Author: William Boyd

How wrong most people are to think that a timepiece is only a mass of cold metal with an escapement gear that makes it tick. How very uninformed are many humans to believe that a watch is only a piece of cogwheel, rack, and pinions strapped to the wrist by a strip of leather, rubber, cloth, or metal.

Watch collecting involves acquiring, researching, and appreciating timepieces for their design, craftsmanship, historical significance, or investment potential. Each watch holds a unique narrative, waiting to be discovered and cherished by those who appreciate the beauty of time.

Collectors are the ones who find joy and fulfillment in sharing these stories, ensuring that the art of watchmaking will forever be celebrated. The desire to collect multiple watches might not make much sense, but the art of collecting watches has more to do with our passion, emotions, experiences, and stories.

Welcome to the world of watch collecting, where we enjoy a range of emotional outbursts from joy, anger, surprise, desire, rejection, and hundreds of other states of mind.

How to Start Your Watch Collecting Journey

If you’re a newbie and want to begin this journey, be warned that watch collecting is a horological rabbit hole. Once you’re in its burrow, it is difficult to extricate yourself. This is because the more you acquire watches, the more knowledgeable you get and the more appreciation and satisfaction you derive.

The Horological universe is very enthralling, and by the time you begin to learn the functions of a tourbillon, chronometer, chronograph, etc, you’ll find yourself head over heels in love with watches. That being said, you need a lot of guidance to build a cohesive and meaningful collection. Here’s the best way to start your watch-collecting journey:

1. Learn Basic Watch Terminology.

No, I’m not saying you should take a certified watchmaking course or become a horology wizard. Learning basic watch technology is as simple as knowing the various terms and concepts used to describe different aspects of watches. 

This knowledge helps in building connections within the watch community and would enable you to discuss specific watch features accurately and precisely. 

You’d also gain valuable insights and information. With the basic watch terminologies at your fingertips, you can identify authentic pieces, distinguish between different watch types, and understand the intricacies of watch collecting.

If you’re not sure which watch terminologies you need to learn, here are a few crucial terms to give you a jumpstart:

• Movement: Also known as a caliber, it refers to the mechanism inside a watch that powers its timekeeping functions. The two primary types are mechanical and quartz movements.

• Dial: The face of the watch where the time is displayed. It usually includes hour markers, minute markers, and hands.

• Hands: The indicators on the dial that show the hours, minutes, and seconds. They are typically made of metal and move to indicate the time.

• Crown: A knob on the side of the watch used for winding the timepiece, setting the time, and adjusting other functions.

• Case: The outer shell of the watch that protects the movement and dial.

• Lugs: Projections on the case where the strap or bracelet is attached. They secure the strap or bracelet to the watch.

• Crystal: The transparent cover that protects the dial. Common materials used for watch crystals include mineral glass, synthetic sapphire, and acrylic.

• Bezel: The ring surrounding the dial. It can be stationary or rotatable and may have markings or other functions, such as calculating elapsed time or measuring distances.

• Strap/Bracelet: The band that holds the watch on the wrist. Straps are typically made of materials like leather, rubber, or fabric, while bracelets are made of metal links.

• Complications: Additional functions or features beyond basic timekeeping. Examples include a date display, chronograph (stopwatch), moon phase indicator, and GMT (dual time zone).

• Water Resistance: The ability of a watch to withstand water without damage. It is often measured in meters or ATM (atmospheres) and indicates the watch’s level of water resistance.

• Power Reserve: The amount of time a watch can operate without being wound or receiving additional power. It is especially relevant for mechanical watches.

2. Decide the Type of Watch You Want

There are several factors to consider when deciding the type of watch you want. The watch market is vast and diverse, with numerous brands, models, and variations available:

• Vintage-inspired watch: These watches often draw inspiration from classic timepiece designs and incorporate elements that evoke nostalgia and charm. 

It’s a type of watch that will be a great option for you if you appreciate history and classic designs. Brands like Omega, Rolex, and Longines have iconic vintage models that have stood the test of time and are highly sought after by established collectors.

If you have access to a real vintage watch, which is a timepiece that is old, antique, or typically from a previous era, say at least 20 to 30 years old, it’s also a good place to start.

Vintage watches embody the craftsmanship and technical achievements of a bygone era. They can offer unique and distinctive designs that may not be commonly found in contemporary watches, plus the scarcity and rarity of specific vintage models makes them highly valuable.

• Dress watch: Now, this type of watch is typically understated, elegant, and suitable for formal occasions. To lay hands on some exceptional dress watches, you might want to try brands like Nomos, Tissot, Hamilton, and Junghans. Look for watches with clean dials, slim profiles, and leather straps.

• Sports watch: You could also try this type of watch. If you prefer a more casual or sporty style, brands like Casio, Seiko, and Citizen offer a wide range of sports watches with features like water resistance, chronograph functions, and robust build quality. 

Additionally, you might consider dive watches like the Seiko SKX007 or the Orient Mako II, which are popular entry-level options.

• Swiss luxury watches: If you’re willing to invest in a higher-end timepiece, Swiss luxury brands like Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, and Breitling are highly regarded for their craftsmanship, heritage, and quality. They offer a wide range of models to suit different tastes and styles.

Ultimately, the type of watch you need depends on your personal preferences, budget, and intended use. Consider trying timepieces in person, researching different models, and exploring various brands to find the one that resonates with you the most. 
When choosing your first timepiece, getting a great all-around, versatile, or multi-purpose watch that will excel in various situations and environments is best. These watches typically combine multiple features and functionalities to cater to a wide range of activities and needs, so they’ll perfectly fit your lifestyle.

3. Set Your Budget

Watches come in a wide range of prices, from affordable options to luxury timepieces. By setting a price range you hope to stick with, you can narrow down your choices.

This saves time and energy by eliminating options beyond what you are willing or able to spend. It will help you make a more thoughtful and informed decision to ensure that your purchase aligns with your financial situation, goals, and values.

Apart from preventing overspending on a watch, it helps you resist the temptation to make a hasty decision that could lead to regret later on. It also encourages thoughtful consideration and evaluation of your options and prevents debt and financial strain.

Why Do People Collect Watches?

Once upon a time, in a small town nestled amidst rolling hills, there lived a man named Ben who lived with his grandfather. Together, they would spend hours tinkering with gears and springs, discussing the craftsmanship and precision required to create these engineering marvels. During those precious moments, Ben’s fascination took root and grew into an insatiable love for watches.

Grandpa passed on, but Ben never forgot how he mesmerized him with the ticking rhythm of his pocket watches. As Ben grew older, his fascination with watches intensified. He spent countless hours immersing himself in the intricate world of watchmaking. 

He soon began collecting watches, and each one held a special place in his heart, symbolizing a unique moment in his life or representing a particular era of craftsmanship. One fateful day, while browsing through a market in a bustling city, Ben stumbled upon a small, nondescript stall. There, hidden amidst a jumble of trinkets, lay a tarnished old pocket watch. 

Its worn exterior showed the signs of time, but something about it caught his eye. He picked it up delicately, feeling an inexplicable connection. As he turned the watch in his hands, a flood of emotions washed over Ben. Memories long forgotten resurfaced, transporting him back to his childhood home. 

He remembered the sound of his grandfather’s laughter, the scent of freshly oiled gears, and the warmth of a loving embrace. This watch, he realized, was the one his grandfather had once owned. Unable to contain his excitement, Ben bought the pocket watch without hesitation. He carefully restored it, breathing new life into its faded beauty. 

With each tick and tock, the watch seemed to tell stories of shared moments between grandfather and grandson. As Ben delved deeper into his grandfather’s legacy, he discovered a hidden compartment within the watch. Inside, he found a worn photograph of his grandfather, a handwritten note. 

The note read, “To my dearest grandson, may this pocket watch always bring back memories of our shared love for horology”.

The watch became Ben’s most prized possession, representing the eternal bond that reminded him that love transcends time and that cherished memories can be captured and treasured forever. 

Each day, he would wind the watch, savoring the synchronized rhythm of its ticking, a harmonious symphony that whispered stories of love and passion. Ben’s collection continued to grow, and he found fulfillment in sharing his story, ensuring that the art of watchmaking would forever be celebrated. 

Through his collection, he not only amassed a wealth of horological masterpieces but also touched the lives of those who heard his tale.

People collect watches because they can be seen as tangible pieces of a story. Many collectors are drawn to timepieces that have played a significant role in horological advancements or have connections to important events or individuals. 

These watches serve as a link to the past and evoke a sense of nostalgia. People also collect watches to enjoy the beauty and elegance they bring to their wrists. Collectors appreciate the engineering and technical mastery involved in the making of each timepiece and also collect watches as a form of financial investment.

A Watch Collector vs A Watch Addict

Now I know it may seem absurd, but there’s such a thing as a watch addict. Being a watch collector without becoming a watch addict requires a balanced approach and mindful decision-making. Watch addiction, like any other addiction, can be detrimental to your health, so I’m quickly going to look at the characteristics of each one side by side.

Watch Collector	Watch Addict
Collectors make a deliberate and mindful approach to acquiring a watch.	An addict has an uncontrollable and obsessive desire to acquire watches.
Collectors set specific goals, such as building a diverse collection, focusing on a particular brand or style, or aiming for rare and valuable pieces. All true collectors carefully curate their collection, selecting pieces that align with their collecting goals and personal taste.	Individuals with watch addiction have no goals and may experience a compulsion to constantly buy new watches, often without considering their financial situation or the value of these time-telling devices.
There is more focus on the quality, craftsmanship, and value of watches over accumulating a large number of timepieces.	Watch addicts do not care about the quality. They just make impulsive purchases driven by the thrill of acquiring new watches or being caught up in the hype or trends.
Collectors tend to have a long-term perspective, focusing on the enjoyment and appreciation of their watches over time. They may view their collection as an investment, both financially and emotionally.	For addicts, acquiring watches becomes the primary goal, and the watches themselves may not hold significant personal, financial, or historical value.
Collectors maintain a healthy balance between their passion for watches and other aspects of life.	The majority of addicts struggle to maintain a healthy balance between their watch-collecting passion and other areas of life. Their obsession with watches can dominate their thoughts and actions, impacting relationships, work, and other important aspects of life.
Collectors make conscious decisions about their spending and maintain self-control to avoid impulsive purchases.	Watch addicts sometimes overspend or accumulate debt in pursuit of their obsession. This can have negative consequences on their overall financial well-being.

If you’re struggling with watch addiction, the first step is acknowledging that you have this problem and that it’s causing negative effects in your life. 

Define your goals for reducing or eliminating your watch addiction and pay attention to the situations, emotions, or events that trigger your desire to buy watches. Is it stress, boredom, or the fear of missing out? By identifying these triggers, you can develop strategies to cope with them in healthier ways.

Share your goal with supportive friends or family members who can help you stay accountable. Seek support when needed, and don’t hesitate to reach out for professional help if you feel it’s necessary.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Under $500

Starting your collection with watches below $500 is an excellent way to begin. Since the watches are more budget-friendly, you have the opportunity to acquire multiple timepieces without breaking the bank. This way, you can explore different styles, brands, and complications without a significant financial commitment.

You can expect a wide range of options across various styles, brands, and features.

You may not find luxury or high-end Swiss watches in this price range, but there are still many excellent choices available. Here are the best 5 watches under $500.

1. Seiko 5 Sports SRPE55

Seiko was established in 1881 by Kintarō Hattori. The Japanese watch brand is known for its precision, innovation, and craftsmanship, making it a prominent player in the global watch industry. 

The SRPE55 is a specific model within Seiko’s popular Seiko 5 Sports collection. The watch features a round 40.0 × 11.5mm stainless steel case with a brushed and polished finish, giving it a stylish and versatile look.

This reference has a black dial with a textured pattern, giving it depth and visual interest. The dial features applied hour markers and luminescent hands, ensuring good visibility in low-light conditions. It also includes a day-date window at the 3 o’clock position. It is powered by Seiko’s caliber 4R36, a self-winding mechanical movement, and is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

You can get the SRPE55 for around $250 to $300.

2. Orient Kamasu

Orient is a well-established Japanese brand that was founded in 1950. It offers a diverse range of watch styles, including dress, sports, and diving watches, making it popular among watch enthusiasts and casual consumers alike.

The Kamasu is a popular diver’s watch model within Orient’s lineup that draws inspiration from traditional dive watches while incorporating modern design elements. The watch features a stainless steel case that is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters (660 feet), making it suitable for recreational diving and water activities. 

It features a unidirectional rotating bezel, allowing divers to track elapsed time underwater accurately, a highly legible dial, and automatic movement. For about $300, you can get the Orient Kamasu Blue RA-AA0002L19A.

3. Tissot PRX Quartz

Tissot is a renowned Swiss watch brand that has been producing high-quality timepieces since its establishment in 1853. With a rich heritage spanning over a century and a commitment to innovation, a watch from the Le Locle-based is an excellent place to begin.

The PRX, short for “Precision, Robustness, and X-factor,” is a modern reinterpretation of a classic Tissot design from the 1970s. The beautiful watch combines contemporary elements with a vintage-inspired aesthetic, offering a versatile and stylish timepiece.

The case is 40mm in diameter, providing a balanced and comfortable fit on the wrist. The quartz watch also boasts a water resistance rating of up to 100 meters, adding a practical touch to its design.

For $350, you can get the Tissot PRX Ref. T137.410.11.041.00.

4. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm (ref. H69439931)

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm is a versatile and reliable timepiece suitable for collectors who appreciate military-inspired aesthetics, traditional mechanical movements, and a practical yet stylish design.

The Ref. H69439931 features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 38mm, making it suitable for both men and women. The dial of the watch is black with neutral earth tone minute markers and large Arabic hour numerals.

There are no additional complications such as date or chronograph functions on this timepiece, emphasizing the minimalist approach and utilitarian nature of the watch. It is powered by the exclusive caliber H-50 with an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. It also comes on a NATO strap, further enhancing its military-inspired look and comfort.

The watch has an MSRP of $595, but you can usually find it for about $500 if you shop around. 

5. Lorier Falcon Series III

The Lorier Falcon Series III is a line of mechanical watches produced by Lorier Watches, a microbrand based in the United States. The New York-based brand is owned and operated by husband and wife Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega and is known for creating vintage-inspired timepieces. 

The Falcon Series III is the latest iteration of their Falcon line and features several updates and improvements over its predecessors. The watch draws inspiration from classic sports watches of the 1960s and 1970s but has a sporty edge. It comes in a 36mm stainless steel case which is a versatile size suitable for most wrist sizes. 

The lug-to-lug distance is 44mm ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrist. The dial of the Falcon Series III retains the brand’s signature honeycomb dial, and the hands and hour markers have been coated with luminescent material for excellent low-light visibility. The attention to detail, versatility, and overall build quality are superb.

You can get this amazing, vintage-inspired everyday timepiece for $499.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Under $2000 

Starting your watch collection with watches around $2000 is a great choice because there’s a significant step up in terms of quality and craftsmanship compared to cheaper options. You can expect higher-grade materials, better finishing, and attention to detail in both the case, dial, and movement.

Plus, many renowned watch brands offer entry-level models around the $2000 mark. By starting your collection with timepieces from respected brands, you establish a foundation for your collection and align yourself with the heritage and reputation associated with those brands.

Here are our top picks from this range:

1. Longines Hydroconquest 41 (ref. L3.781.4.96.6)

Did you know that the famous winged hourglass logo from Longines is the world’s oldest trademark? It was internationally registered in 1889 (57 years after the brand was founded) and has remained unchanged for over 130 years now.

The Longines HydroConquest 41 combines the functionality of a dive watch with the refined craftsmanship and heritage of Longines. It offers a versatile and robust timepiece suitable for both everyday wear and outdoor activities, making it a popular choice among watch enthusiasts and collectors.

The timepiece is designed as a diver’s watch and offers a water resistance of up to 300 meters (1,000 feet). This level of water resistance makes it suitable for recreational diving and various water activities. It features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 11.90mm.

The bezel is ceramic, and the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with multiple layers of anti-reflective coating. This reference is powered by the Longines Caliber L888 with 72 hours of power reserve, allowing for extended periods of use without winding.

The watch comes with an MSRP of $1,775.

2. Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date (ref. 01 751 7761 4164-07 3 20 03LC)

Oris is known for its combination of Swiss quality, affordability, diverse collections, independent spirit, and environmental consciousness.

Sized at 41mm, the Pro Pilot Big Date is the perfect balance of dressy and sporty. As its name suggests, one of the notable features of the Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date is its big date complication. 

Positioned at 3 o’clock, the date display on this watch is larger than a standard date window, providing enhanced visibility. The aviation-inspired watch is designed for professional pilots and thus features a large, easy-to-read dial with prominent hour markers and hands for optimal legibility.

The robust stainless steel case features a coin edge pattern on the bezel inspired by a jet engine, and the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal. Under the hood of the watch is the caliber 751 automatic movement with 26 jewels and 38 hours of power reserve.

You can find this amazing Oris watch for $1,900. 

3. NOMOS Glashütte Tangente (ref. 101)

NOMOS Glashütte watches are known for their Bauhaus-inspired design, in-house movements, precision, value for money, and connection to the esteemed Glashütte watchmaking tradition. German watchmaking has a reputation for precision and engineering excellence, and Glashütte upholds this tradition with the Tangente Ref. 101.

The Tangente model is one of the brand’s most iconic and popular designs, making it a sought-after choice for many watch collectors.

The classic watch features a round stainless steel case that has a diameter of 35.0 mm and a height of 6.2 mm. The overall design is characterized by clean lines, simplicity, and functionality leading to a sleek, elegant, very charming, and mesmerizing watch.

The dial of the Tangente Ref. 101 features a minimalist layout, with Arabic numerals juxtaposed with stick hour markers, along with slender hands for hours, minutes, and seconds. The watch is suitable for both formal and casual occasions and is powered by the handcrafted and manually wound Alpha caliber with a power reserve of 43 hours.

The Tangente will run you back about $1,900.

4. Sinn 556 I

Sinn Spezialuhren, commonly known as Sinn, is a renowned German watch manufacturer. The brand is known for producing robust, precise, and functional timepieces that cater to professionals, adventurers, and collectors seeking high-quality watches with exceptional engineering and practical features.

The 556 I is part of Sinn’s 556 series, known for its sleek and minimalist design combined with robust functionality. The watch we have here has a satinized stainless steel case with a diameter of 38.5mm and a thickness of 11mm.  

It is built to be highly durable and waterproof, and pressure-resistant to 200 meters. The design of the glossy black dial emphasizes legibility and simplicity. The Sinn 556 I is equipped with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which offers excellent protection against scratches and impacts.

The watch is powered by an automatic movement, the Swiss Sellita SW200-1, which is one of the most robust and reliable movements you can find.

Depending on where you shop for it, you can get the Sinn 556 I for around $1,500.

5. Doxa Sub 300T Professional (ref. 840.10.351.10)

Doxa watch brand is known for its strong association with diving watches and its commitment to producing timepieces that meet the demands of underwater exploration. The independent Swiss watch manufacturer is renowned for its expertise in creating functional and reliable watches that combine innovative features with avant-garde designs.

The Sub 300T Professional is a renowned dive watch that has gained a significant following among diving enthusiasts and collectors across the globe. Originally introduced in the late 1960s, the iconic timepiece is loved for its robust construction and impressive water resistance rating.

The Ref. 840.10.351.10 features a stainless steel case that measures 42mm in diameter, with a unidirectional rotating bezel for tracking elapsed time underwater. One of the standout features of this watch is its exceptional water resistance rating of 1,200 meters.  

The watch also incorporates a helium escape valve, which allows the release of built-up helium during saturation dives, preventing damage to the watch.

It comes with an MSRP of $1,890 on the beautiful stainless steel bracelet.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Around $5000

Starting a watch collection with watches around $5000 gives you access to a wide range of design options. 

Many renowned watchmakers and luxury brands produce timepieces in this price bracket, ensuring you’re investing in a well-made watch with meticulous attention to detail.

You’ll find timepieces here that can retain their value well and, in some cases, appreciate over time, making them both enjoyable to wear and potentially a good investment.

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001)

Omega is a Swiss luxury watch brand with a long-standing reputation for producing highly accurate timepieces. 

Apart from being at the forefront of horological innovation by introducing numerous technological advancements in the watchmaking industry, the brand has been involved in precision timekeeping since the late 19th century.

The Seamaster collection has been a part of the Omega family since 1948 and has gained significant recognition for its association with the James Bond film franchise. The Diver 300M is a professional diving watch designed for underwater exploration and is water-resistant up to a depth of 300 meters (1000 feet). 

The Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001 features a 42 mm stainless steel case with a blue ceramic bezel and white enamel diving scale. The Master Chronometer-certified watch offers excellent legibility with its wave-patterned dial, inspired by the ocean.

The watch comes with a retail price of $5,900 on the stainless steel bracelet and $5,600 on the matching blue rubber strap.

2. Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

Tudor was founded in 1946 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf as a more accessible alternative to Rolex watches. The brand is known for producing high-quality Swiss watches that offer a blend of craftsmanship, reliability, and outstanding value for money. 

Its diving heritage, connection to Rolex, and attention to design aesthetics have contributed to the brand’s strong reputation in the watch industry. The Black Bay Chrono draws inspiration from Tudor’s vintage diving watches and has a distinct retro-modern appeal.

The watch features a 41mm steel case with a polished and satin finish, which is both robust and waterproof to 200 meters, making it suitable for diving activities.

The bezel is unidirectional and has a tachymeter scale with silver markings for measuring speed. The dial is clean and highly legible with sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock for 45-minute and small seconds counters, respectively.

The Black Bay Chrono can be yours for $5,450.

3.  Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW231

Grand Seiko is a brand that is celebrated globally for its blend of traditional Japanese craftsmanship, cutting-edge technology, precision, and timeless design. It has earned a dedicated following among watch enthusiasts and collectors who appreciate the brand’s commitment to excellence and its pursuit of perfection.

The Elegance SBGW231 is an elegant dress watch with exceptional beauty and refinement. It is one of the best statement pieces you can add to your collection and measures just 37.3mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.6mm.

The watch is clean and sharp with a highly polished case, hands, and indices, showcasing the brand’s signature “Zaratsu” polishing technique. This technique involves using a special tin plate to achieve an incredibly smooth and mirror-like finish, resulting in a captivating interplay of light and shadow.

It is powered by a caliber 9S64, with a power reserve of 72 hours, and you can purchase it for just $4,300 here.

4. Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 43 (ref. A32397101B1X1)

Breitling is a Swiss brand that is globally recognized for its collection of professional and tool watches that are specifically designed for various demanding environments. The Breitling Avenger collection is a range of robust and functional watches that combine a bold design with reliable performance.

The case of Avenger Automatic GMT 43 is made of stainless steel, providing durability and resistance to water and corrosion. It has a diameter of 43mm and a thickness of 12.2 mm. 

It is also equipped with a screw-down crown, ensuring water resistance up to 300 meters. The legible dial has a date display at the 3 o’clock position, and a GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) function allows you to track two timezones simultaneously. 

The additional vivid red hand indicates the time in a different time zone, making it convenient for frequent travelers or individuals who need to communicate across different time zones. It is powered by the caliber TECH-217 with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and comes in at a very solid price of $4,300.

5. IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC (International Watch Company) is a brand that has established itself as a respected luxury watchmaker. Renowned for its pilot’s watches, Swiss craftsmanship, mechanical expertise, timeless design, and notable collaborations, the Swiss brand has been on fire lately.

The IWC Mark collection pays homage to the original design and functionality of the Mark XI while incorporating modern advancements in watchmaking technology. The Ref.IW328201 is inspired by the iconic Mark II pilot’s watch, first introduced in 1948 for the British Royal Air Force.

The case of the watch has classic dimensions with a diameter of 40mm with a slim profile of 10.8mm, a screw-in crown, and a convenient water resistance of 100 meters.

The layout of the dial is superb, with large Arabic numerals, luminescent hands, and a date display at 3 o’clock. It is powered by an IWC-manufactured movement, the 32111 Caliber, with 164 components and an impressive power reserve of 120 hours.

The Mark XX comes with a retail price of $5,250.

10 Tips & Tricks To Help You On Your Watch Collecting Journey

If you have begun your watch-collecting journey, congratulations! Watch collecting can be an exciting and rewarding hobby for many people, and you’re going to enjoy every bit of it. 

However, it is also a complex and intricate hobby. There are numerous watch brands, models, movements, complications, and historical details to consider. 

Here are a few tips and tricks to provide you with valuable knowledge and expertise to make more informed decisions. 

1. Discover Your Style

To discover your style, learn about different watch styles, brands, and designs. Explore watch magazines, websites, forums, and social media platforms dedicated to watches. This will help you familiarize yourself with various options and understand what appeals to you. Determine if you lean towards classic, vintage, sporty, modern, minimalist, or other styles. Don’t forget factors like size, shape, complications, and movement types. 

If you lead an active lifestyle, you might lean towards sports watches or dive watches. If you prefer a more formal or professional appearance, dress watches might be your preference. 

Consider your needs and choose watches that align with your daily life. It helps to get hands-on experience by visiting watch boutiques and authorized dealers or watch exhibitions to try on different timepieces.

2. Research The Market

Market research is essential for watch collectors as it provides valuable insights into the value, investment potential, rarity, and authenticity of different watches. By staying informed, collectors can make educated decisions that enhance their collections and protect their investments.

Additionally, understanding market trends, popularity, and desirability allows you to make choices that align with your collecting goals and preferences. You can also identify reputable sellers, auction houses, and platforms, ensuring you transact with trustworthy sources. 

3. Save Up For Your Grail Watches

A grail watch is a timepiece you’ve been coveting, yearning for, craving, and drooling over all your watch-collecting life. It’s the haute horology timepiece that is exclusive, rare, highly valuable, and often a limited edition from a reputable brand.

Owning one of these watches sets you apart from other collectors and enthusiasts, as it showcases your discerning taste and appreciation for fine craftsmanship. If you choose wisely and purchase a highly sought-after grail watch, it can potentially provide a financial return in the future.

4. Connect With The Community

Engage with other watch enthusiasts and collectors through online forums, social media groups, or local meetups. Share your thoughts, seek advice, and learn from their experiences. The watch community is an excellent source of inspiration and knowledge.

5. Trust Your Instincts

Ultimately, trust your instincts and choose watches you genuinely love and enjoy wearing. Your style should reflect your taste and personality. Don’t get swayed by trends or others’ opinions if they don’t resonate with you.

6. Mix And Match

Don’t be afraid to try out eccentric styles and designs. Watch purists often have strong opinions when it comes to exploring leather, metal, and NATO straps for vintage watches, but never mind them, my friend. Experiment with different straps or bracelets to change the look of a watch and match your outfits or activities.

7. Buy From Reputable Sources

It’s crucial to buy watches from trusted and reputable sellers. Authorized dealers, established retailers, and reputable online platforms are safer options to ensure authenticity and receive reliable customer service. Be cautious of counterfeit watches and sellers offering deals that seem too good to be true.

8. Build Relationships With Experts.

Connect with experts and watch enthusiasts. Attend watch events, join online communities, or visit watch clubs and forums. Engaging in discussions and seeking advice from experienced collectors can help expand your knowledge and understanding of the watch-collecting world.

9. Keep Records And Documentation

Maintain a record of your watch collection, including purchase dates, prices, and any relevant documentation. This will help you track your collection’s value, provenance, and service history. Proper documentation also adds authenticity and enhances the resale value of your watches.

10. Take Care Of Your Watches

Regularly service and maintain your watches to ensure their longevity and accuracy. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals and store them properly when not in use. Avoid exposing them to extreme temperatures, water damage, or unnecessary shocks.

Conclusion

Enjoy the Journey. Collecting watches is a hobby that should bring you joy and satisfaction. Take the time to appreciate the craftsmanship, history, and artistry behind each timepiece. The journey of building your collection can be as rewarding as the watches themselves.

Guess who recently gained a strong following on the back of its astounding value propositions? Orient! Guess which Japanese brand has become the new beloved of watch forums and vintage fanatics? Orient! Guess who’s the new cult Japanese brand that offers extraordinary value? Orient! Orient! Orient!

Orient has stayed too long under the radar. The under-appreciated Japanese giant ticks all the right boxes, and that’s the reason why its timepieces are quickly gaining notoriety among popular luxury watches.

Numerous reasons create an appeal for a watch. For some, it often is the name printed on the dial, which translates to the league, hierarchy, and echelon. For others, it will be all the mechanics, practical details, and seductiveness of flawless symmetry.

With the Orient Sun & Moon, you’re more likely to enjoy all of the latter and a bit of the former for a very affordable price. The distinguished dress watch is an epitome of low-key luxury and pared-down magnificence, with the day and night indicator as its pièce de résistance.

We’re going to explore the Orient Sun & Moon collection and round up five of our favorite watches with a more popular and luxurious moon phase indication.

About The Orient Sun & Moon

Ancient civilizations learned to observe astronomical bodies such as the Sun and Moon gliding across the skies to determine time. The first record of a clock featuring the sun and moon ornamentation goes way back to the late 1600s.

It was a period of diverse experimentation with captivating ways to show the time, so it’s not surprising someone thought about this. While it’s not known who created the first sun and moon watch, the earliest reference is an English-made antique pocket watch by John Trubshaw, with this ornamentation dating from 1695. 

In the 2000s, Orient set out to create striking watches with distinct flavors of Japanese individuality. The Sun and Moon models were released as a modern version of a dress watch. The aim was to make a lasting impression on the viewers, distinguishing the brand from other Japanese competitors in the industry.

First released in 2007, the Orient Sun and Moon is a reliable, budget-friendly watch that brims with poise and class. As the name reads, the timepiece displays either day-light skies with the Sun or starry skies with the Moon. The watch features a built-in date display and a day window, providing added functionality for its wearers.

With its elegant and functional design, it stands as a prime choice for watch enthusiasts seeking well-designed, complex dress watches that deliver both style and performance at an affordable price. 

By deviating from the norm and presenting exceptional features, Orient succeeded in capturing our hearts, allowing us to experience the allure of an elaborate timepiece without compromising our financial comfort.

History of Orient

Orient’s tale begins in 1901 when a visionary named Shogoro Yoshida opened a wholesale shop called “Yoshida Watch Shop” in Ueno, Taito, in Tokyo, Japan. Yoshida swiftly gained success by offering imported pocket watches of unparalleled quality.

Embracing the spirit of entrepreneurship, Yoshida expanded his horizons in 1912 by venturing into producing gold wristwatch cases. This move laid the foundation for his future endeavors and marked the birth of a legacy that would withstand the test of time.

The year 1936 witnessed the establishment of the Hino factory in Tokyo, Japan, becoming the beating heart of Tokyo Tokei Manufacturing’s operations. This facility became a hotbed of innovation and craftsmanship, propelling the company forward for years to come.

However, the turbulent aftermath of World War II brought about economic devastation, leading to Tokyo Tokei Manufacturing’s unfortunate closure in 1949. Yet, like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Yoshida’s spirit and dedication to watchmaking could not be extinguished. 

In 1950, he breathed new life into his wristwatch manufacturing enterprise, rebranding it as Tama Keiki Company, which carried on the legacy at the hallowed Hino factory.

It was in 1951 that Tama Keiki Company underwent a profound transformation, emerging with a new identity, Orient Watch Company, Limited. The release of the first Orient Star that same year elevated the brand to new heights, captivating watch enthusiasts with its elegant design and impeccable precision.

As the years unfolded, Orient Watch Company continued to make its mark on the horological landscape. The brand’s commitment to excellence manifested in remarkable timepieces that captured the imagination of collectors and enthusiasts alike. 

The “Dynamic” in 1956, the “Grand Prix 100” in 1964, the “Fineness” in 1967 (hailed as the world’s thinnest automatic wristwatch with a day and date calendar function for its time), and the “Tenbeat” in 1970 all showcased Orient’s unwavering pursuit of horological mastery. 

In the following years, Orient continued to innovate and released various notable models, including the Orient Multi-Year Calendar, which featured a unique calendar function that displayed the day, date, and month accurately.

The new millennium also ushered in fresh chapters for Orient watches. In 2003, the Orient Technical Center (OTC) was founded and was used as a hub of innovation where timepieces were meticulously assembled. This marked a testament to Orient’s dedication to combining traditional craftsmanship with modern advancements.

In 2004, Orient’s quest for precision reached new heights with the introduction of the high-precision caliber 88700 movements in the Royal Orient watch line. The fusion of artistry and technology continued in 2005 with the launch of the Orient Star Retro-Future collection, captivating watch enthusiasts with its distinctive aesthetic.

As the brand celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2010, Orient Watch Co. commemorated this momentous occasion with a limited edition model, a testament to the enduring legacy and craftsmanship that Orient watches symbolize. 

Throughout its journey, Orient has remained committed to producing timepieces that exemplify the perfect balance between traditional watchmaking techniques and modern innovation.

In 2001, a significant development took place when Seiko Epson, one of the core companies of the esteemed Seiko Group, became the majority shareholder, acquiring 52% of Orient Watch Company. 

This strategic partnership not only brought Orient Watches under the umbrella of a renowned watchmaking conglomerate but also paved the way for further growth and expansion.

Orient Watch Company evolved into a wholly owned subsidiary of Epson in 2009. With the transfer of the business to Epson, the company continues to flourish, drawing on its rich heritage while embracing new opportunities and technologies.

In recent years, Orient has expanded its presence in the global market. The brand has gained recognition for its diverse collection of watches, including dress, sports, and dive watches. Orient continues to focus on in-house movements and offers a wide range of automatic and mechanical timepieces.

Orient Sun and Moon: In-Depth Guide

The Orient Sun and Moon is a watch that is too elegant to be ignored. Its style is undeniably captivating. However, I’ll be the first to admit that the majority of the timepiece here are not for subtlety, but friend, why wouldn’t you want to show off? 

Particularly with such a polished case, texture dial, comfortable strap, and sapphire crystal, allow me to unravel the world of the Sun and Moon series in the following categories.

Case

From yellow and rose gold-plated variants to plain stainless steel and two-tone editions, Orient Sun and Moon watches were crafted for fashion-conscious enthusiasts. The first generation of watches (launched back in 2007), were presented in stainless steel or gold-plated cases with a diameter of 41.5mm without the crown, and a thickness of 13.29mm. 

The subsequent generations go up in size and thickness until the Sun and Moon Contemporary. Apart from the “Petite” models, all the cases have a sporty edge because of their thickness, adding to the versatility of the watch. At the same time, the timepiece is slim enough to slide under a cuff without any issues. 

The cases are completely polished to give the watch an elegant look, and the lugs are rectangular with an interesting ”step-down” design. There’s a moderately-sized push-pull crown at 3 o’clock with the Orient logo on it.

Bezel

From the onset, the Sun and Moon references came with a thin, sleek bezel that allowed for a larger and more prominent display. This feature has not changed to date. If you’re wondering what the heck a bezel is, it’s the narrow border or frame surrounding the display area of a watch.

The slim bezel of the Sun and Moon watch is ideal because it provides a more immersive viewing experience and a modern, elegant aesthetic. By reducing the bezel width, more space is allocated to the actual Sun and Moon display, resulting in a larger, more legible watch face. 

This is particularly advantageous for a decorative watch such as this as it allows for better readability of the Sun and Moon’s interactive elements.

Crystal

Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the current reference of the Sun and Moon series from the front. Sapphire crystal is the second hardest material on Earth, right after diamond, and is considerably harder than other common watches crystal materials like mineral glass or acrylic. 

It is highly valued for its exceptional hardness and scratch resistance, making it highly resistant to everyday wear and tear. It is also more expensive than other traditional watch glass materials and is often reserved for high-end watches.

On the Orient Sun and Moon, the sapphire crystal provides excellent protection to the watch face, preserving its clarity and preventing scratches from occurring. It also offers a level of transparency, allowing for clear visibility of the dial and hands.

Dial & Hands

The specific design elements, colors, and details of the Orient Sun and Moon dial can vary depending on the model and edition.

Orient has introduced various dial variations throughout the years, catering to different tastes and preferences while maintaining the mesmerizing elements that define the series’s character.

Across all the references, what unites each watch is the presence of a day/night indicator. So all the dials display a moon when it is night and a sun to represent the day – hence the name “Sun and Moon.”

Depending on the generation, the sunburst dials come in either white, black, blue, champagne, or gold color, with baton-style, Roman or Arabic hour markers, and dauphine-style or leaf-shaped hands. The hands are always in bold colors, too, like royal blue, gold, silver, or black. 

Movement

Throughout their brief lifespan, the Orient Sun and Moon watches have utilized different movements. From the Orient Caliber 46B46 that powered the first generation of watches to the caliber F6L24 and caliber F6B24 in the Open Heart and Contemporary models, respectively, the brand has shown commitment to improving the line’s appeal.

The upgraded movements hacks, hand-winds, and has a quickset date which the Caliber 46B46 lacked. Apart from these mechanical in-house calibers from Orient, which powers most of the watches, there are also smaller quartz-powered timepieces in the Sun and Moon Petite model with superlative accuracy. 

Strap

Again the Sun and Moon watch offers different strap options depending on the reference and generation. The most common and traditional strap associated with this series is a black or brown embossed leather strap with a push-button buckle deployment clasp. 

Price & Availability

Prices vary and range from about $220 to $550 for a new piece, with more recent versions commanding a higher price tag. Orient Sun and Moon watches are typically available through authorized Orient retailers worldwide. Additionally, Orient operates its boutiques in various cities, and you can explore and purchase their timepieces online. 

However, it’s worth noting that some limited editions or special models may have restricted availability and could be subject to waiting lists or allocation procedures. The Orient Sun and Moon 65th Anniversary Limited Edition, for instance, had a production run of only 3,000 pieces under the Ref. SET0T005Y.

Orient Sun & Moon Generations & Models

Orient is respected as one of the few fully integrated watchmakers from Asia. The brand designs and develops its movements using leading-edge technology. It doesn’t take a genius to figure out just why Orient watches are becoming so enduringly popular. 

They provide exquisite style and meticulous timekeeping and are affordable. Did I mention they are also unfailingly durable? No matter which version of the Orient Sun and Moon watch you choose, you can be sure of superlative quality. 

However, only recent releases combine resplendence with the brand’s demonstrated savoir-faire, as upgrades were necessary to meet today’s standards. The many dress watches of the Sun and Moon series can also make identifying the right one a difficult process. 

With multiple generations, a range of dial colors, and strap options, this guide can help you navigate through the manifold world of the Orient Sun and Moon generations and models.

Orient Sun & Moon Generation 1

Despite a rich history of creating high-quality timepieces under its belt, Orient watches were pretty much unknown until the early 2000s when the brand enjoyed an upsurge. 

The first version or generation of the Orient Sun & Moon is exactly what it seems; the earliest in order. It represents the early simple days of dress watches and is reported to have been launched in 2007.

Orient’s struggle to leave its mark in the Horological world and claim its spot in the ascendancy can be identified in this first generation which bears the undeniable marks of a transitional period. 

The case of the first version is a strong medium-sized piece of stainless steel that measures 41.5mm across and has a thickness of around 13.29mm. Quite similar in look to the current Sun and Moon generations we know now, the round steel case has a thin sloping bezel and a comfortably short lug-to-lug distance.

The case size is the smallest of all the generations but, in my opinion, is the most suitable for an elegant and comfortable dress watch. The undeniable charm of the models in the first generation owes a lot to the dial. 

The look is classic, tastefully designed, and consistent across all the references, with baton-style markers that cut out into the chapter ring. Only this first generation has a rectangular date window cutout at the six o’clock position.

The sub-dials dedicated to the sun and moon and day indications overlap each other obliquely at the upper half of the dial. The layout is classic, clean, and balanced, so the models of this version are perfectly legible. 

You should note, however, that the dial does not contain any luminescent material. If, like me,  you’re not fond of lumed dress watches, this is a plus. The hour markers are thicker than the ones in other generations, and the dauphine-style hands are bulky and come in different bold colors ranging from royal blue, gold, silver, and black, depending on the case and dial. 

The Ref. FETOP001W, for instance, has gold hands to match the dial and case. Powering the models in the first generation is the Caliber 46B46. It is a self-winding movement that does not hack or have a quickset date feature.

Orient Sun & Moon Generation 2

The second generation of the Orient Sun & Moon collection is reported to have been launched in 2012. From this point on, we begin to see a more consistent look which evolved only slightly to give us the contemporary look we know today. Unlike its predecessor, this version features Roman numerals and no bar hour markers anymore.

The sporty edge of the first generation is done away with completely, as the use of Roman numerals on the models here creates a sense of refinement and elegance, harking back to a bygone era. The dial is also presented in a more decorative manner, with intricate typography and embellishments, further enhancing the classic aesthetic.

The date window now lies between 7 and 8 and no longer 6 o’clock, replacing the original position of the signature. Again the looks and specs of the automatic dress watch have changed to fit into the trendy lifestyles of customers who want timepieces that combine refined elegance with superior quality. 

The watch now comes in a 42.5mm stainless steel case, which is water-resistant to 50 meters, and comes on a leather strap (irrespective of which reference you choose). The models also include gold-plated editions with a brown or champagne dial. For instance, the Ref. ET0T001W features a gold-plated case with a white dial.

The case’s thickness has also increased a bit from 13.29mm to 14.1mm and is great for wearers who appreciate the substantial presence and weight of a thicker watch on their wrist. It’s not too thick; it’s just bold with a robust appearance. It’s an excellent watch on the wrist, with good proportions.

For the first time, a reflective blue dial version is made available. The sub-dial arrangement is the same as the first generation, but more texture has been added, enhancing the overall aesthetic allure. 

The hands are now leaf-shaped and not dauphine-style anymore, and the movement has been changed from the Caliber 46B46 to the Orient Caliber 46B40. 

I don’t consider this very much of an ‘upgrade’ since the new movement still doesn’t hack or hand-wind. Yet again, there’s no quick date wheel, so unless you’re a hardcore collector who is passionate about hunting out elusive models, I don’t recommend buying the first or second generation of the Orient Sun and Moon.

Orient Sun & Moon Generation 3

The second generation infiltrated the watch market until half a decade after its release when Orient decided to bring on a different package for the next generation of the Sun and Moon watch. Little tweaks and improvements separate the Orient Sun and Moon generation 3 from generation 2, as the formula is pretty much the same.

Both feature a 42.5mm stainless steel case, use Roman numerals, have a depth rating of 50 meters, and are available in the same color palettes. Some of the models here are also gold-plated for an elegant feel like those of the second generation. For instance, the Ref. RN-AS0004L and Ref. AK00001Y come in a gold-plated stainless steel case.

The main tweak is found in the movement, as watches in the third generation of the Sun and Moon series get their power from the in-house Caliber F6B24. Finally, we get a movement that allows the wearer to hand-wind it for adjustments, and we also get a quick-set function for the date.

The date indicator has maintained its position between 7 and 8, but the Sun and Moon complication has been adjusted to the bottom right. So, the day/night indicator is now at 5 o’clock, while the day display now lies between 9 and 11 o’clock. 

The case is still thicker than you would expect for a dress watch (at 14.1mm), but this provides better protection for the internal components and makes the watch more resistant to shocks and impacts. 

The watches here are unique because this collection has something for everyone. No surprise that it’s a continual best-seller even after new models come on board. It requires an investment of roughly $300. 

Orient Sun & Moon Generation 4

Orient seems to have an ongoing relationship with the Sun & Moon. The commitment to continually improve the fantastic value-for-money dress watches of the Sun and Moon series is commendable.

Generation 4 of the Orient Sun & Moon series is identical to Generation 3 to a great extent, except for the use of Breguet Arabic numerals and not Roman numerals. It is also more enhanced than the first generation and does not use baton indexes at all.

The case is completely satin-brushed, giving the watch a more refined look than its predecessors. The dial texturing has been replaced with a pristine, smooth satin surface that reflects the light beautifully. The blued-steel leaf-shaped minute and hour hands enliven the dial while contrasting beautifully with the background for enhanced legibility.

Tastes and styles have evolved, and Orient demonstrates its style-conscious capabilities by honing the aesthetics of this high-quality dress watch to meet today’s standards. The fourth generation remains an effortlessly chic dress watch that looks absolutely stunning. 

Orient Sun & Moon Open Heart

An open-heart timepiece reveals its inner workings through a small window on the dial. The balance wheel rotates back and forth, driving the hands as it does, so it is visible through this window. Some people are fascinated by the inner workings of a watch and wish to see their timing devices tick. 

Orient has allowed such ones to admire the movement within without sacrificing the aesthetics of the Sun & Moon watch design. The diameter of the polished stainless steel case of this lineup is around 42mm, and the thickness is 14 mm. The open-heart design on the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, making it more resistant to scratches. 

It is called open-heart because the balance wheel serves as the “heart” of the watch, and it takes the place of the day indication, so all that can be seen now is a heart that reveals a bit of the caliber. Owners of this timepiece can look deeper and view the mechanics of the automatic caliber F6L24 which offers hacking and hand-winding options and has a power reserve of 40 hours.

There is a variant with a metal bracelet and black dial, another with yellow-gold elements under the reference number RA-AS0001S and the most elegant option, which features a white dial and black leather strap. If you’ve been wondering just how a mechanical watch works, this piece will help you understand.

 Orient Sun & Moon Contemporary

The Sun & Moon Contemporary was dubbed a re-edition of the first generation. But what it looks like is a sleek package with all of the best features from the first generation to the fifth. So, feel free to call it the amalgamation of the Sun & Moon. 

Like the first generation, the watches here use indices to mark the hours. But, the day/night indicator is not positioned at the upper half of the dial but at 5 o’clock, as seen in Generation 3 and 4. The subdial for the day display takes a fitting position on the top left of the dial’s quadrant between 9 and 11 o’clock. 

There’s a date aperture at 3 o’clock, which is a small neat rectangular cutout that can only display a single numeral. The Ref. RA-AK0301S features a white dial with gold-plated indices, while the Ref. RA-AK0302B and Ref. RA-AK0304B features blue and black dials, respectively.

The stainless steel case of the Sun & Moon Contemporary measures 41.5mm in diameter, making it a bit slimmer than the generations 2, 3, and 4. It is water-resistant to 50 meters and is powered by the Orient Caliber F6B24.

Orient Sun & Moon Petite

The Orient Sun & Moon Petite is the ultimate understated and stylish dress watch to elevate your style around the clock. Labeled and billed as a woman’s watch, I think this Petite model is also perfectly suited for men who have smaller wrists. The regular line is already crowded with timepieces that are too large for many men, so this is a welcome addition.

The case measures 34.8mm in diameter, and the thickness is now 8.7mm. You’d think the entire design of the Sun and Moon package would be condensed into a smaller dial making it crowded; however, the dial is pretty much uncluttered. It flawlessly maintains the symmetrical sub-register layout with the date at 3 o’clock, the sun and moon indication at 6 o’clock, and the day at 9 o’clock. 

None of the indications overlap, and Roman numeral hour markers are featured throughout the references. The 8.7mm thick case size is possible because of the Japanese quartz caliber KUE00 that powers the watch. Each timepiece comes fitted with a comfortable leather strap and a matching deployant clasp.

Should You Buy an Orient Sun & Moon Watch?

I get it. We don’t necessarily need to look at our watches before we discover the status of the sun and the moon. Maybe only a handful of enthusiasts who have some experience with the midnight sun or polar night will find this feature tremendously helpful. 

But if, like me, you’re not in that category and are wondering if you should buy an Orient Sun & Moon watch? Yes, you should, my friend, you definitely should. There are several compelling reasons to consider buying the Orient Sun and Moon watch. 

Here are some key points that make it a popular choice:

• Heritage and Reputation: While Orient may not have the same level of mainstream recognition as some luxury Swiss watch brands, they have a strong following among watch enthusiasts who appreciate the brand’s commitment to quality and affordability. 

In recent years, the Japanese watch manufacturer has been gaining more attention and popularity in the watch community as people recognize the value they offer compared to other brands in the market.

• Diverse Range of Designs: Orient offers a wide variety of watch styles, ranging from classic and elegant to sporty and modern. 

Whether you prefer a traditional mechanical watch or a modern quartz watch, the Sun and Moon series has a model to suit your taste. 

• Affordable Luxury: The watches in the Sun and Moon series offer excellent value for money. While they may not have the same price tags as some luxury Swiss watches with the same offerings, the timepieces here provide exceptional craftsmanship and functionality at a more accessible price point. 

This affordability makes it an attractive option for both watch enthusiasts and casual buyers.

• Automatic in-house calibers: Orient has shown a strong commitment to technological advancements. The brand is among the few watch manufacturers from Japan to manufacture its movements in-house. The movements powering the Sun and Moon timepieces are reliable and affordable.

• Quality Materials and Durability: The Orient Sun and Moon series is home to watches crafted with high-quality materials, including stainless steel, sapphire crystals, and premium leather. 

This attention to materials contributes to the durability and longevity of the timepieces in this line. Every one of them is built to withstand daily wear and offer reliable performance for years to come.

• Masterful styling with intuitive fashion appeal: Apart from the fact that it is so exhilarating to watch the sun and moon circle on your wrist,  the watches in this series represent true elegance.

Orient’s careful attention to detail and their desire to continuously convey a pleasing allure is visible in every generation. The Orient Sun and Moon watch is the ideal accessory for your collection, fitting for use at the office as well as in casual settings.

Alternatives to the Orient Sun & Moon

If you are enthralled by the celestial appeal of the Orient Sun & Moon watch but desire something more luxurious with a real moon phase complication, there are several great options at different price points.

Now this is not to say that the Orient Sun and Moon series is a default option and not to say they are the poor man’s choice. By all means, the Sun and Moon models are not to be seen as watches for the ‘unprosperous’. 

We all know that wearing a timepiece with a rotating disc or sub-dial depicting the moon’s phases can be both elegant and mesmerizing, making the watch a work of art on your wrist.

Moon phase complications have a long history in watchmaking and are considered one of the most romantic and poetic complications. They date back to the 17th century when watchmakers started incorporating them into timepieces.

The moon has captivated humanity for centuries and is associated with various emotions, moods, and cultural symbolism. Its ever-changing phases represent the cyclical nature of life, the passage of time, and even romance. Wearing a moon phase watch can evoke a sense of wonder, nostalgia, and appreciation for the natural world.

That being said, it’s not a bad thing to desire something more luxurious, sophisticated, and absolutely stunning. Let’s delve in.

Oris Artelier Moonphase (ref. 01 781 7729 4031-07 5 21 65FC)

Oris is one of a small handful of Swiss watch brands known globally for its expertly crafted mechanical watches at affordable prices. The Artelier might not be as popular as the Aquis or the hyped Divers Sixty-Five, but the elegance of this reference just goes to show how much we need to start paying attention to the Artelier range.

The Artelier Moonphase has a classical design with a round stainless steel case that measures 40.5mm, which has slim, tapered lugs, as well as a clean bezel. The watch features a moon phase complication, which is a display that shows the current phase of the moon. 

This complication adds a touch of sophistication and romance to the watch, making it a popular choice for those who appreciate traditional watchmaking and celestial aesthetics. The moon phase indication is positioned at 12′, the date at 9′, the day at 3′, and a second timezone display at 6′.

The silver dial features a guilloché-like pattern with rose gold-plated indexes and luminescent hands to match the case. Expect to spend $2,350 for a new piece.

Longines 1832 (ref. L4.826.4.92.2)

Located in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, Longines is famous for creating the very first chronograph movement designed for a wristwatch, the ‘13.33Z’. The 1832 collection features classic and elegant timepieces that embody the brand’s rich heritage and craftsmanship. 

The Ref. L4.826.4.92.2 further reflects the collection’s ethos, showcasing refined aesthetics and reliable performance. “1832” pays homage to the year when Longines was founded in Saint-Imier, Switzerland so this is a very significant timepiece.

The watch clearly has a strong vintage spirit, but its technicalities are contemporary. The finely polished case measures 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 12.30 mm. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has multiple layers of anti-reflective coating on the inner side. 

The beige dial features a moon-phase subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock with a date disc at its border, completing the functionality of the watch. The watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement; the Caliber L899 with a power reserve of up to 72 hours. It retails for $2,812 on the brand’s website.

Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture (ref. FC-705S4S6)

Founded by a group of independent entrepreneurs in 1988, Frederique Constant is a Swiss brand famous for its high-quality classical watches at intimidating prices. The Slimline Moonphase Manufacture combines a classic design, precise mechanical movement, and a functional moon phase complication. 

If you’re looking for a modern dress watch that is a classique amongst the classics, this refined timepiece with an expensive look is just what you need. The Ref. FC-705S4S6 applies the laid down codes of traditional vintage dress watches in combination with contemporary elements. The watch is presented in a smooth and round stainless steel case that measures 42mm across and has a thickness of 11.3mm.

The combination of silver-applied indexes and a discreetly brushed white dial with a sun-ray pattern gives off a rich palette that you can’t fail to notice. Encircling the moon phase indication at 6 o’clock is the date pointed by a small, sleek hand. The watch is powered by the in-house caliber FC-705 and retails for $6,295.

Omega Speedmaster Moonphase (ref. 304.33.44.52.03.001)

Every horological talk about the moon always reminds me of OMEGA. When Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface, Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster ST 105.012 became the first watch ever worn on the moon.

That was the deed that solidified the Speedmaster’s status as one of the greatest watches in history. The Ref. 304.33.44.52.03.001 is one of the best interpretations of a classic moon phase watch that is so spectacularly beautiful it will make your heart skip a beat.

The watch takes the spirit of exploration into untold heights of beauty with its 44.25 mm stainless steel case complemented by a blue ceramic bezel ring with Liquidmetal®. The Liquidmetal alloy is an amorphous metal three times harder than stainless steel.

The enchanting blue dial features highly contrasting luminous markers with a breathtaking moon phase indication at 6 o’clock. The watch is also certified by METAS as a Master Chronometer, thanks to the impressive Caliber 9904 ticking underneath the hood. It retails for approximately $9,000.

Breguet Classique 7787 (ref. 7787BR/12/9V6)

Breguet is the undisputed master of fine watchmaking complications. In case you didn’t know, the Swiss Marque invented the tourbillon. Not only was the brand held in high regard in all the Royal courts of Europe, but it also revolutionized the art of watchmaking. The Classique 7787 Ref. 7787BR/12/9V6 carries on the prestigious history and legacy of Breguet with its classic and timeless design. 

The watch is inspired by the Breguet Nº5, an antique pocket watch with captivating features. Classic features such as the iconic coin-edge case, blue Breguet-style hands, and a fine “grand feu” enamel sets this timepiece way ahead of others in the same caste.

The display of the dial is intentionally unbalanced as Abraham-Louis Breguet (the founder and designer of the Breguet Nº5) intended it to be legible and functional in the best possible way. The watch is encased in a 39mm 18k white gold with a delicately fluted case band and sapphire crystal case back. 

The poetic moon phase indication is placed at 12′, and the watch is powered by the caliber 591DR with a power reserve of 38 hours.

Conclusion

So there you have it, pretty much everything you should know about the Orient Sun & Moon watch. With all of this said, nothing more can be added except the fact that the Orient Sun and Moon series combines high fashion with utility and should be added to your collection. The durability, modest price tag, and unobtrusive and elegant dial make it a perfect budget-friendly dress watch.