Author: James Ede

“Tick-tock, tick-tock, tick-tock”. If you suddenly notice this sound from your Rolex, there are two things involved: you either bought a knock-off model, or you own the classic Oysterquartz. Now, your heart’s pacing. You’re furious, maybe even disappointed; your dealer had the audacity to sell a counterfeit. 

Relax. All watches tick. But unlike cheap quartz watches, Rolex watches don’t keep time in the traditional tick-tock fashion. In this article, you’ll learn all about how Rolex watches tick and how the myth they don’t started.

The Origin of the Myth

There’s no denying that many people got into the luxury watch market as a direct result of pop culture. But while I’m not a traditional gatekeeping-type watch enthusiast, I believe you should never let trends influence your taste. You’ll be robbed into splurging and thinking you got a bargain because your favorite artist wore one in a music video.

Meanwhile, you’d have passed on better or comparable affordable options because they’re not trendy.  How is this related to the Swiss luxury watch ticking? The myth started when arguably the greatest rapper alive, Jay Z, said, “Rollies that don’t tick-tock”. This braggadocious lyric has been used by countless artists since then, including A-Listers like Lil Durk and Future. It’s true to some extent, but it’s practically impossible for a watch not to “tick-tock.” 

What Does It Mean When A Watch Ticks? 

The thing about watches is that they all tick. I mean, there’s a sound associated with time itself. You guessed right, “tick-tock tick-tock”. Now why do they make that sound? 

To be clear, the volume of a watch’s movement depends on factors like case material, material quality, escapement components, and sometimes, the manufacturer. The general rule of thumb is that timepieces made with cheap, lightweight materials tick the loudest.  

But this isn’t always the case; some watches, like models with a pin-lever escapement, generally tick loudly because they use metal instead of jewel pins. And quartz movements are usually quieter than mechanical watches, as they contain fewer or no moving parts. 

Anyway, a watch ticks to keep the time running. How it ticks is a direct representation of its internal components/engine/caliber. Or, better yet, its movement. Mechanical watches like Rolex tick faster because they use a complicated mechanical movement rather than quartz, which is a cheaper alternative even though it’s more accurate. 

It’s for this reason, and of course, as a status symbol, that many watch enthusiasts remain watch enthusiasts. And Rolex has been on top of the movement engineering game for decades to keep hardcore enthusiasts infatuated and aesthetic buyers drooling. 

Let’s talk more about how Rolex and mechanical watches tick differently. More specifically, the reason why A-list rappers believe they don’t tick-tock. 

The Sweeping Motion of Rolex and Mechanical Watches

Rolex watches have a second hand that appears to glide through the dial rather than tick-tock. It’s not restricted to the brand, nor is it a novelty. All mechanical watches tick at varying frequencies, including dirt-cheap ones, which are typically faster than quartz. So it gives the illusion that the hand isn’t ticking. 

Here’s what goes on behind the dial. A mainspring passes power into an escapement mechanism, which then saves energy by passing it through a couple of gears to the watch hands. 

Inside the escapement, a balance wheel swings back and forth like a pendulum, while a pallet fork restricts its movement per second to stay accurate. It’s the speed of this pause-and-start interaction that makes the second-hand in mechanical watches tick in a sweep motion.

Mechanical movement watches with a faster balance wheel keep time more accurately and reliably than slower ones. They usually tick between four, six, and eight times per second, or 21,600, 28,000, or 36,000 bph (beats per hour), respectively. 

The only exception is in specialty or vintage watches, like the Antoine Martin Slow Runner 1 Hz, which beats once per second. It took Martin Braun building the largest escapement to achieve this feat in The Slow Runner. But quartz watches achieve this accuracy only at a fraction of the cost of engineering. 

Rolex watches tick 8 times a second, 8 hertz, or 28,000 vph (vibrations per hour). Listen to the tick-tock of the Rolex Submariner, played at 0.25 playback speed, below. 

Rolex Making the Tick-Tock Sound: A Video

In truth, this is a display of outstanding craftsmanship and engineering. If you listen even closer, you can hear the mechanical tune of the balance wheel and gears grinding to set the wheels of time in motion. But it also shows undeniable evidence that “Rollies tick-tock”. Listen with a headset if you’re still in denial. 

Rather than beat on the count of a second, they beat non-stop to make a second and need to be wound when they run out of juice. So this is why Jay Z and the hip hop community consider only a Rolex that “doesn’t tick tock” the symbol of authenticity. 

Quartz watches, on the other hand, beat only once, exactly on the second, which is more efficient and accurate. You’ll see why soon. If that’s your situation, it’s true that a “Rolex doesn’t tick”. It’s most likely a knockoff Rolex with a quartz movement. 

So if you’re asking if a Rolex jerks per second, the answer is no. Only the Oysterquartz (discontinued in 2001) tick-tocks.

Quartz Watches vs Mechanical Watches

Now we’ve established how Rolex does and doesn’t tick. Here’s why quartz watches beat at a single beat per second. And why they’re better timekeepers than any mechanical watch. It’s quite a simple process. 

A quartz crystal is piezoelectric; it can absorb electrical current and convert it into mechanical energy, which powers watch hands. A battery-powered electric circuit sends current to the crystal, which then vibrates 32,768 times in a second. 

The circuit monitors these frequencies and pushes the second hand forward on exactly every 32,768th vibration, which creates that one-tick-per-second (tick-tock) motion. In other words, it’s extremely accurate, just like using a smartphone or computer, since it’s programmed on a circuit board. 

As you can imagine, this is a cheaper and more reliable system than mechanical movements, which require higher expertise and more materials. Not to mention regular maintenance of the engine. All a quartz watch needs is a battery change and regular cleaning. So it’s no surprise that many watchmakers closed down when quartz watches first hit the market in 1970.

The Rolex Datejust OysterQuartz – the first and only Quartz Rolex

The Rolex Oysterquartz is symbolic of a dark era for the luxury watch market – the Quartz Crisis. While some may see it as proof of desperation from the Swiss watch manufacturer, it’s also evidence of stellar engineering and innovation. Rolex spent five years developing two movements that toppled the quartz movement of the day.

And so, in 1977, they dished out what seemed like a Datejust or Day-Date with a quartz movement. It’s still available today as a collector’s watch. It has the dial of a DateJust but with an angular case, an integrated bracelet, and an over-engineered quartz movement.

Some enthusiasts call this movement a hybrid because it was way ahead of its time. It has 11 jewels, a lever escapement, and can self-regulate for super precision. Nonetheless, the point here is that this is the only Rolex watch that tick-tocks.  

Rolex Mechanical Watch Movements

Manual winding watch movements require you to wind the crown when the power reserve runs out (worn or not). Rolex has a handful of them; the majority of their current models carry an automatic movement.

The most iconic hand-wound Rolex I’ve seen so far is the Rolex Cellini Vintage 1974, ref. 4083. Or Rolex Cellini 50505 in an 18k gold case. There’s no denying that this collection was the brand’s flagship for a taste of elegance and classic dress watches.

Yet it offers exceptional value for the money, as far as high-end luxury dress watches are concerned. It’s now reborn in the Rolex 1908 collection and newer Cellini models with automatic movements. The point here is that Rolex’s mechanical watches tick in a sweeping motion.   

Rolex Automatic Movements

The go-to for Rolex luxury watch brands is the self-winding mechanical movement. This kind of movement charges the mainspring for as long as you wear the watch. Using kinetic energy, a rotor behind a case back swings in rhythm with your wrist movement, automatically coiling the mainspring. When unused, it keeps time until the power reserve is depleted.

Current versions of Rolex’s automatic movements beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph).  Alternatively, 8 ticks per second would facilitate the highest level of precision and reliability. Although we’ve seen varying frequencies over the years, Rolex has never produced a movement with a single beat per second. One thing Jay Z was right about, though, was when he said: “Audemars, that’s losing time”. 

Debunking The Myth: “Rolex Watches Don’t Tick”

I hope this article comprehensively and adequately answers the question, “Does a Rolex tick?” for anyone curious. Surely, with this clarity, you understand why giving a straight answer is hard because the question can come from different viewpoints. 

If you’re a fan of rap and have heard the infamous Jay-Z line, he’s fundamentally wrong about Rollies that don’t tick-tock. The second-hand ticks voraciously fast, so it appears as if it’s sweeping the dial. In Jiggaman’s defense, though, it was a sick rhyme to the previous line. Maybe J. Hova meant to say they don’t tick, but they sweep. 

However, if you’re a curious watch owner, then you’re right to be anxious; a Rolex never ticks. Only the vintage Oysterquartz tick-tocks every second. An authentic Rolex watch should “tick-tocks” 8 times per second.  

It’s true most luxury watches are not blingy timepieces and could pass as regular watches to the uninitiated eyes. But at the top of the food chain are the iced-out, bust-down, or diamond-studded watches only a few people ever dream of owning. 

Made popular by hip-hop culture, Rolex has a handful of iced-out watches in its collections. They aren’t exactly eye candy like bust downs from personal jewelers like Ice Box, but an ode to the art of gem setting. 

Rolex makes the mark in the top 1 percent of horology and is a relatively affordable manufacturer of diamond-encrusted or gem-adorned timepieces. It’s aftermarket retailers that make outrageous amounts on them by hiking prices because of their exclusivity. In this article, I’ll share their journey into making iced watches and the most notable models available for investment. 

Understanding Factory Iced Out Rolex Watches

Iced-out watches are only considered statement fashion pieces. But while they might be a showpiece of class, wealth, and power, they’re also solid lifetime investments. Apparently, in the resale market, diamonds really are forever; the price for Rolex stones can only go up. 

The Origins

Rolex started dishing out iced-out watches during the 60s and 70s. As you’d imagine, these orders were restricted to notable individuals; athletes, government officials, and tycoons. Shortly after, they were introduced to their catalog for anyone who could afford them to buy around the 80s. 

Now, Rolex offers hundreds of iced-out watch models, mostly dress watches, available to anyone at authorized dealers. They are categorized as “gem-set” but with varying degrees, from diamond-set bezels and dials to fully iced-out models with diamond or precious stones all around. 

There’s a caveat, though; although Rolex actively produces iced-out watches for the public, they’re extremely rare to find at authorized dealers. But they are more readily available on the resale market, with most going for six figures. 

The Process

Like most watchmakers, we can’t really tell the exact process that goes into their production. Well, maybe you can see it for yourself if you find yourself privileged to go on an exclusive excursion into the Rolex factory.

However, Rolex is generous enough to give us a tasteful idea of precious stone selection and gem setting. Unsurprisingly, the diamonds and stones that make the cut – pun intended – meet the highest standard of the jewelry industry. 

The in-house Rolex gemmology department has only one job – picking the “best of the best” gems. More specifically, they are of the highest ratings for clarity, color, and cut. Rolex, for example, uses only IF (Internally Flawless) stones, which are high up in the grading scales of gemmology. 

In this light, their diamonds fall in the D to G, and gemstones are hand-picked for color consistency. The kicker is these are rare stones to get a hold of and the most expensive any custom jeweler could probably use. When it comes to luxury, the only thing better than pristine craftsmanship is rarity. 

Rolex is one step ahead of hiring only masterful gem setters to create almost perfect iced-out watches.  While the Swiss watch company is proud of its culture, its world-class craftsmanship was never a debate. Iced-out Rolex watches are an eye candy when you consider the precise alignment of gems, their positioning, size, and refreshing aesthetics. 

The Oyster Perpetual Rainbow Daytona Cosmograph 116598RBOW is a great example. It’s a handcrafted Daytona with a rainbow graduated bezel set with 36 baguette-cut sapphires and 56 pure diamonds adorning the lugs of its yellow gold case. It retains pristine functionality, which is a testament to the perfection of Rolex gem setting. 

Rolex Gem-Setting Techniques 

Bead Setting – this is the most gem-setting technique you’ll see in an iced-out Rolex. It simply involves fixing the stones into holes drilled in the surface with a setting bur. Then three to five small bead-shaped metals hold them in place. Rolex has a liking for this technique, particularly in their watches with paved or encrusted surfaces.

Claw setting – It’s similar to the bead setting, but the metal prongs are longer. It involves three to six evenly spaced prongs placed around the stone or at its four corners. It makes the gem more visible and is usually used for round stones. 

Closed setting – is usually found on the hour markers of iced-out Rolex watches. A metal band encircles the stone to keep it in place. 

Channel or “baguette” setting – as its name implies, is used for a baguette or octagonal cut diamonds that can be set side-by-side. A precious metal is used as a channel to lay the gems without any prongs or beads holding them in place – it’s why it’s also known as the invisible setting.

Caring for Iced-Out Watches

Even knock-off iced-out watches require proper maintenance to keep that shine and not fall out with use. The good thing is that factory-set and aftermarket diamond Rolex watches can take a beating. Keeping the watch and stones in good condition only takes simple but essential best practices that you must be consistent with. 

The first one is to keep the watch in its original box any time it’s not in use. A harmless behavior of placing a diamond watch on a coffee table may cause a scratch that’ll shave thousands off its after-market value. Call me weird, but I’ll never take off a diamond watch if the case isn’t nearby, not for security, but for safety reasons. 

Also, among others, is to clean the watch with a lint-free cloth. Depending on how dirty it gets, you can wash a diamond Rolex in a soap and water solution using a soft toothbrush to get the gunk out. 

Ultimately, the safest and best way to clean your iced-out watch is to visit your dealer occasionally. You can take it as an opportunity to scope out what’s new in-store and build a relationship with the dealer and find deals faster. 

Factory Iced Out Rolex Watches vs Aftermarket Diamond Rolex Watches

Ha! The age-long beef between the purists and enthusiasts who really don’t care about how the bling gets on a watch. A factory-iced-out Rolex is adorned by the gem artists at Rolex with the purest of diamonds and retains the design and functionality of the standard models.

At the same time, an aftermarket diamond Rolex watch is a base model embellished with diamonds or gems by a third-party jeweler. Sounds harmless right? The most obvious issue pressing the purists is how it’s done. While we can argue that there are talented gem setters outside Rolex, the aftermarket can’t say the same.

A non-Rolex Jeweler has to break down (bust down) the watch before they can set the stones. The watch’s value significantly drops the instance any part is modified by anyone other than a Rolex engineer. And it’s not hard to see why. 

An aftermarket diamond Rolex puts authenticity into question and sometimes, may alter the structural design and functionality of the original. See this Cartier de Santos designed by celebrity jeweler Ze Frost for NBA superstar Lamelo Ball for example. While it’s extremely iced out, he received heavy backlash from fans and the watch community for ruining a perfectly good watch.

Nonetheless, good riddance to the purists; if you’re interested in an artistic, custom-iced-out Rolex than buying a factory-produced one, go for it. Depending on your taste, you’ll get an authentic aftermarket iced-out Rolex for cheaper than a factory iced-out equivalent. 

Factory-set Rolex diamond watches, on the other hand, are tested, trusted, pure, and rare. Even simple factory iced-out Rolexes (dial only) usually cost an extra $2,000 or 2-6x more than the standard model but retain value better in the resale market. 

Iced Out Rolex Collections 

Now let’s get familiar with factory-iced-out Rolex watch models. 

Rolex Datejust 

The Datejust may be the most affordable Rolex, but the iced-out models from the Swiss watchmaker are anything but cheap. A simple yet extremely well-engineered iced-out model is the DateJust 36 126284RBR. It’s nothing like the “blingy” models you’d see in hip-hop videos, but classy nonetheless. 

This watch has an Oystersteel and white gold case, which should be the highlight of its simplicity, but that’s not the case. It’s the pure mother-of-pearl dial that is unique to only one owner – authentic, handmade mother-of-pearls are never the same.

Next, the hour makers on this one-of-a-kind dial are embellished with 18-carat diamonds in white gold settings (the entrapment holding the diamonds). Perhaps the most obvious “ice” on this DateJust 36 are the 18-carat diamonds on the bezel. But this artistic infusion of white gold, mother-of-pearl, bedazzled by diamonds cost a whopping retail price of $41,000. 

Rolex Daytona

The Daytona is a classic Rolex chronograph and racing watch attributed to fine life and the stars. World stars like Davido and Harry Kane can casually rock a factory-iced-out Rolex Daytona Rainbow because this half-a-million-dollar watch remains functional in the presence of gems. 

And it’s been spotted on celebrities like Post Malone, Mark Wahlberg, and David Beckham. We never drool over the paparazzi in our articles, but I’m making a point that they often rock the iced-out Rainbow Daytona as an everyday watch. 

This is the level of engineering and precision in gem setting that you can expect from every factory iced-out Rolex. The structure of the model is untainted, and there’s a machine-like alignment of the gems on the parts. The Daytona 116598RBOW-0001 is a true testament to this culture. 

The bezel is fitted with rainbow-patterned sapphire crystals that will leave a mistress bedazzled. And you’ll see 56 diamonds of varying sizes cut into its everose case along the lugs, cut with 36 rainbow-colored sapphire crystals and 56 18-carat diamonds of varying sizes adorn the case and lugs; it’s just as sporty as an Oystersteel Daytona. 

Rolex Day-Date 

The Iced Out Day-Date, “The President”, is arguably the genesis for mainstream iced-out watches. The most influential hip-hop stars have worn an iced Rolex Presidential at a point in their career. During the 80s and 90s, the new-generation rapper even made it a rite of passage to own one. Coincidentally, the Day-Date is one of Rolex’s most produced factory iced-out models.

There are so many variations with diamonds, but I’ve fallen in love with the Day-Date 128348RBR. This timepiece has a sunset orange dial set with diamond Roman hour markers and is finished in a yellow gold case and oyster bracelet with diamond-adorned center links. 

Rolex Yacht-Master

The Yacht-Master is another iconic watch that every enthusiast wants in their collection. It’s a core sports watch, so it’s very easy to disrupt the original design with over-the-top gem-setting. The Yacht-Master is the first chronograph with a bezel connected to the movement, which requires mind-blowing engineering. Rolex designers understood this assignment and simply stuck with a minimalist design. 

So, they placed all the jewels that would otherwise affect its functionality inside the factory iced-out mode. The Yacht-Master 268655 has a dial paved with dozens of diamond stones – and an everose gold rimmed bidirectional bezel to sail or play in class. And there’s this custom Ice Rolex Yacht Master II 44mm, though expensive, which is less valuable on the aftermarket and evidently less functional than the original.

Rolex GMT Master II 

The GMT-Master II is a luxury tool for professionals who want to keep track of local time in two to three time zones. It achieves this with a 12-hour graduation bezel and an extra (GMT) hour hand.

Unsurprisingly, there’s no factory-iced-out model of this watch in production. However, there are many custom iterations of this watch. Cagau makes some nice ones, like sapphire cut bezels matching the original colorway and diamond cases and bracelets. 

Rolex Submariner 

The Submariner is Rolex’s flagship diving watch and one of the more renowned timepieces ever. While it’s a spectacular diving watch with 300-meter water resistance and is highly corrosion resistant, owners rarely ever take a swim with it. The Submariner, even in stainless steel, is an everyday watch, statement piece, or collectible for enthusiasts. That said, copping an iced-out model, like the Submariner Ref. 116659SABR-0001 isn’t farfetched.

It’s set in a 40mm 18k white gold case and matching white gold oyster bracelet. The gem setting design is brilliant: white diamonds on the lugs and beautiful blue sapphire and diamond bezel. While it’s not practical to dive with a bust-down Submariner, you can comfortably rock one as a statement piece at events or even casual wear. 

Getting An Iced Out Rolex is a Lifestyle Choice 

There’s no way to sugarcoat it. Getting an iced-out Rolex watch is a choice of taste and has no clear benefits over the regular stainless steel or precious metal models. Most custom-iced-out Rolex watches end up dropping in value, but their owners love them regardless.

Final Thoughts

Iced-out Rolex watches have come a long way as a statement timepiece for the affluent. Whether it’s a factory set Rolex Daytona, custom GMT Master, or a replica DateJust with fake zirconia diamonds, the goal is to stand out and be classy. And cutting your style according to your budget and taste. But like for the enthusiast looking for a blingy Rolex to add to their collection, your choice is limited.

You want an authentic factory-set Rolex that retains its value on the market, either for future swapping purposes or to avoid the risk of buying a custom model with fake or inferior stones. Shop the Exquisite Timepieces store for exclusive factory-iced-out Rolex watches. 

The GMT and Submariner are some of the most popular Rolexes ever – and indistinguishable to some. Despite being almost identical at first glance, they have many different features and fundamental designs for separate audiences. All of which we’ll get into and then finally determine which collection stands out better. 

Before we head in, though, I’ll have you know that neither of these timepieces trumps the other. It’s literally going to be a review that helps you decide which one to get first because you won’t want to miss out on either the GMT or Submariner once you get to know them. 

Let’s get into it. 

Rolex GMT History 

The Rolex GMT-Master II was introduced in 1955 and quickly adopted by Airline pilots. It’s the fruit of Rolex’s stellar marketing prowess and ad campaigns. One of the early ways Rolex pushed the GMT was by partnering with Pan American Airways. 

In their 1969 catalog, Brian Trubshaw was to wear a GMT Master on his record-breaking flight as the first British pilot of Concorde, the fastest commercial airline ever, and also the first female British pilot to take a solo round-the-world flight in a single-engine plane, Sheila Scott. 

It’s safe to say the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master also debuted – and remains – a specialist watch for aviators, ship captains, navigators, world travelers, and pilots. It features a revolving 24-hour outer bezel and a GMT hour hand, which can tell the time for up to three timezones on the earth’s surface.”

The turning point for the GMT Master came in 1982 when a new movement had it renamed the GMT Master II. The new movement set local time without interfering with the GMT seconds or hours – a feature still seen in newer models as is.

A Tale of Two Times 

Rolex released the GMT Master as a two-timezone watch for pilots. The original model featured a 24-hour bezel in blue and red, signifying nighttime and daylight, respectively. This trailblazing bezel was made from plexiglass and replaced in 1959 with anodized aluminum.

Many notable watches, like the Tudor Black Bay 58, still use the aluminum bezel today for a vintage appeal. But Rolex changed the GMT’s bezel to high-tech, scratch-resistant ceramic in 2005. 

The dial is a classic. It debuted and remained the same 40mm black dial with Mercedes hands, multi-shaped markers, and date magnified by Cyclops lens. Safe to say, it didn’t take time until the larger market caught on to its design. 

The dial carries the simple go-to Rolexas design of triangular, round, and baton, hour markers. It has four hands with eye-catching designs: the vintage “Mercedes” hour hand, the minute hand is a sword, the sweep second hand is a syringe, and the 24-hour hand is a red (varies based on model) arrowhead.

Like the Submariner, the GMT also has exceptional legibility, good enough that you can’t tell the difference between the two. This is more impressive when you know the Submariner is built to be readable in pitch darkness underwater. 

Rolex GMT Master II watches are available in Oystersteel and Jubilee bracelets. It’s also the only collection with a polished center link that maximizes this timepiece’s dress appeal. It features a gridlock clasp system for safety and toolless adjustment to easily fit any wrist size. 

Today’s Rolex GMT Master II has evolved into a three-timezone watch. Ultimately, the Rolex watch is built for pilots and frequent travelers who want a statement timepiece or have loved ones in another timezone. 

Rolex Submariner History

Launched in 1953 and famously known for adorning the wrists of adventurers and icons, the Submariner is, interestingly, the first diver’s wristwatch with water resistance up to 100m (330 feet). Rolex pushed its excellence in engineering and R&D improving its resistance to 300 meters (1000 feet) in Submariners in 1979 for the date and ‘89 for the No Date. 

The ref.6200 was the first Submariner to use the now “normal” Mercedes hour hands. It’s both a functional (keeps the hour hand visible when it overlaps with the minute hand) and iconic design. 

Slow your horses down now, though; there’s no affiliation between Rolex and the German automobile manufacturer. It’s rather a nod to the Swiss watchmaker’s first ambassador, Mercedes Gleitze, swimming across the British Channel in the 20s. 

Rolex Submariners also didn’t have their names boldly imprinted in earlier models. Rolex battled for patent rights until the 60s. Needless to say, Submariners have come a long way as the ultimate diving equipment they’ve become today. 

Braving the Deep Seas in Style 

Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic diver’s wristwatches of all time. Its design has remained largely the same as it was seven decades ago.

As an underwater tool, the Submariner has a corrosion-resistant Cerachrom bezel with a 60-minute graduated scale. Like the GMT, it has knurled (jagged) edges for easy gripping with gloves on, but the Sub has a luminous capsule on the zero marker for legibility underwater. 

The Submariner and GMT share the same face shape dial markers with triangle, baton, and stick hour markers. And a narrower minute sword hand, Mercedes hands, and syringe seconds hand. 

The only glaring difference here is the exception of a 24-hour hand. Also, there are four lines of text on the Sub’s dial, while GMTs only have three. The smoking gun on the Sub is a text saying, “1000ft = 300m.”

It’s also available in Oystersteel, Rolesor, and 18-carat gold. Most, if not all, bust-down models are customized by jewelers. By the way, the entry-level stainless steel models use the 904L Oystersteel, which is in the same class of alloys used for equipment in the aerospace and chemical industries. 

It’s subtle material differences like this that sets Rolex apart from the crowd. One glance at the finishing, and you’ll be blown away. The case back is polished along the sides, giving it a refreshing, reflective finish you’ll appreciate more in person.  

Since 2020, Submariners Dates and No Dates use Rolex’s latest innovation, the Caliber 3235 and 3230, respectively. They are matched equally with the GMT Master II movements for power, accuracy, and durability. 

Rolex GMT vs Submariner: Which One Should You Choose

Considering that this article isn’t based on a personal opinion but an “objective” review of the subtle differences between these two iconic models, I will make a side-by-side comparison of both watches using their classic features as a point of reference. 

With this, you can decide which one suits your fancy and maybe even develop a soft spot for one of them before you walk into the store to try them out. 

I’ll tell you upfront. No watch review or vlog can do justice to how the Rolex GMT or Submariner feels on the wrist. But only you can put a word to it or describe this feeling. But this review will do some justice to some of the world-class craftsmanship you’ll experience. 

Model Options

You have two of the most iconic watch collections to pick from. Which one would you choose a model from? That’s as pretty hard to say. But it’s not impossible to objectively decide which collection has the best model options based on specifications. 

First of all, the GMT Master II beats the Submariner by having a higher number of models in the collection – 12 to 8. But that’s not what I’ll base an argument for best model options on; if that were the case, Rolex’s Datejust would be a better watch. 

However, going by design and engineering, the GMT may just be the winner. All the models are two-toned and stand out as more of a dress watch than an everyday model (even though it’ll absolutely fit that role). 

On the other hand, if you love a simple and fashionable Rolex, the Submariner would do; it’s the more popular of both collections. But there’s a new wave of enthusiasts taking to the GMT for its portability and stylishness.  

Functions

The Rolex GMT Master II and Submariner are simple timepieces with no super complications. Nonetheless, the GMT is slightly more complicated because of its dual time zone function. It combines all the Submariner functions, including center hour, instant date with rapid setting (for date models), and stop seconds with a 24-hour bezel and an independent GMT hand with a rapid setting. 

But the Submariner deservedly has a better water resistance of 300 meters compared to 100 meters of the GMT. While Rolex markets the Submariner as 1mm larger than the GMT, the difference on the face of the watch is way smaller – about 1/4th. It’s closer to 40.6mm than 41mm. 

Build Quality

When you bring Rolex into a conversation, build quality isn’t a question. It’s a fact that all Rolex watches are almost entirely handmade by the most skilled craftsmen and airtight quality control system. 

It takes a year to make one Rolex watch, so judging which one has a better build quality can be far-fetched, even delusional because they’re the same. Instead, I’ll do you one better and share how the workmanship on the GMT Master II and Submariner stand out.

First up is the dial. They both carry an Oystersteel case with a shiny finish on the dial and bezel, regardless of color variations. Some people don’t like this because it makes what’s meant to be a “professional tool watch” appear more “blingy” than “toolsy.” But you know it’s a fake Rolex without some small attention to detail. 

There are “Rolex” inscriptions along the inside walls of the case, which I find attractive. Maybe it’s because my Fossil doesn’t have anywhere near his level of detail. 

Moving on, I’ll bring your attention to a discrepancy that may or may not be important. The Submariner is only slightly bigger than the GMT. For instance, Rolex lists the case diameter as 41mm, but as I’ve pointed out earlier, it’s closer to 40.6mm, while the GMT is 40mm. 

Needless to say, the Submariner has a pronounced lug-to-lug that would be attractive if you like square or bold watches. But I love the more rounded and discrete face of Rolex GMTs.   

Movement

Both watches house truly exceptional movements that are kings in their own right. But technically, the GMT Master collection is more outstanding when you consider their second timezone function. Regardless, I’ll compare the Rolex GMT Master and Submariner Date’s movement for context. 

The most recent GMT Master watches use the Caliber 3285, while current Submariner Date models, like the ref. 126610LN, carry Caliber 3235 movements. They both have 70 hours of power reserve, 31 jewels, 28800 vph frequency, and are chronometer certified (COSC). More so, they are the same size and accurate to +2/-2 seconds a day. The GMT’s only edge is the fact that you can read the time for up to 3 time zones. 

Price & Availability 

Clearly, you can’t just walk into a Rolex store to get a GMT or Submariner or buy one instantly online. All of these are true, to some extent, except the latter. And then there are other factors, such as desirability and rarity. For instance, it’s easier to get a black dial Submariner than it is to find a green “Hulk” Submariner. 

The same idea goes for the Rolex GMT, except they’re even tougher to source if your dealer’s out of stock. Overall, it takes an average of 6-12 months from your trusted retailer to find a GMT or Submariner. But it takes up to 3 years if you ask an authorized dealer with whom you don’t have a good relationship or spending history. 

All in all, the Submariner is relatively easier to buy because of its popularity and lower price than the GMT Master II. But they both have a good resale market. And it’s easy to find a trusted dealer online rather than bank on an authorized dealer for months or years. The only gripe is you may be restricted to the available models if you want a quick sale. 

Value Retention & Investment 

If you’ve been in the game long enough, you’ll know any Rolex watch, down to the cheapest DateJust, is worth the investment. And we can proudly say the same of any Rolex GMT Master II or Rolex Submariner model. 

The Rolex Hulk, for example, was first introduced in 2010 and cost only about $9,000. It was discontinued in 2020 because of the changes to the Submariner collection – notably a bigger case. It was replaced by the Rolex Starbucks with the standard 41mm oyster case. 

Anyhow, it currently costs anywhere from $20,000 to $50,000 for a pre-owned Submariner 1160010LV “Hulk” in mint condition. Likewise, the Rolex GMT 16700 in stainless steel, discontinued in 1999, still costs around $13,000 as of the time of writing this. If that’s not impeccable value retention and worthy investment, I don’t know what is.  

However, limited availability plays a key role here, so I’d analyze recent models starting with the GMT Master II Pepsi Oystersteel in the jubilee bracelet. It officially costs only $10,900 from an authorized dealer but a mint-condition piece can easily sell for over $20,000 in the secondary resale market.

That’s over 100% return on investment for a GMT model watch that’s still in production. Overall, both the GMT Master and Submariner are valuable investment timepieces. You can expect 100% value retention for either of them in mint condition even a decade after purchase. 

Notable Rolex GMT & Submariner Models 

I know I mentioned how the Rolex GMT knocks the Submariner out of the pack when it comes to model options. Let’s take a deeper look into some of these GMT models and, of course, some iconic Submariners the watch enthusiasts can’t get enough of. 

Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” ref. 126710BLRO

The GMT Master II “Pepsi” is one of the most iconic watches ever made. From its popularity among notable users to millions of knockoffs, it’s a must-have (the real deal, of course) for any serious watch collector. 

Its moniker is a nod to its blue and red ceramic bezel, which resembles the official logo of the multinational soda brand. This color variation is one of the most common in the GMT Master II collection for its unmatched beauty and charm. Despite this, it’s not any cheaper or easier to get than other models. 

Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” ref. 126710BLNR

A “Batman” is simply a GMT Master II with a black and blue bezel. It’s a sought-after Rolex GMT with a black dial and Jubilee or Oyster bracelet with polished center links. The dial and bezel take on a glossy finish like all Rolex sports watches. 

It also uses the same in-house Caliber 3285 with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand like the Pepsi, Root Beer, Meteorite, or any GMT Master II. 

Rolex GMT-Master II “Root Beer” ref. 126711CHN

The Root Beer GMT Master II is a step away from the usual Oystersteel models. It gets its name from the dark orange color of its Everose gold adornment. This precious stone embellishment makes it over $6,000 more expensive than a stainless steel version, with an official price of $16,500. 

Here’s why. While not a full gold bust down, it’s a sublime combination of Everose gold and Oystersteel across notable parts of the timepiece. The two-color (black and red) bezel is gold plated around the knurled edges, and the 24-hour graduations are molded from Everose gold.

Further, the multi-shaped hour markers and hands are also plated with the root-beer colored Everose gold down to the crown. And the normally polished center links are replaced with Everose gold polish to give it a classic Rolex two-tone look.   

Rolex GMT-Master II “Meteorite” ref. 126719BLRO

Here’s another GMT Master with a dazzling case and dial. The Meteorite is the closest thing to a bust down in the GMT collection, and the most precious ornament isn’t your typical precious stone. It features an 18-karat white gold case and a diamond-like “meteorite” dial.

Rolex drew inspiration for the idea from the metallic patterns of the core of an asteroid – space rock – as it cools down upon entry into Earth. And they made the dial out of an actual piece of meteorite – the Gibeon meteorite. 

This is the only model of the GMT Master II with this dial. And you bet it’s the most expensive, with an official retail price point of $42,900. The Meteorite is understandably more precious on the pre-owned market costing anywhere from $35,000 to $300,000.

There’s a slightly cheaper ($40,600) variation with a Midnight Blue dial instead, but the same white gold case. It debuted at an average of $33,000 in 2019 and now costs $40,600.  

Rolex Submariner Date ref. 126610LN

This is the go-to Submariner for collectors and icons who want a piece of the classic Diver watch. It’s in an Oystersteel case with a black-on-black bezel and dial combo giving it a simple yet bold and fashionable look, especially with its gloss finish. 

The 126610LN uses the Rolex Caliber 3235 movement and Triplock triple waterproof screw-down crown for up to 300 meters of water resistance. I don’t see many Submariner owners diving in one, but it’s good to know that it’s a fully-capable underwater tool. As of 2020, this Rolex Submariner cost only $8,250 but is now worth $10,250 at retail price. 

Rolex Submariner No Date ref. 124060

As the name of the dateless Submarine implies, it’s a typical all-black Submariner without a date window on the dial. But it’s just as beautiful and valuable as the Date option. The only technical difference is it uses a different movement: caliber 3230. 

The No Date has the same build and resale value. The official retail price rose from $7,700 in 2020, during its launch, to $9,100 as of writing (2023). 

Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” ref. 126610LV

This is an upgrade to the OG Submariner Kermit, which debuted in 2003. Aside from a longer case than the Kermit, the 2020 Submariner Starbucks houses a more efficient in-house Caliber 3235. 

It’s a two-colored Submariner in Oystersteel case, a green ceramic bezel, and a black dial. 

While the Starbucks is bigger and better, the Kermit is a great investment due to limited supply (discontinued) and a steady increase from collectors on never-ending waitlists. The most precious Kermit collectible is the 16610LV Mark 1, a 50th-anniversary model costing over $40,000. 

The Submariner Starbucks is still in production and is also difficult to get. It currently has around seventy percent return on investment on the second-hand market at the official $10,800 retail price.  

Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” ref. 126613LB

This is arguably the most beautiful Sub ever made. It’s essentially a two-tone Rolex Submariner with a dazzling blue dial and bezel. The dial is polished with a sunburst finish, yellow gold markers, and hands that are eye candy every moment you look down at the timepiece.

The yellow gold adornment also trickles around the edges and graduations of the blue ceramic bezel. It maintains the 41mm case of modern-day Submariners but is enhanced with yellow gold polish down the center and center links. 

It also uses the latest Rolex Caliber 3235 movement with 70 hours of power reserve. Since its release in 2020 at a starting retail price of $13,600 it has leaped to $15,600 about three years later. So it’s safe to say price rises year by year. 

Final Thoughts

When you try any of these watches out, picking one over the other is tough. And it almost always becomes a matter of which one you should buy first. Most time boiling down to budget, availability, or if a second time zone matters to you as much as diving depth. But, when it comes to design and build excellence, it’s a tie between the Rolex Submariner and Rolex GMT Master II. 

Generally, I love functional and dressy timepieces that suit my style. I particularly love small-faced but complicated watches, and the GMT Master II perfectly fits that category for me. 

It has a 40mm case and partially polished center link bracelet compared to the stocky 41mm of the Submariner. And the second timezone function seals the deal. I love how I can adjust my subconscious to the time of a loved one overseas as I pass the day. 

How you pick a GMT Master II or Submariner is your choice. They have the same attention to detail and world-class Rolex workmanship that makes a statement and are equally “hot” investment purchases promising a tremendous resale value.