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tag heuer connected review

TAG Heuer Connected Review (READ Before Buying!)

Marcus Henry

April 4, 2025

Smartwatches are a pretty purpose-built genre. For the most part, they’re designed to exist unobtrusively on your wrist and are shaped entirely around their function. 

Popular companies such as Garmin and G-Shock love to use incredibly light materials, such as resin and titanium and are sure to advertise the utter weightlessness of their product.

But what if it didn’t have to be that way? What if you could find a smartwatch that didn’t hide its design but embraced it? A watch that wants to be seen and felt in its position on your wrist.

I know that was a bit of a theatrical intro, but the TAG Heuer Connected is really just that. It’s a smartwatch you’ll want to flash around a little. 

Not in a “look at me, I’m wearing a luxury smartwatch” kind of way (looking at you, Hublot Big Bang e Titanium Diamonds), but in a way that whispers, “this is a quality product that is built to last.”

If you’re still reading this, something about that speaks to you that’s worth investigating. So, let’s take a look at TAG Heuer’s Swiss smartwatches: the Connected E4 and the Golf Edition.

History

TAG Heuer Connected history

The TAG Heuer Connected collection turns one decade old this year. At its unveiling in 2015, then-CEO and industry legend Jean-Claude Biver proudly declared that the watch exemplified “Silicon Valley meets Switzerland,” and I think he was certainly right to do so. 

It was originally created through a partnership with Intel and Google since the watch is powered by Google’s Wear OS but features TAG Heuer’s iconic design. 

It was designed from the start to be a luxury Swiss smartwatch alternative, for those looking for just a little extra class on their wrist but with all the functionality of modern smartwatch tech.

The collection has evolved over the years—the current edition is the fourth, the E4—but the basic DNA remains the same. 

TAG Heuer didn’t want to create a distinctive smartwatch, but rather a smartwatch that looks in every way like a normal watch, with all the elegance that they know how to infuse in everything they make. 

This is reflected in the case profile and the ceramic bezel, as well as the display, which throughout the collection’s history has been based on various watch faces offered by TAG Heuer.

Case

At first glance, anyone could be easily fooled into thinking the TAG Heuer Connected is really a mechanical TAG watch, and a large part of creating that elegant appearance is the case structure. 

TAG offers either a 42mm or a 45mm case with two pushers and a crown, much like you might see on a chronograph. Thankfully, TAG Heuer is careful to compensate for the large diameter by adding shorter lugs, making for an overall very wearable smartwatch.

The buttons and crown are specifically designed to be extremely ergonomic, comfortable and easy to use, and they sure look it. Personally, I’m a big fan of the tapered pushers, which have such a sleek shape and really accentuate the structure of the lugs. 

The crown is engraved with TAG Heuer’s logo and looks much like a standard watch crown, really helping to sell its watch identity.

In particular, the PVD ceramic bezel is an exceptional luxury touch that you’d be hard-pressed to find in nearly any other smartwatch on the market today. 

Not only that, but the sapphire crystal actually extends over this bezel, meaning that it won’t impede your usage of the touchscreen—so you get a touch of luxury shine without sacrificing the practical usage of the watch. With this case, TAG Heuer has really pushed the boundaries of what a smartwatch can be.

Display

If the case is the outfit your watch wears, and the movement is the beating heart, the display is the face, perhaps the most important element in creating an overall elegant presentation. TAG Heuer definitely put quite a good deal of attention into creating the different display options for their Connected E4, and all of the dial options are available directly from the company. 

While this means you don’t have the incredibly wide variety that you’d get with a Garmin, where people can design dials and sell them on the Garmin store, this also ensures that each dial will be high-quality and have razor-sharp clarity.

The dial options are simple but very clean. Most come directly from watches that TAG Heuer offers—even some that are directly inspired by their mechanical offerings, such as one face that features a virtual flying tourbillon (which may just be the single most ironic thing I’ve ever seen on a watch, but I digress). Another that replicates a mechanical skeleton dial.

The display itself is a touchscreen covered by a hard sapphire crystal, so you won’t acquire too many scratches on that lovely clear display. The screen is AMOLED, so it’s very bright when it’s active. 

The dial will go into an ambient mode when not directly in use, but the screen merely dims instead of going fully dark, so you don’t have to flick your wrist around and get the watch to turn on fully just to be able to see the time. 

To me, this is yet another proof of TAG Heuer’s intentionality in producing a smartwatch that works just like any other watch they make—easy to use and just as easy to tell the time as a mechanical timepiece.

Depending on which edition of the watch you spring for, you can also get different faces. The Golf Edition, for example, comes with 5 unique golf-inspired faces. 

In the past, TAG has also made Connected collaborations with Porsche and—believe it or not—Super Mario, so if you pick up an older one of these, you can even get custom dials featuring everyone’s favorite cartoon plumber. 

Oh, and there’s a current collaboration with the Oracle Red Bull Racing team with plenty of special dials inspired by the team’s colors. Outside of the special editions, however, you’ll be stuck with the much more restrained standard dial features.

Smartwatch Features and Battery Life

Let me preface this section with a brief disclaimer. You will probably be disappointed by the features the Connected E4 has to offer. I was, anyways. It’s not exactly a winning combo. In TAG’s defense, however—that’s not really the point. 

The watch is elegant, simple, and made to have a luxury feel and design. It’s not about cutting-edge technology. Would that have been nice to see here for a watch of this price? Absolutely. But at its essence, that’s not what it’s all about.

In any case, I’m not here to make an apology for the Connected E4, so it’s up to you whether the overall design and the features that are available are worth it for this watch. Let’s start off with the battery life, which is just one day (or two if you don’t use it late at night). It’s not exactly the 40-some days you can get on a Garmin with solar charging, but it’s also not built for the things the Garmin is, like adventuring off the grid. 

You’re wearing it around your home and around town, not to go explore uncharted waters. But a little bit longer would have been nice. Thankfully, the supplied charger is pretty cool, and I love the little TAG Heuer logo which lights up when it’s charging.

In terms of basic specs, the Connected E4 comes with a heart rate monitor, a GPS, and an accelerometer for swimming, running, and other activities. These all perform relatively well, with the possible exception of the heart rate monitor—I’ve heard a few complaints that it undercounts, which can also impact other calculations like your calories burned. These basic hardware features power each of the applications the watch has to offer.

If you’re a world-class athlete, you’d be much better off training with a Garmin or COROS than this TAG Heuer. TAG’s suite of wellness applications is relatively limited when compared to most others on the market. You do get real-time calories burned and energy management for races and other competitions, along with training sessions. 

In this latter category, you can actually follow programs made by top athletes (presumably TAG Heuer ambassadors), which is relatively compelling, and also follow along with a display of how to do specific exercises on the watch screen. It’s more of an everyday hitting-the-gym companion than an athletic trainer, to say the least.

Outside of the sports and fitness applications, you do get most of the other functions you’d expect from a modern smartwatch, like notifications, weather, calendar, and music syncing with your phone. The baseline is there, and it’s pretty strong, but it’s not exceptional cutting-edge tech.

Lastly, let’s touch on the golf-specific apps, which are, of course, exclusive to the Golf Edition of the Connected E4. These are actually pretty fantastic, and I was pleasantly surprised to see pretty much everything a golfer could ask for here. You’ve got automatic scoring for you and scorecard-keeping for everyone golfing with you. 

2D and 3D maps of 40,000 golf courses around the world, plus 3D mapping of all your shots over the map as you progress. Stats and feedback on how you did after your trip is over. Recommendations on which club to use for each shot. 

I’m not much of a golfer, but I really can’t think of much more you could ask for. If you’re looking for a golf companion, the TAG Heuer Connected really stands out from its competition.

Straps

There’s not too much to say about the different strap options here, as TAG Heuer has kept it pretty simple. Almost every option comes—if you don’t configure it—on a rubber strap, which is perfectly fine, honestly. Not much to comment on, but it gets the job done and is what 99% of people who are wearing a smartwatch will be looking for. 

Can you easily swap it out for leather if you so wish? Absolutely, TAG even gives you that option upfront when buying the watch, and you can just as well swap out for your own leather strap. But it’s a simple, workhorse option that comes right with the watch, and most people won’t have any need to swap anything out. 

If you spring for the Golf Edition, you’ll get a rubber strap with a little extra texture, inspired by golf balls in a way that’s not super obtrusive or gimmicky, but actually works pretty well.

That said… TAG Heuer does also offer the option to pair a steel bracelet with a steel case watch in either size. I can’t help but love it. It feels so ridiculous in so many ways. A luxury steel integrated bracelet on a smartwatch? Where do I sign up? It’s like Hublot putting their dress watches on a rubber strap. 

It just makes no sense, and yet it works perfectly for this watch. The bracelet itself is pretty darn good, too, with very little gap between links and mirrored central links contrasting with the brushed ends. Frankly, it has no right to look this good.

On-Wrist Experience

TAG Heuer Connected On-wrist experience

TAG Heuer manages to nearly perfectly accomplish what they set out to do: create a smartwatch that has an immaculate luxury look and feel. The watch is big, to be sure, and for those with smaller wrists, you’ll definitely want to go for the 42mm size. 

That said, TAG shortened the lugs a little to make for a watch that’s ever so slightly more wearable than how its measurement sounds. This means you get a larger display, which is perfect for its smartwatch nature, with extra wearability.

The look is definitely the biggest draw of the watch because most of the smartwatch features won’t cut it for a lot of people who are looking for a serious tool to wear. The heart rate monitor and pared-back fitness features are perfectly fine for a guy like me who just drops by the gym to stay relatively in shape and spends most of his time safely ensconced within civilization. 

For me, I really appreciate the luxury look and feel of the watch, and I don’t mind as much not having the latest tech and tactical features. It’s a watch I feel comfortable wearing with most outfits and even taking out to more formal events. That’s really the draw of the watch for almost anyone, I’m sure.

A last thing I want to touch on in terms of the watch’s everyday wearability is the way it integrates with your phone. It doesn’t have any sort of built-in cellular, so everything comes directly from Bluetooth with your phone. Since it runs on Google’s Wear OS, this can cause some problems for some (but not all) iPhone users. 

I’ve heard a few reports that the watch often struggles to pair with their phone. To really get it to work well with your iPhone, you end up needing to download the Google Wear OS app, as well as the TAG Heuer Connected app, which can be problematic for both your storage and the space on your home screen. 

You also can’t directly reply to notifications on the watch with an iPhone. It just integrates a lot better with Androids as a consequence of its Google-powered innards and can be a little frustrating at times to use with an iPhone. 

If you’re an Android user, this is all well and good and can be a little extra advantage with having the watch. If you’re an Apple fan, be sure to save a little screen and storage space for the apps you’ll need.

Price & Availability

The TAG Heuer Connected E4 currently goes for around $1,450, or $1,950 for the Golf Edition. This is sort of an average value, since there are different prices for the normal one depending on case material and how you choose to configure it, but it hovers around there.

Interestingly, the retail price of the watch has been steadily going down over time, which I actually really appreciate. TAG Heuer has shown an awareness of the market, and of how competitive their product is with other smartwatches that are available right now, and since the technology of the E4 has been outstripped in several ways recently, the price has gone down accordingly. It’s still not cheap, but it’s significantly lower than it was before (well over $2,000!), and I appreciate the intentionality from TAG here.

It’s certainly an expensive smartwatch option, but it’s also a luxury item that comes with the TAG Heuer brand name and is built to last. Yes, it costs more upfront, but it can also last you longer even while others are upgrading to the latest iterations of whatever smartwatch they’re into and end up spending more money.

Note as well that TAG also offers a trade-in program, where you can sell your E4 to get some money back towards a newer edition of the watch. If they release a new collection in the future, you won’t have to worry about missing out just because you got an older version of the watch.

You can find the TAG Heuer Connected E4 for sale on the company’s website at around $1,450.

Conclusion

It’s not a watch that’s going to stun your friends with its crazy features and long battery life, but it sure is beautiful. And in the end, that’s what TAG wanted. Whether you like it as it is or not, TAG Heuer hit their goal dead-on with this one, and I think there’s something to be respected in that. 

A luxury Swiss watchmaking house stuck to its guns and made something following its own ideals, its own design, and its own character, and this is the product. Love it or hate it, it’s a pretty darn good watch that deserves a round of applause.

rolex explorer review

Rolex Explorer Review (Read BEFORE You Buy!)

Marcus Henry

April 3, 2025

Scrolling through the list of collections on Rolex’s website reveals just one icon after another. Datejust. Submariner. GMT-Master II.

The list reads more like a hall of fame for watches than a company website. You have to scroll past most of these other legends to reach the Explorer collection towards the end, almost as if Rolex is keeping this one hidden away for those with a little extra intentionality.

That extra searching will meet with a full reward, I assure you, for the Explorer collection is one of Rolex’s very finest. It couples Rolex’s traditional heritage with the tool watch style that they do best. 

It’s simple and understated, which is central to Rolex’s historical identity. It is Rolex distilled to a single drop. No flash. No flair. Just a nearly perfect tool watch that works. And keeps on working.

Whether you’re scaling the highest mountains or clocking a 9 to 5, the Rolex Explorer captures the spirit of adventure in every moment. It can weather any storm, from a blizzard on Mount Everest to a rapidly approaching deadline. If you’re looking for a go-anywhere, do-anything watch by the watchmaking brand, look no further.

History

Rolex Explorer History

The Oyster Perpetual Explorer was first introduced by Rolex to commemorate the first-ever summit of Everest in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary. Contrary to popular belief, Hillary himself was wearing a Smiths watch, but his team was wearing Oyster Perpetuals. 

As such, the Explorer itself wasn’t on the first summit of Everest, but mountaineering is in its DNA. From the inside out, it was designed to provide extreme precision even in extreme conditions.

The Explorer was one of Rolex’s first Professional watches. It’s far from the elegant flair of a Cartier Tank—essentially, it is for professionals, those pushing the limits of what is possible.

In the most extreme conditions, you don’t want a cheap battery-powered watch on your wrist that’s barely waterproof and could die at any moment.

Or at least, so the pros say. I wouldn’t know myself. The current editions of the Explorer were relatively recently updated, with the current 36mm size introduced in 2021 and the 40mm in 2023. 

Thankfully for those of us who have a deep appreciation for vintage watches and heritage releases, not much has changed from the original edition of the Explorer—which actually first came out at the same 36mm size. 

In all, it’s a watch that has remained faithful to its past. No need for vintage reissues here: the Explorer is the real deal and looks pretty much exactly how the original 1953 Explorer would look if it was introduced today.

Case

The Explorer case gets the job done, and it does it in probably the most understated possible way. It’s very simply brushed, creating a utilitarian tool-watch appearance uninterrupted by any polished bevels or flash. 

This case can get beat up by pretty much anything anywhere and, thanks to the brushing, scratches, and divots, won’t be that visible or eye-catching. With brushed satin finishing, I often find that beat-up watches are able to wear their scars as a badge of honor in a way that highly polished watch cases really can’t, as any slight mark on their surface will interrupt their smooth shine.

The case is what Rolex calls their proprietary Oyster case. Originally introduced all the way back in 1926, it enabled Rolex to create the first-ever waterproof wristwatch.

At its core, it involves screwing the bezel and the caseback into place, using the tight seal created by the threads and by rubber gaskets to add water resistance. Today, the Explorer has 100m of water resistance thanks to this, which is more than enough to take it swimming, if not a little diving, without any worries.

As a watch nerd, I love the effect created by contrasting areas of polish on a case or bracelet. I’m a big sucker for that sort of visual contrast, and thankfully, the Explorer provides just that with its mirror-polished bezel atop the brushed case.

It’s a little extra flash and shine that pairs so well with the glossy black dial (more on that later) and really turns this watch into something that you can dress up when you want to.

That spectacular Oyster case construction that I touched on earlier is crafted entirely out of Rolex’s proprietary Oystersteel, a special type of steel in the 904L family.

According to Rolex (personally, I’ve never put one of their watches through its paces, but maybe one day), it’s significantly more corrosion-resistant and has a unique radiance when compared to standard stainless steel

Again, Rolex is all about quality and simplicity. Corrosion resistance and a shinier, more precious-metal-like appearance? I’ll take both, please. The case is simple and fantastic. It gets the job done and protects the watch in a powerful and elegant way.

Dial

With the recent editions of the Explorer, Rolex has slightly altered the dial, with the primary changes being repositioning some text and switching the color from a matte black to a glossy black. 

I’m a huge fan of this change—the text is now in the same configuration as the original Explorer, and the glossy black dial is just so much deeper and more elegant than a matte black could be. It’s the elegant shine of a black silk bow tie—simple and timeless.

Overall, the dial is designed to be as legible as possible. It features numerals at 3, 6, and 9, which are even larger than those in the last edition of the Explorer, as well as square lume plots at the others and a triangle at 12:00.

This layout is so iconic and so legible that it’s been copied on hundreds of watches throughout history. I think I’ll let that speak for itself.

Both the applied indices and the hands are filled with Rolex’s special Chromalight lume, which is a bright white during the day and, when charged by UV light, emits an intensely blue glow at night. 

It’s a relatively recent development, from 2008, and it was updated in 2021 to make it an even more intense and longer-lasting shine.

Essentially, it’s a really high-quality lume that is definitely one of the key factors that will set the Explorer apart from similar but less expensive tool watches which will have vastly inferior lume.

The hands are quintessential Rolex, with the “mercedes” hour hand and simple pointed minute hand. I actually am quite fond of the seconds hand, with its round lume plot and round counterweight.

It’s just so visually and physically balanced and, to me, conveys a lovely sense of precision which is, of course, backed up by the powerful Rolex movement beating away inside.

Along the rehaut, you’ll find the iconic “ROLEX-ROLEX-ROLEX” repeated text engraved into the metal. A bit of a history lesson: all the way back in the 18th century, perhaps starting with Abraham-Louis Breguet, watchmakers were making fine and precision engravings in order to distinguish the quality of their work from that of counterfeiters. 

It’s a lovely way to both add that hefty Rolex branding and, by adding such a delicate and difficult-to-reach engraving, provide a way to authenticate the watch at a glance.

Finally, the printed text is very evenly spaced and balanced, with clean kerning (the space between letters) that shows a lovely attention to detail characteristic of Rolex quality. 

Every element of the whole dial shows a profound perfectionism, which is exactly what you pay for when you buy a Rolex or any other quality luxury watch. It’s legible and sporty but elegant, simple and restrained but refined. I really just can’t find any fault with it.

Movement

For a watch like the Explorer, you desperately need a movement that can take a few knocks in intense environments and keep right on ticking. Rolex has placed their in-house caliber 3230 in this role, which was developed in 2020. 

It’s an automatic movement with a whopping 70-hour power reserve, so if you wear this watch every two days, it’ll always be wound. It’s COSC-certified as a chronometer, and to this, Rolex has added their own certification process, earning it the title of “Superlative Chronometer”, which means it keeps time to within +/- 2 seconds per day.

So how does it stand up to life’s adventures, wherever they may be? The cal. 3230 features all three of Rolex’s recent watchmaking developments: the blued Parachrom hairspring, the Rolex Chronergy escapement, and Paraflex shock absorbers. 

Without getting too into the technical details of each of these, each one definitely brings some major benefits to the power and durability of this watch. The Parachrom hairspring increases the watch’s resistance to magnetic fields and also keeps great time even over a long span of time without regulation. 

It’s also more resistant to breaking than standard hairsprings and silicon hairsprings, which have become the standard for the rest of the industry. The Chronergy escapement is what gives the cal. 3230 such a long power reserve, thanks to a significant increase in efficiency for the movement.

In all, it’s a movement designed to resist whatever life throws at you, especially since it’s safely ensconced within its strong Oyster case. There’s not much else I can say about it—it’s a workhorse time-only beater that will power you through all of life’s explorations.

Straps

The Explorer comes normally on a classic Rolex Oyster bracelet, as if the heritage inspiration couldn’t get any better. Once again, there’s not too much to say here and certainly nothing to nitpick at. The bracelet was first developed in the 1930s, so its design actually precedes the Explorer collection, interestingly enough. 

Rolex has equipped this bracelet with both an Oysterlock folding clasp, which snaps over the buckle to hold it tightly shut and prevent it from coming open, and an Easylink rapid extension system, which can quickly add an extra 5mm to its length via a folding link. 

This latter tool is much more useful than you’d think—your wrist actually fluctuates a little in size throughout the day depending on your level of physical activity and other factors, so the option to quickly pop 5mm onto the length can be actually super convenient.

I would strongly recommend keeping your Explorer permanently on its bracelet. The 36mm version has a 19mm lug width, which is quite difficult to find a good strap for—although the 40mm version is at 20mm, which is much easier. 

That said, both of them are made with slots in the case wall between the lugs to better integrate the end link and make it look like it flows right into the case. This means that without the bracelet, you have those slots revealed, which can be a pretty ugly look from some angles. 

Thankfully, the Oyster bracelet is great, and it’s really not too much of a loss. You can try to put a strap on it if you really want, but like I said, keeping it on the bracelet is probably the best option.

On-Wrist Experience

Rolex Explorer On-Wrist Experience

The Rolex Explorer wears amazingly and has a super unobtrusive presence on the wrist—just like you would expect, considering all the rest of the under-the-radar details we’ve discussed so far.

The 36mm version, in particular, is quite small by modern standards, and its 19mm lug width keeps its wrist presence rigidly restrained. It can definitely take some getting used to its small size, so you might need to give it a little more wrist time to adjust to it. 

Once you do, however, I’ve found that it becomes natural and easy to wear, especially for those of us with smaller wrists. Honestly, 38mm is right around the sweet spot for me, so I don’t mind a 36mm version in the least, especially when it’s the vintage size.

The 40mm option is much larger and feels more modern in its sizing. It definitely doesn’t take over too much, but it’s enough to give it much more of a modern sports watch feel and look, sprawling over the wrist with its larger case size and lug width. 

I’m really fascinated by just how much of a difference the case size can make in the overall appearance of the watch. The 36mm is quiet, elegant, and simple, with a pronounced vintage feel. The 40mm is bold but not over-the-top, sporty, and fresh.

Both are great watches in their own right and completely identical on every other level. But the difference in size is definitely something important to consider when purchasing your Explorer.

It’s a watch that, as I’ve mentioned before, can take anything you throw at it. I’m not exactly the type of guy who wanders around climbing mountains, but you can really just feel a sense of bravery and confidence when you wear the watch. Maybe it’s the Rolex name, maybe it’s the solid build and structure of the case, but it just feels strong. 

In a way, it’s inspirational too. If I ever was going to climb a mountain, I’d wear an Explorer to do it. Maybe Rolex should test to see if some of the cal. 3230’s crazy high power reserve actually runs me, too, along with the hands when I’m wearing it…

Price & Availability

Currently, there are three different Explorer models available on Rolex’s website. There are two editions, all in Oystersteel, the 36mm and the 40mm versions. The 36mm goes for $7,350, and the 40mm is just slightly higher at $7,800. Finally, if you’re looking to really accentuate that elegant glossy black dial, you can spring for a two-tone yellow gold Rolesor model (only at 36mm) for $12,700.

I also want to touch quickly on the current market value of these watches since the gray market may be a better move if you don’t necessarily need it directly from Rolex, and they are, of course, expensive investments. 

The 36mm and the 40mm Oystersteel versions are currently reselling for around their market value, with the 36mm slightly lower and the 40mm slightly higher. The big difference is in the Rolesor model, which has a lower market price of around $9,169. 

Definitely not the watch to pick if you’re planning on reselling it, but that really shouldn’t matter. Pick the watch that you love, and that speaks to you!

Conclusion

Every time I take one of these deep dives into a Rolex collection, I walk away with a newfound appreciation for the simplicity and charm of Rolex’s work, and I hope I’ve conveyed that to you as well here. 

The Explorer marries simplicity, refined elegance, and utilitarian strength in a way that many others have striven to emulate since its inception in 1953. It is, in many ways and for many people, the tool watch. Will it be yours?

rolex gmt master ii vs submariner

Rolex. The name alone is dripping with class and opulence. Their watches have adorned the wrists of hip-hop stars, presidents, prime ministers, and princes. Everyone knows the names of their icons: the Submariner, the Day-date, the GMT-Master, or at least their classic look. The brand’s logo is a crown for a reason.

Rolex had humble beginnings all the way back in 1905, founded in London by a young man named Hans Wilsdorf. Wristwatches at the time were barely starting to take off, and he sought to create small wearable timepieces that were both precise and durable. Precision, wearability, and functionality have always been at the heart of what Rolex does. 

Their Oyster case, introduced in 1926, allowed Wilsdorf to create the first-ever waterproof wristwatch. Rolex didn’t stop there. Inventions came thick and fast through the decades: one of the first automatic movements; a date function displayed through a small window in the dial; the development of special 904L steel; a new hairspring, escapement, and balance wheel design; and so much more. 

Comparing two icons from Rolex is a lot like trying to debate the superiority of Michelangelo’s sculpture of David or his work on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. Each is distinct and yet masterfully crafted.

Such is the case with the Submariner and the GMT-Master II, each of which has carved out a prominent niche in history and in the watch market today. Their functionality is distinct, but their appearance is strikingly similar. 

So which one should you pick, between the two? Whether you’re here for a thought experiment or some practical buying advice, follow along as I break down these two giants of watchmaking and get to the heart of what makes these pieces unique.

The Rolex GMT-Master II Collection

The Rolex GMT-Master II Collection

The Rolex GMT-Master collection was introduced in 1955, so it’ll be celebrating its 70th anniversary this year—making it much older than me and probably most of you reading this. This means it has an extremely long and storied history. It’s been worn by icons like Daniel Craig and Marlon Brando. 

It was originally developed to help Pan-Am pilots as they crossed time zones. That’s an airline that doesn’t even exist anymore, but the watch has lost none of its appeal as it steps effortlessly from the vintage era to the modern. It’s served wearers faithfully for generations and stood the test of time to continue as an icon of the modern era.

Its popularity has led to the creation of several affectionate nicknames for the differently-colored models of the past, such as the immensely popular GMT-Master II “Pepsi” with a bi-colored red and blue bezel which I find really charming. Anyone else suddenly craving a cold soda?

Although the essentials remain the same, the collection spans a wide range of case materials and colors, with some even adorned with copious amounts of diamonds for the blinged-out rappers among Rolex’s clientele (or the inner magpie in each of us…). 

Each one features the Rolex Super case, which has prominent crown guards and thick lugs to create a durable watch with a clean, utilitarian air to it. The case is constructed from Rolex’s “Oystersteel,” which is the 901L steel I mentioned above.

It’s less corrosive and holds a better finish than normal high-grade 316L steel, giving the GMT-Master an extremely elegant appearance that will last for a long time. 

In my opinion, the most attractive part of every GMT-Master II is the accent color that it features, both on the bezel and on the dial, which usually has a pop of color for its GMT hand and for one matching line of text on it.

All these features, the colorful elements as well as the restrained utilitarian case, combine to create a product that’s enjoyed extreme popularity for decades.

Currently, Rolex only offers 9 models in production, and several others have been phased out. Among these are the popular “Sprite” (green and black bezel), “Root Beer” (black and brown), “Batman” (blue and black), “Bruce Wayne” (all black), and an as-yet unnicknamed model with a Pepsi bezel and meteorite dial, among others.

It’s a powerful lineup, with a variety of case materials. All are 40mm in diameter, which is a solid wearable size for most wrists, and at 12.0mm thick, it’s not going to wear like an ungainly block of steel.

Before we leave our analysis of the GMT-Master II, you’re probably wondering where the “II” came from. Of course, it was first released under simply the name “GMT-Master.”

The collection experienced an important evolution in 1985, which led Rolex to introduce the number after its name. (I wonder if their other collections will ever have a change like this… a “Submariner II,” anyone?) 

The key difference here was to make the GMT hand completely independent of the hour hand. Previously, you had to use the GMT hand alongside the rotating 24-hour bezel to track a second timezone. 

Now that the GMT hand is independent, you can track a second time zone with the hand and now use the bezel to track a third at the same time. Otherwise, the watch is the same heritage-inspired beauty, just with an extra boost of functionality that is an objective change for the better.

The Rolex Submariner Collection

Rolex Submariner

If any watch can go toe-to-toe with the GMT-Master II in the heritage battle, it’s the Submariner, which was introduced just one year earlier in 1953. At its release, it was the first-ever watch with 100m of water resistance, and it now can go much further underwater with 300m of water resistance. 

Unlike the GMT-Master II, the Submariner is much more subdued, with a typically black dial and its monochromatic bezel being limited to black, blue, and green. Without a doubt, the most iconic Submariner is the simple black-on-black ref. 124060 or the ref. 126610 with date. 

It’s interesting to see how the basic design of the Submariner is what makes it iconic, rather than the colors of the GMT-Master II, where the “Pepsi” is the best-known model. Overall, it’s clear that the appeal of the series is for its strong utilitarian design and tool-watch focus rather than the slightly elevated flair of the GMT-Master. 

The dive bezel of the Submariner is made of Cerachrom scratch-resistant ceramic, just like the GMT-Master, and instead of the 24-hour scale, it has a graduated timing scale for tracking the length of your dives. 

If you’re like me and you prefer to stay on dry land, its simple design means that you can easily track anything in your day-to-day life. I find it’s a nice way to get the functionality of a chronograph with a much simpler design that doesn’t have to sacrifice water resistance to add pushers.

Like the GMT-Master II, it’s also built around the Rolex Super case, with the same strong crown guards and lugs, but it’s just a hair larger at 41mm and a bit thicker at 12.5mm. All models are the same size, but they do vary in the material used and, as I mentioned before, the color of the bezel. 

Rolex GMT-Master II vs Submariner: How to Choose

Now that we’ve had a formal introduction to each of tonight’s contenders let’s get right into the matchup. Each watch is strikingly similar in a lot of ways. Both feature a rotating bezel and the Rolex Super case. Both are distinctly tool watches and are purpose-built, each for different purposes. 

Both have a long and pronounced heritage and have greatly influenced watch design since their introduction. To be frank, you’d be hard-pressed to find a standard GMT or dive watch that looks very different from these two models, with the exception of a few icons like the Omega Seamaster or the DOXA Sub. Some are even just blatant ripoffs (*cough* Invicta Pro Diver *cough*) 

Both also feature COSC-certified movements with Rolex’s classification of “Superlative Chronometer,” which means they’re actually twice as accurate as standard COSC certification, which is +/- 2 seconds per day.

Each one also has 70 hours of power reserve and an automatic winding movement, so the beating hearts of each of these watches are almost identical, even though they feature different functions and are given different numerical designations.

Okay, so both are very close and very exceptional pieces. Where do we start to separate them? One of the first things that catches my eye between the two is the overall presentation of the watch. While both feature nearly the same case, there are a few clear differences in their appearance. The Submariner has monochromatic bezels in muted colors. Many of the GMT-Master models are flashy, and almost all are bicolored. 

Furthermore, while both feature a flat-link Oyster bracelet, the Submariner has an entirely brushed bracelet, while the GMT-Master has brushed outer links and polished center links. Overall, this combines to set the GMT-Master II apart as a slightly flashier and more elegant watch, while the Submariner is very starkly utilitarian in most of these factors.

Another clear aspect to consider is the difference in intention behind each of these watches. The Submariner was built with a whopping 300m of water resistance and a dive bezel to measure your time underwater. Its bracelet also comes with a sliding Glidelock extension system which makes it easy to slip it over a wetsuit. 

The GMT-Master II, of course, has an independent GMT hand and bidirectional rotating GMT bezel for tracking three time zones. This makes it the perfect companion both for travelers and those who frequently work with others in other time zones. 

Both do have particular applicability to everyday life: the Submariner’s dive bezel can time almost anything under 60 minutes and the GMT-Master II can keep you temporally connected to people far away. It’s just a distinction of which you’d rather have functionally, at this level.

Another key distinction to think about is the investment value of each of these watches. While I personally am not a fan of the idea of buying watches expressly as investments (they were made to be worn and enjoyed, not stuck in a safe!), it is also important to consider whether your watch will increase in value in the event that you need to resell it. 

For this comparison, let’s take a look at the “standard” Submariner (all black, no date) ref. 124060 versus the “standard” GMT-Master II “Bruce Wayne” ref. 126710GRNR.

Both are in steel and have an all-black colorway, so there’s not any distinction except the basic differences for the watches. The retail price of the Submariner is $9,200, while it currently goes for $11,079 on the market right now. 

On the other hand, the GMT-Master II has a slightly higher retail price of $10,800 (no doubt due to its increased functionality and complexity) and a market value of $18,069. Most of the other references that are like these two on either side are relatively close to the same market value, although there is naturally some fluctuation based on the desirability of each color. 

It’s clear that the GMT-Master II is a watch that—at least for the moment—enjoys a lot more popularity on the market, and it currently changes hands for a lot more than its retail. 

While this isn’t in any way a suggestion to buy and immediately resell your Rolex just to make a quick buck (please don’t…), any luxury watch is a big investment, and you should definitely think about its value over time when you go to buy it. In this case, the GMT-Master II has the edge over the Submariner, assuming you can get both at retail. 

So which one should you choose? There’s no clear option that’s categorically correct. Each one serves a different purpose, and offers a different style.

Yes, they’re very similar in a lot of ways. But each one is very distinct when it comes down to the fine details that really come together to make the watch unique. The GMT-Master II offers elevated elegance, with the extra finishing on its bracelet and its flashy colored bezel. 

The Submariner offers a refined, under-the-radar tool watch look that can provide extremely useful everyday functionality thanks to its dive bezel.

The GMT-Master II is, at the moment, more of a value piece thanks to its high market value, but it’s also clear that the Submariner is a steady rock in the market and won’t experience the fluctuation that the GMT-Master could if its popularity wanes. The Submariner has water resistance for swimmers or just bad weather, but the GMT-Master has additional timezones.

In the end, both are spectacular watches. They serve different purposes, and they each contribute to the wonderful world of horology in unique ways. Let’s boil it down to this for those of you who are only satisfied with a straightforward answer. 

If you’re looking for an everyday beater watch that can follow you underwater or take some serious knocks without losing any polish or shine, or for something that will fly under the radar while also giving you strong functionality, the Submariner is the pick for you. 

If you travel frequently, work in other timezones regularly, or are looking for a little extra polish and shine, go with the GMT-Master II.

Conclusion

It’s been a close fight between these two Rolex heavyweights, and in the end, I’m forced to call it a draw. Each is spectacular (“superlative,” to use Rolex’s favorite adjective) in its own way and will be a great pick for whatever your situation might be. 

There’s no clear-cut right or wrong in the world of watches. Wear what you love and what speaks to you. In the end, all I’m here for is recommendations. Your watch is, above all, yours, and only you can make the right choice in the end.

doxa sub 200 review

DOXA Sub 200 Review (Read BEFORE You Buy!)

Marcus Henry

March 20, 2025

Dive watches have been taking the world by storm lately. The iconic level of the Rolex Submariner is hard to match, and others like the Omega Seamaster have found their way onto the wrists of such cultural tour-de-forces as James Bond himself. 

But the prices of these watches can be just as forbidding as they are legendary. DOXA offers the solution: a dive watch at an entry-level price with strong heritage and a fresh style. 

The Sub 200 Professional is, without a doubt, one of the very best dive watches at its price point, if not the best overall. Coupled with that signature bright orange dial (which DOXA calls its “Professional” color), it’s a completely iconic watch that easily could be retailing for $2,000 more than its price.

Not interested? I don’t believe you. So let’s dive right into this spectacular affordable piece. It’s not perfect, but it’s pretty darn good, and I promise you won’t be disappointed with what DOXA has to offer.

History

DOXA Sub 200 History

The DOXA Sub is part of a very long line of craftsmanship and innovation that goes back well beyond many other watch brands. The watchmaker Georges Ducommun founded DOXA in 1889, taking for its name the Greek word for “glory,” and that’s exactly what the fledgling brand would attain with several award-winning watches, such as their 8-day caliber. 

This innovation provided a stunning power reserve to tools such as car dashboard timers that needed to be able to run for a long period of time during endurance races.

The Sub itself was first developed in 1967 with the cooperation of the famous diver Jacques Cousteau, and from the start, it was created to be a powerful dive companion for sports divers. 

The original collection was the Sub 300, with 300m of water resistance (naturally), and it was purpose-built from the ground up as a companion on dives. That characteristic orange dial, which DOXA calls the “Professional,” was designed for maximum legibility underwater, and for this advantage, Cousteau required his entire company of divers to use the Sub 300. 

We should also note that Jacques Cousteau isn’t the only famous underwater explorer to sport a DOXA Sub—notably, the fictional action hero Dirk Pitt, who features in the 20th-century novels of Clive Cussler, is cited on several occasions to make use of his DOXA watch. Cussler himself wore a DOXA religiously, and it still captures the essence of adventure and daring to generations who grew up reading these books.

DOXA would continue to innovate, however, and in 1969 released the first-ever commercially available watch with a helium escape valve, which allows a dive watch to go even deeper, with their Sub 300T Conquistador.

Today, the Sub collection spans a variety of models, including the Sub 200, 200T, 300T, 600T, and 1500T. As DOXA’s flagship model, the 200 is a heritage-focused everyday companion that isn’t quite as built up as some of their more professional divers. 

With “only” 200m of water resistance, it won’t be following you into the bottom of the Mariana Trench, but it can more than handle a bit of rain or a quick swim in the pool, as well as recreational dives. It’s a watch that builds on a strong foundation and executes on its heritage in a remarkably pleasing way.

Case

On paper, the 42mm stainless steel case sounds pretty big, which can justifiably raise some concerns that the Sub 200 is reserved for those of us with larger wrists. Thankfully, it’s rescued by a surprisingly short lug-to-lug at 45mm, which makes it an astonishingly feasible wear for even the small-wristed among us.

The case is almost harshly brushed, creating an instantly utilitarian appearance at even just a first glance. Thankfully for those of us who are looking for an extra touch of class, the Sub 200 also sports polished bevels that are extremely fluid and have a lovely shine, which brings this watch out of the “I’m wearing a hunk of industrial-grade steel” category and places it firmly in the “yes, this is indeed an elegant watch, look at its polish” one. 

Jokes aside, I do find that the bevel contributes a lot to the overall fluidity and unity of the case structure. The juxtaposed polished and brushed surfaces provide some gorgeous visual contrast that’s really hard to find fault with, especially in a category of watches which all too often are simply brushed.

The lugs are extremely interesting and deserve a closer look. On first inspection, they look strongly reminiscent of another extremely iconic watch. Any guesses? Go on, I’ll wait. Yes! They sure are awfully similar to that other twisted lug treasure of watchmaking, the Omega Speedmaster. 

Now before you accuse DOXA of ripping off this iconic design, they actually have a legitimate claim to it: the case looks so similar because the vintage Sub 300 originally did have the same case. 

In both cases (sorry), these were produced by the manufacturer Huguenin Frères, so their similarity is easily permissible. Furthermore, the modern DOXA actually is different from the Speedmaster, although it captures a similar look. The Speedmaster has twisted lugs, physically bent around over each other. 

The Sub 200’s lugs are straight as can be when viewed from the side: what creates the twisted appearance is actually the polished bevel, which sweeps out and around over the surface of the lug. This contributes to a very clean design that has proven time and time again to be immensely popular (just take a look at the iconic “Moonwatch” Speedmaster!) but in a fresh new way that I find incredibly compelling. 

With the bezel, unfortunately, the Sub 200 falls a little flat. While the bezel itself is clean and simple, with a glossy black sapphire insert and orange markers that match the dial, the lume is staggeringly disappointing. Its glow is extremely limited and nearly impossible to see in most lighting conditions. 

For a dive watch, strong lume is absolutely essential for making sure your watch remains visible underwater. Based on my research, the other colorways have a stronger lume in the bezel, so it’s likely that this weakness comes as a result of the pigment mixture needed to match the bezel markers to the orange dial. Regardless, it’s a sad drawback to an otherwise amazing watch. 

Of course, this is far from the end of the world: that orange color will still ensure that the watch remains visible in low-light conditions like underwater, but the limited lume means it will only really glow in near-total darkness after a hefty exposure to sunlight to charge. Don’t even think about going on any night dives with this watch alone.

Looking at the crown and crystal, we’re once more back into the realm of DOXA home runs. The crown is perfectly simple, fluted for easy use, and engraved with the DOXA logo in orange, which honestly just looks really cool. 

The crystal builds tremendously on the vintage inspiration of this Sub 200, as it is constructed in a “box crystal” form so that even though it’s strong sapphire, it looks structurally like vintage plexiglass crystals. This does add some considerable thickness, but you probably weren’t trying to pair your Sub with a shirt cuff anyway. It’s definitely a trade-off worth making for that vintage look.

Dial

As we’ve noted a few times before already, the dial is in DOXA’s signature “Professional” color, the iconic orange tone that was designed by Jacques Cousteau and DOXA to be visible deep underwater. Important to note here, however, is that not all DOXA Professional colors are created equal. 

Fascinatingly, the orange color on the Sub 200 is actually slightly duller than some of their more professionally oriented watches like the Sub 300. Personally, I find this to be a bit of a relief. That orange dial is already eye-catching in the Sub 200, and in this case, “slightly duller” still means practically radioactive orange (anyone else think of Cheeto dust? Or just me?). 

The slightly dulled color makes for an easier everyday wear than the Sub 300, while still getting a color that’s well within the bounds of the signature DOXA style.

The Sub 200 also features a date window, which is not color-matched to the dial. While I lament this missed chance to take this brilliant orange design a step further, I also understand the choice, as the vintage Sub would not have made this match. 

The black frame around the date window is quirky, and I can’t recall any other pieces off the top of my head that feature a similar outline to draw attention to it. It’s a fun detail that I’m fond of.

The text is simple and unobtrusive, thankfully. If you’ve read any of my articles, you know I love to pay attention to typography as a fine detail that can really make or break a watch. In this case, DOXA uses a fantastic simple font, but I am disappointed by the kerning, or spacing, in their logo. 

The D is clearly a little extra spaced out from the other letters, so it looks more like “D OXA.” Is this an extremely small detail? Of course. Is this extremely excusable for a watch of this price point? Absolutely. Should it make or break your opinion on this watch? Definitely not. It’s just one of those small details that catches my eye.

The hands and indices are very simple and utilitarian in nature. The lume, an off-white color, could be met with cries of “fauxtina!” by some critical watch collectors, but I really think it’s just part of the design and not intended to look like aged lume on a vintage watch. Here, I need to mention another gripe I have about the dial: the indices are silver, and the hands are matte black. It’s a color scheme that just seems slightly off for me, and I’m a little frustrated by it. 

It seems like it would have been a simple choice to coat the indices in black too, but I can only assume that there must be a reason for this design decision. I’m perfectly happy with the hands, though, as they’re very broad and carry a lot of bright lume, and greatly accentuate the utilitarian dive nature of the watch. 

But again, with the minute track, the frame around the date window, and the hands all in black, I do wonder why the indices are in gray. It leaves me slightly uncomfortable with the overall balance of the dial, but it’s still a good-looking face to the Sub 200 overall.

Movement

DOXA is relatively quiet about the movement in the Sub 200, stating only on their website that they decorated it themselves, as well as that it’s Swiss-made, has a 38-hour power reserve with automatic winding, and beats at 4.0 Hz. 

These are pretty standard workhorse movement stats, and a quick Google search online reveals that originally the Sub 200 was powered by the ETA 2824-2, a very standard ETA movement. 

Since the stats were removed from DOXA’s website, most collectors concur that they have probably switched to a Sellita SW-200, an ETA clone that’s still Swiss-made and performs about as well as the ETA. 

It’s definitely not the type of movement to blow you away with its complications or performance, but the ETA 2824 and its variations have seen service in significantly more expensive watches than this one. 

It’s a beater movement that can take a serious pounding (I disassembled one, tried to finish it, and put it back together, and it still runs!) and still give you accurate performance for a long time to come. The Sellita is virtually on par with the ETA, at a slightly reduced price.

Unfortunately, you won’t be able to see whatever decoration DOXA has applied (likely an engraved rotor) without consulting your local watchmaker, since they’ve used a solid caseback. 

Thankfully, DOXA applied a lovely engraving to console our sorrows, with a cool wave pattern and their logo to adorn it. Likewise, this is probably a vintage-inspired choice, as the original Sub would have likewise featured a closed caseback.

Straps

The Sub 200 comes with two strap options: an orange rubber strap to match the dial (in either a small or large size, depending on your wrist size) and an extremely elegant beads-of-rice bracelet. I’m sure you can tell where my loyalties lie: I am a huge sucker for steel bracelets, and beads-of-rice designs in particular have a soft spot in my heart. 

They add a healthy dollop of vintage heritage as well as a really beautiful contrast between the mirrored rice beads and the brushed flat links on either end of them. Adding the bracelet is just $40 extra, and that’s a decision I would make any day of the week. Of course, the rubber strap is a solid option too, and it adds a modern touch and a very sporty look as well to the watch. 

Unfortunately, you might be for the most part stuck with whichever option you decide. The Sub 200 has a lug width of 19mm (gross), making it pretty difficult to find quality interchangeable strap options. This decision is rather inexplicable, because the bracelet itself is actually 20mm wide, except that the end link that connects it to the watch is a step down at 19mm. 

I can only assume that this was the result of some sort of design limitation. To be honest, I’m not super upset with it—I’m perfectly happy with the bracelet, thank you very much. But if you were looking for a leather strap changeout, well… I wish you the best of luck.

On-Wrist Experience

DOXA Sub 200 On Wrist Experience

Whether you’re an active diver or just a big fan of desk divers, the Sub 200 is for you. I like to comment that a lot of dive watches are able to follow you from the office to the pool, but the Sub 200 is ready to follow you from the office to the bottom of the ocean, and I really mean that. 

It’s purpose-built from the ground up to be an elegant dive companion in a way that few other watches are. The beads-of-rice bracelet even has a built-in wetsuit extension, so you can easily pop it over a wetsuit and dive right in.

The one place I recommend that this watch doesn’t follow you is any formal occasion: with its protruding caseback and double-domed crystal, it’s not exactly a great playmate with shirt cuffs. Plus, that orange dial won’t work with most suit colors. It’s a no-go for me, with very few exceptions.

It’s a big watch, so it wears a little clunkily due mostly to the thickness and width. As I mentioned before, the lug-to-lug makes it a little easier to pull off, but it’s still tough for those of us with small wrists. 

Average-sized wrists will be able to wear it pretty well, but anyone with a smaller wrist than 6.5” will struggle. But then again, it’s not exactly like you were trying to hide it with that bright orange dial. So wear it proudly, and enjoy the large presence on your wrist. It’s not a watch for the faint of heart.

Price & Availability

The DOXA Sub 200 currently retails for $1,050 on a rubber strap or $1,090 on the beads of rice bracelet. It’s available both from DOXA online or in retail stores or from everyone’s favorite authorized dealer, Exquisite Timepieces. And it’s not a limited edition, but do be sure to get one before they sell out.

Conclusion

There are few watches that can compete with the Sub 200, thanks to its strong vintage heritage, its sleek, utilitarian design, and the few touches of elegance that elevate it above the position of a standard tool watch. 

It has its flaws, to be sure, but for its extremely reduced price compared to its competitors, it’s a really good watch. Whether you’re a dedicated watch aficionado or looking for an everyday pick, it deserves the place of honor on your dresser.

rolex 36 vs 41

Rolex 36 vs 41: Which Size is Right for Your Wrist?

Marcus Henry

March 19, 2025

Rolex is, incontestably, the most popular watch brand in the world, to the point where even talking about their popularity feels like a cliché. One million Rolexes are produced every year, and yet still most of their models have long waiting lists and are impossible to find unless you have a close connection with your local dealer. 

When it comes to picking out a Rolex that speaks to you, it’s hard to go wrong: the Crown offers a very wide variety of rather customizable options, certainly, an advantage of such high production runs.

Perhaps as a consequence of this wide variety of customization options, however, you might find it difficult to choose between the many stellar picks out there. In particular, case size can be a big issue. 

Most people have favorite colors or specific aesthetic draws when it comes to dials or bracelets, but what about case size when these other factors appear to stay the same?

Whether you’re actively picking out your next Datejust or Oyster Perpetual, or just curious about which will prevail in a contest of close competitors, follow along here with my deep dive into the 36mm and 41mm Rolex sizings, and I’m sure you’ll walk away with some newfound insights into design, sizing a watch for your wrist, and the wonderful world of Rolex.

Rolex Datejust 36mm vs 41mm

Rolex Datejust 36

The Rolex Datejust collection has some serious historical backing. It was the first automatic watch with a date wheel, as before, this was usually represented with a pointer on a hand. 

This made the dial more cluttered, and the clearest testament to the advantages of the date wheel is its near-ubiquitous presence in today’s sport watches and even dress watches. Many US presidents and key historical figures have worn the Datejust, such as Winston Churchill, and still more have worn its natural evolution, the Day-Date.

Thanks only in part to its extended heritage, the Datejust plays a major role in Rolex’s catalog today, with dozens of options spanning multiple case sizes, dial designs, and metal content. Among all these options, wearers are consistently faced with one key choice to make: should you opt for a 36mm or 41mm case size?

If only it was as clear-cut as a simple answer—but like everything else in the watch world, this decision comes with some significant nuance. In different situations, either option can be better, so I’m here to help guide you to the right one for your tastes.

The Datejust 36mm is the option, among the two, that greatly prioritizes the watch’s heritage. If you’re the type of person who’s fascinated by the “Moonwatch” history of the Omega Speedmaster, you should really consider going for the 36mm option as far as this Datejust battle goes. 

It’s a historically accurate sizing, making it very much like the watch that Churchill and several presidents would have worn, without the quality worries that can come with a vintage watch.

In terms of its actual size, the 36mm is elegant and discreet. It slips under a cuff with ease, glinting quietly away as if confident in its own quality without needing to be shown off. Taking it around town on some errands? 

It’s small enough that it won’t easily knock around on things, retaining that finished shine much more easily and sparing you a few of those wince-worthy moments when you hit your wrist on a doorknob and just know your crystal has acquired a new scratch.

On the other hand, the Datejust 41 has a much more modern style. 41mm is a very standard size for most modern watches, which will visually break some of those heritage ties and make it look fresher and newer. 

Naturally, it has a larger wrist presence, which can make it a little flashier and a little harder to tuck away under a dress cuff if the need arises. Do note, however, that the Datejust 41 is actually closer to 39.5mm in diameter, and Rolex just rounded up the size to get a better model name. This means it’ll wear a little smaller than your traditional 41mm watch, making it a little more subdued.

Lastly, note that both watches feature the same caliber 3235, so the only difference between them is purely an aesthetic one. In either the 36 or the 41, you’ll be getting the same accuracy and power reserve, so there’s no mechanical advantage to either. You can rest assured knowing that no matter which option you decide on, you’ll have the same quality performance that mechanical Rolexes always provide.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm vs 41mm

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm

If you were staggered by the Datejust’s historical heritage, you’d better take a seat while we explore the Oyster Perpetual. This iconic collection began with the Oyster in 1926 (just long enough for the Cartier Santos-Dumont, the first men’s wristwatch, to have barely graduated college) and featured the eponymous Oyster case. 

This was a patented Rolex invention and was the first waterproof watch ever made, thanks to its monobloc structure (i.e. machined out of one block of steel) and screw-down case back. 

The Oyster then evolved into the Oyster Perpetual collection in 1931, with the invention of Rolex’s automatic winding system, which was one of the first to be introduced into wristwatches. At the time of writing this article, the Oyster will be 100 years old next year. That’s some serious heritage as far as a wristwatch collection goes.

Just like with the Datejust, the 36mm Oyster Perpetual is primarily a heritage-motivated pick, all else being equal. It’s just like some of the first Oyster Perpetuals, which the collecting community affectionately calls “bubblebacks” for their large casebacks accommodating the winding rotor. 

Not much has changed in terms of the design or structure (except now it’s much thinner thanks to the reduced caseback size), so it’s easy to see this watch as a vintage-driven size that references the originals while also improving on them.

Also, just like the Datejust, the Oyster Perpetual 41 actually clocks in at 39.5mm, making it a little smaller and more wearable than you’d expect. The lug-to-lug is pretty extended as well, at 47.35mm versus the 44mm of the 36mm. 

This is reflected in the way the watch spreads out over your wrist, taking up more space and calling more attention to itself. It’s a modern take on a vintage classic and one that executes well while creating a larger profile and contemporary look.

Note as well that, like the Datejusts, both sizes of Oyster Perpetual feature the Rolex caliber 3230, meaning that both will perform exactly the same, and neither will have any advantage over the other in terms of mechanics.

Rolex 36mm vs 41mm – How to Choose

Ultimately, the choice is a hard one, but it can be logically approached by looking at two different factors. The first of these is your wrist size. My colleague Charlotte goes into measuring and analyzing this in-depth in her article here, which you’ll definitely want to check out to help determine which size is better for you. 

Let’s break down what size you might be looking at based on your measurement. At around 6”, a watch of around 36mm or 38mm are both good options, and anything below 6” also fits well with the 34mm-38mm range. 

At the relatively average men’s sizes of 7-7.5”, look for the range of 39-42mm, or a 44mm for the higher end of this spectrum. Lastly, at 8” or larger, shoot for a large watch like a 44 or 46mm. Following this layout, then, if you’re going for a perfect fit above all, go for the 36mm option if your wrist is anywhere up to 6.5”, and go for the 41 if your wrist is anything above that.

Of course, wrist size isn’t the only factor that should motivate your watch purchase. As we discussed above, there are factors like whether you want something that appears more modern or vintage or more or less visible on your wrist. 

Just because your measurement would indicate a “perfect size” doesn’t mean this is always the best option—notably, fashion-conscious actors have been pushing back against this trend, such as Timothée Chalamet wearing the tiny Cartier Tank Mini.

Another factor to note in the battle between these two sizings is the customizable options associated with each. While both sizes have a very wide range of offerings, Rolex does clearly treat the 36mm as a more feminine size, and has more dial options that would typically be considered feminine. 

These include mother-of-pearl and pink colors, as well as several options studded with diamond indices. If you’re looking for a little extra bling or refined flair, the 36mm may be the way to go, thanks to its unique dial styles.

Conclusion

The decision between the Rolex 36mm and 41mm options may not be as contentious as the eternal questions of whether a hot dog is a sandwich or whether or not coffee tastes like dirt (don’t ask my opinion, you’ll probably be offended). 

That said, it’s a decision that does take some thought, and I hope that you’re now equipped to make the right choice for your next Rolex or your next watch purchase, whatever it may be.

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