James Ede, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 4 of 5

Author: James Ede

best gucci dive watches

Gucci is a luxury fashion house front runner in pop culture, known for its stylish contemporary designs and iconic logo. Their watches are no exception if you’re looking for fashionable luxury dive watches, and surprisingly on an affordable budget. 

The Gucci Dive collection models are also functional. They are designed to withstand underwater exploration with durable and eco-friendly materials, water resistance, and luminous parts – and in style.

This guide will look at the top 10 Gucci dive watches available today. We’ve also included a range of styles and features to suit different preferences and needs. From classic designs to socially-acceptable bio-based models, these watches offer something for everyone.

As a plus, we’ve included a short history of Gucci dive watches and a brief overview of the collection. You’ll surely find a Gucci that suits your style and budget. Let’s dive in and explore the 10 Best Gucci Dive Watches.

Classic and Eco-Based Gucci Dive Watches

The Gucci Dive Watch is the star luxury watchmaker’s collection of sporty timepieces with classic and contemporary styles. They each have a water resistance of 200 meters (660 feet), making them suitable for aquatic sports like swimming, snorkeling, and water sports. These watches are relatively affordable as they fall under $2,000.

Gucci Dive Watches come in two major designs: bio-based and classic. The bio-based designs were launched as part of Gucci’s efforts to reduce their environmental impact. These divers used sustainable materials like rubber, fabric, and steel straps. 

In addition, authentic classic Gucci dive watches carry stunning dials – with the brand’s symbolic heads – snake, bee, or tiger, luminous hands and indexes, a date indicator, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and solid case backs. The hands have an elegant movement across the dial, thanks to the Swiss Quartz movement they run on.

The Bio-based designs are similar except for a skeleton dial design and open case back. Gucci did a pretty good job of making open case backs look good on a quartz movement. Remember, they are made of eco-friendly and biodegradable materials, such as bio-based plastic and recycled steel.

History Of Gucci Dive Watches

For decades, Gucci, an Italian high-end fashion brand, has established itself as a reputable designer. Riding on this reputation, the brand ventured into the watchmaking business in 1972. However, it only thrived as a watchmaker once it collaborated with Swiss engineers in the 1990s.

The Gucci Dive watch was first introduced in 2013 as a limited edition wristwatch powered by a Girard-Perregaux movement. The limited edition was high-priced and sold for around $8,600. In 2015, the company, as a pre-BaselWorld introduction, added the Dive line permanently to its watch collection after it attracted the interest of collectors and watch buffs. This time, however, it was easily accessible and affordable.

The Best Gucci Dive Watches

1. Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Black Dial Rubber Strap (Style ‎633001 I16X0 1000)

Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Black Dial Rubber Strap (Style ‎633001 I16X0 1000)

First on our list is the Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Black Dial Rubber Strap (Style ‎633001 I16X0 1000). 

It’s a classic black diver with an elegant design to brave waves and occasions. The watch features a black stainless steel case with PVD coating, a matte black dial, Rolex-like indexes, and a big date at 6.

Its black rubber strap is a masterpiece for a sporty watch, providing comfort and durability. But the Gucci engraving across the band transforms it into a luxury everyday watch. It’s adjustable between 140mm to 200mm to fit small and larger wrist sizes. 

Further, this Gucci dive watch has an artistic connection between the lugs and strap. The strap has metal ends that connect to the lugs in a simple but sophisticated interlocking. Plus, its oversized clasp with Gucci engraving adds a luxurious touch to the watch. The watch is sensationally water resistant to 200 meters with a screw-down crown and quartz movement.

Starts from approximately: $1,600

2. Gucci Dive Watch 40mm Silver Dial Steel Bracelet (Style 663937 I1600 1108, also available on a white rubber strap)

Gucci Dive Watch 40mm Silver Dial Steel Bracelet (Style 663937 I1600 1108, also available on a white rubber strap)

Well, here’s another classic watch in the Gucci Dive line. It’s a fancy dive watch with an impressive silver dial and a stylish link bracelet. It’s an astonishing dial with a guilloche-type finish and multi-icon indexes. 

The renowned Bee icon, which signifies love and community, sits at 12 o’clock and on the case back. Then a vibrant mix of stars, circles, triangles, and a date indicator at 6 o’clock comes to life in the dark. 

The bracelet is made of durable steel with a polished finish that highlights the contemporary design of the watch. It adjusts 110mm to 195mm, perfect for wrist sizes under 8 inches. The unidirectional rotating bezel is both adds functional and stylish. It’s numbered in 5-minute increments to 60 minutes with bolder fonts at the four cardinal hours.

A scratch-resistant sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating is included in the 40mm case for enhanced protection. The case is also water-resistant and can withstand a depth of 660 feet.

This watch also has a white rubber strap add-on but with a different reference number (Style ‎663938 I16X0 8526). It has the same features as the steel bracelet model except for a white rubber strap and a more limited adjustment range of (150mm to 195mm).

Starts from approximately: $1,600 (note that the white rubber strap version of the watch goes for $1,450)

3. Gucci Dive Watch Bio-Based 40mm White Transparent (Style 704332 I16H0 9880)

Gucci Dive Watch Bio-Based 40mm White Transparent (Style 704332 I16H0 9880)

A relatively affordable eco-friendly dive watch with an open case back, who can say no to that?  Well, this is definitely one Gucci Dive model that you do not want to say no to, especially if you are an environmentalist. It is the perfect accessory for anyone who wants to make a statement while positively impacting the planet. 

Its 40mm case is made of steel and bio-based plastic. The biodegradable rubber strap has a unique translucent aesthetic and a bold silver Gucci-embossed butterfly clasp. Aside from its eco-friendly appeal, the watch is a testament to beautiful horology.

The skeleton dial with shapely index icons and open case back shows an attention to detail in craftsmanship. This Gucci Dive watch has an icy aura that will turn heads – at 40mm; you can rock it under a suit and stay dapper. 

Starts from approximately: $1,850

4. Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Black Dial Silver Snake (Style 559810 I1600 1402)

Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Black Dial Silver Snake (Style 559810 I1600 1402)

The Gucci Snake is a symbol of luxury, fashion, and style in pop culture. Dive Watch 45mm Dial Silver Snake model on your wrist speaks this truth. 

The snake motif slithers through the dial over the dial and rests its head beneath the iconic Gucci logo at 13 o’clock. It’s the symbolic icon of Gucci’s House: the Kingsnake. But framed with a 45mm case, edgy lug-to-lug, oversized screw-down crown, and a colored bezel, it’s a sporty luxury watch.

That’s not all. The steel bracelet is classy and graceful, and very comfortable to wear. It is designed with room for adjustment from 146mm to 221mm.

The Gucci Dive Style 559810 I1600 1402 watch sports an anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass and highly legible round indexes like other classic Dive designs. And as expected, it is water resistant for up to 20 meters, and it features the precision and reliability of the Swiss Quartz movement.

Starts from approximately: $1,700

5. Gucci Dive Watch 40mm Green Dial Nylon Strap (Style ‎663954 I18M0 6421)

Gucci Dive Watch 40mm Green Dial Nylon Strap (Style ‎663954 I18M0 6421)

If you want a contemporary designer watch that stands out in the crowd, this Gucci Dive Watch Style ‎663954 I18M0 6421 does it remarkably. It’s logo-clad from the dial to the case, bezel, and strap down to the crown in the Italian designer’s popular green and red.

A striking green dial adds a touch of personality but is particularly beautified with the bee and star indexes. Also, its red and green nylon strap complements the unidirectional bezel of the same color. 

Wearing for extended periods for wrists sizes between 150mm to 200mm is comfortable. As part of Gucci’s efforts to reduce the environmental footprint of designer houses, the nylon strap is constructed from ECONYL, recycled polyester from waste materials like fishing nets.

Essentially, it’s not a barrage of colors but an artistically put-together Gucci designer watch with quartz movement. At its finest, this watch is a uniform for a Gucci fanboy and has the appeal of a luxury water sports watch.

Starts from approximately: €1,250

6. Gucci Dive Watch Bio-Based 40mm Aquamarine (Style ‎704337 I16H0 4009)

Gucci Dive Watch Bio-Based 40mm Aquamarine (Style ‎704337 I16H0 4009)

This is another one of Gucci’s colorful bio-based Dive models with an open case back and a skeleton dial. This means you can see the movements, oscillating weights, and discs front and back. 

This eco-friendly model has a blend of steel and aquamarine plastic case and a green aquamarine plastic strap. The material is produced from the same components sea shells are made from. 

As with the other Dive watches, it’s emblematic and comfortable for sweaty or water activities. The strap also adjusts from 150mm to 200mm, and the 40mm case gives you versatility as it can fit under arm cuffs comfortably for a dressy pairing. 

The Gucci Dive Aquamarine should be a staple in you have a daring fashion sense that combines bold colors.

Starts from approximately: £1,650

7. Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Yellow Gold Snake (Style ‎559817 I8610 8757)

Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Yellow Gold Snake (Style ‎559817 I8610 8757)

The Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Yellow Gold Snake (Style ‎559817 I8610 8757) is the watch you watch when you want to make a statement – and boy, does it make a statement. 

The snake motif from Gucci’s House Kingsnake is covered in yellow gold, as well as the PVD case. Its black dial also joins the party with yellow gold applied hands and indexes with golden egg – Gucci GG logo – at 12 o’clock. 

Its golden case and clasp accentuate the brand-name embossed rubber strap for a sporty but classy look. It’s more suitable for casual and semi-formal wear because of its 45mm case and large bezel. But it will slay under large coat cuffs or dressy outfits.

The Gucci Yellow Snake is one of the most affordable gold-plated timepieces from a major luxury brand. It’s not flashy, but it sure emphasizes the good life. 

Starts from approximately: $1,750

8. Gucci Dive Watch 40mm White Dial Feline Head (Style ‎559821 I8610 8504)

Gucci Dive Watch 40mm White Dial Feline Head (Style ‎559821 I8610 8504)

Nothing screams “doyenne” or “feminine domination” louder than this watch. It is simply the epitome of luxury, elegance, grace, and sophistication.

For one, the choice of colors is indeed intriguing and well thought out. The strap, which comes in white rubber, the black dial, and the yellow gold case, give the watch a sleek and polished look.

However, the most intriguing aspect of the Gucci Style ‎559821 I8610 8504 is the brand’s use of one of its symbolic motifs – the feline head. The feline head is a three-dimensional sculpture sitting at the dial’s center that nods to the craftsmanship that goes into the watch. 

Additionally, to sustain the watch’s femininity, the case is made in a 40mm size, perfect for persons who want a look that’s neither too big nor too small. But this design can pass as a unisex timepiece. 

Starts from approximately: $1,650

9. Gucci Dive Watch Bio-Based 40mm Green Transparent (Style ‎704340 I16H0 3020)

Gucci Dive Watch Bio-Based 40mm Green Transparent (Style ‎704340 I16H0 3020)

The Gucci Dive Bio-based 40mm Green Transparent Watch (Style ‎704340 I16H0 3020) is made from bio-based materials derived from renewable resources and has a lower carbon footprint than traditional watch materials. 

The slimy green hue is also a nod to Gucci’s commitment to sustainability, as the brand strives to reduce its environmental impact in every aspect of its operations. This watch is no different from the other eco-based Gucci Dive watches, except for its leafy green color. 

It’s a stylish instrument watch, like the G-Shock, but it can also complement dress watches reasonably well. Its green translucent design gives the watch a distinctive and contemporary feel, and the 40mm case size is ideal for individuals who desire a medium-sized watch.

The green plastic strap is comfortable to wear (suitable for wrist sizes 5.9″ to 7.9″) and reinforces the watch’s eco-friendly credentials.

Starts from approximately: $1,850

10. Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Black Dial Multi Color Indexes (Style ‎663940 I16X0 8489)

 Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Black Dial Multi Color Indexes (Style ‎663940 I16X0 8489)

The Gucci Dive Watch 45mm Black Dial Multi Color Indexes is a fun and vibrant timepiece perfect for those who want to add a pop of color to their wardrobe. 

It’s a beautiful stainless steel silver watch that retains the typical features of the classic Dive collection on a frosted black dial. It’s good to see Gucci’s green-and-red one, the star and round indexes, and the bee replacing the GG logo at 12 o’clock.

It’s framed in a 45mm black steel case and the typical unidirectional rotating bezel for divers in 5-minute intervals written in Arabic numerals. This Gucci Dive is bulky, with an equally large link bracelet with a brush and polished finish. But its dark face transforms it into a fashionable casual timepiece. 

Like most dive watches, this watch retains 200 meters of water resistance and the Swiss Quartz movement. However, it has a slightly different wrist size as it is only suitable for wrists that are 135mm to 190mm wide.

Starts from approximately: $1,700

Conclusion

Gucci Dive Watches are the ideal fusion of fashion and functionality. But they’re more glorified as a statement or style piece, not their horological advancement. All the watches in the Dive collection are quartz, and Gucci fails to explain or expressly mention the technical details of their making. 

Regardless, Gucci Dive watches are still an excellent choice for recreational diving and/or fashion statement piece. Want to appear casual, stylish, elegant, powerful, and luxurious? You name it; there’s a Gucci Dive Watch that suits your purpose.

We’ve highlighted some of the best models currently on the market in our 10 Best Gucci Dive Watches list. Hopefully, this guide will connect you with your next contemporary water-resistant timepiece. All the best!

20 big date watches for all budgets

Big date watches are works of art for hardcore horology lovers. And a simple timepiece for those who want a date window that’s easy to read. They don’t do much other than present you with an enlarged date window. 

But true watch buffs see beyond the dial. It’s their complex movements with intricate parts that make the hands tick. Another thing we love on big dates is their classy, dressy appeal. In this review, you’ll be captivated by their endless allure.  

We’ll look over twenty large date watches from as cheap as $300 to over $100,000. Our exquisite pick is the Philippe Patek Grand Complications. 

Your Big Date, Your Choice

You don’t have to splurge or search far and wide to pick a “great” large or “grande” date. All you need is a taste and a budget. Once you find a design that suits you, that’s all that matters. It doesn’t matter if it’s quartz or mechanical. 

The big date is simply a watch with a large date window. The only exception is that you may have to spend upwards of $800 to find one with an automatic or winding movement. 

About The Big Date Complication

Hold up! Big dates were a thing before Rolex shipped out those date-magnifying cyclops lenses. They still have this feature in their date watches – except for the Deepsea. That’s not our focus for today, but those engineered to have large dates, not ones under a magnifying glass. 

Original big date wristwatches had two large date windows. They were introduced by one of our favorite manufacturers, A. Lange & Sohne, the german watchmaker, in the 40s.

The First Date Window by a GP-Defunct Company

About a decade before, Mimo, owners of Girard Perregaux, released the first date watch (the Mimo-Meter) in 1930. At the time, it was such an essential function that its tagline was “the watch that sells itself.” 

Admittedly, it could have been a better look compared to today’s standard, but it was a groundbreaking feat nonetheless. 

The Big Entry

Helvetia introduced the first prototype of a true big date complication when they released a watch with two legible date windows. Unlike the Mimo-Meter, the windows were also more prominent than the indexes. The watch was powered by a Helvetia caliber 75A housed in a familiar tonneau-shaped case. 

But the Helvetia date complication needed to be fixed. It had a thing for running over the last day of the month to the 39th. And then switch to zero unless you manually change it. But they corrected this with a pusher in the crown. 

Enter a few years, many brands, including Mimo and GP, jumped on the idea of the big date. And they used Helvetia’s caliber 75A. 

The Purpose of Big Date Watches

A big date watch serves one functional purpose – to easily read dates on the dial. If that’s why you’re here, consider your needs met. Today, though, millennials and Gen Z folks would shrug it off as their top reason because smartphones and smartwatches are now a thing.

But if you’re intentional about the construction, you’d also get your taste of some of the most complicated models. Some big date watch movements carry the peripheral, overlapping, disc-on-disc, and unconventional stacked date discs.

Top 20 Big Date Watches for Every Man and Woman

Without wasting time, I’ll hook you up with the best big date watches in ascending order. Let’s go from entry-level to elite class. 

1. Seiko SPC153

Starts from approximately $150

There are two ways around this watch: either you roll your eyes in, or they light up as you sight the price tag. If it’s the latter, you’re in for a treat. The Seiko SPC153 is a classic and reliable timepiece, actually a steal. But that’s not a surprise coming from Seiko. 

The SPC153 is a stylish and sporty big date chronograph that’s powered by an in-house quartz movement. This Japanese budget watch is 42mm across and 12mm thick, with a masculine appeal. 

At the heart of this watch is the Seiko caliber ZT04. The battery-powered movement has a well-contrasting date window below 12 o’clock. The white date window pops on the black background of the main dial and subdials.

It makes it easy to read the date even though it’s a smaller font than the main indexes. It’s a nice dress watch and a budget option to add a dressy and rugged date window watch to your collection.  

2. Spinnaker Hull Chronograph

Spinnaker Hull Chronograph

Starts from approximately $235

The Hull Chronograph is a bold vintage watch with a bulky 42mm frame. If bold and classy is your style, you’d confidently rock this boxy 15mm thick Spinnaker Hull. 

It features a genuine 22mm leather strap with durable stitching to the booth. In addition, you can improve the Hull’s versatility with add-on straps in fabric, rubber, and nylon in different variations. 

The dial is strikingly remarkable for its price. It’s a sandwich dial with a rug-like finish, the big date at 12 o’clock, and a noticeably bright lume. All of these are packed into a tall cushion-shaped solid back stainless steel case with an attractive polished tachymeter scale bezel.

The SP5068-01 chrono is fascinating when you consider how its deeply-recessed date and dial remain visible at angles despite having a double-domed crystal. 

However, the mineral lens is inferior compared to sapphire, although it’s scratch-resistant – understandable at its price point and craftsmanship level. What makes this beauty so affordable is probably its Japan VK73 Meca-quartz movement. 

Overall, the Spinnaker Hull chronograph is a feature-packed big date chronograph and a top choice if you are okay with quartz. 

3. Junkers Big Date (ref. 6640-1)

Junkers Big Date (ref. 6640-1)

Here’s an entry for my classy, simple, and dressy watch guys. Junkers, an obscure German watch brand, offers a piece to drool over and for a good price. Sporting a white corrugated sheet dial with calligraphic Arabic numerals and a sizeable date window riding down north, the model Date 6640-1 would go with you for days. 

It’s an iconic dial that pays homage to the corrugated sheet body of the first all-metal airplane – Junkers J1. Not to mention it’s only 42mm and weighs under 70 grams, so you can rock this baby carefree. 

Add its two time zone function is a great everyday companion. It has a separately adjustable 12-hour time zone dial at 6 o’clock you can control with one pusher. The Junkers 6640-1 also runs a battery-powered Ronda 6203. B quartz movement. Unlike most dual-time complications, its dual-time is easy to read and operate for first-time owners. 

4. Certina DS-1 Big Date (ref. C029.426.11.041.00)

Certina DS-1 Big Date (ref. C029.426.11.041.00)

Starts from approximately $932

The Certina DS-1 is a fresh turn from what you’ve seen in this review. It boasts a colorful and numberless dial that allows the big date to shine. 

The dial is a shade of blue and black, with swordlike hands and markers reminiscent of the black panther mask. This combination of deep colors contrasts with the plain white big date window. 

Located at 6 o’clock, the date is the only number on the dial and is considerably bigger than the hour marker. Without question, its double tens date is easy to read. And easy on the wrists.

It’s 41mm and less than 12mm thick, giving it a sleek, minimalist profile. The Certina DS-1 uses a Swiss-made Powermatic 80 automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve.

Furthermore, its exhibition-style case back gives true big date watch lovers a thing to show to friends and family when they go on about the mechanism. All in all, the Certina DS-1 is a great beginner mechanical big-date watch to buy on a budget.

5. Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph Big Date (ref. AL-372NB4S6)

Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph Big Date (ref. AL-372NB4S6)

Starts from approximately $1,100

This pilot watch combines a sporty, toolsy look with a touch of elegance. The bold 44mm diameter, 13mm tall stainless steel case with chrono pushers appears to be an instrument watch. 

But a closer look at the details will make you think twice. The Startimer, for one, has a finely brushed and polished case in addition to polished hands, pushers, and a grandiose crown. 

The navy blue dial synchronizes with the counters, indexes, hands, and the large date at 6 o’clock. Couple these with a calf leather strap, and you can’t help but have a gentleman’s watch. 

The Alpina Startimer has precision considered one-of-a-kind for a pilot watch. Well, actually, it uses a quartz AL–372 movement that lasts for four years. Get the Alpina for a stylish big date and a functional pilot watch in your collection. 

6. Mido Baroncelli Big Date (ref. M027.426.36.018.00)

Mido Baroncelli Big Date (ref. M027.426.36.018.00)

Starts from approximately $1,100

Mido has one of the larger collections of large date display watches. But this rose-gold-plated Baroncelli is the model that takes the cake. 

It’s an embodiment of simplicity and luxury. The Baroncelli is a 40mm round case mechanical watch with a cow leather strap that’s only 10.4mm thick. That alone shows extra comfort even before it adorns your wrist. 

The Baroncelli’s plain white dial has a sunray finish that has an interesting play on light. Its rose gold plated hands and stick hour markers give the watch a refreshing pop of luxury. 

The Baroncelli runs on a powerful Mido caliber 80 (based on ETA C07.651) movement as icing on the cake. It’s presumably named after its astounding 80-hour power reserve. The Mido Baroncelli is easily the finest dressy big date with a perfect balance of form and function. 

7. Longines Master Collection Big Date (ref. L2.648.4.78.6)

Longines Master Collection Big Date (ref. L2.648.4.78.6)

Starts from around $2,000

The Longines stays on the trajectory we’ve come so far. It’s easy on the eye and classy. It’s your typical Arabic numeral dial in a stainless steel case and bracelet. The only difference is it introduces you to what luxury watches feel like. 

For one, the indexes are stylishly written, like calligraphy or animation. And it sports the rare feuille or “leaf” hand design seen in iconic watches like the Mont Blanc Star Legacy and H.Moser & Cie Endeavor watches. 

The Master Big Date also has a guilloche finish dial, which you only see in top-tier watches. If you need to familiarize yourself with the term, it’s a decorative pattern that resembles thorns or pyramids. Well, that’s the thing about artful timepieces: you get to picture them in your reality. 

Generally, this Longines facilitates clean and easy yet stylish timekeeping. The 12-hour format, 60-minute inner bezel, luminous hands, and oversized date paint the picture. If you’re looking for an affordable big date model from a famous brand, consider the Longines Master.    

8. Breitling Galactic 41 Big Date (ref. A49350)

Breitling Galactic 41 Big Date (ref. A49350)

Starts from approximately $4,280

The Breitling Galactic is for those who genuinely appreciate style and function. It’s galactic or sci-fi-themed, like a device on a spaceship. But it’s practically a simple and user-friendly design. 

First off, the Galactic 41 has a solid 41mm stainless steel case with bold bezel engravings. It’s solidly built from the case back to the protective rim around the crown. 

Secondly, the blue dial is almost plain but sophisticated. The dial has oversized black-and-white stick hour markers and hands for easy reading. And, of course, a large date at 3 o’clock.

As you probably can tell, this watch is clearly built like a tank. A quick look at the bracelet’s build alone reveals that. But even better, it has strap varieties in leather and rubber to one down the look.

A COSC-certified Breitling caliber B49 powers the Galactic 41. That’s 42 hours of power reserve and 300 meters of water resistance. You’ll appreciate the Galactic 41 Big Date for its versatility. It’s perfect for a night out in a suit but also looks terrific with casual attire. 

9. Omega De Ville X2 Big Date (ref. 7813.30.39)

Omega De Ville X2 Big Date (ref. 7813.30.39)

Starts from approximately $4,030

Ever thought of getting an avant-garde timepiece that’s also practical? Look no further than the Omega De Ville X2 Big Date. 

The De Ville is the first watch Omega collection watch equipped with a co-axial escapement. This X2 Big Date houses a modern caliber 2610 with a 48-hour power reserve and tourbillon for greater accuracy. 

But that’s enough beauty to get movement fans going. Now let’s talk about its aesthetic face and strap. Its square-shaped stainless steel case will stand out in the crowd. And it’s only 35mm, which is ironic because it packs a punch considering its movement and large font dial.

Speaking of which, the dial is a classic painting in a frame. The indices have an ingenious combo of a dagger and Roman/Arabic numerals. You’ll also see this number concept in the date window, which is impressive. 

More impressive is how these indices are enlarged out of proportion to its 35mm case. This makes the De Ville X2 an easy watch to read despite being extremely dressy. However, it doesn’t have a lume.    

Regardless, it’s a precision big date dress watch from a respected watchmaker and a respectable collection. 

10. Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec BigDate (ref. 00.10628.13.53.01)

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec BigDate (ref. 00.10628.13.53.01)

Starts from about $8,600

The tenth big date watch on our list offers some complications you’d appreciate if simple isn’t your vibe. One of the unique complications is its big date aperture at the 11 o’clock position. The window is solid-framed, and the date even has a deeper black font than most grande date models.

In addition, the EvoTec has a small date window at 6 o’clock, which declutters the dial. This makes it even easier to read. Not to mention, the Patravi EvoTec is super-comfortable and dressy.

It sports a blue 39mm stainless case that accentuates the blue dial and blue calfskin strap. And it’s somewhat thick at 13mm, so it’ll also pass for casual wear. It houses an automatic movement with 55 hours of power reserve in its transparent case back.

11. IWC Big Pilot Big Date “150 Years” (ref. IW510504)

IWC Big Pilot Big Date "150 Years" (ref. IW510504)

Starts from about $14,000

Let’s take a break from sophistication to reintroduce a clean and uncomplicated design – the limited-edition IWC Big Pilot 150 Years. 

It’s a simple but prestigious big date watch. As its name implies, it’s an homage to IWC’s 150th year of watchmaking in 2018. And only 100 pieces of these babies are available (IWC produced 150 pieces, as they should have initially). 

What makes the Big Pilot Date so special? Start with a hand-wound IWC caliber 59235. It’s intriguing that a manual movement powers the double-date display and has an eight-day power reserve.

Now that you know it’s technically capable, we’ll briefly tour its plain white gloss-finished face. The dial is vibrant with a play of Arabic numerals and stick indexes, and blue hour hands.

Top that off with alligator skin leather with metal pins for a bold look. And it’s housed in a massive 46.5mm stainless case. So while this may sound like a perfect watch on paper, the IWC 150 Big Pilot 150 Years would wear more comfortably by tall wearers.

12. Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moon Phase (ref. 25882-11-121-BB6B)

Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moon Phase (ref. 25882-11-121-BB6B)

Starts from approximately $14,500

The GP Vintage 1945 is a watch with notes of class, artistry, and masterful engineering; it’s an appealing model for vintage and stylish watch lovers.

The Girard Perregaux Vintage XXL is one of the best picks for the case and large date design. First off, it has a 39mm convex stainless steel case. This means it’s curved at every angle to give a 3D-like look, which is difficult even for a luxury brand.  

The convex profile is a challenging engineering accomplishment only seen in elite luxury brands like Vacheron Constantin. Its polished stainless steel case houses a stunning silver dial with a perfect play on light that gives it a darker shade. 

Under the sapphire crystal are Arabic numeral indexes, a moon phase indicator at the door (6 o’clock), and a grand date below the roof (12 o’clock) of the dial. 

There’s more to GP’s Vintage 1945 big date than meets the eye (for most watch buyers). Its COSC-certified GP03300 caliber delivers unparted date windows on the same plane. This “borderless” design also achieves clear tracks for its railway minute markers. 

Any collector or watch enthusiast will gladly pay 20 grand for the level of attention to detail and durability of the Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL. It’s not shy of daily use and will pass for a regalia timepiece. Furthermore, it will hold its value if you’re a shelf collector. 

13. Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date (ref. 2-39-47-02-01-04)

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date (ref. 2-39-47-02-01-04)

Starts from approximately $8,000

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date is a steal-buy for a taste of luxury engineering and embellishment. The first pass you get is into the world of convex lenses and dials.

That’s the same engineering in the 15k GP Vintage 45′ – we reviewed previously – or a 50k Vacheron Constantin Patrimony. Its domed silver dial is unmistakable under the Sixties Panorama’s ultra-slim case and curved sapphire crystal lens.  

Gold-plated hour incisions and hands and four Arabic numerals dissect this Sixties Panorama into four cardinal points. While that’s aesthetically pleasing, it’s the caliber 39-47 and its big date function that births this model’s name. 

The big date changes the date after 24 hours in a cinematic crossover – panorama. Its display discs at 6 o’clock are two concentric plates on the same plane. They achieve the smooth transition that Glashütte calls “panorama.” 

14. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Grande Date (ref. 5050 12B30 B52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Grande Date (ref. 5050 12B30 B52A)

Starts from around $18,500 

Blancpain, one of the oldest luxury watchmakers, offers the tanking Fifty Fathoms in a grande date display. Its deep black dial and titanium steel case paired with the sail cloth strap give off a bold image.

In addition, the Super-LumiNova coating on the black background makes it even easier to read in low light.  Trust the Fifty Fathoms to give you the confidence of a tool or dive watch with its thick 43mm titanium case.

It has a unidirectional bezel and up to 300 meters of water resistance. This model features a grande date automatic caliber 6918B. It’s a nice upgrade from the tiny date window of the normal version – about twice the size of the original. 

It makes the $3k price bump worth it if you want the Fifty Fathoms with a large date. It holds value well on the resale market, so it’s also a gratifying investment watch.

15. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Big Date (ref. 49140/423A-8886)

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Big Date (ref. 49140/423A-8886)

Starts from approximately $20,000

The VC Overseas is a small but intense chronograph with exceptional attention to detail – can’t expect less from a member of the “Holy Trinity.”  

This well-polished chronograph houses a toned black dial with detailed designs in a VC cross-shaped bezel. It has Roman numeral indexes on every hour except the cardinal points. 

The counters flesh out the face as they intertwine with 10th and 2nd-hour markers with minute trackers and dagger hands that look like ties: a small second counter, a 12-hour timer at 9, and a 30-minute counter at 3. 

Finally, the grande date window crowns the dial at 12 thanks to the Vacheron Constantin caliber 1137. It has 40 hours of power reserve and an anti-shock system. 

The Overseas is a luxury sports watch to dress up or down in grand style. Although it can take a beating, it’s not exactly cut out for a tool watch. 

16. Cartier Tortue Large Date Small Seconds (ref. CRW1556233)

Cartier Tortue Large Date Small Seconds (ref. CRW1556233)

Starts from approximately $30,000

Cartier, the world-renowned jeweler of over 170 years, has something in store for historical watch buffs. Its tonneau shape is one of the closest designs to the real thing – The MimoMeter – back in the ’30s. 

The Tortue is one of the rarest big date watches. And its history goes way back to 1912 when Louis Cartier designed it, inspired by the shape of a tortoise. It’s a similar concept to the Cartier Tank

It’s a masterful creation and an embodiment of rare luxury. The Tortue Large Date Small Seconds is a self-explanatory design but finer when you look in detail. Start with a luxurious real estate of 18K white gold case with a closed back.  

Moving to the dial, you get a matte silver sheet inside a 38mm fence. It’s embellished with concentric Roman numeral hour indexes and a small second window door at 6.

The big date is square and center at 12. And you get to carry this work of art around in a reptile strap. The Cartier Tortue CRW1556233 is a great fit for professionals in finance, law, or high-class society. 

17. H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD (ref. 3808-1201)

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD (ref. 3808-1201)

Starts from approximately $35,000

The Pioneer is an ultra-slim 43mm dress big date watch on steroids! The engineering, complications, and aesthetics are detailed to the highest standard. A funky blue fume dial with a sunburst plays light and color tricks in a calm display. It’s a clutter-free display – the stick and dot indexes only indicate ten-minute intervals. 

Actually, the dots are its bezel numbers, so you can imagine how immaculate the MD is. These and the skeleton dagger hands light up even in pitch darkness. 

The world-class watchmaker blows our minds with an HMC 808 movement engine (168-hour reserve). It has a month and date display window at 3, a small seconds window at 6, and a power reserve indicator at 9. 

What’s impressive is how these complications make the HMC Pioneer MD easier to read and adjust. 

This watch would be a great addition to any collection if you can afford it. It can be formal only, casual, or even for adventure. Not to mention, it’s a limited edition model from a renowned brand, so you’re also looking at a great investment watch. 

18. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (ref. 191.039)

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (ref. 191.039)

Starts from approximately $40,000

With the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1, we’ll stray from the conventional. It’s practically a date watch than one for timekeeping. 

A. Lange & Sohne tagged it the “inimitable” dial because of its asymmetric – off-balance – design. Its silver dial is flush with a 38.5mm white gold casing. There’s a 12-hour window in Roman numerals on the left gracefully intertwined with a seconds window below. 

The large date display sits alone in the top-right as the most legible writing on the dial. And for this, we can give credit to L121.1 in-house caliber. 

Knowing how beautiful it is, the brand displays it through its see-through sapphire crystal case back. It’s manually wound, has a 72-hour power reserve, and offers instantaneous date change at midnight.  

The Lange 1 is undeniably one of the most iconic modern watches. It’s a great buy if you want a visible high-end movement with a unique, gorgeous dial and precious metal finish.   

19. Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet Large Date Tourbillon (ref. 26009BC.OO.D002CR.01)

Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet Large Date Tourbillon (ref. 26009BC.OO.D002CR.01)

Starts from around $70,000

For our second entry from the “Holy Trinity,” we introduce the Edward Piguet Large Date. It’s a masterpiece of horology with a renowned price tag that limits it only to the elite and hardcore watch buffs. 

Who else can appreciate horology enough to pay over 50 grand for a sophisticated big date movement? The Eduard Piguet Large Date has a partial skeleton dial with Roman numeral markers, a tourbillon, and a large date window on a 34mm case.

They complement the dark rhodium-finished 18k white gold case and an alligator strap to add a touch of class. However, the true champion is its tourbillon movement with complications of extreme difficulty that you can even see through the case back. It’s manually wound with up to 72 hours of power reserve.

AP gives you a glimpse of Swiss engineering perfection in the dial and case back. It’s undeniably a statement piece for special occasions but is durable enough for casual wear if you can pull it off.

20. Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5236P)

Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5236P)

Starts from around $140,000

What better way than to end our list with the final member of the “Holy Trinity”? The Patek Philippe Grand Complications delivers masterfully on every note of complication, readability, and choice of materials. 

With a 41mm platinum case, we have Patek Philippe’s biggest Perpetual date model. The price is readily justifiable considering the special features of its caliber 31-260 PS QL, like hand-woven engineering, mechanism, and a moon phase. 

The clear winner, though, is the Grand Complications big date. It displays the day, date, and month in the same aperture, which is truly special. But the gradient blue satin-finished dial provides an aesthetic touch that turns heads.

Flip it over, and you’ll still have the movement to yourself through the open case back. The Philippe Patek Grand Complications is finally cased in platinum and has an alligator strap to complete the look. 

Conclusion

Big date watches are perfect for functionality, style, and precision. Each timepiece caters to watch enthusiasts’ unique needs and preferences, with features like high-quality materials, intricate designs, and precise timekeeping mechanisms. 

From sporty and casual to elegant and formal, these timepieces offer versatility and sophistication. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer, you’ll find an affordable and functional model that catches your eye.

15 best panda dial watches

The panda dial first caught my eye on a Seinfeld episode. Jerry wore a Breitling Chronomat with a reverse panda dial. The dial and “rouleax” were on full display as he talked over a cup of coffee.

But luxury watches with black-on-white or white-on-black dial designs reigned long before Seinfeld and are back to stay. As you probably know, they are named after the cute and clumsy Panda bear. There’s no telling who named it, but it’s clearly a befitting name for the design. 

Take a stroll back in time with me as we trace its origins to the 60s. And enter the moment with a list of 15 adorable panda dial watches in 2023.

History of The Panda Dial on Watches

The panda dial was a trend that took off in the 1960s, but its origin is unknown. However, most enthusiasts attribute its origin to the king, the Rolex Daytona. While there’s some truth to that, it’s technically not factual.

The earliest known panda dial is Breitling’s original 1957 Superocean. But it was a reverse panda dial.  White-on-black dial chronographs only took off after the Rolex Daytona 6239 hit the market in 1963. With its success, top luxury watchmakers released panda dial versions of their favorite timepieces. 

Maybe it was too cute to resist, or their designers just wanted a share of this new market–we’ll never know! Ultimately though, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6239 is the first known pure panda dial (white dial with black sub-dials). 

Breitling released its first true panda dial in 1964, TAG Heuer (Carrera) in 1968, and Zenith’s El Primero in 1969 was the first multi-colored version.

Design That Pops

There’s a saying that people buy with emotions, not reason. Sure, there are features you may love, but you eventually purchase an item based on how it makes you feel. This can’t be any truer with the panda dial. Watch enthusiasts love the dial for its name, look, and how it’s a surefire way to show off a chronograph. 

The panda has no special features except for the watchmaker’s complication for that model. That’s why it’s a timeless style. You can buy a “nameless” brand, wear a quartz watch, and still enjoy the black-and-white appeal. 

Choosing one boils downs to your budget and level of craftsmanship on the dial, first of all. Then your choice of strap material, movement complications, or bezel design is at the heart of it. Fortunately, our extensive list cuts across many options to meet your taste. 

Types of Panda Dial Watches

As you may have noticed earlier from the history of panda dials, it’s not exclusive to the typical white-and-black color combination. Here are three types of panda dials you’ll come across. 

1. True Panda Dial 

True to the face of the Chinese panda, true panda dial watches have a white dial and two or three black sub-dials. 

2. Reverse Panda Dial

It’s a watch with the reverse of a pure panda dial – a black main dial with white sub-dials. And it can be a non-black-and-white color scheme. But they are also available in several combinations, like Zenith’s El Primero, with gold dial and black sub-dials. 

3. Multi-colored Panda Dial 

The multicolored or tri-colored panda dial has a single-colored base dial with sub-dials in multiple colors. Zenith originated this style with its 1969 El Primero models with a white background and subdials in three colors. The tri-colored A386’s sub-dials were silver, black, and blue. 

The 15 Panda Dial Watches Worth Buying in 2023

Here’s my selection of the best panda dial watches on the market. Some are iconic chronographs from celebrated brands, and a few are innovative quartz timepieces for the budget-conscious enthusiast.

1. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Starts from approximately $14,000 

The Daytona line (past and present) includes some of the rarest watches worldwide. For one, Paul Newman’s Paul Newman Daytona (ref. 6239) is the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction. 

The original series from the 60s had four-digit serial numbers and are the pioneer panda dial watches. They were hand-wound and had solid sub-dial colors, unlike the modern Daytona editions. You’ll spend no less than $100,000 on a vintage Daytona. 

However, modern Daytonas, like the ref.116500, sport a less prominent panda design. The sub-dials are less pronounced because only their outer tracks have a contrasting color. But pricier models like the 116528 feature the solid panda face we’d love to see in a yellow-gold case. 

It’s not just the technical and artistic prowess that makes the Daytona special. Wearing one with a panda dial also puts you in the one percent of collectors and enthusiasts. 

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 26331ST.OO.1220ST.03

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 26331ST.OO.1220ST.03

Starts from approximately $46,000

The Royal Oak is arguably one of the greatest luxury sports watches for men. And its panda dial version is no different when you consider the level of attention to detail in crafting it. 

The iconic “Grand Tapisserie” embossing on its silver-white dial is only found in AP Royal Oaks. There’s also an artistic spiral pattern on the blackened sub-registers you’d only see from brands like AP and GP.

Since the panda dial is only a look, there’s plenty more to stare at if you’re prepared to whip out the cash. The Royal Oak also has white-gold applied hour markers and a 41mm scratch-proof octagonal stainless steel with a brush finish that’s a beauty in the eye of the beholder and onlookers. 

The pushers are carved in a matching octagonal style and are level with the screw-locked crown. Audemars Piguet provides matching Royal Oak cufflinks to rock your timepiece like royalty to top off the look. 

3. Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph (ref. AB0118221G1P1)

Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph (ref. AB0118221G1P1)

Starts from approximately $8,750

Breitling Chronographs got me enchanted when I first saw Jerry wearing the Chronomat and Navitimer. But I thought the latter was quite oversized. Breitling provides solace, though, in the Premier B01 chronograph AB0118221G1P1. It’s the polar opposite with a sleek 42mm stainless steel case and “true” panda dial. 

The bi-compax – only two subdials – panda dial is simple yet handsome. Its contrast of black and white and subtle red on the inner bezel is refreshing. Although some enthusiasts may wish it was more clutter-free. 

The B01’s sleek old-school stopwatch-like crown and pushers have the graceful low-key look of a sports watch. Perhaps even a dress watch. The two rectangular pushers stay flush on the same line as the crown.  With the absence of a bezel, you’ll appreciate the discreet push-down buttons even more.

4. Omega Speedmaster Pulsometer (ref. CK2998)

Omega Speedmaster Pulsometer (ref. CK2998)

Starts from approximately $7,000

CK2998 is a vintage Omega Speedmaster from 1959 and the first Omega in space. Omega re-introduced this classic in a stunning panda dial and aesthetic leather strap. It’s set in a 39mm case with three subdials.

This rare panda dial watch is limited to only 2,998 pieces. It’s powered by a manual winding movement and has a rare pulsometer, which completes its vintage status. The pulsometer – used to check heartbeats per minute – is inscribed onto its black ceramic bezel. 

On the contrary, Omega beautifully signs the limited edition number on the CK2998’s case back. It’s like a certificate of its exclusivity. 

With this status and design, the Moonwatch Pulsometer is one of the best panda dial chronographs within the $10k range. It has all the requirements for a good resale: scarcity, value, and demand. 

5. Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival

Starts from approximately: $7,000

The Zenith El Primero is one of the more manly chronographs with a panda dial. Its tonneau shape – rectangular with rounded edges – case wears well as a bold sporty, or dressy watch. But even more impressive is how it encircles the white-lacquered panda dial and black tachymeter in a 37mm darkened steel case. 

Like the Omega Moonwatch, the A384 (Ref 03.A384.400) Revival is a modern remake of the vintage A317. It was Zenith’s first steel watch to use the El Primero high-frequency automatic caliber from 1969. 

You’ll experience the El Primero movement sweeping across the lacquered dial at 36,000 beats per minute for 50 hours non-stop. Not to forget the ladder bracelet originally produced by legendary watch designer Gay Freres. It’s a relatively slim-profile and lightweight strap with a classic stamped clasp. 

6. Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

Starts from approximately $5,450

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono is a great panda dial chronograph for hobbyists and followers of new-school tool watches. 

Released in 2021, the Black Bay Chrono M79360 offers both original and reverse panda dials and a few strap attachments. The M79360 has two “panda eyes” at (3 and 9 o’clock) a tachymeter scale, and trademark Tudor indexes and hands. 

This model has a stainless steel bracelet, but you can get black fabric and leather options. It packs a ton of value with the features it offers at its price point.

A COSC-certified Omega or Rolex with 70 hours of power reserve, chronograph, lume, and tachymeter will cost a few more thousand. Not to mention its five-year guarantee coverage. Plus, it sports a vintage Daytona look that will pass as a budget alternative.

7. TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback (ref. CBE511B.FC8279)

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback (ref. CBE511B.FC8279)

Starts from approximately $6,750

The Autavia Flyback panda is the third release from TAG Heuer’s 60th anniversary. It came in after the Black edition with a refreshing gray dial and multicolored panda. 

The bold design includes black subdials and a silver window at 6 o’clock. Complete with a sporty screw-down crown and chronograph pushers. The Autavia Flyback is even more beautiful at night when the SuperLuminova-applied hands and Arabic numerals light up. 

This model is the perfect everyday watch. While the 42mm Flyback Chronometer looks oversized, it’s considerably lightweight. 

But the real magic of this watch lies in its performance. Its COSC-certified movement is a powerhouse with a power reserve of up to 80 hours and is made in-house. It also has a trademark flyback function to set and reset the stopwatch with a single button. 

Also, if you’re a fan of the exhibition-style casebacks, Tag Heuer Autavia has one for you. And the Flyback movement is one beauty to behold. Overall, though, this model with a panda dial is a great option if you’re looking for a masterful combination of style and function. 

8. Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th Anniversary (ref. 3569.31.00)

Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th Anniversary (ref. 3569.31.00)

Starts from approximately $16,950

The Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI is another panda dial on the list celebrating one of humankind’s greatest achievements – the moon landing. And what better honor than to use one of the most iconic dials of the 60s. 

Its panda dial has a clean, artistic silvered white background and three close-knitted subdials. Flip the watch, and you’ll be greeted with a colorful Bald Eagle soaring over the moon on its case back. It’s the original Apollo XI mission patch. 

And, of course, the robust stainless steel case and tachymeter scale Speedmaster fans have adored for decades. 

Powering the watch is an in-house Omega 1861 movement with a decent 40-hour reserve and 21,600 beats per minute. What’s interesting, though, is that caliber 1861 is an evolution of the 861s from the original Moonwatch models. 

Get a Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th Anniversary if you love timeless, exclusive watches. Each watch is even inscribed with a number to prove its exclusivity. 

9. Girard Perregaux Laureato Chronograph (ref. 81020-11-131-11A)

Girard Perregaux Laureato Chronograph (ref. 81020-11-131-11A)

Starts from approximately $5,000

This GP Laureato 42mm carries an astoundingly stunning panda dial! But its beauty goes beyond the panda dial for a watch with craftsmanship similar to the Patek Philippe Nautilus and AP Royal Oak. Firstly, the Laueato’s dial is a Clous De Paris guilloche with small pyramid-like knobs, also seen in brands like Patek Philippe and Breguet

Secondly, it’s clothed in a unique octagonal 904L – contains high chromium – case with sublime scratch resistance. Or simply, wear the Laureato in an 18-carat pink gold case. If you pay attention to the detailing on your watches, you’ll appreciate the contrasting polished finish on the bezel and pushers. 

The GP Laureato is also incredibly comfortable to wear with its matching integrated 904L steel bracelet. It’s unsurprisingly one of the best luxury sports watches from this decade. 

Girard Perregaux Laureato uses an in-house GP03300 automatic movement with 48 hours of power reserve. Interestingly but unsurprising, it’s also gem-studded with 63 jewels, so you can bet it’ll run for generations. This chronograph is perfect if you want a panda dial chronograph at the top of your collection. 

10. Bremont ALT1-C

Bremont ALT1-C

Starts from approximately $6,295

A two-face panda dial, the ALT1-C is another classic masterpiece worth your time. Its timeless design dates back to military use as a pilot watch. Its panda design speaks for itself with contrasting white-on-black backgrounds and subdials facilitating easy reading. 

Although I prefer Arabic numeral indexes on a dial, Bremont replacing them with stick indexes gives the dial a clean, minimalist look. Not to mention that they’re in-laid with Super Luminova, which provides it with a pristine look in the dark. 

What’s more, the ALT1-C’s 43mm satin-finished case complements the overall look of the dial perfectly. The case is missing a functional bezel-like tachymeter, but this actually makes it a dressier option.

And its see-through case back exhibits the Caliber 13 BE-50AE with 25 jewels and 42 hours of power reserve. Like most top-tier watches on our list within its price range, the Caliber 13 is a highly accurate and reliable movement. And it has a COSC certification as proof of quality. 

Ultimately, the Bremont ALT1-C is a relatively average chronograph in this review. But that means it’s durable, accurate, and a beautiful panda watch.

11. Montblanc Timewalker (ref. 118490)

Montblanc Timewalker (ref. 118490)

Starts from approximately $5,400

Again, I’m a big fan of dials with Arabic numerals, and hopefully, there’s a comrade who also sees this beauty. 

If not, you can consider the Montblanc Timewalker as a budget alternative to the Omega Apollo XI. Although you won’t enjoy the prestige of the Moonwatch or its Apollo XI medallion, you’ll save over $10,000 and get an equally beautiful panda dial. 

This Timewalker model is a solid 43mm timepiece with high-quality materials like a ceramic bezel and solid stainless steel build. It runs on a Richemont ValFleurier – a respected Swiss movement maker – caliber 25.10. A powerful self-winding column wheel movement with 46 hours of power reserve. 

I’ll recommend the Montblanc Timewalker 118490 for a watch enthusiast who values quality and economy over prestige in a panda dial watch.

12. Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (ref. H38416711)

Starts from approximately $2,000

I’ve always had a soft spot for Hamilton watches, and the Intra-Matic Auto is no different from its vintage-inspired design to its reliable movement. 

The Intra-Matic Auto has a classic look reminiscent of the 60s and is a remake of a 1968 signature piece. While you can’t help but appreciate its distinctive two-eyed panda, you’d love the classic dial even more. 

Its internal bezel fills the “empty” appeal of the polished case and pushers. The calf leather strap is eye candy and develops a unique shine as you break it in. 

And if you cherish movement engineering, you’d be proud of its H-31 movement. It displays great attention to detail and craftsmanship for its price with features like a column wheel mechanism, a monobloc rotor, and perlage on the main plate. 

For the more casual enthusiasts, this translates into reliable 60 hours of power reserve and steady accuracy of +/-30 seconds a day. The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a great pick for a retro-watch lover gunning for a complete vintage panda on a budget. 

13. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813P1

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813P1

Starts from approximately $680

The Seiko Speedtimer SS813 is the most affordable panda dial chronograph with some interesting features to boot.

Arguably its standout feature is its solar-powered movement. A solar ring on the edge of the dial charges the movement, which means the watch can run forever without a battery change or winding. Actually, it has a power reserve of up to six months.

Although touted as “cheap” by hardcore watch enthusiasts, a solar chronograph is an innovative, practical, and eco-friendly feature newbie watch enthusiasts love. 

The SSC813’s panda dial is a change from what we’ve sear. The hazy look of its finish has a striking contrast against the black bezel that can grow on you. And there’s the case and bracelet with the famous Seiko hairline and brush finish, which even quartz haters respect. 

14. Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph (ref. T1374271101100)

Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph (ref. T1374271101100)

Starts from approximately $5,200

The Tissot PRX is a GP Laureato lookalike that’s functional enough to be a budget alternative to the $18,000 powerhouse. 

Now, don’t expect to see the level of craftsmanship of the Laureato, like the guilloche-patterned dial, in the PRX. But you’ll get a 42mm clean satin-finished octagonal-cased timepiece with a lovely panda dial. 

It moves away from the conventional green ta blue-colored SuperLuminova hands and indexes. What’s more, the Tissot PRX has an integrated-like bracelet with quick release. However, it doesn’t have micro-adjustment, and you’ll have to settle for half links to resize it. 

In terms of functionality, the PRX is highly capable, with a stronger 60-hour power reserve Valjoux A05.H31 movement. However, it’s only accurate to -10/+20 seconds a day. 

15. Longines Heritage 1973 (ref. L2.791.4.72.0)

Longines Heritage 1973 (ref. L2.791.4.72.0)

Starts from approximately: $2,900

The Longines Heritage 1973 is a watch that oozes retro charm. It’s a stunning homage to a bygone era, with a design inspired by the racing chronographs of the 1970s. 

Its cushion-shaped case, combined with the white dial and contrasting black subdials, and blue-numbered tachymeter, creates a striking visual impact that is impossible to ignore.

The tonneau case is only 40mm, so it would perfectly fit most hands and is a prime candidate for a versatility watch. It’s brushed on the top and polished on the sides, which is an eye-catcher in my opinion. 

The Longines Heritage 1973 is also one of the more affordable panda dial watches from a reputable Swiss brand. And its resale value has been on the rise for almost a decade. It might be a sporty chrono, but it still carries a dressy vibe which is Longines’ prestige anyway.

Conclusion

Panda dial watches are no doubt timeless. But you don’t have to break the bank or settle for less. There’s an endless list of options, as seen in our showcase of the 15 best panda dial watches on the market. 

With its unparalleled precision, durability, and reputation, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is undoubtedly the crown jewel of our list. It is a watch that combines iconic design with legendary performance, making it a must-have for any serious collector.

At the same time, the Seiko Speedtimer SSC813 proves that luxury doesn’t always have to come with a hefty price tag. This watch offers exceptional value for money, combining a classic panda dial with reliable Japanese craftsmanship.

Regardless of whether you’re an avid collector or a newbie enthusiast, you’ll find one suitable for your budget and style. So, why not consider adding one to your collection and experience the timeless allure of this vintage design for yourself?

IWC vs JLC

Are IWC watches better than Jaeger LeCoultre watches? Is JLC more prestigious than IWC? These are pressing questions in watch collector circles that we look to clarify once and for all. In a world of Rolex vs Richard Mille knockoffs, IWC and Jaeger are some of the few fine watchmakers that catch a collector’s fancy.

Both brands are regarded as industry titans, with Jaeger Lecoultre distinguished by a tradition of in-house production and IWC’s commitment to sustainability and high-quality titanium and pilot watches. This comparison guide looks closely at each brand’s history, craftsmanship, popularity, and warranty that put them in the spotlight. And clarifies who’s the better brand.

History and Target Market

International Watch Co. (or IWC Schaffhausen)

IWC was founded in 1868 – 154 years ago – by a renowned Boston watchmaker and engineer, Florentine Ariosto Jones, who had a vision of fusing swiss horology with American technology to create masterpieces. Jones established IWC’s headquarters in Schaffhausen to enjoy the cheap overhead costs and abundant skilled workforce in Switzerland at the time.

The eponymous Jones caliber helped IWC establish its reputation in the early years of the company’s existence. This company produced its first pocket watch that evolved into its first wristwatch in 1885. The watches may look familiar at first glance, but you should know that they are not comparable to other high-end models you have seen.

Jaeger Lecoultre – The Watchmaker’s Watchmaker

Surprisingly, Jaeger and IWC share a common history. JLC was founded in Le Sentier, Switzerland, in 1833 – 189 years ago – by Antoine as a small watchmaking shop after he invented a device for cutting watch pinions from steel. Antoine, like IWC’s founder, F. A. Jones, was a visionary who invented the most accurate time measurement instrument and a keyless rewind system of the era.

From the get-go, JLC combined all aspects of watchmaking under one roof: a heritage they’ve kept to date. Unsurprisingly, they became the most valuable company in the Swiss region of Vaud due to their impressive production capacity, using machines and hiring over 400 employees. That’s an impressive feat for a company in the 1800s.

Today, Jaeger LeCoultre is known as the master of complications, with over 1,300 unique calibers under their microscope. They also supply movements to high-end luxury watchmakers like Rolex, AP, and Patek Philippe, hence, their alias, “the watchmaker’s watchmaker.”

Craftsmanship

You can expect no less than the finest craftsmanship on any timepiece from both brands. But they use different patent finishing and quality control techniques to achieve that indestructible and elegant aesthetic of upper-market luxury watches.

Jaeger LeCoultre, for example, runs a 1000-hour control test on every watch that ships out of the factory. IWC, on the other hand, opens the doors to its 14-000 square-foot factory for anyone who wants to learn about its sophisticated craftmanship through virtual or in-person fan tours. It shamelessly showcases IWC’s first-class equipment, movement-making prowess, and world-class craftsmanship. It’s another area both IWC and JLC outshine upscale competitors, and you’d see in detail in their Brand Prestige comparison.

Jaeger and IWC also use handmade alligator or calfskin leather straps, titanium steel, precious metals, and rubber straps that are tough and comfortable. In addition, IWC offers an EasX CHANGE system that allows users to swap bands like an Apple watch in its Big Pilot series. Notwithstanding, it’s a close call on which brand has the most sophisticated craftsmanship, but Jaeger LeCoultre wins, with a bias towards their A-Z in-house manufacturing process.

Brand Prestige

Jaeger LeCoultre and IWC watches have gained considerable prestige in their respective century-old existence. And our overlords with a rich history and brand image that stands out even in ultra-high-end luxury watch scenes. But it’s insensitive to hold one’s prestige over the other as their values appeal to different audiences.

Jaeger LeCoultre is the “watchmaker’s watchmaker” because, unlike many luxury brands, they create, design, manufacture, and curate all timepiece parts under one roof. And they’ve continued to supply some of the best luxury watchmakers with movements over the decades. With this history, super-complications, and limited yearly production, JLC is a collector and enthusiast favorite.

While IWC doesn’t have the credibility of complete in-house production, they’ll appeal to a sustainability-conscious wearer. The watchmaking industry receives rightful hot backlash from environmental activists and agencies over the sourcing and processing of its precious metals and gems.

IWC is a frontrunner in this war and was ranked no.1 among 15 major watch manufacturers, which includes Jaegar LeCoultre and big names like Rolex, Omega, Tissot, and Audemars Piguet. However, most watch collectors and enthusiasts would value JLC’s consistency in making all timepiece parts under one roof. Therefore, Jaeger LeCoultre has numbers on its side as the more prestigious luxury watchmaker over IWC.

Brand Recognition: The 8th and 11th Best Swiss Watchmakers

While their brand prestige is a choice between values, recognition boils down to popularity and revenue, which is objective. And if we’re talking numbers, IWC has the upper hand with an estimated worth of 779 million CHF (Swiss Francs) over JLC’s 673 million CHF value. They’re also the eighth and eleventh most valuable swiss watchmakers, respectively.

How do they stack up against Rolex, the world’s most renowned watchmaker? It’s not a close battle as Rolex is worth an estimated 7 billion CHF – nearly ten times more than IWC – to top the Interbrand study list.

Fun fact: both brands are subsidiaries of Richemont Group (includes brands like Cartier, Vacheron Constantin Montblanc, Piaget SA, A. Lange & Söhne), a luxury goods holding company worth about 13 billion euros.

However, IWC are traditional watchmakers focusing on crafting complicated watch movements for watch lovers. JLC clarifies this concept using the chic and classy Queen’s Gambit star Anya Taylor-Joy as their ambassador for their flagship Reverso. Far from the Rolex ideology of aggressive marketing to different fields and as a symbol of wealth and power. Ironically, it’s not surprising for an IWC or Jaeger LeCoultre owner to have a Rolex in their collection.

Warranty: The Richemont Group Privilege

JLC and IWC recently introduced an extended warranty option, perhaps as a Richemont group procedure. With this extended guarantee, you may add an extra six years to the standard 2-year warranty of your watch. Generally, you can enjoy coverage for up to 8 years with both brands, which is longer than the average five years warranty from ultra-luxury watchmakers like Rolex and two years from entry-level brands.

IWC and JLC require registration for their respective MY IWC and Jaeger LeCoultre CARE programs to qualify for this extended warranty period. Therefore, you must complete the registration process for an extension while your watch is still under warranty.

Watch Comparison: IWC Aquatimer vs. JLC Polaris

Remember that these comparisons only apply to each company’s most recent model.
Although there are specific differences between both brands. Even though both brands produce elegant C-level executive-type watch designs, it still needs to be determined which one is superior.

The Jaeger LeCoultre Polaris has a titanium case with a limited edition white-gold color. Whereas IWC’s Aquatimer has a stainless steel case, matte black dial, and specialty leather bracelet with a quick-change system to swap between the rubber and stainless steel straps.

Style and Design

IWC is way more unique than LeCoultre in style and design, and this characteristic elevates this watch to the same level as its rival. Jaeger LeCoultre consists of a stainless steel case finish with bright dials and a white gold bracelet. IWC, on the other hand, is made of mate dial plates and mate body in the leather bracelet. IWC allows their designers to choose the color, which comes with a mate body and panel finish.

Special Features

Although the IWC is a diving watch, it resembles the sporty design of the Polaris. Also, they can both withstand pressure up to 1000 feet underwater. In addition, they both come in a white and yellow gold edition, water resistant, and Cartier special.

Price: Portofino VS JLC Master Control

LeCoultre and IWC are almost evenly matched when it comes to price. Both brands offer several pricey models that are reasonable for both businesses, given their quality and quantity. Each offers versions with prices around $30,000 and entry-level models starting at about $3,000 apiece.

The Yes: IWC watches

  • Trademark quick-change bracelet system
  • Inner-rotating bezel and lightweight titanium case
  • Best environmental conscious watchmaker

The No: IWC Watches

  • Off the shelf 7750 movements

The Yes: Jaeger LeCoultre

  • Manufactured 100% in-house
  • Innovative movement complications
  • Timeless dress watch collections

The No: Jaeger LeCoultre

  • Might be unknown to non-watch enthusiasts

IWC Portuguese Auto Vs. JLC Master Control

Both watches cost almost the same price, and they have amazing functions. However, it might not be easy to decide which one to buy. Here is a brief description of the design and functions of these two extraordinary watches:

IWC Portuguesier Auto

With an automatic date at 6 o’clock, a plain white dial, chronograph replacing 9 and 3 o’clock, the Portugieser maintains a simple design like the debut 1930s version. But unlike the 36mm case in the old version, IWC increased its size to 40mm and adorned it with a refined contemporary finish.

The stainless steel casing has a warm tone that accentuates its gold-plated hands and indices. Its caliber 82200 movement is made in-house with ceramic components and boasts a Pellaton winding mechanism with a 60-hour power reserve. And you can admire the complications through its see-through sapphire glass back.

JLC Master Control

JLC’s Master Control collection, with its celebrated round design, has become a flagbearer for the brand since its debut thirty years ago. The recent Master Control Date adds date and time features to the dial while staying simple. The 40mm casing, hands, and indexes for this watch are all stainless steel. To reduce friction and increase efficiency, the escapement and pallet of the watch’s Caliber 899 movement have been upgraded for the Master Control Date.

And it provides up to 70 hours of power reserve before manual winding. Jaeger LeCoultre’s most complicated wristwatch, the Hybris Mechanica (with 26 complications) and only 30 pieces made, costs $2.5 million. While the Siderale Scafusia is one of IWC’s most complicated watches, which costs around $750,000.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why Are JLC Watches So Expensive?

Jaeger LeCoultre is an almost 200-year-old pioneer in the watchmaking industry. JLC designs and manufactures its timepieces by hand under one roof – and is the first to achieve this feat. And JLC produces less than 40,000 watches yearly, making them valued as ultra-luxury watches.

What kind of person wears IWC?

Only true watch lovers, collectors, and reserved personalities proudly wear the IWC or Jaegar. A person who wears an IWC watch wants values sophisticated watch movements and prefers a discreet show of her wealth or affluence. If you’re looking to wear a luxury watchmaker that sends eyes gazing, you’ll be better off with a Rolex or Richard Mille.

Is JLC better than Cartier?

The Jaeger-LeCoultre brand is considered more prestigious than Cartier. JLC is an ultra-high-end and super watch producer, whereas Cartier is regarded as a jewelry brand. Also, Cartier watches typically have a relatively lower resale value and complications in general.

Final Thoughts: IWC or Jaeger LeCoultre?

And there you have it, an in-depth comparison between IWC and JLC watch brands. If you are more movement and accuracy fanatic, Jaeger LeCoultre is the better brand. And IWC is a better case maker, eco-friendly, and marketable brand.

It’s why IWC is more valuable, and you’d spend just as much for both of them as you would on any upscale luxury watch. What are your thoughts? Browse our collection of IWC and Jaeger LeCoultre watches.

Longines Vs. Rolex Watches (Is The King Overpriced?)

James Ede

November 30, 2022

If you’re new to the luxury watch scene, it’s easy to quickly say “Longines or Rolex” is a brain-dead comparison. See it this way. Rolex is the number one watchmaker in the world, and any timepiece from the brand is synonymous with wealth, craftsmanship, and engineering wonder.

Longines is also a prestigious watchmaker with a long and successful history. It’s been one of the top 5 swiss watchmakers for centuries and produces precision watches that appeal to a mass audience. But how do they compare with the King, Rolex?

Folks come in asking about these two brands, so we’ve shared this guide to explain all you need to know. Whether you’re trying to choose between buying a vintage Longines or considering if a Rolex is worth saving up for, you’ll find answers. This article explains their history, craftsmanship, watch quality, popularity, and price to help you make an informed decision.

Similarities and Differences Between Longines And Rolex

It’s always a long read to cherish the culture of a watchmaker, so here’s a summary of their similarities and differences before we dive in.

Similarities

  • Both are Swiss watchmakers
  • They are both older than a century
  • Both make precise mechanical watches
  • Both started with a different name
  • Both created their masterpieces with outside help
  • Both offer COSC-certified watches

Differences

  • Longines is an entry-level luxury watch brand, while Rolex is both a luxury and ultra-luxury brand.
  • Rolex has a 5-year warranty, whereas Longines offers a 2-year limited warranty. 
  • It’s cheaper and more convenient to buy replacement straps for a Longines watch than a Rolex

Now let’s dive deeper into the history of these prestigious watchmakers to unearth the values and traditions that kept them in business.

Longines’ Long and Rich History

Longines Watches

Longines was established in 1832 by Auguste Agassiz in the mountains of St Imier, Switzerland.
Because of Auguste’s partnerships with two lawyers, Henri Raguel and Florian Morel, the company was initially called Raiguel Jeune & Cie. After the duo retired fourteen years later, Auguste assumed sole ownership.

Auguste then set the wheel of success and prestige in motion when he brought in his nephew, Ernest Francillon, as a mentor years later. His mentee made a bold first impression of producing only crown-wound pocketwatches in an era of key-wound pocket watches (time flies!). So Auguste ultimately passed on the company to Ernest when he retired from weary health.

Under Ernest Francillon, the swiss watch manufacturer focused on mass production in the 1860s. He built a solid reputation for Longines, but they soon became the target of counterfeiters, who stole business and nearly tarnished that image (crucial for a luxury watch company). So he patented the company name in 1880 and registered the oldest valid trademark, Longines’ iconic winged hourglass logo, in 1889.

They survived and flourished well into the 1980s with constant innovative designs while still affordable. Longines joined the 35 billion dollars valued Swatch Group – which includes big wigs like Omega SA, ETA, and Tissot – in the 1980s. The Saint-Imier-based watchmaker now uses movements from ETA (a prestigious conglomerate of swiss movement manufacturers). It’s not the best look for a luxury brand to outsource movement making, but it is perfect for Longines’ dedication to mass production.

Mass-Production Marketing

Longines’ quick transition to mass production started under Ernest Francillon when he built the factory in 1867. But we must credit the genius of his Technical Director, Jacques Davido, who ran the factory and created its first in-house movement in the same year – the 20A. Since then, they’ve sealed their place in history books as one of the largest watch brands with retailers and distributors worldwide.

Fun fact: Longines is named after the field its factory has sat on since 1867. It was called Es Longines, meaning the “Long Meadow.”

Rolex’s Century-Old Quest for First

3 Rolex watches on display

Rolex entered the watchmaking industry relatively late but came in with a bang in 1905. The brand was first known as Wilsdorf and Davis but changed to Rolex SA in 1920 (and moved to Geneva, Switzerland).

A 24-year-old, Hans Wilsdorf, and his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, established the company in London. It all started as a hustle. They imported Hermann Aegler Swiss movements, fit them in Dennison watch cases (all iconic watchmakers in their right), and sold them to Jewelers (without branding).

Rolex released many firsts, but the creation of the renowned oyster case – still used in most Rolex watches – put them on the trajectory of world domination in 1926. Hans Wilsdorf’s innovation was sparked by an issue of water and dust damaging watch movements. So he hired a case maker to build the world’s first waterproof and dustproof watch. He bought the patent from the innovators and marketed aggressively and exclusively – a tradition Rolex has held on to.

Exclusivity Marketing

Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf, believes, “Only marketing is needed to make a company successful.” Some of his many striking campaigns include displaying Rolex oyster watches in aquariums at their point-of-sale stores. But Hans’s genius 1927 marketing put Rolex on the map, as we hinted earlier. He gave an oyster-cased necklace watch to Mercedes Glietze as she prepared to become the first British woman to swim the English Channel.

The neck watch remained accurate and completely dry after the 10-hour swim in murky waters. In typical Rolex fashion, Hans Wilsdorf brilliantly advertised the historic feat on Daily Mail’s front page for a month straight. Since its inception, the brand has used this strategy of gifting pioneers appropriate Rolex watches to test in the field.

The first people to summit Mount Everest, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, for example, wore Rolex watches and were honored with the release of the Explorer models. Today, Rolex combines aggressive marketing, sponsorships, and limited supply to seal its place as one of the most valuable watchmakers in history.

If you didn’t know, Tudor is a Rolex subsidiary targeting enthusiasts who want a “cheap” Rolex – they use similar cases and bracelets but use off-the-shelf movements. Rolex has continued the tradition by sponsoring prestigious events, signing artists and sports icons, and testing timepieces in historic expeditions.

Fun fact: Rolex is a private firm operated through the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation (no public shares).

Prestige And Popularity

Longines and Rolex control half of the Swiss watch market shares along with Omega and Cartier. So we know they both sell like crazy, even though Longines has to achieve this with more units sold. In recent research, they dropped to fifth but remained a force to reckon with. Rolex, however, is in a different league and more in competition with brands like Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet for prestige for world domination.

I won’t be surprised if anyone knew about Rolex watches since they were teenagers, but it will amaze me if they know Longines. Rolex outshines Longines mainly because they not only market to high society circles but also target mainstream media. As a result, Rolex is present in the entertainment, sports, arts, exploration, technology, and even the wildlife scene, with sponsorships, endorsements, and loyal fans doubling as influencers.

Longines And High-Life Sponsorships

The St-Imier-based watchmaker, started supplying prestigious New York sporting officials as far back as the 1800s. With such early momentum, you’d already expect Longines to be a behemoth in mainstream sports. But instead, they only dominate elegant sporting events like horse racing, archery, and equestrianism.

Longines is the official timekeeper of the FEI Show Jumping World Cup, Archery World Cup, French Open, and Commonwealth Games. They even sponsored Formula One during the 1980s and continue to support other international skiing and horse racing events.

Rolex And Planet Domination

Rolex’s official sponsorships go deeper than sports into sea and space exploration, wildlife and arctic research, motorsports to yachting, and equestrian sports. They are also timekeepers for multicultural organizations and political leaders.

The Swiss luxury brand boasts o durability by regularly giving explorers, researchers, and astronauts Rolex watches on their expeditions. As a result, Rolex watches have survived space, the deepest ocean dives, arctic regions, and the highest mountains.

Rolex doesn’t fail to leave a mark in sports. Almost every sporting legend has at one time been a Rolex ambassador. In addition, they’re official sponsors of all four grand slam (U.S, Wimbledon, French, and Australian Open) tournaments and the Paris, Monte-Carlo, and Shanghai Masters. It’d take a long-form blog post to capture the depth of Rolex’s reach in sports, arts, and exploration.

See the list of superstars and celebs who’ve worn either watch brand to compare:

Most Iconic Rolex Wearers

  • Paul Newman – his Rolex Daytona (Ref. 6239) is the most expensive watch Rolex sold at an auction
  • Roger Federer
  • British Royal Family
  • Too many notable figures to mention

Most Iconic Longines Wearers

  • Charles Lindbergh
  • Albert Einstein
  • Jennifer Lawrence
  • Humprey Bogart
  • British Royal Family
  • Andre Agassi

Hopefully, you’ll notice a trend of how Rolex attracts only the best of the best. As a result, it’s not fair fighting ground regarding who’s more famous between both brands. So, let’s see who fairs better in craftsmanship.

Craftsmanship

Avid horologists know it’s not just telling time that makes a luxury brand but its prestige, complications, and attention to detail, among others. Look at it this way, the Swiss industry is known for world-class watchmaking, and Rolex and Longines use the best crop. While Longines and Rolex employ world-class artists, the quality of their timepieces varies as much as we want to think Rolex is overpriced. Here’s an overview of how they craft watch parts.

Cases

The most common case material both swiss watchmaking behemoths use is stainless steel. The Longines steel is known to be durable and reasonably scratch-resistant, simply as durable as a Rolex. But Rolex uses a patent steel material, Oystersteel, which is exclusive to the brand and has been field-tested in the harshest conditions, as you’ve learned earlier.

Movements

The two brands produce mechanical movements in-house, but Rolex makes it a tradition. The Swiss watchmaker stopped all production of quartz movement in 2001 after 30 years of experiments. The dedication to in-house production and obtaining COSC accuracy certifications could take a year to produce one Rolex timepiece.

Nevertheless, the traditional craftsmanship of the Geneva-based watchmaker is what many watch lovers, enthusiasts, and collectors value over any Longines. That’s not to say Longines movements are inferior. However, they also produce Quartz movements that are cheaper and unartistic to most connoisseurs.

But the dealbreaker is that Longines’ mechanical movements also come from their sister company ETA SA, not in-house. Nevertheless, they are still reputable watchmakers, with an output of only 20 percent quartz watches and 80% mechanical movements. But the attention to detail and finishing of Rolex is unmatched.

Bracelets

We see a similar trend of functionality and exclusivity in making Longines and Rolex bracelets. The former makes durable watches that are readily available for replacement. But Rolex bracelets combine durability, exclusivity, and function.

These qualities justify the price gap between both brands that you’ll see soon in this article. For one, Longines sells replacement stainless steel, leather, rubber, and NATO straps that you can swap for under $300. In addition, you can have a collection of watch bands to dress different occasions.

Meanwhile, only Rolex Cellini models use a leather strap, and you must contact their service center for a replacement bracelet (of any Rolex watch). Also, Rolex’s Oysterflex rubber bracelet is only available in 18-carat gold editions of the Yachtmaster, Daytona, and Sky-Dweller. Finally, Rolex’s celebrated stainless steel bracelets, the Oyster and Jubillee, are highly scratch-resistant and comfortable with on-the-fly micro-adjustments.

Here’s the thing. A typical Rolex strap replacement costs anywhere from $1,000 to about $5,000 and could take weeks. You must have the corresponding watch model as proof, plus Rolex keeps the old band. It’s this exclusive in-house servicing that makes Rolex more valuable. But Longines gives the owners to buy straps online or at an authorized local watch repair shop.

Ultimately, Rolex bracelets are one of the best in – if not the best – industry. Longines can only be proud that its straps are durable and comfortable, not compete with Rolex.

Price Is A Big Rolex Win

Rolex is unsurprisingly out of Longines’ league for watch price points. The cheapest new or used Rolex costs more than 10x the price of a Longines. To put it in perspective, a Rolex Datejust (the brand’s most affordable collection) costs around $5,000 to $6,000, and a Longines Conquest V.H.P. (their most inexpensive model) for under $1000.

It looks unfair to compare a Longines’ quartz watch to a Rolex. So we’ll size up Longines flagship line, the HydroConquest, which costs anywhere from $1200 to around $2,500. That’s still less than two times the price of a Rolex Datejust.

Although some critics appeal that Rolex watches are overpriced, they’re clearly in different luxury brand categories. Longines (entry-level luxury) has focused on mass production for nearly 200 years, but Rolex becomes more exclusive by the year (ultra-luxury brand).

Comparing Longines HydroConquest To The Rolex Submariner

Coming off a price revelation, it’s only practical you see what makes the difference with a side-to-side comparison of both watchmakers’ watches. For this, we use pit Longines HydroConquest against Rolex’s flagship diver’s watch (this is a hot debate among watch connoisseurs).

HydroConquest ref. L3.883.4.96.9 Vs. Submariner

This won’t be an apples-to-apples comparison. It will take an entire post to cover. But you’ll understand why Longines might appeal to you and not just drool over Rolex’s glaring value. That’s why the price difference is the first thing that jumps at you between the two watchmaker’s diver’s watch collections.

The HydroConquest ref. L3.883.4.96.9 (the most expensive model) costs around $3,000, and a Submariner No Date ref. 114060 (one of the cheapest models) costs anywhere from $11,000 to about $15,000. What makes Rolex more expensive? Do they have superior features to Longines’? Or are they overpriced, as rumored?

Diving

The HydroConquest can reach depths of 300 meters, while the Rolex Submariner is field tested for 300 meters. Of course, most wearers won’t take a swim to talk less of a dive with either, but it’s refreshing to know they’re equal in dive capacities.

Steel Casing and Bracelet

Both watches have corrosion-resistant ceramic bezels for underwater use and stainless steel case and bracelets. But the Submariner dorns Rolex’s famous and more functional oyster bracelet. Also, unlike the HydroConquest or any Longines steel strap, you can adjust the Submariner’s bracelet to 5mm without using tools to remove links.

In-House Movements

The Longines HydroConquest uses a self-winding automatic caliber that beats at 25,200 vibrations per hour. It’s built in-house and has a 40-hour battery reserve. On the other hand, Rolex’s Submariner No Date also uses a self-winding, in-house movement, the 3235 caliber. However, it’s two steps ahead of the HydrConquest, with its magnetic field resistance and 42-hour battery reserve feature.

Whether these features are worth the $12,000 value difference and hassle is up to you. If you are searching for a functional diver’s watch, the HydroConquest is well-qualified. But a connoisseur, wealthy fanboy, or diver would prefer a Submariner to stack his collection, enjoy the symbol status, or the battery edge.

Does Longines Retain Value?

Like any luxury watch brand, you may wonder if buying a Longines watch would prove a good investment. Of course, many folks buy a Rolex to hedge against inflation, but you may see a different value in a Longines.

Rolex is hailed as the King of Resale Value for a good reason. It’s basic economics. Demand for Rolex watches outstrips supply straight from the factory, so authorized dealerships are always out of stock or carry older models. So instead, determined investors or buyers shop from trusted online dealers, preferably with a verifiable store, but pay more than the official retail price.

Exquisite Timepieces, for instance, sells authentic, pre-owned, and unworn Rolex watches online and in-store in Florida. The only way you’re getting a Rolex effortlessly is if you’re an ambassador or notable figure who received one as a gift. Conversely, Longines has an official online store, and many trusted stores and distributors worldwide.

Read that again. Yes, distributors too. So you see how Rolex is the king of resale? Ultimately, the resale value – for any watch – depends on the previous owner’s status, model, and condition. Typically, a Rolex could see a 16% to over 100% increase in two years, but only a mint-condition Longines will scratch this value.

Pros of Longines

  • Affordable
  • Prestigious Swiss watchmaker
  • Micro-adjustable leather straps
  • Can be bought without a “wait list” in stores
  • Oldest active trademark logo
  • COSC-certified

Cons of Longines

  • No micro-adjustment in stainless steel bracelets
  • ETA-made caliber

Pros Of Rolex

  • Most valuable swiss watch manufacturing brand
  • One of the best bracelets in the watch industry
  • King of resale value
  • Exclusivity
  • All watch parts are made in in-house
  • COSC certified chronographs

Cons of Rolex

  • Time-consuming after-sale service due to exclusivity
  • Overwhelming replicas and fakes

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Longines Considered A Luxury Watch?

Yes, Longines is a luxury brand established in the 1800s. Although they use quartz movements, they also build mechanical movements in-house at their St-Imier factory. However, Longines is an entry-level watch brand offering watches that cost around $1,500 to about $7.000.

Is Longines an Entry Level Watch?

Yes, Longines carries many entry-level watches that cost anywhere from $1,000 to $2,000. Their best-selling models, Flagship Heritage and Conquest, sell for around as low as $1,500 and $800, respectively. However, some of their more pricy models with precious metals and complications, like the 47.50MM Longines Weems Second Setting Watch, sell for over $20,000.

Longines Vs. Rolex: Final Thoughts

In the end, Rolex is a better luxury watchmaker than Longines. As the largest swiss brand, it produces all its parts exclusively in-house, sponsors all walks of life, signals success, and is the king of resale value.

If you don’t fancy the attention and time-consuming after-sale service, Longines will appeal to you. And prefer a prestigious yet affordable vintage or modern timepiece. But if I had to pick between a Rolex and Longines (with no budget), I’d grab a Rolex model without a second thought.

What do you think? Was the Longines vs. Rolex comparison a fair battle? If you found this comparison interesting, share it with other watch lovers and collector friends in your circle. Check out the Exquisite Timepiece store for authentic, new, and pre-owned Rolex and Longines masterpieces.

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