Over the past few years, a new trend has emerged in the world of luxury watches – the rising popularity of salmon dial watches. Once considered a niche choice, salmon dials have now become a must-have feature for many luxury watch brands.
This trend is particularly visible in vintage-inspired models, where salmon dials are becoming increasingly common and are often considered a hallmark of high-end luxury timepieces. Salmon dials are characterized by their warm, pinkish-orange hue.
They are often created through a complex process of layering different colors and finishes on a silver base, giving them their unique, multi-dimensional appearance. In addition to their distinctive color, salmon dials are also prized for their ability to change appearance in different lighting conditions, from a soft, muted shade to a bright and vibrant hue.
Historical Review of the Salmon Dial
Salmon dial watches first appeared in the 1920s and 1930s, but it was not until the 1940s and 1950s that they gained widespread popularity. During this time, salmon dials were a standard feature on high-end dress watches and were often paired with gold or rose gold cases.
However, they gradually fell out of favor in the following decades as other styles of dials became more popular. Crafting a salmon dial is a complex process requiring high skill and attention to detail. The dials are typically made from a base of silver that is coated with several layers of color and finish to create the final salmon hue.
The exact process can vary depending on the brand and model, but it often involves a combination of electroplating, painting, and heat treatment. The result is a dial that has a rich, multi-dimensional appearance.
Should You Buy a Salmon Dial Watch?
The decision to purchase a salmon dial watch ultimately depends on personal preference and style. While salmon dials are currently a popular trend in the world of luxury watches, there may be better choices for some.
In terms of style, salmon dials can work well with a variety of outfits and occasions. Their distinctive color can add a touch of personality and character to an otherwise simple or classic watch design. However, it’s worth considering whether a salmon dial will complement your existing wardrobe and personal style.
A salmon dial may clash or draw too much attention if your wardrobe is mostly composed of muted or monochromatic colors. Similarly, there is no specific season or work environment where a salmon dial is more appropriate.
They can be worn year-round and in various settings, including formal occasions, the workplace, and casual settings. However, it’s worth noting that a salmon dial’s warm, orange-pink tone may be better suited to spring and summer when lighter and brighter colors are more prevalent.
The Top 20 Salmon Dial Watches
1. PATEK PHILIPPE PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH 41MM 5270P-001
The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a unique and beautiful timepiece. The 41mm platinum case has a thickness of 12.4mm and is complemented by the distinctive salmon dial, which sets this version apart from the classic silver-tone dial.
The dial features applied hour markers and multiple sub-dials to display the perpetual calendar information, including the day, date, month, and moon phase. The chronograph function is displayed through a sub-dial, allowing the wearer to accurately measure elapsed time.
The watch is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement, caliber CH 29-535 PS, which has a power reserve of up to 65 hours and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The salmon dial, combined with the platinum case, creates a warm and inviting, elegant, and modern aesthetic.
The watch is finished with a black alligator strap and a fold-over clasp, making it the perfect choice for the discerning collector who desires a unique and stylish timepiece.
Price: $211,720
2. AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK JUMBO 39MM 15202BC.OO.1240BC.01
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo with a salmon dial is a magnificent timepiece that embodies luxury and precision. The watch features a 39mm 18-carat white gold case with a thickness of 8.1mm and is housed by the iconic octagonal bezel, secured by eight hexagonal screws.
The white gold hands and markers against the pink gold-toned dial add a touch of cordial and classic. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 2121 movement, which has a power reserve of up to 40 hours. The timepiece is finished with a matching 18-carat white gold bracelet and a fold-over clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist.
Price: $213,215
3. ROLEX AIR-KING 34MM 114200
The Rolex Air-King is simply timeless. The watch features a 34mm stainless steel case and a simple yet elegant salmon dial, accented by applied hour markers and hands in white gold. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 3130 movement, which has a power reserve of up to 48 hours and is protected by a durable Oyster case, making it suitable for everyday wear.
The watch is finished with a stainless-steel bracelet and a fold-over clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist. The Rolex Air-King is an excellent entry-level Rolex. Still, the salmon dial’s uniqueness and recent resurgent popularity set this version apart from the classic models, making it a standout choice for the discerning collector.
Price: $4,450
4. BREITLING PREMIER B25 DATORA 42MM AB2510201K1P1
Breitling is mostly known for their dependability and the pilot functions of their tool watches, but they aren’t always considered trendsetters in the design space, at least in recent decades. This watch might just change that. The B25 Datora is timepiece artwork at its best. The watch is encased in stainless steel with a salmon dial.
The three subdials are all subtly sunken, and the day and date are set back from the main dial. The moon phase calendar is simply majestic. All the details, from the spacing of the text to the syringe hands, exude class. You could be forgiven for mistaking this timepiece for a Patek Phillippe. It’s that lovely.
In typical Breitling fashion, this watch is big, bringing you back down to earth a bit. The case size is 42mm in diameter. It’s 15mm thick and sits high on the wrist. However, if you’re used to Patek pricing, the cost of this timepiece will put a smile back on your face.
The caliber B25 movement offers a 48-hour power reserve and includes the features of time, chronograph, calendar, and moon graph. All this is paired with a brown alligator leather strap.
Price: $13,500
5. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 31MM 77080
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31mm 77080, with the salmon dial, is a highly sophisticated and elegant timepiece. The watch is powered by a self-winding automatic and is water resistant up to 100 meters, which means it is suitable for swimming and snorkeling but not deep-sea diving. The watch is encased in stainless steel, and the case size is 31mm. It features a salmon-colored dial with silver-tone hands and indexes.
The Rolex 77080 features a stainless-steel Oyster bracelet with an Oysterclasp, which provides a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet also features an Easylink comfort extension link that allows you to adjust the size of the bracelet without the need for tools, making it easy to get the perfect fit.
Price: $2,300
6. BREGUET TYPE XX-XXI-XXII 39MM 3820
The Breguet Type XX-XXI-XXII Transatlantique is a sophisticated and elegant timepiece designed and crafted by the luxury Swiss watchmaker Breguet. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a rotating bezel and a salmon-colored dial, which gives the watch a unique and stylish look.
The watch is powered by the caliber 582, based on a Lemania 1350. It features a flyback chronograph function, allowing the wearer to time multiple events without the need to stop and reset the chronograph.
The Breguet Type XX-XXI-XXII Transatlantiquel also has a date display at the 6 o’clock position and is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The watch comes with a brown leather strap and a steel folding clasp, providing a secure and comfortable fit.
Price: $16,545
7. ROLEX DATEJUST SALMON ROMAN DIAL 36MM 16220
The salmon color dial with roman numeral hour markers adds a touch of uniqueness and sophistication to the watch, making it stand out from other models in the Datejust line. The dial also features a date display at the 3 o’clock position with a cyclops lens, which magnifies the date for easy reading.
The DateJust 16220 features a 36mm stainless steel case with a smooth bezel, which gives it a sleek and elegant appearance.
The 1315 automatic in-house movement features a 42-hour power reserve. As is standard on most Rolex’s, the timepiece includes a waterproof screw-down crown and is water resistant up to 100 meters.
The watch comes with a stainless-steel Jubilee bracelet with a folding clasp, which provides a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet features a polished center link and brushed outer links, which gives it a sophisticated and refined look.
Price: $3,200
8. A. LANGE & SÖHNE DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON 41.5MM 740.056
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is a highly sophisticated and elegant timepiece designed by the renowned German watchmaker. The watch features a platinum case and a stunning salmon-colored dial.
The dial features a combination of Arabic numerals, baton-style hour markers, and luminescent hands. It also has subdials for the chronograph function, perpetual calendar, and moon phase indicator, which displays the current phase of the moon.
The perpetual calendar is accurate until 2100 and includes day, date, month, leap year, and day/night indicators. The case size is 41.55mm. The watch is powered by a highly complex and accurate movement, the caliber L952.2, which features a tourbillon and a flyback chronograph function.
The tourbillon is visible through the sapphire crystal case back and serves to improve the accuracy of the watch by compensating for the effects of gravity on the movement. The Perpetual Tourbillon is a limited-edition timepiece, with only 100 pieces produced worldwide.
The watch comes with a dark brown alligator leather strap with a platinum deployant buckle, providing a secure and comfortable fit. This timepiece is a masterpiece of watchmaking and is a highly desirable and sought-after timepiece, perfect for collectors and watch enthusiasts who appreciate the finest in horological craftsmanship.
Price: $278,800
9. PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL CALENDAR 39MM 5450P-001
The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar is a stunning and sophisticated timepiece. This watch is housed in a platinum case, measuring 39mm in diameter, and features a beautiful salmon-colored dial that adds a touch of elegance to the overall design.
The watch features a perpetual calendar complication that displays the day, date, and month and requires adjustment only once a year in February. It also has a moon phase display that shows the current phase of the moon. The dial features applied white gold hour markers and dauphine-style hands.
This model is powered by an automatic movement, the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303, which is one of Patek Philippe’s most accurate and reliable movements. The movement has a power reserve of approximately 45 hours and features a 21k gold rotor that provides efficient winding.
The watch also features a sapphire crystal case back, which allows the wearer to admire the exquisite finishing of the movement. The platinum case is water-resistant up to 30 meters, providing ample protection from the elements.
Price: $81,250
10. GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL PANOMATICLUNAR 40MM 1-90-02-12-32-30
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar offers a unique and elegant design. The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case and a salmon-colored dial that gives it a distinctive and eye-catching appearance.
The dial features a classic Panorama Date display, along with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a moon phase display at 2 o’clock. The moon phase display is particularly impressive, featuring a beautiful golden moon and stars set against a deep blue background, adding an element of romance and mystery to the design.
The watch is powered by a caliber 90-02 automatic movement visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The movement features a 42-hour power reserve and is beautifully decorated with Glashütte Original’s signature three-quarter plate, a swan-neck regulator, and a hand-engraved balance cock.
The dial is completed with a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap, which complements the color scheme of the watch perfectly. The strap is secured with a stainless-steel folding clasp, providing a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist.
Price: $10,409 (Priced at the exchange rate at the time of this article.
11. MONTBLANC HERITAGE 40MM MB119944
The case of the Montblanc Heritage measures 40mm in diameter and is made from stainless steel. The case is both polished and brushed, giving it a refined and modern look. The watch’s bezel is also made from stainless steel and is fixed.
The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, the MB 24.27, with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The sophisticated salmon dial of the Montblanc Heritage is adorned with anthracite-colored Arabic numerals markers and luminous hands.
Price: $2,435
12. NOMOS GLASHÜTTE TANGENTE RED DOT 164.S10
This limited-edition watch is a celebration of the Red Dot Design Award that NOMOS won in 2018, and it is sure to turn heads with its unique salmon dial.
The case of the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Red Dot 2018 measures 37.5mm in diameter and is made from stainless steel. The case is polished to a high shine, giving it a luxurious appearance.
The watch is powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement, the NOMOS Alpha. The movement is visible through the exhibition case back and features a Glashütte three-quarter plate and blued screws, adding to the watch’s elegant and sophisticated aesthetic.
The salmon dial of the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Red Dot is the star of the show, with its vibrant color and clean, minimalist design. The dial features silver-tone hour markers and hands, which are slim and elegant, providing excellent visibility even in low-light conditions.
The dial includes a small seconds sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position, adding a practical element to the watch.
This model is finished with a brown Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather strap, which is both comfortable and stylish. The strap is secured with a stainless steel tang buckle, ensuring the watch stays securely on the wrist.
Price: $2,340
13. VARIO ECLIPSE SUNSTONE 38MM
The Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch is a unique and stylish timepiece combining classic design and modern flair. The watch features a 38mm stainless steel case polished to a high shine, providing a luxurious appearance. The case has a thickness of 7mm.
The standout feature of the Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch is its dial, and convex salmon color sunburst, which gives the watch a beautiful and distinctive appearance. The sunstone dial is a warm shade of orange and has a captivating shimmer, which changes depending on the angle of the light.
The dial is complemented by gold-tone hour markers and hands. The watch is powered by a Seiko VH31 mechaquartz movement. The Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch comes with a brown leather strap, which is both stylish and comfortable.
Price: $218
14. SINN 356 SA PILOT II 38.5MM 356072
The Sinn 356 case has a satin finish, which gives it a sleek and sophisticated appearance. It’s made from stainless steel and measures 38.5mm in diameter, which is ideal for both men and women. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters.
The dial of the Sinn 356 Sa Pilot II is a warm shade of salmon and features silver-tone hour markers and hands, which are coated with luminescent material. The dial also includes a day and date display at the 3 o’clock position, which adds to the watch’s practicality.
The watch is powered by the Swiss-made Sellita SW-300-1 automatic movement. The movement is visible through the exhibition case back, showcasing the watch’s intricate inner workings. Paired with a handsome brown leather strap or a stainless-steel bracelet.
Price: $2,695
15. ALPINA STARTIMER PILOT HERITAGE GMT 42MM AL-555RGS4H6
The Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT is handsomely styled with a retro ‘70s look and is paired perfectly with a salmon dial, which features an eye-catching metallic sheen. The case is made from stainless steel and measures 42mm in diameter, which is an ideal size for most men’s wrists. The case has a brushed and polished finish, which gives it a classy appearance.
The date is displayed at the 3 o’clock position. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The Alpina Startimer Pilot is powered by the Swiss-made AL-555 automatic movement. The watch is finished with a brown leather strap with contrasting white stitching.
Price: $1,395
16. MONTBLANC HERITAGE PULSOGRAPH 40MM 119914
This timepiece has a charming, old-fashioned quality to the design. The Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph features a salmon dial with a sunburst finish. The hour markers and hands are black, which complements the warm tones of the salmon. The watch has a pulsometer function, which allows the wearer to measure their heart rate by counting the number of heartbeats in a set amount of time.
The pulsometer scale is printed in black on the outer edge of the dial and is used in conjunction with the chronograph function to measure the heart rate. The case of the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40mm.
The case has a polished finish and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch is powered by the Montblanc Caliber MB M13.21, a hand-wound movement that has a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The watch is completed with a black leather strap with a stainless-steel buckle.
Price: $30,700
17. CARTIER BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER 33MM WSBB0046
Cartier is a French luxury goods brand founded in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier. While the company initially focused on jewelry and other luxury items, it was in the early 20th century that Cartier began producing watches.
Since then, Cartier has become one of the world’s most iconic watch brands, known for its distinctive designs, high-quality craftsmanship, and technical innovations. This timepiece is classy and distinctive.
The salmon dial with its soft circular pattern, silver roman numerals, sharp blue hands with black lettering, and its highly polished case and fluted crown is a fine work of art.
The case size is 33mm, and the thickness is 10.16 mm. It features an automatic movement and is paired with a brushed stainless steel bracelet.
Price: $5,850
18. NOMOS GLASHÜTTE TETRA DIVINE SPARK 444 29.5MM
The rectangular, salmon dial of the Tetra Divine Spark has a beautiful sunburst finish, which gives it a subtle shimmer in different lighting conditions. The dial is also adorned with a small seconds sub-dial, positioned at the 6 o’clock position. The sub-dial is framed by a polished steel ring, adding elegance to the overall design.
The case of the Tetra Divine Spark is made of polished stainless steel and measures 29.5mm x 29.5mm. The watch has sapphire crystal glass curved on both sides, giving it a unique and distinctive look. The Tetra Divine Spark is powered by the NOMOS Alpha movement, a highly regarded and precise manual-wind movement that has a power reserve of up to 43 hours.
The movement is handcrafted in-house by NOMOS Glashütte, a German watchmaker that is known for its dedication to quality and precision. The timepiece is paired with a velour gray leather strap with a pin buckle.
Price: $2,320
19. MONTBLANC HERITAGE GMT 40MM MB119950
The Montblanc Heritage GMT is a beautiful timepiece that features a unique salmon dial. The watch is part of the Montblanc Heritage collection, known for its vintage-inspired design elements and high-quality craftsmanship.
The salmon dial is characterized by its sunburst finish. The dial is also adorned with a polished domed dial with applied Arabic numerals, dots as indexes, and a domed sapphire crystal.
The case is made of stainless steel and measures 40mm in diameter. The case has a polished finish and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch also features a bi-directional rotating bezel that is engraved with a 24-hour scale, allowing the wearer to easily track a second time zone.
The timepiece is powered by the Montblanc caliber MB 24.05, an automatic movement that has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
Price: $3,006
20. FEARS BRUNSWICK SALMON DIAL 38MM (Individually numbered)
Fears is a British watch brand that was established in 1903 by a watchmaker named Aaron Lufkin Dennison. The brand was originally called “Dennison Watch Case Company” and was primarily known for producing high-quality watch cases.
In the 1920s, the company began producing complete watches under the Fears brand name. The timepieces were known for their precision and durability and were popular among military and professional users.
The brand became especially famous for its military watches, which were used by the British military during World War II. The Brunswick’s copper salmon dial is a nod to vintage designs from the ‘40s and ‘50s and was created with 18c gold and copper and finished with a brushed look.
The skeletonized hands look blue in some lights and black in others. There’s also a sunken sub-seconds dial at the 6 o’clock position. The timepiece is encased in 316L steel, and the case size is 38mm. It’s powered by an ETA 7001 automatic movement.
Price: $3,000
PARTING THOUGHTS
Luxury salmon dial watches have become a popular trend in the world of luxury watches thanks to their distinctive and unique appearance. The warm and inviting tone of a salmon dial is a refreshing change from traditional black and white dials, making them a perfect addition to any watch enthusiast’s collection. The history and craftsmanship behind these watches are a testament to the dedication and attention to detail that goes into their creation.
While the decision to purchase a salmon dial watch comes down to personal preference and style, these watches offer a level of character and distinction unmatched by other styles. As the popularity of these watches continues to rise, it’s clear that salmon dial watches are here to stay, making them an excellent investment for collectors and enthusiasts alike.