The avid timepiece enthusiast in me has always considered dive-watch culture as the most prominent experience in this hobby. The dive-watch was born out of a necessity as an essential tool, made for professionals doing jobs underwater for extended periods, during which the wearer’s life would depend on it keeping the correct time. Moreover, dive watches were put to the test during war times in the harshest environments; therefore, they needed to be built to last.
What is most fascinating about dive watches is how their legible and robust design, in the modern era, has appealed vastly to a mature segment of collectors called sports watch enthusiasts for being elegant, sporty, versatile, and, most importantly, fashionable.
Therefore, the nature of its existence, history, and relevance today has made the dive-watch special in my view.
A fan favorite in the dive-watch segment is Seiko, with a number of iconic and significant timepieces in its history that have inspired a modern tool watch collection that esteemed collectors highly rate.
This reputation for greatness elevates the status of the Grand Seiko Divers collection, which aims to push the boundaries of great watchmaking further than ever before. It is known that Grand Seiko was essentially created for the Seiko Group to produce the best watches possible with its best minds.
The watchmaker is famous for its usage of hand finishings and groundbreaking movement technology that have made its watches stand out against the competition. The Spring Drive 5 days Diver’s 200m SLGA015, the first dive-watch to release under the watchmaker’s modern flagship Evolution 9 range, is a strong contender to be its greatest dive-watch ever.
History
The SLGA015 is an evolution of an essential 200m water-resistant Grand Seiko Diver that saw its launch in 2008. This model started as the SBGA029 in stainless steel and SBGA031 in titanium, offered with a Spring-Drive Caliber 9R65 and later also with a High-Beat 9S85 Caliber.
The model is still current, in newer references (SBGA463 in Titanium), following minor updates since its introduction. It met many benchmarks of the watchmaker, as it was the flagship and very first Grand Seiko Diver to be released.
Its design was, most importantly, visually pleasing while drawing inspiration from Seiko Divers icons of the past; therefore, it possesses proven case lines and dial symmetries to make a highly legible and robust watch. Setting itself apart in luxury was its first time seeing a tribute in design to fundamental Grand Seiko grammar of design elements.
The SLGA015, unveiled in 2022, is the new flagship diver from Grand Seiko, as mentioned before, an evolution of the SBGA463 from the Sport Collection. The SLGA015 now sits within the Evolution 9 Collection, a range that evolves the grammar of style introduced since the 1967 44GS, with modern case lines, greater attention to detail, a more comfortable wearing experience, and the latest movement technology.
Case
The SLGA015 case lines have all the hallmarks of an elegant yet, robust divers timepiece. Its design best makes use of Grand Seiko’s lavish hand finishings while being faithful to the watchmaker’s grammar of design and evolving its lines into the modern era, as is the intended purpose of the Evolution 9 range.
Its case is made of high-intensity titanium, a metal familiar to Grand Seiko. It is considered a superior metal for dive watches due to its lightness and corrosion resistance. Unlike other titanium, High-intensity titanium has a brilliant sheen and is finished to an incredibly high standard with Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu Technique.
Zaratsu finishing is done by hand to form the case lines of the SLGA015; this is how the sharp angles are crafted on Grand Seiko cases. This model’s more curvaceous case lines are elevated by its many facets, allowing for its robust shape to appear luxurious and refined.
Its hairline-finished lugs are sleek and feature facets on either side and even its bottom, acting as mirror-finished bevels that glint in the light and reduce the visual heft from the front and sides of the 43.8mm by 13.8mm case.
The curved side profile of the timepiece is hairline-finished and surrounded by mirror-finished bevels on the top and bottom, again reducing its visual heft when viewed from its side. The lugs on the right contour towards the center of the case form faceted crown guards for an engraved screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, allowing for 200m of water resistance.
The dive bezel of this model sees an update from its predecessor with a new “high grade” shatterproof ceramic insert. Ceramic is superior to DLC insert bezels because they have a luxurious luster and are impossible to scratch. The outer edge of the bezel features large teeth with a sharp knurling that is easy to grip. It is presented in two metal finishings with polished recesses and hairline-finished outer faces.
The bezel action is crisp and comparable to the best in the industry. There is a lumed pearl at 12, and its minute markings are white in contrast to the black ceramic surface. A sapphire crystal sits flush in the bezel and has an Anti-reflective coating for maximum dial visibility.
Dial
The dial of this timepiece is inspired by the Kuroshio Current, also known as the Black Stream, that appears in the oceans that surround the Japanese archipelago. The Black Stream and its dynamic/violent tides inspire the deep black color and lavishly textured surface of the dial.
This is visually the “main character” of the watch, seen in person, it is deceivingly alive in its three-dimensional guise. A black chapter ring with white markings in one-minute increments surrounds the dial and brings cohesion.
Although beautifully textured, the dial also possesses all the right traits of a highly legible diver. All markers and hands carry generous coatings of Lumibrite. It also has a large handset and markers presented in a unique, legible format. Exclusive to the Evolution 9 models, this timepiece features a double wide index at 12 o’clock, with the rest of the markers following the typical dive-watch layout.
All markers are multifaceted for the best presentation. From its center are aviation-style cathedral hands with a broad arrow minute hand. These are hairline-finished for better contrast. Its minute hand can be seen with a lollipop counterweight.
A power reserve indicator can be found at 8.30 o’clock, displaying 5 days of power reserve. Finally, a white date window can be seen at 3 o’clock. Detail is not spared here as it has its own white frame and a lumed marker on the chapter ring beside it.
Movement
The SLGA105 is hugely defined by its incredible movement, the Caliber 9RA5, a next-generation Spring Drive movement allowing for an evolution within the Grand Seiko range, hence, birthing the Evolution 9 collection.
The 9RA5 is far superior to its “still” highly impressive predecessor, the 9R65. For reference, when the 9R65 was released in 2004, it was the first spring-driven movement able to rival the accuracy of a quartz watch, with an accuracy of plus or minus 1 second per day, also offering 72 hours of power reserve; astonishing specifications for the time.
The 9RA5 halves this accuracy to plus or minus 0.5 seconds per day, and its Dual-Size Barrels save space and expand its capacity to a 5-day power reserve. An Offset Magic Lever reduces the thickness of the 9RA5 by a considerably large 0.8mm from its predecessor, and moving the crown backward lowers the center of gravity of the timepiece for an improved wearing experience.
Finally, a One-Piece Center Bridge increases its strength, durability, and shock resistance. Additional features include a hacking seconds, a date complication with quick-set, and a power reserve indicator.
Grand Seiko is able to lead the way in movement technology due to its vertically integrated manufacturing, which allows every component and even its tools to be manufactured and developed in-house.
The watchmaker has a long history of its unwavering dedication to human and technology-related resources to offer the very best in innovation in the quest for accuracy, reliability, and value-driven luxury finishings. The watchmaker developed such an incredible “hybrid movement” like the 9RA5 due to its vast expertise in high mechanical watchmaking and industry-leading quartz technology.
Straps
The SLGA015 is exclusively equipped with a High-intensity titanium bracelet. It has a five-link design with distinctive flat links. Its material is not the only thing similar to its case, as it features primarily hairline finishings for a robust divers looks and durability and mirror beveling on the shoulders of its links to keep up with the refinement of the case; this aesthetic is in tune with the Evolution 9 style. Also in line with Evolution 9’s incremental improvements is its thicker and more solid build.
The bracelet’s lug-to-lug measures a massive 23mm and tapers aggressively down to 18mm, balancing the visual heft and improving the wrist comfort of its large case. Drilled lugs allow for easy strap changes. However, aftermarket straps will be difficult to find due to the rarity of 23mm lug-to-lug watches in the market. Its links are removable with pins and sleeves, and there are several divots on the clasp for the ideal anchoring points of the bracelet.
A ratcheting divers extension allows for incremental adjustments while the watch is on the wrist and can be extended over a dive suit if necessary. The clasp is a twin trigger release with a clamshell on top featuring an embossed Grand Seiko logo.
On Wrist Experience
Timepiece trends of today welcome the luxury dive-watch not only as an underwater tool but as a modern-looking timekeeping device that is versatile for almost any occasion. The Spring Drive 5-days Diver’s 200m SLGA015 is a formidable release for sports watch enthusiasts to consider for a go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece. However, it is let down by its performance-inspired “large” 43.8mm case diameter.
The watch can be worn proportionally on wrists that have a minimum circumference of 16cm. Those who are close to this number, like me, will find the watch to look and feel overly sporty. Therefore, the watch will appeal to a wearer with a larger wrist or a wearer with an affinity for highly legible, performance-focused luxury dive watches.
While the timepiece is on the extremes of what my wrist can accommodate, the SLGA015 is a beautiful and feature-rich offering. Its design pays tribute to iconic dive watches of the past and from its own history, while offering a modern flavor, great attention to luxury details, and unique aesthetics; all factors the timepiece is expected to deliver.
Its dial is its most distinctive feature, especially in the flesh, with a texture that tells a story about its nautical inspiration. It is dynamic, plays with the light all the time, and displays a high level of finishing that is a joy to explore. Its case and bracelet are also pleasing to the eyes, as their inherently sporty lines have been made beautiful with more facets elevated with Zaratsu hairline and mirror finishings that play with light and shadow.
Its metal composition of High-intensity titanium is a high-tech experience on the wrist that allows the watch to wear as light as a much smaller dive watch. Additionally, its bracelet design and high adjustability are positive points for its wrist comfort.
The style of this watch is on trend. Its luxurious execution, and durable construction allow it to be worn in any environment and compliment any outfit. Be it in a dive suit, with super casual clothes, or even with a suit. When you witness the smooth sweep of its seconds hand, it is always a reminder that a beast of a movement lurks inside, able to deliver incredible accuracy.
Price & Availability
The price of the SLGA015 will amount to $11,600 as a brand-new item or can be found priced between $8,000-$9,000 pre-owned. Should you wish to try on or even purchase this incredible timepiece, you can find it at any authorized dealer of Grand Seiko timepieces.
One such dealer is Exquisite Timepieces, and you can purchase the watch on our website or boutique in Naples, Florida. An authorized dealer is recommended for new or used Grand Seiko timepieces since they will most likely be able to have your desired timepiece in stock, have the correct expertise that can be relied on, and offer you added benefits like a warranty on your new or used purchase.
Conclusion
The SLGA015 enters a crowded and mature segment with the choice of many modern-day and vintage dive-watch icons, yet it is immune to the aura of even the strongest competition. It possesses the looks and the specifications of a performer, with a combination of a functional design, high-tech materials, and luxury finishings. It stands out with unique storytelling design characteristics implemented in a tasteful manner.
Last, but not least, it introduces the next generation of movement technology from the watchmaker into the dive-watch segment, which within and even outside, is considered to be revolutionary and unrivaled.
I have had the privilege of being a luxury watch collector and enthusiast for over a decade, like myself, any astute collector with a mature amount of knowledge in haute horology can appreciate the significance Grand Seiko has as a profound watchmaker that at some point in our watch journey, “blew our minds”.
Seiko is the founder of quartz technology, which brought precision timekeeping to the masses. Shortly after, it became the largest watchmaker in the world. Grand Seiko was created as a benchmark for its most brilliant minds to relentlessly create the best timepieces.
The SBGC205 is a revolutionary sports chronograph from Grand Seiko. It is an intriguing option in the realm of haute horology chronographs, a seemingly unassuming timepiece, yet, a behemoth in its display of industry-leading technology that is equally balanced with wrist charm.
In its pursuit of precision, reliability, and accuracy, this timepiece harmonizes its tribute to fine mechanical watchmaking and modern-day technology through its Spring Drive Movement.
To be discovered by its wearer is a quintessentially Japanese luxury timepiece design, fashioned in a lightweight material with supreme finishing and housing an extremely high-tech movement offering many impressive features such as a chronograph, GMT, power reserve indicator, date complication, and automatic winding.
History
In 2004 Grand Seiko finally realized a dream and a feat of 27 years with the launch of its first Spring Drive Caliber, the 9R65 in the 9R6 series. The concept of Spring Drive was to combine a traditional mainspring with an electronic regulator. The final result would deliver an accuracy of 1 second a day, equal to that of electronic watches, on which its target was initially set.
It also managed a power reserve of 72 hours, an equally astonishing feat. The first Grand Seiko Chronograph, Spring Drive Chronograph, and most accurate luxury chronograph would launch shortly after in 2007 in the 9R8 Series, the family belonging to the SBGC205, powered by the Caliber 9R86.
The SBGC205 from the Sport Collection is a second-generation model from 2017 featuring Grand Seiko Branding, updated upon the similar SBGC005 launched in 2007 that featured Seiko/Grand Seiko dual branding from when the Grand Seiko line was under the Seiko umbrella and not its own brand.
Case
At a glance, the case of the SBGC205 appeals to its Sports Collection/Chronograph nameplate. Featuring a large and legible 43.5mm case that is 16.4mm thick, sporty lines, bold pushers, and mostly hairline finishings.
Familiar to the watchmaker, it is fashioned completely in High-intensity titanium, the perfect metal for a sports chronograph of its kind due to its high strength-to-weight ratio, lightweight wearing experience, and darker rugged sheen that plays well with the sports aesthetic of the timepiece. Additionally, this metal is hypoallergenic for wearers with sensitive skin.
Grand Seiko timepieces are reputed for their exquisite Zaratsu hand finishings. Zaratsu is different to conventional polishing as it uses a metal disk with an abrasive sheet that grinds the metal surface to create ultra-flat surfaces on multiple planes brought to a sharp point, which is how sharp angles are created on Grand Seiko cases; this is done by hand.
The hairline finish called Sujime, featured mostly on the SBGC205, gives it a sporty look and scratch resistant qualities, it is also done by hand above already Zaratsu mirror finished surfaces.
Viewed in detail, the sporty case lines of the SBGC205 features sloping flanks defined by a continuous thick mirror finished chamfer that merges into hairline finished wide tapering and sloping lugs.
Its bezel is sloped and mirror finished, complimenting an open view to its dial through a Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface for enhanced legibility. The many facets and finishings of this timepiece balance its visual mass exquisitely well.
What doesn’t go unnoticed, giving it a bold design, are its large 1964 Tokyo Olympics Stopwatch inspired screw-in two stage construction chronograph pushers that allow for 100m of water resistance and have been made with large barrels with generous fluting for ease of use. They also feature mirror polish and match the winding/time setting crown of the watch.
The case-back of this timepiece is cupped in shape and measures about 3mm, it holds in place a flat transparent sapphire crystal that allows for easy viewing of its delicious 9R86 Caliber.
Dial
There is a lot to be discovered in the feature rich and high finish dial of the SBGC205. What it displays is two time zones, a 12 hour chronograph, a date, and its power reserve of 72 hours.
It takes on a handsome gilt configuration, with a glossy black dial and mostly contrasting golden indications. Its rehaut has white traces and minute indications in 5 minute intervals, along this periphery are also 24 hour indications in white. Adhering to the Grand Seiko style many facets feature on this dial so that it may sparkle with quality, these are seen on its gold plated minute/hour hands and indices that are satin finished and polished on their bevels.
Other gold plated polished surfaces are its off centered Grand Seiko logo at 11 o’clock, and its date aperture at 3 o’clock that houses a monotone black date disk that matches the dial perfectly.
The main function of the SBGC205, a 12 hour chronograph, is read through three registers. For seconds, a counterweighted lancet style silver hand rotates from its center for easy readability. The minutes and hours are sub-dials with white markings and silver hands that are stacked vertically around the date window on the right side of the watch, with minutes placed at 1.30 o‘clock measuring up to 30 minutes, and hours placed at 4.30 o’clock measuring up to 12 hours.
For symmetry, the left side of the dial is balanced with a small-seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock for the running seconds with white indications and a gold hand instead of silver. Similarly, for its power reserve, a gold hand that rotates along a 90 degree axis with white indications can be seen at 7 o’clock.
Finally, for viewing of additional time zones, a GMT hand with an arrow indication in silver attached to a black stem that camouflages itself with the dial can be seen rotating along its dial from its center.
Movement
The Spring Drive technology that powers the SBGC205 is completely unique to Grand Seiko and cannot be replicated by any other watchmaker in the industry. This feat has been achieved due to Grand Seiko’s vertically integrated manufacture; which means everything is made in house, and due to the watchmaker’s vast expertise in mechanical techniques and industry leading quartz technology developed for its own watches.
The Spring Drive 9R86 Caliber seen in the SBGC205 is the most precise spring driven chronograph in the world. Delivering a precision of plus or minus 1 second a day, and measures elapsed time up to 12 hours through its chronograph with the same accuracy. It is automatic winding and has an impressive 72-hour power reserve.
The movement is equipped with high mechanical watchmaking technology, with its vertical clutch and column wheel configuration ensuring precise operation. Its glide motion hand powered by an electronic regulator stops instantly as its pusher is pressed, allowing it to measure time exactly and accurately.
This accuracy is helped by its unique two stage chronograph pushers allowing for instant action, it has also been designed with comfort in mind and produces a satisfying click with the right amount of resistance.
Additional features include a power reserve indicator, a date complication, and a GMT function that allows its wearer to measure an additional time zone.
The 9R86 is a complex Caliber with over 400 parts and 50 jewels. It is assembled in the hands of a small number of Grand Seiko artisans within its Shinshu Watch Studio in the Nagano Prefecture of Japan.
Its finishing is superb with Grand Seiko’s distinct striping, called line graduation stripes. The column wheel as well as gold-colored chronograph minutes and hour wheels are visible, allowing for the chronograph mechanism to be viewed while in action. For the spring drive enthusiast, the Glide Wheel can also be seen in motion.
Straps
The titanium cased SBGC205 comes equipped only with a suitable titanium bracelet. Just like its case, it is hand finished and therefore treated to the watchmakers Zaratsu finishings. It is a five-link bracelet that has hairline finishings as well as mirror finishings. The hairline finishings occupy most of its surface area, suitably so for a rugged sports watch of its kind.
The mirror finishings feature on the two smaller links surrounding the center links as well as on the edges on the outer links in the form of bevels, this is done to elegantly tidy up the ruggedness and visual heft of a mostly hairline finished bracelet that offers the practicality of less scratches through wear.
The bracelet lug width measures 21 millimeters and tapers toward a three-fold clasp with a twin trigger release. The clasp features a golden Grand Seiko logo to match the gilt aesthetic of the timepiece. At 21 millimeters, aftermarket straps cannot easily be found for this timepiece, however, there are some strap makers who cater to this sizing.
Ergonomically, the light-weight construction of the bracelet, rounded links, and large channels visible from the underside in between the links allow for a comfortable and breathable on-wrist experience. Visually, the sporty and faceted bracelet design pairs perfectly with the case of the watch.
On-Wrist Experience
The SBGC205 is a compelling timepiece that ticks all the boxes for what is expected of a luxury sports watch. A 43.5mm case with 16.4mm of thickness cannot go unnoticed, however, for the incredibly vast feature-set that it offers the wearer and for the sake of legibility, this timepiece is a great performer. Additionally as a sports timepiece, the execution of a lightweight metal such as titanium with a comfortable bracelet make this watch easy to wear for its size.
Its cupped case-back with a thickness of 3mm and its sloped case and bezel allow it to fit slimmer on the wrist, therefore capable of sliding under a cuff. It can be argued that a reasonable lug-to-lug of 51.2cm allows this watch to be worn on wrists as small as even 14cmm, but would suit a larger one perfectly.
Its pushers have a “ready, set, go” feature allowing it to function like a camera shutter, where the user can depress halfway for the start of an event and press down for a defined click when an event begins, a satisfying timing experience for its wearer. This can make the SBGC205 the perfect companion for timing any sports event, ideally belonging to the racetrack paddock thanks to its luxury racing aesthetic.
As a luxury sports watch, versatility is key to its design language, therefore, it is an easy companion to formal wear for the office or even casual wear for a night out with your friends.
Price & Availability
The SBGC205 has been recently discontinued and replaced with steel only variants, therefore, it is recommended to be sourced and purchased from an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko timepieces like Exquisite Timepieces, that can provide the timepiece in a reliable condition, with an after sales warranty, and also offer worldwide shipping.
Exquisite Timepieces had this in stock when it was new for a retail price of $9,800, it has also been listed as “used” in the past for as low as $5,500. A brand new piece might be hard to come by, but should cost you approximately $7,000.
Conclusion
I own a Panda Daytona, a luxury chronograph timepiece that is loved by a vast majority of collectors and considered to be the benchmark in luxury chronographs. In comparison, I believe the SBGC205 breaks out of the conventional mold of what is typically expected of a luxury chronograph watch, with its own Japanese philosophy of design and features.
The SBGC205 lives up to the hype surrounding Grand Seiko watchmaking, executing on all points of reference. It is a fabulously finished timepiece, with a number of impressive complications, delivered in a wearable, versatile, and well designed package. It is a timepiece that redefines the accuracy of all other chronographs, and one that defines the high rated legacy of luxury Japanese watchmaking for decades on in a timeless fashion.
Omega is a Goliath in the world of precision watchmaking. The brand’s pioneering spirit has made it one of the most loved and historically significant brands. The journey Omega has taken to simply tell the time accurately cannot be compared to any other; they are true innovators with a large and meaningful collection.
History of Omega Watches
A pursuit of accuracy and precision, founded by Louis Brandt as La Generale Watch Co in 1848 in a family-owned villa located in the small Swiss village La Chaux, the company we now know as Omega was only ever dubbed Omega after its second generation of family watchmakers took over in 1879. The Brant Brothers, in 1894, revolutionized watchmaking with the launch of the 19-Linge Calibre, an extremely accurate movement that could be serviced easily by any watchmaker.
Bringing us groundbreaking technology by combining the winding and setting of the time via the stem and crown, the Brant Brothers crowned this achievement “Omega”, a name they deemed to signify ultimate accomplishment. Through this movement’s huge success and provenance, the company was later renamed Omega Watches and Co and shortened by 1903 to Omega.
Timekeeper of the Olympic Games
In 1931, Omega set precision records in all 6 trials at the Geneva Observatory. Its commitment to record-breaking precision caught the attention of the Olympic committee, so since 1932 Omega has been the Official Timekeeper of 30 Olympic games.
Military Heritage
Between 1940 and 1945, Omega delivered over 110,000 timepieces to the British MOD, trusted for their water resistance, shock resistance, and anti-magnetism. In 1948, to celebrate 100 years of Omega, we were introduced to the first Seamster model to commemorate their military history in making reliable water-resistant tool watches that were increasingly in demand from the consumer market.
First Constellation
By 1952 Omega launched the Constellation, named after the medallion engraved on its case back, displaying the Geneva Observatory surrounded by 8 stars, paying homage to Omega’s 8 record-breaking exploits in chronometric precision. This model was later followed by the Deville and the Ladymatic, expanding on their line of dressier offerings.
1957 Trilogy
In 1957, Omega expanded its collection with a trio of professional watches, each positioned to conquer its domain. The Seamaster 300 for diving deeper, the Railmaster for supreme anti-magnetism (being able to withstand an industry first of 1000 gauss), and the Speedmaster with the now legendary Lemania-based Calibre-321 chronograph movement for racing.
The Moonwatch
In the early 1960s, NASA launched the Apollo Project; they also set out to find a watch capable of withstanding the elements of space exploration, testing them to the point of destruction. Omega, Rolex, Longines, and Hamilton each submitted a watch.
But Omega’s Speedmaster was the only one that survived and was certified by NASA for all manned space missions and extravehicular activity in 1965. It is still today the only watch with such an achievement.
The Speedmaster Professional would become the first watch worn on the moon in 1969 during the Apollo 11 mission, forever dubbed “the Moonwatch”. In 1970 during the Apollo 13 mission, a stranded crew equipped with Speedmasters were able to successfully time a manual 14-second engine burn to correctly align their damaged spacecraft into the earth’s atmosphere and bring them back home safely.
To show Omega gratitude for its contributions to the success of its human space flight missions and the triumphant return of the Apollo 13 crew, NASA presented Omega with the Silver Snoopy Award in 1970, representing the highest distinction awarded by NASA Astronauts.
Co-Axial Escapement
In 1993 Omega purchased a patent for the Co-Axial escapement, the first practical mechanical escapement introduced in 250 years. Invented by English watchmaker George Daniels in 1976, the Co-Axial escapement reduces friction in the movement, a common issue in the traditionally used Swiss Lever Escapement.
By 1999, Omega was finally able to adapt a movement to the Co-Axial Escapement, making the Calibre-2500 available. In 2013 Omega launched the Co-Axial-8508, the first truly antimagnetic movement. Capable of withstanding over 15,000 gausses through the use of non-ferromagnetic materials.
The movement itself resists magnetism; it saw no need for a protective inner case, allowing for date windows and a transparent case back. This technology paved the way for a new watch certification process in 2015, the METAS Certification.
Passing a series of 8 independent tests and performing within the parameters set by COSC, Omega now qualifies its timepieces as Master Chronometers. The key attribute of the METAS Chronometer Certification is that it ensures testing of magnetic fields up to 15,000 gausses, establishing a new quality standard within the watch industry.
James Bond
In 2021, Omega hit the silver screen for the 9th time, co-starring with the world’s favorite spy, James Bond, in No Time To Die. Unlike many other Bond Seamasters, this watch took inspiration from Daniel Craig’s personal feedback on what would become the ultimate tool Seamaster, with a penchant for style.
What Is the Status of Omega Today
Omega’s competitive price point and better availability in the luxury watch segment generally allow us to position it as a great investment.
Omega’s status today is that of a seasoned high, pedigree watchmaker, with currently the most diverse offerings. In unrestrained fashion, it has proved to be continually innovative and stays true to its values in delivering the industry’s finest accuracy, precision, and robustness.
Its collection continues to be driven forward into the future of high watchmaking, with its own unique design language, case materials, and complications.
The Best Omega Chronograph Watches
For anyone who has racing in their hearts, a passion for humankind’s exploits in space travel, or any chronograph complication enthusiast, Omega’s chronograph offerings are unparalleled in diversity and history.
Following the launch of the 1957 Speedmaster, a watch initially intended for racing enthusiasts, the Speedmaster went on to conquer timekeeping in space as we know it today. Such accolades and watchmaking prowess have enabled Omega to release many diverse chronograph models, each with a different story through its aesthetics, functions, and heritage.
The Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is arguably the most influential and talked about watch ever made. The only timepiece to be certified by NASA for all manned space missions and extravehicular activity since 1965, this watch was part of the most remarkable journey in the history of all humankind—the journey to the Moon and back.
It shares a remarkable resemblance to its predecessors and introductory models from 1963-1969. This is a huge testament to the legacy of this model, a design language that remains timeless. Due to its long lineage, however, the continued development of this model has seen it lose some of its beloved vintage cues.
In 2021, Omega cleverly revamped the model, re-incorporating collectors’ favorite vintage elements and refining the model incrementally. We saw the return of a stepped dial, the dot over 90 on the tachymeter bezel, a revamped bracelet more fitting to its original aesthetic that rolls on the wrist better and tapers beautifully, and a new still 42mm case that’s half a millimeter thinner and a millimeter shorter to give us a better wearing experience.
The most significant overhaul is in its movement, the 3861, a METAS Certified Master Chronometer manual-wind chronograph movement, now with a Co-Axial escapement and 50-hour power reserve.
Like previous models, it is offered with a Hesalite crystal or a sapphire crystal with a sapphire caseback. The Hesalite models are equipped with a nylon fabric strap ($6,300) or a thoroughly brushed stainless steel bracelet ($6,600). The sapphire models either come with a leather strap ($7,200) or with a brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet ($7,600).
The Speedmaster Caliber-321, also known as “the Ed White Speedmaster”, is a 2019 re-issue of the 3rd generation Speedmaster, the watch worn by Ed White during America’s first-ever spacewalk in 1965. This model brings back the legendary Caliber-321, an essential part of the Speedmaster’s original history.
Inspired by the incredible Lemania-2310, the fabled Calibre-321, was the first movement certified by NASA for all manned space missions and extravehicular activity in 1965. It later powered all Speedmasters worn during the Apollo missions, including all six moon landings.
The Calibre-321 is so unique that Omega produces it separately from all its other calibers, except the tourbillions. It is put together in a special Atelier by Omega’s master watchmakers, each caliber assembled and regulated by the same person using a two-fold assembly method.
These manufacturing characteristics have made the Calibre-321 very limited in production numbers. At $14,600, its retail price is similar to that of a stainless steel Rolex Daytona. Its classical crown-guard-less case of 39.7mm makes for a more elegant wearing experience than the Professional Speedmaster.
It has a ceramic bezel, a laser-etched Omega logo on the sapphire crystal, galvanized dial, and a legendary and visually beautiful Sedna Gold plated movement. This is a special Speedmaster for the price of a regular Daytona.
This year marks the 10th anniversary of the sensational Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, originally launched in Baselworld 2013. The first official all-black Speedmaster, a huge deal for us fanboys, is a progressive model of the Speedmaster Co-Axial Calibre-9300 Chronograph launched in 2011.
A non-Professional model for those who love the NASA heritage, cult status, and design of the original; but require the practicality of a date window, a timezone function, and a 60-hour power-reserve automatic movement.
It has a twin register sub-dial layout rather than the Professional’s triple, preserving the same functions and delivering an uncluttered aesthetic. The Dark Side of the Moon’s 44.25mm case is crafted from a single block of zirconium oxide ceramic, the dial, pushers, and pin buckle are also made to match. The ceramic case has satin-brushed and polished facets just like its steel compatriot.
Despite its larger size and thickness of 16.2mm, it is a fairly light and wearable watch due to its ceramic construction, calfskin/textile strap, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug distance. It originally retailed for $12,000, nearly double the professional model, yet worthwhile to many collectors for its entirely new novelty within the Speedmaster lineage.
A call to the 21st century and development in the realm of quartz and digital technology saw Omega broaden its timekeeping capabilities with the launch of the X-33. First introduced as “the Mars watch”, the 2019 Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 in its third iteration is still used today.
Developed, tested, and qualified by the European Space Agency, it is the preferred choice for NASA Astronauts and cosmonauts for onboard activities on the International Space Station. The Speedmaster Skywalker X33, fashioned in Grade-2 Titanium with a ceramic bezel inlay, is an all-out industrial design taking the Moonwatch into the modern era.
Its dial features analog hands and LCD windows, with a large case size of 45mm for easy readability and legibility. The X-33 displays 3 different time zones, a chronograph, a timer, a Mission Elapsed Timer, a Phase Elapsed Timer, 3 programmable alarms (80 decibels loud), and a perpetual calendar.
Regarding its pricing, it has a retail price of approximately $5,750, but as of writing this article, far less in the secondary market. The X-33 is one exceptional example of a non-mechanical, purpose-derived tool watch that was created for the demands of modern-day astronauts with a raft of functionality that can even be adapted to everyday use on earth.
The Best Omega Dive Watches
Omega’s military background during World War II saw massive developments in shock resistance, anti-magnetism, and waterproofness and ushered in a new era of diving timekeeping technology.
This led to the release of the Seamaster in 1948, the Professional Seamaster 300 in 1957, the extreme Ploprof in 1967, the revamped Seamaster Diver 300M in 1993 that became 007’s first Seamaster featured in Golden Eye 1995, the dressier Aqua Terra in 2002, and the modernized Planet Ocean in 2005 that pushed the envelope in embracing sporty utility and luxury. Omega now boasts a dive watch collection for every recreational or serious diving need.
The Seamaster Diver 300M is easily identified by its fans as “the Bond Seamaster”. On the silver screen, Omega took charge of its storytelling prowess and showed the world that it was within its ethos to produce a luxury tool watch capable of living up to the style and technical expectations of the world’s greatest fictional spy.
Launched in 2018, celebrating its own 25th anniversary, the latest iteration of the Seamaster Diver 300M is now a Co-Axial Master Chronometer using the Calibre-8800, its most significant update that can be seen through the display case back.
This model is currently available in 5 steel variations, including the ‘Seaweed’ Green model released in 2022. Through its experimentation with ceramic, Omega has pushed its capabilities with the material extensively in the modern era.
The updated ceramic bezel comes with white enamel inlays, the ceramic dial is laser etched with the beloved wave pattern, the skeletonized hands have been updated, the now color-matched date wheel has been moved to 6 o’clock giving more symmetry to the dial, the case size has increased to 42mm making it more legible, the iconic turned lugs remain, and there’s also an updated cone-shaped helium escape valve.
Priced at $5,300 on a rubber strap and $5,600 on a steel bracelet, it is technically, and qualitatively one of the most advanced dive watches you can buy for under $10,000.
The Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M, with a stainless steel case diameter of 43.5mm and 16.1mm thick, is a beefed-up version of a traditional Seamaster diver 300M, offering twice the depth rating (600m). It pushes the envelope with a heritage-inspired design but is still modern.
Unique to it is the usage of playful 70s colors, with 4 color variants available in steel, featuring heavy or restrained use of orange elements in combination with the primary color. This model offers a black dial made of polished ceramic, with orange Arabic numerals, and a date window at 3 o’clock.
Its black ceramic bezel, for the first time, features a rubberized inlay on the first 15 minutes of the diving scale; the rest is filled with Omega’s Liquidmetal. The release of this third-generation Planet Ocean 600m in 2016 made it one of the first models to receive the amazing Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre-8800 movement.
At the time, this showed Omega’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of luxury sports utility and innovation with this model, the Planet Ocean’s mission statement, ever since. It is priced at $6,700 on a bracelet and $6,450 on a rubber strap.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “No Time To Die” (ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001)
Through Omega’s pursuit to create the ultimate Bond watch, in 2020, we received the Seamaster Diver 300M No Time To Die Special Edition. Designed with personal feedback from actor Daniel Craig, who plays James Bond in the 2021 movie No Time To Die.
Made lighter and tougher for Bond in his action-packed missions, much like a stripped-down 911 GT3 RS built for blitzing the Nurburgring, the Seamaster No Time To Die features a 42mm case and bracelet fashioned in lightweight Grade-2 titanium.
It is stripped of the date complication, giving a serious tool watch aesthetic, and made slimmer with the removal of its transparent case back, replaced by one engraved with the 007 and broad-arrow symbol. Less is more here.
The broad arrow marking also finds its way onto the dial to highlight its military inspiration. The dial is sported in rich tropical brown with faux caramel patina on its markers and hands. Paired with a matching lumed anodized aluminum bezel meant to age and wear gracefully with time.
It also features a domed sapphire with a sexy tapering milanese titanium bracelet on a deployant clasp. The whole watch is vintage-inspired but integrated uniquely and beautifully. It is priced at $9,500 on a bracelet and $8,400 on a Bond-style nato.
Water resistance is essential and celebrated in watchmaking, especially within sports watch segments. Naturally, brands such as Rolex and Omega have constantly innovated to push these boundaries to broaden and improve their lineup. At the very top of the food chain now sits the Ultradeep, which in 2019 beat Rolex to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, the deepest point in the ocean, by a few meters as part of a challenging expedition of 5 deepest dives.
This was done thanks to Omega’s infusion of Liquid Metal technology into the crystal that can endure 22 tons of direct pressure. In 2021, the Planet Ocean 6000M Ultradeep, a commercial model, was finally made available with a water resistance of 6,000 meters; this is now the halo model of Omega’s dive watch lineup.
At 45.5mm and 18.1mm thick, it handles its supreme water resistance as gracefully as the Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller. The Ultradeep is a science experiment in unique proprietary Omega materials. Featuring an O-MEGASTEEL case, black ceramic bezel, diving scale in Liquidmetal, blue to black lacquered gradient dial, 18K white Gold hands and hour markers, and an O-MEGASTEEL patented adjustable dive bracelet.
Housing a Master Chronometer Calibre-8912, the Ultradeep is one of the most hardcore wearable tool watches on offer today. It is priced at $12,000 on a bracelet and $11,700 on a rubber strap.
Best Everyday Omega Watches
From the utilitarian-derived tool watches in the Omega collection, a few models are able to find the sweet spot in the form of versatility in everyday use. The Aqua Terra, Globemaster, and Railmaster are current offerings that thread the fine line of robustness and refinement extremely well.
Born in the 21st century, the Aqua Terra was Omega’s take on a less professional, more elegant, refined dive watch aesthetic. For a more sophisticated look, it ditches the diving bezel for a polished one and is attached to a highly polished center flat link bracelet with a butterfly clasp.
The Aqua Terra is now heralded as a versatile daily wearer in the Omega dive watches collection with a great water resistance of 150m. From 2017, the case is now a symmetrical 41mm instead of 41.5mm, and the teak pattern on the dial is now horizontal, more identifiable to wooden decks of luxury sailboats as intended by its designers.
Also, the date window has been moved to 6 o’clock giving more symmetry to the dial. The most significant update is its addition of the METAS Certified Chronometer Calibre-8900 with 60 hours of power reserve, making it a serious contender as a robust, refined, uncompromised daily wearer. Priced at $5,900 on a steel bracelet, $5,700 on rubber, and $5,400 on leather.
In 2015, Omega chose to launch the Constellation Globemaster and debut its first METAS Certified Master Chronometer, the Calibre-8900. As a successor to the model introduced to celebrate a century of watchmaking by Omega, and a history of housing top-tier movements, the new Globemaster would rewrite the technical script.
With an elegant pie pan dial reminiscent of the 1952 model and a fully brushed modern-vintage sized 39mm diameter by 12.6mm thin case with a steel fluted bezel reminiscent of the Genta designed 70s models, the new marries its vintage aesthetics of different eras to look like a modern, sophisticated everyday watch.
Not forgetting its history, set into its sapphire caseback, is a relief medallion of the Geneva Observatory surrounded by 8 stars. With a 5-pointed star to finish off the dial, its overall design uses a lot of symbolism to tell the story of its achievements within the Omega lineup. Priced at $7,100 on a leather strap and $7,500 on a bracelet, the Globemaster is a tasteful, sporty, and elegant timepiece.
In 2018, we saw the launch of the new Railmaster, a reworked heritage model of the original 1957 Railmaster introduced for railway staff or anyone who worked close to magnetic fields.
Working with a timeless aesthetic, we have a fully brushed stainless steel case and bracelet, a heavily sun-brushed dial offered in black, grey, and denim blue, classic 3-6-9-12 painted markings, cut-out vintage style faux patina indices, and brushed hands to create modern vintage inspired daily wear tool watch.
At 40mm in diameter and 12mm thick, it is overall a universally wearable size. The original Railmaster could reach an industry first of 1000 gauss magnetic fields, and the new one finally gets the METAS Certified Master Chronometer Calibre-8806 able to withstand magnetism of 15,000 gauss.
The Railmaster is a tempting tool watch for $5,200 on a bracelet and $4,900 on a strap.
Best Dress Omega Watches
A good dress watch generally sacrifices conventional materials and finishes for a more elegant less-robust representation of a time-telling instrument. Generally, this requires better finishing capabilities and more intricate tolerances, with restraint from industrial design and favoring classical beauty and minimalism.
The De Ville Trésor is Omega’s relaunch of the original Trésor from 1949 that housed a legendary caliber for the time. The design has been integrated timelessly into the modern age. With a 40mm case size, it wears its past inspiration nicely.
It features a silver opaline dial with a domed vintage clous de Paris structure, a date window positioned at 6 o’clock, gold stick hour indices, and dauphine hands, matching the 10.6mm thin Sedna-Gold case. Overall, it’s a design focusing on simple elegance with high-quality watchmaking, finishing, and materials.
Underneath it all is a high-quality movement, the Master Co-Axial Calibre 8511, a manual wind with 60hr power reserve. It is priced at $14,000.
The Omega De Ville Prestige, available since 1994 as Omega’s dress watch offering, now with an automatic movement, a power reserve indicator, and a date, is a refined dress watch with a few conveniences. Its movement is the automatic METAS Certified Master Chronometer Calibre-8810.
This 41mm stainless steel model has a domed PVD platinum-gold dial and PVD Sedna-Gold hands with altering Roman numerals and cabochon indexes. At $5,400, with its advanced movement, elegant looks, and dimensions, it is a great offering for a dress watch that follows all the rules.
Special Omega Watches
Omega’s thirst for innovation has allowed them to create a few distinctive models with a quirky tool-derived purpose or for the purpose of showing off its ultimate representations in the form of high complications.
Omega still retains the unique ’70s-inspired Ploprof in their dive-watch collection. During its time, the original Ploprof was legendary, utilizing its mono-block case to rival technology like the helium escape valve.
The Seamaster Ploprof 600 had a unique aesthetic reminiscent of its time from 1970, an era for quirky tool-inspired design. It was heralded for being the most robust dive watch on offer, and although its aesthetics have stayed polarizing, it works for being a tough watch developed for and with COMEX divers.
Following its re-launch in 2009 and technology advancing over 40 years, it now utilizes a helium escape valve, making servicing easier. It now features a depth rating of 1200 meters, twice the depth as before, and as of 2015, is offered with a METAS Certified Master Chronometer Calibre-9812.
This model comes with an electric blue ceramic bezel with Super-Luminova markings, a lacquered white dial with orange aluminum and varnished blue hands, a Grade-5 titanium case and clasp, with a Grade-2 titanium polished shark-proof mesh bracelet to make up a fun, retro, and tough dive-watch. It is priced at $12,600.
Omega De Ville Prestige (ref. 434.13.41.21.06.001)
The Omega De Ville Prestige, available since 1994 as Omega’s dress watch offering, now with an automatic movement, a power reserve indicator, and a date, is a refined dress watch with a few conveniences. Its movement is the automatic METAS Certified Master Chronometer Calibre-8810.
This 41mm stainless steel model has a domed PVD platinum-gold dial and PVD Sedna-Gold hands with altering Roman numerals and cabochon indexes. At $5,400, with its advanced movement, elegant looks, and dimensions, it is a great offering for a dress watch that follows all the rules.
An achievement in watchmaking can always be celebrated with another achievement that further emphasizes a brand’s capabilities. This is the case with the De Ville Tourbillon, with the first-ever manual winding central tourbillon movement to be Master Chronometer Certified.
This watch is an exercise in Omega delivering haute horlogerie level watchmaking, in combination with the robustness of their everyday watches. The best of Omega’s proprietary materials are used to match its high complication. Its 43mm case is a blend of Sedna-Gold and Canopus-Gold.
Its Sedna-Gold dial is treated in black PVD, and polished Sedna-Gold indexes and hands are visible. Its seconds hand is set in the tourbillon titanium bridge, giving it a distinctively theatrical, high-complication look. With a Sedna-Gold movement at the back to enjoy, this watch comes with a heavy price tag of $183,500.
Conclusion
With over two centuries of industry-leading watchmaking technology, Omega has maintained a legacy of being the most approachable, illustrious, and trustworthy partner in humanity’s pioneering expeditions in outer space, at the deepest point in the ocean, in 30 Olympic Games, and on the silver screen.
A passion for reliable chronometric precision to be used in the real world has created legacies upon which Omega’s storied collection is built. Looking into the future, Omega’s diverse and legendary collection offers a great platform for evolution and innovation, a timeless luxury that will be enjoyed by its collectors for decades and centuries to come.
Modern timekeeping by virtue of mechanical clocks was first introduced during the 13th century. Since then, innovation has taken its natural course to make timekeeping far more accessible to us.
With the pursuit of accuracy and reliability, timekeeping devices have consistently evolved into more robust, tougher, and better-built instruments in the modern day. They have become essential tools capable of being used in the harshest and most alien environments known to man.
About Tough Watches
Prior to the 20th century, watches were mainly used by aristocrats and carried in a pocket in the form of pocket watches. They are now considered delicate, simply revealing that technology and modern use cases for timekeeping were not invented back then.
By 1904, this changed with the launch of the Cartier Santos Dumont, the first wristwatch, pilot’s watch, and, as a result, the first tough tool watch.
Wartime would inspire more tool-oriented innovation across watchmakers to produce watches that could survive the elements. “Trench watches”, as they called them, became essential tools for survival. Water resistance was in its infancy during this era, with watchmakers like Hamilton experimenting with Canteen-styled crowns.
In 1953, we saw the dawning of the first dive watches invented by Blancpain and Rolex. The world’s fascination with underwater exploration proved to be the ultimate test of the toughness of wristwatches. To this day, water resistance is an essential characteristic of a tough watch.
By today’s standards, a tough watch must be built with durable materials, be antimagnetic, accurate, shock-resistant, water-resistant, and have its form follow function. Technology today has made tough watches abundant for us; their purpose, however, may vary based on their use case.
What to Look for When Buying Tough Watches
Aficionados will be familiar with identifying the unique characteristics watches of today make available to us in the form of toughness. Many popular models – like the Submariner, Explorer, Seamaster, SKX, and many more that have now become versatile daily drivers – have a proven tool watch DNA that often inspires and reassures our purchase.
Design & Materials
When considering the design and the materials used for tough watches, both characteristics must go hand in hand with the notion that form follows function. Tough watches are easy to identify for their intended purpose, be it diving, flight, fieldwork, or exploration.
They are made available with different features such as dive or navigation bezels, crown guards or protectors, legible dials (with lume), protective grills, straps or bracelets, and rugged case shapes or sizes to withstand the elements it was designed for.
Materials also stretch the imagination with variations in steels, bronzes, plastics, rubber, titanium, ceramics, and carbon composites in order to complement their design, purpose, look, and feel.
Build Quality & Durability
Build quality and durability in the form of case construction, accuracy, anti-magnetism, shock resistance, water resistance, and anti-corrosion are key aspects to consider when buying a tough watch.
Even some $100 resin G-Shock models have carbon core guards for increased toughness, rigidity, and durability over time. Superior water resistance is usually the most favored characteristic in this segment, as higher water resistance often boasts a higher level of engineering implemented into a watch case design.
Price
Technology has made tough watches far more accessible in terms of price, with many variations of timepieces that can perform a challenging task or live a tough life.
It may be a manual-wind Panerai or even a digital G-Shock Mudmaster; if your budget is deep or shallow, you can still match the specifications and get equal amounts of toughness with different novelties to be enjoyed by different watchmakers.
15 Toughest Watches in the Market
With that said, let’s have a look at the 15 best tough watches you can buy today:
Timex Ironman Original 30 Shock
The Ironman Original 30 Shock is a digital watch designed with outdoor athletes in mind and inspired by the original 1986 Ironman model offered by Timex. In its heyday, this was the Apple Watch Ultra, but today, it can be considered a timeless essential with its “unimposing” retro design, feature set, and price (of only $70).
It comes equipped with three main functions: a countdown timer, an Indiglo light-up dial (invented by Timex in the 90s), and an alarm function. For many, this will be all they need in terms of functionality. It has a 42mm resin case inspired in design by minimalism, a simple black/grey colorway, and uses pops of yellow text hinting at its outdoor-appropriate sportiness.
It is attached to a resin strap, making it perfect for outdoor activities and contributing to a weightless wearing experience. It is also water-resistant to 200 meters, making it suitable for almost any sports environment.
The GWG-2000 is the ultimate G-Shock, built to endure the harshest field environments. As its name implies, the Mudmaster’s party trick is its Mud-Resist structure push-buttons (now improved) that will never allow any mud, grit, sand, or concrete to enter your watch.
This is the newest iteration of the Mudmaster, replacing the GWG-1000. In its evolution, it is now 1.9mm slimmer and 13 grams lighter than its predecessor, thanks to the usage of a carbon core guard structure—new to this series—that also improves its overall strength.
It is the first G-Shock to feature forged carbon components, contributing to its lightness, toughness, and supercar-like aesthetics. Its rugged exterior design is inspired by professional gear, with fine texturing on its resin band, checked surface texture on its crown, and ribbed guards to protect its front buttons, amplifying its toughness.
Not only is it built and looks ready for the battlefield, but it also has an endless toolbox of features that you can count on when you need them most. Other aesthetically tough features include its sapphire glass and a highly legible (analog/digital) fully lumed dial with a “Super Illuminator” double LED light. Being one of Casio’s flagship models, it will cost you $800.
Victorinox is world-famous for its knives and tools. They also make tool watches, and for their 130th anniversary, they decided to make a watch that symbolizes and celebrates the tough tool ethos of the brand.
To achieve this, they devised a series of 130 extreme homologation tests, including a 10-meter drop resistance test, a temperature shock resistance test, and an 8-ton pressure resistance test (driving a 64-ton tank over a watch). The result was the I.N.O.X watch collection, standing for “Impact Neutralizing Object for the Xtremes”.
The 241813 is a Quartz Professional Diver variant, water resistant to 200m, that is ISO-625 certified. It is characterized by a chunky design with bulky dimensions of 45mm x 14mm, made entirely of sandblasted titanium, with crown guards and a 60-minute graduated unidirectional dive bezel with deep beveling reminiscing an octagonal shape for easy manipulation.
Protected by sapphire crystal, it has a unique blue camouflage dial, fully lumed, with legible round and square numerals. Paying tribute to its nautical roots, it is equipped with a paracord strap that fits securely over a wetsuit. It also comes with a rubber strap. This watch is now discontinued (replaced with a steel variant) and can be found for upwards of $600.
Citizen Promaster Tough (ref. BN0211-50E)
The Promaster Tough is a field watch from Citizen with a spec sheet that fully lives up to its name. It features a monocoque case made of a 2-piece construction without needing a caseback, offering extreme rigidity, shock resistance, and anti-magnetism.
It also uses a “Super Titanium” coating on its steel case and bracelet, making it 5 times harder than traditional stainless steel. With a 42mm diameter case featuring a flat raised bezel and crown guards, it offers the sportiness and legibility expected of a tough field watch.
Yet, thanks to its slimness of only 10.1mm and its well-made h-link bracelet, it is extremely versatile and can easily slide under a cuff. Protected by a sapphire crystal, its black, fully lumed dial adds to its versatility with an elegant and clean approach to its design.
Housed inside is Citizens own Eco-Drive technology (solar), allowing it to run purely on light. This is a discontinued model with an original retail price of $495.
Luminox Bear Grylls Survival Series 3741
The Bear Grylls Survival Series 3741 is an outdoor timepiece that embodies British adventurer Bear Grylls “survival” lifestyle. Made by Luminox, a brand that is famous for its cutting-edge luminosity and has been a partner of the Navy Seals for over 25 years, its watches have proven to be so tough and capable that they are considered “first-line gear”.
The 3741 is a quartz-powered watch equipped with a chronograph function, a date, and a removable compass attached to its rubber strap. It sports an all-black aesthetic, with hints of orange and white adding contrast and sportiness.
It has a 45mm by 14mm case made of Carbonox, a carbon composite that is six times lighter than steel and three times lighter than titanium and is shock and scratch-resistant. Attached is a matching Carbonox notched dive bezel that has 60-minute indications, a tachymeter scale, and a lume pip at zero.
Under its sapphire crystal is an intricate dial with a three-register chronograph layout and a date window at 6 o’clock. What is special about the Luminox lume is that it uses tritium gas tubes, providing a constant glow for up to 25 years. This watch is priced at $995.
Since 1941, Marathon has been supplying watches and timing instruments to the allied forces for military use. It operates from Canada, producing its timepieces in Switzerland. The Pilot’s Navigator was created in the 1980s as an answer to the U.S. armed forces, whose pilots needed a legible watch in the cockpit that was able to handle pressure changes and g-forces endured during flight.
This model is fully made with High-Impact Composite Fibreshell, finished in a matte black that gives it a stealth aesthetic. Its case is 41mm by 14mm, attached to a nato-strap, and offers versatility in its sizing due to its block construction, which helps the lugs feel like part of the case.
The case is asymmetrical, rounded off at 3 o’clock, allowing it to act as a crown guard. Its bezel is bi-directional with white contrasting 12-hour markings and a lume pip at 12 o’clock. Under its sapphire crystal is a black dial with white contrasting Arabic numerals in a 12-hour and 24-hour (military) layout.
It also features a date window at 4.30 and a red-tipped (fighter plane-shaped) second hand. It is powered by a quartz movement and is 50m water resistant. This watch is available for civilians to purchase for $480.
Damasko DSub50
Damasko, founded in 1994, has a history of making high-performance materials for the aviation industry; they also supplied watch cases to Sinn. The DSub50 is a heavily engineered serious dive watch from the German watchmaker, featuring a case made of austenitic German submarine steel, which is nearly twice the strength of regular steel, highly corrosion-resistant, and anti-magnetic.
It has a 43mm by 12.6mm case, and it wears smaller due to its short, steep lugs, allowing its rubber strap to contour to smaller wrists. Its case and bezel are coated fully with black DAMEST, and its uni-directional dive bezel has contrasting white 60-minute indications with a lume pip at zero.
Under its sapphire crystal, it is complemented with a matching black dial (fully lumed), with white contrasting hands and markings, and without unnecessary text beside the brand logo, making it highly legible. There is a date window at 4.30 o’clock in black that also blends in well. It has an overall very clean design and makes for a serious-looking dive watch, perfect on a dark wetsuit.
This model is water-resistant to 300m and has a screw-in crown that can be used underwater. It is powered by the Damasko caliber A26-2 (with a 42-hour power reserve). It comes at a price of approximately $2,700, offering value for its uncompromising engineering and design. It is what we call a no-nonsense tool watch.
Launched in 2008, the now-updated BeLOWZERO has become a mainstay in Hamilton’s Khaki collection. Many would know this watch to feature in two recent blockbuster films, The Martian, its main character, and Tenet, in which it was part of the narrative. They were sci-fi action plots set in the future, a tribute to the tough and futuristic design personality of this timepiece.
Made fully of titanium that is DLC-coated, in a case size of 46mm by 15.7mm, it is a large dive watch offering an incredible 1,000m of water resistance. Its design is submarine inspired, with 4 hex screws dominating the corners of its cushion-shaped case.
It comes equipped with a rugged yet simple dive bezel. To reduce its visual heft, its crown guards are sunken into the profile of its case, and it also has short lugs. They are double stemmed, offering extra protection to the rubber strap it comes attached to.
The combination of its lightweight titanium case, short lugs, and rubber strap allows the piece to wear smaller than its dimensions would suggest. It uses an H10 Movement with an 80-hour power reserve. It is priced at $1,845, great value for a super tough dive watch with movie credibility.
Sinn is a German tool watch brand that does not rely on a lot of marketing, yet they are hugely respected within the watch community for making the most incredible and over-engineered tool watches. The Sinn UX EZM 2B is no exception and is arguably the most hardcore dive watch on the market.
Its case, bezel, and bracelet are made entirely of German U-Boat steel (submarine steel), which is twice the hardness of regular 316L steel, scratch-resistant, and highly anti-corrosive. Its dive-bezel is TEGIMENTED (carbon diffused) and 1,200 Vickers hard, offering even more scratch resistance (nearly three times) than the rest of the watch.
It is also a captive bezel, which means it is held on by screws rather than snapped on, making it more resilient to hard hits. The watch is completely media blasted, and due to its U-Boat steel, it has a champagne hue. Its dial is matte black, fully lumed, with white and red contrasts. The watch overall is easily recognizable and versatile for even a civilian lifestyle.
It has a case diameter of 44mm, purposefully sized to be legible underwater. With the HYDRO technology, it is one of the only timepieces outside of Ressence that is completely oil-filled, therefore having zero distortion to its dial and making it incredibly resistant to depth pressure.
This allows for a monstrous water resistance of 5,000m with a svelte case thickness of only 13.3mm. It is quartz-powered and has a price of $2,700. It is a watch so good that it has a cult following.
Ball was founded in the United States in 1891 and made a name for itself by establishing the Railroad Standard, a timekeeping standard that was relied upon for the safe operation of the railroad industry. Today, Ball is a Swiss brand that produces its watches in Switzerland.
The Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster Orbital II is Ball’s expression of the ultimate explorer’s watch. It has a titanium case measures 45mm in diameter and 18.3mm in thickness. It is attached to a well-built titanium bracelet with a folding buckle and extension system, with great articulation and fitment on the wrist.
It is powered by an Automatic-Caliber BALL RR1404, which is essentially an ETA Valjoux 7750, modified to include a GMT function. Under a 3mm thick sapphire crystal, it has a black dial sporting a vertical 3-register chronograph layout with contrasting silver numerals, hands, an additional navigation scale, and an independent 24-hour scale in orange to match its orange GMT hand.
Additionally, there is a date window at 3 o’clock with a magnifier lens for easy readability. Ball is famous for using tritium gas tubes, 39 of which are used on this model and feature on its hands, hour markers, and even its chronograph pushers.
Besides being antimagnetic and water-resistant to 100m, it features an Amoriser shock system to protect its movement in high-shock environments. This model is now discontinued and had an original retail price of $5,300.
Originally launched in 1985, the Aerospace was a super-accurate flight watch. It used an analog and digital display to provide a wide range of information that was impossible to obtain from an analog-only timepiece. This model is a refreshed iteration, and even today, it can be considered one of the few luxury watches that serve as true professional equipment to be used in the cockpit.
It is a titanium offering with a case diameter of 43mm, making it highly legible and sporty in appearance. It has a thickness of only 10.8mm, offering incredible versatility in wearing it even under a cuff. It is attached to Breitling’s Professional 3 bracelet with diagonal links that are iconic to the brand. It comes equipped with a unidirectional diving bezel attached by screws, offering more resistance to hits, which will be useful underwater with its 100m water resistance.
Its analog black dial is lumed, which helps with legibility in low-light conditions. It is complemented by two backlit digital displays that offer a host of information, such as a 1/100th of a second chronograph, perpetual calendar, countdown timer, 2nd timezone, alarm, and minute repeater, that can be operated in a user-friendly manner via its crown.
Powering its technology is a SuperQuartz movement that is chronometer-certified and thermocompensated. It is currently discontinued and had an original retail price of approximately $4,400.
The Pelagos, equipped with a snowflake dial, is the model that champions the legacy of the iconic Snowflake Submariner. It features a 42mm by 14.4mm titanium case equipped with a helium escape valve and pointed crown guards (lending aesthetics to vintage Snowflake Submariners).
It is attached to a titanium bracelet with an extension-equipped clasp. As a result, it is extra lightweight and offers a high-quality wearing experience for daily use or diving. Also included is a diving rubber strap.
This model is available in a phenomenal shade of blue, an updated tone of the color made popular by its Snowflake predecessor. It is equipped with a scratch-resistant matte ceramic dive-bezel that is fully lumed, combined with a fully lumed stepped dial using snowflake indexes, snowflake hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock.
The benefit of the snowflake layout is that it allows for less negative space on the dial and more surface area for luminosity. As a fully-lumed watch, it offers ultimate legibility in low-light conditions, fitting for a high-performance diver.
It is equipped with an in-house MT-5612 (COSC) calibre with a useful 70-hour power reserve. With a retail price of $5,000, it is an incredibly versatile and well-designed offering that is great value for money, something Tudor has built a reputation for.
The first X-33 released in 1998 was a revolution of the iconic Moonwatch. Developed, tested, and qualified by the ESA (European Space Agency), it was more capable for NASA astronauts and cosmonauts to perform onboard activities on the International Space Station.
It was also dubbed the “Mars watch”. The X-33 Marstimer is Omega’s fourth attempt in this series. The difference from its predecessors is that it now tracks Mars time. The Marstimer borrows its design from the original Moonwatch. Like its X-33 predecessors, it sports a 45mm by 14.9mm case in Grade-2 titanium attached to a Grade-2 and 5 titanium five-link bracelet.
It has a new rotatable anodized aluminum bezel in a red hematite color meant to be reminiscent of the dust on Mars. This color can be found on its upper left pusher as well as on its black-to-red second hand. Like all X-33s, its main design cue is its analog and digital display, which allows for a vast number of functions.
New to this model is a Mars Time Coordinated function (accounting for 39 minutes and 35 seconds longer days on Mars than on Earth) and a solar compass, which allows tracking of true north on both Earth and Mars. It is powered by the Omega-5622. With a retail price of $6,400, this is a bold chapter in the space exploration legacy of the Speedmaster.
The Yacht-Master is an alternate luxury diver from Rolex, embodying its ties with the sport of sailing. Released in 2023, the Yacht-Master 42 arrives as the brand’s second-only titanium offering, featuring a case and bracelet made fully of its proprietary RLX titanium.
Its 42mm case has a thickness of 11.6mm, with wonderfully integrated crown guards that are among the best seen in the industry. The case returns to chamfered edges, reminiscent of the aesthetics seen on the brand’s vintage models. Its bezel is bi-directional, with a matte black ceramic insert and raised polished numerals.
This is matched to a matte black dial (fully lumed) that retains the famous and legible Submariner style template, with round plots and a Mercedes hand in white gold. Its markings are maxi-sized, offering more visibility than traditional Submariners due to its larger dial.
It is fitted to an Oyster bracelet that is fully brushed like its case. Almost anything with an Oyster bracelet can be praised for its articulation and wearability; combined with its slim and proportional case and all-titanium construction (nearly 50% lighter than a regular steel 40mm Yacht-Master), this watch over-delivers.
It is equipped with an in-house 3235 calibre, which is a Superlative Chronometer with a 70-hour power reserve. With a retail price of $14,000, it stands as a revolutionary model in the Rolex lineup, not shying away from experimentation to deliver us a truly modern luxury tool watch. It is quite a looker, fit for a luxury yacht or a sports yacht.
Panerai’s inception as a watchmaker was influenced by the needs of tough men. It was in 1936 that the Italian Royal Navy commissioned the company to build a watch for their frogmen, who needed a way of keeping time in the murky depths.
These men rode torpedoes like bicycles as a means of competing with their Allies’ warships during WWII. Fast-forward to today and the Submersible serves as its true professional dive watch. The PAM02979 carries the form factor of the Luminor it was originally based on.
It carries the iconic security lock on the side of its case, which offers more impact protection than a simple shouldered crown. It has a 60-minute dive bezel and 300m of water resistance, two features reserved just for this model.
As a template for advanced engineering, this model is made of forged carbon, which is also used on the dial, giving it a tactical look that suits the hardcore nature of the watch. Its dial is clean and legible, featuring full lume. There is a date window at 3 o’clock and a small second counter at 9 o’clock.
The watch is 47mm in diameter, a large size that will fit perfectly on a wetsuit or offer heavy wrist presence. It is attached via a quick-release system to a rubber strap with bellows and a pattern molded in to give it flexibility and a rugged look. It comes equipped with an automatic P.9010 calibre with a 3-day power reserve. $20,000 plus tax is the price to pay for the quintessential dive watchmaker’s most advanced piece.
Conclusion
As we venture into the unknown, our timepieces have now become vessels for our memories. Many watchmakers have built legacies on the journeys their creations have endured on pioneers’ wrists. Innovation, a storied history, and sheer diversity in the application of modern-day timepieces reassure us that they can not only handle the harshest of elements but can even save our lives if needed.
Cartier is an iconic name in watchmaking besides its embellished history of being a jeweler to the society’s elite, described by King Edward VII as “the jeweler of kings and the kings of jewelers”. Obsessed with design, Cartier has held its own as a watchmaker.
Its unique history in Art Deco-inspired high watchmaking has led them to create many icons of timeless elegance, molding itself into the modern-day “king of design” in the luxury watch industry. For perspective, we can call Rolex the king of sports watches and Patek Philippe, the king of complications.
From a Maison that is not born from watchmaking, it is second to Rolex. This was achieved by the brand’s focus on elegant design rather than complications, committing to the return of CPCP “Cartier Privé Cartier Paris” design language, or simply said, its original language of design.
With a focus on shape, elegance, refinement, sophistication, and attention to detail, it has revitalized the brand in recent years. About 60-70% of its sales are from a female clientele, and while having the “strongest identity in design” in the watchmaking industry, most or all of its designs are genderless. This offers a great degree of collectability available to the female audience, with an exquisite collection to unfold.
The History Of Cartier Watches
Cartier was founded in 1847 when Louis Francois Cartier took over his master’s workshop on 29 Rue Montorgueil amidst the ongoing French Revolution. 9 years later, Princess Mathilde, cousin of Emperor Napoleon III, purchased a Cartier creation and paved the way for the Maison to have access to the Parisian high society and the international elite.
In 1874, his son Alfred Cartier took over and was instrumental in introducing Cartier into the Royal Houses of Europe and beyond. It would be his sons Louis, Pierre, and Jacques who would aspire to transform the business from a local destination into an international luxury powerhouse with its boutiques in Paris, London, and New York. Each branch would operate independently of the other, making for an extraordinary archive of collectible and unique timepieces and jewelry pieces.
In 1898, grandson Louis, the eldest sibling, joined the Maison and would play a pivotal role in its evolution. He would establish the new boutique at Rue de la Paix in the jewelry district of Paris and would influence some of the company’s most celebrated designs like the mystery clock and exotic Art Deco designs like the “Tutti Frutti” jewels.
He would also create watches that would become the blueprint for its future collection. In 1905, he made history by releasing the first wristwatch, sports watch, and pilots watch when he created the Santos Dumont for his friend and pioneer in aviation Alberto Santos Dumont, who inspired the need for Louis to design the first pilots wristwatch that could be worn on his wrist during flight, and whom the timepiece is named after.
Another hugely successful design to this day would be his creation of the iconic Cartier Tank in 1917, inspired by an industrial design in the form of the top-down view of a Renault armored tank used in WWI– an elegant, timeless, loved, and cherished piece of design to this day.
Cartier watches have a history of appreciation from some of the most influential, famous, and style-conscious women. For perspective, Audrey Hepburn, a star of the silver screen, was seen wearing a Gold Cartier Tank in her role in Breakfast at Tiffany’s 1961. She was known to adore the watch and added it to her private collection.
Princess Diana was also known to wear a gold tank on several occasions. Kate Middleton has followed her effortless style, having been spotted wearing the Ballon Bleu and the Tank Française.
More First Ladies have chosen Cartier than any other watch brand– Jackie Kennedy famously received her first Cartier Tank when she became FLOTUS. Michelle Obama followed suit sporting her tank Francaise in her first official White House photo, and Dr. Jill Biden became the third first lady to wear a Cartier watch, having been seen wearing a gold Panthère de Cartier.
Last but not least, many celebrities– Madonna in the 80s, Gwyneth Paltrow in the 90s, and 2000s onwards, Sienna Miller, Anne Hathaway, Zendaya, Uma Thurman, Rihanna, and Dua Lipa have all been spotted wearing a Panthère de Cartier. The list can go on, and it is fair to claim that Cartier watches are an essential accessory for successful women.
What’s The Status Of Cartier Today?
Cartier remained under family control from its founding until 1964; today, it is a wholly-owned subsidiary of the Swiss Richemont Group but remains headquartered in Paris. Built in the 2000s, its modern and high-end watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds Switzerland is over 30,000 square meters and one of the largest in Switzerland together with the Rolex and Omega manufacture.
For three consecutive years, Cartier has usurped Omega as the second-largest luxury watch brand by revenue, with a turnover of CHF 2.75 billion in 2022. This achievement is thanks to the widespread recognition of its extraordinary archives in recent years, the influence of A-list celebrity hype (seen on the wrists of Kanye West & Tyler The Creator), and its refocus on its icons rather than complications.
Another noteworthy mention could be that with the widespread popularity of high-end watches in recent years and the unavailability of timepieces from its near equivalent in perceived luxury “Rolex”, Cartier’s approachability in the form of its iconic collections has influenced its recent success.
Given Cartier’s dual purpose as a jeweler and a watchmaker, its ability to serve its female clientele has set it apart from other well-known watchmakers. With an organic and poetic vision to design, its focus on creating beautiful objects with elegant and balanced proportions rather than highly complicated movements that fit into larger cases has made its designs neutral or unisex, thereby perpetually enriching the choice of great watches for its female clientele.
Best Cartier Watches For Women
If you’re interested in purchasing a Cartier ladies’ watch, there are tons of options to choose from. Here’s a list of the best Cartier watches for women you can pick up brand-new in 2024:
Cartier Tank Must Small (ref. WSTA0042)
The WSTA0042 is the entry point within the Cartier Collection. The “Must” nameplate was first launched in 1977 during the quartz crisis. It was a subdivision of Cartier’s iconic Tank collection, equipped with a quartz movement and vermeil gold cases at a more affordable price; it was incremental for the brand to cater to the masses or growing upper middle class while offering the design hallmarks of the original iconic Tank Louis.
The Must collection recently returned to the fold, and with that, the Must Small. The new Musts would be offered exclusively in steel with a high autonomy quartz movement. Its classical design is most appealing, retaining the classical case shape and aesthetics of the original Tank Louis (only offered in precious metals and with mechanical movements), a timeless design over a century old.
The combination of steel and quartz allows Cartier to offer low barriers for entry due to its price of only $2,950. Its case dimensions of 29.5 x 22mm and thickness of only 6.6mm make for a daily wearable, versatile, and pure Tank experience on the wrist.
The Panther is Cartier’s iconic animal; its symbolism and elegance have greatly inspired Cartier’s creativity since 1914.
Louis Francois Cartier’s right-hand woman and design director Jeanne Toussaint, who signed off all luxury creations under the house between 1933 and 1970, would be famously nicknamed “La Panthère” – a tribute to her obsession with the feline that influenced her unique style and inspired her to create some of the Maison’s most prized pieces of jewelry.
Cartier presented the first “commercial” line of the Panthère in 1983, and after a brief production hiatus in 2004, it returned in 2017 to the permanent collection. The Medium WSPN0007 is a full stainless steel model with dimensions of 27mm x 37mm and a thickness of 6mm, making for a daily wearable versatile watch.
As a renaissance watch, it remains aesthetically unchanged from its predecessor, sporting a curvaceous case based on the Santos attached to a link bracelet. Its case marries effortless elegance with functionality, featuring curved edges, fluid crown guards, and the now iconic square bezel with rounded corners secured by eight screws (mirrored on its caseback).
This is combined with a classic silvered dial with printed elongated Roman numerals, a railroad minute track that frames its center, and blued sword hands offering contrast, matched to a synthetic sapphire cabochon on its crown, overall making for a signature Cartier look.
Its fluidity in design is carried through its completely polished bracelet, with small brick-like links attached to one another; the links are curved, offering less weight, more movement, and more comfort than other Cartier alternatives. As a steel model dressed in high finishing, combined with a quartz movement, priced at $5,200, this model is an approachable icon and a highly elegant ladies-focused offering.
Cartier Ballon Bleu Pink Dial (ref. WSBB0046)
We know Cartier is most celebrated for its iconic case shapes; the Ballon Blue is one of its most contemporary yet unfamiliar designs due to its rounded form. While it doesn’t have the rich heritage of its iconic angular cousins, since its launch in 2007, it has become one of the most significant collections of Cartier.
This steel WSBB0046 comes in a case size of 33mm threading the lines between modern and chic in terms of wearability. It also allows for the inclusion of an automatic movement. Although appearing traditionally rounded in typical Cartier fashion, the design is unique and unmistakable.
This is accentuated by its pebble-like design, featuring a domed face and a domed caseback, accompanied by a narrow bracelet attached to short lugs. Its short lugs help the watch to wear smaller than its case size would suggest.
This model features a salmon pink dial, a color usually reserved for haute horology pieces. It is unique and bold, with silver Roman numerals printed along its periphery (its symmetry is broken for the inclusion of the winding mechanism integrated into its rounded case), a railroad minute track frames the center of its dial, and at its center is an embossed guilloche pattern.
Blued sword hands offer a contrast with a matching cabochon. Its aesthetics are in keeping with Cartier’s signature design language, with a twist of color. It is priced at $6,200.
Cartier Tank Française Small Gold Diamonds (ref. WJTA0039)
Cartier’s collection of iconic shapes is unprecedented; when the Tank Française was released in 1996, it was among the many evolutions of the original Tank Louis. Though late to the party, its integrated bracelet seamlessly extending from its bran-chards made for an incredibly versatile design and gained it a legion of followers.
This year, Cartier revamped the model retaining its jewel/bracelet watch DNA, modernizing the design, and evolving its lines to be a bolder, sportier, and more cohesive package.
The Small WJTA0039 is one of the exquisite models within the Française lineup, featuring a full 18k yellow gold case (25.7mm x 21.2mm) and bracelet construction, combined with 22 brilliant cut diamonds embedded along its bran-chards and a matching diamond embedded in its crown that is partially integrated into its caseband (overall totaling 0.78 carats in diamonds).
Its new golden sunray dial blends harmoniously with its predominantly brushed precious yellow metal case. Retaining the traditional Cartier aesthetic we know of, it has bold Roman numerals in gunmetal gray, a railroad minute track framing its center, and blued sword hands.
It also has a quartz movement, which will be pretty low maintenance, a luxury perhaps for a watch that is not defined by its movement, but by its design. This angular, chiseled, industrial piece of art can be had for $29,000.
Cartier Ballon Bleu Rose Gold Diamond Dial (ref. WGBB0052)
The WGBB0052 is a dressier take on the traditional Ballon Bleu, with a precious metal case, a diamond-encrusted dial, and an alligator leather strap. It is a tribute to the versatility of its pebble-like case shape and follows unwritten rules of being a unique dress watch to add to your collection.
This model comes equipped with a 33mm solid 18k rose gold case. It maintains the symmetrical lines of all traditional Ballon Blue’s with its domed pebble shape on its face and caseback and an integrated crown in its round case breaking the dial’s symmetry.
The main highlight of this model is its matt silvered stamped sunray dial set with 21 brilliant cut diamonds, totaling 0.10 carats. For contrast and in keeping with classic Cartier design language, it features blued hands with a matching sapphire cabochon set into its crown.
To complement its iconic “blue theme”, its alligator leather strap is blue (equipped with an 18k rose gold buckle to match the case), transforming its wearability and highlighting the presence of its unique case shape better than its bracelet contemporaries. It comes with an automatic movement and is priced at $15,600.
Cartier Panthère Small Diamonds (ref. W4PN0007)
Exclusively made for women, an iconic heritage design (40 years old, based on a century-old design) with a cult following from a high watchmaking Maison and jeweler of the elites, offered with a factory diamond setting, a steel case and bracelet, a quartz movement, and therefore affordably priced at $8,400, is an unheard combination of specifications that remains exclusive to Cartier in its W4PN0007 offering.
Like the Medium WSPN0007 mentioned earlier, the small W4PN007 is an identical model in smaller proportions combined with a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Its 23 x 30mm stainless steel case with 6mm thickness offers a more elegant, feminine, and jewelry-focused wearing experience.
For powerful women who want an iconic and fashionable watch worn by the world’s most chic and famous women, with a gem set handled by the world’s leading jewelry maker, combined with the daily robustness of steel and its low-maintenance quartz movement, it is a perfect crossroad of female horology and the world of jewelry.
The WSTA0061 saw its release in 2021 as a true Tank distilled down to its essence, accompanied by what would be deemed a modern revolution of the “Tank Must de Cartier” of old, due to its movement that draws power from the sun, instead of a quartz movement that made the “Must” nameplate so popular.
Solar is a brand new technology for Cartier, and a huge selling point is the carefree nature of this movement, with the ability to go through 16-year battery change intervals, twice that of the high autonomy quartz movements Cartier offers.
Compared to the modern Tank Solo line, the vertical bran-chards of the Tank Must are rounded to resemble the Tank Louis, therefore retaining the case shape and lines of the original Tank. This Small model is aesthetically identical to the current production “WSTA0042” mentioned in our list.
With bold Roman black numerals printed along the periphery of its rectangular dial (solar cells hidden beneath), accompanied by a railroad minute track that frames the center of its silver opaline dial, sword-shaped heat-blued hands offer contrast, with a matching synthetic sapphire cabochon that sits atop a highly ornate crown. With its eco-friendly movement in mind, it comes standard on a vegan leather strap.
Cartier Panthère Mini Rose Gold Diamonds (ref. WJPN0020)
The Panthère is a power watch for women, just like the “Rolex Day Date” is for men. In 1983, it was born in the midst of the quartz crisis and helped keep the Maison’s exclusive customers happy during a time when Cartier was appealing to a mainstream audience following the launch of the Must de Cartier collection.
The Panthère was a bold move from Cartier. While many luxury brands were hurting selling luxury pieces, its unyielding focus on luxury, design, and the Maison’s “je ne sais quoi” has made it an icon. It is no surprise that Cartier dedicates a diverse collection to the Panthère, embracing grand embellishments. Within lies the WJPN0020, with lots of diamonds.
This model features a solid 18k rose gold case and bracelet; its dimensions measure 25mm x 20mm and 6mm thick, making it one of the smallest offerings in the Panthère lineup. It is combined with the signature flowing brick-style bracelet that allows for the mini-sized piece to articulate properly on the wrist. Women will also appreciate its compactness and, therefore, lightness for a watch with a full 18k gold construction.
This reference highlights its many brilliant cut diamonds embedded into its case, bezel, lugs, and bracelet end links; the sapphire cabochon that sits atop its octagonal crown is replaced with a brilliant diamond to match. Its silvered dial is consistent with other Panthère models, with a railroad minute track and blued hands for contrast. Priced at $30,400, accompanied by a quartz movement, it is effortless high luxury packaged in an iconic, timeless design.
Cartier Ronde Must Small (ref. WSRN0030)
The Ronde can be described as Cartier’s most simple design within its vast offering of angular and irregular-shaped watches. In the horology industry today, most of us gravitate towards familiar round-shaped timepieces due to their versatility.
The Ronde is Cartier’s play in the circular watch segment. Louis Cartier’s own creation, offered in the late 1930s, today’s Ronde collection provides a timeless charm and exudes signature Cartier details that make it stand out amongst other circular dress watches.
This Small WSRN0030 is offered under the “Must” subdivision. It comes in steel, accompanied by a high autonomy quartz movement (with 8 years of power). Its 29mm round case with a thickness of 8.5mm is completely polished, with smooth lines, short inward bending lugs, and a highly ornate beaded crown set with a sapphire cabochon.
It is effortlessly sophisticated, complimented by a signature Cartier dial in sandblasted silver, with bold black Roman numerals, a railroad minute track at its center, and blue sword-shaped hands. Paired with a black vegan leather strap, it’s a timeless essential and versatile daily wearer that many will love. Priced at a suitable $2,700.
Cartier Coussin Rose Gold (ref. WJCS0004)
The existence of the Coussin within Cartier’s collection reminds us that besides the Maison being an iconic haute horology watchmaker, it is also a haute jeweler. A tribute to its prowess in both extremes, it has a unique case shape and only comes embellished fully with diamonds.
The WJCS0004 is a medium-model quartz-equipped offering. Its solid 18k rose gold case is 30.4mm x 31.1mm in diameter, with a thickness of 7.1mm. Its case resembles the aesthetics of a cushion, hence its “Coussin” nameplate and its design is complemented with a pattern of spiral-set diamonds.
With a matching diamond featuring on its ornate crown, it has 177 brilliant cut diamonds totaling 4.09 carats. Its exquisite jewelry-focused look is matched with an elegant sunray silver Roman numeral dial and a soft beige calfskin strap attached to hidden lugs behind its case. In a sea of iconic and unique designs, the Coussin is a focused tribute to Cartier’s high society flair. Priced at $32,500.
Cartier Tank Louis Small (ref. WGTA0010)
Designed and named after Louis Cartier himself, now over a century old design, the legacy of the Tank Louis preys upon the haute-ness of any retro icon in existence. Perpetuating its original blueprint since its inception (1917), this “original rectangular watch” is one of the most elegant, influential, and timeless designs ever created.
The Small WGTA0010 is offered with case dimensions of 29.5mm x 22mm, a thickness of 6.35mm, and a quartz movement. Its case is made fully of 18K yellow gold and is attached to a tan alligator leather strap with a matching 18k yellow gold buckle.
It has a silver-grained dial with bold black Roman numerals, a railroad minute track at its center, and contrasting blued sword hands that match the sapphire cabochon that sits atop its ornate crown. Its design language and aesthetics exude signature Cartier DNA and are the continued format of the Original Tank Louis. Priced at $10,200, it is essential for any haute horology lover.
Cartier Panthère Small Gold (ref. WGPN0039)
While the Panthère is known to be a soft, delicate, elegant, and feminine evolution of the Santos, an iconic and timeless design on its own, the WGPN0039 takes its elegance and evolution further with a double-loop bracelet based on the articulate brick style link bracelet that defines the Panthère collection. Its full gold construction and exotic-styled bracelet further lend its functionality as a timeless, highly recognizable timepiece towards becoming a statement piece of jewelry on the wrist.
Sized as a Small Panthère with a 23mm x 30mm 18k yellow gold case and a thickness of 6mm, it is well balanced in size and presence on the wrist with its novel double loop bracelet. Like all Panthère models, design is the main focus of this piece while benefiting from a low-maintenance quartz movement.
This model is a testament to the versatility in design of the Santos case that evolved into the Panthère and the versatility of the brick-style bracelet that was created for the Panthère. It is a package of historic high watchmaking and high-end bracelet-making that Cartier is known for. The best of both worlds can be had for a hefty $36,700.
Cartier Ballon Bleu Rose Gold (ref. WJBB0063)
Since its launch in 1983, the round watch from Cartier, the Ballon Bleu, has become a mainstay and a huge success in the collection. It is not uncommon to see it on the wrists of movie stars, political figures, and even royalty; Kate Middleton is famously known for choosing to wear hers frequently. The WJBB0063 takes the quintessential ladies’ Ballon Bleu with its signature elements and offers an uber-luxury combination of a precious metal construction and gem setting.
This model features a 33mm solid 18k rose gold case with compact lugs attached to a matching 18k rose gold interchangeable bracelet. Its sizing hits the sweet spot between being refined and contemporary on the wrist. In keeping with the wider preference of watch collectors of today, it features an automatic movement. The main attraction of this model is its full gem-set bezel consisting of 47 brilliant cut diamonds totaling 0.68 carats.
Its dial is silvered with a sunburst effect, bold black Roman numerals are printed along its periphery, with a railroad minute track at its center. Its hands are blued, offering contrast, with a matching sapphire cabochon set into its fluted crown.
Like all Ballon Bleu models, its crown is integrated into the case, breaking the symmetry of the dial. Its combination of precious metals, gem setting, mechanical movement, and usage of the classic Ballon Bleu template makes for a clean, simple, and timeless design that can be passed down to generations. It comes with a price tag of $32,900.
Cartier Pasha Diamonds (ref. WJPA0019)
The origin story of the Pasha begins in the early 1930s when the Pasha of Marrakesh (hence its “Pasha” nameplate) commissioned a waterproof watch from Louis Cartier so that he could go swimming with it. While the original design of this watch created in 1933 remains shrouded in mystery, the Pasha design we know today was penned by the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta in 1985.
It is a rounded case design that doesn’t play by Cartier’s rule book, with a square railroad track on its dial, forgoing characteristic Roman numerals for Arabic ones. It also featured a diving bezel and a canteen-styled crown to hark back to its origin as a sports watch.
The WJPA0019’s party trick combines its iconic 80s design with an exquisite gem setting. It has a 30mm 18k white gold case, attached with a centralized lug design to an 18k white gold bracelet. The watch is completely gem-set with 425 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 7.3 carats.
It is complemented with a traditional Pasha-style opaline flinqué dial that has a square railroad track and blued steel sword hands for contrast. Typical of Cartier’s ladies’ models that are focused on aesthetics and extreme luxury, it comes with a convenient quartz movement. It is priced largely at $132,000, not for the faint-hearted.
Cartier Coussin Medium White Gold (ref. WJCS0012)
Cartier’s ability to communicate its language of design in the form of poetic case shapes is unprecedented. The Coussin is a design inspired by the shape of a cushion and is elevated through its exclusive usage of gem settings, harmoniously complementing one another. This model is also made to deform like a cushion, another element of storytelling in design achieved through the sensation of touch.
The WJCS0012 is a medium-sized offering with case dimensions of 39.3mm x 32mm and a thickness of 13mm. It is only offered with a quartz movement, which is the more convenient choice for a watch that is suited best for special occasions. Its flexible 18k white gold case is completely gem set, including its dial, in a swirl pattern.
This comprises 85 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 0.38 carat, 587 sapphires, 276 stavorites, 45 emeralds, and 18 tourmalines. Its blue-green persona is matched with a blue calfskin strap featuring a white gold buckle. Priced at $79,000, it is a unique and unmistakable offering, combining haute watchmaking with haute jewelry making that defines Cartier’s legacy.
Conclusion
Cartier stands proudly as one of the most recognizable watch brands in the industry today. Its established/rich history as a jeweler, and its pioneering commitment to beautiful designs (case shapes) that follow form before function, have led the Maison to create timeless icons that have captivated the minds of the most astute collectors.
In a time where precise/reliable timekeeping has easily become available to the masses, and haute horology merely exists through how it makes us feel; its visual storytelling and consistency of design language means that you know a Cartier when you see one. It is a love letter to the cultured art of fine watchmaking.
