Author: William Boyd

Anyone coming into the watch hobby in the last 30 years likely has a story or anecdote of when they first realized that not all watches require batteries. 

As a millennial growing up in the 1980s and 90s, it made sense that all watches needed something to power them. And with the Swatch, Fossil, and digital Casio watches of the day representing the majority of timepieces I saw, it was clear that this must be the mode of power for all watches. Even the miniature grandfather wall clock in our living room was battery-powered. 

It wasn’t until my late teenage years that I finally learned that some watches, mechanical automatic watches, to be exact, were powered by something else. A mainspring, something wholly physical, without electricity and circuitry, as I had imagined in quartz watches being in all those years before.

What Is an Automatic Watch? 

Automatic watches are a marvel of engineering and craftsmanship. Unlike quartz watches that rely on batteries, automatic watches are powered by the motion of the wearer’s wrist. Inside the watch, there is a weighted rotor that spins as the wrist moves. This motion winds a mainspring that powers the watch’s movement.

The mainspring is connected to a series of gears that regulate the timekeeping of the watch. One of these gears is the escapement, which controls the release of energy from the mainspring. The escapement allows the gears to move in a controlled manner, keeping accurate time.

To ensure the watch stays wound and functioning, automatic watches also have a power reserve. This power reserve is a small amount of energy stored in the mainspring that allows the watch to continue running for a given amount of time, even when not being worn.

Overall, automatic watches are a testament to the ingenuity and precision of traditional mechanical watchmaking. They combine sophisticated mechanics and a sense of timeless design to create a timepiece that is both reliable and aesthetically beautiful.

Brief History of Automatic Movements

It’s believed that the first automatic watch movements were invented as early as the 1770s, with Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet of Le Locle providing the most credible evidence for a successful design. 

It was around 1776 or 1777 when his self-winding mechanism for pocket watches utilized an oscillating weight inside the watch, moving up and down to power it. That was also when another Abraham, Abraham-Louis Breguet, to be exact, became interested in automatic movements. 

Breguet’s first few attempts at a self-winding mechanism with a barrel remontoir proved successful. However, the manufacture was too expensive and complex to be sold en masse. It was then in 1779 when Breguet learned of Perrelet’s watches. He poured over the designs and, through his studies, improved upon them, producing many self-winding watches well into 1810. 

And yet, despite the advancements and patents filed up to this point, in the nearly one hundred years following Breguet’s work, automatic watches continued to be rare until the introduction of the wristwatch in the 20th century. 

After World War I, wristwatches became popular for their proven practicality and convenience on the battlefield. This led to a renewed interest in self-winding mechanisms, and various types (side-weight, center-weight, unidirectional winding rotor system) were soon applied in wristwatch form. 

Perhaps most well known today is Rolex’s “perpetual” self-winding rotor movement, first introduced in 1931, featuring a semi-circular shaped oscillating weight able to rotate 360 degrees freely in both directions, enabling their watches of the day to run up to 35 hours on a full charge (~70 hours is becoming the new industry standard). 

Automatic vs Manual Wind movements 

When considering mechanical watch options, it’s important to note that automatic and manual watches have particular pros and cons. 

Automatic watches, especially those from the 20th century onward, were developed with modern convenience and technical advances in mind. No longer needing to wind your watch meant less time needing to spend setting it if it died overnight, fewer chances of forgetting to screw down or push in the crown leading to water or moisture ingress, and less overall wearing down of the crown threads, which would lead to maintenance and repair costs down the road. 

But, with these modern conveniences, it can also be argued that automatic watches lose a certain romanticism found with traditional manually wound watches. The ritualistic winding of your watch daily in meditation, the beauty and comfort of thinner cases (after all, a winding rotor adds additional thickness), and the often accompanied display casebacks allowing you to view the movement in full without obstruction from a winding rotor. 

All of these attributes in manual watches lead to a more purist collector’s approach to watchmaking, and you’ll mostly find that the dressier traditional pieces will feature a manual movement. In contrast, the automatic watches in the market tend to be sports-centered, rugged, everyday pieces capable of taking a beating.

Automatic vs Quartz Movements

On the topic of quartz, we should also consider the benefits of automatic timepieces. If we’re to accept that manual watches have a certain romanticism tied to their mechanical “purity”, we can also apply this to automatic watches when positioning them against their quartz competitors. 

Automatic watches being self-powered continue the tradition of mechanical horology, which was nearly wiped out in the 1970s and 80s during the Quartz Crisis. For this reason, along with the overabundance of cheaply made and widely available quartz watches in today’s market, quartz often gets a bad name in watch collecting circles.

Yet, there are brands at the luxury and haute horology end of the spectrum creating their own quartz watches at the highest levels: Grand Seiko, and even independent darling, F.P. Journe, come to mind. 

What can luxury quartz watches provide? Reliability, hyper-accurate timing (+/- 10 seconds a year, in some calibers), less servicing, and lower long-term costs due to fewer mechanical parts. On the flip side, automatic watches will be more prone to servicing, much less accurate (-4 to +6 seconds per day being COSC standard), and more susceptible to impact, wear and tear.

What to Look For in Automatic Watches Under $1000?

So, you’ve decided to go automatic. What are some considerations to make in the sub-$1000 watch category?

Brand

There are many watch brands that occupy the sub-$1000 price category. The most popular with the widest variety and range of styles are Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, and Tissot, to name a few. Additionally, in the microbrand category, brands like Unimatic or Halios are independently run and often combine watch movements from outside manufacturers.   

Category

Perhaps the most important is to understand your use case. Do you require an everyday watch capable of the rigors of daily activity? Perhaps something dressier for formal occasions? Or do you need something more specific, like a dive watch to serve as backup on your next dive trip? Or maybe a field watch to help you on your next hike? 

Most of the watches we’ll discuss fall under these categories, with dive and field watches being the most popular for their rugged reliability and practicality, as well as dress watch options for those inclined. 

Movement and Power Reserve

Choosing an automatic watch is a conscious commitment to mechanical horology. While you don’t need to be a dictionary on every single watch movement, manufacturer, and jewel count, exposing oneself to automatic watches in the sub-$1000 range can be very beneficial. It opens up the ability to better understand the common calibers and their respective power reserves and qualities often used by various brands in the range. 
For example, the Seiko caliber 6R35, with its 70-hour power reserve (NH35 equivalent), is widely used across many watch styles and brands in this price bracket. Getting used to the terminology is a great way to foster an appreciation and deepen knowledge of the hobby.

Let’s explore. 

The Best Automatic Watches Under $1000

1. Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium

Tissot operates within the Swatch Group’s expansive portfolio of brands, representing the sub $1,000 price point among its brethren brands like Omega, Blancpain, and Breguet. Despite occupying a relatively more affordable price point, Tissot punches well above its weight, offering products that beat out competitors nearly twice the price in form, finishing, and function. 

The Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium is a perfect example of this. On paper and on the wrist, the Gentleman is a fairly straightforward watch toeing the line between sports and dress, with a 40mm diameter case, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 11.5mm thickness with inoffensive indices, hands, and dial text design.

But, where the Gentleman really shines is with its movement – the Powermatic 80 caliber with an 80-hour power reserve and silicon hairspring for better timekeeping and anti-magnetism. Both factors are incredible for a watch that retails at just under $800 and is feature sets more widely applied in timepieces multiples of this price.  

Retail Price: $795.00  

2. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80

A 300m diver with dashing good looks, the Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 is another great value proposition from the Tissot brand for those looking for something sportier and water-resistant. 

Measuring 43mm in diameter, 49.6mm lug-to-lug, and 13.3mm thick, the Seastar is not a small watch by any means but should fit well, filling the slot as your modern diver. 

And with its gradient blue dial, ceramic bezel (rarely seen on dive watches under $1000 until recent years), and 6 o’clock date window (so as not to upset dial symmetry), it’s truly a looker. 

Powering the watch is the Swatch Group’s ETA Powermatic 80 movement. While the Seastar doesn’t have a silicon hairspring or COSC certification, the 23-jewel automatic movement will still push 80 hours of power reserve – a useful feat when putting the watch down for a few days and picking it back up without needing to recharge it. 

Just keep in mind the 21mm lug width, which might be a minor nuisance if you plan to wear it on aftermarket straps.

Retail Price: $725.00

3. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

A smash hit ever since its debut, the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is a darling of the watch community for a good reason: handsome integrated steel bracelet styled looks, a solid mechanical movement, wide availability, and a number of attractive classic dial colors to boot. 

The PRX came into the market just as the steel sports integrated bracelet craze started to hit, and even as other brands continue to put their best offerings into the fray, none have yet captured the charm of the PRX. 

Looks aside, the Powermatic 80 housed inside the PRX is again a star. With an anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring holding an 80-hour power reserve in a single barrel, the wearer is also treated to a sapphire display caseback offering a view of the movement and rotor. 

Measuring nearly 40mm in diameter, 10.9mm thick, and 51mm lug-to-lug (from the actual bracelet point where the lug holes are found), the PRX should fit most wrists pleasurably.

Retail Price: $675.00

4. Seiko SRPE03 “Turtle”

The Seiko SRPE03 “Turtle” is a timepiece that blends rugged style with functionality. The overall design of the watch is a nod to Seiko’s rich history of producing dive watches, in particular, the 6309 originally launched in the 1970s into the 1980s. 

Though previous iterations of the “Turtle” exist in the SRP777 line and its color variations, the SRPE03 serves as a bit of an upgrade featuring a sapphire crystal with date/day magnifier, anti-reflective coating, and a stainless steel bezel with ceramic insert, the latter a feature not commonly seen in watches within the price point. 

Overall, despite the 45mm diameter case size (13.4mm thick with 47mm lug-to-lug), the watch wears well on a variety of wrist sizes due to the age-old “Seiko magic” of making big watches that wear small, in part due to the cushion case and relatively short lug-to-lug distance. With the added upgrades in the bold Turtle style, the SRPE03 is a great choice as a go-to diver in any watch collection.

Retail Price: $625.00

5. Seiko SPB117 “Alpinist”

The original watch launched in 1959, named the “Alpinist”, was, in fact, Seiko’s first true sports watch. In an era when mountaineering was taking hold for the general public, “yama-otoko” (Japanese mountaineers) required a watch that could handle the rigors of the outdoors. Water and shock resistance were of the utmost importance for a watch to handle the task. 

Today, the Alpinist has evolved but still holds true to those original principles of shock and water resistance. Now featuring an internal rotating compass ring, date with magnifier window (sapphire crystal), and the 6R35 movement featuring 70 hours of power reserve, the modern Alpinist is simply handsome in execution. 

And at 39.5mm in diameter, 13.2mm thick, and 46.4mm lug-to-lug, it’s also wearable in that Goldilocks zone of measurements for a majority of wrist sizes. And did we mention that water resistance? 200m for a non-dive watch is surely overkill, but we’ll take it.

Retail Price: $750.00 

6. Seiko SPB101 “Sumo”

A fan favorite ever since its launch in 2007, the Seiko “Sumo” is one of those Seiko divers that just about any Seiko dive watch fan would and should try out at any point in their watch collecting journey. 

Newly updated in the SPB101 (and its various color variants), the current generation of Sumo watches has a few new features sure to please the fans: a sapphire crystal which replaces the proprietary “Hardlex” of yesteryear, and the 6R35 movement with its 70-hour power reserve and 3Hz beat rate.

And though a ceramic bezel is not available in this line, for a few hundred dollars more, look to the “King Sumo” line (ex: reference SPB323) if ceramic is a must on your dive watch checklist. 

Where the Sumo shines is in its case shape and finishing for the price; lyre-style twisted lugs on its 45mm diameter and 12.6mm thick case help the watch wear smaller, though 52.6mm lug-to-lug may prove a challenge to smaller wrists if not worn on a strap.

Retail Price: $850.00

7. Seiko SPB143

Is there any current production Seiko dive watch more popular or celebrated in the watch collector fandom than the SPB143? No need to answer that; the SPB143 really is that good, and for a good reason. 

Following the trend of vintage aesthetics in modern-day build and sizing, the SPB143 is a modern reinterpretation of the legendary 62MAS, Seiko’s original skin diver launched in 1965. What it gets right is the sizing, detail, and level of finishing at such a great price, culminating in a perfect package for anyone looking to jump up to the next level in Seiko’s dive watch range. 

The case is 40.5mm in diameter, 13.2mm thick, and 46.5mm lug-to-lug, ensuring a fit comfortable for most wrists. And if you’ve experienced Seiko divers before, this one will feel altogether familiar and just right on the wrist; a more refined and compact Seiko SKX, if you will. Finished off with a 6R35 movement (70-hour power reserve) and sapphire crystal (that’s right; no Hardlex here), and you’ve got a tidy and handsome package of Seiko diver goodness.

Retail Price: $1,200.00

8. Seiko SPB077

Following the successful launch of modern reinterpretations of their famous dive watches of yesteryear (Such as the SRP777 “Turtle” two years prior), Seiko released the SPB077 in 2018 as a new interpretation of the 6159-7000 Professional diver, arguably Seiko’s most iconic watch design with its bold monocoque front loader case, 4:00 screw down crown, and Hi-Beat movement (I admit, I’m biased). 

The new diver features modern watchmaking tech such as a  proprietary super hard case “Diashield” coating, a sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating, and a streamlined case design (44mm diameter, 13.1mm thickness, 50mm lug-to-lug).

However, it lacks the monocoque case (screw down caseback here) and hi-beat movement for a dressier, “daily diver” look. With its focus on looks, the SPB077 is as handsome in the office or the ocean depths and is a strong contender for your one contemporary dive watch in a collection.

Retail Price: $1,050.00 

9. Seiko SRPB43 “Cocktail Time”

It’s often posited that Seiko “makes great dials”. In a modern context where watch enthusiasts are blessed to have such a wide breadth of choices from the brand, with dials of all sorts of textures, colors, materials, and patterns, it’s no wonder that “great” Seiko dials have become a given in the watch collecting community. 

In truth, Seiko has had a focus on strong dial design from the start (the linen dials of the King and Grand Seiko watches of the 1960s and 70s are a personal favorite). But it was with the launch of the “Cocktail Time” range of watches in recent years that this started to re-enter the public consciousness. 

The SRPB43 “Cool” dial was launched in 2017 as a new series within the line, once again inspired by various cocktails taking color and shape within their respective dial designs. 

Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, with a 47.5mm lug-to-lug, it wears a bit larger than a traditional dress watch, though the fantastic design and radiating dial can certainly be pulled off as one, particularly when paired with the stock strap. At the least, the watch is an eye-catching conversation starter at any formal dinner party.

Retail Price: $425.00 

10. Seiko SRPG03

Though Seiko is widely known for its robust and capable divers, as well as its variety of eye-catching dress watches with spectacular and beautiful dials, the SRPG03 is a bit of an anomaly in that it occupies both worlds. And it should really be more popular. 

Evoking the skin diver style watches of the 1960s, the SRPG03 is a “sporty” dress watch that combines an H-style case and (non-rotatable) bezel ala dive watch style, with unexpected Presage range dial finishing and design. Perhaps it’s this mix that confuses prospective buyers, who aren’t sure what the watch aims to be. 

But for those focusing on looks and aesthetic beauty, the 41mm diameter case (12.5mm thick and 48mm lug-to-lug) and sunburst dial with gold-colored indices is a revelation, unmatched by watches priced at nearly double the amount. Keeping in mind the 50m water resistance rating, it will still handle the occasional dip in the pool but will work best in the office when impressing others with your style.

Retail Price: $525.00

11. Seiko SPB165

You may be familiar with Seiko’s “Grammar of Design”, attributed to Taro Tanaka and his angular diamond-like cases, created as a distillation of Japanese aesthetic beauty in watch design (look no further than the Grand Seiko 44GS, for example).

And while the fundamental “grammar” has proliferated throughout Seiko watches in the decades since, perhaps no greater example in the Presage range of watches can be found than in the “Sharp Edged” series SPB165. 

The sharp, 44GS-like angles are all there, coupled with various polished and brushed surfaces strategically placed to accentuate light and shadow play to the user. The super hard coating ensures protection against scratches, and the elegant design is stressed further with temperate case sizing: 39.3mm in diameter, 11.1mm thick (or thin, if we’re being honest), and 47.2mm lug-to-lug.

100m of water resistance is a bonus, making the SPB165 a perfect daily modern sports watch with the all-familiar stylings of Seiko’s past. 

Retail Price: $1,000.00

12. Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200M (“Challenge Diver” aka “Fujitsubo”)

No stranger to the sub-$1000 price range, the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200M is yet another solid titanium dive watch offering from the Japanese brand. Though mostly known for their quartz-powered Eco-Drive watches, the in-house calibre 9051 powering the Promaster is anti-magnetic to 200 Gauss, running at a frequency of 4Hz and 42 hours of power reserve.

However, it could use a bit more dialing in on precision, given its deviation rating of -10 to +20 seconds a day. Measuring 41mm in diameter, 12.3mm thick, and 48.5mm lug-to-lug, the Promaster is a modern dive watch in size, despite harkening back to the original “Challenge Diver” of 1977 in design.

In fact, it’s a very near recreation of the infamous diver from the 70s for those looking for a more vintage-inspired look and is a great alternative for those wanting to step away from the usual Seiko dive watch suspects in the price range. 

Retail Price: $795.00

13. Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic (AL-525NW4S26)

In the realm of pilot watches around the $1,000 price point, Alpina has released many models within the Startimer Pilot range. Among the collection, the Pilot Automatic Petroleum Blue 41 is particularly attractive.

Measuring 41mm in diameter, 11.5mm thick, and water resistant up to 100m, the “Petroleum” matte blue of the dial is contrasted nicely with white Arabic numerals and indices with luminous treatment for visibility in the dark. 

The hands are hand-polished silver in color and also lumed for increased visibility. The watch’s looks, bezeled design, and finishing are particular highpoints, along with its convex sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflection coating.

The AL-525 caliber automatic movement features a 38-hour power reserve and is available on a brown calf leather strap with off-white stitching to help pull in the white indices and numerals on the dial.

Retail Price: $1,195.00

14. Laco Pilot Augsburg 42

Produced in Germany, Laco was founded in 1925 and continues to manufacture a range of classic Flieger-style watches and contemporary designs today. Of the former, the Laco Pilot Augsburg 42 is perhaps the best deal in Flieger-style watches available on the market. 

The stark black dial with numerals and hands filled with luminescent Superluminova C3 are unmistakable, coupled with a brown calf leather strap and rivets, a look particularly evoking the mid-20th century design the Augsburg 42 aims to reproduce. 

At 42mm in diameter, 11.75mm thick, and 50mm lug-to-lug, the Augsburg 42 is great for a pilot watch, offering high levels of visibility across its open dial. Powered by the well-known and proven workhorse Miyota 821A movement, the watch allows for both manual and automatic winding, the former through the use of its relatively large crown, remaining faithful to the styles of yesteryear.

Retail Price: $410.00

15. Marathon 36mm Arctic MSAR Automatic (WW194026-WD)

Launched in 2020, the “Arctic” white dial variation of the 36mm Marathon MSAR (short for “Medium Search And Rescue”) has become a cult-classic offering among true tool watch enthusiasts. Indeed, the Canada-based brand has continued to produce watches for various military forces worldwide since its founding in 1939 and is proven effective day in and day out by those putting them to hard use in the field. 

The Arctic MSAR is a bit quirky and probably not for everyone. It’s small and chunky, with a 36mm diameter case, 14mm thickness, and 43mm lug-to-lug, but that quirkiness is definitely part of the charm. It’s a watch that wears rather comfortably despite the odd sizing, and with the Arctic’s white dial contrasted with black numerals and outlined hands, it’s highly visible for such a small dial. Throw in the tritium gas tubes for added legibility in the dark, and the MSAR takes the cake on rugged reliability and altogether charm.

Retail Price: $1,100.00 (on strap)

16. Orient Kamasu

As Seiko dive watches continue an upwards march in price and specifications, Orient Watch (a subsidiary of Seiko Epson) continues to fill in the void left by the brand. When the cult classic diving watch, the Seiko SKX, was finally discontinued, the Orient Kamasu revealed itself to be a classically styled alternative for those looking for another capable yet affordable Japanese diver. 

At 41.8mm in diameter, 12.8mm thick, and 46.8mm lug-to-lug, and offered in a range of attractive colors (red, blue, black, green), the Kamasu is an agreeable size for most wrists, with punchy dive watch styling inspired by the fearsome barracuda with teeth-like markers and hands. The sapphire crystal is particularly of note in the price range, and the 40-hour power reserve caliber F6922 is known to be accurate and reliable. 

Retail Price: $550.00 

17. Doxa Sub 200

For a company that co-developed the helium escape valve with Rolex in the 1960s and was worn and retailed by Jacques-Yves Cousteau himself, it can be said that Doxa received the short end of the dive watch history stick for being a bit more under the radar and lesser known than the influential dive watch companies of the day. The classic cushion case Sub 300 and Sub 300T lines were eventually revived and built upon in the early 2000s. 

The brand, undergoing a change in leadership more recently, has entered a bit of a renaissance in popularity for its iconic designs and colorful dials across its range of dive watches. As an entry-level option, the Sub 200 (measuring 42mm in diameter, 15mm thick, and 45mm lug-to-lug) is a great introduction to the brand, with its combination of lyre lug case shape, beads of rice bracelet and full diving chops (rated to 200m water resistance). A no-brainer for a watch oozing vintage style. The only question is, which color?

Retail Price: $990.00

18. Unimatic U1 Classic

Founded by two industrial designers in 2015, Milan-based Unimatic produces minimalist sport watches capturing the essence of aesthetic design, functionality, and affordability. The U1 “Classic” is just that. 

Reduced to a spartan black bezel and plain dial decorated only with luminescent markers and hands, with the UNIMATIC branding and “CLASSIC” badge following suit, this watch can be considered the “Chuck Taylor” shoes of the watch world; it goes with everything. 

And while the clean design is a focus, the workhorse Seiko NH-35 movement powering it inside and 300m of water resistance proves the U1 Classic to be a powerhouse workhorse in its own right, ready to be put through the paces of daily wear and more. Measuring 41.5mm in diameter (with bezel), 49mm lug-to-lug, and 13.6mm thick, and sold on a nylon strap, if you’re looking for a clean and capable watch, look no further than the U1 Classic.

Retail Price: $550.00

19. Certina DS PH200M

A historically fan-favorite design of Certina, the DS PH200M dive watch was most recently updated in 2020 to include a sapphire crystal and a black or blue dial with gilt accents. Based on the original 1968 DS PH200M, one of the first Certina dive watches, the watch is most characterized by its charming broad bezel (ceramic upon the recent update) with a fully graduated bezel insert and clean cross-hair dial design. 

At 42.8mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and 51mm lug-to-lug, the watch isn’t modest but is certainly fitting for a dive watch on a modern scale and should fit nicely on most wrists when paired with a NATO-style strap. Completed with the Caliber ETA Powermatic 80.611, the 80 hours of power reserve is yet again a Swatch Group bonus movement for the price range.

Retail Price: $980.00

20. Timex M79

Looking for a larger, beefier, mechanical version of the infamous Timex Q? Look no further than the Timex M79, similarly based on the 1970s aesthetics made famous in recent years with the quartz Q. 

Measuring 40mm in diameter and 14.4m thick, with 46mm lug-to-lug measurement, the bolder case size of the M79 helps accentuate the sharp angles and impressive case finishing for a watch within the affordable price point. 

With a unidirectional wide bezel, and date and day function, the M79 is powered by an automatic Miyota caliber featuring 42 hours of power reserve, quickset day/date, and a 21,600bph frequency.  

Retail Price: $289.00

21. Orient Bambino 38mm (RA-AC0M04Y)

A long-time go-to contemporary classic dress model in the watch world for many just entering the hobby, the Orient Bambino was recently re-introduced in a more compact 38mm size. To be exact, the watch measures 38.4mm in diameter, 12.5mm thick, and 44mm lug-to-lug compared to its larger 40.5mm variant in past years. 

Powered by the in-house automatic Orient Calibre F6724, a new generation movement now featuring hacking seconds and hand-winding (along with automatic winding via the rotor), the 38mm Bambino is striking and now better suited for a variety of wrists in its smaller size. Of note is the domed mineral glass, accentuating the champagne dial and ageless looks. 

Retail Price: $410.00

22. Stowa Marine Classic 36 (Arabic or Roman)

Stowa is a watch manufacturer more commonly associated with Flieger-style pilot watches. Yet within the Marine Classic range, Stowa creates some of the best modern takes on classic Marine chronometer watches with varying levels of customization (ex: movement, dial type, with or without date). 

Think clean white dials, time-only functionality, and temperature-blued steel hands in a classic case shape worn on leather straps. When selecting an automatic Sellita caliber SW200, you’re getting a ton of value and charm in timeless, classic style (36mm diameter, 10.2mm height, 44.6mm lug-to-lug).

Retail Price: 980.00 EUR

23. Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto (H32475640)

The Jazzmaster line within Hamilton’s range of watches has long been known for its contemporary and modern style, coupled with the refined construction and finishing of the brand at affordable prices. 

In the Jazzmaster Auto (reference H32475640), we have an attractive blue dial daily dress watch in 40mm diameter and 11.05mm thickness, with a blue sun-brushed dial and silver diamond shape markers, silver minutes track on the outer dial, and dauphine style hands. The blue datewheel with white text is a nice touch speaking to the level of detail applied by the brand when most others would likely opt for a white datewheel for manufacturing efficiency. 

Retail Price: $895.00

24. Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38 (H70455133)

The Khaki Field range of watches from Hamilton is synonymous with field watches at this point. And for a good reason. Built with practicality in mind, the Khaki Field Automatic represents a classic field watch style with a seconds track, hour, and 24-hour marker dial, all housed within a 38mm case (11mm thickness, 47mm lug-to-lug). 

Upgraded with an automatic H-10 movement (modified ETA C07.111 with 80-hour power reserve) and steel bracelet, the watch is also rated to 100m water resistance, proving its field watch style is ready and capable for any adventure thrown at it.

Retail Price: $725.00

25. Unimatic Modello Due U2S-T-MP In Titanium (U2S-T-MP)

A slim, lightweight titanium field watch with 300m water resistance and iconic Unimatic styling? Say no more! A modern take on the field watch, Unimatic uses sandblasted grade II titanium to achieve a 45% lighter case, measuring 38.5mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and 47.5mm lug-to-lug. 

Powered by the proven workhorse Swiss movement, Sellita SW200-1, the blue dial coupled with white hands and markers (filled with BGW09 Super-Luminova) take the Modello Due to a new level of playfulness (and comfort) when compared with the relatively stark gray and black color models of past releases. 

Retail Price: $900.00

Conclusion

Automatic watches are the heart and soul of modern watchmaking. Continuing on the mechanical tradition of horology in the face of technological advances such as quartz and the smartwatches of today, purchasing an automatic watch is a conscious decision to keep that sense of watchmaking alive in a time when planned obsolescence and the digitization of everything surrounds us. 

No matter which automatic watch you choose, be proud of your decision and take comfort in knowing that your watch can be maintained, will live on, and can be passed down to future generations after you. So, which watch do you choose?

With the advancement in technology, watches have become more than just a timepiece. They now come equipped with various features that cater to different needs and requirements. One such feature is the pulsometer, a specialized scale that allows the wearer to measure their heart rate. 

A pulsometer is a must-have feature for medical professionals, athletes, and fitness enthusiasts who need to monitor their heart rates regularly. 

In this article, we will explore some of the top watches with a pulsometer currently on the market. We will look at the different styles, features, and prices of these watches to help you make an informed decision when choosing the perfect watch for your needs.

We will cover a range of brands and models, including luxury watches from high-end brands, as well as more affordable options, such as microbrands, that offer great value for money. From classic designs to more modern and futuristic styles, there is a pulsometer watch for everyone.

About the Pulsometer Complication

In the early 19th century, physicians began using a pulsometer to measure a patient’s heart rate. This device consisted of a small clock with a second hand that would be started when the physician began counting the patient’s pulse.

The physician would then stop the clock after a predetermined number of seconds had elapsed, and the number of ticks on the clock’s second hand would indicate the patient’s heart rate. Watchmakers soon realized that they could incorporate this function into their timepieces by adding a pulsometer scale to the watch’s dial.

The scale typically consists of markings that indicate the number of heartbeats per minute, along with a chronograph function that can be used to time the pulse. Patek Philippe made one of the earliest examples of a watch with a pulsometer scale in the late 1800s.

This watch featured a white enamel dial with black Arabic numerals and a red pulsometer scale. Other watchmakers soon followed suit, and by the early 20th century, pulsometer watches were popular among doctors and other medical professionals.

In addition to their medical applications, pulsometer watches were also prized for their aesthetic appeal. The combination of a sleek, elegant watch with a useful medical function made these timepieces highly desirable among collectors.

Today, several high-end watchmakers still produce pulsometer watches, including Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. These watches typically feature a chronograph function with a pulsometer scale on the dial and other advanced features, such as a tachymeter scale for measuring speed or a moon phase indicator. 

What Is The Purpose of Watches With a Pulsometer?

Watches with pulsometers serve a very specific purpose: measuring a person’s heart rate. This is a useful feature for athletes, doctors, and anyone who needs to keep track of their heart rate for health or fitness reasons. For athletes, a pulsometer watch can help them monitor their heart rate during exercise.

By timing their pulse using the watch’s chronograph function and pulsometer scale, they can ensure they stay within their target heart rate zone for optimal training results. This can help them avoid overexertion or under-exertion and ensure they get the most out of their workouts.

For doctors and other medical professionals, a pulsometer watch can be a valuable tool for diagnosing and treating patients. By measuring a patient’s heart rate with the watch’s chronograph and pulsometer scale, they can quickly and easily determine if the patient’s heart rate is too high or too low.

This can help them identify potential health problems and take appropriate action to treat them. Watches with pulsometers can also be useful for people monitoring their heart health for medical reasons.

For example, someone with a heart condition may need to monitor their heart rate regularly to ensure it stays within a specific range. A pulsometer watch can make this process much easier and more convenient than using a separate pulse measurement device.

The Best Watches With a Pulsometer

1. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK2998 PULSOMETER 311.32.40.30.02.001

The Omega Speedmaster CK2998 Pulsometer is a limited-edition timepiece that pays homage to the original Speedmaster CK2998 model, which was introduced in 1959 and became one of the most popular and iconic models in the Speedmaster collection.

The CK2998 Pulsometer features a 39.7mm stainless steel case with a polished finish and a black ceramic bezel with a pulsometer scale. 

The lightly sandblasted silver dial of the CK2998 Pulsometer is adorned with three subdials: a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The hour and minute hands are gray, and the seconds hand is red, offering a pop of color. 

The movement powering the CK2998 Pulsometer is the Omega Caliber 1861, a hand-wound chronograph movement known for its reliability and precision. The watch has a power reserve of 48 hours and is water resistant up to 50 meters. The CK2998 Pulsometer is limited to 2,998 pieces and comes with a black leather strap.

Price: $10,700 

2. LONGINES PULSOMETER CHRONOGRAPH L2.801.4.23.2

The Longines Pulsometer Chronograph is a classic timepiece that combines elegance and functionality. Inspired by vintage medical watches, this watch features a pulsometer scale that allows the wearer to measure their heart rate quickly and accurately.

The timepiece features a 40mm stainless steel case with a polished finish. The white dial is adorned with a pulsometer scale on the outer rim and two subdials: a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, and a date window at 6 o’clock.

The hour markers and hands are made of blue steel, adding a touch of sophistication to the watch. The movement powering the watch is the Longines Caliber L788.2, a self-winding mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 54 hours.

The timepiece is water resistant up to 30 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear. The watch comes with a brown leather strap with a buckle clasp that complements the vintage-inspired design of the watch. 

Price: $2,150

3. BLANCPAIN VILLERET CHRONOGRAPHE FLYBACK PULSOMÈTRE 6680F 3631 55B

The Blancpain Villeret Chronographe Flyback Pulsomètre is a stunning timepiece that seamlessly blends traditional design with modern functionality. Named after the brand’s birthplace, the Villeret collection is known for its understated elegance and high watchmaking standards.

The watch features a 43.7mm rose gold case with a polished finish. The white dial is adorned with a pulsometer scale on the outer rim, two sundials, and a date window. The hour markers and hands are made of rose gold.

The movement powering the Blancpain Villeret Chronographe Flyback Pulsomètre is the in-house Caliber F385, a self-winding mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 50 hours. The flyback function allows the wearer to reset and restart the chronograph with a single push of a button, making it ideal for timing events with multiple phases.

The watch is water resistant up to 30 meters. The timepiece comes with a brown leather strap with a folding clasp that complements the watch’s sophisticated design. 

Price: $33,000

4. ORIS BIG CROWN ROYAL FLYING DOCTOR SERVICE LIMITED EDITION II 01 735 7728 4084-Set LS

The Oris Big Crown Royal Flying Doctor Service is a distinctive and rugged timepiece that pays tribute to the Royal Flying Doctor Service of Australia. The watch is designed to be both functional and stylish, with a unique blend of aviation and medical themes.

The watch features a 45mm stainless steel case with a coin-edge bezel. The black dial is easily readable with white numbers and markers. There’s a pulsometer in dark orange on the outer rim. There’s also a day and date display window at the 3 o’clock position.

The timepiece is powered by the Oris Caliber 735, a self-winding mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 38 hours. The watch is water resistant up to 50 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

The watch comes with a brown leather strap with a folding clasp that complements the vintage-inspired design of the watch. Limited to 2,000 pieces.

Price: $2,000

5. PATEK PHILIPPE CHRONOGRAPH 5170J-001

The Patek Philippe Chronograph is a classic and elegant timepiece that is a masterpiece of Swiss watchmaking. This watch is part of the company’s flagship collection, the Calatrava line, and is renowned for its precision, reliability, and sophistication.

The watch features a 39mm case made of 18k yellow gold, giving it a luxurious and timeless appeal. The silver dial is adorned with Arabic numerals and gold hour markers, and the two subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock display the 30-minute counter and the small seconds, respectively.

The watch also features a pulsometer scale on the outer rim. The movement powering the 5170J-001 is the Patek Philippe Caliber CH 29-535 PS, a hand-wound mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 65 hours.

The watch is water-resistant up to 30 meters, making it suitable for occasional splashes and rain. The 5170J-001 comes with a brown alligator strap with a folding clasp that complements the watch’s elegant design. 

Price: $52,566

6. A. LANGE & SÖHNE 1815 PULSOMETER CHRONOGRAPH 414.028

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 is a stunning example of the German brand’s uncompromising dedication to traditional watchmaking techniques and exceptional craftsmanship. This watch is part of the 1815 collection, which pays tribute to the birth year of Ferdinand A. Lange, the company’s founder.

The timepiece features a 39.5mm case made of 18k white gold, with a sapphire crystal case back that allows a view of the beautifully decorated hand-wound mechanical movement. The black dial is adorned with silver Arabic numerals and hands, giving it a classic and timeless appearance. The dial also features a pulsometer scale.

The movement powering the 1815 Pulsometer Chronograph is the A. Lange & Söhne Caliber L951.5, a hand-wound mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is beautifully finished with traditional techniques such as hand-engraving, chamfering, and polishing and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

The watch comes with a black alligator leather strap with a white gold buckle, completing the understated and elegant design. The 1815 Pulsometer Chronograph is water resistant up to 30 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

Price: $50,522 

7. VACHERON CONSTANTIN HARMONY CHRONOGRAPH CALIBER 3300 5100S/000R-B623

The Vacheron Constantin Harmony is a beautiful and sophisticated timepiece. The timepiece features a 42mm case made of 18k rose gold. The silver-tone dial is adorned with rose gold hands and markers, and the two subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock display the 30-minute counter and the small seconds, respectively.

The watch also features a pulsometer on the outer rim of the dial. The movement powering the Harmony Chronograph is the Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3300, a self-winding mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 65 hours.

The movement is beautifully finished with traditional techniques such as Côtes de Genève and perlage and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The watch comes with a brown alligator strap with a rose gold folding clasp that complements the watch’s elegant design.

The Harmony Chronograph is water resistant up to 30 meters, making it suitable for occasional splashes and rain.

Price: $65,800 

8. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CHRONOSCOPE 329.30.43.51.03.00

This timepiece combines the iconic Speedmaster design with a 40s vintage vibe. The stainless-steel case features a blue dial with silver numerals, markers, two subdials, a pulsometer, and small seconds. 

The timepiece is powered by the in-house 9908 with a 60-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 50M. All this is paired with a stainless-steel bracelet. 

Price: $6,000

9. JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER COMPRESSOR DIVING CHRONOGRAPH WITH PULSOMETER Q1862640

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master is a robust and versatile watch designed for the needs of professional divers and athletes. This timepiece is part of the prestigious Master Compressor series, renowned for its precision, durability, and functionality.

The watch features a 44mm stainless steel case that is water resistant up to 1000 meters, making it suitable for deep-sea diving. The black dial features luminescent hands and index hour markers. The dial also features a date display at the 4 o’clock position and subdials that include a pulsometer.

The chronograph function is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Caliber 757 movement, which is a self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of up to 65 hours.

The watch comes with a black rubber strap that is comfortable to wear and complements the watch’s sporty yet elegant design. The strap features a double folding clasp with a safety release, which ensures a secure and comfortable fit.

Price: $17,995 

10. GRAHAM CHRONOFIGHTER VINTAGE PULSOMETER 2CVCS.U14A

The Graham Chronofighter Vintage Pulsometer 2CVCS.U14A is a stunning timepiece that combines vintage aesthetics with modern functionality. The watch is part of Graham’s Chronofighter collection, which is renowned for its precise timing and rugged construction.

The watch features a 44mm stainless steel case with a polished finish that gives it a classic and timeless appearance. The blue dial features gold ring hands. There’s a day and date window at 9 o’clock. The dial also features a pulsometer scale.

The watch’s chronograph function is powered by Graham’s Caliber G1718 movement, which is a self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of up to 48 hours. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case back, showcasing the movement’s beautiful finishing and precision engineering.

The watch comes with a blue leather strap that is comfortable to wear and complements the watch’s vintage aesthetic. The strap features a stainless-steel buckle with Graham’s signature logo, adding elegance to the overall design.

Price: $5,450 

11. MONTBLANC MEISTERSTÜCK HERITAGE PULSOGRAPH 111626

The Montblanc Meisterstück is a luxurious timepiece combining classic design and modern features. This watch is part of the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage collection, celebrating the brand’s 90-year history of crafting fine writing instruments and accessories.

The watch features a sleek 41mm rose gold case with a polished finish paired with a black alligator strap that provides both comfort and sophistication. The silver dial is elegantly designed with mixed pink-tone gold Roman numeral and markers, rose gold sword-shaped hour and minute hands, a blue seconds hand, and a pulsometer scale.

The watch is powered by the Montblanc MB M13.21 automatic movement, which provides accurate timekeeping and a power reserve of up to 55 hours. The movement can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case back, which also displays the iconic Montblanc star emblem.

In addition to its classic design, the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph 111626 also includes modern features such as a date display at 6 o’clock and a chronograph function that measures elapsed time up to 30 minutes.

These features are operated by pushers located on either side of the crown, which is adorned with the Montblanc emblem.

Price: $32,400 

12. TAG HEUER MONZA CR2080.FC6375

TAG Heuer Monza is a sleek timepiece that combines classic design with modern technology. The watch features a striking 42mm black titanium carbide-coated steel case paired with a black perforated leather strap that provides both comfort and style.

The black dial is elegantly designed with two chronograph subdials, a sporty red seconds hand, and the TAG Heuer logo in white. The watch is powered by the TAG Heuer Calibre17 automatic movement and a power reserve of up to 42 hours. This model includes a date display at 6 o’clock, a pulsometer, and is water resistant to 100m.

Price: $5,950 

13. BELL & ROSS BR V2-94 GARDE-CÔTES CHRONOGRAPH BRV294-ORA-ST/SST

This Bell & Ross timepiece is inspired by the Garde-Côtes, which is the French Coast Guard. This watch is designed to be durable and reliable, making it ideal for professionals who require a watch that can withstand the demands of their job.

The case is made from stainless steel, which is durable and corrosion-resistant. The case measures 41mm in diameter. The case is also water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, making it suitable for swimming and snorkeling.

The watch’s dial is gray with white and orange accents, giving it a sporty look. The hour and minute hands and indices markers are white. The seconds hand is orange.  The watch is powered by the BR-CAL.301 automatic movement.

The movement has a power reserve of 42 hours and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The watch features a chronograph, date, and pulsometer. The timepiece is paired with a stainless steel bracelet. 

Price: $3,350 

14. LONGINES ASTHMOMETER-PULSOMETER CHRONOGRAPH L2.787.4.16.2

This watch is inspired by the medical chronographs that were popular in the early 20th century and are designed to measure the respiratory rate and pulse of the wearer.

The case of the Asthmometer-Pulsometer Chronograph is made from stainless steel and measures 38.5mm in diameter. The case is also water resistant to a depth of 30 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

The dial of the watch is white with a gold 12 and gold markers and hands. The dial is easy to read and has a classic and elegant look. The dial also features three subdials, one for the 30-minute counter, one for the small seconds, and one for the column wheel. 

The watch is powered by the L688 automatic movement. The movement has a power reserve of 54 hours and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This particular timepiece features a pulsometer and asthmometer scale around the outer edge of the dial. 

The strap of the Asthmometer-Pulsometer Chronograph is made from black alligator leather and has a stainless-steel buckle. The strap is comfortable to wear and adds to the classic and elegant look of the watch.

Price: $1,866 

15. ETERNA PULSOMETER LIMITED EDITION 1942 1942.41.64.1177

This timepiece is designed to measure the wearer’s pulse rate and is inspired by the medical chronographs that were popular in the 1940s.

The case of the Pulsometer Limited Edition is made from stainless steel and measures 42mm in diameter. The case is also water resistant to a depth of 50 meters, making it suitable for swimming and snorkeling.

The dial of the watch is silver with blue hands and green numerals. The dial has two subdials and a date window at the 6 o’clock position. The dial also features a pulsometer scale around the outer edge.

The watch is powered by the caliber ETA 2894-2. The movement has a power reserve of 42 hours and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

The strap of the Pulsometer Limited Edition is made from black leather with a stainless-steel buckle. The Pulsometer Limited Edition is a numbered limited edition of only 1,942 pieces, which makes it a highly collectible timepiece. 

Price: $794 

16. BOLDR FIELD MEDIC II

This is a COVID-19-inspired timepiece designed to celebrate the healthcare community at the frontlines of the pandemic. 

The case is made of titanium, and the size is 38mm. The “panda dial” is white with two black sundials. The indices are black, the hour and minute hands are gray, and the seconds hand is red, as are the subdial hands. The entire dial is luminous in the dark.  

The timepiece is powered by the VK64 Mecha-Quartz movement by Seiko and features a date window at the 6 o’clock position and a pulsometer. The watch is paired with a nylon NATO strap. 

Price: $299

17. NERO SABBIA 1072-A

Nero Sabbia is a Swiss watch brand that specializes in creating luxury timepieces that are both elegant and unique. The brand was founded in 2016 by a group of passionate watchmakers who wanted to create watches that combined traditional Swiss craftsmanship with modern design elements.

The name “Nero Sabbia” translates to “black sand” in Italian and reflects the brand’s philosophy of creating timeless and innovative timepieces. The brand’s watches are designed to be worn by both men and women and feature bold, distinctive designs that stand out from other luxury watch brands.

One of the defining features of Nero Sabbia watches is the use of unconventional materials in their construction. The brand uses materials such as ceramic, carbon fiber, and titanium to create watches that are both lightweight and durable.

The brand’s watches are also known for their distinctive case shapes, which range from sleek and minimalist to bold and angular. The case of this timepiece is made of 316L stainless steel and measures 38mm.

The striking sand colors of the roman numerals, subdial and outer pulsometer against the black dial give the timepiece a distinctive look. It features a Seiko VK64 Mecha-Quartz movement and is paired with a tanned Italian beige leather strap with a stainless-steel buckle. 

Price: $607

18. HAVEN CHILTON MK1

The Haven Watch Company was founded by Weston Cutter, an English professor, along with his father, Wes, a watchmaker, and his lifelong best friend, Steve Reidell, an art director. 

Founded on a love for luxury, well-made timepieces, and midwestern practicality, they birth a line of watches that seek to deliver the quality of the watchmaking elites, for a modest price. 

The MK1 offers a vintage, rugged, and colorful design. The case is made of 316L stainless steel with a titanium caseback. The silver dial features three subdials and a pulsometer. 

The timepiece is powered by an automatic Sellita SW510 M b movement with a power reserve of 50 hours. The bracelet is stainless steel with a handmade clasp. 

Price: $1,799 

19. ZEPPELIN LZ126 LOS ANGELES 8644-1

This is a stylish and sophisticated men’s timepiece that pays homage to the era of airships and aviation. The watch features a classic design that blends vintage elements with modern technology, making it a unique and eye-catching timepiece.

The watch has a stainless-steel case with a diameter of 42mm. The case is polished to a high shine and features a sleek, minimalist design that is both elegant and understated. The case is also water-resistant up to 50 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

The dial of the watch is white with contrasting black indices and hands. The timepiece features a date window at the 12 o’clock position, a second time zone subdial at the 6 o’clock position, and a pulsometer. 

The watch is powered by a Swiss quartz Ronda 6203.B movement. The black leather strap features contrasting white stitching. 

Price: $263

20. KOBOLD PULSOMETER CHRONOGRAPH WATCH KD 942161

This is a high-end timepiece designed for medical professionals and enthusiasts who value precision and accuracy in their work. The watch has a stainless-steel case with a diameter of 39.5mm.

The case is brushed to a satin finish, giving it a sleek and understated look. The case is also water resistant up to 100 meters. The dial of the watch is blue (there’s also a copper dial version) with contrasting silver-gray hour markers and hands.

There’s a date window at the 9 o’clock position and a subdial at the 3 o’clock position. The bezel is brushed steel. The watch is thick and sits high on the wrist. There’s a pulsometer scale on the outer edge of the dial.

Conclusion

Timepieces with pulsometers have a rich history and serve a specific purpose – measuring heart rate. From their practical uses in sports and medicine to their aesthetic appeal, these watches are a testament to the ingenuity and creativity of watchmakers. Whether for function or fashion, a pulsometer watch is a unique and valuable timepiece.

Watches can come in a wonderful kaleidoscope of different colors. Picture this: an endless sea of magnificent blues, intense reds, vibrant greens, brilliant yellows, and more. However, for those interested in stepping away from these colors and choosing a warmer, earthy hue, brown is the name of the game. 

Brown is the color of chocolate and coffee, a match truly made in heaven. Imagine the enticing smell of freshly baked, gooey chocolate chip cookies from the oven with a steaming cup of espresso. Dream about fluffy cinnamon buns, or experience the rugged, earthy smells of the wooded forest. 

Brown watches are not really the first thing that comes to mind when picking out another watch to add to the collection. You can never go wrong with a classic black or blue dial. However, brown watches are on the rise, and it’s becoming increasingly common to see brands offering their pieces with sun-kissed brown dials. Pour yourself a cup of your favorite hot chocolate as we learn more about brown dial watches and the joy they can bring.

About Brown Dial Watches

The history of brown dial watches starts way back with vintage sports watches. Think of beloved brands like Rolex and Omega. As the years passed and watches were exposed to sunlight, the dials started discoloring. The chemical reaction between the sunlight and dial eventually resulted in what we call a “tropical dial.”

Presumably named for the tropics, where sunlight is abundant, these chocolate-colored dials are now highly prized by enthusiasts and collectors alike. The attractive patina on the watch greatly increases its value and adds a sprinkle of uniqueness. 

Many watches nowadays will try to evoke memories of these charming timepieces with carefully painted dials and vintage-inspired looks. Indeed, brown dials are becoming more and more desirable, as we will see with the luxurious list of offerings that we will see below! 

Should You Buy a Brown Dial Watch?

Brown dial watches will always have a special place in the collection, so the answer is yes, most definitely! Brown is a great contrast to the usual black and blues in the watch box. This color will be a surefire match for anyone looking to add a bit of excitement to their watch rotation. 

Brown is subtle enough to match almost any outfit and bold enough to generate some interest. Whether in a formal office setting or taking a dip by the pool, brown dials just work. Of course, brown is at home when the world is transitioning into autumn.

Brown just seems to fit in when everyone is scrambling to find the perfect Halloween costume, sipping on pumpkin spice lattes, and watching the leaves change color. This versatile color can accompany you in any situation. Luckily, we’ve assembled a sublime list to help you choose your next brown dial watch.

The Best Brown Dial Watches

Vacheron Constantin Overseas (ref. 4500V/110A-B146)

Vacheron Constantin is one of the most premium watchmakers on the planet. Their very name drips with grace and exclusivity. Being able to hold and handle one of these astounding timepieces is a privilege and experience. Vacheron Constantin brought the Overseas collection back in 2016, and every year they have added more and more amazing watches to it.

The Overseas models are designed to be the perfect daily companion. One of the most convenient features of this watch is the interchangeable bracelet and strap system. This innovation makes it extremely easy to customize the look and feel of the watch. The layout is immaculate and features an ever-useful date window at the 3 o’clock position.

Every feature of this watch is finished with extreme attention to detail. The hour markers shine like mirrors and are razor cut to perfection. Turning over the Overseas immediately reveals the golden rotor, with sharp points radiating from the middle like sun rays. Behind the rotor is the in-house caliber 5100, beating away at 28,800vph and offering 60 hours of power reserve. 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R

First came Vacheron Constantin, and now comes Patek Philippe. Together, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin form the “Big Three” or “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking. These heavyweights represent the absolute best that watchmaking has to offer. They are the quintessential watchmakers that every brand should look to for inspiration.

This brown Aquanaut is just one of the many luxurious timepieces that come from these brands. The unique rounded octagon shape caused a huge stir in the watch world when it was released, and it still leaves current admirers breathless. Golden, applied hour markers dot the edge of the watch, and a mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand makes its rotation around the watch.

The Aquanaut series bracelet can be swapped for numerous attractive options as well. Underneath the dial exposes the self-winding caliber 26‑330 S C, a true marvel in design and function. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (ref. 26470ST.OO.A820CR.01)

The last of the “Big Three,” Audemars Piguet, lives up to its name with this offering from the popular Royal Oak collection. The 1972 release of the first watches in this collection changed how modern watches would be designed. They were sleek, exciting, and an absolute sensation. This Royal Oak has many of the features that buyers have come to expect: incredible quality, luxury status, and otherworldly levels of detail. 

This is undoubtedly a large 42mm watch with large pushers and a unique case shape. The signature octagonal bezel is lined with perfectly placed screws, creating a very pleasing continuity. This particular model comes on a gorgeous alligator strap that matches the deep brown of the dial.

Audemars Piguet describes the dial as “Mega Tapisserie,” with a waffle pattern that’s as delicious as it looks. Underneath this sweet treat is the caliber 3126/3840 self-winding movement, with 50 hours of power reserve. 

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (ref. 215.62.40.20.13.001)

The first of 3 Omega watches on this list is the 39.55mm Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean in a velvety hazel color. The Planet Ocean series represents Omega’s unique history with ocean-inspired watches. 

Every element of this watch blends together in a wonderful harmony. The hazel dial is a backdrop for the golden hands and white hour markers. The equally dark bezel contrasts with the gold lettering and pushers. Even the ceramic case is brown. This watch is simply a masterclass in pleasing design elements. 

Omega’s famed co-axial escapement makes its appearance in this watch as well. With this innovation, mechanical accuracy is increased even further. The Omega caliber 8800 automatic movement powers this chocolate delight. Resistant to magnetism, finished expertly, and a certified chronometer; this movement can do it all. 

Grand Seiko SBGR311

Grand Seiko is the Japanese answer to the luxury Swiss watchmaking industry. Since its inception, Grand Seiko has made revolutionary strides in watchmaking, such as with the invention of the spring drive movement. Known for absolutely breathtaking designs, Grand Seiko has created one of its most amazing pieces yet with the SBGR311. 

What immediately catches the eye is the swirling explosion of shapes on the dial. Every single shape is detailed with small lettering inside. This whirlpool of chocolate is simply hypnotic to look at. I could get lost in the dial and feel an inexplicable urge to satisfy my sweet tooth. 

Inside this delicious morsel is the caliber 9S65 automatic movement, which is lightweight and extremely accurate. Zaratsu polishing makes every aspect of this watch shine with a mirror finish. A sapphire caseback shows both the movement and the Grand Seiko lion logo, roaring with life. This watch is simply divine.

Rolex Day-Date 40 Chocolate Dial (ref. 228235)

To many people, Rolex will always be the ultimate luxury brand. Rolex is always in huge demand, and any new release by them is immediately snatched up by the hungry masses. This attractive colorway of the famous Day-Date model instantly demands attention with its absolutely beautiful and warm hues. 

The exclusive Rolex Everose case glows in the light and perfectly contrasts the rich dial. The fluted bezel is a signature Rolex detail, as is the cyclops magnifier at the 3 o’clock position. At 40mm, this watch is larger than more traditional Day-Date models, but nearly any wrist can accommodate this piece. And with the extraordinary “President” bracelet wrapped around the wrist, any lucky wearer will find themselves with a truly magnificent watch. 

Glashütte Original Sixties Brown (ref. 39-52-10-02-01)

One look at this German watch makes you want to steal another look. You’ll get lost in the unique and elaborate imprinted dial and want more. Glashütte Original will be able to satisfy your desire for more with a watch that pays tribute to the 1960s. The soft, rounded case is extremely comfortable to wear. The 39mm case is reserved and appropriate for any wrist.

Inside the polished steel case is the caliber 39-52. The numbers on the dial look like carefully etched Arabic numerals, something not seen in other watches. This watch is strictly time-only, with no other complication in sight. The symmetry and visual appeal are unmatched with Glashütte Original’s stunning timepiece. 

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date Desert Edition (ref. 5052 1146 E52A)

Blancpain is the oldest watch brand that still exists to this day. Throughout the centuries, Blancpain has perfected the art of watchmaking and truly takes it to another level. The Fifty Fathoms line is Blancpain’s signature dive watch collection, started in the golden age of diving and marine exploration in the early 1950s. 

This limited edition model in the Fifty Fathoms line is fascinating and complicated. The desert colorway is light and attractive. The dial gleams in the light and sweeps away like sand in the wind. A khaki-colored strap matches the sandy dial. A 43mm case houses the caliber 1315DD, with an enormous 120 power reserve. With so much power on the wrist, this watch is as hardy as the desert sun. 

Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385

Zenith reaches its highest point with the Chronomaster Revival A385. This model breathes life into classic models of Zenith’s past. As a modern interpretation of the original A385 from 1969, this revival has much to live up to. With numerous modern upgrades, like the ladder-style bracelet and refined movement, this watch takes the old and catapults it into the future.

Zenith is known for making avant-garde movements and housed inside the chunky 37mm tonneau-shaped case is the legendary El Primero automatic movement. Zenith prominently displays the movement’s specifications on its website, and for good reason. This movement is revered in the watchmaking industry for its gorgeous finishing, unrivaled accuracy, and innovative design. The movement works at 36,000vph and offers a 50-hour power reserve. 

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Brown Dial (ref. 311.32.42.30.13.001)

The Moonwatch is one of the most beloved in the watch industry. Its story has been told countless times and will forever be tied to Omega’s legendary association with space and the galaxy. An Omega Speedmaster can truly do it all and is a serious contender for a one-watch-only collection. 

The famous Speedmaster DNA that everyone is familiar with is in this brown dial version. The symmetrical dial, lume pips at 12 o’clock, tachymeter scale, and large pushers are all here. A matching brown leather strap comes with this watch, but Speedmasters are well-known for being able to look good on almost anything.

At 42mm, the watch is large but sits very comfortably on the wrist thanks to the watch’s soft contours. Like other iconic Speedmasters, the famous Omega caliber 1863 powers this watch. It is visible behind the transparent sapphire caseback. 

Oris Aquis Date Brown Dial (ref. 01 733 7730 4152-07 5 24 12EB)

As one of the few privately owned watch companies, Oris maintains a unique position in the market. Instead of answering to a larger authority regarding their designs and decision-making, they answer solely to themselves. The Aquis is a series of no-nonsense dive watches that offer impeccable performance and brilliant design. 

This mono-brown variant of these serious divers is large, bold, and entirely functional. Generous lume, the large 43.5mm case size, and the long stick hour markers make viewing this watch under the water a breeze. The rotating dive bezel is crisp, satisfying, and locks into place. A gorgeous chocolate-colored strap matches the mono-brown dial. Finally, the Oris 733 automatic movement is found in this beauty and many other watches in Oris’s lineup. 

Longines Legend Diver (ref. L3.774.4.60.2)

Relive an era of legendary watchmaking with this heritage dive watch from the esteemed brand Longines. The extremely famous Longines logo, a winged hourglass, is stamped at the top of this Legend Diver. Any timepiece with the winged hourglass symbol is worthy of inclusion in the Longines lineup.

The Legend Diver is ruggedly handsome and retains the original super compressor design. This is evident by the two prominent pushers on the side of the case, which control the inner rotating bezel. This mechanism also increases the water resistance of this dive watch.

This is an exciting feature that sets this watch apart from others. This big, 42mm daring watch is powered by the Longines exclusive L888 automatic movement. A large 72-hour power reserve means this diving legend will be running for long periods. 

Seiko Presage SRPF43

I stick by the adage that every collection needs a Seiko. Seiko has such a huge variety of pieces in its collection that it’s hard to find something that someone won’t like. The Presage line from Seiko combines Japanese artistry and cutting-edge mechanical capabilities. This model is one of the many “Cocktail Time” watches, taking inspiration from various drinks in Japan. These affordable, classy dress watches are undoubtedly worth taking a closer look.

This dial is actually inspired by a specially roasted tea named Hojicha. Compared to other teas, this tea produces a light golden color when roasted. This is reflected on the dressy dial, which is a rich brown and yellow gradient. This 38.5mm watch is handsome enough to fit any casual or formal situation. On the caseback is an engraving with the serial number of this limited edition collection.

The entry-level Seiko 4R35 automatic movement powers the watch, generating 41 hours of power reserve when fully wound or “roasted.” Indeed, looking at the toasty brown dial, I can only think of wanting to take a sip! 

Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition (ref. 128669)

Montblanc has made quite a name for itself in recent years. The renowned pen company has taken serious steps to make it a contender in the often cutthroat luxury watch market. Montblanc’s integration with Minerva, a highly respected watch movement manufacturer, cemented Montblanc’s future as a brand that makes more than just pens.

This stunning perpetual calendar is one of the best examples of this new direction. This limited edition version of the Heritage Perpetual Calendar could easily be double its asking price. Perpetual calendars are the pinnacle of fine watchmaking, requiring immense care and careful attention to detail to assemble.

This heritage model echoes earlier Minerva model watches. This elegant, 40mm perpetual calendar features a gorgeous caramel-colored dial and displays an encyclopedia of knowledge on its many subdials. Housed inside the 18K pink gold case is the caliber MB 29.22, beating away at 28.800vph and offering a 48-hour power reserve.

This dedicated perpetual calendar module can be viewed through the sapphire caseback, treating the eyes with a beautifully applied Côtes de Genève pattern. The snow-capped Mont Blanc mountain is displayed proudly at the top of the watch, a sign of Montblanc’s dedication to quality. 

H. Moser & Cie Venturer Big Date (ref. 2100-0402)

Exclusivity is the name of the game for H. Moser & Cie. Produced in very limited quantities, each mechanical marvel from the workshops of H. Moser & Cie is lovingly handcrafted and painstakingly examined for quality. This Venturer model is a 50-piece limited edition production from a brand that already makes very few watches a year anyway, which gives away just how special this watch is. 

This timepiece is an appropriate 41.5mm in case size, and it seems even bigger with the watch’s design choices. The elegant H. Moser & Cie logo is spelled out in cursive at the top of the dial, but the most exciting elements of the watch are the big date window and the large cutout for the seconds at the 6 o’clock position. 

These huge features make the watch extremely bold to look at and highly legible. Flipping the piece on its back reveals a stunning manual-winding movement from H. Moser & Cie, with an enormous 7-day power reserve and small power reserve complication. 

Omega Constellation Brown Dial (ref. 123.10.38.21.10.001)

Of the many offerings in the vast Omega catalog, the Constellation series is among the most beautiful. The Constellation series gets its name from the gorgeous, deep engraving of an observatory on the caseback viewing the stars. This almost romantic imagery invokes a sense of wonder and discovery.

Indeed, this copper-brown Omega Constellation is a wonder to behold. The sharply finished hour markers and hands reflect like the stars in the night sky. At the 6 o’clock position is a silver star that provides a wonderful point of dial symmetry. 

The 38mm watch wears small due to its case shape and perfectly slips under any cuff. The craftsmanship is top-notch, and this dressy piece, in particular, is on an adjustable steel bracelet. Instead of the classic observatory engraving on the back, a sapphire crystal caseback shows off the Omega Co-Axial caliber 8500 in all of its glory. 

Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4356-07 5 20 45)

The Divers Sixty-Five line is like taking a time machine back to the retro days of Beatlemania and bell-bottom jeans. This watch takes various elements of vintage styles from this era and blends them together like a smoothie. The burnt orange and brown dial is reminiscent of a swirling cup of coffee.

Attractive round hour markers dot the outer edges of the dial. The 40mm dial is larger than you might find in a vintage diver, but this modern fit looks great on any wrist. The Divers Sixty-Five is slim thanks to its wonderful tapering and doesn’t sit tall on the wrist.

At the heart of this vintage blend is the Oris 733 movement, based on the workhorse Sellita SW200-1. Finally, with 100 meters of water resistance, this watch will be more than capable of surviving nearly any aquatic situation.  

Breitling Transocean Chronograph 38 (ref. U4131012/Q600-725P) 

Breitling is known for being big and bold, but this Transocean Chronograph shows that Breitling can tap into its reserved side and offer something truly special. The Transocean series was recently revived by Breitling and is now one of their premier watch lines.

The name takes its inspiration from the golden days of aviation when advancements in aviation technology made flying across the ocean possible. It’s easy to see the pilot influences on this watch. The watch is very functional, with a chronograph, tachymeter, and a host of other features that appeal to the pilot in all of us.

The 38mm case size seems conservative for Breitling’s standards, but this makes it that much easier to wear on the wrist. It sits tall and demands presence. The pleasing golden bezel contrasts the dark brown dial and leather strap. The Transocean is back and better than ever, it seems.

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto (ref. H38735501)

Hamilton, the Swiss brand that combines masculine, All-American designs with precision Swiss engineering, offers this mesmerizing timepiece from their American Classic collection. The smoky brown dial of this vintage-inspired watch brings to mind an old-world type of cool. The radiant dial smoothly transitions to a light brown in the center.

Simple stick hour markers and hands clearly display the time. The date complication has its own golden window at the 6 o’clock position, giving some visual interest to the piece. Despite the vintage inspirations, this is definitely a modern timepiece. The sizable 42mm case size makes it stand out on the wrist. The lug width is also quite wide, at 22mm.

The movement is also created to modern standards. The powerful ETA 2892-A2 beats away inside the case and offers a respectable 42 hours of power reserve. Hamilton’s history is as rich as the smoky chocolate dial on this watch’s blend of vintage and modern. 

Farer Eldridge Chronograph

Among the titans in watchmaking on this list, like Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe, it would be hard for a newer brand like Farer to stand out. Founded in 2015, Farer is the newest watch brand on the list. This means they are up against stiff competition with much richer and more celebrated stories than them.

However, Farer’s Eldridge Chronograph can certainly appeal to many people with its bold flashes of color and symmetrical design. Farer forgoes many traditional watchmaking designs and creates its own unique pieces. Browsing their catalog reveals unique tropical colors, chunky hour markers, fun designs, and more.

This 39mm Eldridge Chronograph combines chocolate brown and turquoise blue. The blue chronograph hand is a stark contrast to the brown dial. Inside the watch is the reliable ETA 2894-2 movement, a sign of quality and care. 

One of the most delightful features of this design is the expertly placed date window. Rather than sacrifice symmetry by setting the date window at somewhere like the 3 o’clock position, it is at the 6 o’clock position instead. This small but appreciated change is just one of many details on this fine watch. 

Conclusion

Brown dial watches are certainly an interesting piece to add to the collection. The roasted coffee color is warm and inviting. They add an element of interest to a collection and will stand out on any wrist. Even the most exclusive brands are starting to see why brown is the color that is trending at the moment. Admire the wonderful pieces we have assembled for you today, and grab a bite of chocolate as well! 

 

Over the past few years, a new trend has emerged in the world of luxury watches – the rising popularity of salmon dial watches. Once considered a niche choice, salmon dials have now become a must-have feature for many luxury watch brands.

This trend is particularly visible in vintage-inspired models, where salmon dials are becoming increasingly common and are often considered a hallmark of high-end luxury timepieces. Salmon dials are characterized by their warm, pinkish-orange hue.

They are often created through a complex process of layering different colors and finishes on a silver base, giving them their unique, multi-dimensional appearance. In addition to their distinctive color, salmon dials are also prized for their ability to change appearance in different lighting conditions, from a soft, muted shade to a bright and vibrant hue.

Historical Review of the Salmon Dial

Salmon dial watches first appeared in the 1920s and 1930s, but it was not until the 1940s and 1950s that they gained widespread popularity. During this time, salmon dials were a standard feature on high-end dress watches and were often paired with gold or rose gold cases.

However, they gradually fell out of favor in the following decades as other styles of dials became more popular. Crafting a salmon dial is a complex process requiring high skill and attention to detail. The dials are typically made from a base of silver that is coated with several layers of color and finish to create the final salmon hue.

The exact process can vary depending on the brand and model, but it often involves a combination of electroplating, painting, and heat treatment. The result is a dial that has a rich, multi-dimensional appearance.

Should You Buy a Salmon Dial Watch?

The decision to purchase a salmon dial watch ultimately depends on personal preference and style. While salmon dials are currently a popular trend in the world of luxury watches, there may be better choices for some.

In terms of style, salmon dials can work well with a variety of outfits and occasions. Their distinctive color can add a touch of personality and character to an otherwise simple or classic watch design. However, it’s worth considering whether a salmon dial will complement your existing wardrobe and personal style.

A salmon dial may clash or draw too much attention if your wardrobe is mostly composed of muted or monochromatic colors. Similarly, there is no specific season or work environment where a salmon dial is more appropriate.

They can be worn year-round and in various settings, including formal occasions, the workplace, and casual settings. However, it’s worth noting that a salmon dial’s warm, orange-pink tone may be better suited to spring and summer when lighter and brighter colors are more prevalent.

The Top 20 Salmon Dial Watches

1. PATEK PHILIPPE PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH 41MM 5270P-001

The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a unique and beautiful timepiece. The 41mm platinum case has a thickness of 12.4mm and is complemented by the distinctive salmon dial, which sets this version apart from the classic silver-tone dial.

The dial features applied hour markers and multiple sub-dials to display the perpetual calendar information, including the day, date, month, and moon phase. The chronograph function is displayed through a sub-dial, allowing the wearer to accurately measure elapsed time.

The watch is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement, caliber CH 29-535 PS, which has a power reserve of up to 65 hours and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The salmon dial, combined with the platinum case, creates a warm and inviting, elegant, and modern aesthetic.

The watch is finished with a black alligator strap and a fold-over clasp, making it the perfect choice for the discerning collector who desires a unique and stylish timepiece. 

Price: $211,720

2. AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK JUMBO 39MM 15202BC.OO.1240BC.01

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo with a salmon dial is a magnificent timepiece that embodies luxury and precision. The watch features a 39mm 18-carat white gold case with a thickness of 8.1mm and is housed by the iconic octagonal bezel, secured by eight hexagonal screws. 

The white gold hands and markers against the pink gold-toned dial add a touch of cordial and classic. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 2121 movement, which has a power reserve of up to 40 hours. The timepiece is finished with a matching 18-carat white gold bracelet and a fold-over clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist. 

Price: $213,215

3.  ROLEX AIR-KING 34MM 114200

The Rolex Air-King is simply timeless. The watch features a 34mm stainless steel case and a simple yet elegant salmon dial, accented by applied hour markers and hands in white gold. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 3130 movement, which has a power reserve of up to 48 hours and is protected by a durable Oyster case, making it suitable for everyday wear. 

The watch is finished with a stainless-steel bracelet and a fold-over clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist. The Rolex Air-King is an excellent entry-level Rolex. Still, the salmon dial’s uniqueness and recent resurgent popularity set this version apart from the classic models, making it a standout choice for the discerning collector. 

Price: $4,450

4. BREITLING PREMIER B25 DATORA 42MM AB2510201K1P1

Breitling is mostly known for their dependability and the pilot functions of their tool watches, but they aren’t always considered trendsetters in the design space, at least in recent decades. This watch might just change that. The B25 Datora is timepiece artwork at its best. The watch is encased in stainless steel with a salmon dial. 

The three subdials are all subtly sunken, and the day and date are set back from the main dial. The moon phase calendar is simply majestic. All the details, from the spacing of the text to the syringe hands, exude class. You could be forgiven for mistaking this timepiece for a Patek Phillippe. It’s that lovely. 

In typical Breitling fashion, this watch is big, bringing you back down to earth a bit. The case size is 42mm in diameter. It’s 15mm thick and sits high on the wrist. However, if you’re used to Patek pricing, the cost of this timepiece will put a smile back on your face.

The caliber B25 movement offers a 48-hour power reserve and includes the features of time, chronograph, calendar, and moon graph. All this is paired with a brown alligator leather strap. 

Price: $13,500

5. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 31MM 77080

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31mm 77080, with the salmon dial, is a highly sophisticated and elegant timepiece. The watch is powered by a self-winding automatic and is water resistant up to 100 meters, which means it is suitable for swimming and snorkeling but not deep-sea diving. The watch is encased in stainless steel, and the case size is 31mm. It features a salmon-colored dial with silver-tone hands and indexes.

The Rolex 77080 features a stainless-steel Oyster bracelet with an Oysterclasp, which provides a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet also features an Easylink comfort extension link that allows you to adjust the size of the bracelet without the need for tools, making it easy to get the perfect fit.

Price: $2,300

6. BREGUET TYPE XX-XXI-XXII 39MM 3820

The Breguet Type XX-XXI-XXII Transatlantique is a sophisticated and elegant timepiece designed and crafted by the luxury Swiss watchmaker Breguet. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a rotating bezel and a salmon-colored dial, which gives the watch a unique and stylish look.

The watch is powered by the caliber 582, based on a Lemania 1350. It features a flyback chronograph function, allowing the wearer to time multiple events without the need to stop and reset the chronograph.

The Breguet Type XX-XXI-XXII Transatlantiquel also has a date display at the 6 o’clock position and is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The watch comes with a brown leather strap and a steel folding clasp, providing a secure and comfortable fit.

Price: $16,545

7. ROLEX DATEJUST SALMON ROMAN DIAL 36MM 16220

The salmon color dial with roman numeral hour markers adds a touch of uniqueness and sophistication to the watch, making it stand out from other models in the Datejust line. The dial also features a date display at the 3 o’clock position with a cyclops lens, which magnifies the date for easy reading.

The DateJust 16220 features a 36mm stainless steel case with a smooth bezel, which gives it a sleek and elegant appearance.

The 1315 automatic in-house movement features a 42-hour power reserve. As is standard on most Rolex’s, the timepiece includes a waterproof screw-down crown and is water resistant up to 100 meters.

The watch comes with a stainless-steel Jubilee bracelet with a folding clasp, which provides a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet features a polished center link and brushed outer links, which gives it a sophisticated and refined look.

Price: $3,200

8. A. LANGE & SÖHNE DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON 41.5MM 740.056

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is a highly sophisticated and elegant timepiece designed by the renowned German watchmaker. The watch features a platinum case and a stunning salmon-colored dial.

The dial features a combination of Arabic numerals, baton-style hour markers, and luminescent hands. It also has subdials for the chronograph function, perpetual calendar, and moon phase indicator, which displays the current phase of the moon.

The perpetual calendar is accurate until 2100 and includes day, date, month, leap year, and day/night indicators. The case size is 41.55mm. The watch is powered by a highly complex and accurate movement, the caliber L952.2, which features a tourbillon and a flyback chronograph function.

The tourbillon is visible through the sapphire crystal case back and serves to improve the accuracy of the watch by compensating for the effects of gravity on the movement. The Perpetual Tourbillon is a limited-edition timepiece, with only 100 pieces produced worldwide.

The watch comes with a dark brown alligator leather strap with a platinum deployant buckle, providing a secure and comfortable fit. This timepiece is a masterpiece of watchmaking and is a highly desirable and sought-after timepiece, perfect for collectors and watch enthusiasts who appreciate the finest in horological craftsmanship.

Price: $278,800

9. PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL CALENDAR 39MM 5450P-001

The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar is a stunning and sophisticated timepiece. This watch is housed in a platinum case, measuring 39mm in diameter, and features a beautiful salmon-colored dial that adds a touch of elegance to the overall design.

The watch features a perpetual calendar complication that displays the day, date, and month and requires adjustment only once a year in February. It also has a moon phase display that shows the current phase of the moon. The dial features applied white gold hour markers and dauphine-style hands.

This model is powered by an automatic movement, the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303, which is one of Patek Philippe’s most accurate and reliable movements. The movement has a power reserve of approximately 45 hours and features a 21k gold rotor that provides efficient winding.

The watch also features a sapphire crystal case back, which allows the wearer to admire the exquisite finishing of the movement. The platinum case is water-resistant up to 30 meters, providing ample protection from the elements.

Price: $81,250

10. GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL PANOMATICLUNAR 40MM 1-90-02-12-32-30

The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar offers a unique and elegant design. The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case and a salmon-colored dial that gives it a distinctive and eye-catching appearance.

The dial features a classic Panorama Date display, along with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a moon phase display at 2 o’clock. The moon phase display is particularly impressive, featuring a beautiful golden moon and stars set against a deep blue background, adding an element of romance and mystery to the design.

The watch is powered by a caliber 90-02 automatic movement visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The movement features a 42-hour power reserve and is beautifully decorated with Glashütte Original’s signature three-quarter plate, a swan-neck regulator, and a hand-engraved balance cock.

The dial is completed with a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap, which complements the color scheme of the watch perfectly. The strap is secured with a stainless-steel folding clasp, providing a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist.

Price: $10,409 (Priced at the exchange rate at the time of this article.

11. MONTBLANC HERITAGE 40MM MB119944

The case of the Montblanc Heritage measures 40mm in diameter and is made from stainless steel. The case is both polished and brushed, giving it a refined and modern look. The watch’s bezel is also made from stainless steel and is fixed.

The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, the MB 24.27, with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The sophisticated salmon dial of the Montblanc Heritage is adorned with anthracite-colored Arabic numerals markers and luminous hands. 

Price: $2,435

12. NOMOS GLASHÜTTE TANGENTE RED DOT 164.S10

This limited-edition watch is a celebration of the Red Dot Design Award that NOMOS won in 2018, and it is sure to turn heads with its unique salmon dial.

The case of the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Red Dot 2018 measures 37.5mm in diameter and is made from stainless steel. The case is polished to a high shine, giving it a luxurious appearance. 

The watch is powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement, the NOMOS Alpha. The movement is visible through the exhibition case back and features a Glashütte three-quarter plate and blued screws, adding to the watch’s elegant and sophisticated aesthetic.

The salmon dial of the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Red Dot is the star of the show, with its vibrant color and clean, minimalist design. The dial features silver-tone hour markers and hands, which are slim and elegant, providing excellent visibility even in low-light conditions.

The dial includes a small seconds sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position, adding a practical element to the watch.

This model is finished with a brown Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather strap, which is both comfortable and stylish. The strap is secured with a stainless steel tang buckle, ensuring the watch stays securely on the wrist.

Price: $2,340

13. VARIO ECLIPSE SUNSTONE 38MM

The Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch is a unique and stylish timepiece combining classic design and modern flair. The watch features a 38mm stainless steel case polished to a high shine, providing a luxurious appearance. The case has a thickness of 7mm.

The standout feature of the Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch is its dial, and convex salmon color sunburst, which gives the watch a beautiful and distinctive appearance. The sunstone dial is a warm shade of orange and has a captivating shimmer, which changes depending on the angle of the light.

The dial is complemented by gold-tone hour markers and hands. The watch is powered by a Seiko VH31 mechaquartz movement. The Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch comes with a brown leather strap, which is both stylish and comfortable.

Price: $218

14. SINN 356 SA PILOT II 38.5MM 356072

The Sinn 356 case has a satin finish, which gives it a sleek and sophisticated appearance. It’s made from stainless steel and measures 38.5mm in diameter, which is ideal for both men and women. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters.

The dial of the Sinn 356 Sa Pilot II is a warm shade of salmon and features silver-tone hour markers and hands, which are coated with luminescent material. The dial also includes a day and date display at the 3 o’clock position, which adds to the watch’s practicality.

The watch is powered by the Swiss-made Sellita SW-300-1 automatic movement. The movement is visible through the exhibition case back, showcasing the watch’s intricate inner workings. Paired with a handsome brown leather strap or a stainless-steel bracelet. 

Price: $2,695

15.  ALPINA STARTIMER PILOT HERITAGE GMT 42MM AL-555RGS4H6

The Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT is handsomely styled with a retro ‘70s look and is paired perfectly with a salmon dial, which features an eye-catching metallic sheen. The case is made from stainless steel and measures 42mm in diameter, which is an ideal size for most men’s wrists. The case has a brushed and polished finish, which gives it a classy appearance.

The date is displayed at the 3 o’clock position. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The Alpina Startimer Pilot is powered by the Swiss-made AL-555 automatic movement. The watch is finished with a brown leather strap with contrasting white stitching. 

Price: $1,395

16. MONTBLANC HERITAGE PULSOGRAPH 40MM 119914

This timepiece has a charming, old-fashioned quality to the design. The Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph features a salmon dial with a sunburst finish. The hour markers and hands are black, which complements the warm tones of the salmon. The watch has a pulsometer function, which allows the wearer to measure their heart rate by counting the number of heartbeats in a set amount of time.

The pulsometer scale is printed in black on the outer edge of the dial and is used in conjunction with the chronograph function to measure the heart rate. The case of the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40mm.

The case has a polished finish and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch is powered by the Montblanc Caliber MB M13.21, a hand-wound movement that has a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The watch is completed with a black leather strap with a stainless-steel buckle. 

Price: $30,700

17. CARTIER BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER 33MM WSBB0046

Cartier is a French luxury goods brand founded in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier. While the company initially focused on jewelry and other luxury items, it was in the early 20th century that Cartier began producing watches.

Since then, Cartier has become one of the world’s most iconic watch brands, known for its distinctive designs, high-quality craftsmanship, and technical innovations. This timepiece is classy and distinctive.

The salmon dial with its soft circular pattern, silver roman numerals, sharp blue hands with black lettering, and its highly polished case and fluted crown is a fine work of art. 

The case size is 33mm, and the thickness is 10.16 mm. It features an automatic movement and is paired with a brushed stainless steel bracelet. 

Price: $5,850

18. NOMOS GLASHÜTTE TETRA DIVINE SPARK 444 29.5MM

The rectangular, salmon dial of the Tetra Divine Spark has a beautiful sunburst finish, which gives it a subtle shimmer in different lighting conditions. The dial is also adorned with a small seconds sub-dial, positioned at the 6 o’clock position. The sub-dial is framed by a polished steel ring, adding elegance to the overall design.

The case of the Tetra Divine Spark is made of polished stainless steel and measures 29.5mm x 29.5mm. The watch has sapphire crystal glass curved on both sides, giving it a unique and distinctive look. The Tetra Divine Spark is powered by the NOMOS Alpha movement, a highly regarded and precise manual-wind movement that has a power reserve of up to 43 hours.

The movement is handcrafted in-house by NOMOS Glashütte, a German watchmaker that is known for its dedication to quality and precision. The timepiece is paired with a velour gray leather strap with a pin buckle. 

Price: $2,320

19. MONTBLANC HERITAGE GMT 40MM MB119950

The Montblanc Heritage GMT is a beautiful timepiece that features a unique salmon dial. The watch is part of the Montblanc Heritage collection, known for its vintage-inspired design elements and high-quality craftsmanship.

The salmon dial is characterized by its sunburst finish. The dial is also adorned with a polished domed dial with applied Arabic numerals, dots as indexes, and a domed sapphire crystal.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 40mm in diameter. The case has a polished finish and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch also features a bi-directional rotating bezel that is engraved with a 24-hour scale, allowing the wearer to easily track a second time zone.

The timepiece is powered by the Montblanc caliber MB 24.05, an automatic movement that has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. 

Price: $3,006

20. FEARS BRUNSWICK SALMON DIAL 38MM (Individually numbered)

Fears is a British watch brand that was established in 1903 by a watchmaker named Aaron Lufkin Dennison. The brand was originally called “Dennison Watch Case Company” and was primarily known for producing high-quality watch cases.

In the 1920s, the company began producing complete watches under the Fears brand name. The timepieces were known for their precision and durability and were popular among military and professional users.

The brand became especially famous for its military watches, which were used by the British military during World War II. The Brunswick’s copper salmon dial is a nod to vintage designs from the ‘40s and ‘50s and was created with 18c gold and copper and finished with a brushed look.

The skeletonized hands look blue in some lights and black in others. There’s also a sunken sub-seconds dial at the 6 o’clock position. The timepiece is encased in 316L steel, and the case size is 38mm. It’s powered by an ETA 7001 automatic movement.

Price: $3,000

PARTING THOUGHTS

Luxury salmon dial watches have become a popular trend in the world of luxury watches thanks to their distinctive and unique appearance. The warm and inviting tone of a salmon dial is a refreshing change from traditional black and white dials, making them a perfect addition to any watch enthusiast’s collection. The history and craftsmanship behind these watches are a testament to the dedication and attention to detail that goes into their creation. 

While the decision to purchase a salmon dial watch comes down to personal preference and style, these watches offer a level of character and distinction unmatched by other styles. As the popularity of these watches continues to rise, it’s clear that salmon dial watches are here to stay, making them an excellent investment for collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Of all the reasons to be enamored with the mechanical marvels on our wrists, one of the most enduring is the story! These stories come in many forms on a wristwatch, whether it is the historical provenance of a significant timepiece or just the history of the brand in general. 

I am an absolute sucker for watches that play into these stories and can offer that historical feel but in a fancy modern execution (Black Bay 58 is my current daily driver). As much as I love the look of these timepieces, I oftentimes struggle to build a real connection, and they find themselves on the chopping block. So what gives?

Turns out the stories a marketing department can tell are only part of the picture. When I am looking for a story, I am looking for more. I am looking for the story of the exact watch. Every scratch and ding helps to tell the story that gives these watches a unique history, one that you can’t just read about in a watch review. Sometimes you need to pick the watch up and let it speak to you.

When Is a Watch Considered Vintage?

It is true that even modern watches can pick up a history of their own, some faster than others depending on the clumsiness of the wearer. As scratched as they may be, these modern watches don’t carry the same level of charm as ones that we would consider vintage. For a watch to be considered vintage, I use the guideline of 40-70 years.

For some products, that may seem like an eternity, but considering the lifecycle of a properly maintained wristwatch, there is still plenty of tread left on the tire, even at this age. Ultimately, you want enough time to have passed for the trends to come back into fashion but not so much time that they seem completely antiquated.

Should You Buy a Vintage Watch?

With all the great modern options available to consumers, should you really purchase a vintage watch? Absolutely yes! There are 2 main reasons everyone should own at least one vintage watch throughout their collecting journey.

The first reason is financial. The world of vintage watches is some of the most fun you can have in this hobby for a relatively low amount of money. There are several brands that can be acquired in the vintage market that cost less than a replacement strap for a current example from the same brand.

The second and more sentimental reason comes back to history. Some things you just need to hold in your hand to appreciate, and watchmaking is a great example. To appreciate how perfectly machined your new Omega Aqua Terra is, you need to hold an Omega Seamaster from the early 1950s.

You can immediately notice the resemblance, but the glacial improvement in quality over 70 years has resulted in a product that doesn’t feel the same in hand. Both are incredible and offer the wearer a unique experience, but they are not the same.

Vintage Watch Buying Guide

Despite the unmatched coolness of a vintage watch, there are several reasons you should pump the brakes before immediately pulling the trigger. The world of vintage watches is filled with far more landmines than diamonds in the rough.

If you’re new to vintage watches, take a look at a previous article I wrote that references my 3 guidelines for purchasing a vintage watch. If you’re watching the deal of a lifetime auction count down and don’t have time to read that article, here are the cliff notes. Research is key! Pick a reference and learn everything you can about it!

The worst thing you can do is start learning about the reference once you have already made a purchase. Cheap does not equal good. Rarely is the lowest price you can find for a reference the best value. Don’t be afraid to pay tomorrow’s price today if the watch comes from a trustworthy seller or a better example. 

Finally, condition is everything. When it comes to vintage watches, the smallest variance in condition can swing the price by hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars. Be patient and get the best example of the watch you are looking for.

Those lessons took years to learn and seconds to read! Do yourself a favor and use them! Now that we have a feel for what a vintage watch is and what to look for when purchasing one, let’s take a look at 20 of the best vintage watches, from affordable to luxury. 

This list will be broken down into several price categories featuring examples for every budget. To keep things interesting, I have only included 1 example from each brand. Kick back, grab a coffee, and get your flux capacitor ready; we’re going back in time and exploring 20 of the best vintage watches you can buy!

Best Vintage Watches Under $1000

Hamilton Thin-O-Matic

Kicking off our list is one of two classic American watch companies on this list. From the early 1800s through the 1970s, Hamilton was one of the most prolific watchmakers producing timepieces on American soil. The 1960s would see them make several timeless designs, none more timeless than the Thin-O-Matic.

The Thin-O-Matic earned its name with its thin case design and automatic winding capability, both made possible by their adoption of the Micro-Rotor developed by Buren. These watches come in several varieties but are mostly available in 33-35mm cases made of stainless steel, gold filled, or 10K gold. 

The dials tend to lean toward a minimal design but share one detail that helps them stand apart. The “Thin-O-Matic” logo on these utilizes some of the best fonts I have seen on any watch dial. Depending on the style and condition, these watches will set you back anywhere from $300-$800. Given the brand history, movement technology, and timeless design, this price is an absolute bargain!

Ball Trainmaster

The second watchmaker on this list from the United States is none other than the Ball Watch Company. Founded by Webb C. Ball in 1891 after the famous Kipton railroad disaster, Ball initially specialized in very accurate pocket watches and later transitioned into wristwatches.

The most classic example of this transition comes in the form of the Ball Trainmaster. A white enamel dial with black Arabic numerals and red second hand became the distinct look of a Ball Official Railroad Trainmaster. What would change in these models, however, was the case shape and material. 

Despite being available in several case materials and shapes, the 34mm stainless steel with twisted lugs is my favorite of the bunch. Coming in at anywhere from $300-$800, these watches represent a tremendous value for a piece of American railroad and watchmaking history.

Longines Flagship

Before their acquisition by the now SWATCH group, Longines was a luxury watch brand often compared to the likes of Rolex and Omega. Despite their recent increase in popularity, they now comfortably occupy a position beneath both of these prestigious brands in the luxury hierarchy. 

Thankfully for us collectors, nobody told their vintage models that they are no longer the prestigious pieces they once were. Their vintage timepieces are every bit the luxury watch of a Rolex or Omega from the equivalent time period.

One example of their luxury vintage watches is the Longines Flagship. First introduced in 1957, the Longines Flagship shares a lot of DNA with other luxury watches of that time. The 33-35mm case size and simple dial with dauphine style hands could come to describe any multitude of brands producing watches during the late 1950s and early 1960s. 

The difference between these models is in the details. From the quality of the manual wind 30LS in-house movement to the impeccable finish on the sunray dial with complementing hands and markers, this watch exudes class and quality. 

If you are looking for a vintage timepiece that has the hallmarks of the more expensive luxury brands but comes in at around $500-$1000 instead of the $2000-$5000 mark, the Longines Flagship is a great place to start your search.

Vulcain Cricket

Few brands have been featured on the wrists of as many influential people as Vulcain. Their timepieces have been seen on the wrist of almost every American President since 1953, when the first Vulcain Cricket was gifted to President Harry Truman.

Since then, the tradition of receiving a Cricket watch as US President has become an honorary tradition, even resulting in the nickname of the Cricket as the “Presidents Watch”. What made the Vulcain Cricket so special? The alarm feature helped to set this watch apart from other timepieces of the day.

Featuring a 33mm case dimension and hand-winding caliber 120 movement from Vulcain, these watches didn’t necessarily look too different from their less complicated competition. My favorite feature of these iconic timepieces is that you don’t need to be a president or even get paid like one to have it occupy a space in your watch box. 

Coming in at a price of $500-$1000, these watches offer a great history and tremendous value in the vintage watch market.

Zodiac Seawolf

In 1953 the world of watches was absolutely flipped on its head. The Rolex Submariner was introduced to the masses, garnering mainstream appeal for a complication first seen on the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms a year previous. The dive bezel fundamentally changed the watch market. 

Although Rolex is synonymous with this feature, they weren’t the first to introduce it, nor were they the only manufacturer to introduce one in 1953. The Zodiac Seawolf was introduced alongside the Rolex Submariner in 1953 and offered something more compelling for your everyday underwater explorer.

Where original examples of the Rolex Submariner can cost as much as a new luxury vehicle, the early examples of the Zodiac Seawolf can be found for anywhere between $500-$1000, depending on the condition.

These watches were a little smaller, coming in at 35mm, and featured fiction fit brass coated bezels, but the functionality was much the same as the Rolex. If you are willing to compromise on the size and wait for a good example without a worn-out or refinished bezel, these watches deserve the same level of dive watch street cred as the almighty crown.

Best Vintage Watches Under $5000

Omega Constellation 168.005

Stepping up to the under $5000 price mark, you start to see an increase in brand equity. In terms of mainstream luxury watch brands, few carry as much cache as Omega. They have a history of producing some of the most iconic timepieces and have great vintage pieces that could fall under any of the price categories available on this list.

At the crossroads of quality and price is the Omega Constellation, specifically with the “pie pan” dial and “dog leg” lugs (you’ve got to love the ways us watch enthusiasts find to describe a timepiece). The Omega Constellation is a line of watches produced by Omega beginning in 1952 and is still in production, albeit with a completely different design.

These watches were the premium offering from Omega during their initial run and have come to represent the very best in terms of construction and precision from Omega in their heyday. The reference number 168.005 was prevalent in the 1960s and, in my opinion, utilizes the very best design elements from this product line’s illustrious history.

The angular facets on the “pie pan” dial help to give this watch dimension and personality. The “dog leg” lug design compliments the angular dial while offering a more visually interesting appearance than a straight lug design. 

Coming in at a price of $1500-$3500, these watches are a considerable price increase from the similarly designed Seamaster but given their design and chronometer-grade movements are well worth the extra investment.

Breitling Navitimer 806

Another luxury brand that has managed to transcend the watch market into pop culture is Breitling. Their celebrity brand ambassadors, such as John Travolta and Brad Pitt, have ensured that their timepieces have remained at the forefront of the general public’s mind when it comes to luxury timepieces.

There are several iconic models they have to their credit, but there is no doubt that the Navitimer is the show pony of the brand. The 7806 Breitling Navitimer is a vintage example from the 1970s that provides the function and design that have helped this timepiece stand the test of time.

Breitling, of late, has been slowly transitioning away from the oversized designs of the early 2000s and back toward the classic aesthetic that this model evokes. While not diminutive, the 41mm case size is a welcomed size for a collection that regularly pushes 44mm+.

The manual winding Valjoux 7740 is technically a step down from the modern B-01 in-house automatic movements Breitling uses today but is unmistakably vintage and beautifully designed. Starting at $4500, these vintage examples offer a great entryway into the Breitling Navitimer, with an overall aesthetic in line with the current brand’s direction.

International Watch Company (IWC) Caliber 89

Many of the watches on this list are here because of the design or function they provide their end user. Although several models from the International Watch Company could fall into that category, it is their mastery of the simple 3 handed time-only movement in the 1950s that provides the best value for those hunting for a vintage watch from the brand.

The Caliber 89 was originally developed in 1946 and was utilized through the 1960s. These watches are simple dress watches in design, featuring a 35mm stainless steel or gold case, with thin hands and central seconds.

The beautiful script of the brand’s name and city of origin was often the only writing on the dial. The Caliber 89 movement itself was an overengineered 17 jewel manually wound movement ticking away at 18000 beats per hour.

The movement featured a tasteful finish and easy serviceability to please any watchmaker lucky enough to open one up. These watches can be found between $1500-$5000, depending on the case material. If you’re looking for a watch with a simple movement that got it right the first time, this is the watch for you. 

Doxa Sub 300t

In terms of luxury prestige, Doxa is not often a brand that comes to mind for many watch enthusiasts. They make some excellent watches but fall more comfortably in the premium tool watch category. Likewise, their vintage timepieces fall into a similar category as premium tool watches.

Because of their incredible functionality and iconic dive watch history, many of their vintage pieces have crossed into the luxury price range. Despite dating back to 1889, Doxa, as many of us recognize it, really began in 1967 with the release of their iconic Sub 300t dive watch.

This watch was different from anything else on the market and was aimed directly at the diving community. The bright colors helped with visibility underwater, while the no-decompression scale helped divers calculate safe descents with a click of a bezel. 

It wasn’t long before Jacques Cousteau, the grandfather of modern diving, chose Doxa as his team’s watch to accompany them as they explored undersea. The watch itself features a 42mm stainless steel case and comes in a variety of colors, my favorite being the Professional orange. 

If you are looking for a vintage dive watch with an incredible history but doesn’t look like every other one on the market for between $3000-$5000, the Doxa Sub 300t is a great option.

Universal Geneve Polerouter

Few brands have seen the spike in popularity with their vintage timepieces as Universal Geneve. They have some of the most revered chronographs to their credit while also producing the watch we will mention here, the Polerouter.

Perhaps, the greatest achievement of this brand is that much of its success has occurred recently, while the company can only be described as a shell of its former self. The Polerouter began production in 1954 to celebrate flights between Los Angeles and Europe that could now fly directly over the north pole to save several hours of flight time.

These watches provided a degree of anti-magnetism while packaged in an elegant design that evoked the class and sophistication of flying during the golden era. The Polerouter featured a 35mm case with twisted lugs and a textured dial ring. The later versions featured micro-rotor movements that helped to keep the profile slim while still offering the functionality of an automatic movement.

Perhaps the greatest part of the Polerouter’s history for watch nerds is that it was designed by a young Gerald Genta (I think he went on to create a couple of other iconic pieces, if memory serves!). If you’re looking for a watch with an interesting history, both mechanically and aesthetically, the Universal Geneve Polerouter for $2000-$4000 is as good as it gets.

Best Vintage Watches Under $10,000

Seiko Hi-Beat Diver 6159-7000

Whether vintage or modern, Seiko is a brand known best for its hits on the more affordable side of the spectrum. They have beautiful examples from their Seiko 5, Lord Matic, and King Seiko lines that could build a beautiful collection by themselves. In the 1960s, Seiko became a fundamentally different brand from what it was during the 1950s. 

The main reason for that transformation was the introduction of their iconic dive watches. There is a lot of fanfare, deservedly so, for the 62 MAS, and as much as I love this watch, I had to choose another model from their iconic archive for this list.

The 6159-7000 series Seiko Hi-Beat diver is the watch that really laid the groundwork for Seiko to become the dive watch powerhouse that it is today. Many of the design elements that we see in Seiko’s current lineup are present here with this model. The sharp edges and compact case design help this larger-sized 44mm watch fit great on even smaller wrist sizes. 

At roughly $6000-$8000, the 6159-7000 Hi-Beat Diver carries a premium fit and finish to match the premium price. If you are looking for the watch that set the foundation for some of our favorite Seiko dive watches today, the Hi-Beat diver is the one you’re looking for.

Enicar Sherpa Graph

One of the most exciting parts of exploring vintage watches is discovering brands no longer in production. One of the best examples of this discovery for me has been with Enicar. Despite being widely unknown outside select watch enthusiast circles, they designed some of the most beautiful tool watches of the golden era.

Unlike most of the now-defunct brands, however, Enicar has an impressive collector community, and their timepieces have become highly sought after. If I am looking for the watch that really grabs my attention from the brand, I have to pick the Enicar Sherpa Graph.

This 40mm stainless steel chronograph is one of the most balanced and aesthetically pleasing dials I have ever seen. The internal tachymeter scale and contrasting sub-dials give this watch a balanced and timeless design. However, the pops of color and fun logo take this watch to another level. 

These watches are powered by the infamous Valjoux 72 and can be found for $6000-$9000 (just a little cheaper than the more famous Rolex Newman Daytona that utilizes this same movement). If you are looking for a vintage chronograph with one of the best designs available, the Enicar Sherpa Graph is a great option for you.

Jaeger LeCoultre E2644 Chronograph

You don’t get the moniker of “the watchmaker’s watchmaker” by accident. Jaeger Lecoultre is a prestigious brand with several mechanical innovations under its belt. Despite having designed movements for the most luxurious Swiss watchmakers, some of their namesake watches, especially those not named Reverso, can fall into the category of under-appreciated. 

I hesitate to call the brand under-appreciated overall, but with a historical archive as impressive as Jaeger LeCoultre, it is almost impossible not to have some models that slip through the cracks. The Jaeger Lecoultre E2644 Chronograph is another Valjoux 72 powered chronograph that hasn’t yet seen the unobtainable pricing of other watches using this movement.

Coming in at a price of $5000-$7500, this watch features a 35mm case and a 3-dial layout. Despite being considered small by today’s standards, the chronograph pushers will help this watch provide a more suitable wrist presence. 

My favorite aspect of this timepiece is the fun use of color, particularly the fume blue dials that help give this watch a unique personality. If you are looking for an under-the-radar vintage watch from Jaeger Lecoultre, the E2644 Chronograph is the one to go with.

Heuer Carrera 2447

While we are on a roll with vintage chronographs, we might as well look at one of the brands most associated with the complication, Heuer. Finding their fame with their association in motorsports, it is no surprise that Heuer would invest heavily in the chronograph complication.

They have produced several iconic timepieces utilizing the feature, but there has always been one that stands above the rest, in my opinion. The Heuer Carrera, reference number 2447, is about as perfect of a watch as you will find. They feature the Valjoux 72 chronograph movement and a 36mm stainless steel case.

The watch utilizes a 3-sub dial design and has a very balanced dial. These watches are perhaps the second most famous watch to utilize this movement, behind the Rolex and have continued to rise in popularity because of it. 

As of the beginning of 2023, these watches can be found starting at just under $10,000, but I don’t expect that to be the case forever. There are plenty of examples that exceed this amount, but if you are patient and willing to put in some work, you can get this iconic model for a price that can feel like a downright steal when compared to the competition.

Tudor Submariner 94110

When looking into vintage watches, it is hard to overlook the popularity of the Rolex Submariner. The design has changed gradually throughout the years, allowing the aesthetic to remain virtually the same while the user experience is completely different.

Unfortunately for those of us without DuckTales money, a vintage Rolex Submariner is unlikely to happen. There is, however, another vintage Submariner available, and it comes from Rolex’s sister brand Tudor. The brand ethos of Tudor to produce lower-cost quality watches utilizing Rolex parts and design with stock movements has paid dividends for vintage watch lovers everywhere.

The 40mm Tudor Submariner 94110 is a beautiful stainless steel dive watch with a very similar design to a Rolex Submariner but featuring the iconic Snowflake hands.  There is something so pleasing about the square indices and Snowflake hands that the modern Black Bay or Pelagos just can’t compete with.

These watches will set you back roughly $7500-$10000 but represent a great value when compared to their sister brand Rolex. If you’re looking for a Submariner with a unique story and design, the Tudor Submariner 94110 is the one that I would go with.

Best Vintage Watches Over $10,000

Zenith El Primero A386

Here is the point in this list where things get a little crazy! To kick us off for our over $10,000 budget is a brand that is used to being first (just don’t ask Seiko), and that is Zenith. The brand most famous for its automatic chronograph known as the El Primero, Zenith is a premium luxury brand.

The El Primero line of chronograph watches is still the brand’s staple today, so let’s look at the model that has inspired many of the watches available today. The Zenith El Primero A386 is a 38mm stainless-steel watch featuring the high-beat automatic El Primero chronograph movement.

This movement has gone on to power several prestigious watchmakers, such as Rolex, with their Daytona model before going in-house. As much as I love this watch’s mechanics, it’s not the only reason it is on this list.

The aesthetics of the tri-color dial layout are really what separates this watch from the competition. Whether you are a movement aficionado or just someone who appreciates beautiful design, for $12500-$15000, this is one of the best vintage chronographs that money can buy. 

Rolex Explorer 1016

It was only a matter of time before Rolex made the list. The watch I went with is not the most expensive or the rarest vintage Rolex I could have put on this list, but simply the one with which I connect the most. Based on its surge in popularity over the last 10 years, it’s safe to say that I am not the only one that feels this way.

The Rolex Explorer 1016 is a simple field watch housed in a 36mm case and powered by an automatic Rolex in-house movement. This watch saw the largest production period of any Rolex model spanning 40 years with only very subtle changes. The painted 3-6-9 dial has become so synonymous with this watch that it is now referred to as an “Explorer” dial. 

Given the large production run and the fact that Rolex collectors are willing to pay astronomical prices for the most minute details, this watch will set you back anywhere from $10000-$25000+. It may not be the rarest or most sought-after from the brand, but If I won the lottery today, it would be the first watch I would drop my money on (certainly not the last, though).

Vacheron Constantin 222

The 1970s were a pivotal time of transformation for the watch industry. The increased pressure from Japan and their quartz technology began to filter out any brand pausing long enough to take a breath. In contrast, the most prestigious watchmakers of the time began to dabble in a completely new market, the stainless-steel luxury sports watch.

It’s hard to believe that luxury and stainless steel had not really crossed paths prior to this period. Although several of these models are available, let’s look at one that often gets overlooked. The Vacheron Constantin 222 in stainless steel is an integrated bracelet sports watch that, despite having some inspiration from industry competitors Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, has a very unique look.

The 37mm case was considered “Jumbo” for the time period but allows this watch to be worn today in almost any situation. The distinct knurled bezel and hallmark imprinted insignia in the case help to differentiate this watch from the competition while also playing into the watch’s sportier vibes. 

Powered by a JLC 920, also known as the VC 1121 movement, this watch is as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside. Although currently not in production outside of a few re-releases, the 222 gave direct inspiration to their current sports watch, the Overseas. If you are looking for a timepiece with a distinct design from a Holy Trinity brand, the Vacheron Constantin 222, for $20,000+, is a great watch to consider.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700

When looking into iconic vintage watches, it is hard to overlook the significance of Gerald Genta. His designs helped to create an entire watch genre, not to mention help save the Swiss luxury watch industry from the impending threat of the “Quartz Crisis”.

Despite having several iconic models to his credit, some already appearing on this list, let’s look at perhaps his most hyped watch of all time. The Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 is the original version of one of the most influential watches of all time. This Nautilus remains aesthetically very similar today to the original released in 1976.

The integrated stainless steel bracelet and symmetrical crown guard design have become the signature attributes of this watch.  The movement powering this watch is the 28-255C self-winding, which is based on the same JLC 920 movement that Vacheron Constantin used for their 222 line.

The 42mm stainless steel case with the horizontally striped dial looks as timeless today as it did when it was first released. If you are looking for a truly iconic watch design and can afford the eye-watering $200,000+, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 will be hard to beat.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST

I bet you couldn’t see this one coming. We are wrapping up this list with the third member of the enthusiasts crowned “Holy Trinity”, none other than Audemars Piguet. There are several vintage models that would meet the criteria for this list, but given some of my previous picks, I can’t overlook the original stainless-steel luxury sports watch designed by Gerald Genta.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST is the watch that changed it all in 1972! It inspired 2 of the other watches on this list that I would purchase if money was no object. As much as I love the 222 and the Nautilus, the Royal Oak has the most purposeful design of the bunch.

The 39mm stainless steel octagonal case with an integrated bracelet is as tied to the Audemars Piguet brand as the name itself. The watch is powered by the caliber AP 2121, once again based on the JLC 920 movement (I guess that whole “watchmaker’s watchmaker” thing is more than just a marketing gimmick, after all). If you are looking for a watch that truly changed the trajectory of the luxury Swiss watch industry and have $60,000+ to spare, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST is the watch for you!

Conclusion

There it is, 20 of the best vintage watches you can purchase from entry-level to “who actually has that kind of money?”. Some of these options were layups, but I struggled a lot more than I expected putting this list together.

The under $1000 and over $10,000 were a breeze, but those in between budgets can actually be pretty tricky. No matter what your budget allows, following the guidelines discussed earlier will be your key to success. 

Whether you’re looking for an undiscovered gem or tracking down one of the most influential vintage watches of all time, make sure to enjoy the process. There is a lot of potential risk in the vintage watch market, but if you’re patient and well-informed, there can be even more rewards!

Happy watch hunting!