Author: William Boyd

How wrong most people are to think that a timepiece is only a mass of cold metal with an escapement gear that makes it tick. How very uninformed are many humans to believe that a watch is only a piece of cogwheel, rack, and pinions strapped to the wrist by a strip of leather, rubber, cloth, or metal.

Watch collecting involves acquiring, researching, and appreciating timepieces for their design, craftsmanship, historical significance, or investment potential. Each watch holds a unique narrative, waiting to be discovered and cherished by those who appreciate the beauty of time.

Collectors are the ones who find joy and fulfillment in sharing these stories, ensuring that the art of watchmaking will forever be celebrated. The desire to collect multiple watches might not make much sense, but the art of collecting watches has more to do with our passion, emotions, experiences, and stories.

Welcome to the world of watch collecting, where we enjoy a range of emotional outbursts from joy, anger, surprise, desire, rejection, and hundreds of other states of mind.

How to Start Your Watch Collecting Journey

If you’re a newbie and want to begin this journey, be warned that watch collecting is a horological rabbit hole. Once you’re in its burrow, it is difficult to extricate yourself. This is because the more you acquire watches, the more knowledgeable you get and the more appreciation and satisfaction you derive.

The Horological universe is very enthralling, and by the time you begin to learn the functions of a tourbillon, chronometer, chronograph, etc, you’ll find yourself head over heels in love with watches. That being said, you need a lot of guidance to build a cohesive and meaningful collection. Here’s the best way to start your watch-collecting journey:

1. Learn Basic Watch Terminology.

No, I’m not saying you should take a certified watchmaking course or become a horology wizard. Learning basic watch technology is as simple as knowing the various terms and concepts used to describe different aspects of watches. 

This knowledge helps in building connections within the watch community and would enable you to discuss specific watch features accurately and precisely. 

You’d also gain valuable insights and information. With the basic watch terminologies at your fingertips, you can identify authentic pieces, distinguish between different watch types, and understand the intricacies of watch collecting.

If you’re not sure which watch terminologies you need to learn, here are a few crucial terms to give you a jumpstart:

• Movement: Also known as a caliber, it refers to the mechanism inside a watch that powers its timekeeping functions. The two primary types are mechanical and quartz movements.

• Dial: The face of the watch where the time is displayed. It usually includes hour markers, minute markers, and hands.

• Hands: The indicators on the dial that show the hours, minutes, and seconds. They are typically made of metal and move to indicate the time.

• Crown: A knob on the side of the watch used for winding the timepiece, setting the time, and adjusting other functions.

• Case: The outer shell of the watch that protects the movement and dial.

• Lugs: Projections on the case where the strap or bracelet is attached. They secure the strap or bracelet to the watch.

• Crystal: The transparent cover that protects the dial. Common materials used for watch crystals include mineral glass, synthetic sapphire, and acrylic.

• Bezel: The ring surrounding the dial. It can be stationary or rotatable and may have markings or other functions, such as calculating elapsed time or measuring distances.

• Strap/Bracelet: The band that holds the watch on the wrist. Straps are typically made of materials like leather, rubber, or fabric, while bracelets are made of metal links.

• Complications: Additional functions or features beyond basic timekeeping. Examples include a date display, chronograph (stopwatch), moon phase indicator, and GMT (dual time zone).

• Water Resistance: The ability of a watch to withstand water without damage. It is often measured in meters or ATM (atmospheres) and indicates the watch’s level of water resistance.

• Power Reserve: The amount of time a watch can operate without being wound or receiving additional power. It is especially relevant for mechanical watches.

2. Decide the Type of Watch You Want

There are several factors to consider when deciding the type of watch you want. The watch market is vast and diverse, with numerous brands, models, and variations available:

• Vintage-inspired watch: These watches often draw inspiration from classic timepiece designs and incorporate elements that evoke nostalgia and charm. 

It’s a type of watch that will be a great option for you if you appreciate history and classic designs. Brands like Omega, Rolex, and Longines have iconic vintage models that have stood the test of time and are highly sought after by established collectors.

If you have access to a real vintage watch, which is a timepiece that is old, antique, or typically from a previous era, say at least 20 to 30 years old, it’s also a good place to start.

Vintage watches embody the craftsmanship and technical achievements of a bygone era. They can offer unique and distinctive designs that may not be commonly found in contemporary watches, plus the scarcity and rarity of specific vintage models makes them highly valuable.

• Dress watch: Now, this type of watch is typically understated, elegant, and suitable for formal occasions. To lay hands on some exceptional dress watches, you might want to try brands like Nomos, Tissot, Hamilton, and Junghans. Look for watches with clean dials, slim profiles, and leather straps.

• Sports watch: You could also try this type of watch. If you prefer a more casual or sporty style, brands like Casio, Seiko, and Citizen offer a wide range of sports watches with features like water resistance, chronograph functions, and robust build quality. 

Additionally, you might consider dive watches like the Seiko SKX007 or the Orient Mako II, which are popular entry-level options.

• Swiss luxury watches: If you’re willing to invest in a higher-end timepiece, Swiss luxury brands like Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, and Breitling are highly regarded for their craftsmanship, heritage, and quality. They offer a wide range of models to suit different tastes and styles.

Ultimately, the type of watch you need depends on your personal preferences, budget, and intended use. Consider trying timepieces in person, researching different models, and exploring various brands to find the one that resonates with you the most. 
When choosing your first timepiece, getting a great all-around, versatile, or multi-purpose watch that will excel in various situations and environments is best. These watches typically combine multiple features and functionalities to cater to a wide range of activities and needs, so they’ll perfectly fit your lifestyle.

3. Set Your Budget

Watches come in a wide range of prices, from affordable options to luxury timepieces. By setting a price range you hope to stick with, you can narrow down your choices.

This saves time and energy by eliminating options beyond what you are willing or able to spend. It will help you make a more thoughtful and informed decision to ensure that your purchase aligns with your financial situation, goals, and values.

Apart from preventing overspending on a watch, it helps you resist the temptation to make a hasty decision that could lead to regret later on. It also encourages thoughtful consideration and evaluation of your options and prevents debt and financial strain.

Why Do People Collect Watches?

Once upon a time, in a small town nestled amidst rolling hills, there lived a man named Ben who lived with his grandfather. Together, they would spend hours tinkering with gears and springs, discussing the craftsmanship and precision required to create these engineering marvels. During those precious moments, Ben’s fascination took root and grew into an insatiable love for watches.

Grandpa passed on, but Ben never forgot how he mesmerized him with the ticking rhythm of his pocket watches. As Ben grew older, his fascination with watches intensified. He spent countless hours immersing himself in the intricate world of watchmaking. 

He soon began collecting watches, and each one held a special place in his heart, symbolizing a unique moment in his life or representing a particular era of craftsmanship. One fateful day, while browsing through a market in a bustling city, Ben stumbled upon a small, nondescript stall. There, hidden amidst a jumble of trinkets, lay a tarnished old pocket watch. 

Its worn exterior showed the signs of time, but something about it caught his eye. He picked it up delicately, feeling an inexplicable connection. As he turned the watch in his hands, a flood of emotions washed over Ben. Memories long forgotten resurfaced, transporting him back to his childhood home. 

He remembered the sound of his grandfather’s laughter, the scent of freshly oiled gears, and the warmth of a loving embrace. This watch, he realized, was the one his grandfather had once owned. Unable to contain his excitement, Ben bought the pocket watch without hesitation. He carefully restored it, breathing new life into its faded beauty. 

With each tick and tock, the watch seemed to tell stories of shared moments between grandfather and grandson. As Ben delved deeper into his grandfather’s legacy, he discovered a hidden compartment within the watch. Inside, he found a worn photograph of his grandfather, a handwritten note. 

The note read, “To my dearest grandson, may this pocket watch always bring back memories of our shared love for horology”.

The watch became Ben’s most prized possession, representing the eternal bond that reminded him that love transcends time and that cherished memories can be captured and treasured forever. 

Each day, he would wind the watch, savoring the synchronized rhythm of its ticking, a harmonious symphony that whispered stories of love and passion. Ben’s collection continued to grow, and he found fulfillment in sharing his story, ensuring that the art of watchmaking would forever be celebrated. 

Through his collection, he not only amassed a wealth of horological masterpieces but also touched the lives of those who heard his tale.

People collect watches because they can be seen as tangible pieces of a story. Many collectors are drawn to timepieces that have played a significant role in horological advancements or have connections to important events or individuals. 

These watches serve as a link to the past and evoke a sense of nostalgia. People also collect watches to enjoy the beauty and elegance they bring to their wrists. Collectors appreciate the engineering and technical mastery involved in the making of each timepiece and also collect watches as a form of financial investment.

A Watch Collector vs A Watch Addict

Now I know it may seem absurd, but there’s such a thing as a watch addict. Being a watch collector without becoming a watch addict requires a balanced approach and mindful decision-making. Watch addiction, like any other addiction, can be detrimental to your health, so I’m quickly going to look at the characteristics of each one side by side.

Watch Collector	Watch Addict
Collectors make a deliberate and mindful approach to acquiring a watch.	An addict has an uncontrollable and obsessive desire to acquire watches.
Collectors set specific goals, such as building a diverse collection, focusing on a particular brand or style, or aiming for rare and valuable pieces. All true collectors carefully curate their collection, selecting pieces that align with their collecting goals and personal taste.	Individuals with watch addiction have no goals and may experience a compulsion to constantly buy new watches, often without considering their financial situation or the value of these time-telling devices.
There is more focus on the quality, craftsmanship, and value of watches over accumulating a large number of timepieces.	Watch addicts do not care about the quality. They just make impulsive purchases driven by the thrill of acquiring new watches or being caught up in the hype or trends.
Collectors tend to have a long-term perspective, focusing on the enjoyment and appreciation of their watches over time. They may view their collection as an investment, both financially and emotionally.	For addicts, acquiring watches becomes the primary goal, and the watches themselves may not hold significant personal, financial, or historical value.
Collectors maintain a healthy balance between their passion for watches and other aspects of life.	The majority of addicts struggle to maintain a healthy balance between their watch-collecting passion and other areas of life. Their obsession with watches can dominate their thoughts and actions, impacting relationships, work, and other important aspects of life.
Collectors make conscious decisions about their spending and maintain self-control to avoid impulsive purchases.	Watch addicts sometimes overspend or accumulate debt in pursuit of their obsession. This can have negative consequences on their overall financial well-being.

If you’re struggling with watch addiction, the first step is acknowledging that you have this problem and that it’s causing negative effects in your life. 

Define your goals for reducing or eliminating your watch addiction and pay attention to the situations, emotions, or events that trigger your desire to buy watches. Is it stress, boredom, or the fear of missing out? By identifying these triggers, you can develop strategies to cope with them in healthier ways.

Share your goal with supportive friends or family members who can help you stay accountable. Seek support when needed, and don’t hesitate to reach out for professional help if you feel it’s necessary.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Under $500

Starting your collection with watches below $500 is an excellent way to begin. Since the watches are more budget-friendly, you have the opportunity to acquire multiple timepieces without breaking the bank. This way, you can explore different styles, brands, and complications without a significant financial commitment.

You can expect a wide range of options across various styles, brands, and features.

You may not find luxury or high-end Swiss watches in this price range, but there are still many excellent choices available. Here are the best 5 watches under $500.

1. Seiko 5 Sports SRPE55

Seiko was established in 1881 by Kintarō Hattori. The Japanese watch brand is known for its precision, innovation, and craftsmanship, making it a prominent player in the global watch industry. 

The SRPE55 is a specific model within Seiko’s popular Seiko 5 Sports collection. The watch features a round 40.0 × 11.5mm stainless steel case with a brushed and polished finish, giving it a stylish and versatile look.

This reference has a black dial with a textured pattern, giving it depth and visual interest. The dial features applied hour markers and luminescent hands, ensuring good visibility in low-light conditions. It also includes a day-date window at the 3 o’clock position. It is powered by Seiko’s caliber 4R36, a self-winding mechanical movement, and is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

You can get the SRPE55 for around $250 to $300.

2. Orient Kamasu

Orient is a well-established Japanese brand that was founded in 1950. It offers a diverse range of watch styles, including dress, sports, and diving watches, making it popular among watch enthusiasts and casual consumers alike.

The Kamasu is a popular diver’s watch model within Orient’s lineup that draws inspiration from traditional dive watches while incorporating modern design elements. The watch features a stainless steel case that is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters (660 feet), making it suitable for recreational diving and water activities. 

It features a unidirectional rotating bezel, allowing divers to track elapsed time underwater accurately, a highly legible dial, and automatic movement. For about $300, you can get the Orient Kamasu Blue RA-AA0002L19A.

3. Tissot PRX Quartz

Tissot is a renowned Swiss watch brand that has been producing high-quality timepieces since its establishment in 1853. With a rich heritage spanning over a century and a commitment to innovation, a watch from the Le Locle-based is an excellent place to begin.

The PRX, short for “Precision, Robustness, and X-factor,” is a modern reinterpretation of a classic Tissot design from the 1970s. The beautiful watch combines contemporary elements with a vintage-inspired aesthetic, offering a versatile and stylish timepiece.

The case is 40mm in diameter, providing a balanced and comfortable fit on the wrist. The quartz watch also boasts a water resistance rating of up to 100 meters, adding a practical touch to its design.

For $350, you can get the Tissot PRX Ref. T137.410.11.041.00.

4. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm (ref. H69439931)

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm is a versatile and reliable timepiece suitable for collectors who appreciate military-inspired aesthetics, traditional mechanical movements, and a practical yet stylish design.

The Ref. H69439931 features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 38mm, making it suitable for both men and women. The dial of the watch is black with neutral earth tone minute markers and large Arabic hour numerals.

There are no additional complications such as date or chronograph functions on this timepiece, emphasizing the minimalist approach and utilitarian nature of the watch. It is powered by the exclusive caliber H-50 with an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. It also comes on a NATO strap, further enhancing its military-inspired look and comfort.

The watch has an MSRP of $595, but you can usually find it for about $500 if you shop around. 

5. Lorier Falcon Series III

The Lorier Falcon Series III is a line of mechanical watches produced by Lorier Watches, a microbrand based in the United States. The New York-based brand is owned and operated by husband and wife Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega and is known for creating vintage-inspired timepieces. 

The Falcon Series III is the latest iteration of their Falcon line and features several updates and improvements over its predecessors. The watch draws inspiration from classic sports watches of the 1960s and 1970s but has a sporty edge. It comes in a 36mm stainless steel case which is a versatile size suitable for most wrist sizes. 

The lug-to-lug distance is 44mm ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrist. The dial of the Falcon Series III retains the brand’s signature honeycomb dial, and the hands and hour markers have been coated with luminescent material for excellent low-light visibility. The attention to detail, versatility, and overall build quality are superb.

You can get this amazing, vintage-inspired everyday timepiece for $499.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Under $2000 

Starting your watch collection with watches around $2000 is a great choice because there’s a significant step up in terms of quality and craftsmanship compared to cheaper options. You can expect higher-grade materials, better finishing, and attention to detail in both the case, dial, and movement.

Plus, many renowned watch brands offer entry-level models around the $2000 mark. By starting your collection with timepieces from respected brands, you establish a foundation for your collection and align yourself with the heritage and reputation associated with those brands.

Here are our top picks from this range:

1. Longines Hydroconquest 41 (ref. L3.781.4.96.6)

Did you know that the famous winged hourglass logo from Longines is the world’s oldest trademark? It was internationally registered in 1889 (57 years after the brand was founded) and has remained unchanged for over 130 years now.

The Longines HydroConquest 41 combines the functionality of a dive watch with the refined craftsmanship and heritage of Longines. It offers a versatile and robust timepiece suitable for both everyday wear and outdoor activities, making it a popular choice among watch enthusiasts and collectors.

The timepiece is designed as a diver’s watch and offers a water resistance of up to 300 meters (1,000 feet). This level of water resistance makes it suitable for recreational diving and various water activities. It features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 11.90mm.

The bezel is ceramic, and the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with multiple layers of anti-reflective coating. This reference is powered by the Longines Caliber L888 with 72 hours of power reserve, allowing for extended periods of use without winding.

The watch comes with an MSRP of $1,775.

2. Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date (ref. 01 751 7761 4164-07 3 20 03LC)

Oris is known for its combination of Swiss quality, affordability, diverse collections, independent spirit, and environmental consciousness.

Sized at 41mm, the Pro Pilot Big Date is the perfect balance of dressy and sporty. As its name suggests, one of the notable features of the Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date is its big date complication. 

Positioned at 3 o’clock, the date display on this watch is larger than a standard date window, providing enhanced visibility. The aviation-inspired watch is designed for professional pilots and thus features a large, easy-to-read dial with prominent hour markers and hands for optimal legibility.

The robust stainless steel case features a coin edge pattern on the bezel inspired by a jet engine, and the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal. Under the hood of the watch is the caliber 751 automatic movement with 26 jewels and 38 hours of power reserve.

You can find this amazing Oris watch for $1,900. 

3. NOMOS Glashütte Tangente (ref. 101)

NOMOS Glashütte watches are known for their Bauhaus-inspired design, in-house movements, precision, value for money, and connection to the esteemed Glashütte watchmaking tradition. German watchmaking has a reputation for precision and engineering excellence, and Glashütte upholds this tradition with the Tangente Ref. 101.

The Tangente model is one of the brand’s most iconic and popular designs, making it a sought-after choice for many watch collectors.

The classic watch features a round stainless steel case that has a diameter of 35.0 mm and a height of 6.2 mm. The overall design is characterized by clean lines, simplicity, and functionality leading to a sleek, elegant, very charming, and mesmerizing watch.

The dial of the Tangente Ref. 101 features a minimalist layout, with Arabic numerals juxtaposed with stick hour markers, along with slender hands for hours, minutes, and seconds. The watch is suitable for both formal and casual occasions and is powered by the handcrafted and manually wound Alpha caliber with a power reserve of 43 hours.

The Tangente will run you back about $1,900.

4. Sinn 556 I

Sinn Spezialuhren, commonly known as Sinn, is a renowned German watch manufacturer. The brand is known for producing robust, precise, and functional timepieces that cater to professionals, adventurers, and collectors seeking high-quality watches with exceptional engineering and practical features.

The 556 I is part of Sinn’s 556 series, known for its sleek and minimalist design combined with robust functionality. The watch we have here has a satinized stainless steel case with a diameter of 38.5mm and a thickness of 11mm.  

It is built to be highly durable and waterproof, and pressure-resistant to 200 meters. The design of the glossy black dial emphasizes legibility and simplicity. The Sinn 556 I is equipped with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which offers excellent protection against scratches and impacts.

The watch is powered by an automatic movement, the Swiss Sellita SW200-1, which is one of the most robust and reliable movements you can find.

Depending on where you shop for it, you can get the Sinn 556 I for around $1,500.

5. Doxa Sub 300T Professional (ref. 840.10.351.10)

Doxa watch brand is known for its strong association with diving watches and its commitment to producing timepieces that meet the demands of underwater exploration. The independent Swiss watch manufacturer is renowned for its expertise in creating functional and reliable watches that combine innovative features with avant-garde designs.

The Sub 300T Professional is a renowned dive watch that has gained a significant following among diving enthusiasts and collectors across the globe. Originally introduced in the late 1960s, the iconic timepiece is loved for its robust construction and impressive water resistance rating.

The Ref. 840.10.351.10 features a stainless steel case that measures 42mm in diameter, with a unidirectional rotating bezel for tracking elapsed time underwater. One of the standout features of this watch is its exceptional water resistance rating of 1,200 meters.  

The watch also incorporates a helium escape valve, which allows the release of built-up helium during saturation dives, preventing damage to the watch.

It comes with an MSRP of $1,890 on the beautiful stainless steel bracelet.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Around $5000

Starting a watch collection with watches around $5000 gives you access to a wide range of design options. 

Many renowned watchmakers and luxury brands produce timepieces in this price bracket, ensuring you’re investing in a well-made watch with meticulous attention to detail.

You’ll find timepieces here that can retain their value well and, in some cases, appreciate over time, making them both enjoyable to wear and potentially a good investment.

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001)

Omega is a Swiss luxury watch brand with a long-standing reputation for producing highly accurate timepieces. 

Apart from being at the forefront of horological innovation by introducing numerous technological advancements in the watchmaking industry, the brand has been involved in precision timekeeping since the late 19th century.

The Seamaster collection has been a part of the Omega family since 1948 and has gained significant recognition for its association with the James Bond film franchise. The Diver 300M is a professional diving watch designed for underwater exploration and is water-resistant up to a depth of 300 meters (1000 feet). 

The Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001 features a 42 mm stainless steel case with a blue ceramic bezel and white enamel diving scale. The Master Chronometer-certified watch offers excellent legibility with its wave-patterned dial, inspired by the ocean.

The watch comes with a retail price of $5,900 on the stainless steel bracelet and $5,600 on the matching blue rubber strap.

2. Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

Tudor was founded in 1946 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf as a more accessible alternative to Rolex watches. The brand is known for producing high-quality Swiss watches that offer a blend of craftsmanship, reliability, and outstanding value for money. 

Its diving heritage, connection to Rolex, and attention to design aesthetics have contributed to the brand’s strong reputation in the watch industry. The Black Bay Chrono draws inspiration from Tudor’s vintage diving watches and has a distinct retro-modern appeal.

The watch features a 41mm steel case with a polished and satin finish, which is both robust and waterproof to 200 meters, making it suitable for diving activities.

The bezel is unidirectional and has a tachymeter scale with silver markings for measuring speed. The dial is clean and highly legible with sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock for 45-minute and small seconds counters, respectively.

The Black Bay Chrono can be yours for $5,450.

3.  Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW231

Grand Seiko is a brand that is celebrated globally for its blend of traditional Japanese craftsmanship, cutting-edge technology, precision, and timeless design. It has earned a dedicated following among watch enthusiasts and collectors who appreciate the brand’s commitment to excellence and its pursuit of perfection.

The Elegance SBGW231 is an elegant dress watch with exceptional beauty and refinement. It is one of the best statement pieces you can add to your collection and measures just 37.3mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.6mm.

The watch is clean and sharp with a highly polished case, hands, and indices, showcasing the brand’s signature “Zaratsu” polishing technique. This technique involves using a special tin plate to achieve an incredibly smooth and mirror-like finish, resulting in a captivating interplay of light and shadow.

It is powered by a caliber 9S64, with a power reserve of 72 hours, and you can purchase it for just $4,300 here.

4. Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 43 (ref. A32397101B1X1)

Breitling is a Swiss brand that is globally recognized for its collection of professional and tool watches that are specifically designed for various demanding environments. The Breitling Avenger collection is a range of robust and functional watches that combine a bold design with reliable performance.

The case of Avenger Automatic GMT 43 is made of stainless steel, providing durability and resistance to water and corrosion. It has a diameter of 43mm and a thickness of 12.2 mm. 

It is also equipped with a screw-down crown, ensuring water resistance up to 300 meters. The legible dial has a date display at the 3 o’clock position, and a GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) function allows you to track two timezones simultaneously. 

The additional vivid red hand indicates the time in a different time zone, making it convenient for frequent travelers or individuals who need to communicate across different time zones. It is powered by the caliber TECH-217 with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and comes in at a very solid price of $4,300.

5. IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC (International Watch Company) is a brand that has established itself as a respected luxury watchmaker. Renowned for its pilot’s watches, Swiss craftsmanship, mechanical expertise, timeless design, and notable collaborations, the Swiss brand has been on fire lately.

The IWC Mark collection pays homage to the original design and functionality of the Mark XI while incorporating modern advancements in watchmaking technology. The Ref.IW328201 is inspired by the iconic Mark II pilot’s watch, first introduced in 1948 for the British Royal Air Force.

The case of the watch has classic dimensions with a diameter of 40mm with a slim profile of 10.8mm, a screw-in crown, and a convenient water resistance of 100 meters.

The layout of the dial is superb, with large Arabic numerals, luminescent hands, and a date display at 3 o’clock. It is powered by an IWC-manufactured movement, the 32111 Caliber, with 164 components and an impressive power reserve of 120 hours.

The Mark XX comes with a retail price of $5,250.

10 Tips & Tricks To Help You On Your Watch Collecting Journey

If you have begun your watch-collecting journey, congratulations! Watch collecting can be an exciting and rewarding hobby for many people, and you’re going to enjoy every bit of it. 

However, it is also a complex and intricate hobby. There are numerous watch brands, models, movements, complications, and historical details to consider. 

Here are a few tips and tricks to provide you with valuable knowledge and expertise to make more informed decisions. 

1. Discover Your Style

To discover your style, learn about different watch styles, brands, and designs. Explore watch magazines, websites, forums, and social media platforms dedicated to watches. This will help you familiarize yourself with various options and understand what appeals to you. Determine if you lean towards classic, vintage, sporty, modern, minimalist, or other styles. Don’t forget factors like size, shape, complications, and movement types. 

If you lead an active lifestyle, you might lean towards sports watches or dive watches. If you prefer a more formal or professional appearance, dress watches might be your preference. 

Consider your needs and choose watches that align with your daily life. It helps to get hands-on experience by visiting watch boutiques and authorized dealers or watch exhibitions to try on different timepieces.

2. Research The Market

Market research is essential for watch collectors as it provides valuable insights into the value, investment potential, rarity, and authenticity of different watches. By staying informed, collectors can make educated decisions that enhance their collections and protect their investments.

Additionally, understanding market trends, popularity, and desirability allows you to make choices that align with your collecting goals and preferences. You can also identify reputable sellers, auction houses, and platforms, ensuring you transact with trustworthy sources. 

3. Save Up For Your Grail Watches

A grail watch is a timepiece you’ve been coveting, yearning for, craving, and drooling over all your watch-collecting life. It’s the haute horology timepiece that is exclusive, rare, highly valuable, and often a limited edition from a reputable brand.

Owning one of these watches sets you apart from other collectors and enthusiasts, as it showcases your discerning taste and appreciation for fine craftsmanship. If you choose wisely and purchase a highly sought-after grail watch, it can potentially provide a financial return in the future.

4. Connect With The Community

Engage with other watch enthusiasts and collectors through online forums, social media groups, or local meetups. Share your thoughts, seek advice, and learn from their experiences. The watch community is an excellent source of inspiration and knowledge.

5. Trust Your Instincts

Ultimately, trust your instincts and choose watches you genuinely love and enjoy wearing. Your style should reflect your taste and personality. Don’t get swayed by trends or others’ opinions if they don’t resonate with you.

6. Mix And Match

Don’t be afraid to try out eccentric styles and designs. Watch purists often have strong opinions when it comes to exploring leather, metal, and NATO straps for vintage watches, but never mind them, my friend. Experiment with different straps or bracelets to change the look of a watch and match your outfits or activities.

7. Buy From Reputable Sources

It’s crucial to buy watches from trusted and reputable sellers. Authorized dealers, established retailers, and reputable online platforms are safer options to ensure authenticity and receive reliable customer service. Be cautious of counterfeit watches and sellers offering deals that seem too good to be true.

8. Build Relationships With Experts.

Connect with experts and watch enthusiasts. Attend watch events, join online communities, or visit watch clubs and forums. Engaging in discussions and seeking advice from experienced collectors can help expand your knowledge and understanding of the watch-collecting world.

9. Keep Records And Documentation

Maintain a record of your watch collection, including purchase dates, prices, and any relevant documentation. This will help you track your collection’s value, provenance, and service history. Proper documentation also adds authenticity and enhances the resale value of your watches.

10. Take Care Of Your Watches

Regularly service and maintain your watches to ensure their longevity and accuracy. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals and store them properly when not in use. Avoid exposing them to extreme temperatures, water damage, or unnecessary shocks.

Conclusion

Enjoy the Journey. Collecting watches is a hobby that should bring you joy and satisfaction. Take the time to appreciate the craftsmanship, history, and artistry behind each timepiece. The journey of building your collection can be as rewarding as the watches themselves.

Guess who recently gained a strong following on the back of its astounding value propositions? Orient! Guess which Japanese brand has become the new beloved of watch forums and vintage fanatics? Orient! Guess who’s the new cult Japanese brand that offers extraordinary value? Orient! Orient! Orient!

Orient has stayed too long under the radar. The under-appreciated Japanese giant ticks all the right boxes, and that’s the reason why its timepieces are quickly gaining notoriety among popular luxury watches.

Numerous reasons create an appeal for a watch. For some, it often is the name printed on the dial, which translates to the league, hierarchy, and echelon. For others, it will be all the mechanics, practical details, and seductiveness of flawless symmetry.

With the Orient Sun & Moon, you’re more likely to enjoy all of the latter and a bit of the former for a very affordable price. The distinguished dress watch is an epitome of low-key luxury and pared-down magnificence, with the day and night indicator as its pièce de résistance.

We’re going to explore the Orient Sun & Moon collection and round up five of our favorite watches with a more popular and luxurious moon phase indication.

About The Orient Sun & Moon

Ancient civilizations learned to observe astronomical bodies such as the Sun and Moon gliding across the skies to determine time. The first record of a clock featuring the sun and moon ornamentation goes way back to the late 1600s.

It was a period of diverse experimentation with captivating ways to show the time, so it’s not surprising someone thought about this. While it’s not known who created the first sun and moon watch, the earliest reference is an English-made antique pocket watch by John Trubshaw, with this ornamentation dating from 1695. 

In the 2000s, Orient set out to create striking watches with distinct flavors of Japanese individuality. The Sun and Moon models were released as a modern version of a dress watch. The aim was to make a lasting impression on the viewers, distinguishing the brand from other Japanese competitors in the industry.

First released in 2007, the Orient Sun and Moon is a reliable, budget-friendly watch that brims with poise and class. As the name reads, the timepiece displays either day-light skies with the Sun or starry skies with the Moon. The watch features a built-in date display and a day window, providing added functionality for its wearers.

With its elegant and functional design, it stands as a prime choice for watch enthusiasts seeking well-designed, complex dress watches that deliver both style and performance at an affordable price. 

By deviating from the norm and presenting exceptional features, Orient succeeded in capturing our hearts, allowing us to experience the allure of an elaborate timepiece without compromising our financial comfort.

History of Orient

Orient’s tale begins in 1901 when a visionary named Shogoro Yoshida opened a wholesale shop called “Yoshida Watch Shop” in Ueno, Taito, in Tokyo, Japan. Yoshida swiftly gained success by offering imported pocket watches of unparalleled quality.

Embracing the spirit of entrepreneurship, Yoshida expanded his horizons in 1912 by venturing into producing gold wristwatch cases. This move laid the foundation for his future endeavors and marked the birth of a legacy that would withstand the test of time.

The year 1936 witnessed the establishment of the Hino factory in Tokyo, Japan, becoming the beating heart of Tokyo Tokei Manufacturing’s operations. This facility became a hotbed of innovation and craftsmanship, propelling the company forward for years to come.

However, the turbulent aftermath of World War II brought about economic devastation, leading to Tokyo Tokei Manufacturing’s unfortunate closure in 1949. Yet, like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Yoshida’s spirit and dedication to watchmaking could not be extinguished. 

In 1950, he breathed new life into his wristwatch manufacturing enterprise, rebranding it as Tama Keiki Company, which carried on the legacy at the hallowed Hino factory.

It was in 1951 that Tama Keiki Company underwent a profound transformation, emerging with a new identity, Orient Watch Company, Limited. The release of the first Orient Star that same year elevated the brand to new heights, captivating watch enthusiasts with its elegant design and impeccable precision.

As the years unfolded, Orient Watch Company continued to make its mark on the horological landscape. The brand’s commitment to excellence manifested in remarkable timepieces that captured the imagination of collectors and enthusiasts alike. 

The “Dynamic” in 1956, the “Grand Prix 100” in 1964, the “Fineness” in 1967 (hailed as the world’s thinnest automatic wristwatch with a day and date calendar function for its time), and the “Tenbeat” in 1970 all showcased Orient’s unwavering pursuit of horological mastery. 

In the following years, Orient continued to innovate and released various notable models, including the Orient Multi-Year Calendar, which featured a unique calendar function that displayed the day, date, and month accurately.

The new millennium also ushered in fresh chapters for Orient watches. In 2003, the Orient Technical Center (OTC) was founded and was used as a hub of innovation where timepieces were meticulously assembled. This marked a testament to Orient’s dedication to combining traditional craftsmanship with modern advancements.

In 2004, Orient’s quest for precision reached new heights with the introduction of the high-precision caliber 88700 movements in the Royal Orient watch line. The fusion of artistry and technology continued in 2005 with the launch of the Orient Star Retro-Future collection, captivating watch enthusiasts with its distinctive aesthetic.

As the brand celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2010, Orient Watch Co. commemorated this momentous occasion with a limited edition model, a testament to the enduring legacy and craftsmanship that Orient watches symbolize. 

Throughout its journey, Orient has remained committed to producing timepieces that exemplify the perfect balance between traditional watchmaking techniques and modern innovation.

In 2001, a significant development took place when Seiko Epson, one of the core companies of the esteemed Seiko Group, became the majority shareholder, acquiring 52% of Orient Watch Company. 

This strategic partnership not only brought Orient Watches under the umbrella of a renowned watchmaking conglomerate but also paved the way for further growth and expansion.

Orient Watch Company evolved into a wholly owned subsidiary of Epson in 2009. With the transfer of the business to Epson, the company continues to flourish, drawing on its rich heritage while embracing new opportunities and technologies.

In recent years, Orient has expanded its presence in the global market. The brand has gained recognition for its diverse collection of watches, including dress, sports, and dive watches. Orient continues to focus on in-house movements and offers a wide range of automatic and mechanical timepieces.

Orient Sun and Moon: In-Depth Guide

The Orient Sun and Moon is a watch that is too elegant to be ignored. Its style is undeniably captivating. However, I’ll be the first to admit that the majority of the timepiece here are not for subtlety, but friend, why wouldn’t you want to show off? 

Particularly with such a polished case, texture dial, comfortable strap, and sapphire crystal, allow me to unravel the world of the Sun and Moon series in the following categories.

Case

From yellow and rose gold-plated variants to plain stainless steel and two-tone editions, Orient Sun and Moon watches were crafted for fashion-conscious enthusiasts. The first generation of watches (launched back in 2007), were presented in stainless steel or gold-plated cases with a diameter of 41.5mm without the crown, and a thickness of 13.29mm. 

The subsequent generations go up in size and thickness until the Sun and Moon Contemporary. Apart from the “Petite” models, all the cases have a sporty edge because of their thickness, adding to the versatility of the watch. At the same time, the timepiece is slim enough to slide under a cuff without any issues. 

The cases are completely polished to give the watch an elegant look, and the lugs are rectangular with an interesting ”step-down” design. There’s a moderately-sized push-pull crown at 3 o’clock with the Orient logo on it.

Bezel

From the onset, the Sun and Moon references came with a thin, sleek bezel that allowed for a larger and more prominent display. This feature has not changed to date. If you’re wondering what the heck a bezel is, it’s the narrow border or frame surrounding the display area of a watch.

The slim bezel of the Sun and Moon watch is ideal because it provides a more immersive viewing experience and a modern, elegant aesthetic. By reducing the bezel width, more space is allocated to the actual Sun and Moon display, resulting in a larger, more legible watch face. 

This is particularly advantageous for a decorative watch such as this as it allows for better readability of the Sun and Moon’s interactive elements.

Crystal

Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the current reference of the Sun and Moon series from the front. Sapphire crystal is the second hardest material on Earth, right after diamond, and is considerably harder than other common watches crystal materials like mineral glass or acrylic. 

It is highly valued for its exceptional hardness and scratch resistance, making it highly resistant to everyday wear and tear. It is also more expensive than other traditional watch glass materials and is often reserved for high-end watches.

On the Orient Sun and Moon, the sapphire crystal provides excellent protection to the watch face, preserving its clarity and preventing scratches from occurring. It also offers a level of transparency, allowing for clear visibility of the dial and hands.

Dial & Hands

The specific design elements, colors, and details of the Orient Sun and Moon dial can vary depending on the model and edition.

Orient has introduced various dial variations throughout the years, catering to different tastes and preferences while maintaining the mesmerizing elements that define the series’s character.

Across all the references, what unites each watch is the presence of a day/night indicator. So all the dials display a moon when it is night and a sun to represent the day – hence the name “Sun and Moon.”

Depending on the generation, the sunburst dials come in either white, black, blue, champagne, or gold color, with baton-style, Roman or Arabic hour markers, and dauphine-style or leaf-shaped hands. The hands are always in bold colors, too, like royal blue, gold, silver, or black. 

Movement

Throughout their brief lifespan, the Orient Sun and Moon watches have utilized different movements. From the Orient Caliber 46B46 that powered the first generation of watches to the caliber F6L24 and caliber F6B24 in the Open Heart and Contemporary models, respectively, the brand has shown commitment to improving the line’s appeal.

The upgraded movements hacks, hand-winds, and has a quickset date which the Caliber 46B46 lacked. Apart from these mechanical in-house calibers from Orient, which powers most of the watches, there are also smaller quartz-powered timepieces in the Sun and Moon Petite model with superlative accuracy. 

Strap

Again the Sun and Moon watch offers different strap options depending on the reference and generation. The most common and traditional strap associated with this series is a black or brown embossed leather strap with a push-button buckle deployment clasp. 

Price & Availability

Prices vary and range from about $220 to $550 for a new piece, with more recent versions commanding a higher price tag. Orient Sun and Moon watches are typically available through authorized Orient retailers worldwide. Additionally, Orient operates its boutiques in various cities, and you can explore and purchase their timepieces online. 

However, it’s worth noting that some limited editions or special models may have restricted availability and could be subject to waiting lists or allocation procedures. The Orient Sun and Moon 65th Anniversary Limited Edition, for instance, had a production run of only 3,000 pieces under the Ref. SET0T005Y.

Orient Sun & Moon Generations & Models

Orient is respected as one of the few fully integrated watchmakers from Asia. The brand designs and develops its movements using leading-edge technology. It doesn’t take a genius to figure out just why Orient watches are becoming so enduringly popular. 

They provide exquisite style and meticulous timekeeping and are affordable. Did I mention they are also unfailingly durable? No matter which version of the Orient Sun and Moon watch you choose, you can be sure of superlative quality. 

However, only recent releases combine resplendence with the brand’s demonstrated savoir-faire, as upgrades were necessary to meet today’s standards. The many dress watches of the Sun and Moon series can also make identifying the right one a difficult process. 

With multiple generations, a range of dial colors, and strap options, this guide can help you navigate through the manifold world of the Orient Sun and Moon generations and models.

Orient Sun & Moon Generation 1

Despite a rich history of creating high-quality timepieces under its belt, Orient watches were pretty much unknown until the early 2000s when the brand enjoyed an upsurge. 

The first version or generation of the Orient Sun & Moon is exactly what it seems; the earliest in order. It represents the early simple days of dress watches and is reported to have been launched in 2007.

Orient’s struggle to leave its mark in the Horological world and claim its spot in the ascendancy can be identified in this first generation which bears the undeniable marks of a transitional period. 

The case of the first version is a strong medium-sized piece of stainless steel that measures 41.5mm across and has a thickness of around 13.29mm. Quite similar in look to the current Sun and Moon generations we know now, the round steel case has a thin sloping bezel and a comfortably short lug-to-lug distance.

The case size is the smallest of all the generations but, in my opinion, is the most suitable for an elegant and comfortable dress watch. The undeniable charm of the models in the first generation owes a lot to the dial. 

The look is classic, tastefully designed, and consistent across all the references, with baton-style markers that cut out into the chapter ring. Only this first generation has a rectangular date window cutout at the six o’clock position.

The sub-dials dedicated to the sun and moon and day indications overlap each other obliquely at the upper half of the dial. The layout is classic, clean, and balanced, so the models of this version are perfectly legible. 

You should note, however, that the dial does not contain any luminescent material. If, like me,  you’re not fond of lumed dress watches, this is a plus. The hour markers are thicker than the ones in other generations, and the dauphine-style hands are bulky and come in different bold colors ranging from royal blue, gold, silver, and black, depending on the case and dial. 

The Ref. FETOP001W, for instance, has gold hands to match the dial and case. Powering the models in the first generation is the Caliber 46B46. It is a self-winding movement that does not hack or have a quickset date feature.

Orient Sun & Moon Generation 2

The second generation of the Orient Sun & Moon collection is reported to have been launched in 2012. From this point on, we begin to see a more consistent look which evolved only slightly to give us the contemporary look we know today. Unlike its predecessor, this version features Roman numerals and no bar hour markers anymore.

The sporty edge of the first generation is done away with completely, as the use of Roman numerals on the models here creates a sense of refinement and elegance, harking back to a bygone era. The dial is also presented in a more decorative manner, with intricate typography and embellishments, further enhancing the classic aesthetic.

The date window now lies between 7 and 8 and no longer 6 o’clock, replacing the original position of the signature. Again the looks and specs of the automatic dress watch have changed to fit into the trendy lifestyles of customers who want timepieces that combine refined elegance with superior quality. 

The watch now comes in a 42.5mm stainless steel case, which is water-resistant to 50 meters, and comes on a leather strap (irrespective of which reference you choose). The models also include gold-plated editions with a brown or champagne dial. For instance, the Ref. ET0T001W features a gold-plated case with a white dial.

The case’s thickness has also increased a bit from 13.29mm to 14.1mm and is great for wearers who appreciate the substantial presence and weight of a thicker watch on their wrist. It’s not too thick; it’s just bold with a robust appearance. It’s an excellent watch on the wrist, with good proportions.

For the first time, a reflective blue dial version is made available. The sub-dial arrangement is the same as the first generation, but more texture has been added, enhancing the overall aesthetic allure. 

The hands are now leaf-shaped and not dauphine-style anymore, and the movement has been changed from the Caliber 46B46 to the Orient Caliber 46B40. 

I don’t consider this very much of an ‘upgrade’ since the new movement still doesn’t hack or hand-wind. Yet again, there’s no quick date wheel, so unless you’re a hardcore collector who is passionate about hunting out elusive models, I don’t recommend buying the first or second generation of the Orient Sun and Moon.

Orient Sun & Moon Generation 3

The second generation infiltrated the watch market until half a decade after its release when Orient decided to bring on a different package for the next generation of the Sun and Moon watch. Little tweaks and improvements separate the Orient Sun and Moon generation 3 from generation 2, as the formula is pretty much the same.

Both feature a 42.5mm stainless steel case, use Roman numerals, have a depth rating of 50 meters, and are available in the same color palettes. Some of the models here are also gold-plated for an elegant feel like those of the second generation. For instance, the Ref. RN-AS0004L and Ref. AK00001Y come in a gold-plated stainless steel case.

The main tweak is found in the movement, as watches in the third generation of the Sun and Moon series get their power from the in-house Caliber F6B24. Finally, we get a movement that allows the wearer to hand-wind it for adjustments, and we also get a quick-set function for the date.

The date indicator has maintained its position between 7 and 8, but the Sun and Moon complication has been adjusted to the bottom right. So, the day/night indicator is now at 5 o’clock, while the day display now lies between 9 and 11 o’clock. 

The case is still thicker than you would expect for a dress watch (at 14.1mm), but this provides better protection for the internal components and makes the watch more resistant to shocks and impacts. 

The watches here are unique because this collection has something for everyone. No surprise that it’s a continual best-seller even after new models come on board. It requires an investment of roughly $300. 

Orient Sun & Moon Generation 4

Orient seems to have an ongoing relationship with the Sun & Moon. The commitment to continually improve the fantastic value-for-money dress watches of the Sun and Moon series is commendable.

Generation 4 of the Orient Sun & Moon series is identical to Generation 3 to a great extent, except for the use of Breguet Arabic numerals and not Roman numerals. It is also more enhanced than the first generation and does not use baton indexes at all.

The case is completely satin-brushed, giving the watch a more refined look than its predecessors. The dial texturing has been replaced with a pristine, smooth satin surface that reflects the light beautifully. The blued-steel leaf-shaped minute and hour hands enliven the dial while contrasting beautifully with the background for enhanced legibility.

Tastes and styles have evolved, and Orient demonstrates its style-conscious capabilities by honing the aesthetics of this high-quality dress watch to meet today’s standards. The fourth generation remains an effortlessly chic dress watch that looks absolutely stunning. 

Orient Sun & Moon Open Heart

An open-heart timepiece reveals its inner workings through a small window on the dial. The balance wheel rotates back and forth, driving the hands as it does, so it is visible through this window. Some people are fascinated by the inner workings of a watch and wish to see their timing devices tick. 

Orient has allowed such ones to admire the movement within without sacrificing the aesthetics of the Sun & Moon watch design. The diameter of the polished stainless steel case of this lineup is around 42mm, and the thickness is 14 mm. The open-heart design on the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, making it more resistant to scratches. 

It is called open-heart because the balance wheel serves as the “heart” of the watch, and it takes the place of the day indication, so all that can be seen now is a heart that reveals a bit of the caliber. Owners of this timepiece can look deeper and view the mechanics of the automatic caliber F6L24 which offers hacking and hand-winding options and has a power reserve of 40 hours.

There is a variant with a metal bracelet and black dial, another with yellow-gold elements under the reference number RA-AS0001S and the most elegant option, which features a white dial and black leather strap. If you’ve been wondering just how a mechanical watch works, this piece will help you understand.

 Orient Sun & Moon Contemporary

The Sun & Moon Contemporary was dubbed a re-edition of the first generation. But what it looks like is a sleek package with all of the best features from the first generation to the fifth. So, feel free to call it the amalgamation of the Sun & Moon. 

Like the first generation, the watches here use indices to mark the hours. But, the day/night indicator is not positioned at the upper half of the dial but at 5 o’clock, as seen in Generation 3 and 4. The subdial for the day display takes a fitting position on the top left of the dial’s quadrant between 9 and 11 o’clock. 

There’s a date aperture at 3 o’clock, which is a small neat rectangular cutout that can only display a single numeral. The Ref. RA-AK0301S features a white dial with gold-plated indices, while the Ref. RA-AK0302B and Ref. RA-AK0304B features blue and black dials, respectively.

The stainless steel case of the Sun & Moon Contemporary measures 41.5mm in diameter, making it a bit slimmer than the generations 2, 3, and 4. It is water-resistant to 50 meters and is powered by the Orient Caliber F6B24.

Orient Sun & Moon Petite

The Orient Sun & Moon Petite is the ultimate understated and stylish dress watch to elevate your style around the clock. Labeled and billed as a woman’s watch, I think this Petite model is also perfectly suited for men who have smaller wrists. The regular line is already crowded with timepieces that are too large for many men, so this is a welcome addition.

The case measures 34.8mm in diameter, and the thickness is now 8.7mm. You’d think the entire design of the Sun and Moon package would be condensed into a smaller dial making it crowded; however, the dial is pretty much uncluttered. It flawlessly maintains the symmetrical sub-register layout with the date at 3 o’clock, the sun and moon indication at 6 o’clock, and the day at 9 o’clock. 

None of the indications overlap, and Roman numeral hour markers are featured throughout the references. The 8.7mm thick case size is possible because of the Japanese quartz caliber KUE00 that powers the watch. Each timepiece comes fitted with a comfortable leather strap and a matching deployant clasp.

Should You Buy an Orient Sun & Moon Watch?

I get it. We don’t necessarily need to look at our watches before we discover the status of the sun and the moon. Maybe only a handful of enthusiasts who have some experience with the midnight sun or polar night will find this feature tremendously helpful. 

But if, like me, you’re not in that category and are wondering if you should buy an Orient Sun & Moon watch? Yes, you should, my friend, you definitely should. There are several compelling reasons to consider buying the Orient Sun and Moon watch. 

Here are some key points that make it a popular choice:

• Heritage and Reputation: While Orient may not have the same level of mainstream recognition as some luxury Swiss watch brands, they have a strong following among watch enthusiasts who appreciate the brand’s commitment to quality and affordability. 

In recent years, the Japanese watch manufacturer has been gaining more attention and popularity in the watch community as people recognize the value they offer compared to other brands in the market.

• Diverse Range of Designs: Orient offers a wide variety of watch styles, ranging from classic and elegant to sporty and modern. 

Whether you prefer a traditional mechanical watch or a modern quartz watch, the Sun and Moon series has a model to suit your taste. 

• Affordable Luxury: The watches in the Sun and Moon series offer excellent value for money. While they may not have the same price tags as some luxury Swiss watches with the same offerings, the timepieces here provide exceptional craftsmanship and functionality at a more accessible price point. 

This affordability makes it an attractive option for both watch enthusiasts and casual buyers.

• Automatic in-house calibers: Orient has shown a strong commitment to technological advancements. The brand is among the few watch manufacturers from Japan to manufacture its movements in-house. The movements powering the Sun and Moon timepieces are reliable and affordable.

• Quality Materials and Durability: The Orient Sun and Moon series is home to watches crafted with high-quality materials, including stainless steel, sapphire crystals, and premium leather. 

This attention to materials contributes to the durability and longevity of the timepieces in this line. Every one of them is built to withstand daily wear and offer reliable performance for years to come.

• Masterful styling with intuitive fashion appeal: Apart from the fact that it is so exhilarating to watch the sun and moon circle on your wrist,  the watches in this series represent true elegance.

Orient’s careful attention to detail and their desire to continuously convey a pleasing allure is visible in every generation. The Orient Sun and Moon watch is the ideal accessory for your collection, fitting for use at the office as well as in casual settings.

Alternatives to the Orient Sun & Moon

If you are enthralled by the celestial appeal of the Orient Sun & Moon watch but desire something more luxurious with a real moon phase complication, there are several great options at different price points.

Now this is not to say that the Orient Sun and Moon series is a default option and not to say they are the poor man’s choice. By all means, the Sun and Moon models are not to be seen as watches for the ‘unprosperous’. 

We all know that wearing a timepiece with a rotating disc or sub-dial depicting the moon’s phases can be both elegant and mesmerizing, making the watch a work of art on your wrist.

Moon phase complications have a long history in watchmaking and are considered one of the most romantic and poetic complications. They date back to the 17th century when watchmakers started incorporating them into timepieces.

The moon has captivated humanity for centuries and is associated with various emotions, moods, and cultural symbolism. Its ever-changing phases represent the cyclical nature of life, the passage of time, and even romance. Wearing a moon phase watch can evoke a sense of wonder, nostalgia, and appreciation for the natural world.

That being said, it’s not a bad thing to desire something more luxurious, sophisticated, and absolutely stunning. Let’s delve in.

Oris Artelier Moonphase (ref. 01 781 7729 4031-07 5 21 65FC)

Oris is one of a small handful of Swiss watch brands known globally for its expertly crafted mechanical watches at affordable prices. The Artelier might not be as popular as the Aquis or the hyped Divers Sixty-Five, but the elegance of this reference just goes to show how much we need to start paying attention to the Artelier range.

The Artelier Moonphase has a classical design with a round stainless steel case that measures 40.5mm, which has slim, tapered lugs, as well as a clean bezel. The watch features a moon phase complication, which is a display that shows the current phase of the moon. 

This complication adds a touch of sophistication and romance to the watch, making it a popular choice for those who appreciate traditional watchmaking and celestial aesthetics. The moon phase indication is positioned at 12′, the date at 9′, the day at 3′, and a second timezone display at 6′.

The silver dial features a guilloché-like pattern with rose gold-plated indexes and luminescent hands to match the case. Expect to spend $2,350 for a new piece.

Longines 1832 (ref. L4.826.4.92.2)

Located in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, Longines is famous for creating the very first chronograph movement designed for a wristwatch, the ‘13.33Z’. The 1832 collection features classic and elegant timepieces that embody the brand’s rich heritage and craftsmanship. 

The Ref. L4.826.4.92.2 further reflects the collection’s ethos, showcasing refined aesthetics and reliable performance. “1832” pays homage to the year when Longines was founded in Saint-Imier, Switzerland so this is a very significant timepiece.

The watch clearly has a strong vintage spirit, but its technicalities are contemporary. The finely polished case measures 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 12.30 mm. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has multiple layers of anti-reflective coating on the inner side. 

The beige dial features a moon-phase subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock with a date disc at its border, completing the functionality of the watch. The watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement; the Caliber L899 with a power reserve of up to 72 hours. It retails for $2,812 on the brand’s website.

Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture (ref. FC-705S4S6)

Founded by a group of independent entrepreneurs in 1988, Frederique Constant is a Swiss brand famous for its high-quality classical watches at intimidating prices. The Slimline Moonphase Manufacture combines a classic design, precise mechanical movement, and a functional moon phase complication. 

If you’re looking for a modern dress watch that is a classique amongst the classics, this refined timepiece with an expensive look is just what you need. The Ref. FC-705S4S6 applies the laid down codes of traditional vintage dress watches in combination with contemporary elements. The watch is presented in a smooth and round stainless steel case that measures 42mm across and has a thickness of 11.3mm.

The combination of silver-applied indexes and a discreetly brushed white dial with a sun-ray pattern gives off a rich palette that you can’t fail to notice. Encircling the moon phase indication at 6 o’clock is the date pointed by a small, sleek hand. The watch is powered by the in-house caliber FC-705 and retails for $6,295.

Omega Speedmaster Moonphase (ref. 304.33.44.52.03.001)

Every horological talk about the moon always reminds me of OMEGA. When Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface, Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster ST 105.012 became the first watch ever worn on the moon.

That was the deed that solidified the Speedmaster’s status as one of the greatest watches in history. The Ref. 304.33.44.52.03.001 is one of the best interpretations of a classic moon phase watch that is so spectacularly beautiful it will make your heart skip a beat.

The watch takes the spirit of exploration into untold heights of beauty with its 44.25 mm stainless steel case complemented by a blue ceramic bezel ring with Liquidmetal®. The Liquidmetal alloy is an amorphous metal three times harder than stainless steel.

The enchanting blue dial features highly contrasting luminous markers with a breathtaking moon phase indication at 6 o’clock. The watch is also certified by METAS as a Master Chronometer, thanks to the impressive Caliber 9904 ticking underneath the hood. It retails for approximately $9,000.

Breguet Classique 7787 (ref. 7787BR/12/9V6)

Breguet is the undisputed master of fine watchmaking complications. In case you didn’t know, the Swiss Marque invented the tourbillon. Not only was the brand held in high regard in all the Royal courts of Europe, but it also revolutionized the art of watchmaking. The Classique 7787 Ref. 7787BR/12/9V6 carries on the prestigious history and legacy of Breguet with its classic and timeless design. 

The watch is inspired by the Breguet Nº5, an antique pocket watch with captivating features. Classic features such as the iconic coin-edge case, blue Breguet-style hands, and a fine “grand feu” enamel sets this timepiece way ahead of others in the same caste.

The display of the dial is intentionally unbalanced as Abraham-Louis Breguet (the founder and designer of the Breguet Nº5) intended it to be legible and functional in the best possible way. The watch is encased in a 39mm 18k white gold with a delicately fluted case band and sapphire crystal case back. 

The poetic moon phase indication is placed at 12′, and the watch is powered by the caliber 591DR with a power reserve of 38 hours.

Conclusion

So there you have it, pretty much everything you should know about the Orient Sun & Moon watch. With all of this said, nothing more can be added except the fact that the Orient Sun and Moon series combines high fashion with utility and should be added to your collection. The durability, modest price tag, and unobtrusive and elegant dial make it a perfect budget-friendly dress watch.

Long before planes were invented, humans dreamed of flying. Centuries ago in Greek mythology, there lived Icarus, son of Daedalus, a mythical inventor who constructed wings out of feathers and wax. The wings were to aid the duo in flying out of Crete, where they were held captive by King Minos. 

Taking to flight with unfathomable excitement, Icarus soon forgot his father’s warnings and flew too close to the sun. His wings melted, and he died, but the myth implied that man’s innate desire to fly would be impossible. 

Yet the desire lived on, and on December 17th, 1903, the Wright brothers invented the world’s first successful motor-operated airplane. The wish to soar through the atmosphere was now granted, but another need was created, namely a timepiece to help the pilots keep track of their flying time.

Positioned more as statement pieces today than critical tools used in the air, pilot’s watches were launched to serve as timing devices for aviators. Nothing best captures the intrigue and excitement of a navigator’s lifestyle like a pilot’s watch.

This is why we put together a comprehensive list of the best pilot watches to satisfy your aeronautical fantasies. Enjoy!

About Pilot Watches

During the early decades of aviation, there was no such thing as aeronautical timing devices. Pilots desperately needed a timer because the timing was a vital element in nearly every aviation-related calculation.

To meet this pressing lack, timing devices were created to help pilots with simple calculations and keep accurate flight times. The first was a small gold watch with a square face and exposed screws, constructed by Louis Cartier.

Aviation watches are considered to be one of the first real onboard “computers” for pilots. They often feature specific characteristics and functionalities that are useful for flight-related activities. 

All pilots’ watches are designed with aviators in mind; thus, the dials have a highly legible display, large enough to be read when flying. 

Many pilot’s watches include chronograph complications, which enable pilots to measure elapsed time for various tasks, such as flight calculations and navigation.

The pilot’s watch saw innovations to make an aviator’s job even easier, and many of them on the market today incorporate useful features. 

These include dual time zone displays, integrated slide rule bezels or E6B flight computers, and anti-magnetic and shock-resistant constructions to help protect the timekeeping accuracy of the watch. 

While not a universal feature, many pilot’s watches offer water resistance to varying degrees. This is useful for pilots who may encounter wet conditions or work around water bodies during their operations. 

History of Pilot Watches

The history of pilot’s watches dates back to the early days of aviation when reliable timekeeping was crucial for navigation and flight operations. 

According to connoisseurs, the story begins in 1904 when Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont asked his friend Louis Cartier to design a watch specifically for his aviation needs. 

The innovative Cartier came up with a wristwatch that featured a square case with the unmistakable sapphire cabochon crown, a large dial with Roman numerals, and a simple design. 

The World War began in 1914 and ushered in major changes in aviation. The demands of military aviation during World War I led to the development of dedicated pilot’s watches. The British Royal Flying Corps issued watches to their pilots featuring large, easily readable dials and robust construction. 

The growth in pilot watches escalated, and during the 1930s and World War II, German watchmakers such as A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, and Stowa produced pilot watches known as “Fliegeruhren.” Alongside timekeeping, pilots required watches with additional features for navigation. Chronographs, which included stopwatch functionality, became popular among aviators. 

Brands like Breitling and Longines produced chronograph watches with various scales and additional subdials for measuring elapsed time, calculating distances, and performing other calculations.

Today, pilot’s watches continue to be extremely popular not only among pilots but also among watch collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate their functionality, aesthetics, and historical significance.

The Best Pilot Watches

Seiko Pilot Chronograph SNN241

Seiko’s contribution to the aviation industry has been relatively minor; however, not including a watch from the Japanese giant watchmaker would be a transgression. There may not be tons of dedicated pilot watches from the brand, but the SNN241 meets and exceeds the criteria for an aviation watch. 

Behold one of the best watches available in the sub-$150 price range! If you’re a fan of classic pilot watches and looking for a no-nonsense watch with suitable military vibes, look no further.

Seiko offers this solid, value-priced chronograph that is large and easy to read in a 42.6 mm stainless case with a thickness of 11 mm. The tactical watch has a clean brown dial with contrasting white numerals and indices, offering excellent readability. 

There are minute markers around the outer rim of the dial, and the watch also has two sub-dials for measuring chronograph functions and a date window at 6 o’clock. It is powered by the Seiko Caliber 7T94 and is worn on a comfortable contrast-stitched leather band with buckle closure.

AVI-8 Timepieces Gutersloh (ref. AV-4088-22)

AVI-8 was founded in 2012 by a combination of pilots, watchmakers, and engineers. The watch brand is known for its unique and functional design, which draws inspiration from aircraft and aviation history. 

At about $160, the Gutersloh Ref. AV-4088-22 is a stunning, straightforward timepiece that pays tribute to Britain’s distinguished military aviators who gave their lives for a worthy cause during WWII. It is presented in a stainless steel case that measures 43mm across and is 12mm thick. 

The dial features an army-blue color which is a distinct addition that stands out from the majority of pilot watches with black or blue faces. The design elements are inspired by the aircraft’s cockpit instruments and aesthetics, so you will find two recessed subdials at 9′ and 3′, enclosed by cockpit instrument-style frames. 

There is a highly legible dial with bold applied Arabic and baton indexes, all coated with Swiss lume on a matte canvas. There’s also a date window at 6 o’clock and an additional orange-colored hour hand to indicate time in a different time zone. 

Orient Pilot’s Sports Watch (ref. RA-AC0H04Y)

Orient has a timepiece for everyone. From elegant dress watches to rugged divers and, of course, pilot’s watches, the brand is getting increasingly popular in the watch community. At $200, the Ref. RA-AC0H04Y is an effortlessly functional pilot’s watch that offers exceptional value for money. 

The 42.4mm stainless steel case is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. The layout of the beige dial emphasizes easy readability and a tool-like feel. The dial has a large minute ring on the perimeter with a distinctive black print. 

There is a date display located at the third hour, and the face of the watch is protected by a mineral crystal. The watch is worn on a stylish all-occasion brown leather strap with contrasting light stitching. It is powered by the Orient caliber F6722, an in-house self-winding automatic movement with 22 jewels and a power reserve of 40 hours.

Citizen Chandler Pilot Chronograph (ref. CA0621-05L)

Citizen is an absolutely legendary watch manufacturer that has been around for over 100 years. Known for its high-quality, technical and affordable timepieces, the Japanese watch company is respected for adding eco-mindfulness as a core value. 

Since it launched its first light-powered timepiece with proprietary Eco-Drive technology in 1976, thousands of exceptional watches with outstanding build quality and innovative technology have followed.

The Pilot Chronograph Ref. CA0621-05L is a reasonably priced aviation watch that stays true to original pilot watches used during World War II. The stainless steel case is relatively large at 42mm in diameter and features flat protruding lugs, which will make it feel a bit bigger than it is.

With 100 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown, this timepiece can be worn comfortably in the air, at ground level, and underwater for activities like swimming. The iris blue dial has a lot of information but is highly legible and uncluttered. The watch features Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology, which works by running off light as its power source and retails for $230.

Citizen Promaster Altichron (ref. BN5058-07E)

Honoring the world of pilots and aviation is the Promaster Altichron Ref. BN5058-07E. Many pilot watches are purely technical, and only a few standout pieces can combine technicality with pure aesthetics as this one does.

Encased within a 47 x 11mm stainless steel case with prominent pushers and crown, the Altichron over delivers the attributes required for a top-notch aviation watch. First off, the titanium bezel features a compass ring, and on the inside, you’ll find an altimeter, which measures altitude. 

The dial is pretty busy, no doubt, but this is a function-packed watch that was designed to work well up to 32,000ft above sea level. Plus, it has a water-resistant rating of 200 meters. Talk about cool!!

On the black dial with red accents, one finds large SuperLuminova-coated Arabic numerals, large sword-shaped hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. Altogether, the watch is all about functionality and readability. Like most watches from Citizen, the Ref. BN5058-07E is powered by the brand’s Eco-drive solar movement. It retails for $595 and comes fitted with a black rubber strap.

Laco Augsburg 42 (ref. 861688.2)

Headquartered in the southwestern German town of Pforzheim, Laco is generally regarded as the originator of the German Pilot Watch. The brand, which was founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel, has been an established part of the German luxury watch scene since the 1920s.

Inspired by pilot’s and deck watches from the 1930s, the Augsburg 42 Ref. 861688.2 is a robust aviator watch presented in a sleek brushed 42mm case with a solid screw-down crown. The dial is pretty straightforward with a simple matte black finish. It is adorned with rectangular minute indices and Arabic numerals for marking the hours.

The hands and indices are legible even in low light thanks to ample punchy-green lume. Protecting this dial is a double-domed sapphire crystal. It retails for $420 on the brand’s website and comes fitted with a brown calfskin leather strap.

Seiko Flightmaster SNA411

Imagine trying to navigate a mountain range in a blizzard without a reliable watch. From long-haul flights to snorkeling trips, the Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 is the ultimate adventurer’s watch. 

Whether you’re a pilot or aviation enthusiast searching for an accurate, sturdy, reliable, and affordable watch that looks good, too, this military-grade and rugged timepiece is your best bet. The Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 is an impressive chronograph watch presented in a finely brushed case that measures 42mm across and has a thickness of 13mm.

The stainless steel case is matched with a 20mm wide bracelet that flawlessly combines polished and brushed finishes. It also has three sub-dials for compass, stopwatch, and alarm, which makes the dial pretty interesting to stare at. The quartz-powered watch has been discontinued but is readily available in the secondary market for around $480

Atmoss SR-01 Everyday Pilots Watch

Based in Brisbane, Australia, Atmoss is a relatively new kid in the vast world of watchmaking, but it is in no wise the least! If you want a sleek pilot’s watch that combines next-level durability with avant-garde technology, this is your best pick. 

What better person to construct a pilot’s watch than a man with a history of flying low-tech planes himself? I’m talking about Warrick Bettany, the man behind Atmoss Watches. The innovator has been pretty busy rolling off some of the best aviation watches that preserve the old-school tradition of getting things done analogically. 

First things first, the case of the Everyday Pilots Watch has a diameter of 41mm, a thickness of 10.5mm, and a lug-to-lug of 48.5mm. The functionality of the watch begins with the two matching logarithmic scales or slide rules — one on the bezel and one on the chapter ring on the outer perimeter of the dial. 

The pure aesthetics of the white dial with blue and red accents add a touch of aviation-inspired romance. Keeping the price of this elegant watch down to $480 is a solid movement; the Japanese Miyota 9039 with a modest 42-hour power reserve. The watch has a water-resistant rating of 100 meters and is worn on a metal bracelet or FKM rubber strap.

Bulova Pilot A-15 (ref. 96A245)

If you’re looking for a graceful aviator’s watch with a timeless design and thick feel, the Pilot A-15 Ref. 96A245 comes highly recommended. On request from the US Army Air Force Air Technical Service Command, the original A-15 was initially designed in 1943 to solve very critical flight-related problems for pilots at the time. Unfortunately, the watch never made it out of the testing phase for some reason or another. 

The project was thus suspended, but 76 years later, Bulova deemed it necessary to release the watch to the general public. The Ref. 96A245 is a reinterpretation of the A-15 “Elapsed Time Watch” and is presented in a 42mm stainless steel case with narrow lugs and three crowns at the 2, 3, and 4 o’clock positions. The crown at 2 rotates the internal bezel measuring elapsed time, while the four o’clock crown controls a second-time zone or elapsed hours.

The dial might seem a bit complex at first glance since it features about four concentric rings, but everything is neatly arranged and harmonious. The watch is powered by the Miyota 82S6 movement with 21 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve. It is worn on a brown leather strap and retails for about $650.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Chrono Quartz (ref. H76522131)

Hamilton is an American watchmaker, now owned by Swatch Group. The brand has been an iconic name in the field of military and aviation-inspired timepieces with a long tradition of delivering quality and precise ‘trench’ watches. In 1994, Hamilton was named the official wristwatch supplier for the American Armed Forces. The former glory the Swiss watchmaker had has been revived in the Khaki Aviation collection today.

Modeled after some of the famous pilot’s chronographs produced by Hamilton for the British Royal Air Force in the 1970s, the Ref. H76522131 is a watch that captures the daring spirit of a pilot like no other. The case is made of stainless steel and has a large notched crown flanked by two pump pushers. 

It measures 41mm across with a thickness of 12.47mm, so it’s a no-nonsense watch that is slightly cumbersome. The dial is clean, uncluttered, and highly legible, with luminous markers and a bi-compax display. It has a water-resistant rating of 100 meters, and the dial is well protected with a sapphire crystal, so you can trust this watch to accompany you on your daily missions. It is powered by a quartz movement and retails for about $750.

Yema Flygraf Pilot M2 (ref. YFLY2020-CAS)

Yema is a French watch brand that is seriously underrated for one simple reason; it does not have the words ‘Swiss Made’ plastered all over the dial of its watches. This is very disheartening as the France-based company has consistently demonstrated remarkable mastery in watchmaking since its founding in the 1940s.

The Flygraf collection turns timekeeping into a worthy expedition for those interested in utilitarian watches for the outdoors. All the models in this collection are designed and constructed by brand and professional aerobatic pilot Sammy Mason.

With a vintage-inspired design arising out of military field watches from the Second World War, the focus is obviously on aviation themes. The Ref. YFLY2020-CAS is a watch with a clear spirit of adventure and comes in a brushed 316L stainless steel case that measures 39mm across. A sapphire crystal protects the matte gray dial, adorned by Arabic numerals and indexes, all treated with Superluminova BGW9. 

The watch is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters, so you can confidently take command of both sky and sea! It retails for about $750 and is powered by the YEMA2000 in-house caliber with a power reserve of 42 hours.

Farer Morgan Pilot Watch

British watch brand Farer was established in 2015 with one simple goal; to make affordable automatic watches for all. If you’re looking for an affordable purpose-driven timepiece befitting a fighter pilot, the Morgan Pilot Watch is just the watch you need. 

Farer might not be a name you hear quite often, but the fast-growing brand is capturing millions of enthusiasts around the globe thanks to its superlative build quality and tried-and-true aesthetics. The aviation-inspired watch comes in a highly polished stainless steel case that measures a fitting 39.5mm in diameter with a height of 12.5mm (including domed sapphire crystal). 

The matte black dial has two rings for speedy reading, with outer minute markings and the hours on the inside. Farer is known for combining bold colors and contrasting textures beautifully. The Pilot Watch has hour/minute alpha-styled hour and minute hands outlined in Royal blue, while the sweeping second hand tip is finished in beacon red.

Encased in a soft-iron Faraday cage is the SW200-1 caliber. It is an anti-magnetic automatic movement that delivers up to eight times the standard level of anti-magnetic protection. The watch is fitted with an over-stitched American Horween leather strap and retails for approximately $990.

Vaer A12 Dirty Dozen

Founded in 2016 by Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook, Vaer is a watch brand that does everything right. The California-based watchmaker has a strong reputation for producing high-quality tool watches with impressive design elements. Dirty Dozen is a group of legendary watches made within the last two years of World War II. 

Twelve watch manufacturers were tasked with supplying these military watches for the British Army hence the name. Vaer decided to pay homage to this military timekeeping icon by releasing this functional, attractive, and utilitarian watch. 

Encased in a sleek 36mm 316L stainless steel case dominated by brushed surfaces, the A12 Dirty Dozen is an everyday utility watch designed to not be too cumbersome or clunky on your wrist. With a tightly sealed case back and large screw-down crown design that maintains an airtight seal, a water resistance rating of 100 meters is guaranteed.

The watch is incredibly slim and comfortable on the wrist, boasting a thickness of about 10 mm. According to the brand, the dial features up to 25 layers of SuperLuminova, with a lume performance rating of 8/10. The watch retails for $899 and is powered by a Swiss-made Sellita SW260-1 automatic movement with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer (ref. H76205530)

Stand by for take-off with Hamilton’s versatile companion. This one is a true pilot’s watch for adventurers and explorers seeking a timepiece with great accuracy.

The Ref. H76205530 draws inspiration from the Model 23, a cutting-edge pocket navigational chronograph pocket watch made for the US Army Air Forces during WWII. The watch is presented in a 38mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 11.4mm and a lug width of 18mm. 

As you’d expect from a military reissue, the dial is ultra-legible numerals with Arabic numerals, cathedral-styled hands, and a railway track outer scale. The face of the watch has a sandpaper-like finish that gives the timepiece a luxurious touch. It is protected by the highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and matched with a calf leather strap. 

On the inside, you’ll find Hamilton’s caliber H-10 with a 3Hz beat rate and a remarkable power reserve of 80 hours. The watch is water resistant up to 100 meters and retails for about $1000.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Day Date Auto (ref. H77785733)

The Khaki Aviation X-Wind (please do not say ‘ex-wind’, it’s pronounced ‘crosswind’) is probably the first drift-angle calculating timepiece. If you’re just a watch enthusiast like me, you’ll probably not care so much about this function. However, the crosswind feature is useful for pilots as it enables them to accurately calculate and record crosswind components with the internal rotating bezel.

The Ref. H77785733 comes in a PVD-coated stainless steel case that has a diameter of 45mm and a thickness of 12.8mm, so yeah, this is not for the faint-hearted. The dial has a lot going on, but there’s a harmonious symmetry interplaying between all the components. Bold Arabic numerals in white generously coated with Super-LumiNova make time reading seamless even in the dark. 

The sword hands and day-date window at 9 o’clock also keep the dial looking pretty cool and balanced. The entire watch has a black glossy appearance and comes with prominent crowns on both sides. The X-Wind Day Date Auto is powered by Hamilton’s caliber H-30 with a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. It retails for $1,335 and is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

Stowa Flieger Classic Sport 43mm

German luxury watchmaker Stowa has been on fire lately. If you’re looking for a watch that can go anywhere and do anything, this is the one. Since 1937, the brand has been producing classic watches in the style of Bauhaus. Flieger or B-Uhren watches were specially designed for German armed forces (the Deutsche Luftwaffe) tasked with air defense.

The watches were designed to be the most legible timepieces on earth while offering top-notch robustness and accuracy at the same time. Luckily for you, a fat wallet or giant’s wrist isn’t a prerequisite to secure the look and feel of a Flieger, as Stowa presents a faithful interpretation of the B-Uhren watches for about $1,500. The sports watch is encased in an excellently finished 43 mm stainless steel case with a height of 12.8 mm. 

With a water resistance of 200 meters, you can confidently take this watch straight from the skies to the oceans. The breathtaking matte black dial is flawlessly executed and decked with temperature-blued steel hands with a generous coating of C3 Super Lumi-Nova. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW215-1 mechanical movement with a power reserve of 42 hours.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono (ref. H76746140)

Hamilton has contributed a great deal to the aviation sector by creating precision watches for professional pilots for over a century. Between 1965 and 1976, the brand manufactured almost 40,000 wristwatches for the British military. When I think of Hamilton, my mind immediately jumps to the robust instruments for professionals, such as the X-Wind timepieces supplied to air racers.

The Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono continues the brand’s history of serving the flying community well and is just the watch you need to keep up with your inexhaustible lust for aeronautical adventure. The stainless steel case measures 44mm across and has a thickness of 14.6mm, so now you can have a look-good watch peeking out from under your dress shirt.

The most notable feature of this watch is the slide rule bezel, also known as the “logarithmic bezel”. This feature was a crucial tool for pilots who needed to perform basic calculations involving multiplications, divisions, exponents, roots, or logarithms.

The Converter bears the spirit of those instrument watches from the 1940s but adds a good dose of futuristic aesthetics, as can be seen in its gorgeous blue dial that evokes visions of clear skies. It retails for $2,300 and comes equipped with the H-21-Si movement with silicone hairsprings for increased performance and accuracy.

Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot GMT (ref. 01 748 7710 4164-07 5 22 14FC)

The Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot was first released during the early decades of aviation, one year before World War ll began. Since the second world war was mostly fought in the air, the demand for pilots’ watches skyrocketed, and Oris, founded about 30 years prior, stepped up to the challenge.

The watch was a flight instrument with a highly legible dial, robust movement with accurate timing, and a large crown of about 8mm to aid operation with gloves on. The Ref. 01 748 7710 4164-07 5 22 14FC bears the iconic design elements that distinguished the first Big Crown Pro Pilot.

It comes in a 45mm case equipped with a screw-down crown (100 meters) and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating inside. The lug width is 22mm, and the watch is matched with a comfortable olive textile strap with stainless steel folding clasp.

The black dial features a GMT function that allows the wearer to track time in two different time zones simultaneously. It also has a subsidiary dial for the seconds at 9 o’clock and large Arabic numerals and hands coated with Superluminova BG W9. A see-through mineral glass caseback reveals the Oris 748 caliber, which is based on the SW 220-1. This automatic movement has 28 jewels, beats at a rate of 28’800 vph, and provides a power reserve of 38 hours. Enjoy this Swiss-made luxury for $2,500.

Sinn 144 St Sa Chronograph (ref. 144.066)

To not include a watch from German watchmaker Sinn would be a sin (sorry too tempting). Not only have pilot watches been part of the Sinn’s repertoire for over five decades, but the brand was also founded in 1961 by flight instructor and pilot Helmut Sinn!

The luxury watchmaker is renowned across the globe for making expert pilot’s watches that can withstand the harshest and most extreme conditions in the skies, on land, and deep in the ocean. It’s not just the day-date display and chronograph function that sets it apart.

This watch is equipped with a unique Ar-Dehumidifying Technology and lubricant-free anchor escapement that enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging. The 41mm x 14.2 stainless steel case is topped with sapphire crystal glass in front and a transparent case back, also made of sapphire crystal.

The killer watch comes with a waterproof and pressure-resistant rating of 200 meters and combines a tachymeter and pulsometer scale instead of a rotatable bezel. A new 144 St Sa Chronograph on a leather or silicone strap costs around $2,400, while one on a stainless steel bracelet demands around $2,600.

Junghans Meister Pilot (ref. 27/3794.00)

Find yourself a more enchanting pilot’s watch; I’ll wait. German brand Junghans has been creating durable mechanical cockpit clocks since the early 20th century. If you are a hardcore adventurist seeking a reliable and elegant pilot’s watch to help you keep your eye on the prize, the Ref. 27/3794.00 is your best bet.

The Meister line is the top dog of the brand’s offerings, and though it was initially lined up with dress watches, the brand decided to ditch the status quo with some welcome additions. Pulling inspiration from control panel instruments that the Junghans manufactured for airplanes and airships in the 1930s, the Ref. 27/3794.00 is a classic mechanical pilot’s watch with a unique twist. 

The watch is accurate, reliable, and extremely functional, with a beautifully sculpted case measuring 43.3mm in diameter and 14.4mm. The stainless steel case is DLC coated with scalloped grooves on the side and a bi-directional turning bezel. The brown-gray lacquered dial is highly legible and is protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides. The watch is powered by the J880.4 movement with 38 hours of power reserve and retails for approximately $2,800.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Auto Chrono (ref. H76786733)

This is a pilot watch that embodies everything precision. It boasts of a legacy that spans over a century and comes in collaboration with Air Zermatt. The watch functions as a wrist-, cockpit-, and table watch. 

Having a touch of exclusivity it is limited to only 1,999 pieces, it features a bi-directional turning flange for convenient countdown recording. The watch comes with a black dial housed within a stainless steel case with PVD black coating with a measurement of 46mm. 

It is powered by an H-31 automatic movement and boasts a 60-hour power reserve. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal ensures durability, while the black calf leather strap is fastened by a pin buckle. The watch is pegged at $3,295.00, as it exemplifies the perfect fusion of functionality and craftsmanship.

TAG Heuer Autavia (ref. WBE5116.FC8266)

This is a vintage-inspired luxury chronograph watch that combines a retro flair with advanced technology, creating a truly remarkable accessory. It comes with a 42mm steel case and a gradient smoked blue dial.

The watch houses the Caliber 5 movement which ensures impeccable accuracy. Its brown calfskin strap pays homage to the brand’s aviation heritage, while the bidirectional turning bezel, made from ceramic, adds a modern touch to the classic design.

The TAG Heuer Autavia has an “orange peel” texture, complemented by Super-LumiNova-treated silver-toned numerals and hands. When you flip the watch over, you’ll see the iconic engraving of an airplane propeller inside a steering wheel. The TAG Heuer Autavia is a complete leather strap timepiece priced at $3,500. The watch is considered the perfect blend of heritage and performance

Longines Avigation Type A-7 (ref. L2.812.4.53.2)

The Longines Company is rooted in the watchmaking tradition. It’s no surprise they crafted the Longines Avigation Type A-7, as a testament to their commitment to excellence. The watch commands instant attention with its seamless elegance.

Measuring 41mm in diameter and 14.10mm in thickness, the stainless steel watch showcases a black dial adorned with silvered polished hands. The timepiece is powered by automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve.

The Ref. L2.812.4.53.2 was designed with great attention to detail such that its brown alligator leather strap with white stitching adds a touch of warmth and refinement. Additionally, it comes with a steel triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism. At $4,570, this charming watch offers you the perfect blend of heritage and technology to command the skies.

Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 (ref. A17315101B1A1)

The Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 is a pretty cool watch that would make an excellent choice for fashion-conscious adventurers.

The Ref. A17315101B1A1 comes in a sleek 41mm case that has been finished to the highest sheen. The dial is enchanting with its luminous-filled hands and Arabic numeral hour markers to ensure easy readability. 

It is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 automatic movement. Additionally, it offers precise timekeeping with a 38-hour power reserve. The watch is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet that has a folding clasp and a safety latch. Expect to shell out approximately $3,150 for a new piece.

Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph (ref. MB117836)

The Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph is a masterpiece pilot’s watch renowned for anyone looking for an enduring companion. The watch demonstrates Montblanc’s commitment to tradition and storytelling.

The Ref. MB117836 has a 42mm case with a satin finish that strikes the right balance between retro and futuristic aesthetics. The black dial has a bi-compass counter at 3 and 9 o’clock, which exudes contemporary allure but also evokes a warm vintage charm.

The watch comes with bi-pushers for seamless activation of the chronograph, while its automatic, self-winding MB 25.11 movement ensures precision. It is water-resistant up to 100 meters and is mounted on a beige leather strap. If you wish to own this timepiece, you should be ready to part away with at least $5,400.

Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT (ref. F4260000)

Fortis is a brand that has a legacy rooted in space exploration. The independent Swiss watchmaker has accompanied astronauts to achieve horological milestones for nearly a century. As early as 1994, the brand was selected to supply precision watches for the Russian space program ROSCOSMOS.

The Ref. F4260000 is crafted for pilots and comes with a titanium case and bracelet, housing a Swiss mechanical movement with a 70-hour power reserve. Its GMT function allows for tracking a second-time zone, while its COSC certification ensures time accuracy. 

The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the markers and handset are lumed to enhance legibility. The watch comes with a 43mm case diameter and is considered a robust timepiece fit for any adventure. 

Get ready to embrace the spirit of exploration with the reliable, durable, and fortified Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT. The watch can be gotten from the brand’s website for $5,507

Longines Spirit Flyback (ref. L3.821.4.53.6) 

This pilot watch is a timepiece that embodies the adventurous spirit of the Longines brand. Boasting a rich heritage of legendary pioneers in their conquest of air, land, and sea, the brand drew inspiration from its remarkable history to birth the Longines Spirit Flyback.

The watch features a 42mm stainless steel case, a bi-directional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The sunray dial is adorned with applied Arabic numerals and PVD bronze-colored hands, all illuminated by Swiss Super-LumiNova. 

A transparent sapphire crystal offers a breathtaking view of the automatic Caliber L791. The movement boasts a monocrystalline silicon balance spring with a power reserve of up to 68 hours. The watch is available for around $4,500.

Bremont Martin-Baker MBII

In collaboration with Martin-Baker, a renowned British aviation company, Bremont flexes its muscles in horological expertise with this exceptional timepiece. The MBII is a symbol of resilience and was designed to withstand rigorous testing, including Live Ejection Testing and Extreme Temperature Endurance.

Its contemporary design features sleek numerals and a bronze-colored ‘military challenge coin’ on the case back, representing camaraderie and service. It is powered by a modified caliber 11 1/2″ BE-36AE automatic chronometer movement that keeps it precise and dependable. 

It features a 43mm hardened stainless steel case that is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. The contemporary dial has a clean look with Super-LumiNova coated indexes and hands that ensure clear visibility. It is further protected by a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal that provides durability. Prices begin at $5,470.

IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

The Mark XX is regarded as a perfect fusion of heritage and innovation. IWC is a renowned luxury watch brand established in 1868 that has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking. The Ref. IW328201 is a testament to the luxury brand’s legacy.

It has a sleek 40mm stainless steel case and a captivating black dial; this watch exudes understated elegance with luminous hands and markers that ensure easy readability in any lighting. The watch is powered by the in-house IWC caliber 3211, a highly accurate and robust movement that boasts an impressive 120-hour power reserve. 

It comes with a black leather strap which adds a touch of versatility, but no, it’s not a dress watch. You can purchase it for $6,050 from the brand’s website. 

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter (ref. BR0394-SW-CE/SRB)

Bell & Ross is a luxury watch brand renowned for its instrument watches designed for professionals. Inspired by aeronautical tools, the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter is a timepiece that seamlessly blends functionality and style.

Limited to just 500 pieces, this watch showcases the power of the chronograph complication in the world of sports. It comes with the iconic “circle within a square” design, just like the emblematic cockpit clocks from the 1930s.

The matte black ceramic case measures 42mm in diameter and is 12.8mm thick, making it perfect for daily use. It has a captivating multicolor dial coupled with a sophisticated chronograph, which provides athletes with vital information during their physical activities.

The watch is crafted with precision and boasts double-weighted hands for optimal readability and two additional dial counters for enhanced functionality. Additionally, its water resistance threshold is up to 100 meters and will set you back $5,800 at the retail store.

Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 (ref. AB01821A1C1X1)

If you’re daring and resilient, the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 by Breitling is for you. Its robust 45mm stainless steel case, striking blue dial, and a choice of stainless steel bracelet or military leather strap qualify this timepiece as a symbol of strength. The watch was designed for adventurers who crave adrenaline. 

Additionally, the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 comes with a rugged bezel and glove-friendly grip pattern on the crown and pushers. It has a self-winding mechanical movement, the Breitling 01 caliber, with a 70-hour power reserve capacity. 

The watch’s chronograph function, luminous numerals, and a water resistance of 300 meters add to its value. It measures 45mm in diameter and 15.7mm in thickness; the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 is the perfect companion for the classic man. This limited edition timepiece can be yours for $7,500 and is considered an investment in both style and adventure.

Zenith Pilot Automatic (ref. 03.4000.3620/21.I001)

ZENITH is reputed for its pursuit of precision and exploration. Little wonder they introduced a timepiece that invites you to soar through the open skies. It comes with a 40mm steel case and an oversized crown, blending the brand’s aviation heritage with a contemporary touch. The black dial is adorned with luminous Arabic numerals and guides you through the dark with clarity. 

The watch comes with interchangeable black Cordura-affect rubber and brown calfskin leather straps, giving you the flexibility to personalize your style effortlessly. The watch is powered by the El Primero 3620 automatic high-frequency manufacture movement with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. The Zenith Pilot Automatic watch is priced at $7,500.

Cartier Santos Large (ref. WSSA0018)

Inspired by aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos Ref.WSSA0018 embodies the spirit of adventure and impeccable craftsmanship. The watch comes with a stainless steel case that measures 39.8 mm in diameter and 9.08 mm in thickness. The Santos showcases a silver-opaline dial adorned with Roman numeral hour markers and sword-shaped hands. 

It is powered by an automatic movement, the caliber 1847 MC, which offers precise timekeeping with 23 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve capacity. The watch has a steel bracelet with the “SmartLink” adjustment system for a personalized fit. The Ref.WSSA0018 also includes an interchangeable calfskin strap. You can indulge in the luxurious lifestyle of those who own a Santos watch by shelling out $9,400.

Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition (ref. AB0910371B1X1)

Behold the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition, a watch that honors its iconic ancestor with an unwavering commitment to detail. Breitling is a brand celebrated globally for its outstanding contribution to the aviation sector. In the 1930s, the Swiss Marque produced an aviator chronograph that helped pilots calculate elapsed time.

The brand here resurrects the essence of the original Navitimer from 1959 with a narrative of historic elegance. When you cop this watch, you get for yourself a 41mm stainless steel case, which mirrors the dimensions of its vintage muse with a height of 12.9mm. An alluring all-black dial reigns supreme with tone-on-tone small second, 30-minute, and 12-hour chronograph counters.

The Ref. 806 1959 is shielded by a gracefully domed Plexiglas and is powered by the COSC-certified hand-wound Breitling Manufacture Caliber B09. The robust movement exudes accuracy and reliability while boasting an impressive 70-hour power reserve. The watch is secured by a sleek black leather strap and is priced at $9,050.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (ref. AB0138211B1A1)

After 70 years of captivating hearts, the Navitimer returns with a touch of modernity. Featuring a sleek profile, a domed crystal, and a lustrous interplay of polished and brushed metal elements, the B01 Chronograph 43 defines the collection’s renewed allure.

The dial shines in a captivating shade of black while the cherished AOPA wings once again grace the 12 o’clock position. It is encased in 43mm stainless steel and is powered by the reliable Breitling B01 movement. This self-winding mechanical wonder boasts a remarkable 70-hour power reserve capacity.

With its bidirectional slide rule, 1/4th-second chronograph, and water resistance of up to 3 bars, the Navitimer is ready for any adventure. You can embrace its legacy and its spirit of flight for $9,700.

IWC Big Pilot 43 Spitfire (ref. IW329701)

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire is a timepiece that combines military heritage with contemporary style. IWC is known for its history of crafting watches for military pilots since the 1930s and has created remarkable watches inspired by its iconic designs.

The Ref. IW329701 comes in a durable titanium case that measures 43mm in diameter and 14.4mm in height. Its sapphire crystal and water resistance of up to 100 meters ensure its resilience. Powered by the Caliber 82100 movement, this watch offers precise timekeeping with a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour. 

The legible dial pays homage to its military roots, while the brown calfskin strap adds a touch of elegance. Embrace the spirit of adventure with the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire for $8,950. 

Rolex Air King (ref. 126900) 

With a 40mm Oystersteel case and a sleek black dial, the Air King Ref. 126900 flawlessly combines aeronautical heritage with modern elegance. The dial features navigational time readings, large numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and the iconic Air-King lettering from the 1950s. 

Crafted with corrosion-resistant Oystersteel, the watch is built to last and features an Oyster bracelet for durability and comfort. Powered by the Manufacture Rolex Caliber 3230, the Air-King provides precise timekeeping with a 70-hour power reserve. 

Its scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and water resistance of up to 100 meters means you can take this beauty straight from the skies to the oceans. The highly legible Chromalight display shines with long-lasting blue luminescence, so this watch can be easily worn in a variety of scenarios. The luxury chronometer-certified watch is priced at $10,130.

Breitling Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 P-51 Mustang (ref. AB04453A1B1A1)

Breitling’s history is intertwined with the world of aviation. The Super AVI P-51 Mustang is inspired by a famed aircraft built by the North American Aviation Department in the 1940s.

The watch features a rugged 46mm case with an oversized crown and knurled bezel for optimal grip, even with gloved hands. Its dial features large Arabic numerals for excellent legibility, while the 24-hour marking on the inner bezel and the red-tipped GMT hand enables effortless tracking of a second-time zone.

Offering an impressive power reserve of 70 hours is the COSC-certified in-house movement, the Caliber B04. It is fitted with a stainless-steel bracelet and retails for $11,100.

IWC Big Pilot (ref. IW501001)

The Big Pilot Ref. IW501001 is a contemporary Illustration of the antique “B-Uhr” used by German pilots during WWII. The luxury watch is crafted in a round, entirely brushed stainless steel case with an oversized onion-shaped crown engraved with the IWC logo at 3′.

The watch’s face has a black metallic sunburst appearance that serves as a high-contrast background for the printing of the Arabic numerals, minutes track, and calendar indication. The mechanical self-winding 52110 movement with 31 jewels offered an impressive 7-day power reserve. 

The watch comes with a black calfskin leather strap and a tang buckle, ensuring both comfort and durability. You can get the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Ref. IW501001 for $10,965 from the brand’s website.

IWC Pilot Timezoner Chronograph (ref. IW395001)

Perfect for frequent fliers, the Timezoner Chronograph Ref. IW395001 pays homage to the early days of aviation when pilots relied on their watches for navigation and timing. With a 45mm stainless steel case and a black embossed leather strap, this watch is perfect for fashion-conscious aviator enthusiasts. 

The black dial features Arabic numeral hour markers and luminescent hands, while the 89760 automatic movement provides reliable precision with a 68-hour power reserve. With functions such as GMT, a second-time zone function, and a date display, this timepiece is tailored to meet the needs of pilots and international travelers. The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and the watch is priced at $11,900.

Blancpain Air Command (ref. AC02-12B40-63B)

Famous for creating one of the most complicated mechanical watches on earth (the Blancpain 1735), Blancpain is a major player in the aviation watch market. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer supplied American military pilots with tactical watches in the 1950s, and the Air Command was an official military aviation watch with the Colombian Air Force.

The legendary aviation watch is reborn in the Ref. AC02-12B40-63B; a watch that ticks all the right boxes. Sophisticated aesthetics? Check. Superlative functionality? Tick. Legendary history and authenticity? Yup. Legibility and military vintage allure? Overdose!

At 42.5 mm x 13. 7 mm, the case of the watch is bulky for sure, but that’s the point. Every adventurer needs an eye-catching watch with a good measure of masculine impact. The dial is clean, uncluttered, and mesmerizing, with a 30-minute counter in a subdial at three o’clock and a 12-hour counter situated at nine o’clock. Expect to pay around $20,000 for a new Air Command Ref. AC02-12B40-63B with a blue leather strap. 

IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503605)

Since the dawn of aviation watches, right up to today, IWC has built a solid collection of some of the best pilot watches in the world. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer influenced the cockpit-instrument look of classic pilot’s watches during the 1930s, at least as far as aesthetics are concerned.

The Big Pilot collection is the brand’s flagship model with a diverse range of exceptional luxury pilot timepieces. The Perpetual Calendar Ref. IW503605 is a fashionable and functional timepiece with a stainless steel case that follows the Big Pilot’s Watch formula. 

It is big at 46.2 x 15.4 mm, so again, we have a big watch that evokes a real appeal and makes you stand out from the crowd. Everything about this watch screams superlative quality. From the deeply knurled and oversized onion-shaped crown to the dark blue metallic sunburst dial, we are sold.

Command the skies with this enchanting pilot’s watch, which will integrate beautifully with business or casual attire and add a transcendent edge to any outfit. The watch is powered by IWC’s in-house caliber 52615 with 7 days or 168 hours of power reserve. It retails for $39,000.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (ref. 82035/000R-9359)

What would a list of the best pilot watches be without the Historiques American 1921? Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, with an uninterrupted history of creating high-end watches since its foundation in 1755.

The Genevan brand created some supremely elegant timepieces for the American market in the 1920s, and the Ref. 82035/000R-9359 follows the spirit of the original very closely. The eccentric watch has a pink gold cushion-shaped case that measures 40 x 40 mm with a crown at the top right corner of the case. 

The striking piece has a diagonal time display with Breguet-style hands and black-painted Arabic numerals that allows you to read the time without needing to turn your wrist. The brass dial is excellently executed with a railway dial train and a small seconds between 3 and 4 o’clock.

Visible through the transparent sapphire glass case back is the prominent Calibre 4400 AS with a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is equipped with a half-matte dark brown alligator strap and retails for approximately $49,000.

Richard Mille RM 39-01 Automatic Winding Flyback Chronograph Aviation

Richard Mille is a brand that takes watchmaking beyond the 21st century with its technical wizardry. Famous for creating some of the world’s most complicated and idiosyncratic timepieces, the Swiss luxury watch company is one of the greatest Haute Horology players in the world. 

The brand is also known to release technically-complicated racing machines for the wrist, so it’s no surprise that the Ref. RM 39-01 displays highly technical and extremely sophisticated features. Designed as a flight navigation instrument, the watch is encased in 50mm of titanium and is mounted on a black rubber strap. 

The skeletonized dial is both stunning and sophisticated and houses different complications. The watch features a flyback chronograph, E6-B slide rule function, GMT/UTC function, and a semi-instantaneous date display below 12 o’clock.

Revealed through the porthole in the back is the grade 5 titanium RMAC2 caliber with its 55 hours of power reserve. At the time of writing this article, the watch is priced at $165,000, so yes, it was made solely for top collectors, but what harm is there in dreaming? 

Patek Philippe Grand Complications Travel Time (ref. 5520P-001)

Founded all the way back in 1839, Patek Philippe is famous for creating some of the most highly coveted watches in the world. The prestigious luxury watchmaker has a history of horological brilliance for almost 200 years with a small (yet significant) contribution to aviation history.

The Ref. 5520P-001 is a decidedly masculine timepiece that reignites the doused flames of the brand’s Pilot range with a superlative technical appeal and elegance. The case of the watch is crafted from platinum, one most precious of the noble metals, and has a diameter of 42.2 mm with a height of 11.57 mm. 

The design of the case seems overwhelming, with a crown at 4 o’clock and three additional pushers, but everything is symmetrical and well-balanced. The watch has a time-zone function that is especially useful in air travel, with a 24-hour alarm mechanism and a hammer that strikes on a classic gong. 

It is powered by the self-winding caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS, a movement comprised of 574 parts. The watch is worn on a matte black calfskin strap and retails for approximately $220,000. 

Conclusion

Pilot watches will always hold a special place in the hearts of professional aviators and aviation enthusiasts alike. 

Not only because they take us back to the fascinating years of the past but also because they are a critical tool in a class of their own that will forever remain relevant.