“Tick-tock, tick-tock, tick-tock”. If you suddenly notice this sound from your Rolex, there are two things involved: you either bought a knock-off model, or you own the classic Oysterquartz. Now, your heart’s pacing. You’re furious, maybe even disappointed; your dealer had the audacity to sell a counterfeit.
Relax. All watches tick. But unlike cheap quartz watches, Rolex watches don’t keep time in the traditional tick-tock fashion. In this article, you’ll learn all about how Rolex watches tick and how the myth they don’t started.
The Origin of the Myth
There’s no denying that many people got into the luxury watch market as a direct result of pop culture. But while I’m not a traditional gatekeeping-type watch enthusiast, I believe you should never let trends influence your taste. You’ll be robbed into splurging and thinking you got a bargain because your favorite artist wore one in a music video.
Meanwhile, you’d have passed on better or comparable affordable options because they’re not trendy. How is this related to the Swiss luxury watch ticking? The myth started when arguably the greatest rapper alive, Jay Z, said, “Rollies that don’t tick-tock”. This braggadocious lyric has been used by countless artists since then, including A-Listers like Lil Durk and Future. It’s true to some extent, but it’s practically impossible for a watch not to “tick-tock.”
What Does It Mean When A Watch Ticks?
The thing about watches is that they all tick. I mean, there’s a sound associated with time itself. You guessed right, “tick-tock tick-tock”. Now why do they make that sound?
To be clear, the volume of a watch’s movement depends on factors like case material, material quality, escapement components, and sometimes, the manufacturer. The general rule of thumb is that timepieces made with cheap, lightweight materials tick the loudest.
But this isn’t always the case; some watches, like models with a pin-lever escapement, generally tick loudly because they use metal instead of jewel pins. And quartz movements are usually quieter than mechanical watches, as they contain fewer or no moving parts.
Anyway, a watch ticks to keep the time running. How it ticks is a direct representation of its internal components/engine/caliber. Or, better yet, its movement. Mechanical watches like Rolex tick faster because they use a complicated mechanical movement rather than quartz, which is a cheaper alternative even though it’s more accurate.
It’s for this reason, and of course, as a status symbol, that many watch enthusiasts remain watch enthusiasts. And Rolex has been on top of the movement engineering game for decades to keep hardcore enthusiasts infatuated and aesthetic buyers drooling.
Let’s talk more about how Rolex and mechanical watches tick differently. More specifically, the reason why A-list rappers believe they don’t tick-tock.
The Sweeping Motion of Rolex and Mechanical Watches
Rolex watches have a second hand that appears to glide through the dial rather than tick-tock. It’s not restricted to the brand, nor is it a novelty. All mechanical watches tick at varying frequencies, including dirt-cheap ones, which are typically faster than quartz. So it gives the illusion that the hand isn’t ticking.
Here’s what goes on behind the dial. A mainspring passes power into an escapement mechanism, which then saves energy by passing it through a couple of gears to the watch hands.
Inside the escapement, a balance wheel swings back and forth like a pendulum, while a pallet fork restricts its movement per second to stay accurate. It’s the speed of this pause-and-start interaction that makes the second-hand in mechanical watches tick in a sweep motion.
Mechanical movement watches with a faster balance wheel keep time more accurately and reliably than slower ones. They usually tick between four, six, and eight times per second, or 21,600, 28,000, or 36,000 bph (beats per hour), respectively.
The only exception is in specialty or vintage watches, like the Antoine Martin Slow Runner 1 Hz, which beats once per second. It took Martin Braun building the largest escapement to achieve this feat in The Slow Runner. But quartz watches achieve this accuracy only at a fraction of the cost of engineering.
Rolex watches tick 8 times a second, 8 hertz, or 28,000 vph (vibrations per hour). Listen to the tick-tock of the Rolex Submariner, played at 0.25 playback speed, below.
Rolex Making the Tick-Tock Sound: A Video
In truth, this is a display of outstanding craftsmanship and engineering. If you listen even closer, you can hear the mechanical tune of the balance wheel and gears grinding to set the wheels of time in motion. But it also shows undeniable evidence that “Rollies tick-tock”. Listen with a headset if you’re still in denial.
Rather than beat on the count of a second, they beat non-stop to make a second and need to be wound when they run out of juice. So this is why Jay Z and the hip hop community consider only a Rolex that “doesn’t tick tock” the symbol of authenticity.
Quartz watches, on the other hand, beat only once, exactly on the second, which is more efficient and accurate. You’ll see why soon. If that’s your situation, it’s true that a “Rolex doesn’t tick”. It’s most likely a knockoff Rolex with a quartz movement.
So if you’re asking if a Rolex jerks per second, the answer is no. Only the Oysterquartz (discontinued in 2001) tick-tocks.
Quartz Watches vs Mechanical Watches
Now we’ve established how Rolex does and doesn’t tick. Here’s why quartz watches beat at a single beat per second. And why they’re better timekeepers than any mechanical watch. It’s quite a simple process.
A quartz crystal is piezoelectric; it can absorb electrical current and convert it into mechanical energy, which powers watch hands. A battery-powered electric circuit sends current to the crystal, which then vibrates 32,768 times in a second.
The circuit monitors these frequencies and pushes the second hand forward on exactly every 32,768th vibration, which creates that one-tick-per-second (tick-tock) motion. In other words, it’s extremely accurate, just like using a smartphone or computer, since it’s programmed on a circuit board.
As you can imagine, this is a cheaper and more reliable system than mechanical movements, which require higher expertise and more materials. Not to mention regular maintenance of the engine. All a quartz watch needs is a battery change and regular cleaning. So it’s no surprise that many watchmakers closed down when quartz watches first hit the market in 1970.
The Rolex Datejust OysterQuartz – the first and only Quartz Rolex
The Rolex Oysterquartz is symbolic of a dark era for the luxury watch market – the Quartz Crisis. While some may see it as proof of desperation from the Swiss watch manufacturer, it’s also evidence of stellar engineering and innovation. Rolex spent five years developing two movements that toppled the quartz movement of the day.
And so, in 1977, they dished out what seemed like a Datejust or Day-Date with a quartz movement. It’s still available today as a collector’s watch. It has the dial of a DateJust but with an angular case, an integrated bracelet, and an over-engineered quartz movement.
Some enthusiasts call this movement a hybrid because it was way ahead of its time. It has 11 jewels, a lever escapement, and can self-regulate for super precision. Nonetheless, the point here is that this is the only Rolex watch that tick-tocks.
Rolex Mechanical Watch Movements
Manual winding watch movements require you to wind the crown when the power reserve runs out (worn or not). Rolex has a handful of them; the majority of their current models carry an automatic movement.
The most iconic hand-wound Rolex I’ve seen so far is the Rolex Cellini Vintage 1974, ref. 4083. Or Rolex Cellini 50505 in an 18k gold case. There’s no denying that this collection was the brand’s flagship for a taste of elegance and classic dress watches.
Yet it offers exceptional value for the money, as far as high-end luxury dress watches are concerned. It’s now reborn in the Rolex 1908 collection and newer Cellini models with automatic movements. The point here is that Rolex’s mechanical watches tick in a sweeping motion.
Rolex Automatic Movements
The go-to for Rolex luxury watch brands is the self-winding mechanical movement. This kind of movement charges the mainspring for as long as you wear the watch. Using kinetic energy, a rotor behind a case back swings in rhythm with your wrist movement, automatically coiling the mainspring. When unused, it keeps time until the power reserve is depleted.
Current versions of Rolex’s automatic movements beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph). Alternatively, 8 ticks per second would facilitate the highest level of precision and reliability. Although we’ve seen varying frequencies over the years, Rolex has never produced a movement with a single beat per second. One thing Jay Z was right about, though, was when he said: “Audemars, that’s losing time”.
Debunking The Myth: “Rolex Watches Don’t Tick”
I hope this article comprehensively and adequately answers the question, “Does a Rolex tick?” for anyone curious. Surely, with this clarity, you understand why giving a straight answer is hard because the question can come from different viewpoints.
If you’re a fan of rap and have heard the infamous Jay-Z line, he’s fundamentally wrong about Rollies that don’t tick-tock. The second-hand ticks voraciously fast, so it appears as if it’s sweeping the dial. In Jiggaman’s defense, though, it was a sick rhyme to the previous line. Maybe J. Hova meant to say they don’t tick, but they sweep.
However, if you’re a curious watch owner, then you’re right to be anxious; a Rolex never ticks. Only the vintage Oysterquartz tick-tocks every second. An authentic Rolex watch should “tick-tocks” 8 times per second.
Old heads may swear pens are the only thing they know Montblanc excels at. While that’s true for an out-of-touch millennial or Baby Boomer, the reality is the opposite. Once a luxury stationery and leather goods brand, Montblanc inherited over 150 years of watchmaking experience following a smart acquisition of Minerva.
And like it or not, Montblanc men’s watches hold their own against big players in the industry like Jaeger-LeCoultre, and IWC Schaffhausen.
So, if you’re here to confirm your doubts about Montblanc as a watchmaker, the short answer is you’ll be disappointed. A closer look at Montblanc’s collection reveals a dozen sporty, casual, conceptual, and complicated watches at almost unbeatable prices.
But first, I’ll hit the ground running with a snippet of how a fountain pen maker became an underappreciated horologist.
Montblanc Watches: How It Started
The Montblanc legacy started way back in 1906 when August Eberstein developed a range of fountain pens in Berlin, Germany. While they’re currently based in Hamburg, the German brand is a part of the Swiss conglomerate Richemont Group, which includes brands like Cartier and Baume & Mercier. However, I’ll spare you the unnecessary details and focus on MB’s history as a watchmaker.
Interestingly, Montblanc only recently ventured into watchmaking in 1997 after acquiring Minerva. Now, the techniques and craftsmanship of the Victorian-era Swiss watchmaker live through Montblanc watches. Aside from being respectable watchmakers for the military, they were former official timekeepers of the Olympic Ski Events and leading producers of handmade movements.
So when you think of Montblanc as a watchmaker, think of the Minerva heritage and the Institut Minerva de Recherche en Haute Horlogerie. The latter is an institution for “preserving and cultivating” old precision timekeeping techniques and research for innovative technologies.
Today, Montblanc is a force to reckon with among entry-level and, perhaps, mid-level luxury watch brands. So whether you picture a pen manufacturer when the name comes to mind, they’re not pushovers when it comes to watchmaking.
What’s The Status of Montblanc Watches Today?
What I said earlier stands; Montblanc isn’t a pushover and is more than a leading pen maker. And anyone who thinks otherwise is either biased, unacquainted, or resourceful enough to easily afford higher-end luxury.
Agreed, MB can be inseparable from the crowd when you stick to their entry-level models. But you start to see the excellence in craftsmanship when you go higher up, between $2000 to $15,000 – considerably still a moderate price to pay.
I’ll emphasize craftsmanship to back Montblanc as a formidable watchmaker. The German luxury brand has watches, particularly dressy models, that make some popular brands look overpriced. They exude the finishing of a master artisan, in-house movements (mostly Selita-based), and a trademark Sfumato leather making.
Some notable mentions are the Vasco da Gama Moonphase and Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum, which are excellent watches that would contend with any timepiece, even from the Holy Trinity. Aside from being capable of a side-by-side comparison for engineering prowess, Montblanc watches offer a sizable bang for your buck.
For instance, the Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie Vasco Da Gama Moonphase in red gold, at around $13000, is almost half the price of the JLC Master Calendar. And they are evenly matched in functionality, looks, and craftsmanship. The only edge the JLC offers is brand recognition and, consequently, better resale value.
The Best Montblanc Watches
Now that we’ve established that Montblanc watches are high-quality and affordable, here are some of the best models for men.
This is Montblanc’s first diving watch, and it’s also themed after the Mer de Glace “Sea of Ice”, a massive glacier in the Mont-Blanc Massif. It’s interesting to have a Diver’s watch with a cool backstory. Better yet, it’s built with exceptional quality and attention to detail.
The most prominent feature is its glacier pattern in honor of the model name, Iced Sea and Merce de Sea. This glacial texture is achieved using an ancient technique called Gratte Boise. It also has an artistic engraved case back and crown. It’s a good example of Montblanc’s interest in preserving the old ways of watchmaking and infusing them with modern technology.
The Iced Sea is a 40mm stainless steel diving watch that can take a beating for generations. The dial has a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel and 300 meters of water resistance to bring it up to and beyond diving standards.
This Montblanc is more than any other 43mm chronograph you’ve ever seen. It’s a work of art that’s ridiculously affordable for the level of engineering and artistry that goes into it. And it preserves Montblanc’s legacy of protecting the precious history of watchmaking.
As you may have deduced from the name, it’s a homage to Nicolas Rieussec – a French watchmaker who invented the inking chronograph in 1821 and King Phillipe’s official watchmaker.
Wondering what an inking chronograph is? It’s simply a chronograph that prints elapsed time on the dial with ink. This Star Legacy has an equally well-engineered automatic chronograph movement, the caliber MB R200 with 72 hours of power reserve. It has a column wheel and counters with rotating discs that give off a 3D effect.
The blue dial also has a unique guilloche pattern that catches the light and turns heads. It’s then coupled with a Sfumato alligator strap that completes its classy look as a dress watch. If you want a dressy Montblanc, Jaeger-LeCouture alternative, or a statement watch, the Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec is a top contender for men.
Does “the President” ring a bell? This is the nickname of Rolex’s famed Day Date watch, and the Heritage Automatic Day & Date gives it a run for its money. But the Heritage has a style of its own, and it’s not just some cheap replica. Actually, it’s a tribute to Minerva’s classic dress watches from the ’40s and ’50s.
The case is consistent with the vintage design of a seamless round frame and teethed crown in a 39mm case. Combined with the fully-polished finish and silvery white dial, this watch will complete a formal look for every man.
Also, the combination of the hour marker and minute graduation inside the case and day and date windows give this watch a cool, refined, yet, classy appearance. More specifically, I fancy how the blue syringe seconds hand extends to the five-minute graduation.
It’s coupled with a grey Sfumato alligator leather strap that gives it a unique look and is comfortable to wear. Additionally, it’s powered by an in-house caliber concealed behind the solid case back with a Minerva Manufacture” engraving. Priced at a little over $2000, you’ll be getting plenty of luxury and comfort for the Heritage Day Date.
Another masterpiece from Montblanc for men seeking casual luxury and style for occasions. It’s a classic stainless steel watch with a round case and the signature Montblanc straight lugs I’ve come to love. It’s 40mm across the case and has a unique 5-link stainless steel bracelet that exudes a bold and authentic aura.
The dial is a beauty. It’s an infusion of matching silver-white with Roman numerals and baton hour markers, and a date window at 3 o’clock. Similar to the Heritage Day Date, it has an internal bezel, except this time, it’s a 15-minute graduation and railway minute design for indexes. And you can’t go wrong with the ultra-slim hands toning down the bold impression of the dial and bracelet.
This Tradition Automatic uses an in-house MB 24.17 automatic caliber with a 38-hour reserve. Compared to similar models from name brands, like the Oris Artelier Automatic, Tissot Tradition Automatic, and even the Longines Master L2.357.4.08.6, the MB holds its own.
And some may say it has a dressy edge with the Roman numerals on the dial. And, of course, it’s a slightly more economical timepiece, also offering a leather option if you want a more corporate style. Or the 36mm case if you’re more reserved.
But I’ll admit the 2500-dollar Longines Master is enticing when you consider the diamond indexes and color options. All in all, Montblanc’s Traditional Automatic is a top-rated luxury watch any serious watch lover can appreciate for engineering, value, and beauty.
If you checked out the MB Vasco Da Gama from earlier, you’d understand Montblanc is a fan of exploratory watches. The type an ordinary fountain pen maker would struggle to idealize, much less perfect in production. Yet, the folks at Montblanc made the 1858 Geosphere as a tribute to mountaineers braving the Seven Summit Challenge – climbing the tallest mountains across the seven continents.
This is a befitting watch for Montblanc’s heritage since the brand’s name means “massif” or “principal mountain mass”. So it was no surprise extra attention was paid to detail, and it was released as a celebration of Minerva’s 160th anniversary.
The 1858 Geosphere dial has two globes with a red dot signifying the location of each summit around the world. It also has a second timezone at 9 o’clock and a knurled ceramic bezel doubling as a compass. Talk about a new world timer.
The structure is no less impressive. It’s a 42mm stainless steel case, black dial, and aged Sfumato calf leather for class and comfort. The 1858 Geosphere is also available in Nato and Bund straps for ultimate wearability.
By far the dressiest GMT watch you’ll come across, Montblanc gives travelers a timepiece to slay on the road. While I love the attention complicated watches like GMTs bring, I’m a simple man at heart. The MB Heritage GMT ticks all the right boxes with this simple design.
Don’t let the uncharacteristic round case with straight lugs fool you. It’s durable and just fine without a bezel. The salmon dial has a double entendre appeal (vintage and eye-catching) with three different layers of finish.
The wood grain finish for the hands (inner layer), guilloche pattern for the 12-hour marker (center), and clear finish for the minute and 24-hour marker (outer ring) make the dial beautiful, readable, and shows thoughtful craftsmanship.
This 40mm two-timezone Montblanc is water-resistant to 50 meters and has an automatic MB24.50 caliber with 42 hours of power reserve. Talk about a simple, stylish, yet powerful, GMT watch at an affordable price.
With this “piece of art,” you’d recognize that the “1858” collection is MB’s dedication to complicated watches. It’s strictly a collector’s watch for enthusiasts who fancy the addition of a conceptual one-handed watch to their collectibles. It’s a beautiful 1858-themed watch with stainless steel case and an attractive patina-like bronze bezel.
The bezel ages fine even with wear as the patina blooms, giving it the intended 19th-century feel. But that’s not the whole of the 19th-century story with this watch. What’s special about the Automatic 24h is also the unreal fact that it’s unable to keep time accurately.
On the beautiful compass-like dial is a 24-hour marker with even gradations of 2-24 and a black map background. Interestingly there are compass indicators on the outer bezel, although I’m uncertain about their accuracy. What’s certain, though, is the bright red hand pointing to the rail tracks is the only way to tell the time – albeit accurate to only +/- 15 minutes.
But I like the adventurous side to it; the first 12th hour of the day starts on the west, and the rest of the day is covered within the 24th hour on the east side of the dial.
So how you tell the time is down to tracking the four minutes within the hour, leaving you accurate to only 15-minute intervals on the hour. Fun fact: the dial comes alive at night to reveal a map of the Northern Hemisphere and the Meridian lines.
Montblanc wraps the bronze case in their much-hyped vintage textile strap from Julien Faure – a strap manufacturer that uses the same antique looms his forefathers used 150 years ago.
While this is more of MB’s conceptual timepieces, I find it overpriced for the concept of feeling an alpine adventure and inaccurate timekeeping era. But I can’t deny it’s the perfect watch to pass down generations.
Now we’re back in the present with another Montblanc beautiful dress watch – the Star Legacy Date 39. This 39mm stainless steel piece is a refresher from the complicated 1858 Automatic 24h, thanks to its easy-to-read Arabic Breguet numerals and uncluttered slate gray dial.
The dial looks clean, but a closer look reveals the attention to detail of a skilled craftsman on the guilloche patterns. It’s the type of watch face that just seems to always get the attention of co-workers and friends. It’s classy and familiar, yet stands out from what you’ll see anywhere else.
Coupling it with MB’s sfumato alligator leather strap confirms its ultimate dress appeal. If you’re unfamiliar with the sfumato technique, it’s a technique from way back in Leonardo Da Vinci’s era that basically gives paintings, in this case, the leather strap, a smoky, faded, but stylish appearance like it aged like fine wine. Without a doubt, the Star Legacy 39mm is one timepiece for a businessman or classy professional to start a dress watch collection.
In support of Montblanc’s intricate support for mountaineers for obvious reasons, I introduce the Date 0 Oxygen. The artisans and engineers constructed this sporty watch “devoid of oxygen” – airtight – to prevent fogging at high altitudes. Not to mention a spectacular dial to brave cold nights in the wild or rock every day.
The 8000 comes with a black glacier-patterned dial with Montblanc’s sfumato technique finishing, giving it a modern and vintage look. The watch face is a true work of art. In addition to the iced-out background, the 8000 has an easy-to-read dial with large-font Arabic numerals and illuminated cardinal points on the bezel.
It has a black bezel and boxy lugs that are sporty compared to the straight lugs of a typical Montblanc. But don’t write it off as a dress watch just yet; it’s leaf hour hands. Plus, it has an interchangeable bracelet so you can swap it for a leather strap.
The Date 0 Oxygen 8000 runs on the powerful MB21.17 we’ve seen in the previous Montblanc models so far. It’s concealed in the closed case back with a “Spirit of Explorations” engraving as an honor to the brave who explore in this watch. Just remember, it may be 0 Oxygen, but it’s only water resistant to 100 meters.
The Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar is one of the more complicated models from the German luxury brand. But it keeps its tradition of making simple, round, and dressy watches with a nod to Minerva’s heritage from the 19th century.
As you can probably tell, the Star Legacy has a calendar function or moon phase, but also day, date, month, and hour running on the MB 29.12 caliber. I can’t help but fantasize about how it holds up against heavyweights like the Breguet Classique Calendrier 7337 and Blancpain Quantieme Complet because they share some similarities in style. The Star Legacy has the round pocket watch shape not only for its Minerva heritage and like top competitors with the moon phase complication.
Its dial is a stunning work of artistry despite having a seemingly simple white background. But the masterful artisans at Le Locle made some magic drilling the Montblanc exploding star guilloche front and center. And it’s encircled by the days of the week and the day and month window below the Montblanc logo.
In addition, black Roman numerals and dotted minute markers on the silvery-white dial give the Star Legacy a crisp and readable profile. The red crescent moon and blue hour and minute hands contrast so perfectly that it’s even easy for a horology newbie to get the concept.
Couple this beautiful dial with a 42mm polished stainless steel case and Sfumato alligator leather; you get a casual and formal timepiece. Despite being one of the more pricey models, the Star Legacy calendar strikes a pretty good bargain for design and functionality at its price.
The 1858 collection has got to be as iconic to Montblanc as the Submariner or Datejust is to Rolex. Before you get axes out, this is an assumption based on the number of impressive models and not judging by popularity. The Automatic Chronograph is a vintage beauty that keeps giving from simplicity, and contemporary fashion, to functionality. And the magnetic charm is from nothing over the top.
The watch has the typical round and polished case we’ve come to expect from Montblanc but with the added touch of a satin finish to the 42mm stainless steel contraption. Enter the dial; you’ll notice the faded but appealing old-school aesthetics of the leaf hands, markers, and sub counters on the black backdrop.
And for a new look to the entire brand, MB introduces bi-pushers to Automatic Chronograph. Another change from the usual is its MB25.11 caliber with a 48-hour power reserve and 27 jewels.
Although not uncommon in today’s luxury watch world, the calf leather strap is what catches my fancy. The raw look and bright contrast of the cognac strap give the timepiece a bold and versatile style that would pass for a house or beach party, dinner, or running errands.
Last but not least is the latest version of what was once the most affordable luxury perpetual calendar watch on the market. Although this new upgrade is not on the cheap side, it comes with a bigger case, less clutter and more harmony on the dial, and stronger movement.
The Heritage Perpetual Calendar is powered by what Montblanc calls the “new manufacture” 29 caliber MB29.22. For folks unfamiliar with the perpetual calendar function, it’s simply a calendar that can be adjusted to read accurate days of the week from the past or future. Hence the MB29.22 reads hours, days, months, leap years, and moon phases accurately with a 48-hour power source.
However, it’s not these features that are intriguing, but the engineering prowess to present them tastefully on the silvery white dial. The Star Legacy’s dial carries Montblanc’s signature multi-level textured finish that, while simple, exudes extreme attention to detail and makes the functions extra legible. This is a reminder that the Heritage Perpetual calendar also has a second timezone function, which is impressive.
And to top it off, the watch fits in a slim 12mm stainless steel case thanks to the efficiency of engineering on the MB29.22. Pairing the Heritage Perpetual Calendar with Montblanc’s trademark sfumato leather strap was an obvious genius.
You’ll be adding a classy weekend or daily dress watch that commands respect in any room to your collection. And it has a seemingly positive resale value. It debuted at $15000 during its release at SIHH 2019 but now costs over $20000.
Montblanc Watches: The Brand for Classic Men
Montblanc is the ultimate men’s luxury watch brand for classic men and even modern-day professional women. I don’t say this because they make exceptional watches, but the possibility of staying loyal to one brand for your luxury accessories.
At least for me, I enjoy having a brand I can trust to deliver quality, taste, and a good price for several items. It saves me the stress of starting a new customer journey of window shopping around to find a fit.
And Montblanc caters to a niche of folks who want fashionable and sophisticated watches, briefcases, bracelets, wallets, and fountain pens for the traditional man. Overall, the German luxury watch manufacturer makes timepieces a beginner or hardcore enthusiast that values simplicity, style, and reasonable pricing would appreciate.
It’s true most luxury watches are not blingy timepieces and could pass as regular watches to the uninitiated eyes. But at the top of the food chain are the iced-out, bust-down, or diamond-studded watches only a few people ever dream of owning.
Made popular by hip-hop culture, Rolex has a handful of iced-out watches in its collections. They aren’t exactly eye candy like bust downs from personal jewelers like Ice Box, but an ode to the art of gem setting.
Rolex makes the mark in the top 1 percent of horology and is a relatively affordable manufacturer of diamond-encrusted or gem-adorned timepieces. It’s aftermarket retailers that make outrageous amounts on them by hiking prices because of their exclusivity. In this article, I’ll share their journey into making iced watches and the most notable models available for investment.
Understanding Factory Iced Out Rolex Watches
Iced-out watches are only considered statement fashion pieces. But while they might be a showpiece of class, wealth, and power, they’re also solid lifetime investments. Apparently, in the resale market, diamonds really are forever; the price for Rolex stones can only go up.
The Origins
Rolex started dishing out iced-out watches during the 60s and 70s. As you’d imagine, these orders were restricted to notable individuals; athletes, government officials, and tycoons. Shortly after, they were introduced to their catalog for anyone who could afford them to buy around the 80s.
Now, Rolex offers hundreds of iced-out watch models, mostly dress watches, available to anyone at authorized dealers. They are categorized as “gem-set” but with varying degrees, from diamond-set bezels and dials to fully iced-out models with diamond or precious stones all around.
There’s a caveat, though; although Rolex actively produces iced-out watches for the public, they’re extremely rare to find at authorized dealers. But they are more readily available on the resale market, with most going for six figures.
The Process
Like most watchmakers, we can’t really tell the exact process that goes into their production. Well, maybe you can see it for yourself if you find yourself privileged to go on an exclusive excursion into the Rolex factory.
However, Rolex is generous enough to give us a tasteful idea of precious stone selection and gem setting. Unsurprisingly, the diamonds and stones that make the cut – pun intended – meet the highest standard of the jewelry industry.
The in-house Rolex gemmology department has only one job – picking the “best of the best” gems. More specifically, they are of the highest ratings for clarity, color, and cut. Rolex, for example, uses only IF (Internally Flawless) stones, which are high up in the grading scales of gemmology.
In this light, their diamonds fall in the D to G, and gemstones are hand-picked for color consistency. The kicker is these are rare stones to get a hold of and the most expensive any custom jeweler could probably use. When it comes to luxury, the only thing better than pristine craftsmanship is rarity.
Rolex is one step ahead of hiring only masterful gem setters to create almost perfect iced-out watches. While the Swiss watch company is proud of its culture, its world-class craftsmanship was never a debate. Iced-out Rolex watches are an eye candy when you consider the precise alignment of gems, their positioning, size, and refreshing aesthetics.
The Oyster Perpetual Rainbow Daytona Cosmograph 116598RBOW is a great example. It’s a handcrafted Daytona with a rainbow graduated bezel set with 36 baguette-cut sapphires and 56 pure diamonds adorning the lugs of its yellow gold case. It retains pristine functionality, which is a testament to the perfection of Rolex gem setting.
Rolex Gem-Setting Techniques
Bead Setting – this is the most gem-setting technique you’ll see in an iced-out Rolex. It simply involves fixing the stones into holes drilled in the surface with a setting bur. Then three to five small bead-shaped metals hold them in place. Rolex has a liking for this technique, particularly in their watches with paved or encrusted surfaces.
Claw setting – It’s similar to the bead setting, but the metal prongs are longer. It involves three to six evenly spaced prongs placed around the stone or at its four corners. It makes the gem more visible and is usually used for round stones.
Closed setting – is usually found on the hour markers of iced-out Rolex watches. A metal band encircles the stone to keep it in place.
Channel or “baguette” setting – as its name implies, is used for a baguette or octagonal cut diamonds that can be set side-by-side. A precious metal is used as a channel to lay the gems without any prongs or beads holding them in place – it’s why it’s also known as the invisible setting.
Caring for Iced-Out Watches
Even knock-off iced-out watches require proper maintenance to keep that shine and not fall out with use. The good thing is that factory-set and aftermarket diamond Rolex watches can take a beating. Keeping the watch and stones in good condition only takes simple but essential best practices that you must be consistent with.
The first one is to keep the watch in its original box any time it’s not in use. A harmless behavior of placing a diamond watch on a coffee table may cause a scratch that’ll shave thousands off its after-market value. Call me weird, but I’ll never take off a diamond watch if the case isn’t nearby, not for security, but for safety reasons.
Also, among others, is to clean the watch with a lint-free cloth. Depending on how dirty it gets, you can wash a diamond Rolex in a soap and water solution using a soft toothbrush to get the gunk out.
Ultimately, the safest and best way to clean your iced-out watch is to visit your dealer occasionally. You can take it as an opportunity to scope out what’s new in-store and build a relationship with the dealer and find deals faster.
Factory Iced Out Rolex Watches vs Aftermarket Diamond Rolex Watches
Ha! The age-long beef between the purists and enthusiasts who really don’t care about how the bling gets on a watch. A factory-iced-out Rolex is adorned by the gem artists at Rolex with the purest of diamonds and retains the design and functionality of the standard models.
At the same time, an aftermarket diamond Rolex watch is a base model embellished with diamonds or gems by a third-party jeweler. Sounds harmless right? The most obvious issue pressing the purists is how it’s done. While we can argue that there are talented gem setters outside Rolex, the aftermarket can’t say the same.
A non-Rolex Jeweler has to break down (bust down) the watch before they can set the stones. The watch’s value significantly drops the instance any part is modified by anyone other than a Rolex engineer. And it’s not hard to see why.
An aftermarket diamond Rolex puts authenticity into question and sometimes, may alter the structural design and functionality of the original. See this Cartier de Santos designed by celebrity jeweler Ze Frost for NBA superstar Lamelo Ball for example. While it’s extremely iced out, he received heavy backlash from fans and the watch community for ruining a perfectly good watch.
Nonetheless, good riddance to the purists; if you’re interested in an artistic, custom-iced-out Rolex than buying a factory-produced one, go for it. Depending on your taste, you’ll get an authentic aftermarket iced-out Rolex for cheaper than a factory iced-out equivalent.
Factory-set Rolex diamond watches, on the other hand, are tested, trusted, pure, and rare. Even simple factory iced-out Rolexes (dial only) usually cost an extra $2,000 or 2-6x more than the standard model but retain value better in the resale market.
Iced Out Rolex Collections
Now let’s get familiar with factory-iced-out Rolex watch models.
Rolex Datejust
The Datejust may be the most affordable Rolex, but the iced-out models from the Swiss watchmaker are anything but cheap. A simple yet extremely well-engineered iced-out model is the DateJust 36 126284RBR. It’s nothing like the “blingy” models you’d see in hip-hop videos, but classy nonetheless.
This watch has an Oystersteel and white gold case, which should be the highlight of its simplicity, but that’s not the case. It’s the pure mother-of-pearl dial that is unique to only one owner – authentic, handmade mother-of-pearls are never the same.
Next, the hour makers on this one-of-a-kind dial are embellished with 18-carat diamonds in white gold settings (the entrapment holding the diamonds). Perhaps the most obvious “ice” on this DateJust 36 are the 18-carat diamonds on the bezel. But this artistic infusion of white gold, mother-of-pearl, bedazzled by diamonds cost a whopping retail price of $41,000.
Rolex Daytona
The Daytona is a classic Rolex chronograph and racing watch attributed to fine life and the stars. World stars like Davido and Harry Kane can casually rock a factory-iced-out Rolex Daytona Rainbow because this half-a-million-dollar watch remains functional in the presence of gems.
And it’s been spotted on celebrities like Post Malone, Mark Wahlberg, and David Beckham. We never drool over the paparazzi in our articles, but I’m making a point that they often rock the iced-out Rainbow Daytona as an everyday watch.
This is the level of engineering and precision in gem setting that you can expect from every factory iced-out Rolex. The structure of the model is untainted, and there’s a machine-like alignment of the gems on the parts. The Daytona 116598RBOW-0001 is a true testament to this culture.
The bezel is fitted with rainbow-patterned sapphire crystals that will leave a mistress bedazzled. And you’ll see 56 diamonds of varying sizes cut into its everose case along the lugs, cut with 36 rainbow-colored sapphire crystals and 56 18-carat diamonds of varying sizes adorn the case and lugs; it’s just as sporty as an Oystersteel Daytona.
The Iced Out Day-Date, “The President”, is arguably the genesis for mainstream iced-out watches. The most influential hip-hop stars have worn an iced Rolex Presidential at a point in their career. During the 80s and 90s, the new-generation rapper even made it a rite of passage to own one. Coincidentally, the Day-Date is one of Rolex’s most produced factory iced-out models.
There are so many variations with diamonds, but I’ve fallen in love with the Day-Date 128348RBR. This timepiece has a sunset orange dial set with diamond Roman hour markers and is finished in a yellow gold case and oyster bracelet with diamond-adorned center links.
Rolex Yacht-Master
The Yacht-Master is another iconic watch that every enthusiast wants in their collection. It’s a core sports watch, so it’s very easy to disrupt the original design with over-the-top gem-setting. The Yacht-Master is the first chronograph with a bezel connected to the movement, which requires mind-blowing engineering. Rolex designers understood this assignment and simply stuck with a minimalist design.
So, they placed all the jewels that would otherwise affect its functionality inside the factory iced-out mode. The Yacht-Master 268655 has a dial paved with dozens of diamond stones – and an everose gold rimmed bidirectional bezel to sail or play in class. And there’s this custom Ice Rolex Yacht Master II 44mm, though expensive, which is less valuable on the aftermarket and evidently less functional than the original.
The GMT-Master II is a luxury tool for professionals who want to keep track of local time in two to three time zones. It achieves this with a 12-hour graduation bezel and an extra (GMT) hour hand.
Unsurprisingly, there’s no factory-iced-out model of this watch in production. However, there are many custom iterations of this watch. Cagau makes some nice ones, like sapphire cut bezels matching the original colorway and diamond cases and bracelets.
Rolex Submariner
The Submariner is Rolex’s flagship diving watch and one of the more renowned timepieces ever. While it’s a spectacular diving watch with 300-meter water resistance and is highly corrosion resistant, owners rarely ever take a swim with it. The Submariner, even in stainless steel, is an everyday watch, statement piece, or collectible for enthusiasts. That said, copping an iced-out model, like the Submariner Ref. 116659SABR-0001 isn’t farfetched.
It’s set in a 40mm 18k white gold case and matching white gold oyster bracelet. The gem setting design is brilliant: white diamonds on the lugs and beautiful blue sapphire and diamond bezel. While it’s not practical to dive with a bust-down Submariner, you can comfortably rock one as a statement piece at events or even casual wear.
Getting An Iced Out Rolex is a Lifestyle Choice
There’s no way to sugarcoat it. Getting an iced-out Rolex watch is a choice of taste and has no clear benefits over the regular stainless steel or precious metal models. Most custom-iced-out Rolex watches end up dropping in value, but their owners love them regardless.
Final Thoughts
Iced-out Rolex watches have come a long way as a statement timepiece for the affluent. Whether it’s a factory set Rolex Daytona, custom GMT Master, or a replica DateJust with fake zirconia diamonds, the goal is to stand out and be classy. And cutting your style according to your budget and taste. But like for the enthusiast looking for a blingy Rolex to add to their collection, your choice is limited.
You want an authentic factory-set Rolex that retains its value on the market, either for future swapping purposes or to avoid the risk of buying a custom model with fake or inferior stones. Shop the Exquisite Timepieces store for exclusive factory-iced-out Rolex watches.
The GMT and Submariner are some of the most popular Rolexes ever – and indistinguishable to some. Despite being almost identical at first glance, they have many different features and fundamental designs for separate audiences. All of which we’ll get into and then finally determine which collection stands out better.
Before we head in, though, I’ll have you know that neither of these timepieces trumps the other. It’s literally going to be a review that helps you decide which one to get first because you won’t want to miss out on either the GMT or Submariner once you get to know them.
Let’s get into it.
Rolex GMT History
The Rolex GMT-Master II was introduced in 1955 and quickly adopted by Airline pilots. It’s the fruit of Rolex’s stellar marketing prowess and ad campaigns. One of the early ways Rolex pushed the GMT was by partnering with Pan American Airways.
In their 1969 catalog, Brian Trubshaw was to wear a GMT Master on his record-breaking flight as the first British pilot of Concorde, the fastest commercial airline ever, and also the first female British pilot to take a solo round-the-world flight in a single-engine plane, Sheila Scott.
It’s safe to say the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master also debuted – and remains – a specialist watch for aviators, ship captains, navigators, world travelers, and pilots. It features a revolving 24-hour outer bezel and a GMT hour hand, which can tell the time for up to three timezones on the earth’s surface.”
The turning point for the GMT Master came in 1982 when a new movement had it renamed the GMT Master II. The new movement set local time without interfering with the GMT seconds or hours – a feature still seen in newer models as is.
A Tale of Two Times
Rolex released the GMT Master as a two-timezone watch for pilots. The original model featured a 24-hour bezel in blue and red, signifying nighttime and daylight, respectively. This trailblazing bezel was made from plexiglass and replaced in 1959 with anodized aluminum.
Many notable watches, like the Tudor Black Bay 58, still use the aluminum bezel today for a vintage appeal. But Rolex changed the GMT’s bezel to high-tech, scratch-resistant ceramic in 2005.
The dial is a classic. It debuted and remained the same 40mm black dial with Mercedes hands, multi-shaped markers, and date magnified by Cyclops lens. Safe to say, it didn’t take time until the larger market caught on to its design.
The dial carries the simple go-to Rolexas design of triangular, round, and baton, hour markers. It has four hands with eye-catching designs: the vintage “Mercedes” hour hand, the minute hand is a sword, the sweep second hand is a syringe, and the 24-hour hand is a red (varies based on model) arrowhead.
Like the Submariner, the GMT also has exceptional legibility, good enough that you can’t tell the difference between the two. This is more impressive when you know the Submariner is built to be readable in pitch darkness underwater.
Rolex GMT Master II watches are available in Oystersteel and Jubilee bracelets. It’s also the only collection with a polished center link that maximizes this timepiece’s dress appeal. It features a gridlock clasp system for safety and toolless adjustment to easily fit any wrist size.
Today’s Rolex GMT Master II has evolved into a three-timezone watch. Ultimately, the Rolex watch is built for pilots and frequent travelers who want a statement timepiece or have loved ones in another timezone.
Rolex Submariner History
Launched in 1953 and famously known for adorning the wrists of adventurers and icons, the Submariner is, interestingly, the first diver’s wristwatch with water resistance up to 100m (330 feet). Rolex pushed its excellence in engineering and R&D improving its resistance to 300 meters (1000 feet) in Submariners in 1979 for the date and ‘89 for the No Date.
The ref.6200 was the first Submariner to use the now “normal” Mercedes hour hands. It’s both a functional (keeps the hour hand visible when it overlaps with the minute hand) and iconic design.
Slow your horses down now, though; there’s no affiliation between Rolex and the German automobile manufacturer. It’s rather a nod to the Swiss watchmaker’s first ambassador, Mercedes Gleitze, swimming across the British Channel in the 20s.
Rolex Submariners also didn’t have their names boldly imprinted in earlier models. Rolex battled for patent rights until the 60s. Needless to say, Submariners have come a long way as the ultimate diving equipment they’ve become today.
Braving the Deep Seas in Style
Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic diver’s wristwatches of all time. Its design has remained largely the same as it was seven decades ago.
As an underwater tool, the Submariner has a corrosion-resistant Cerachrom bezel with a 60-minute graduated scale. Like the GMT, it has knurled (jagged) edges for easy gripping with gloves on, but the Sub has a luminous capsule on the zero marker for legibility underwater.
The Submariner and GMT share the same face shape dial markers with triangle, baton, and stick hour markers. And a narrower minute sword hand, Mercedes hands, and syringe seconds hand.
The only glaring difference here is the exception of a 24-hour hand. Also, there are four lines of text on the Sub’s dial, while GMTs only have three. The smoking gun on the Sub is a text saying, “1000ft = 300m.”
It’s also available in Oystersteel, Rolesor, and 18-carat gold. Most, if not all, bust-down models are customized by jewelers. By the way, the entry-level stainless steel models use the 904L Oystersteel, which is in the same class of alloys used for equipment in the aerospace and chemical industries.
It’s subtle material differences like this that sets Rolex apart from the crowd. One glance at the finishing, and you’ll be blown away. The case back is polished along the sides, giving it a refreshing, reflective finish you’ll appreciate more in person.
Since 2020, Submariners Dates and No Dates use Rolex’s latest innovation, the Caliber 3235 and 3230, respectively. They are matched equally with the GMT Master II movements for power, accuracy, and durability.
Rolex GMT vs Submariner: Which One Should You Choose
Considering that this article isn’t based on a personal opinion but an “objective” review of the subtle differences between these two iconic models, I will make a side-by-side comparison of both watches using their classic features as a point of reference.
With this, you can decide which one suits your fancy and maybe even develop a soft spot for one of them before you walk into the store to try them out.
I’ll tell you upfront. No watch review or vlog can do justice to how the Rolex GMT or Submariner feels on the wrist. But only you can put a word to it or describe this feeling. But this review will do some justice to some of the world-class craftsmanship you’ll experience.
Model Options
You have two of the most iconic watch collections to pick from. Which one would you choose a model from? That’s as pretty hard to say. But it’s not impossible to objectively decide which collection has the best model options based on specifications.
First of all, the GMT Master II beats the Submariner by having a higher number of models in the collection – 12 to 8. But that’s not what I’ll base an argument for best model options on; if that were the case, Rolex’s Datejust would be a better watch.
However, going by design and engineering, the GMT may just be the winner. All the models are two-toned and stand out as more of a dress watch than an everyday model (even though it’ll absolutely fit that role).
On the other hand, if you love a simple and fashionable Rolex, the Submariner would do; it’s the more popular of both collections. But there’s a new wave of enthusiasts taking to the GMT for its portability and stylishness.
Functions
The Rolex GMT Master II and Submariner are simple timepieces with no super complications. Nonetheless, the GMT is slightly more complicated because of its dual time zone function. It combines all the Submariner functions, including center hour, instant date with rapid setting (for date models), and stop seconds with a 24-hour bezel and an independent GMT hand with a rapid setting.
But the Submariner deservedly has a better water resistance of 300 meters compared to 100 meters of the GMT. While Rolex markets the Submariner as 1mm larger than the GMT, the difference on the face of the watch is way smaller – about 1/4th. It’s closer to 40.6mm than 41mm.
Build Quality
When you bring Rolex into a conversation, build quality isn’t a question. It’s a fact that all Rolex watches are almost entirely handmade by the most skilled craftsmen and airtight quality control system.
It takes a year to make one Rolex watch, so judging which one has a better build quality can be far-fetched, even delusional because they’re the same. Instead, I’ll do you one better and share how the workmanship on the GMT Master II and Submariner stand out.
First up is the dial. They both carry an Oystersteel case with a shiny finish on the dial and bezel, regardless of color variations. Some people don’t like this because it makes what’s meant to be a “professional tool watch” appear more “blingy” than “toolsy.” But you know it’s a fake Rolex without some small attention to detail.
There are “Rolex” inscriptions along the inside walls of the case, which I find attractive. Maybe it’s because my Fossil doesn’t have anywhere near his level of detail.
Moving on, I’ll bring your attention to a discrepancy that may or may not be important. The Submariner is only slightly bigger than the GMT. For instance, Rolex lists the case diameter as 41mm, but as I’ve pointed out earlier, it’s closer to 40.6mm, while the GMT is 40mm.
Needless to say, the Submariner has a pronounced lug-to-lug that would be attractive if you like square or bold watches. But I love the more rounded and discrete face of Rolex GMTs.
Movement
Both watches house truly exceptional movements that are kings in their own right. But technically, the GMT Master collection is more outstanding when you consider their second timezone function. Regardless, I’ll compare the Rolex GMT Master and Submariner Date’s movement for context.
The most recent GMT Master watches use the Caliber 3285, while current Submariner Date models, like the ref. 126610LN, carry Caliber 3235 movements. They both have 70 hours of power reserve, 31 jewels, 28800 vph frequency, and are chronometer certified (COSC). More so, they are the same size and accurate to +2/-2 seconds a day. The GMT’s only edge is the fact that you can read the time for up to 3 time zones.
Price & Availability
Clearly, you can’t just walk into a Rolex store to get a GMT or Submariner or buy one instantly online. All of these are true, to some extent, except the latter. And then there are other factors, such as desirability and rarity. For instance, it’s easier to get a black dial Submariner than it is to find a green “Hulk” Submariner.
The same idea goes for the Rolex GMT, except they’re even tougher to source if your dealer’s out of stock. Overall, it takes an average of 6-12 months from your trusted retailer to find a GMT or Submariner. But it takes up to 3 years if you ask an authorized dealer with whom you don’t have a good relationship or spending history.
All in all, the Submariner is relatively easier to buy because of its popularity and lower price than the GMT Master II. But they both have a good resale market. And it’s easy to find a trusted dealer online rather than bank on an authorized dealer for months or years. The only gripe is you may be restricted to the available models if you want a quick sale.
Value Retention & Investment
If you’ve been in the game long enough, you’ll know any Rolex watch, down to the cheapest DateJust, is worth the investment. And we can proudly say the same of any Rolex GMT Master II or Rolex Submariner model.
The Rolex Hulk, for example, was first introduced in 2010 and cost only about $9,000. It was discontinued in 2020 because of the changes to the Submariner collection – notably a bigger case. It was replaced by the Rolex Starbucks with the standard 41mm oyster case.
Anyhow, it currently costs anywhere from $20,000 to $50,000 for a pre-owned Submariner 1160010LV “Hulk” in mint condition. Likewise, the Rolex GMT 16700 in stainless steel, discontinued in 1999, still costs around $13,000 as of the time of writing this. If that’s not impeccable value retention and worthy investment, I don’t know what is.
However, limited availability plays a key role here, so I’d analyze recent models starting with the GMT Master II Pepsi Oystersteel in the jubilee bracelet. It officially costs only $10,900 from an authorized dealer but a mint-condition piece can easily sell for over $20,000 in the secondary resale market.
That’s over 100% return on investment for a GMT model watch that’s still in production. Overall, both the GMT Master and Submariner are valuable investment timepieces. You can expect 100% value retention for either of them in mint condition even a decade after purchase.
Notable Rolex GMT & Submariner Models
I know I mentioned how the Rolex GMT knocks the Submariner out of the pack when it comes to model options. Let’s take a deeper look into some of these GMT models and, of course, some iconic Submariners the watch enthusiasts can’t get enough of.
Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” ref. 126710BLRO
The GMT Master II “Pepsi” is one of the most iconic watches ever made. From its popularity among notable users to millions of knockoffs, it’s a must-have (the real deal, of course) for any serious watch collector.
Its moniker is a nod to its blue and red ceramic bezel, which resembles the official logo of the multinational soda brand. This color variation is one of the most common in the GMT Master II collection for its unmatched beauty and charm. Despite this, it’s not any cheaper or easier to get than other models.
Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” ref. 126710BLNR
A “Batman” is simply a GMT Master II with a black and blue bezel. It’s a sought-after Rolex GMT with a black dial and Jubilee or Oyster bracelet with polished center links. The dial and bezel take on a glossy finish like all Rolex sports watches.
It also uses the same in-house Caliber 3285 with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand like the Pepsi, Root Beer, Meteorite, or any GMT Master II.
Rolex GMT-Master II “Root Beer” ref. 126711CHN
The Root Beer GMT Master II is a step away from the usual Oystersteel models. It gets its name from the dark orange color of its Everose gold adornment. This precious stone embellishment makes it over $6,000 more expensive than a stainless steel version, with an official price of $16,500.
Here’s why. While not a full gold bust down, it’s a sublime combination of Everose gold and Oystersteel across notable parts of the timepiece. The two-color (black and red) bezel is gold plated around the knurled edges, and the 24-hour graduations are molded from Everose gold.
Further, the multi-shaped hour markers and hands are also plated with the root-beer colored Everose gold down to the crown. And the normally polished center links are replaced with Everose gold polish to give it a classic Rolex two-tone look.
Here’s another GMT Master with a dazzling case and dial. The Meteorite is the closest thing to a bust down in the GMT collection, and the most precious ornament isn’t your typical precious stone. It features an 18-karat white gold case and a diamond-like “meteorite” dial.
Rolex drew inspiration for the idea from the metallic patterns of the core of an asteroid – space rock – as it cools down upon entry into Earth. And they made the dial out of an actual piece of meteorite – the Gibeon meteorite.
This is the only model of the GMT Master II with this dial. And you bet it’s the most expensive, with an official retail price point of $42,900. The Meteorite is understandably more precious on the pre-owned market costing anywhere from $35,000 to $300,000.
There’s a slightly cheaper ($40,600) variation with a Midnight Blue dial instead, but the same white gold case. It debuted at an average of $33,000 in 2019 and now costs $40,600.
This is the go-to Submariner for collectors and icons who want a piece of the classic Diver watch. It’s in an Oystersteel case with a black-on-black bezel and dial combo giving it a simple yet bold and fashionable look, especially with its gloss finish.
The 126610LN uses the Rolex Caliber 3235 movement and Triplock triple waterproof screw-down crown for up to 300 meters of water resistance. I don’t see many Submariner owners diving in one, but it’s good to know that it’s a fully-capable underwater tool. As of 2020, this Rolex Submariner cost only $8,250 but is now worth $10,250 at retail price.
Rolex Submariner No Date ref. 124060
As the name of the dateless Submarine implies, it’s a typical all-black Submariner without a date window on the dial. But it’s just as beautiful and valuable as the Date option. The only technical difference is it uses a different movement: caliber 3230.
The No Date has the same build and resale value. The official retail price rose from $7,700 in 2020, during its launch, to $9,100 as of writing (2023).
Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” ref. 126610LV
This is an upgrade to the OG Submariner Kermit, which debuted in 2003. Aside from a longer case than the Kermit, the 2020 Submariner Starbucks houses a more efficient in-house Caliber 3235.
It’s a two-colored Submariner in Oystersteel case, a green ceramic bezel, and a black dial.
While the Starbucks is bigger and better, the Kermit is a great investment due to limited supply (discontinued) and a steady increase from collectors on never-ending waitlists. The most precious Kermit collectible is the 16610LV Mark 1, a 50th-anniversary model costing over $40,000.
The Submariner Starbucks is still in production and is also difficult to get. It currently has around seventy percent return on investment on the second-hand market at the official $10,800 retail price.
Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” ref. 126613LB
This is arguably the most beautiful Sub ever made. It’s essentially a two-tone Rolex Submariner with a dazzling blue dial and bezel. The dial is polished with a sunburst finish, yellow gold markers, and hands that are eye candy every moment you look down at the timepiece.
The yellow gold adornment also trickles around the edges and graduations of the blue ceramic bezel. It maintains the 41mm case of modern-day Submariners but is enhanced with yellow gold polish down the center and center links.
It also uses the latest Rolex Caliber 3235 movement with 70 hours of power reserve. Since its release in 2020 at a starting retail price of $13,600 it has leaped to $15,600 about three years later. So it’s safe to say price rises year by year.
Final Thoughts
When you try any of these watches out, picking one over the other is tough. And it almost always becomes a matter of which one you should buy first. Most time boiling down to budget, availability, or if a second time zone matters to you as much as diving depth. But, when it comes to design and build excellence, it’s a tie between the Rolex Submariner and Rolex GMT Master II.
Generally, I love functional and dressy timepieces that suit my style. I particularly love small-faced but complicated watches, and the GMT Master II perfectly fits that category for me.
It has a 40mm case and partially polished center link bracelet compared to the stocky 41mm of the Submariner. And the second timezone function seals the deal. I love how I can adjust my subconscious to the time of a loved one overseas as I pass the day.
How you pick a GMT Master II or Submariner is your choice. They have the same attention to detail and world-class Rolex workmanship that makes a statement and are equally “hot” investment purchases promising a tremendous resale value.
Breitling is a brand that needs no introduction. For over a century, they’ve been crafting precision timepieces that are equal parts stylish, legendary, and functional. But they also have created some of the most iconic chronograph watches in horology.
From pilots to divers, racers to adventurers, there’s a Breitling Chronograph for every lifestyle and every wrist size. The Exquisite Timepieces team selected the best in the industry to give you a comprehensive and awe-inspiring list of the best Breitling chronographs.
We’ll explore the classics, the modern marvels, and everything in between. So, sit back, relax, and prepare to have your mind blown by one or more models.
About Breitling Chronograph Watches
Breitling has a long history of designing chronographs for pilots, which we’ll look into in the next section. Breitling has a rich history of producing high-quality, innovative chronograph watches for pilots. And they’ve become synonymous with aviation over the years. Aside from partnerships with famous pilots, they developed the first wrist-worn chronograph in 1915.
But Breitling Chronograph watches are more than just aviation-inspired timepieces. They also have a strong presence in the diving world with their SuperOcean line of watches. In addition, the brand has a special edition watch for bikers and backpackers. And there are the sophisticated Premier and Navitimer collections that enshrine phenomenal historical events.
Another thing that sets Breitling Chronograph watches apart is their attention to detail. Each watch is meticulously crafted with the finest materials, from stainless steel and titanium cases to sapphire, plexiglass crystals. And with the brand’s commitment to accuracy, you can trust that your Breitling Chronograph watch will keep precise time. It’s no wonder these watches are a favorite among watch enthusiasts worldwide.
History of Breitling Chronograph Watches
The history of Breitling’s Chronograph watches started in 1884 when a young man named Leon Breitling decided to open a watch workshop in the Swiss town of Saint-Imier. Leon was an ambitious watchmaker who quickly gained a reputation for his craft. But it wasn’t until 1915 that the first Breitling Chronograph was born.
The Breitling Chronograph was a game-changer – it was the first chronograph watch created by Gaston Breitling that separated the chronograph pusher from the crown. This was a big deal back then, especially for pilots who needed to time their flights. But it was in the 1930s that Breitling hit its stride.
In the 1930s, Breitling started making watches specifically for pilots with a built-in slide rule. It was like having a mini computer on your wrist. And it wasn’t just pilots who loved these watches – astronauts and military personnel also fell in love with Breitling’s innovative timepieces.
The brand hit a rough patch in the 1970s with the Quartz crisis and Wily Breitling’s Health deteriorating. But then, in the 1980s, a new owner, Ernest Schneider, took over the company and breathed new life into the brand. Since then, Breitling has gone from strength to strength.
They’ve released countless iconic Chronograph watches, including the Navitimer, Chronomat, and Superocean. These watches have become classics loved and sought after by watch collectors worldwide.
Navitimer has to be one of Breitling’s longest and most popular collections. The first iconic watch in the collection was the 806 reference, designed in 1952 by Willy Breitling for US Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) members.
Rather than build a chronograph watch per the AOPA’s request, Wily, deciding to be innovative, developed a watch that could perform computational aviation functions. And this design has inspired so many other watches in the Navitimer collection, particularly the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46.
The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46, one of the most recent iterations of the 806 reference, is a stunning pilot watch. Its blue dial and sleek profile give it the look and feel of sporty dress watches, taking place amongst other trendy and contemporary luxury timepieces.
The polished and brushed finish on the 46mm stainless steel case and the bidirectional bezel are also quite beautiful and neat. On the blue dial sits three white sub-dials that add a pop of color and serve chronograph functions. The sub-dials include a 1/4th of a second, a 30-minute, and a 12-hour (with a date display) chronograph.
And these chronographs are powered by the COSC-certified B01 automatic chronograph movement, which can be seen through the watch’s open case back. Another thing to like about the dial is how it holds functional aviation-related features such as the bidirectional slide rule bezel, chronographs, minute, second, and hour hands and markers, and even the famous AOPA Breitling logo without appearing too busy.
Breitling’s Chronograph Automatic (Chronomat) watch was originally designed by Ernest Schneider in 1983 for the Freece Tricolor Jet team. It is an elegant aviation-style chronograph built with precision engineering for Italian pilots. It’s no wonder that the watch appears rather suave and graceful.
The Chronomat B01 42 features a stainless steel case measuring 42mm in diameter and 15.1mm in thickness. The watch is covered in glare-proof cambered sapphire crystal on both sides. Unlike the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46, this watch has a screw-down crown and a water resistance of up to 200m, making it suitable for swimming.
The British Racing Green dial and three gray subdials have a sunburst finish. So, depending on how the watch is angled, the dial and sub-dials can present dark green and black colors. The green dial is clear and has an easy-to-read design with luminous hands, markers, and a tachymeter scale for calculations.
As is typical with Breitling Chronomats, the ref. AB0134101L1A1 has four rider tabs on the unidirectional bezel. These rider tabs were initially designed to prevent the watch from breaking easily when accidentally knocked against the metal frame in the aircraft’s canopy.
However, these tabs have assumed a contemporary usage, allowing pilots and divers to count up or down during flights or dives. In the absence of notches, the tabs aid an easy grip of the bezel.
The Breitling Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 44 (ref. AB0162121G1S1) reflects the iconic 1950s Superocean design with the incorporation of modern technology. It is a dive watch with 200 meters of water resistance and a case size that measures 44mm in diameter and a thickness of 15.51mm.
The Ocean Classic strap, although made of rubber, has a similar side profile, pattern, and quality as that of the mesh bracelet. Note that the case size and strap length are designed for large wrists, preferably 16cm or wider. The perforations at the side of the strap only allow you to cut the strap to length without necessarily affecting the size.
The iconic features of this Superocean Heritage watch are the triangular-shaped hands and unidirectional ratcheted bezel. However, unlike conventional snapped-on bezels, the ref. AB0162121G1S1 has a captive bezel screwed down to prevent it from coming off the case at will.
The bezel pearl and hour markers are lume-treated, allowing for visibility underwater. At the center of the clean silver-toned dial are three chronographs: 1/4th of a second, 30-minute, and 12-hour counter, all powered by Breitling’s in-house Caliber B01 automatic movement.
This watch should have been on Luke Skywalker’s wrist when he destroyed one of the Death Stars during the Battle of Yavin. The watch sure looks like it’s ready to avenge its wearer. It was designed to keep up with flight adventures and fast-paced lifestyles.
The case has a huge profile that looks super thick, and like it’s made of titanium. Well, with a thickness of 16.46mm, it is thicker than most watches. However, the case is made of stainless steel and only measures 45mm in diameter. Despite its material, the case is shock-resistant and tough enough to withstand the most daring adventures, from jumping out of a plane to fighting off a bear (well, maybe not the bear part).
Like most Breitling chronograph watches, the Avenger Chronograph GMT 45 (ref. A24315101B1X1) has three sub-dial with a slight change from the conventional positions. But what sets this watch apart the most is its GMT function.
You can easily keep up with your jet-setting lifestyle by tracking multiple timezones on your watch with the 12-hour and military-standard 24-hour time zones. It also has a water resistance of 300 meters and 42 hours of power reserve thanks to the Breitling 24 Caliber self-winding mechanical movement.
Here’s a watch that takes you back to the Golden Age of aviation. This retro timepiece is a true time capsule inspired by the original Breitling AVI Ref. 765, created for pilots in 1953. It maintains some of the features of the original watch, such as the black dial with luminous vintage-inspired Arabic numerals.
The watch’s black dial retains its authentic look with gold-toned hour markers and three chronographs: 1/4th-second, 15-minute, and 12-hour chronograph timers. The case, made of stainless steel, measures 41mm in diameter and 14.05mm in thickness. But unlike the original piece, the Breitling AVI Re-Edition (ref. AB0920131B1X1) has a covering made of Plexiglas crystal.
On the stainless steel case is a very simple and unique bidirectional bezel. Instead of multiple numbers with numerous tiny markings, the bezel, like the vintage classic, features 12-hour makers in legible Arabic numerals. One distinct feature of the Breitling AVI Re-Edition (ref. AB0920131B1X1) is the 30 bars resistance which is an improvement.
The “GENEVE” inscription is also absent on the black dial. And unlike the Breitling AVI Ref. 765, which is powered by the Valjoux-178 movement, the AVI Re-Edition (ref. AB0920131B1X1) features the B09 Caliber, an in-house movement designed specifically for the brand’s historical re-editions.
Another Navitimer with a history? Let’s have it. The Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute (ref. PB02301A1B1A1) is a watch that will take you to the moon and back (well, maybe not the moon, but you get the idea).
The watch is a tribute to the original Navitimer Cosmonaute watch specially made for American astronaut Scott Carpenter, in 1962, during his three-time orbit around the earth in the Mercury-Atlas 7 spacecraft. It has a record for being the first Swiss watch in space and is only available in 362 pieces.
As a true Navitimer, the watch does have a bidirectional slide rule bezel to calculate nautical miles, average speed, fuel consumption, two gaskets, and a non-screw-down crown. It also has the chronograph function and a date window at the 6 o’clock position.
However, per Carpenter’s request, the black dial features a 24-hour time display in gold-toned Arabic numerals. Carpenter returned the original Navitimer Chronograph Cosmonaute to Breitling after he returned from space, and the watch suffered corrosion due to exposure to seawater.
Based on this experience, one would expect that a re-edition would come with a high water resistance. Well, that’s not the case, as the Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute (ref. PB02301A1B1A1) is only resistant for up to 3 bars. Actually, Navitimers are pilot watches, and they are only designed to be resistant to mild splashes. So, if you are keen on high water resistance, try something other than this collection.
As the name implies, the Breitling (ref. UB0136251B1S1) watch is super in every sense. For one, its 44mm stainless steel and 18k red gold case are super heavy, with the watch head alone weighing 137.4 g. Well, it’s not heavy enough to break your wrist, but you might want to consider other lightweight Breitling watches if you’re not a fan of heavy ones.
Weight aside, this watch has super captivating features. Let’s start with the watch’s look. Even though it has a hulking build, it’s beautiful. The blend of red-gold, black, and metal colors across the dial, bracelet, case, crown, and pushers is a captivating sight. What’s also fascinating are the rider tabs. Their bold presence and lume-treated numerals ensure visibility around the clock.
Furthermore, the Breitling Super Chronomat B01 44 has a tachymeter scale, three sub-dials, and a date window regulated by the screw-down crown and chronograph pushers. It is powered by Breitling’s in-house Caliber B01 automatic movement, which has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. It also has a water resistance of up to 200 meters for diving, swimming, or water activities.
The Endurance Pro (ref. X82310E51B1S1) is an all-Breitling watch, meaning that every part of the watch is a product of the brand. The case, for example, is made from Breitlight – a material that is 5.8 times lighter than stainless steel and 3.3 times lighter than titanium.
So, even though the watch measures 44mm in diameter and is 12.5mm thick, the watch doesn’t weigh down on your wrist. The watch head weighs only 35.5g which is way lighter than most. Apparently, Breitling’s goal was to design a lightweight and durable material perfect for endurance sports.
This material isn’t just lightweight; but durable and “toolsy.” It is corrosion and scratch-resistant, non-magnetic, and thermally stable. It is also hypoallergenic, so you don’t have to worry about the color fading, even when placed in water. Speaking of water, the case has a water resistance of up to 10 bars. Further, it uses Breitling’s signature rubber strap and the brand’s signature double tang-type buckle.
The Endurance Pro also runs on an in-house Breitling 82 Caliber thermo-compensated SuperQuartz movement, which has more precision and accuracy than a standard quartz movement. Other functional features include three chronograph sub-dials, a pulsometer, and a bidirectional bezel with a compass scale.
Now here’s something you don’t see every day – a chronograph watch for bikers, backpackers, and skateboarders. Contrary to what you’d expect, it doesn’t have the badass biker stereotype, but it will surely give you a sense of that adventure.
Inspired by Breitling’s Top Time watches from the 1960s, this limited edition is from a collaboration between Breitling and the custom motorcycle outfit brand Deus Ex Machina. It features a 41mm stainless steel case with a 14.27mm thickness and a relatively striking lacquered dial with red, yellow, and orange accents.
The dial is protected with a glare-proof convex sapphire crystal covering to prevent the watch from breaking easily. While the watch lacks a bezel, it does have a tachymeter scale on the outer edge of the dial, allowing you to measure speed as you race down the highway.
There are also two squircle-shaped chronograph counters positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock. The Breitling Top Time Deus (ref. A233112A1A1X1) is powered by Breitling 23 Caliber self-winding mechanical movement, which has a power reserve of 48 hours and water resistance of up to 3 bars.
The Breitling Navitimer 1959 Edition (ref. LB0910211C1P1) is a tribute to the original 1959 Navitimer. It is a luxury limited edition calculation chronograph that retains all the features of the original Navitimer ref.806 with a few modern concessions.
This Navitimer has two totalizers, one chronograph, a slide rule bezel, a platinum case measuring 41mm in diameter, domed plexiglas crystal, a blue tone-on-tone dial, an alligator leather strap, 70-hour power reserve, and a water resistance of up to 3 bars. It also has a “B” logo with wings, a nod to the original Breitling logo from the 1950s.
A true gem of the sea, the Breitling Superocean Chronograph 42 (ref. A13311C91B1A1) is the watch to set sail with. It features a 42mm stainless steel case which is 15.26mm thick and is attached to a stainless steel bracelet. It also has three chronograph counters at 6, 9, and 12, with a date aperture at 3 o’clock.
The black dial with bold silver-toned markers and hands is quite the stunner, giving the watch a rugged yet elegant look. But what’s even more intriguing is the black rubber-modeled unidirectional bezel.
It’s laudable that the brand thought to utilize rubber on the bezel since the watch is designed to spend a lot of time underwater. It not only adds to the case’s 200m water resistance, but it also enhances durability.
This sporty model is powered by the Breitling 13 Caliber self-winding mechanical movement, which features 25 jewels, a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, and 28,800 vibrations per hour.
This Super Chronomat model deserves an extra Super in its name. It maintains features similar to other Super Chronomats, such as a 44mm stainless steel and 18k red gold case and a blue ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel with rider tabs and minute markings at the upper half of the bezel.
There are also several ceramic inserts on the chronograph pushers, crown, and bezel. Additionally, it retains the tachymeter scale and sub-dials. However, the sub-dials slightly differ from the Super Chronomat B01 44 (ref. UB0136251B1S1). The Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar (ref. U19320161C1U1) has four sub-dials instead of three.
The one positioned at twelve is the 1/4th second chronograph which also acts as the date indicator. At the 9 o’clock position, the sub-dial acts as a 30-minute totalizer and month indicator, while the sub-dial position at 6 o’clock is the 12-hour totalizer and day indicator. There is also a moon phase sub-dial at 3 o’clock with “Breitling 1884” and the “B” logo engraved.
With the watch’s four-year calendar function, you only have to worry about adjusting the date every 1461 days or once or once every leap year. Unlike the Super Chronomat earlier reviewed, the Breitling (ref. U19320161C1U1) model is powered by the B19 Caliber – a functional self-winding mechanical movement with a lower power reserve (42 hours).
This watch was Breitling’s successful and impressive attempt at creating a smartwatch with a chronograph. It is a timepiece for the modern-day pilot, astronaut, and other wearers. The 2015 Breitling Exospace B55 (ref. EB5510H11B1E1) is designed with Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) connectivity. This means it can be synced with your smartphone via an app to provide notifications, seven daily alarms, and a GMT function.
Aviators will be fascinated by the flight-specific functions, such as a countdown and count-up timer for timing engine startup sequences and the watch’s ability to record flight takeoff and landing times. At the dial’s center are two small ultra-legible 12/24 hour LCD screens. The changes made on your smartphone are visible on the LCDs, and to turn them on, you can either tilt your wrist or press the crown.
Powered by the B55 Caliber SuperQuartz thermocompensated quartz electronic movement, the watch comes with a USB, a cord, and a long-lasting rechargeable battery. The battery life is impressive, as the watch can last fifteen days between charges.
At heart, this watch is still a classic timepiece. Thus the watch’s 44mm titanium case features a unidirectional bezel with rider tabs, conventional analog Arabic numerals, a crown, and pushers. It’s a healthy blend of classic and contemporary smartwatch features.
Inspired by the P-51 aircraft, built by a North American Aviation developer in the 1930s, this watch is a marvel of true engineering. With its stainless steel case and bracelet, the Breitling Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 P-51 Mustang (ref. AB04453A1B1A1) is built to withstand the most extreme aerial maneuvers.
It is equipped with a GMT and chronograph function, perfect for the jet-setting pilot who is always on the go. In addition, the watch has a dial aperture, two gaskets, one screw-down crown, a cambered sapphire crystal, 100 meters of water resistance, and a 70-hour power reserve.
The Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon Leon Breitling (ref. RB2120211G1P1) watch is a mouthful to say, but a watch worth every syllable. In true Breitling style, this watch is a part of the Premier line dedicated to paying tribute to the brand’s founders, in this case, Leon Breitling, and his vision for the company. So know that when you wear this watch, you wear a piece of history.
The watch’s 18k red gold case is 15.25mm thick and 42mm wide. It also has a tourbillon – a complicated mechanism that regulates the balance spring, balance wheel, and escapement, countering gravity’s effect on the parts and maintaining the watch’s accuracy. This tourbillon rests on a cream-colored dial with legible numerals and a chronograph.
Notably, the watch is powered by the Breitling B21 self-winding mechanical movement, which effectively combines the chronograph and tourbillon and has a power reserve of 55 hours. This exquisite movement is a product of a collaboration between Breitling and a renowned boutique movement maker, Manufacture La Joux-Perret.
Pricing: $61,000
Conclusion
Breitling Chronograph watches are the cream of the crop when it comes to craftsmanship, accuracy, precision, and classical pieces. Each watch offers a unique sense of style and a history-induced sentiment.
If you’re in the market for a Breitling Chronograph watch, you can’t go wrong with any of the 15 models we’ve covered. But let’s be honest; you don’t need all 15 of the best Breitling Chronograph watches. Unless, of course, you’re a billionaire playboy with a penchant for luxury timepieces. In that case, go ahead and treat yourself to one of each.
For the rest of us mere mortals, one or two Breitling Chronograph watches will do just fine. So pick a watch that speaks to you and wear it with style and confidence. After all, you’re not just telling time; you’re making a statement.
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