Author: William Boyd

Seiko has a rich history spanning over a century. Throughout this time, their watches have earned a well-deserved reputation for being affordable, durable, and exceptional timepieces. As a proud owner of several Seiko watches, I can personally vouch for these qualities.

However, Seiko sometimes goes unnoticed due to its Asian manufacturing origins and affordable price range. Some individuals perceive Seiko watches as disposable timepieces that lose value once they stop functioning correctly. Nevertheless, we aim to delve into this perception and debunk any doubts about the quality of Seiko watches.

Without further delay, let’s thoroughly examine the various aspects of the Seiko brand, including its background and the quality it offers, and determine why you should seriously consider owning one of its remarkable timepieces.

Background & History of Seiko

Seiko’s history dates back to 1881 when Kintaro Hattori, a 21-year-old entrepreneur in Tokyo, started a small jewelry and watch business. This makes Seiko one of the oldest watch brands still actively manufacturing timepieces. In 1892, Kintaro Hattori established the ‘Seikosha’ factory, initially focused on producing wall clocks.

Seeking to expand the range of their production, Kintaro Hattori introduced the brand’s first pocket watch, known as “The Timekeeper,” in 1895. Taking another significant step in 1913, Seiko created the first Japanese wristwatch called “The Laurel.” The production of the first Seiko-branded wristwatches began in 1924.

A pivotal moment in Seiko’s history came in 1969 with the introduction of the world’s first quartz watch, the Seiko Quartz Astron. Boasting an impressive accuracy rating of 5 seconds per month, this groundbreaking timepiece triggered the “Quartz Crisis.” It caused a significant disruption within the mechanical watch industry and led to the decline of many Swiss watch brands.

In the subsequent decades, Seiko has remained committed to innovation, achieving several notable milestones:

• In 1986, they established the world’s first Diver’s watch capable of reaching depths of 1000m, featuring a ceramic outer case.
• Seiko was chosen as the Official Timer for the Olympic Games in 1992, a testament to their timekeeping precision and reliability.
• In 1999, they introduced the revolutionary Spring Drive Movement, combining mechanical and quartz technologies for enhanced accuracy and smooth sweeping seconds hand motion.
• Seiko’s commitment to excellence was recognized in 2014 when they won the prestigious “Petite Aiguille” prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, often referred to as the Oscar Awards of watchmaking.

These accomplishments demonstrate Seiko’s unwavering dedication to pushing boundaries and delivering exceptional timepieces.

The above details only scratch the surface of Seiko’s rich history and achievements. For a more in-depth understanding, I recommend visiting their official website, where you can explore the comprehensive timeline.

Having touched upon Seiko’s remarkable history, it’s worth emphasizing that affordability remains a defining characteristic of the brand. Even today, Seiko continues to offer timepieces that are accessible to a wide range of budgets. 

Additionally, Seiko has established various tiers within its lineup, including the Seiko 5, Seiko Presage, and Seiko Prospex collections. This diversification enables Seiko to cater to different price points, making them an excellent choice for both entry-level and avid watch collectors alike.

Are Seiko Watches Good?

Below I will outline some characteristics that distinguish Seiko watches from other Japanese and even Swiss watch brands:

Design Variety

Seiko offers an extensive range of watch designs thanks to the multitude of models and collections spanning several decades. With such a diverse selection, there is a Seiko watch to suit every individual’s taste and style. Seiko timepieces come in various shapes and sizes, offering a wide array of options.

Some collectors even specialize exclusively in Seiko watches, as the brand provides more than enough options to keep them engaged. From the iconic SKX, Tuna, Turtle, Captain Willard, Pogue, and many more, Seiko offers a rich collection of distinctive and renowned timepieces.

Excellent Affordable Timepieces

Seiko boasts an extensive collection of watches, many of which offer an exceptional cost-to-value ratio. A prime example is the Seiko 5 collection, followed by the Prospex and Presage collections. Seiko 5 timepieces can be found for as low as under $100 if you search diligently.

While the Prospex and Presage collections are priced higher, they also offer enhanced build quality. This means that Seiko provides excellent value for your money, ensuring you get a timepiece that combines affordability with impressive craftsmanship.

Durable Watches

Let’s focus on the fundamental Seiko 5 collection, which encompasses five key characteristics, one of them being water resistance. Seiko has set a requirement that their Seiko 5 watches must meet water resistance standards suitable for everyday individuals. This feature ensures that the timepiece can withstand challenging conditions, particularly when exposed to underwater atmospheric pressures.

Moreover, certain watches from Seiko’s Prospex collection exhibit even stricter tolerances, offering water resistance of up to 300m. Depending on the specific Seiko collection you choose, you can be assured of owning a resilient and robust timepiece that can endure various demanding situations.

In-House Mechanical Movements

Seiko utilizes in-house movements across their range of mechanical timepieces, from their affordable models to their high-end offerings. Among their in-house movements are the 4R36, 6R35, and 8L35 calibers, and many more.

This is truly remarkable when compared to Swiss watch brands, as Seiko possesses the technical prowess to manufacture movements for all tiers within their watch collection hierarchy. In order to acquire a Swiss or even German watch with an in-house mechanical movement, one would typically have to consider brands like Tudor or NOMOS, with starting price points of around $1,500.

Thus, Seiko’s ability to produce their own movements across their entire lineup provides exceptional value and showcases their dedication to craftsmanship and innovation.

Pop Culture Stigma

Seiko timepieces have made appearances in numerous iconic movies, adding to their allure. For example, Sigourney Weaver wore the Seiko Giugiaro in the movie “Aliens,” while Robert Redford sported the recognizable Seiko SKX009 in “All is Lost”. 

Arnold Schwarzenegger famously donned the Seiko H558 in the film “Predator,” and Martin Sheen prominently wore the Seiko 6105-8119 (known as the Captain Willard) in “Apocalypse Now.” These movie appearances have significantly influenced the public’s perception of the Seiko brand.

As a result of such influential marketing, Seiko watches have experienced increased demand, with certain models becoming more sought-after and harder to obtain than others. The power of marketing has elevated Seiko to a status that transcends popular culture and society. Even your everyday aunt or uncle is likely familiar with Seiko and may have owned one of their timepieces.

Notable Seiko Watch Collections

Here are some of the most noteworthy Seiko collections, each one featuring tons of models for you to choose from:

Seiko 5

Why is there a “5” in Seiko 5, and what does it signify? Seiko introduced this affordable collection over 50 years ago, encompassing five key features that were traditionally associated with more luxurious watches at the time. These features, presented in no particular order, include:

1. Automatic movement
2. Day-Date complication
3. Water resistance
4. Recessed crown
5. Stainless steel case and bracelet

Seiko 5 watches were designed to offer a combination of these desirable attributes, making them accessible to a wider audience without compromising on quality. The inclusion of these features has been a defining characteristic of the Seiko 5 collection, contributing to its popularity and enduring appeal.

My experience with the Seiko 5 comes in the form of the Seiko 5 SNKL23. I owned it for a brief period before passing it on to another watch collector. During my time with it, I found the black dial with multiple textures and dauphine hands to be simply stunning.

The case finishing was impressive, especially considering its affordable price, featuring a combination of brushed and polished finishes. Additionally, the exhibition case back allowed for a glimpse of the automatic movement.

As expected, the letdown of the SNKL23 watch, which is common in affordable timepieces, was the stainless steel bracelet. Watch brands often cut corners in this aspect. The bracelet had hollow end links, folded-over steel links, and a pressed steel clasp.

Nevertheless, owning the SNKL23 was an enjoyable experience, and including a Seiko 5 in one’s watch-collecting journey is worthwhile. Some popular Seiko 5 models worth mentioning are the SNZF17 (Sea Urchin), SRP series (5KX), and SNZH57 (Fifty Fathoms Homage).

In summary, Seiko 5 watches provide exceptional value for money, with prices starting as low as $100 (on the secondary market, of course). Where else can you find a watch that offers the five key features, along with original designs and a rich brand heritage? Seiko 5 truly stands out in the market.

Seiko Prospex

Prospex is simply a shortened form of “Professional Specification.” This collection represents Seiko’s professional and tool watches. According to Seiko, the Prospex line “challenges every limit, with a collection of timepieces for sports lovers and adventure seekers, whether in the water, in the sky, or on land”.  I’m sure you understand the essence of it.

The Prospex collection has seen a price increase in recent years as Seiko has elevated its positioning, and the Seiko 5 collection has expanded into the territory once occupied by Prospex. Prospex watches typically start from $400 and go higher, especially for their mechanical timepieces.

However, on the secondary market, you can find them at lower prices. Seiko has categorized the Prospex collection into Sea, Land, Speedtimer, and LX lines (which feature higher-end timepieces with Spring Drive movements). The primary focus lies within the first three categories, as they hold historical and aesthetic significance for Seiko. 

The more affordable Prospex models generally house the 4R35 or 4R36 movements, although Seiko is gradually incorporating more of the newer 6R-based movements into the collection. The 6R-based movements, such as the 6R35, offer impressive features like a 70-hour power reserve while maintaining a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour.

Out of all the Seiko collections listed, I have personally owned the most watches from the Seiko Prospex collection, as I am particularly fond of tool watches. I still own the Seiko Alpinist SPB209 and the Seiko “Baby Tuna” SRP637, both designed for specific uses for mountaineering and diving. Additionally, I plan to wear my Seiko Alpinist when I visit Japan in the near future.

Some notable watches from the Prospex collection include the Seiko Orange Monster SRP309, the Seiko Turtle SRPE03, the Seiko Alpinist SPB121, and the Seiko Marine Master SLA0 models.

Seiko Presage

Seiko describes their Presage Collection as a “combination of Japanese aesthetic sense, traditional craftsmanship, and Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking skills, resulting in an original collection that offers Japanese beauty, quality, and long-lasting performance”.

In short, Presage consists of dress watches that showcase Seiko’s distinct style and exquisite craftsmanship. The Seiko Presage collection is continuously expanding, leading to subdivisions within the collection. These include the Craftsmanship Series, Sharp Edged Series, Cocktail Time, Style 60’s, and Inspired by Japanese Gardens.

Personally, I have a preference for the Craftsmanship and Sharp Edged Series, as these collections are crafted to a higher standard. They often feature sapphire crystals and employ multiple finishing techniques on the watch cases. These timepieces are aesthetically pleasing and feel more valuable than their retail prices suggest, offering great value for money.

I previously owned the Presage SPB047J1/SARX049 from the Craftsmanship Series, which features a white enamel dial, blued hands, and Roman numerals on the dial. 

My only criticism of this watch (and most Presage watches) is that they tend to be slightly thick for dress timepieces. Dress watches are typically slim to fit comfortably under a shirt cuff. Although not excessively thick, my Seiko Presage would barely fit under most cuffs, but the 12.4mm thickness became apparent when viewed from the side profile.

Presage timepieces are generally priced at $400 and above. If Seiko continues to incorporate sapphire crystals, timeless designs, and neutral case sizes (under 42mm), these watches are excellent additions to any collection.

Some iconic models from the Presage collection include the Urushi dial Seiko SARW013, the limited edition blue enamel dial Seiko SPB069 and the Seiko Cocktail SRPB43J1.

Seiko Astron

Out of all the Seiko collections listed here, the Astron is the least familiar to me due to my preference for mechanical movement timepieces. However, this collection has been in existence since December 25, 1969. As mentioned earlier, the Astron’s introduction was a significant milestone in quartz technology for watches and had a profound impact on timekeeping. 

In the current iterations of the Astron, the timepieces incorporate solar and GPS technology. This combination of technologies proves to be incredibly useful. Seiko explains that “the Astron adjusts to your time zone at the touch of a button and, by harnessing energy from light alone, it never requires a battery change”.

Seiko designed the Astron with technological accuracy in mind. The GPS function in these timepieces automatically sets the time once a day, ensuring exceptional timekeeping precision. Additionally, the Astron is solar-powered, meaning that exposure to sunlight is sufficient to keep the watches charged and running.

Furthermore, a remarkable feature of the Astron is its ability to recognize all time zones on Earth through GPS technology. This makes the Astron an ideal watch for travelers.

In terms of pricing, the Astron belongs to the more premium range of Seiko collections, with its superior build quality and innovative technology. The retail price for Astron timepieces starts at $1,600. Some notable models from the Astron collection include the SSH100 series and the octagonal-shaped SBXY061.

King Seiko

King Seiko is the most high-end collection of mechanical timepieces from Seiko, as listed here (excluding Grand Seiko and Credor). According to Seiko, “King Seiko is a mechanical watch brand that offers beautifully designed and finished timepieces with high accuracy.”

Seiko recently reintroduced the King Seiko collection in 2021. Initially, King Seiko models were equipped with 6R movements, which received criticism due to the higher price point of King Seiko watches. To address these concerns, Seiko now offers high-end 6L movements (based on Grand Seiko Calibres) in King Seiko models.

The King Seiko collection pays tribute to Seiko’s heritage and embraces classic and elegant design elements. While the dials of King Seiko watches maintain a basic design, the highlight lies in the Zaratsu-like polished finish on the watch cases. 

This meticulous finishing technique creates multiple polished facets that shimmer when light hits them. Also, the hour and minute hands are finished to a high standard, creating beautiful facets and sharp edges. King Seiko timepieces evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of what one might envision their grandfather wearing back in the day.

One criticism regarding the pricing of King Seiko timepieces is that many of them have a retail price above $2,500. At that price point, one is in close proximity to Grand Seiko Quartz timepieces, which offer a higher level of craftsmanship.

Although King Seiko is a relatively recent reintroduction from Seiko, notable modern timepieces in their collection include the SJE087 (a recreation of the King Seiko KSK) and the SPB291 (Seiko Boutique Edition with violet dial).

Do Seiko Watches Hold Their Value?

First and foremost, it’s important to note that watches should not be considered traditional investments like stocks or bonds. They are meant to be enjoyed and experienced. While Seiko watches are not investments in the conventional sense, there are certain models that have increased in value and become highly sought after. 

These are primarily limited edition timepieces, such as the Zimbe editions and vintage Seiko watches. The growing community of Seiko watch collectors and the brand’s rising popularity have contributed to the demand and collectability of these pieces.

I have personally owned several Seiko watches, and one that I regret selling is the Seiko Monster V2 (Made in Japan model). Since its discontinuation, prices for this watch have skyrocketed in the secondary market. The iconic orange dial color and the shark teeth-like hour markers make the Seiko Monster V2 highly sought after.

Another Seiko timepiece that increased in value is the Seiko 5 SNKL23, which Hodinkee described as “A Seventy-Five Dollar Watch That Looks Like A Million Bucks.” I sold it and made a small profit. These examples serve to illustrate that Seiko watches can retain value and potentially be seen as investments. However, it’s important to prioritize the enjoyment of owning watches and not solely focus on their investment potential.

Should You Buy a Seiko Watch?

My answer is a resounding “YES!” I have been collecting watches since 2014. In the famous words of Drake, I “started from the bottom” with Seiko and Orient timepieces. Seiko should unquestionably be a part of every collector’s watch collection and journey. 

It allows collectors to develop a deeper appreciation for their collection and the quality of timepieces available at various price points. Seiko can be seen as a rite of passage for collectors as they curate their collections and evolve over time.

Conclusion

In summary, Seiko watches are excellent due to their affordability, durability, and iconic status in popular culture. Having owned several Seiko watches myself, including the more budget-friendly models like the Monster, Baby Tuna, and Alpinist collections, I can confidently say that they make fantastic daily wear timepieces. 

However, it is important to address the perception that Seiko watches are solely inexpensive and lacking in technical sophistication. While Seiko does offer affordable options, their range also includes in-house movements, a diverse selection of timepieces, and impressive durability. These factors, coupled with their iconic designs, make Seiko watches a valuable addition to any collection. 

Therefore, watch collectors should wholeheartedly embrace and explore the Seiko brand, as it serves as an ideal starting point for anyone entering the world of watch collecting.

Monster, Turtle, Tuna, Sumo, Samurai, Arnie…all of these are popular nicknames attributed to Seiko watches and are a testament to just how much the Japanese Giant Watchmaker has a strong cultural presence. But Shogun? That’s one we haven’t heard of recently.

Left to obscurity and sometimes the domestic market, the Seiko Shogun has been walking in the shadow of other successful dive watches from the brand’s vast portfolio since its first appearance in 2008.

We all know that the aliases proliferating online for Seiko watches all have deeper meanings, and Shogun is not without significance either. Japanese for “military ruler”, the nickname Shogun was bestowed upon the robust diver by Seiko’s fanbase to echo the imposing presence and dominating spirit of the watch.

From the history and origin of the Seiko Shogun all the way to the iconic generations that followed its release, here is an ultimate guide to one of the most ultra-robust and accessible divers of all time.

About Seiko Dive Watches

Seiko is a brand that is respected for its commitment to producing some of the best entry-level divers in the market that has charmed collectors for decades. The story of Seiko’s diver’s line of watches can be traced to the 1960s with the Tokyo Olympics.

There was a need to produce a high-performing timepiece to help the Japanese watchmaker compete with the Swiss brands hence the launch of the first dive watch from Seiko, the 6217 (62MAS), in 1965. It doubled as the first Japanese dive watch ever with a 150-meter water resistance rating. 

Before this launch, Seiko had introduced a series of pre-divers, such as a few in the Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave collection, with 50 and 30-meter water resistance. The 62MAS, however, is recognized as the brand’s signature entry into the realm of true divers.

The first version had a small crown with reference 6217-8000 and a short production span of only 90 days. An improved version (Ref. 6217-8001) with a larger crown was released the same year. 

The watch featured all the necessary dive watch elements, including luminous hands and markers, a bi-directional rotating bezel, domed plexiglass, a date window, and a low-beat automatic movement ticking at 18,000bph.

It quickly gained popularity and was a good competitor in the dive watch market until 1967, when the 6215-8000 came on board. It was the brand’s first 300-meter professional model with a Hardlex crystal and a screw-down crown.

A year later, the 6105 model, a hotly sought-after iteration, followed. The 6105-8110, or Captain Willard, is famously worn by Martin Sheen in “Apocalypse Now”. It introduced the cushion case shape, which appears to be square with rounded sides and can be seen in the SRP collection today. 

Research and development continued as the years went by, and many iconic divers with a cult following were released. Seiko divers hold a special place in the hearts of many watch enthusiasts and continue to offer excellent performance and durability at accessible price points.

History & Origin of The Seiko “Shogun”

Immediately after its debut in 2008, the Seiko “Shogun”, officially the Ref. SBDC007, attained legendary status in the Horological sphere. The history of the iconic dive watch is themed around community involvement and a display of exceptional craftsmanship from Seiko. 

The nickname was bestowed upon the divers’ from an adoring international public. It began with the watch’s description as a “full battle armor” with “crisp lines” that evoked imagery of a warrior under attack. 

The trend continued, and like a pop out of the woodwork, Shogun was embraced by Seiko’s fanbase because of the imposing presence of the timepiece due to the armor-like elements of the case. The nickname quickly spread and became deeply ingrained in the watch’s identity, representing the dive watch’s comfort, character, value, and charm.

The Shogun is presented in a 44mm titanium case which, although lighter than steel, is highly capable of withstanding an impact without distortion. 

Coming from the Seiko Prospex line, the watch is powered by the caliber 6R15 movement, which guarantees accurate timekeeping and boasts a 50-hour power reserve with hacking and manual winding functions.

The Story of the Seiko Shogun attests to the commitment and passion of a caring community. Its alluring design, combined with excellence, undoubtedly guaranteed it a spot in watchmaking history. 

The deeper we uncover the Seiko Shogun, the more we face outstanding testaments of unique features and enduring appeal. With all these in perspective, there’s no argument that the Seiko Shogun is an iconic timepiece with a track record of excellence.

Seiko “Shogun” First Generation

The first generation of the Seiko Shogun was released in 2008. The SBDC007, along with its orange variant SBDC009 were the two dive watches to first appear in Seiko’s catalog. Let’s take a closer look at the SBDC007.

The Case & Bracelet

The case of the SBDC007 had large dimensions. It measured 44mm in diameter (without the crown) and was 13.3mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of 50.75mm. Titanium was used for both the case and the bracelet, making the watch lightweight and providing a high level of resistance to corrosion and outstanding durability. 

The classic elements defining the Shogun’s distinctive feature were first evident in the case of the SBDC007, as it featured a muscular angularity with razor-sharp transitions. 

The sharp dynamism of the watch can be noticed in crown protection, robust shoulders, angled inner lugs, deeply notched bezel, and flowing bevel along the circumference of the case that results in four flawless angles where the steeply angled lug descends.  

The case is brushed on top while the sides are polished, and the screw-down crown is signed with a simple S. The screw-in case back is also polished and has a few specs engraved in it as well as the Seiko Divers Tsunami logo.

The titanium bracelet features a three-fold clasp with a secure lock, a diver’s extension, and a push-button release.

The Dial

The dial of the SBDC007 is presented in black with applied dot markers. The black surface is matte-finished, making the applied hour markers stand out all the more elegantly. At 12 o’clock, you will notice the usual inverted triangle or arrow with a line in the middle.

At 6 o’clock, there’s an italicized “Automatic” inscription, followed by “SCUBA” and then “200m” underneath it, keeping the symmetry quite balanced. Again the 6 and 9 o’clock markers are presented in sword-tip shapes that match the minute hand, while the hour hand is a reflection of the 12 o’clock marker. 

There’s a neat date window at 3 o’clock and both hands and indices have been filled with Seiko’s proprietary Lumi Brite for excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The unidirectional bezel is executed in titanium and is a bit aggressive, with sharp sand-blasted knurling that gives it exceptional grip capabilities.

Movement

Under the hood of the SBDC007 is Seiko’s in-house 6R15 movement. The movement, which is just a step below most of the mainstream “high-beat” movements from Seiko, was produced in 2005. It is an upgrade from its predecessor, the 7S26, as it adds the hand winding and hacking mechanism to it. 

It operates with 23 jewels and beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, keeping the second’s hand sweeping gracefully across the dial. It provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours and is relatively accurate at +25/-15 seconds per day. The caliber 6R15 is a premium workforce and was made popular by Seiko’s SARB series, Seiko’s “Sumo”, “Alpinist”, and “62MAS Re-edition” watches.

Water Resistance

The SBDC007 is water resistant to 200 meters or 660 feet, making it a proper dive tool. This means it can be used for scuba diving and will comfortably keep accurate time when worn for other recreational water sports.

Other Models Of The First Generation

The other models of the first generation include the SBDC009 and SBDC029 and two limited editions, SPB057 and SPB099.

While the SBDC007 was popularly termed the “Black Shogun,” with its sleek and timeless design, the SBDC009 was referred to as the “Orange Shogun” because its vibrant color commanded a bold statement.

Moreover, due to Seiko’s commitment to continual innovation, loyalists eagerly awaited subsequent iterations. So, in 2015, Seiko ignited the passion of its dedicated fan base by introducing the Black Shogun Prospex (ref: SBDC029) to a zealous group of brand loyalists. 

The SBDC029 was pretty much a relaunch of the SBDC007 with little changes on the dial. Compared to the SBDC007, the dial of the SBDC029 had different dial inscriptions. It featured the Prospex “X” logo in addition to the word “Automatic”, but this time, all capitalized. 

Beneath that, you’ll see “DIVER’S 200m” neatly spelled out. Recall that the SBDC007 had an italicized “Automatic” inscription with the word “SCUBA” (not Diver’s) and then “200m” underneath it.

To cater to the desires of watch collectors, Seiko introduced limited editions of the Shogun designed exclusively for Thailand. Some of these editions were the Zimbe Shogun (ref: SPB057) and the Zimbe Red Shogun (ref: SPB099), released in 2017 and 2019, respectively.

Zimbe is a word coined from the Japanese name “Jinbe Zame”, meaning “whale shark”. The movement, case material, and layout of the dial are the same, but again, there are a few tweaks. 

The dials have a graduating scheme, and the words ‘Automatic’ at 6 o’clock have been replaced with “Limited Edition”. The SPB057J and SPB099 also feature sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating, as well as cyclops over the date window at 3 o’clock.

Seiko “Shogun” Second Generation

The second generation of the Seiko Shogun was launched in 2020 under the reference numbers SPB191J1 and SPB189J1. The mission of this launch was to replace its predecessor with enhanced reliability and functionality, so the main upgrade is more technical than visual. 

That said, the Seiko Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 watches retain the core personality of the SBDC007 while incorporating some of the brand’s newest materials and technologies.

For dimensions, they measure 43.5mm in diameter (so still large yet able to sit comfortably), 51mm from lug to lug, and 13.3mm in thickness. The titanium case has the same angular lugs and strong shoulders with sharp crown protections for the screw-down crown. 

The case is further finished with Seiko’s super-hard coating for additional robustness. The watches still deliver all the elements of the Shogun we have come to love, such as remarkable legibility and a 200-meter water resistance rating.

Both feature a sharp-toothed unidirectional bezel like that of their predecessors with a titanium insert. The bezel of the Shogun SPB191J1 is two-toned and presented in black and anthracite, while the SPB189J1 variant has a distinctive black and bronze layout. 

Unlike the first Shogun generation, the Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 models have an upgraded sapphire crystal, which has a better scratch resistance than the Hardlex crystal found in the first generation.

The dials of the second generation also appear smoother and more rounded, resembling those on the Seiko Monster, and boast elegant triangle-shaped markers (no dots this time around) with more rounded hands.

We highlighted earlier that the main difference is more technical, which is evident in the movement mechanism. The second generation features the updated 6R35 caliber with 24 jewels and an impressive 70-hour power reserve. In contrast, the first generation uses 6R15 caliber with 23 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. 

While both movements offer hacking functionality and manual winding, the major improvement can be seen in the power reserve as the 6R35 provides 20 hours more than the 6R15.

Ultimately, the second-generation Shogun watches stand out in more ways than one. The various tweaks on the dial enhance legibility, while the improved power reserve makes it a better choice for watch enthusiasts.

Seiko “Shogun” vs Other Seiko Dive Watches

Seiko has been at the forefront of new technologies and designs since Kintarō Hattori released the brand’s first pocket watch, the Seikosha Timekeeper, in 1895.

The Seiko Shogun and other Seiko dive watches adhere to the brand’s high standards for the manufacturing of divers, garnering acclaim from professional divers all over the globe. However, the brand offers different types of diver’s watches at different price points.

Currently, there are over 120 models of divers in the Seiko Prospex collection, from mechanical watches to the solar-powered Prospex PADI Chronographs. Let’s see how the Seiko “Shogun” compares against other Seiko Dive Watches.

1. Quality

Even though Seiko has always focused on creating affordable dive watches, its watchmaking expertise and its proprietary technology have made it synonymous with high quality and expert craftsmanship.

There may be more style and functionality at almost every hundred-dollar increment when it comes to the watches in its catalog. But you can be sure that each one is made of high-quality raw materials, and the Shogun is no exception. 

All Seiko divers undergo a series of stringent lab tests to prove quality, reliability, and durability before they are released to the general public. So the Shogun, like other dive watches, is designed to last long. The protective glass of the more recent release is made up of high-grade sapphire, while the older iterations feature Hardlex crystal. 

Titanium, which is about 40% lighter than stainless steel but just as durable against impacts with similar technical and physical qualities, also gives the Shogun an edge over other dive watches from the brand.

Divers with nickel sensitivity will find the Shogun a preferable option because of the use of titanium. But, all in all, the quality is up to par with premium dive watches at the cutting edge of technology.

2. Legibility

Seiko dive watches are known for their straightforward, thoughtful, and highly legible design. Lume is always generously applied to the hands and indices with a high level of finishing on the hands and markers that not only play with the light for aesthetic purposes but also heighten the legibility of the watch.

The Shogun like many other dive watches has Seiko’s LumiBrite on the dial which glows brightly in the dark and will keep the timepiece highly legible at depths of 200 meters underwater. LumiBrite is a tremendously improved luminous paint that is completely free of radioactive elements and quickly absorbs light energy on exposure to it which it stores and emits in the dark. 

Visibility is enhanced in every detail, and the bold markers and handset of the Shogun are a testament to this. Add that to an uncluttered dial, and you have a timepiece with no compromise or distracting ornamentation, a feature of every dive watch from the Seiko. 

3. Movement

Seiko dive watches use three different movement variations. First, we have automatic or mechanical movements (such as the 6R35 in the Shogun) which are self-winding and work by harnessing the kinetic energy from the wearer’s natural movements. 

Some other dive watches utilize quartz. This means they are powered by a battery that transfers an electric current via the quartz crystal, thus creating vibration and oscillation. The electric pulse from this oscillating movement then powers a small electric motor that turns the gears in the watch. 

The last set of dive watches uses solar energy and works by converting light energy into electrical energy, which it stores in the rechargeable battery and ultimately uses to power the watch. The first generation of the Shogun used the 6R15 caliber, while the second generation is powered by the 6R35 caliber.

The latter is an evolution of the 6R15 movement and is found in many mid-range Prospex watches. Even though it’s not a very accurate movement, it is robust, reliable, easy to service, and offers great value for money. Quartz divers win in terms of accuracy and convenience. 

Even though the 6R15 and 6R35 of the Shogun serve their purpose and count as a reliable power horses, the accuracy is poor. You will find them in dive watches that typically span the $300-$600 range, including famous dive watches like the ‘Sumo’ (Seiko SPB103J1) and the Seiko Prospex Recreation (Ref. SPB053J1).

4. Design

When compared with other dive watches from Seiko, the Shogun utilizes the same layout but adds something a little extra. The element of beauty in The Shogun can be found in the interplay of sharp angles and flat surfaces that interact beautifully with light and shadow to create a striking aesthetic effect. 

When you look at the SPB189 & SPB191, you can see the standard divers watch feature with rounded sides and integrated lugs but the sharp lines and resilience of the Shogun are quite distinctive. 

Seiko knows better than to change a proven recipe, so every feature in the Prospex collection that is loved can be seen here. I mean the overall design (which is close to that of a Samurai watch), the reasonable price, and of course, the overall performance. 

So there are no major differences, only little tweaks here and there that make the watch appear more angular, creating a beautiful contrast, light on one side and shadow on the other to create an element of beauty.

At the core, the Shogun is just like other dive watches from Seiko with a polished and brushed case, screwed case back, a screw-down crown (both guaranteeing a 200m water resistance), and a highly legible dial.

5. Price

In terms of value for money, the Seiko Shogun holds its ground against other Seiko dive watches. When comparing prices, the Seiko Shogun is competitively priced within the dive watch market. 

The Seiko Monster, for instance, starts at around $250. The Seiko Samurai is priced at about $525, while the Seiko Turtle hovers around the $400 mark. The Seiko Tuna series, known for its durability, can range in price from $300 to over $800, depending on the model and condition.

While these other dive watches have unique features and price points, the Seiko Shogun remains compelling. 

The Seiko Shogun stands out on its own merits, but it is one of the most expensive entry-level dive watches from the Japanese Giant Watchmaker because titanium is used for the case and strap. Titanium watches are generally more expensive than stainless steel.  

Even though the latter is abundant and readily available, it is more difficult to process and costs more to purchase and repair hence the higher price.

Whether you’re a sports enthusiast, an adventure seeker, or simply appreciate a high-quality dive watch, the Seiko Shogun offers a compelling package that will impress you; however, prepare to spend a bit more for it.

Should You Buy A Seiko “Shogun”?

The Shogun is a timepiece that commands instant attention. Depending on the vendor and model, you can get the Shogun anywhere from $1,200 to $3,500 for a brand-new model, and it’s no longer news that its titanium case sets it apart from other watches in the Seiko Prospex collection. Here are four reasons why you should consider adding Seiko Shogun to your collection.

• The value is just incredible.

The Shogun is a watch synonymous with excellent quality, fit, and finish. You will instantly recognize the high quality when you hold it in your hands. The watch is designed to be robust, reliable, and dependable.

• It is built using high-quality materials.

Titanium is one of the strongest materials out there, with a higher strength-to-density ratio when compared to stainless steel. The robustness of the case and bracelet of the Shogun will ensure longevity and durability, making it a watch you could wear every day for years without the slightest sign of getting worn out. From the onset, Seiko has never sacrificed durability in the making of any component, including the movement, which doesn’t change with the Shogun.

• Enhanced legibility in every detail.

From the hands to the hour markers and bezel, the high level of legibility can be seen in almost every detail. If you want a durable watch for underwater exploration, you need to be able to read it. Seiko knows this, and the Shogun will always remain one of the most legible divers. A generous application of Lumibrite on the hands, indexes, and bezel means that time can be read correctly from any angle and at any depth, adding to the watch’s appeal.

•  200 meters of water resistance.

The water resistance rating of the Shogun makes the dive watch reliable and suitable for the sport it is named for and for a great many underwater adventures. It can also be worn during sailing, surfing, and even fishing. 

Concerning availability and price. The SPB189 & SPB191 are readily available and can be gotten from authorized dealers from Seiko worldwide. If you want a budget-friendly option, a pre-owned Shogun can be bought anywhere from $750 up, but you can purchase a new piece of the Shogun SPB189 here and Shogun SPB191 right here for $ and $1,350 respectively.

Conclusion

Let’s be honest. The Seiko Shogun isn’t for everyone. If you like the concept of a timepiece with an imposing presence, large dimensions, and premium features, then it’s a great option. However, the size and muscularity might not appeal to everyone, which is just fine. 

Alternatives that can offer much of the Shogun’s features and charm can be found within the Seiko lineup. The Shogun, however, will forever remain one of Seiko’s emblematic dive watches beloved by devoted collectors, mostly because of its robustness and lightweight titanium case.