James Ede, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 5 of 5

Author: James Ede

Rolex vs Tag Heuer

Say you want to compare Rolex with TAG Heuer broadly. It’s easy to write off TAG as no challenge quickly. But you’d be surprised to discover both brands’ equally rich history and influence in the horology world. These two watchmakers currently build watches for watch enthusiasts with different timepiece interests. 

We get into the intricacies of both brands’ watch engines, popularity, and more. At the end of the road, you should have an idea which one of these brands suits you best or edges the other in your preferred category. Of course, there’ll be no Rolex or TAG Heuer slander, so we’ll get started with that rich history we talked about earlier without further ado.

Brand History

Rolex: Innovators From Get-Go

Rolex was established in 1905 by Swiss watch designers Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred David as Alfred and Davis. But here’s a historical plot twist you likely didn’t know: Rolex was based in London but moved down to Geneva because of high taxes on luxury products post World War I. As a result, they weren’t widely recognized as Rolex for nearly two decades when they were renamed to Rolex SA. Although their timepieces were already branded Rolex three years into the business.

But that’s enough brand name and chronological history class. Let’s talk patents and groundbreaking horology. Rolex released several never-before-seen complications and watches that transcend collector and enthusiast circles. They unveiled the first ever certified chronograph – the Daytona – only after five years in business.

Rolex released the first water-resistant watch ( the Oyster), the first self-winding watch (Oyster Perpetual), the first date and time watch (DateJust), and the first multiple time zone watch (GMT Master) within 50 years of business. Astonishingly, Rolex still produces most of these evergreen watches, which speaks volumes.

TAG Heuer: Trailblazers from The Genesis

A glimpse into Rolex history proves hard to top, but TAG Heuer (or Heuer) isn’t far off. They were founded in 1860 – five decades before Rolex – and originally named Heuer AG. It wasn’t until 1985 – during the quartz crisis –– that they were acquired by Techniques d’Avante Garde (TAG Group) and called TAG Heuer. They’re based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. 

Before the 1985 takeover, Heuer released the first-ever dashboard chronograph, called Time of Trip, in 1958. And over a century ago, they patented the “oscillating pinion,” that we use in watches today. And in 1916, Charles-Auguste – the founder’s son – introduced the first ever stopwatch accurate to 1/100 of a second, The Mikrograph. 

Surprisingly, Heuer only released their first wrist chronograph in 1914, so you can imagine they were trying to keep up with the competition, Rolex, for example. However, unlike Rolex, which still sells the line of iconic watches from its early days, TAG’s most iconic timepieces, like the Carrera and Monaco, are only later models. So it’s only logical to say that Rolexes have a richer history than any Heuer watch.

Brand Popularity

What if you had to compare brand popularity? Rolex would be the obvious winner based on the numbers. Enough data shows that Rolex is the #1 watchmaker in Switzerland and the world, while TAG Heuer is a distant #12 Swiss and #50 in world rankings. Despite this gap, TAG Heuer is a world-class watchmaker that you can’t write off as a luxury brand. Here’s a glimpse at both brands’ influence.

Rolex

3 Rolex watches on display

In reality, Rolex has gone beyond popularity as a watchmaker. Instead, they are researchers, innovators, explorers, and an awards laureate, in addition to their countless partnerships with business, arts, and sports legends. 

As you already know, Rolex released many world’s first watches and movements in their early years. And they’ve publicized the strengths and capabilities of their timepieces boldly in scientific explorations and media. For instance, the Deep Sea Challenge was on both trips to the ocean’s deepest depths. And we’ve seen James Bond wear a Rolex Submariner or Chronograph, though not as much as an Omega Seamaster Ocean. But you get the drift. Rolex has and still is everywhere that matters, from pop culture to sports, to politics to space travel. 

Although Rolex has millions of filthy rich “fanboys,” they have only 20 official brand ambassadors. Some of them are the recently retired 20x Grand Slam winner Roger Federer, Formula One icon Jackie Stewart, NBA hall of Famer Dwayne Wade, and his celebrated actress, activist, and wife, Gabrielle Union. 

And in recent decades, the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sold for $17.8 million at an auction, which had trickle-down effects on the brand’s popularity. Not only was Rolex on every watch enthusiast’s screen, but the general public. With this kind of influence, Rolex could stop marketing and still break profit, maybe even better. 

“Every Rolex tells a story.”

TAG Heuer

Tag Heuer Carrera Red

As a brand established in the 19th century, we know TAG has a rich history. And currently, as a brand under Louis Vuitton (LVMH), they’ve got some popularity too. But the journey to this point started when they supplied the automobile, aviation, and sailing industries with dashboard timers.

Then things kicked off extraordinarily for them in car racing from the 70s to the 90s, with help from TAG. Techniques d’Avant Garde – TAG Heuer’s parent company at the time – were co-owners of McClaren, who sponsored Williams Racing in Formula One. 

Considering the long list of A-Listers who’ve pulled off a TAG Heuer as a dress watch, they’re a celebrity favorite. For example, we saw Timothy Dalton pull off a TAG Heuer Night Dive – rather briefly – in 1987’s Agent 007, The Living Daylights. Also, Men In Black and Fresh Prince of Bel-Air actor Will Smith almost always sports a TAG Heuer Monaco. 

Many Rolex fanboys were also former TAG ambassadors like Tiger Woods, Roger Federer, Brad Pitt, and Leonardo DiCaprio, just to mention a few former ambassadors. Currently, TAG Heuer has Naomi Osaka, the 4x Grand Slam champion, Ryan Gosling from The Gray Man, and Patrick Dempsey as its official ambassadors.

And not to forget the influence of legendary race and film star Steve McQueen on TAG watches. TAG Heuer’s slogan is “Don’t Crack Under Pressure,” and they surely don’t, even with Rolex as a competitor.

Rolex vs. TAG Heuer: Brand Partnerships

As you probably know, this guide will be incomplete without comparing the partnership deals of these behemoth watch designers. How do they get the name out outside the watch industry? 

I’ll start with the name you’ve likely seen plastered on a race car, TAG Heuer. This brand has been a frontrunner in the automobile industry since the 1900s, especially after releasing its Autavia dashboard clock. They partnered with Formula 1 in 1980 ( and they weren’t untouched by the Quartz crisis). 

Rolex seems out of the league of TAG Heuer (or any watchmaker, for that matter) when you consider partnerships. They’re official timers for the most exclusive cabal of sports promotions and multinational corporations.

When you put that up against TAG Heuer’s most influential partnership being the official timekeeper of Formula 1, it’s totaling. But it’s a sublime collab that enshrines Heuer’s long history with car racing timepieces. And Rolex is more or less the apex luxury piece everyone aspires to wear when they become rich.

Brand Technology

Again, Rolex would outshine TAG when considering the tech for their movements, cases, and bracelets. Some of their least expensive lines are almost twice the cost of a Carrera (one of TAG’s high-end watches), so it’s unsurprising.

An Oyster Perpetual Date, Rolex’s entry-level watch costs around $3000 to $6000, while a TAG Autavia or Monaco starts from about $3,000. So comparing their tech is only about finding basic horology features like temperature resistance and anti-magnetic protection (for mechanical watches). Traditionally, Rolex has a watch line that handles each of these features. 

The Rolex Milgauss, for instance, has magnetic protection of 1 gauss – which is overkill even in enthusiasts’ circles except for a handful of scientists and big-time collectors. So while TAG Heuer can’t match that spec in their watch lines, they can take on more magnetism than the average wearer will ever handle.

In a way, this is why Rolex stands out, aside from the fact that their watches mostly have precious metal finishing. Furthermore, Rolex has a complete educational website dedicated to watching explorations, arts, and awards. What you’ll get from TAG is mostly a list of partnerships and limited edition watches. With these few points, it’s safe to say they don’t stand a chance against Rolex.

But TAG Heuer can be considered better evolved technologically because they invest in classy smartwatches and NFTs. Meanwhile, Rolex has stuck to mechanical watches (good in horology) for over a century. For instance, the TAG Heuer Connected is a chronograph-style smartwatch that combines tech similar to an Apple Watch with elegant steel finishing and displays NFTs. That’s the height of modern technology you’ll see from any luxury watch.

Accuracy

Accuracy is rarely contemplated except by the most passionate enthusiasts, but it’s worth mentioning. A watch is accurate by how fast it works when synchronized to Coordinated Universal Time (UTC). For example, it could be 2 seconds fast or –4 seconds slower than UTC. 

One more thing is rate stability. This is how accurate the watch measures over a while, and it’s equally, if not the most crucial feature to test a watch’s accuracy. And how do Rolex and TAG Heuer watches compare after a month, year, or five years? Well, if you consider the fact that TAG Heuer produces quartz movements – the world’s most accurate timekeeper – and Rolex only makes mechanical movements, TAG is the clear winner. 

On the mechanical movement playing ground, you’ll quickly see Rolex’s unfair advanTAGe. And even TAG Heuer acknowledges it. While we can’t accurately quantify how accurate Rolex watches are (every watch varies how it’s used), they’re certified by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), which certifies a chronograph to be accurate between –4 and +6 seconds a day.

From a traditional horology standpoint, it can’t get any better than this. But Rolex goes even further with an in-house test that certifies their watches as Superlative Chronometers that keep time to -2/+2 seconds a day. 

TAG Heuer, on the other hand, can’t afford the fancy certifications and R&D teams, which they’ve admitted helps them to keep costs down. In fact, they claimed that their watches are as accurate as any COSC-certified model, which makes sense.

We aren’t sure of the costs to obtain a certification, but it’s much easier for Rolex to incorporate COSC certificates and research spending in their pricing. So if it makes sense, you can get a TAG Heuer that’s just as accurate as a Rolex, even if it’s $4,000 cheaper. But Rolex is officially the better timekeeper.

Comparable TAG Heuer and Rolex Watches

The Rolex Submariner and the TAG Heuer Aquaracer are iconic dive watches critics and enthusiasts have compared. We’ll have a brief look at the features of both timepieces for an insight into how they build their watches. 

The most obvious place to start is how deep they can go underwater. Here, the Aquaracer wins, capable of depths up to 500m, while the Rolex has 300m water resistance. But the Submariner trumps the Aquaracer with luminescence in the dark, higher resale value, and a robust build from its stainless steel and precious metal strap options.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer is mainly only sold in rubber straps, stainless steel, and bands like NATO fabric. However, they have many more dial and case options than the Rolex. On average, an entry-level Rolex Submariner costs around $8,000, while an Aquaracer could sell for around $2000.

Ultimately, you’ll find that unless you’re scuba diving into the Mariana trench, you can thrash either watch in water, and they’ll be perfectly alright. But the Submariner is a more valuable piece (although there are also a few priced limited edition. Aquaracers) 

Some Other possible Comparable Rolex and TAG Heuer Watches

Dress Watches

Oyster Perpetual vs. Link or Carrera Monaco

Chronographs

Day-Date vs. Monaco or Autavia

Dive Watch

Submariner vs. Aquaracer

Racing Watch

Rolex Daytona vs. Formula 1 or Aquaracer Professional

Resale Value

Rolex is the king of resale value when it comes to luxury watches. Not just because they’re more expensive but also the brand name. And TAG Heuer isn’t beating that today. But resale value generally depends on the condition of the watch, casing, warranty, or status of the previous owner.

And they’ll factor in what you can get for a Rolex or TAG if you want to sell them pre-owned. But you have a better chance of getting close to what you spent on a Rolex than a TAG Heuer watch

Warranty

TAG Heuer offers the industry-standard 2-year warranty period. But Rolex watches come with a 5-year warranty (a policy they started in 2015), but it is now a norm in ultra-luxury brand circles. While Rolex has a more extended warranty, both have excellent after-sale service in the US, so that won’t be an issue.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is TAG Heuer Related to Rolex?

No. TAG Heuer is not in any way related to Rolex other than the fact that they’re both swiss watchmakers.

Is There Any Better Watchmaker Than Rolex?

It’s hard to say as opinions vary, depending on watch type and price points. But some of the few luxury watchmakers touted to make better watches than Rolex are A.Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Philippe Patek, and Audemars Piguet. However, Rolex still has the best price value of any other watchmaker.

Would TAG Heuer Be Considered A “Luxury” Brand?

Absolutely. TAG Heuer is a Swiss luxury watch brand established in the 1800s.

Final Thoughts

While choosing between a Rolex and TAG Heuer all comes down to preference and budget, we can’t deny that Rolex is the better brand in this comparison. TAG Heuer is a world-class watchmaker, but Rolex plays on a different level. 

You can’t go wrong with either if you’re interested in a famous luxury watchmaker. Rolex timepieces tell a story with robust cases and mindblowing complications, while TAG Heuer offers timeless and precise watches that turn heads just as much. 

Rolex Datejust 28 vs 31

The Rolex Datejust is a classic and elegant dress watch. A timeless collection we’ve seen icons from Paul Newman, Harrison Ford, to Roger Federer in recent times adorn. But also a favorite among watch lovers enthusiasts, and watch collector. A timeless piece that’s also Rolex’s best-selling and most extensive collection. 

The Datejust collections offer four different sizes – three men/unisex cases (31, 36, and 41mm) and one women’s case in 28mm called the Lady-Datejust. And we’ll compare 31mm and 28mm watches today. In this article, we compare the smallest line of the Datejust collection with the following 31mm to see if they’re only different-sized or one has better specs and features.

The Lady-Datejust 28mm – A Classic Rolex Feminine Watch

Datejust 28mm

Rolex introduced the Lady Datejust model in 1957, over a decade after releasing the bigger men’s version in 1945. It’s a classic combining the admirable style and powerful workings of the early watches in a 28mm case.  

The Lady-Datejust – a selection in the famous Oyster Perpetual line – is unsurpisining one of Rolex’s few recently updated watch models. What’s more is that it has a unisex appeal since it keeps the orignal designs, so men who prefer smaller dials opt in for Lady-Datejust.

And it has 5mm extension link on its Oyster bracelets for practical and comfortable adornment on larger wrists. And that’s only one type of bracelet, the Lady-Datejust line carries a myriad of precious metal bracelets, diamond-engraved cases dial colors.

The Rolex Datejust 31mm – A Mid-Sized Datejust

Datejust 31mm

The Datejust 31mm was the first self-winding waterproof chronometer to display date on the 3 o’clock dial. Since its1945 release, the Datejust 31mm has survived decades of competition and fierce knockoffs, and maintained its trademark aesthetic. It’s the Rolex many non watch enthusiasts admire first before starting a collection. 

More recently, Rolex debuted two Rolex Datejust 31mm variants at Baselworld 2019, One’s a yellow Rolesor version (Oystersteel and 18 carats of yellow gold), and the other, an Everose Rolesor (Oystersteel and 18 carats of everose gold). Since unveiling these two variants of the Datejust 31mm, the Everose gold design has been the best-selling. This article will reveal the prices of the Rolex Lady Datejust 31mm. 

The first set of the Datejust 31mm line had olive green, Sunray-finish dial with 18-carat yellow gold hands and Roman numbers with a “VI” made out of 11 diamonds. The second pair featured a Rose-color, Sunray-finish with hands and Roman numeral design in 18-carat pink gold.

Datejust 28mm Vs Datejust 31mm Design and Features

Although the first Rolex Datejust was available only in yellow gold, the collection of Rolex Datejust has diversified significantly to different models, some of which are the Datejust 28mm and 31mm. Currently, the Lady Datejust 28mm is one of the smallest sizes of the Rolex models in production and has some fantastic designs and styles. 

Lady-Datejust is categorized officially as a women’s watch but is in fact unisex, just like the 31mm Datejust watches. Here is a comparison of their design and features.

Materials and Designs

The Lady Datejust 28mm Rolex watch is highly favorable among the women of the 21st century because of its ability to strike a rich status. It can be used in different functions such as boardroom or ballroom. A beautiful example of its similar nature with bigger Datejust is Yellow Rolesor Lady-Datejust 28mm in Yellow Rolesor combined with Oystersteel and 18-carat yellow gold will be used as an example.

Steel And Precious Metal Embellishments

Oystersteel is considered a durable, lighter,  and cheaper metal than gold. And gold is a heavier but precious metal. Rolex combines both metals in the watch for a mix of functionality and luxury that’s suitable for daily wearers. They call it, the Rolesor, which is a combination of gold and steel. This is why Rolex watchmakers have used these metals (Oystersteel and Gold) in their watches since the 1930s.

The use of the two metals was referred to as Rolesor, which connotes using gold and steel, along with their contrasting colors and radiance, to produce a single Rolex watch. Enthusiasts and fans love its combination of wealth and functionality, and is the Oyster collection’s top seller. Both 31mm and 28mm Oyster Yellow Rolesors have identical steel and gold and similar price ranges.

Iconic Cyclops Lens – Date Magnifying Glass

Word around enthusiast circles is that Rolexes are the “old man’s watch.” This isn’t because Rolex are old-fashioned or affordable to seniors, but because of their trademark cyclops lens. It’s a magnifying lens that zooms in the date display closer than most other watchmakers.

But the joke is that Rolex does this so older folks would find it easier to read the date. The cyclops lens on the men and ladies Datejust is a sapphire crystal glass dome.

Link Pieces (Jubilee Bracelet for ref)

The five-piece link metal Jubilee bracelet was first designed in 1945. So it came with the orginal Datejust watches, which 31mm Datejusts fall into. Despite being over seventy years old, the jubilee bracelet remains in style.

The net-like links are dressy and comfortable enough to wear as a tool watch or sports watchs thanks to its concealed clasp. And Lady-Datejusts use the same iconic jubilee bracelets as Al Pacino’s Rolesor in Scarface.

Gold Carat Hour Markers

The hands and hour markers on the dial of both Datejusts are made from 18 carat gold, which is invincible to time. And in some designs, all the hour markers – except the 12 o’clock – are diamonds set by hand, adding a touch of luxury to the indestructible build of the steel and gold versions.

Water Resistance

Both Datejust 28mm and 31mm are water resistant for dives up to 100 meters or 330 feet. Rolex designed the Oyster Perpetual Datejust with a befitting waterproof Oyster case and an airproof twin-lock crown. There’s a saying that “Whatever you can handle, your Rolex can handle.”

And the Datejust watches are no different whether you wear them in the local pool or to explore the North pole. As long as you rinse off sea water with freshwater both sizes offer capable and equal water resistance for any water.

Impenetrable Screw Down

If you’ve ever tried or intend to open the caseback of a Rolex to see their revered movements, you’ll be disappointed, because they’re impenetrable. The case back is locked in with a solid screw-down flutings. Only certified Rolex watchmakers and maybe some experienced horologists and such get to see the beauty that lies within any Rolex.

Date Display

Datejust display date at 3 o’clock,  which was a groundbreaker during its release (it’s common now, but used to be one of a kind). What’s special about the Rolex though, is switches to a new day – number –  automatically at midnight instead of rolling over slowly. And with a quickset, you can set the date independently of the time settings.

Dial

Rolex Datejusts have a sterling collection of dial colors, from black to green, and specials like the slate-grey Wimbledon dial. And as an example, the Dial of this model presents four white Rolesor versions, which include the combination of Oystersteel and 18-carat white gold.

It is the first watch to feature a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 46; it also has an aubergine, sunray-finish Dial that is fashioned with hand-set diamonds on the Roman numeral VI.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 28mm and 31mm

Both Datejusts have an engraving of Oyster Perpetual on their dials. Oyster is rolex’s first water resistant wristwatch case and “Perpetual” is a metaphor for Rolex’s non-stop winding watch movements. And this is only an homage to Rolex’s greatest early achievements. 

All Datejust 28mm and 31mm movements are produced and assembled in-house by certified Rolex watchmakers. The newer Datejusts use a 2014 calibre that was introduced to the line in 2018. Datejust 28mm and 31mm use calibres within the range 2135-2236, depending on the reference being created.

With the production of this perpetual calibre masterpiece, Rolex had to file several patents to preserve this exquisite self-winding mechanical movement. The perpetual Calibre also provided excellent performance as regards precision, convenience, reliability, power reserve, resistance to shocks, and magnetic fields. The perpetual Calibre is fitted with a patent Rolex Syloxi hairspring.

It has ten times accuracy than an ordinary hairspring confronted with shocks. Datejust movements are also embedded in non-magnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheels. The winding system is fitttend with trademark Paraflex shock absorbers, for increased accuracy under daily movements. The both have a power reserve of 55 hours and chronometer certification for high accuracy that’s signified with a green seal in the box.

Resale Value

A Rolex Datejust 31mm does hold value. But at times, the fair market value of a Rolex Datejust may be less (most likely) or more than (if you’re a celebrity, icon, or went through an experience with watch) the purchase of the watch. But there’s a good slim chance both watches  could also increase in value.

For instance, the price of a steel bracelet Rolex Datejust 31mm with green dial is around $8,000, but some dealers sell pre-owned models as high as $9,000. That’s the height of resale value in the watchworld, and there’s hardly a difference between the 31mm and the ladies’ datejust pricing. Aside from status, the condition of your watch always determines resale value, but you can bet you’ll get a good return for a Rolex than any other watch.

Unisex Appeal

The Rolex Datejust 31mm watch was created for the women’s market, even though the Lady Datejust label isn’t inscribed, like the Datejust 28mm Rolex watch. According to a Rolex advertising campaign, the 31mm Rolex watch is more like a man’s watch women prefer to wear. So, it’s a Rolex that men and women can wear. 

But which one would be befitting for your wife or a female benefactor? It’s clearly the woman’s choice because there are no special lady features in the Lady-Datejust. Still, because of its smaller watch face, it’s considered a ladies watch and would be perfect for any woman who isn’t a watch enthusiast with a preference.

It’s compact, but radiates luxury, power, and functionality of any Rolex. Men with smaller wrists or interest in a conspicuous luxury timepiece can wear the 28mm and women with bigger wrists can go for the 31mm Datejust.

Price

As with all luxury watchmakers, price varies with materials, case size, bracelets, reference, and with the Datejust, even dial color. The Rolex Lady-Datejust is available in different versions, but broadly three bracelets – Oystersteel, Jubilee, and President steel bracelets. It could cost as low $6,000 for a basic and plain steel version and up to $60,000 for the Rolex Lady President with diamonds. 

And you could be lucky to find amazing pre-owned deal on a gold ladies’ Datejust watch for approximately $10,000, which is less than half the retail price. For the Rolex Datejust 31mm, the story remains the same. The variation you pick is what determines actual price, however, an entry level stainless steel 31 Datejust costs around $7,000.

And could cost as high as 15,000 for its equivalent with a two-tone (Rolesor) design.  Ultimately you can get a classy 28mm or 31mm Oyster Perpetual watch for between $6000 – $15,000. Whether that budget gets you a pre-owned or new watch boils down to your preference.

Frequently Asked Questions

When Did Rolex Come Out With 28mm?

The refined glamourous classic feminine watch was created in 1945 but was revealed in 1957. The Lady Datejust 28mm is known for its style, technical operation, and timeless elegance and functionality, which has evolved this design into the recently released 28mm model.

What’s the Difference Between Lady Datejust 28mm and Datejust Lady?

Depending on the design you buy, the materials used to create them are somewhat the same. The significant difference between Datejust 28mm and 31mm is the face size of the watch. So, a smaller wrist individual will use a Datejust 28mm, while a middle size wrist will use a Datejust 31mm.

Why Should You Buy a Rolex Datejust?

The Rolex Datejust is a popular model in the brand’s catalog, which explains why demands are always high, and prices are increasing steadily. Here are a few reasons to buy a Rolex Datejust:
-A wide range of design options
-Automatic in-house calibre with a date display
-Timeless and iconic dress watch
-Certified chronometer

Datejust 28mm or 31mm

So, there you have it. The Rolex 28mm or Lady-Datejust is a small-faced Datejust and the 31mm is a mid-sized Datejust. Nothing’s changed in the features of the small one despite having being introduced tweleve years after the latter. 

Anyone can wear the Lady-Datejust even though it’s marketed as a women’s watch. It even has an extension link to cushion bigger wrists. It has almost as many variations variations as the 31mm and both have the recognizable Oyster case aesthetic.

Hopefully, this article shows you which Datejust size is better for you. And if you are shopping, you can check out our new and pre-owned Datejust collections in the store.

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