: $550.

10. Laco Pilot Basic Augsburg 42 ref. 861688.2

Flieger (“aviator”) style watches are highly regarded and sought after, and the “Made in Germany” Laco Pilot Basic Augsburg 42 is an excellent entry-level piece similar to those worn by Luftwaffe pilots in World War II. 

Pilot watches must enable “telling time at a glance”, and ease of use, and this reference meets this requirement with its highly contrasting, wide-faced, black matte dial and white SuperLuminova Arabic numeral hour indices, triangle, and two dots at 12 for orientation, oversized onion crown, and riveted leather strap. 

The sand-blasted stainless steel case has a sapphire crystal and is 42mm in diameter, 11.7mm in thickness, and has a 50mm lug-to-lug distance. It only has a water resistance of 50m, but if you need more than that, there may be something seriously wrong with your plane! The Miyota 821A movement is easy to regulate and service and helps keep costs down. Retail $410.

11. Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Salmon Dial on Strap ref. 87043Q17

Nivada Grenchen is a lesser-known but top-shelf Swiss brand dating back to 1926 and perhaps most known for being among the first to produce automatic watches and their participation in various 20^th century Antarctic expeditions. 

This chronograph uses 1970s art deco “Paul Newman” font and design cues. It also stands out with its salmon dial, tan-colored 24 hr., 60 min., and running seconds subdials, and white gradient minute track in the periphery. The stainless steel case has a 38mm diameter, 12.95 thickness, a lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm, is capped with a slightly domed sapphire crystal, and sealed with a solid caseback. 

A unique feature is the “hybrid” Seiko TMI VK53A meca-quartz movement which combines quartz accuracy with the mechanical function for the timing seconds hand. This reference is a  “Limited Edition”, per the company, but they don’t say how many. Retail: $479.

12. Unimatic UC2 Classic

Unimatic was founded in Italy in 2015 by Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato. The U2 Classic, cleverly dubbed “The Bono” by fans, is a field watch and capable diver with a screw-down crown and robust 300m/1000ft water resistance. 

It has a minimalist and modern aesthetic that includes a black dial with sparse lettering and lots of negative space, along with round, pale green SuperLuminova hour indices, baton hands, triangle at 12, and a basic hashed minute track chapter ring.

The all-brushed, stainless steel case is 38.5mm in diameter, 12.mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of 47.5mm, and houses a hackable Seiko NH35A movement with a 41 hr. power reserve, 21,600 vph,  and 24 jewels. It comes on a black fabric strap and has a solid caseback with an engraved “Rosa dei Venti” diagram depicting wind patterns used in navigation. Retail: $425.

13. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical with Tritium (GPM) 34mm

Founded in 1939, Marathon is a Canadian brand that has the distinction of being the last remaining official supplier of watches for the Canadian and U.S. armed forces. U.S.-issued watches carry an engraved, solid caseback indicating its conformity with the United States Military Standard MIL-PRF-46374G. 

This model is monochrome, with a black fabric strap, black dial, and 34mm stainless steel case with a black fiber shell (sage green and desert tan are also available). The small case diameter is best for smaller wrists or those seeking a “MIL-vintage” vibe. The movement is a hackable Seiko NH35 with a 41-hour power reserve. 

A unique feature of this and other Marathon models is the use of radioactive Tritium, safely stored in tubes, for the lumed indices and hands. Tritium will not be as bright as more modern luminescent materials, but it will glow without light stimulation and in all situations. Retail: $420.

14. Tissot PRX Quartz (ref. T137.410.11.091.01)

Since Tissot’s launch of the PRX (“Precise and Robust”) in 2021, it has quickly become the brand’s hottest selling line. The PRX is a refresh of the 1978 Tissot Seastar designed by legendary watchmaker Gerald Genta. 

Tissot’s aim was to use his integrated case/bracelet design to evoke the spirit of the hip 1970s, and some would say nod and wink toward the Vacheron 222. This reference has a light green dial, a stainless steel case diameter of 40mm, and a quartz movement, but Tissot has enlarged the PRX family to include a wide variety of dial colors, precious metals, and a 35mm option. 

A standout feature of the PRX is its high-quality stainless steel bracelet which has vertical brushing with pops of polish, a butterfly release, double-push clasp, and wears very comfortably on the wrist with little to no pinching. Retail: $395.

15. Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase

The Swatch Group’s MoonSwatch collection is a lineup of colorful quartz watches launched in 2022 and fashioned after the iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional, the “First Watch Worn on the Moon”. 

Mission to Earthphase, the 29^th piece in the series, has once again sent collectors into high orbit. It has a light gray “Bioceramic” case diameter of 42mm, 13.75mm thickness, and lug-to-lug distance of 47.3mm, along with a Velcro fabric strap that comes with all MoonSwatches. The dial is textured gray, but instead of subdials at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, the Earthphase has two apertures. 

At 10, a rotating disc shows Earthphase, the view of the earth from the lunar surface, while at 2 another shows the moonphase, the view of the moon from earth, both of which follow a 29.5-day cycle, but in reverse order. The Earth’s oceans glow under UV light, and the battery cover on the caseback has an image of Neil Armstrong’s footprint. Retail: $325.

Conclusion

While it is possible (make that “probable”) that a serious collector will spend thousands of dollars on a timepiece, part of the joy of the avocation is that there is just as much satisfaction in picking up a value-packed watch at a fraction of the cost, such as the sub-$500 price point. The old saying, “You get what you pay for”, is a good rule of thumb, but sometimes “less is more” holds true as well, resulting in a satisfying tick on the wrist and a smile on one’s face. 

“It’s complicated.” The phrase suggests something that is hard to understand or explain. A “complicated” watch, however, is usually viewed as desirable and a source of purpose and pleasure by enthusiasts.

The primary function of a watch is to tell the current time in hours, minutes, and, usually, seconds. A “complication” is a watch function that provides additional information beyond those three measurements.

Complications are usually visual, conveying additional details through extra dial print, subdials, apertures, bezels that calculate elapsed time and speed of moving objects, or additional hands that indicate how much power is left in the watch’s mechanism, or even the current time on the other side of the world.

But complications can be pleasing to the ears as well. Acoustic complications include alarms that countdown or sound at a set time, “repeaters” that ping or chime every minute, quarter hour, and hour, enabling the wearer to tell the time by sound alone, and even “music boxes” that play tunes.

In this article, I describe a few of the most popular complications available today. After reading this, you may discover that a “complicated watch” can be a good thing and a nice pickup for your collection.

Date Complications

A simple date complication indicating the numerical calendar day is the most desired and useful for an everyday wear watch.

A self-changing date complication, first introduced in the 1945 Rolex Datejust, is usually accomplished with a date wheel inside the watch case that rotates to the next day automatically as the time passes 00:00 hours (midnight). 

There is an aperture or date window, most often located at the 3 o’clock position, but sometimes at 4:30 or 6:00 as well. The day of the week is sometimes added, either as an abbreviation alongside the date at 3:00 or at 12:00 using the full name.

In addition to apertures, some watches use an extra hand called a “pointer” to show the date. These usually have the Arabic numerals 1-31 located along the outer edge of the dial in an area called the “chapter ring” or in a smaller dial within the main dial (“subdial”).

Pointers are often used in perpetual calendar watches with very complex—and expensive—mechanisms that can advance the day, date, month, and year correctly, including leap years, until the year 2100 without resetting as long as the watch is kept running. An annual calendar watch tracks the same information but must be reset every year.

Chronograph Complications

Another popular complication is the chronograph. “Chronograph” is derived from the Greek language and means “time recording”. Chronographs track both the current time and the elapsed time of an event. Most modern chronographs have a start/stop pusher at 2 o’clock position and a reset pusher at 4 o’clock. 

A long timing seconds hand is usually used that extends to seconds indices at the dial’s edge. In addition, subdials can track current running seconds as well as elapsed timing hours, minutes, and even fractions of seconds.

There are several variations of chronographs that go beyond the basic “stopwatch” format. 

A tachymeter is a numerical scale on the bezel that allows the calculation of the speed of a moving object over a set distance in either mph or kph. A telemeter scale on the bezel or dial can estimate the distance from an event that is seen and heard (e.g. a lightning strike and ensuing thunder), while a pulsometer scale can compute heart rate in beats per minute. Sometimes, all three are combined in one chronograph.

In addition, there are chronographs with more complicated mechanisms that fine-tune the measurement of elapsed time. A “rattrapante” (French for “catch up”) is a “splits seconds” chronograph that uses two timing seconds hands to measure total elapsed time as well as “split” or lap times. A “flyback” chronograph allows the user to start and stop the timing seconds hand and reset to zero with a single press of a pusher.

GMT/World Time Complications

GMT and World Time complications enable the wearer to track the time in different timezones around the world. “GMT” stands for Greenwich Mean Time, the system that designates 24 global timezones with a reference “Zero Hour” linked with the longitudinal Prime Meridian, which runs through the Royal Observatory near London.

GMT watches are typically four-hand watches with a GMT hand that tracks a 24-hour scale on the bezel, which may be rotating or stationary. There are two basic types: traveler (aka “flyer”) and desk (aka “caller”). 

A traveler GMT has a jumping local hours hand, which can be set independently when arriving in a different timezone without interrupting the watch’s timekeeping. The GMT hand stays on the time back home.

In contrast, a desk GMT has a jumping GMT hand that can be set independently to a different timezone while the local time keeps running, making it ideal for someone staying put but needing to know the time at a different location. A rotating bezel can track a third timezone with both traveler and desk types.

A world time complication can show not just 2-3 timezones but any time across the world. A common characteristic of all world timers is a list of reference cities representing the 24 global timezones and a 24-hour scale. The city list is usually located on an outer chapter ring, which may be stationary or rotating or on a rotating bezel. 

The 24-hour scale is usually located on an inner chapter ring, which can be set and rotated through every city over the course of the day. Other world timers use pushers that move some combination of the reference cities, 24-hour scale, or local hours hand.

It all sounds a little confusing and, well, “complicated”, but in real life, everything works out fine once you figure out your model’s mechanism.

Moonphase Complications

Some form of “moonphase” clock has been in use since ancient times when tracking the lunar cycle yielded important information regarding planting, harvesting, hunting, and fishing.

These days, a moonphase watch complication uses a rotating disc depicting the sunlit moon’s phases over a 29.5-day period, which is seen through a decorative, cutout aperture on the front of the dial, sometimes round, but usually arc-like, similar to a half-moon. 

A moonphase complication is not particularly accurate—or useful—but it is stylish and adds nice touches of color and additional interest and motion to the watch face that make them popular among collectors.

Though often associated with expensive, high horology, moonphase complications are also available in more affordable entry-level mechanical watches and every price point in between.

Tourbillons

When it comes to timekeeping, gravity is not a friend. The small components of a mechanical watch are affected by gravitational forces, resulting in “positional errors”, which adversely affect accuracy.

A tourbillon (French for “whirlwind” which describes the mechanism’s swirling motion) is a complication that mitigates these errors, making it, in effect, an “anti-gravity” machine. 

Basically, the balance wheel, balance spring, and escapement, the intricate parts most susceptible to positional errors, are located inside a rotating cage that helps average out gravitational forces in a mostly stationary timepiece such as a pocket watch.

The tourbillon was created by renowned French watchmaker Abraham-Lewis Breguet in 1795 and patented in 1801. Since that time, the tourbillon has evolved from the single-axis model of Breguet to more complex ones that use multi-axes, combinations of tourbillons, “flying” tourbillons mounted so they appear freestanding, and even ultra-sophisticated “gyro” ones that drive perpetual calendar watches.

There is controversy as to whether or not tourbillons improve accuracy significantly in modern watches that are non-stationary and rotating with the motion of the wearer’s wrist. 

But no one denies the intricate beauty of these complications seen through open, skeletonized dials and display casebacks. They can mesmerize and hypnotize for hours and have your boss frowning in chagrin at the inverse relationship between your watch addiction and office productivity.

Since tourbillons are complex and difficult to manufacture, they tend to be very expensive and associated with high-end horology. However, improvements in manufacturing and technology enable some companies to offer tourbillon watches for lower prices.

Power Reserve Indicators

A power reserve indicator is a watch complication that shows how much potential energy remains in a mechanical watch’s mainspring. Think of it as your watch’s “fuel gauge”. 

If you don’t wear a mechanical or automatic watch every day, it’s useful to know how much is “left in the tank” before you strap it on again, especially since a more fully wound mainspring is associated with greater accuracy.

Power reserve indicators are most often seen on dials and may take the form of a hand moving along an arc-shaped scale or within a subdial. Other dial indicators include bar or linear indicators that use a +/- scale or fill up as reserves decrease and color-coded gauges that vary as power levels change. Some people prefer a less cluttered dial, so there are watches with power reserve indicators on the movement, which can be seen through a display caseback.

Like tourbillons, some dismiss power reserve indicators in modern watches with large power reserves and self-winding, automatic movements, believing they are a needless feature from the past. However, one person’s superfluous fluff is another person’s desirable design element. Like beauty, a watch complication is “in the eye of the beholder”.

Mechanical Alarms

We set most alarms these days with our cell phones and digital watches and clocks, so mechanical alarm complications are much less common and cherished than in years past. But as one who owns mechanical watches in part to push back against the creeping tide of digitization and form connections with both my watches and the past, I say, “So what?”

A mechanical alarm complication allows the user to set an alarm within a 12-hour period. The first mechanical alarm watch was created by Eterna around 1914.

 But arguably the most iconic was the 1950s era Vulcain Cricket with a separate barrel system for the alarm that emitted a cool chirping sound, hence the name, and was famously associated with U.S. presidents such as Dwight Eisenhower and Richard Nixon, among others.

There are several other modern watch companies that still offer fine references with mechanical alarm complications, including Tudor, Patek Philippe, Breguet, Jaeger-Lecoultre, and Oris, to name a few. Here’s a link to the Exquisite Timepieces website, which features some of these.

I personally own two watches with mechanical alarms, and not only do I find them handy to wake me up from a catnap, but they also encourage me to slow down and engage with my watch, thereby nurturing the wearer-watch “connection”.

The reward consists of soft, soothing, Zen-like “dings”. Sometimes, I set an alarm for no other reason than to breathe deep and calm my soul.

Minute Repeaters

From mechanical alarms, we transition to the most complex acoustic complication—the minute repeater.

A minute repeater allows the user to tell time through a series of different auditory tones produced by hammers striking gongs. They were originally designed for telling time in the dark and for the visually impaired. 

Not surprisingly, Abraham-Louis Breguet, father of the tourbillon, also invented the first ones in the mid-18^th century. Unlike church bell chimes or grandfather clocks, which strike every quarter hour and hour, minute repeaters chime to tell time to the exact minute.

This is accomplished using an independent chiming mechanism that can be switched on or off—so yes, you can “mute” it. The actual tones and sequencing can differ from brand to brand. 

To illustrate, Patek Philippe uses a lower tone for hours, a two-toned sequence for quarter hours, and a higher-pitched single tone for minutes. For example, to designate 7:47, the minute repeater would strike seven low tones, 3 two-toned sequences, and 2 high-pitched single tones.

There are repeater variations with other sequences and pitches for hours, quarters, half-quarters, 10 minutes, 5 minutes, and single minutes, as well as “dumb” repeaters that don’t chime audibly but instead vibrate.

Along with tourbillons, minute repeaters are premium mechanisms that, while certainly not absolutely necessary for modern times, are nonetheless venerable and sought-after complications. 

As such, they are also very expensive. However, some companies offer less complex hours-only repeaters that still give you that calming chime every 60 minutes at a more affordable price point.

Conclusion

While time-only watches can certainly be aesthetically clean and appealing, we only experience the full range of watchmaking artisanship and functionality when we consider the many complications available in modern timepieces. If “variety is the spice of life,” then watch complications are the cinnamon, cumin, and paprika of horology.

Still, be careful and go easy—a little bit of complication can go a long way.

Modern Hamilton watches are “Swiss Made”, with headquarters and production in Bienne, Switzerland, but the company was “Born in the U.S.A.” in Lancaster, PA, in 1892. For over 70 years, Hamilton was an American brand known for robust and accurate watches worn by the country’s railroad workers, aviators, soldiers, sailors, and even musicians and movie stars, including “The King of Rock and Roll”, Elvis Presley.

During that same period, a new genre of music emerged from African American communities in the Deep South—jazz. Characterized by improvisation, smooth sounds, and upbeat rhythms, jazz channeled the fresh, frenetic energy of a nation coming into its own in the 20^th Century and adapting to a leading role on the world stage.

Hamilton sought to capture the spirit of jazz with the launch of the Jazzmaster Lord Hamilton Chronograph in 1967. Since then, the Jazzmaster line has evolved into the company’s largest collection by fusing classic designs with modern materials and designs to produce contemporary timepieces that exude refinement and sophistication—not unlike jazz itself.

In this review, I’ll discuss 15 top Jazzmaster models and offer guidance on which one might best suit your needs and lifestyle.

About Hamilton Jazzmaster Watches

Hamilton is best known for its military watches (“Khaki” collections) and prolific product placement pieces in movies and television, such as the “Ventura” and the Khaki Field “Murph”. 

Hamilton created the Jazzmaster collection by mixing mid-century and contemporary design cues, and it has grown to over 175 references that feature modern aesthetics, materials, movements (automatic and quartz available), and complications. Jazzmaster models lean more toward refined dress models than sport watches. 

However, there are Jazzmaster chronographs, and even some of the dressier references have some tool watch touches such as numbered bezels and enhanced water resistance that create a sporty, “do everything” vibe that fits right in at the concert hall or clubhouse.

Which Hamilton Jazzmaster Watch is Right for You

If you’re looking for a Hamilton watch rugged enough for outdoor and water activities, the Jazzmaster family will have fewer options for you to choose from than the brand’s Khaki collections. 

But let’s say you’ve already got sport and tool watches covered and want to add something more unique and eye-catching for a formal occasion or night out on the town. If that’s the case, then you will discover a plethora of possibilities in the Jazzmaster collection. If you want a little of both, there are sportier Jazzmasters that fit everyday work and casual needs. 

With over 175 references in the collection, there is a Jazzmaster that will suit nearly every lifestyle at prices that are among the best in the entry-level luxury category.

The 15 Best Hamilton Jazzmaster Watches

Here are micro-reviews of 15 top Hamilton Jazzmaster watches that demonstrate the broad range of offerings in this collection:

Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto (ref. H32475730)

The classic styling of a black dial and black leather strap make the Jazzmaster Auto a great choice for both dress and everyday office wear. The 40 mm diameter mixed polished and brushed finished stainless steel case fits a wide variety of wrists, and the 11mm thickness allows it to slide neatly beneath a shirt cuff. There are applied lumed silver color dagger indices and hour and minutes hands. 

The needle seconds hand reaches the silver seconds track and is lined with black indices that, fittingly, look like piano keys. There is a discrete date window at 6 ‘o’clock. Inside is the 80-hour power reserve Hamilton Caliber H-10 featuring an antimagnetic Nivachron™ hairspring and fine finishing touches showcased by a sapphire case back. 

The Jazzmaster Auto only has 50m of water resistance, but that should be more than enough to handle a splash of water every now and then. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono (ref. H36606130)

The Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono is a descendant of the “patriarch” Jazzmaster, the Lord Hamilton Chronograph. The 42 mm sapphire sandwich stainless steel case is mostly brushed, but polished accents include the elongated pushers, crown, and chamfered edges of the 22 mm width lugs. 

The case is paired with an all-brushed stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp. The dial is black with a silver border minutes track and three subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Indices are applied and lumed, and the hours and minutes hands are sword-shaped with an arrowhead-tipped timings seconds hand. 

The watch is powered by the Hamilton Calibre H-31 movement, which has a 60-hour power reserve. The screw-down crown assists in providing a respectable 100-meter of water resistance. 

This is a chronometer with a bit of flair and would fit a wide variety of daily needs, including dress occasions—a dash of Daytona, reverse “Panda” vibe without the forever wait and exorbitant price. Retail Price: $2,245

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema (ref. H42605731)

The Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema salutes Hamilton’s regular appearance in movies with a statement piece that was gifted to presenters and honorees at the 10^th Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards in 2018. 

The 42 mm size stainless steel case is 12.8 mm thick, has mixed brushed and polished finishing, a lug width of 22 mm, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. It is paired with a leather deployant strap and a Hamilton-signed double pusher clasp. 

The dial has a black textured finish and two subdials designed to look and function like spoked movie reels, employing a rotating red arrow to indicate hours and seconds. There is a long traditional minutes hand. 

The words “Hamilton Automatic” are embedded in a strip of film in the upper right. All the dial elements are integrated and feature contrasting black, red, silver, white, and gray. On the back is a sapphire display caseback with a flowing ribbon of movie film. Hurray for Hollywood! Hurray for Hamilton! Retail Price: $1,295 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Chrono Quartz (ref. H32612131)

The Jazzmaster Chrono Quartz is another great all-occasion watch for the person who wants both “set it and forget it” and elapsed timing capabilities. The case is 42 mm diameter, 12 mm thick stainless steel with mixed brushed and polished finishing and paired with a butterfly clasp, 22 mm width mixed finished stainless steel bracelet with integrated “H-shaped” central links that give a stylish overlapping effect. 

The dial is black with lumed dagger indices except for an Arabic numeral 12. The hour and minutes hands are lumed and Dauphine-style, and there is a needle timing seconds hand. Subdials are at 10, 2, and 6 and show timing 30 timing minutes, 1/10 seconds, and running seconds, respectively. 

There is a date complication at 4 o’clock. The pushers are elongated for comfort and easy use, and the crown is pull/push, not screw down, but water resistance is still 100m. The watch is powered by the ETA Caliber 251.74 quartz movement. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Rose Gold (ref. H36225770)

The Jazzmaster Performer performs true to the line’s mission of combining elegant styling with sporty touches and extended water resistance. This one is unique in that the 38mm diameter, 11.5mm thick, 18 mm lug width case is rose gold PVD coated stainless steel for an upscale look. It is mostly brushed but has a polished, chamfered edge on the lugs and a screw-down, signed crown. The bezel is black with white Arabic numerals. 

The dial is off-white with only a logo and minimal script, leaving it uncluttered and legible. The indices, Dauphine hour and minutes hands, and the needle seconds hand are all gold colored. A display caseback showcases the high-performing and beautifully finished Hamilton Calibre H-10 no-date, 80-hour power reserve, 21,600 bph movement. The high-quality leather perforated racing strap with pin buckle gives it an extra sport touch. Retail Price: $1,145 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Special Edition (ref. H38421130)

The Jazzmaster Thinline Special Edition is a quartz movement, movie-themed watch inspired by the movie The Wandering Earth II, directed by Frant Gwo and based on a novel by Chinese science fiction writer Liu Cixin. 

It has a jet-black matte finish dial with an impressed planetary design and lumed, red hour and minutes hand and non-lumped small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. Within the small seconds subdial is the printed Hamilton name and logo. The streamlined stainless steel case is only 7.35 mm thick and 40 mm in diameter with 20 mm wide lugs. 

The closed caseback is engraved with the same planetary design as the dial and a “G” for the film’s director Gwo. It has a stainless steel butterfly clasp bracelet with mixed brushed and polished overlapping links. This quartz watch is definitely more a specialty piece than for everyday wear, and it might appeal to fans of both sci-fi and space exploration. Retail Price: $695 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto (ref. H32675540)

This Jazzmaster has an “open heart”, a cutout in the dial that allows a view of the watch’s mechanism. Such “open access” watches are usually associated with dress watches, so naturally the Jazzmaster collection has many of these. 

This reference features a gradient dial that transitions from almost black in the periphery to a “smoky blue” center. Open heart areas are located between 7 and 8 o’clock and from 11 to 4 o’clock. It has lumed dagger indices and hour and minutes hands and an arrowhead tip on the short, central end of the needle seconds hand. 

The case is 40mm stainless steel with mixed brushed and polished finishing and is only 11mm thick. There is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and display caseback. The movement is the no-date Hamilton H-10 with an 80-hour power reserve. The strap is 18mm in width, brown cow leather, with a pin buckle clasp. With only 50 m of water resistance, this works better with a tux than a tee. Retail Price: $1,075 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face III (ref. H32876550)

Calling someone “two-faced” isn’t normally a compliment, but in the case of the Jazzmaster Face 2 Face III, it is. This limited edition of 999 pieces is one of the most intriguing—and at 17.6 mm, probably also one of the thickest—chronographs out there. 

On one side of the 44 mm diameter, 22 mm lug width stainless steel case is a day-date at 3 o’clock chronograph, with a partial skeletonization showing the rotating date wheel. The flip side showcases the Hamilton H-41 movement through a display caseback and has both a tachymeter and pulsometer. 

One changes dial faces by rotating the entire case using two “hinges” at 9 and 3 o’clock. The main dial is black with subdials at 12, 9, and 6 with differing sizes, colors (the bottom subdial is blue) , and textures, creating a very unique and eye-pleasing aesthetic, an effect enhanced by the brown leather strap with blue stitching. Yes, it’s a “two-faced” and “complicated” watch—but in a good way. Retail Price: $2,995 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic Auto (ref. H32715131)

The Viewmatic Auto is a 44 mm case diameter dress watch but is only 10.4 mm thick. If you have a thicker wrist and 38 or 40 mm diameter watches look disproportional, then this one has to be on your short list. The dial is a do-it-all black and is very balanced and uncluttered, with simple “Hamilton” branding on the top half and “automatic” on the bottom, a minute track near the rehaut, and a small date window at 3 o’clock. 

The dagger shaped indices and hour and minutes hands have enough lume to get by, but remember, it’s more a dress watch, not a sports one. Sapphire is used on the front crystal and display caseback which provides a view of the 28,800 bph, 38 hour power reserve ETA 2824-2. It’s a nice choice for the person who glances down at their ample wrist and says, “I’m gonna need a bigger watch.” Retail Price: $895.00 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Auto (ref. H38525771)

Most Jazzmaster straps and bracelets can be swapped out easily thanks to Hamilton’s “EasyClick” quick-release system. The Jazzmaster Thinline Auto has a deep, burgundy red dial and black leather strap, making it a dressy piece for formal occasions but with enough pop of color to add some interest and flair. 

With a variety of available dial and strap colors and bracelet types, one could easily transform a Thinline Auto to work in a more casual or work setting as well. The stainless steel case measures in at 40mm, and true to its name, is a wafer thin 8.45 mm. 

A date window is discreetly dropped at the 6 o’clock position. Turn over the Thinline Auto, and a sapphire display back provides a view of the ETA Caliber 2892-A2 movement working away at 28,800 bph with a power reserve of 42 hours. Classy, contemporary—pure Jazzmaster. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Seaview Day Date Quartz (ref. H37551141)

The Jazzmaster Seaview Day Date has 100 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown and neatly bridges the gap between the line’s dressier models and Hamilton’s “outdoorsy” Khaki family. 

The sporty 42 mm diameter stainless steel case is 10.85 mm thick and has a unidirectional timing bezel marked with simple lines and no numerals. The dial and bezel are a matching deep sea blue. The crown is signed with a silver “H” against a blue background. The Dauphine hours and minutes hands and “arrowhead” indices have adequate lume but not as much as true dive watches. 

True to the name, there are day and date windows at 3 o’clock. The bracelet is 3-link with polished outer links and brushed in the middle, with a butterfly clasp. An ETA quartz movement provides, “set it and forget it” capability, making it both accurate and a commonsense choice for everyday wear and moderate aquatic activities. Retail Price: $745

Hamilton Jazzmaster Gent Quartz (ref. H32411735)

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Gent Quartz could easily qualify as the “little black dress” of the watch world—simple, easy to maintain, affordable, and can be dressed up or down for a wide variety of occasions. 

Its mixed finished, 38 mm diameter, stainless steel case will fit a large range of wrist sizes. Its 8 mm case thickness makes for a light wrist presence and easy slide beneath a cuff. The dial is all black, with a sunburst finish central portion transitioning to a matte finish “step off” and taper downward the periphery. The lumed indices are an interesting and visually pleasing mix of Arabic numerals and arrowheads. 

The minutes track is a mix of variable-length hash marks and Arabic numerals at 5-minute intervals. The only print on the dial is a simple “Hamilton”. There is a quadrangular date window at 3 o’clock. The strap width is 18 mm wide, black leather with white stitching, with a pin buckle. “Sometimes less is more.” Retail Price: $545

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Auto (ref. H42615743)

From the simplicity of the Gent Quartz, we move to the asymmetrical complexity of the dressy, no-date Jazzmaster Regulator Auto, a “tri-dial” design that could be displayed at a museum of modern art. Only the minutes hand is a traditionally central one; the other two are subdials, an hours one in the upper left and a slightly smaller and overlapping seconds one in the lower right. 

With a 42 mm diameter stainless steel case and narrow integrated bezel, there’s plenty of room for all design elements to coexist peacefully. The dial color is a deep rich blue with varying finishes: matte in the main dial, and sunburst and concentric circles in the hour and seconds subdials, respectively. 

The 22m wide strap is black leather with a deployant clasp. As a dress watch, it naturally has a modest 50 meters of water resistance. The engine is the Hamilton Caliber H-12 showcased by a sapphire caseback. Retail Price: $1,275 

Hamilton Jazzmaster GMT Auto (ref. H32695731)

The Jazzmaster GMT Auto has both a jumping “office or caller” GMT hand as well as a city world time ring in the periphery that can be rotated with the extra crown at the 9:30 position. Unlike many sport GMTs, this piece provides similar capabilities in a more refined package consistent with the Jazzmaster family ethos. 

The 42 mm stainless steel case has a thickness of only 11.5 mm, svelte by GMT standards. The dial is black with a subtle sunburst finish that exhibits differing effects and hues in variable light. The red GMT hand provides a nice contrasting pop of red. 

The white 24-hour scale and black-and-white rotating city disc cram in a lot of information, but with sparse print and a discreet date window at 6, the dial still appears relatively uncluttered and legible. It is powered by the 2893-2 movement. Retail Price: $1,295 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II (ref. H32866781)

The Face 2 Face Auto Chrono is a limited edition of 1,999 pieces that has a lot going on: oval 53 mm x 44 mm stainless steel case, 17.4 mm thickness, and by my count, six complications: day, date, chronograph, tachymetry, telemetry, and pulsometry. 

That means 3 overlapping subdials on the partially skeletonized main watch face, including a ginormous running seconds subdial that takes up almost half of the main dial. This has the same rotating case feature as the aforementioned Face 2 Face III, and on the other side is a sapphire display with a view of the Caliber H-41 movement as well as tachymetry, telemetry, and pulsometry with a sky blue measuring hand. 

There is a 24 mm wide black leather strap with the same sky blue stitching and a folding clasp. This one will garner queries from regular folks and watch enthusiasts alike; the real question is: Will you be able to explain them when asked? Retail Price: $3,995 .

Conclusion

The Jazzmaster ensemble is a reminder from Hamilton of a hip and improvisational, “cool daddy-o” side to their corporate personality that adds complexity and interest to their more famous core collections of military and movie watches. Jazz music might not be for everyone, but chances are there is at least one Hamilton Jazzmaster that is right for you. 

In the wide, wild world of hype, steady performers who show up, clock in, get the job done, then wake up and do it all over again are often overlooked.

If watches had feelings and could talk, the Omega Railmaster would probably sigh and say, “Yeah, tell me something I didn’t already know.”

The Omega Railmaster has been on the scene since 1957, reliably tracking time and looking good while doing it. Yet it’s gained so little fanfare that many watch enthusiasts aren’t even aware it exists.

Why? This review will aim to answer that question and demonstrate that “the little watch that could”, while overshadowed by its sexier Speedmaster and Seamaster siblings, still remains a prime option for those seeking a watch with both rich history and modern watchmaking technology.

About the Omega Railmaster

The Railmaster, technically the “Omega Seamaster Railmaster”, is an industrial tool watch with a stainless steel case and strong anti-magnetic protection, making it especially suitable for railway workers (hence the name), scientists, healthcare workers, and others who might be exposed to strong magnetic fields on the job which might disrupt the performance of a typical mechanical watch.

The Railmaster evolved over the years into contemporary references with enhanced anti-magnetic shielding, appealing modern interpretation of vintage design cues, and the powerful and precise timing of a METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement.

History of Omega Railmaster Watches

The Railmaster was born in 1957, the “middle child” of the “Master” triplets that included the iconic Speedmaster and Seamaster 300. Sometimes referred to as the “Holy Trinity” (as if the watch world needed yet another to confuse matters), the broad-arrow hour handed trio are pictured in early print ads with the Railmaster sandwiched between its siblings; ironic, considering the difficulty it would face competing for elbow room with watches that would end up on the wrists of James Bond and Apollo astronauts.

In the heyday of the mid-20th century “Atomic Age”, when the promise of a hover car in every garage and a jetpack on every back seemed close at hand, a robust 38mm diameter stainless steel outer case with a soft iron inner core (essentially, a “Faraday cage”) protecting the movement against up to 1,000 gauss of magnetism probably seemed like a must-have feature for the “watch of the future”. It was also a means to compete with the Rolex Milgauss and IWC Ingenieur, which provided similar safeguarding.

But by 1963, the Seamaster and Speedmaster were soaring in popularity, and the Railmaster had failed to capture the hearts and imaginations of the public, so Omega discontinued it. Today, the relatively rare CK2914 references from that six-year period are highly sought after in the vintage watch market.

In 2003, Omega reintroduced the Railmaster and moved the broad arrow to the minutes hand, and added a sapphire display caseback to showcase George Daniel’s co-axial escapement movement the brand started using in 1999. In 2008, Omega released the ginormous 49.2mm XXL reference, but their seemingly disjointed attempts to revitalize the Railmaster ultimately stalled, and the model was discontinued for a second time in 2012.

In 2017, Omega released limited edition Railmasters, which were part of a 60^th anniversary celebration of the 1957 “Masters” models, along with several Seamaster Heritage model Railmaster references characterized by a mix of vintage and modern styling elements. All 2017 novelties included improved 15,000 gauss anti-magnetic protection and a METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement.

Omega Railmaster: In-Depth Review

Let’s look at the exterior and under the hood of the Railmaster and gain further appreciation for a traditionally underrated but extraordinary watch.

Case Size and Material

Both the 60^th anniversary limited Railmasters and ongoing Seamaster Heritage model references have improved stainless steel cases with screw-down crowns that eliminate the need for an inner core and provide an amazing 15,000 gauss of anti-magnetic protection and a very respectable 150 meters/500 feet of water resistance.

The 1957 references have a 38mm diameter in keeping with the original CK2914, a thickness of 12.7mm, a lug-to-lug width of 48mm, and a lug width of 19mm. The Seamaster Heritage Railmaster references are 40mm in diameter and have a thickness of 12.7mm, a lug-to-lug width of 47mm, and a lug width of 20mm, which makes them quintessential “strap monsters”. Both diameters fit essentially true to size and are suitable for most wrists.

The cases have a round shape with similar design elements such as smooth integrated bezels, the familiar Omega twisted lugs, anti-reflective sapphire crystals, and solid casebacks with the “NAIAD LOCK” feature that ensures the engraved Omega hippocampus and print are vertically aligned.

There are some aesthetic differences between the various models in terms of polished versus brushed finishing, caseback designs, and crown shape that I’ll cover in later sections of the review.

Dials

The limited edition Railmaster references exude a 1957 vintage vibe with tropical black dials and white 3,6,9,12 positioned Arabic numerals and recessed, triangular hour indices filled with SuperLuminova the color of faux patina or “old radium” which glows green in the dark. 

The handset includes a lumed broad arrow hour hand and dagger minute hand with an un-lumed needle seconds hand. There are slight differences in dial print between the two throwback references I’ll discuss in a bit.

Several Heritage model Railmaster references retain the Arabic numeral positioning, triangular indices (not recessed, though), and faux patina lume, while the 2 blue denim dials use white indices and lume. All offer more modern styled stick hour and minute hands and a “lollipop” seconds hand. 

The minute indices are cleverly designed to appear like a railroad track (Woo woo!), and there is a central “crosshair” that segments the dial for additional vintage effect. The dial is printed with the Omega name and logo in the upper half, and a script “Railmaster” and printed “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” in the lower. 

Dial colors include black, gray, and blue “denim” with a vertically brushed finish. The Omega website currently shows only a black dial reference available for sale, but all colors are still obtainable through the Exquisite Timepieces website.

Movement

All modern Railmaster references share a powerful and accurate engine—the automatic METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8806 . The movement has bi-directional winding and a rated accuracy of +5/0 seconds per day, a free-spring balance wheel and magnetic-resistant silicon balance spring, a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour, 35 jewels, and boasts a 55-hour power reserve.

Strap options

The stainless steel bracelets for the 1957 references are 19mm in lug width with a wide, fold over brushed clasp with a signed “Ω”. The chunky clasp has been panned by some reviewers for its relative lack of comfort. On the bright side, the clasp does have what Omega calls a “comfort setting”, which is an “on-the-fly” micro adjustment activated by a button on the inside of the clasp. The 3-link bracelet design features wide center links with a vertically brushed finish and narrower, polished outer links to match the polished lugs.

The Heritage Railmaster stainless steel bracelet is also a 3-link design featuring wide center links with narrower outside links but is completely brushed to complement the all brushed finish of the case and lugs. 

Another difference is the narrower butterfly clasp (no micro-adjustment) which is signed with both the Omega name and logo. All modern Railmasters feature screw-in links with half links for easier and more precise sizing. Some Heritage Railmaster references also come with herringbone black fabric pin buckle and NATO-style blue denim and brown leather straps.

Most Popular Omega Railmaster Models

Here are 5 noteworthy and popular Omega Railmaster models:

Omega Railmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer 40mm on Bracelet (ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001)

This all-stainless steel Heritage Railmaster has a sporty, all-brushed finish case and bracelet. Still, it creates an almost “faux-polished” look due to the brushed bracelet and varying directions of brush lines on the case sides, bezel, facets, and lugs. 

The vertically brushed finish of the black dial seems to emit different shades of black, gray, or dark blue depending on the light and rotation of the watch. The guilloché facets on the medallion caseback provides a contrasting backdrop for the Omega hippocampus and logo. And let’s not forget the easy-to-grasp, “cupcake” shaped, screw-down crown which opens with a satisfying “Snap!”

Omega Seamaster Railmaster 1957 (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.002)

This 60^th Anniversary 1957 reference is part of a 3,557 piece limited edition and is slightly different from the one in the 557 piece “Trilogy” boxed set. It features an old school broad arrow hour hand, case with mixed polished and brushed finishes that flash impressively when the watch is rotated in the light, and a polished caseback with the engraved limited edition number of the watch. 

A cool vintage detail is the naiad “Mercedes”-like symbol, which originally signified enhanced water resistance, inside the Omega logo on the crown. It’s not shown on the Omega website, but Exquisite Timepieces has you covered.

Omega Railmaster Blue Dial Denim Co-Axial Master Chronometer NATO strap (ref. 220.12.40.20.03.001)

This playful and colorful Heritage collection Railmaster reference evokes visions of the blue denim-clad railroad workers who needed an anti-magnetic watch like this back in the day. The vertically brushed dial finish also provides varying shades of blue when rotated in the light. 

White indices and lume are used instead of faux patina. It comes with a matching denim-blue colored fabric NATO strap. The keepers on the strap, as well as the seconds hand and script “Railmaster” signature on the dial, are a bronze color, providing a refreshing pop of contrast.

Omega Railmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer 40mm on NATO strap (ref. 220.12.40.20.06.001)

Similar in style to the previous model, this Railmaster model has a brown leather instead of denim-blue cloth NATO strap. In addition, the dial is vertically brushed with streaks of variable gray and has faux patina lumed hands and triangular indices, and script “Railmaster” printed on the dial, along with contrasting black “railroad” track minute indices, 3,6,9,12-positioned Arabic numerals, “Omega” name/logo, and “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” branding. The case is also available with a steel bracelet (ref. 220.10.40.20.06.001)

Omega Seamaster Railmaster Trilogy Limited Edition (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.003)

The 1957 “Trilogy” reference was sold along with sibling 1957 Seamaster 300 and Speedmaster models in a limited edition boxed set of 557 pieces and is nearly identical to the ref. 220.10.38.20.01.002. The “Trilogy” sets are available on the secondary market but hard to find and often exceed $20,000. 

What’s different between the two 1957 references? This model has the word “Trilogy” engraved on the polished caseback and printed near the top of the tropical black dial, plus numerals beneath the dial “Trilogy” that indicate which numbered piece it is in the series.

Should You Buy An Omega Seamaster Railmaster?

You don’t have to be a railroad worker or scientist to appreciate the experience of owning a Railmaster. Despite its relative anonymity, it’s a performance beast with a simple but handsome face that you should definitely check out if a blend of rich heritage and modern specs is what you’re after.

Omega Railmaster Pricing & Availability

Once again, Omega appears to be phasing out this interesting watch, but new models ranging from $5,400 to $7,500 are still available from some dealers, including 7 references on the Exquisite Timepieces website. Secondary market prices of many models are in the $4,500 and under range.

Conclusion

Like many “parents”, Omega has sometimes had a hard time explaining and supporting a child that lags behind its siblings. As a result, the Railmaster, despite high performing specs and elegant but simple good looks, has toiled in the shadows and beneath the radar of many watch enthusiasts.

Still, the Railmaster is a vital piece of Omega and horological history, and with it potentially on the chopping block again, now may be the time to show your support and “adopt” a very deserving “middle child” of a timepiece that just might end up being among the favorites you ever own.