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Author: William Boyd

William has been collecting and exploring luxury watches ever since he was 19. He discovered his passion for timepieces when he received a vintage rolex submariner as a gift from his father on his 18th birthday! And there has been no looking back ever since!
best luxury watches

20 Best Luxury Watches

William Boyd

April 8, 2025

Do we need luxury watches? At first, the answer might seem like no. After all, we can just use our phones to check the time or date. We could even get a smartwatch with way more features than a regular luxury watch. 

So, why do we need luxury watches? It’s about the feeling we get when we look at our wrist and think, “Wow, that’s a really nice watch.” That kind of emotion doesn’t come from glancing at a phone or a computer screen. Luxury watches can be a part of who we are—an extension of our style and a way to show what we like.

History of Luxury Watches 

Clocks have been around since the times of the Egyptians, Romans, and Greeks. Beginning with clock towers, people eventually wanted to carry timepieces with them as they traveled. This led to the rise of the pocket watch. However, with the Industrial Revolution came a demand for more precise timekeeping. 

During the world wars, watches became even more essential, and over time, pocket watches faded from common use. Luxury watches were part of this evolution and soon became the preferred choice for celebrities and a symbol of celebrating life’s milestones.

Top 20 Best Luxury Watches

Here’s a list of the top luxury watches you can get today.

Rolex Submariner (ref. 124060)

Rolex Submariner (ref. 124060)

Arguably the most recognizable watch from the most iconic watch brand, the Rolex Submariner starts this list with a bang—specifically, reference 124060, the current no-date model of the Submariner lineup. The watch features a 41mm case and is often praised for its clean, symmetrical design, making it a favorite among enthusiasts. 

Many consider the no-date variant the most aesthetically balanced option. Despite its size, the watch wears comfortably, even on smaller wrists, and is priced at an MSRP of $9,200. With 300 meters of water resistance, the Submariner easily qualifies as a GADA (go anywhere, do anything) watch. The Glidelock clasp allows for quick and precise adjustments, making it convenient to wear in various settings. 

Whether paired with casual jeans and a T-shirt or dressed up with a suit and tie, the Submariner effortlessly complements any outfit. Powered by the Rolex 3230 movement, this watch boasts a 70-hour power reserve. 

Patek Philippe Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G)

Patek Philippe Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G)

One of Patek Philippe’s most iconic watches is its Nautilus line, and the 5811 is a standout example. This white gold model features a time-and-date function, offering both elegance and practicality. Despite its 41mm diameter, the watch wears comfortably due to its slim 8.2mm thickness. 

It also boasts a respectable 40-hour power reserve. At its heart is Patek’s 26-330 movement, a masterpiece of engineering that can be admired through the open case back. The Nautilus 5811 comes with an integrated bracelet, which enhances its sleek design but can make swapping out the bracelet slightly more challenging compared to other watches. 

However, the attention to detail in every aspect of this timepiece leaves little to be desired. With an MSRP of $72,230, this watch represents the pinnacle of high horology—a timeless piece built to last for generations.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (ref. 15510ST.OO.1320ST.08)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (ref. 15510ST.OO.1320ST.08)

We often hear rappers mentioning their APs or boasting about the number of baguette diamonds in their watches. The reference 15510ST.OO.1320ST.08 might be a mouthful to say, but it’s better known as the AP Royal Oak with a silver dial. 

Priced at an MSRP of $28,600, this watch measures 41mm and is one of the cleanest designs in the Royal Oak lineup. While there are several variations of this model, this version stands out for its simplicity and elegance. The watch is powered by the AP Calibre 4302, featuring a time and date function. 

At first glance, it might appear to have a standard silver dial. However, a closer look reveals the intricate Grande Tapisserie pattern—a signature texture that adds depth and unmistakable AP character to the design.

Vacheron Constantin Fifty Six Self-Winding 40mm Pink Gold (ref. 4600E/000R-H101)

Vacheron Constantin Fifty Six Self-Winding 40mm Pink Gold (ref. 4600E/000R-H101)

For people like me, looking at a watch like this instantly sparks the thought, “Wow, that is a good-looking watch.” The design of the Vacheron Constantin Fifty Six is simple yet utterly mesmerizing. Inside, the watch houses the Caliber 1326, with a case measuring 40mm in diameter and a slim 9.6mm thickness. 

The standout feature is its stunning black sector dial, complete with a date window at 3 o’clock. Although the case is called pink gold, it has more of a warm gold tone that doesn’t come across as overly pink when worn. 

The watch is paired with a black leather strap, making it perfect for black-tie events. However, its versatility means it could just as easily be worn with jeans and a T-shirt. Flip it over, and the transparent case back invites you to linger and admire the intricate movement within. All of this is available for an MSRP of $25,500—a timeless piece that bridges elegance and versatility.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (ref. 191.062)

When buying this watch, you might want to invest in a camera, too—you’ll be taking plenty of photos of it. With a wearable 38.5mm case and a slim 10mm thickness, this timepiece, crafted in platinum, is both elegant and understated. 

Collectors often talk about paying the “back tax,” referring to pictures of the case back, and for good reason. The movements by A. Lange & Söhne are renowned for their beauty, and this watch is no exception.

Despite being manually wound, the craftsmanship visible through the case back is a work of art in itself. On the front, you’re greeted by a stunning onyx dial featuring time, date, and power reserve functions. 

The watch is paired with a black alligator strap, adding to its sophistication, and offers a water resistance of 30 meters. Limited to just 300 pieces, this watch is as rare as it is exquisite. With an MSRP of $57,400, it’s a true masterpiece—and in my opinion, worth every penny.

Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon Black Titanium on Strap

Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon Black Titanium on Strap

Jacob & Co. is renowned for creating some of the most unique and seemingly impossible timepieces, and the Bugatti Tourbillon Black Titanium is no exception. Drawing clear inspiration from Bugatti, this watch is a marvel of design and engineering. 

At first glance, the watch’s three dials immediately catch your attention. The far-right dial resembles a gas gauge, adding a playful automotive touch.

Meanwhile, a V16 engine animation sits next to a 30-second flying tourbillon, perfectly echoing the power and precision of a Bugatti supercar. The central dial displays the time in a dynamic way, designed to mimic the sensation of accelerating from 0 to 60, just like pressing the gas pedal. 

While this watch may not appeal to everyone, it stands as one of the most impressive collaborations between a watchmaker and an automotive brand. Despite its complexity, the case remains surprisingly wearable at 52mm—a bold but fitting size for such a statement piece. 

This extraordinary timepiece can be yours for an MSRP of $340,000 —a true celebration of luxury, innovation, and automotive excellence.

Richard Mille RM 65-01

Richard Mille RM 65-01

Every time you glance at this watch, you’re bound to notice something new you haven’t seen before. The Richard Mille RM 65-01 features a skeletonized dial, allowing you to fully appreciate the craftsmanship and complexity you’re paying for. 

As a split-second chronograph, this watch lets you time two different events simultaneously. It also boasts a specially designed rotor that efficiently winds the watch during any activity. The level of innovation in this timepiece is unparalleled within its segment. 

Designed with sports and performance in mind, the RM 65-01 is perfect for those who lead an active lifestyle. It also houses Richard Mille’s most complex movement to date, making it a true marvel of engineering. For the blue quartz version, this exceptional watch comes with an MSRP of $380,000—a testament to cutting-edge design and performance.

Cartier Santos Medium (ref. WSSA0029)

Cartier Santos Medium (ref. WSSA0029)

The Cartier Santos Medium has taken the watch world by storm, and I’ve seen it on more wrists than some of the popular Rolex models lately. With a 35mm case, it wears comfortably, especially for those with smaller to medium wrist sizes. 

The watch also offers a practical water resistance of 100 meters. While the high-polished bezel around the dial has earned the Santos a reputation as a scratch magnet, don’t let that discourage you—it remains one of the most elegant watches available. The model comes in a variety of dial and case materials, but the classic white dial in stainless steel is priced at an MSRP of $7,050. 

For those with larger wrists, there’s a larger Santos model available, which also includes a date function. One standout feature across the lineup is the integrated quick strap-change system, allowing you to easily switch between the steel bracelet and the leather strap provided by Cartier.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch (ref. IW329303)

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch (ref. IW329303)

One of IWC’s iconic timepieces, the Big Pilot, is available with a stunning blue dial and an EasX-change strap system for easy swapping between straps. With a 43mm case and a blue leather strap, this watch wears on the larger side but remains comfortable and stylish. 

The Big Pilot offers everything you need in an everyday watch, including 100-meter water resistance, a 60-hour power reserve, and a transparent case back showcasing the IWC 82100 in-house movement. While it comes with several strap options, the blue leather strap makes that blue dial pop. 

For a period, I was focused on adding blue dial watches to my collection, and this one made the list, especially with an MSRP of $8,700. It’s a versatile watch that’s easy to wear in any situation. The dial is highly legible, and the glass is secured to withstand pressure changes, making it both practical and attractive.

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)

The Omega Speedmaster comes in many variations, but the classic design with the black dial and the new 3861 movement remains the most popular. This is a hand-wound watch, and I once read that as you wind it, you should reflect on how you’ll be intentional with your time. 

Priced at an MSRP of $8,000, the Speedmaster features sapphire crystals on both the front and back, giving you a clear view of its intricate design. One standout feature is Omega’s new bracelet, which is a true “chef’s kiss”—its tapered design to 15mm and the on-the-fly adjustment, known as the “comfort setting,” make it a joy to wear. 

The case measures 40mm but wears smaller than expected, with a thickness of 13.2mm. This versatile watch can be paired with a variety of straps, giving you the feeling of owning a new watch each time you switch them out.

Tudor Black Bay (ref. M7941A1A0RU-0003)

Tudor Black Bay (ref. M7941A1A0RU-0003)

Before diving into the details of the watch itself, let’s take a moment to appreciate the bracelet. Tudor has stepped up their game with this one, creating a bracelet that not only looks fantastic but feels great on the wrist. 

This particular version of the Black Bay features a striking red bezel and comes in at 41mm, with an MSRP of $4,700. With the recent refresh, Tudor has introduced a new METAS-certified movement, meaning the watch is not only highly accurate but has also passed rigorous testing to ensure top-notch performance. 

The combination of the red bezel, black dial, beautiful bracelet, and new movement makes this a home run for Tudor. Additionally, the T-fit clasp allows for quick, on-the-fly adjustments, perfect for various activities, all while maintaining a solid 70-hour power reserve.

Grand Seiko Sport Lion’s Mane SBGE307

Grand Seiko Sport Lion's Mane SBGE307

Grand Seiko is renowned for its stunning dials and intricate movements, particularly the Spring Drive. The Lion’s Mane, with its striking dial, is sure to spark conversations wherever you go. 

With a case size of 44.5mm, this watch is on the larger side, but that extra size allows for a better view of the dial’s exquisite details, highlighted by the sweeping hand of the Spring Drive movement. Additionally, it features a GMT hand for those who need to keep track of multiple time zones. The watch offers a solid 200-meter water resistance, making it versatile for a variety of activities. 

Priced at an MSRP of $11,000, it’s not only visually captivating but also comes with a 72-hour power reserve and one of the most accurate movements available. It’s easy to see why this timepiece is a true showstopper.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Hublot Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

If your favorite color is green or you’re in the market for a bold statement watch, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Green Saxem might be the perfect choice. This timepiece lets everyone know just how much you love the color green. 

The watch comes in at a wearable 42mm and houses the Hublot Unico movement, which consists of 354 intricate parts. Despite the complexity, it achieves an impressive 72-hour power reserve and offers 50 meters of water resistance. 

The case is crafted from Saxem, a material closely related to sapphire, allowing more of the movement to be visible through the transparent case. With its in-house movement and unique case material, this watch is limited to just 100 pieces, making it a rare collector’s item. The MSRP is $121,000.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic (ref. 5010 12B30 B52B)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic (ref. 5010 12B30 B52B)Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic (ref. 5010 12B30 B52B)

Does the age of a watch brand necessarily mean a longer power reserve? Probably not, but Blancpain, one of the oldest watchmakers in the world, offers an impressive 120-hour power reserve in its Fifty Fathoms Automatic. 

This model features a 42mm titanium case and comes with a sail canvas strap. Inside, you’ll find the Caliber 1315, which provides time and date functions only. There are several variations of this watch, but this particular one boasts a sleek black dial and a beautiful open-case back. It’s priced at an MSRP of $18,400. 

The Fifty Fathoms is versatile enough to be worn with a suit or dressed down with jeans and a shirt. However, it does wear on the larger side, so it may not be the best fit for those with smaller wrists.

Glashütte Original PanoMatic Lunar Blue Dial (ref. 1-90-02-46-32-64)

Glashütte Original PanoMatic Lunar Blue Dial (ref. 1-90-02-46-32-64)

The last time I talked about moon phases was probably back in high school, but the Glashütte Original PanoMatic Lunar is sure to reignite those conversations. This watch features a stunning radiant blue dial and comes in a 40mm case size with a water resistance of 50 meters. 

Despite the moon phase complication, the watch remains relatively thin at 12.7mm, housing the in-house Glashütte movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The unique dial configuration of this timepiece is sure to set you apart from others, offering a design that’s as distinctive as it is elegant. 

Priced at an MSRP of $11,200, this watch comes on a blue fabric strap that enhances the blue dial, making it even more eye-catching.

Breguet Tradition Tourbillon (ref. 7047 7047PT/1Y/9ZU)

Breguet Tradition Tourbillon (ref. 7047 7047PT:1Y:9ZU)

Many watches like to show off their engineering with an open case back, but Breguet takes a different approach by displaying their craftsmanship right on the front of the watch. Made from platinum, this timepiece has a 41mm case size and a thickness of 16mm, making a bold statement on your wrist. 

When it comes to luxury watches, the tourbillon can be considered the epitome of fine watchmaking, and this watch is no exception. The tourbillon features Breguet’s Calibre 569, which houses an astounding 542 pieces and offers a 55-hour power reserve. With an MSRP of $222,200, this watch showcases what the highest level of horology truly looks like.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Purple Haze (ref. 6201-1201)

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Purple Haze (ref. 6201-1201)

No other watch looks quite like the Streamliner, and that’s what truly sets H. Moser apart from the rest of the watch world. This timepiece features an integrated bracelet with a 40mm case size and offers 120 meters of water resistance. The dial is a stunning purple haze fume, as H. Moser describes it, but the real magic lies on the back. 

The transparent case back reveals the HMC 201 movement, which is a simple time-only function but beautifully crafted. The bracelet is made with individually finished links, allowing it to comfortably hug the wrist and wear well in any situation. With a retail price of $24,000, this watch is not just a timepiece—it’s a conversation starter and a head-turner.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph (ref. PFC931-1020002-400182)

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph (ref. PFC931-1020002-400182)

Parmigiani is synonymous with high-level watchmaking, and the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is a prime example of this excellence. Inside the Tonda, you’ll find the PF070-COSC movement, which offers a 65-hour power reserve and features time, date, and chronograph functions. 

The watch comes in a 42mm steel case with a thickness of 12.9mm, combining sportiness with elegance. The dial is beautifully textured with a silver finish, complemented by blue subdials for the chronograph. 

The watch is paired with a blue rubber strap that perfectly matches the subdials, adding to its sporty yet sophisticated aesthetic. With an MSRP of $30,000, this timepiece is an easy addition to any collection, offering a sportier take on high horology.

Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit (ref. LCF044.02.T1.RN1.2)

Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit (ref. LCF044.02.T1.RN1.2)

A common trend in luxury watches is the mesmerizing display of movement and engineering, and the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit is no exception. The tourbillon is showcased on the back of the watch, while the front features a stunning salmon-colored dial with a small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. 

Laurent Ferrier has put watch enthusiasts in a difficult position—it’s hard to decide whether to admire the captivating movement on the back or the elegant dial on the front. This timepiece is on the larger side, measuring 44mm in diameter with a 13.5mm thickness. 

However, it is crafted from grade 5 titanium, making it surprisingly light on the wrist. Inside, the watch houses the LF619.01 hand-wound movement, offering an impressive 80-hour power reserve, all for $200,000.

Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky 40.5mm

Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky 40.5mm

Living in a big city often means we don’t get to see the stars at night, leaving us to imagine what that view would be like. The Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky brings that night sky to your wrist. 

The watch features a very wearable 40.5mm case with a thickness of 10.5mm, making it comfortable for daily wear. It comes with an integrated brushed and high-polish bracelet, complete with a micro-adjustment for easy, on-the-fly sizing changes. For versatility, it also includes a rubber strap, allowing you to wear the watch with anything from jeans to a suit. 

But the real magic happens on the back. The open case back showcases the Caliber SXH5 with a micro-rotor, offering a clearer view of the movement and a 60-hour power reserve. Limited to just 99 pieces, this watch retails for $30,500, making it a truly exclusive timepiece.

Conclusion

Going back to the original question: do we need luxury watches? These timepieces are crafted with extreme precision, each part serving a unique purpose. The answer remains yes—luxury watches inspire a feeling that can become addicting, making you crave more and more. 

I own some of the timepieces listed here, and I can tell you that it’s a great feeling to go about my day only to glance at my wrist and smile. There’s a special connection that comes from the research, the countless photos, and the careful thought put into selecting a luxury watch that truly reflects your persona.

rolex explorer 40 review

Rolex Explorer 40 Review (Read BEFORE You Buy!)

William Boyd

April 1, 2025

The Rolex Explorer is often seen as the “undercover” Rolex, more of a piece for true enthusiasts than some of the more flashy models in the Rolex collection. 

It has a long history of being the “if you know, you know” Rolex for a good reason. When watch lovers talk about a GADA (go anywhere, do anything) watch, the Explorer is always mentioned. 

The current Explorer comes in two sizes: 36mm and 40mm. The 36mm version is available in an all-stainless steel version and a two-tone option. While the two-tone might not be for everyone, it’s actually one of my personal favorites. 

Today, we’re focusing on the 40mm Explorer, which is especially popular among enthusiasts for its size. It’s perfect for people who like the Explorer but found the 36mm too small for their larger wrists.

History

Rolex Explorer 40 History

In 1953, Rolex introduced both the Submariner and the Explorer. The original Explorer was released with a 36mm case, designed for easy readability in any situation or environment. There’s a popular story that the Explorer made it to the top of Mount Everest, but this isn’t actually true. 

However, the watch became closely associated with rugged outdoor adventures because it was built to handle extreme conditions, including different temperatures and tough environments. While the Explorer never reached the same level of fame as the Submariner, it stayed a reliable part of the Rolex lineup for many years. 

Over time, the Explorer has mostly been available in the 36mm size, though it has also been offered in other sizes like 39mm and 40mm. One feature that has remained the same across all versions of the Explorer is the 3-6-9 dial design, which makes the watch easy to read at a glance.

Case

GADA stands for “go anywhere, do anything” when it comes to watches, and the Rolex Explorer certainly fits that description with its classic case shape, making it a standout in the Rolex lineup. 

It features the iconic Oyster-style case with polished sides and a polished bezel. Rolex polishes the bezel to create a balance between durability and elegance. This watch truly embodies that idea – it can handle tough situations, yet still looks sleek enough to wear under a suit cuff. 

The case is 40mm with a thickness of 11.6mm, which is a comfortable and wearable size. The watch also has a screw-down crown and is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The Explorer is protected by a sapphire crystal, which has an anti-reflective coating on the inside to improve legibility in bright conditions. 

The sapphire crystal itself is highly scratch-resistant, making it a smart choice for durability. Rolex wisely applied the anti-reflective coating only to the inside of the crystal, preventing marks on the outside when the coating is scratched off, which can happen with other watches. 

Since the Explorer is designed for outdoor use, where readability is essential, this design choice makes perfect sense.

Dial 

The dial is one of my favorite features of this watch. Unlike some people, I actually use my watch to tell time, and that’s always a key factor in whether I decide to buy one. When I look at the black dial of the Rolex Explorer, it’s incredibly easy to quickly tell the time. 

The 3-6-9 numbers on the dial make it simple to figure out the hour at a glance. Some might think the lettering at the 12 o’clock position looks crowded compared to the 6 o’clock side, but I personally don’t pay much attention to the lettering when reading the time. The Mercedes hands are a great match for the dial, giving it a polished, complete look. 

There’s no date display on the dial, which helps maintain its symmetry. The lume on the dial also adds to the watch’s overall readability. The hour markers, along with the 3-6-9, are filled with Chromalight, a blue glow that stands out when you go from outside to inside. 

Some brands skimp on the lume for their watch hands, but Rolex didn’t cut corners. The hands are perfectly illuminated, matching the balance of the watch and making it easy to read in low light.

Movement

The Rolex Explorer is powered by the 3230 movement, which provides a 70-hour power reserve and keeps time within +2/-2 seconds per day, making it perfect for everyday wear. Since it’s a time-only watch, setting it is straightforward. 

It’s also self-winding, so as you move through your day, it continues to stay powered. This movement was designed to handle heavy shocks and resist magnetic fields. It has been part of the Explorer collection since 2020 and has proven to be reliable. 

The 3230 movement is also used in other Rolex watches, most notably in the Submariner no-date version. Even though this movement doesn’t include a date function, it’s still impressive, with 31 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph).

Straps

The Rolex Explorer comes with the Oyster bracelet, which is one of the most comfortable options available. It has a brushed finish with polished edges and a lug width of 21mm. The watch also looks great on other straps, like a classic brown leather strap or a NATO strap for a more rugged style.

I’ve often seen older Explorers paired with a green NATO strap, which gives the watch a unique look. One of my favorite alternatives to the Oyster bracelet is a black sailcloth strap. However, after wearing this watch for a while, I always find myself preferring it on the bracelet. 

The Oyster bracelet also features the Easylink system, which allows you to adjust the fit on warmer days or when you need a bit more comfort. To keep the Explorer securely on your wrist, the bracelet includes the Oysterlock safety clasp, ensuring that the watch stays put as you go on your adventures.

On-Wrist Experience

The real standout of this watch is how it feels on the wrist. I’ll admit I’m a bit biased since I’ve owned it for a year, and it’s been my everyday watch. I work in an office, so I wear a button-up and tie, and I’ve never had any issues with the watch getting caught on my cuff. 

It’s incredibly versatile and easy to pair with any outfit. I’ve worn it in all sorts of situations—from gardening and traveling to even changing the oil. When people say this is a go-anywhere, do-anything watch, they’re spot on. It’s hard to reach for any other watch because this one always looks great, no matter the occasion. 

I have a 7-inch wrist, and the size of this watch is just right for me. With its dimensions, it fits comfortably on wrists, ranging from 6.5 to 8 inches. 

While I haven’t tested the 100-meter water resistance yet, I’m confident there won’t be any problems, especially with the screw-down crown. I have occasionally washed my hands and gotten water on the watch, and I can confirm that it survived getting wet. 

On the wrist, the watch is very comfortable, and I don’t have to worry about it digging into my wrist. Even though the watch is listed at 40mm, it doesn’t have a large presence that would make it uncomfortable. The Explorer has a medium weight—it’s not as heavy as a solid gold watch, but it’s also not as light as some titanium watches.

Price & Availability

In an ideal world, you’d walk into an authorized Rolex dealer and have the option to buy the Rolex Explorer 40mm for $7,800. While availability can vary from dealer to dealer, I’ve been lucky enough to walk in and find one ready for purchase without any wait. Online, you can find a few listings ranging from $7,300 to $8,800.

Conclusion

A theme that keeps coming up in my writing is how this watch will go with you wherever you go, no matter the adventure. For those of us with more settled lifestyles, this watch is just as great for running errands at warehouse stores or attending a black-tie event at your kid’s school. 

As someone who’s often indecisive and does tons of research before buying anything, I know it can make purchasing things tricky. But if you’re unsure about this watch, don’t hesitate—just buy it. It’s brought me so much joy and has been with me through many different situations. 

I’m not worried about scratching it or damaging it if I’m out doing something a little more daring. With all this information and my personal experience, I’ll say it again: get the watch, it’s worth it.

tudor black bay 54 vs 58

Tudor Black Bay 58 vs. 54: Which Model is Right for You?

William Boyd

March 1, 2025

Tudor is one of the most versatile watch brands today, offering something for everyone. They’ve listened to collectors and created models that meet our expectations. Two of their most popular models are the Black Bay 58 and Black Bay 54. Both are best-sellers and play a huge role in Tudor’s success.

Both watches are competitively priced, with only a hundred-dollar difference between them. The Black Bay 58 was released in 2018 and has been an instant hit, remaining popular to this day. 

The Black Bay 54 debuted in 2023, quickly gaining its own following, and the two have been competing ever since. Both are highly sought after and loved by the watch community. From photos or at a quick glance, it can be tough to tell them apart, but there are enough differences to make choosing between them a challenge. 

If, like me, you find it hard to decide, comparing these two similar yet different watches can be overwhelming. Let’s break it down to help you decide.

The Tudor Black Bay 54

Tudor Black Bay 54

The Black Bay 54 is named after the year Tudor released its first dive watch in 1954. This model is a modern version of the original Tudor 7922. It keeps the same 37mm case size as the original but improves the water resistance from 100 meters to 200 meters. When you compare the BB54 to the 7922 that inspired it, the two look almost identical. This design gives the BB54 a true vintage feel without using the fake patina that many other watches rely on.

Inside, the BB54 features the MT5400 movement, which is used in other Tudor models like the BB58. This movement is COSC-certified for accuracy, running at minus 2 to plus 4 seconds per day, and it has an impressive 70-hour power reserve. This means you can leave it unworn for a weekend, and it will still keep perfect time when you pick it up again on Monday on your way to work.

The BB54 comes in only one color, black, and is available with either a steel bracelet or a black rubber strap. Both options include the T-fit adjustment clasp, which allows you to fine-tune the bracelet for maximum comfort without needing any tools. It also features a unidirectional rotatable bezel with a 60-minute timer.

The Tudor Black Bay 58

Tudor Black Bay 58

The Black Bay 58 takes its inspiration from Tudor’s 1958 dive watch. It has a slightly larger case size at 39mm, which many consider the “sweet spot” for dive watches. This model’s design includes several nods to Tudor’s history, such as the lollipop-shaped second-hand and rose gold accents on the dial and bezel, giving it a vintage feel.

The BB58 uses either the MT5400 or MT5402 movement, both offering the same COSC-certified accuracy and 70-hour power reserve as the BB54. It also features a unidirectional rotatable bezel with a 60-minute timer, a practical detail for divers or anyone who enjoys timing tasks.

What sets the BB58 apart is the variety of dial and case options. The watch is available in multiple colors, including black, blue, green, and taupe. It also comes in various case materials, such as steel, yellow gold, silver, and bronze, offering a wide range of styles to suit different tastes.

Tudor Black Bay 54 vs 58 – How to Choose

While these two watches have their differences, they share several core features that make them equally impressive. Both models offer 200 meters of water resistance, making them suitable for serious diving or serious desk divers. They are both fitted with durable sapphire crystal glass, which is highly scratch-resistant and helps with daily wear over time.

The BB54 and BB58 also share the same MT5400 movement family, providing excellent timekeeping accuracy and a 70-hour power reserve. Both watches have a lug width of 20mm, allowing for easy strap changes to personalize your look. Additionally, their case thicknesses are nearly identical, with only a 0.7mm difference, ensuring both models are slim enough to fit under a shirt cuff.

The Black Bay 58 stands out for its range of choices. It comes in multiple colors and materials, making it ideal for someone who wants options. For instance, if you love blue tones, the BB58 offers a version with a striking blue dial and bezel. In contrast, the Black Bay 54 keeps it simple with a classic black dial, which pairs effortlessly with any outfit.

Another key difference is the clasp design. The BB54 includes the T-fit clasp, which makes adjusting the bracelet incredibly easy and convenient, especially if your wrist size changes throughout the day due to heat or activity. The BB58, on the other hand, has a traditional clasp with three micro-adjustment positions. While functional, it isn’t as quick or flexible as the BB54’s clasp.

Size is another factor that sets these two models apart. The BB58’s 39mm case has a bold presence on the wrist, appealing to those who prefer a slightly larger watch. The BB54’s 37mm case is smaller and more subtle, offering a lightweight, comfortable fit that many will appreciate.

Choosing between these two watches depends on what matters most to you. I would pick the BB54. My 7-inch wrist works well with both sizes, but the T-fit clasp on the BB54 is a game-changer for me. Living in a warm climate, I often need to adjust my bracelet as my wrist swells in the heat, and the BB54 makes this quick and easy.

Conclusion

Both the Black Bay 58 and Black Bay 54 are excellent additions to any watch collection. The BB58 is perfect for someone who values variety, offering multiple colors, materials, and a slightly larger size. On the other hand, the BB54 is ideal if you prefer a simple, classic look and the convenience of an adjustable clasp.

The deciding factor might come down to how the watch fits your lifestyle and personal preferences. Ultimately, the best choice is the one that sparks joy every time you put it on your wrist. Whichever model you choose, you’re going to love it.

best gmt watches

15 Best GMT Watches (Rolex, Tudor, Omega, and More!)

William Boyd

February 25, 2025

The style of your watch speaks volumes about your personality and taste. To the everyday observer with little knowledge of watches, it might seem like nothing more than a functional clock on your wrist. 

However, to the watch connoisseur, it’s a window into your character, preferences, and lifestyle. While there are countless timepieces designed for specific occasions and situations, it’s not uncommon to gravitate toward one favorite watch—finding any excuse to make it your go-to everyday companion.

But what makes a particular watch a staple of your daily attire? Is it the sleekness, the dial, or the bracelet? Perhaps it’s the way the watch aligns perfectly with your lifestyle—offering features that suit your needs and preferences. For those who love to travel or frequently need to track multiple time zones, there’s no better choice than the timeless classic: the GMT watch.

The traveler’s essential timepiece, the GMT has earned its place as a must-have in nearly every enthusiast’s collection. Whether you’re jetting across the globe, staying connected to distant loved ones, or simply appreciating the practical functionality of tracking multiple time zones, GMT watches are an irresistible style. With their iconic design and unmatched versatility, they remain a favorite for both seasoned collectors and those just entering the world of horology.

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Grand Seiko

SBGE307 Sport Lion's Mane

  • High-intensity titanium
  • Spring drive
  • 44.5mm
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Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Omega

Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial Master Chronometer GMT 43.5mm on Bracelet 215.30.44.22.01.001

  • Steel
  • Automatic
  • 43.5mm
View this Watch
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

TUDOR

Black Bay GMT M79830RB-0010

  • Steel
  • Automatic
  • 41mm
View this Watch

History of GMT Watches

Everything starts with a need, and during the aviation boom of the 1950s, the demand for a tool capable of tracking time across multiple time zones became paramount. 

For pilots navigating international routes and frequent flyers alike, a reliable timepiece that could display both local and home times simultaneously was not just a luxury—it was an essential instrument for their profession. 

As global air travel surged, pilots required a handheld device to help them manage the constant transitions between time zones, ensuring precision and efficiency in an era of rapidly expanding aviation.

Before diving into the timepiece itself, a first-time buyer might find themselves asking, “What exactly does GMT stand for?” The acronym GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, a time standard established in 1884 as the Prime Meridian—the starting point from which all global time zones are measured. 

This reference point was located in Greenwich, London, making it the birthplace of standardized timekeeping and a cornerstone for global navigation and aviation.

The first attempt at an aviation-based wristwatch came from the Swiss company Glycine in 1953. The Glycine Airman was a pioneering timepiece designed specifically for pilots and frequent travelers. It featured a 24-hour dial instead of the conventional 12-hour format, allowing users to distinguish between day and night at a glance. 

Additionally, it came equipped with a rotating bezel marked with 24-hour increments, enabling the wearer to track a second time zone with ease—setting the stage for the development of modern GMT watches.

Although the Glycine Airman laid the groundwork for dual-time watches, 1954 marked the debut of what the world would come to recognize as the first “true GMT.” Rolex, in collaboration with Pan Am Airways, introduced the iconic GMT-Master Ref. 6542. 

Designed to meet the needs of Pan Am pilots flying international routes, this timepiece featured a now-famous blue and red 24-hour rotating bezel and an additional hour hand that allowed wearers to simultaneously track two time zones. The GMT-Master Ref. 6542 not only revolutionized aviation watches but also solidified Rolex’s reputation as a pioneer in practical yet luxurious timekeeping. 

The GMT-Master Ref. 6542 remained the pinnacle of GMT watches, with Rolex basking in its success for nearly three decades. However, in 1982, the brand introduced a groundbreaking successor: the GMT-Master II Ref. 16760. This highly modified version of the classic GMT watch was designed to enhance functionality and usability for pilots, travelers, and enthusiasts alike. 

The Ref. 16760 introduced an independent hour hand, allowing the wearer to adjust the local time without disturbing the minutes, along with the traditional GMT hand and a rotating 24-hour bezel. This innovative configuration enabled the tracking of three separate time zones, making the GMT-Master II a quintessential tool for global adventurers.

Brands from all ends of the spectrum, whether entry-level or high-end, quickly joined the GMT watch trend as international business and the travel industry flourished. 

The growing demand for practical and stylish timepieces inspired manufacturers to innovate, blending the GMT complication with other watch categories such as sports, field, and dive watches. This evolution gave rise to increasingly complex and intricate designs that catered to a variety of lifestyles and professions.

Brands like Omega, Tudor, and Grand Seiko have made significant contributions to the GMT category, each adding their unique flair to the aviation-inspired tool watch. Omega integrated GMT complications into its renowned Seamaster and Speedmaster lines, combining exceptional functionality with sleek designs. 

Tudor offered a modern twist with the Black Bay GMT, celebrated for its vintage-inspired aesthetic and practicality. Grand Seiko, known for its precision and craftsmanship, elevated the GMT with innovative Spring Drive and quartz movements, redefining the standard for accuracy and reliability.

This diversification of GMT watches has not only expanded their appeal but also solidified their status as a staple in any enthusiast’s collection—blending utility, style, and innovation into a single timepiece.

Top 15 Best GMT Watches

With a wide range of brands putting their best effort into crafting functional and stylish GMT watches, the options for adding one of these exquisite traveler’s timepieces to your collection are endless. 

Whether you’re drawn to the rugged appeal of tool watches or the elegance of luxury designs, there’s a GMT watch to suit every taste and budget. To help you navigate this world of possibilities, here are our top 15 picks for the best GMT watches available on the market today. 

Rolex GMT-Master II (ref. 126710BLNR)

Rolex GMT-Master II (ref. 126710BLNR)

Of course, we had to start with the granddaddy of them all. Rolex’s GMT-Master II is a legendary GMT model and likely the first that comes to mind when discussing these timepieces. Among the lineup, the ref. 126710BLNR, affectionately nicknamed “Batgirl,” stands out as the sleeker and more versatile successor to “Batman” (ref. 116710BLNR). 

Both models derive their nicknames from the striking black and blue rotating Cerachrom bezel, a hallmark of Rolex design. Powered by the Caliber 3285 with a 70-hour power reserve, it offers impressive functionality in a 40mm case. At $11,000, this iconic watch is a worthy addition to any collection.

Tudor Black Bay GMT (ref. M79830RB-0010)

Tudor Black Bay GMT (ref. M79830RB-0010)

Closely tied to Rolex but carving its own distinct path in the world of horology, Tudor has solidified its reputation for producing exceptional timepieces. The Black Bay GMT ref. M79830RB-0010, unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, is a testament to the brand’s innovative spirit. 

This 41mm watch features a bold blue and burgundy 24-hour bezel paired with a pristine white opaline dial, creating a striking visual contrast. Equipped with the Calibre MT5652, it offers an impressive 70-hour power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance. Priced at $4,550, the Black Bay GMT is a versatile, stylish, and functional option for enthusiasts seeking a standout GMT watch.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT (ref. 215.30.44.22.01.001)

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT (ref. 215.30.44.22.01.001)

Omega, a brand synonymous with precision and innovation, has cemented its place as one of the most prestigious names in watchmaking. Known for everything from racetrack-ready chronographs to the first watch on the moon, Omega consistently proves its versatility in crafting timepieces for every scenario. 

The Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT, ref. 215.30.44.22.01.001 is yet another example of their expertise in high-end tool watches. Featuring a sleek black and white rotating bezel and a matching black dial, this 44mm watch combines subtle elegance with bold functionality. With 600 meters of water resistance, a 60-hour power reserve, and a price of $8,700, this GMT is a statement piece that blends luxury with performance.

Grand Seiko “Tokyo Lion” GMT SBGE307

If timepieces are considered art, then every creation by Grand Seiko is undeniably a masterpiece. Renowned for their captivating dials that naturally draw the observer’s eye, Grand Seiko also stands out for its groundbreaking in-house movements, demonstrating an unwavering commitment to precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. 

In 2024, the latest addition to Grand Seiko’s Sports Collection arrived in the form of the SBGE307—a meticulously designed titanium GMT masterpiece. This 44.5mm timepiece features a black, even-markered bezel paired with a stunning white dial, intricately detailed to evoke the mane of a lion. 

Powered by the iconic Spring Drive movement, the watch boasts a date window at 3 o’clock and a striking red GMT hand, along with an impressive 72-hour power reserve. This “Tokyo Lion” is available for a retail price of $11,000.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time (ref. 5164A-001)

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time (ref. 5164A-001)

Some watches develop such a cult following that, even after production ends, they become even more desirable, turning into prized collector’s items. Such is the case with the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time. 

Widely regarded as one of Patek’s most iconic watches, its production ended in February after a 13-year run. The beloved Ref. 5164A-001, celebrated for its dual time zone functionality and sleek design, now commands an average aftermarket price of $73,000, solidifying its status as a modern classic. 

With its instantly recognizable dial and elegant pushers for adjusting time zones, the 5164A-001 stands as both a piece of history and one of the most refined GMT watches on our list.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date (ref. 26650TI.OO.D013CA.01)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date (ref. 26650TI.OO.D013CA.01)

There are brand names, and then there are powerhouses—Audemars Piguet is undoubtedly the latter. Renowned as masters of haute horology, AP has built a legacy of crafting innovative and complex timepieces that stand out for their exceptional design and craftsmanship. 

Known for iconic models like the Royal Oak, the brand consistently pushes the boundaries of watchmaking. A prime example is the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date, ref. 26650TI.OO.D013CA.01. This 43mm masterpiece features an intricately designed openworked dial and showcases AP’s technical prowess. With a market price of around $179,000, it’s a true testament to luxury and innovation.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time (ref. 7920V/210A-B334)

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time (ref. 7920V/210A-B334)

When it comes to brand names, some are widely recognized for their luxury, while others remain more discreet—reserved for those who truly appreciate the pinnacle of exclusivity and sophistication. These ultra-luxurious brands cater to a refined audience, showcasing unmatched craftsmanship and innovation. 

Vacheron Constantin is one such brand, attracting a devoted following of discerning collectors. The Overseas Dual Time ref. 7920V/210A-B334 exemplifies this mastery, featuring a stunning royal blue dial, 60 hours of power reserve, and 150 meters of water resistance. Priced at $30,900, this GMT timepiece is a remarkable blend of complications and top-tier horology.

H. Moser & Cie Heritage Dual Time (ref. 8809-1200)

H. Moser & Cie Heritage Dual Time (ref. 8809-1200)

Continuing with the silent luxury aspect of our list is H. Moser & Cie’s Dual Time. Upon reviewing this timepiece, I was immediately captivated by the understated elegance of its design, particularly the burgundy dial. 

It’s rare to see a red dial that doesn’t overwhelm the senses, but this one transitions effortlessly through light and shadow, exuding sophistication. With three-dimensional indices and a beautifully crafted GMT hand, the $21,900 Heritage Dual Time stands as a subtle yet powerful statement from one of the finest hidden gems in luxury watchmaking.

Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller Blue Dial (ref. LCF007.AC.CW1)

Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller Blue Dial (ref. LCF007.AC.CW1)

There’s an undeniable allure to items that combine exceptional quality with effortless functionality. While this principle applies to smartphones and TVs, it’s especially true for the Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller Blue Dial. At first glance, the dual date windows might seem perplexing, but their purpose quickly becomes clear. 

The ref. LCF007.AC.CW1 features side pushers for seamlessly adjusting the local time, while an open window at 9 o’clock displays the time back home. The 3 o’clock window remains dedicated to the date, all beautifully showcased on an exquisite blue dial. At a pre-owned market price of $46,500, this timepiece is a testament to refined simplicity and masterful craftsmanship. 

Blancpain Villeret Quantieme Complet GMT (ref. 6676 1127 55B)

Blancpain Villeret Quantieme Complet GMT (ref. 6676 1127 55B)

A dial packed with details can feel overwhelming at first glance, but the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet GMT masterfully balances functionality and elegance. Inspired by classic dress watches from the 1950s, the ref. 6676-1127-55B features four distinct hands tracking hours, minutes, a second time zone, and the date via a 31-day marker on the outer ring. 

It also includes a stunning moon phase complication above the 6 o’clock marker, complemented by beautifully detailed Roman numeral hour markers. The meticulous placement, refined lettering, and exceptional craftsmanship make this $16,800 masterpiece a harmonious blend of complexity and timeless sophistication.

Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium (ref. 471.NX.7112.RX)

Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium (ref. 471.NX.7112.RX)

From the subtle and understated to the loud and bold, the Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium is undoubtedly one of the most exuberant entries on our list. True to Hublot’s reputation, this timepiece is a bold statement of luxury and innovation. Its openworked dial showcases even numbers on the inner ring and odd numbers on the bezel, creating a dynamic and eye-catching design. 

Despite its intricate appearance, it remains remarkably user-friendly. The side pushers allow effortless time adjustments, with the top pusher advancing the local time by an hour and the bottom pusher resetting it to home time. The Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT is priced at $19,900.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante (ref. PFC905-2020001-200182)

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante (ref. PFC905-2020001-200182)

What is it about secret compartments and hidden buttons that never fails to captivate us? The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante leans into this allure with extraordinary elegance. While not a conventional GMT, its innovative and whimsical feature earns it a deserving place on this list. 

At first, I was surprised to see it included, but after exploring its unique functionality, I couldn’t help but be charmed. This stunning 44mm rose gold timepiece features a discrete pusher that unveils a silver GMT hand, allowing you to track local time alongside its rose gold companions. Priced at $65,600, the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is a hidden gem for those seeking a truly distinctive take on a GMT.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.63.6)

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.63.6)

Not everyone can break the bank for the options on this list, but that doesn’t mean you can’t own a high-quality GMT watch. For a modest $3,150, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time offers one of the best entry-level options on the market. 

Perfectly sized at 39mm, the ref. L3.802.4.63.6 features a stunning green rotating bezel with gold even numbers paired with a sleek black dial. This timepiece combines functionality and elegance, making it a stylish and accessible choice for anyone seeking a reliable GMT without compromising on design or craftsmanship.

Oris Aquis GMT Date (ref. 01 798 7754 4135-07 8 24 05PEB)

Oris Aquis GMT Date (ref. 01 798 7754 4135-07 8 24 05PEB)

Few watches capture the essence of a tool watch quite like the Oris Aquis GMT Date. Designed for versatility, it blends rugged durability with refined elegance. Featuring a deep blue dial, an orange-tipped GMT hand, and a date window at 3 o’clock, it seamlessly tracks time zones whether you’re in the air, on rugged terrain, or diving deep underwater. 

With 300 meters of water resistance and a 42-hour power reserve, this powerhouse is built to handle any adventure. At a price of $3,300, the Oris Aquis GMT Date offers exceptional functionality and style, making it a worthy addition to any collection.

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-interpretation GMT Save the Ocean Limited Edition SPB439 

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver's Re-interpretation GMT Save the Ocean Limited Edition SPB439 

Last but certainly not least on our list is the tool watch connoisseur Seiko, with their Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-interpretation GMT Save the Ocean Limited Edition SPB439. This 42mm timepiece pays homage to Seiko’s iconic 1968 diver’s watch while incorporating modern functionality and eco-conscious design. 

The stunning blue gradient dial evokes the ocean’s depths, complemented by a ceramic bezel and a vibrant orange GMT hand for tracking a second timezone. With 200 meters of water resistance, a robust stainless steel case, and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, this limited-edition piece offers exceptional value at $1,600.

Conclusion

Owning a GMT watch is more than just expanding your collection; it’s a celebration of horological evolution and innovation. These timepieces represent a tangible connection to the rich history of watchmaking, embodying the ability to unite different parts of the world on your wrist. With their functionality and symbolic nature, GMT watches elegantly intertwine practicality and heritage, making them an essential piece for any collector.

cartier past

Cartier Watch Review: Is this Brand Worth Your Money?

William Boyd

February 21, 2025

The world’s luxury watch brands have maintained their elite status by mastering the art of distinction. Each brand has carved out a unique identity through meticulous craftsmanship, innovative designs, and unparalleled attention to detail. 

While the Swiss dominate the market with renowned names like Rolex and Omega, and the Japanese brand Grand Seiko rises with its relentless pursuit of excellence, one French brand, Cartier, remains one of the most sought-after watchmakers in the world. Known for blending timeless elegance with horological innovation, Cartier has cemented its place as a symbol of luxury and sophistication.

Having carved its way into stardom by captivating royalty since its inception, Cartier has solidified its reputation as a quintessential symbol of luxury. Renowned for its timeless elegance, innovative designs, and unmatched craftsmanship, the brand continues to define sophistication in the realms of high-end watchmaking and jewelry. 

Whether you’re a man or a woman, wearing a Cartier is an expression of excellence, elegance, and an undeniable sense of prestige. If you’re new to this iconic French brand and want to understand what makes Cartier the luxurious powerhouse it is, you’ve come to the right place.  

Cartier Watches in the Past

For starters, history reveals that the Cartier brand was far from having humble beginnings. While that might sound like a negative connotation, it’s perhaps more accurate to say that Cartier was destined for prestige and greatness from the very start. 

After inheriting his mentor’s jewelry-making workshop in 1847, Louis-François Cartier began building his empire by crafting exclusive pieces for royalty. This burgeoning reputation for excellence quickly attracted the attention of France’s most elite socialites, who turned to Cartier for their most luxurious and bespoke jewelry needs.

From there, the Cartier brothers, Louis and Pierre—Louis named after their grandfather—worked tirelessly to expand the brand on an international scale. By 1904, Louis had relocated the Paris shop to the prestigious Rue de la Paix, while Pierre opened a branch on London’s Burlington Street. Their combined vision and ambition transformed Cartier from a Parisian boutique into a globally recognized symbol of luxury and elegance. 

This rise to prominence was solidified when King Edward VII of England awarded Cartier a royal warrant, declaring it the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers”. With this prestigious endorsement, Cartier became the official supplier of jewelry to Europe’s royalty, cementing its reputation at the pinnacle of luxury. 

You may have noticed that watches have yet to be mentioned in Cartier’s early rise to luxurious prestige. While the brand initially built its reputation on exquisite jewelry, it wasn’t until the early 20th century that Cartier ventured into watchmaking. 

At that time, wristwatches were primarily designed for women and were viewed more as decorative accessories than functional tools. Pocket watches remained the preferred choice for timekeeping, while early wristwatches—used mostly by military personnel—were essentially modified pocket watches strapped onto the wrist.

That all changed in 1904 when Louis Cartier’s friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, voiced a particular frustration. He explained how pocket watches were impractical for pilots, as their line of duty required both hands on the controls, making it difficult to check the time mid-flight. Inspired to solve his friend’s dilemma, Louis Cartier designed a wristwatch with a flat, squared dial that allowed for easy readability at a glance. 

The watch was groundbreaking in form and function and became the first modern wristwatch made specifically for men. Louis named the timepiece the Santos in honor of his friend, forever cementing its place as an icon in the history of watchmaking as the first modern wristwatch.

This led to a collaboration with the Swiss watchmaker Edmond Jaeger—yes, the same Jaeger of Jaeger-LeCoultre fame. While Cartier’s watches continued to be designed in Paris, their movements were crafted in Switzerland under Jaeger’s expertise. 

This partnership combined French elegance with Swiss precision, a fusion that would lay the foundation for some of the most iconic watch designs of the 20th century. The collaboration not only elevated Cartier’s status as a serious player in the world of horology but also set a new standard for luxury watches, blending artistry with mechanical innovation.

Cartier Watches Today

Nowadays, Cartier is regarded as one of the most luxurious and sought-after brands in the world, catering to both men and women. It continues to uphold its reputation as one of the most prestigious watchmakers, celebrated for its timeless designs and elegant yet understated models. 

With iconic creations such as the Santos, Tank, and Panthère, Cartier has cultivated a loyal and diverse following, solidifying its place at the intersection of high fashion and horology. These models exemplify Cartier’s commitment to blending heritage, innovation, and style, making them coveted pieces in any watch collection.

The French brand has firmly established itself as a symbol of status and elegance in the world of fashion. Over the years, Cartier has attracted some of the most famous and influential figures across the globe, cementing its reputation as a timeless icon. From the grace of Princess Diana to the charisma of Muhammad Ali, and now to modern-day stars like Paul Mescal and Jisoo of BLACKPINK, Cartier’s allure transcends generations and cultures.

Perhaps one of the most significant talking points about Cartier’s reputation today ties directly to its origins. As the official jeweler of European royalty, Cartier earned the moniker “King of Jewelers”, a status that remains synonymous with the brand to this day. This illustrious history has led many to perceive Cartier primarily as a fashion or jewelry brand rather than a serious watchmaking powerhouse. 

This notion is reinforced by Cartier’s creation of several luxurious collections of bracelets, rings, and necklaces. Crafted with a vast array of gems and precious metals, these exquisite pieces showcase remarkable designs that have historically been tailored primarily to a female audience.

But this perspective should be taken with a grain of salt. When comparing Cartier to high-end luxury brands such as Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet in terms of technological or horological advancements, Cartier admittedly cannot compete on the same technical level. 

These brands are renowned for their groundbreaking complications and mechanical innovations, while Cartier has traditionally focused on aesthetics, elegance, and the art of design. 

However, Cartier’s strength lies not in trying to outpace technical juggernauts but in offering timepieces that seamlessly blend artistry with functionality—making their watches as much about style and sophistication as they are about telling time.

Despite being behind in the technical race, Cartier has made significant strides by focusing more on producing in-house movements. Since establishing a base in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland—one of the epicenters of watchmaking excellence—the brand has successfully combined its iconic designs with high-quality horology. 

This facility has allowed Cartier to craft remarkably designed timepieces equipped with top-of-the-line movements, elevating its status in the world of serious watchmaking. From their innovative skeletonized calibers to their ultra-thin mechanical marvels, Cartier has proven that their watches are more than just beautiful—they are a testament to meticulous craftsmanship and technical prowess.

Should you get a Cartier Watch?

With a royal history and a commitment to modern innovation, Cartier has built a legacy defined by rich heritage and timeless designs. The brand seamlessly blends its storied past with contemporary craftsmanship, ensuring its creations remain both iconic and relevant. But the question remains: is buying a Cartier watch the right decision for you?

If you’re looking to enter the luxury watch market, Cartier offers an excellent entry-level option. Renowned for its elegance, heritage, and iconic designs, Cartier provides timepieces that blend fashion with timeless sophistication. For instance, you can’t go wrong with the legendary Tank or Santos, priced between $3,500 and $5,500, depending on the size and model. If you’re considering alternatives within the same realm of elegant timepieces, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a compelling option, starting at $5,500.

Now, if you’re after something more complex in terms of technical horological advancements and movements, Cartier also has options that cater to connoisseurs of haute horology. The Rotonde de Cartier collection stands out, offering complications like perpetual calendars and tourbillons, showcasing the brand’s dedication to advanced watchmaking. These pieces represent Cartier’s drive to be recognized as a serious player in the world of high horology.

However, while impressive, these efforts still fall short of brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, whose reputations are built on crafting some of the most intricate and technically innovative timepieces in existence. Cartier’s offerings in this category are a testament to its ambition, but they remain more about balancing sophistication and artistry than dominating the technical aspects of horology.

Conclusion

Cartier is a brand that has truly stood the test of time, thanks to its unwavering commitment to its royal heritage, timeless designs, and impeccable attention to detail in watchmaking. 

While the brand’s dominant reputation in the fashion industry may sometimes overshadow its progress as a serious watchmaking contender, it should not diminish the fact that every Cartier watch is a high-end horological masterpiece. 

Whether you’re drawn to their iconic Tank or Santos, or their more technically complex offerings like the Rotonde de Cartier, Cartier continues to marry elegance and craftsmanship in a way that sets their timepieces apart in the luxury watch world.

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