Author: Grant McKay

A dress watch is an essential piece of any gentleman’s wardrobe, adding a touch of sophistication and elegance to any formal or semi-formal outfit. However, finding a high-quality dress watch that doesn’t break the bank can be a daunting task. 

Fortunately, many excellent dress watches are available for under $5,000 and offer a perfect combination of style, craftsmanship, and affordability. In this article, we will highlight these timepieces’ unique features, performance, and value for money at various budget levels within the price cap. 

Whether you’re looking for a classic timepiece for a wedding, important business meetings, or a fancy gala, we’ve got you covered. So, let’s take a closer look at some of the best dress watches on the market today for the money. 

What Is a Dress Watch?

A dress watch is a type of wristwatch designed to be worn on formal or semi-formal occasions. It is characterized by its elegant and understated design, intended to complement a gentleman’s outfit without overpowering it.

Typically, dress watches feature a thin, streamlined case, a simple, uncluttered dial, and a leather strap or metal bracelet. Those more adventurous might pair a suit with a dive watch and its colorful rubber strap and tie it in with the color of their pocket square. However, keeping it traditional might be the safer option for truly formal situations.

What to Look For in Dress Watches Under $5000?

1. Case Material and Size: The case material and size are important factors to consider when purchasing a dress watch. Stainless steel and gold are common materials for dress watches, but you may also find watches made of titanium or other metals. The case size is also important, as it can impact the watch’s overall look and feel. A smaller case size can look more traditional and elegant, while a larger one can provide a more modern and bolder look.
2. Strap Option: The type of strap you choose can also impact the overall look and feel of the dress watch. Leather straps are a classic option that can give a dressy and sophisticated look, while metal bracelets can provide a more refined and luxurious feel.
3. Movement and Complications: As we noted above, mechanical movements can offer a more traditional and luxurious feel. Complications, such as moon phases, chronographs, or date displays, can add functionality and visual interest to the watch.
4. Brand and Design: The brand and design of the dress watch can also be an important factor to consider. Look for reputable brands that have a strong history of producing high-quality watches. Choose a design that reflects your personal style and complements your wardrobe.
5. Value for Money: Finally, consider the value for money when purchasing a dress watch. Look for a timepiece that offers a good balance between price, quality, and style. Consider buying from a reputable retailer and look for watches with a warranty to ensure you get a quality product.

The Best Dress Watches Under $5000

1. GRAND SEIKO SBGW231G

Grand Seiko delivers an instant classic. The stainless steel case of this timepiece features a mirrored finish. Achieving this exquisite look across the entire case required detailed, expert artisan polishing work. Everything about this watch has been carefully handcrafted, and every detail is in-house, down to the lubricant used for the internal mechanisms. 

Grand Seiko described the dial color as autumn light. To my eye, it’s reminiscent of a vintage ivory piano key. The hands and indexes are diamond cut and therefore reflect the light from every angle. The dial features a minimalist design with three hands and no date. The case measures 37.3mm and sits at 11.6mm on the wrist.

The case back is open, showcasing their in-house caliber 9S64 movement with its 72-hour power reserve. The timepiece is paired with a black crocodile leather strap that is remarkably supple, feeling as if it’s already been broken in. This timepiece is an excellent choice for both men and women. 

Price: $4,300

2. CARTIER TANK MUST LARGE MODEL CRWSTA0041

If you’re looking for that Cartier Tank Louise look at a reasonable price, this timepiece is it. The watch features Cartier’s traditional rectangular case in stainless steel. It measures 33.7mm x 25.5mm and sits at 6.60mm on the wrist. 

It’s a simple, clean silver dial with black Roman numerals, offset by sharp blue sword hands and a blue crown. It’s powered by a high-autonomy quartz movement, which provides a huge battery life of up to eight years. All of this is paired with a grained black calfskin strap and steel Ardillon buckle.

Some have noted that the strap on this watch is small, even for a modest man’s sized wrist. This type of watch was first introduced in the ‘70s to counter the Japanese quartz craze that put many traditional Swiss timepiece manufacturers out of business.

The silverling from that period was a new market of fine-looking watches, sans the complex in-house mechanical movements and delivered to the public at a much lower price point. This watch continues in that tradition. As previously addressed in this article, while most will select a dress watch with a mechanical movement, this is an excellent example of a watch that runs counter to that rule. 

Price: $2,930

3.  IWC PORTOFINO AUTOMATIC IW356501

There’s just something lovely about this dress watch. While it’s sized for men, some women are wearing larger watches these days, and it could therefore be untraditionally unisex. The stainless steel case has a mirrored finish. The case is sized at 40mm and sits low on the wrist at 9.2mm.

This is a classic three-hand watch with silver hands and raised roman numerals. The timepiece is paired nicely with a black alligator leather strap, although IWC offers many different strap colors and options for this model. It features an automatic caliber 35111 movement with a 42-hour power reserve.

The date is displayed at the 3 o’clock position. This watch is classic and sophisticated and would make a nice addition to any watch collection for those who still dress up regularly for work or special occasions. 

Price: $5,050

4. ZENITH ELITE CLASSIC 03.3100.670/02.C922

The dial of the Zenith Elite Classic is a beautiful blue sunray-patterned finish with a minimalist design. It’s encased in stainless steel and measures 40.5mm. The dial features silver-tone hour markers and hands. There is a small date window at the 3 o’clock position, adding to the functionality of the watch. 

The blue alligator leather strap is a nice touch of color. At the heart of the timepiece is the Elite 670 automatic movement, which is produced in-house by Zenith. This high-quality movement boasts a power reserve of up to 50 hours.

Price: $6,000

5. NOMOS ORION 38 387

The Nomos Orion 38 387 is a sophisticated and stylish dress watch that embodies the German brand’s commitment to minimalist design and impeccable craftsmanship. This timepiece features a round stainless steel case that measures 38mm in diameter and is only 7.9mm thick, making it an excellent choice for those who prefer a sleek and understated watch.

The white silver-plated dial of the Nomos Orion 38 387 is a marvel of simplicity, with only hour markers, slim baton hands, and a small second sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position. The gold markers are nicely accented by blue hands. 

Powering the Nomos Orion 38 is the in-house Alpha movement, which is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. This manual-winding movement features 17 jewels and a power reserve of up to 43 hours. 

Price: $2,260

6. TUDOR 1926 M91650-0005

Some think of Tudor as the baby brother of Rolex, but it’s really come into its own. The Tudor 1926 is perhaps their most underrated model. The design of the 1926 is classy and elegant with its opaline dial, subtle waffle pattern, and blue hour markers and hands. There’s a date display at the 3 o’clock position. 

It’s a 41mm stainless steel case that’s handsomely paired with a stainless steel seven-row, tapered bracelet. This allows the timepiece to straddle the line between a sports watch and a dress watch, though with its graceful design; I’d say it’s more on the dressy side of things. The timepiece is powered by a caliber T601 with a 38-hour power reserve. 

Price: $2,100

7. ORIS RECTANGULAR 01 561 7783 4063-07 5 19 16

The Oris Rectangular line of unisex watches is inspired by the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s. They are designed to appeal to those who appreciate classic and timeless styles. This iteration features some new colors and size changes.

The watch is more dress casual to my eye but brings some casual Friday fun to the office or any situation with its numerous color and strap options. The green dial features numerals at 3, 9, and 12 with sword-shaped hands and a date window at 6 o’clock.

The stainless steel case measures 25.50 X 38.00mm. It’s paired with a dark green leather strap and stainless steel buckle. The timepiece is powered by the Oris 561, base ETA 2671 automatic movement.

Price: $1,950

8. SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGED SERIES SPB165

The timepiece features a stainless steel case with a sharp, angular design that gives it a contemporary look. The case measures 39.3mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness, making it a relatively compact and wearable watch.

The dial of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB165 is white with a hemp leaf pattern. The hour, minute hand, and hour markers are silver. The second hand offers a pop of color in sharp blue. The date window is located at the 3 o’clock position and is framed with a polished metal border.

The watch is powered by Seiko’s in-house 6R35 automatic movement, which features a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The movement can be seen through the exhibition case back.

The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB165 has a stainless steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp with a push button release, providing a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet has a brushed finish that matches the case, and its links are designed to fit snugly against the wrist.

Price: $1,000

9. LONGINES FLAGSHIP HERITAGE L4.795.4.78.2

The Longines Flagship Heritage, with the silver-white dial, guilt hands, and markers, is a fine-looking timepiece. It features a small sub-second hand and date display, both at the 6 o’clock position. It’s clean, classy, and elegant. 

The stainless steel, polished case measures 38.5mm and is slim at 10.3mm thick. This watch is comfortable on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by the caliber L615 automatic with a 50-hour power reserve. 

The case back features an attractive gold sailing ship set against a dark blue background. All of this is handsomely paired with a dark brown calf leather strip. 

Price: $1,841

10. HAMILTON JAZZMASTER H32475730

The Hamilton Jazzmaster is a sophisticated and elegant men’s wristwatch designed to impress both watch enthusiasts and fashion-conscious individuals. It features a classic, timeless design that is sure to make a statement on any occasion.

The watch is powered by a reliable H-10 automatic, with a power reserve of up to 80 hours. The watch case is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40mm, making it a comfortable size for most men’s wrists. 

The watch’s dial is a deep, rich black color and is adorned with silver-tone hour markers and hands. It also features a date display window at the 6 o’clock position, which makes it a practical and useful timepiece for everyday wear.

The strap of the Hamilton Jazzmaster is made of high-quality black leather and features white contrast stitching, which gives the watch a sophisticated and refined look. The strap is also easily interchangeable, allowing you to customize the watch’s look to suit your personal style.

Price: $895

11. JUNGHANS MAX BILL AUTOMATIC 27/4700.02

The Junghans Max Bill is a stylish and minimalist men’s wristwatch inspired by the design philosophy of the renowned Swiss architect and artist Max Bill. The watch embodies his principles of simplicity, functionality, and timeless elegance.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 38mm and 10mm in height, which is the perfect size for most men’s wrists. The case has a polished finish paired with a high-quality gray leather strap.

The watch’s dial is simple and uncluttered, with a crisp white background and minimalist silver-tone hour markers and hands. The hour markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock feature a slightly raised dot, giving the dial a subtle depth and dimension. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position, which adds a practical touch to the watch.

The J800.1 automatic movement of the watch is reliable and precise. It has a power reserve of up to 38 hours. It’s a limited-edition timepiece with only 1,060 in circulation. 

Price: $1,350

12. LONGINES 1832 L4.826.4.52.0

The Longines 1832 is an elegant timepiece featuring a stainless steel case and a matt black dial with silver hands and hour markers. The case measures 40mm and sits at a respectable height of 12.3mm on the wrist. 

At the 6 o’clock position is a moon phase calendar with a gold moon and stars set against a dark, silky blue night sky. The watch is powered by a caliber L899 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. The timepiece is completed by a black alligator leather strap. 

Price: $2,400

13. MIDO BARONCELLI HERITAGE M027.407.16.010.00

The Mido Baroncelli Heritage is a beautiful and cultured men’s wristwatch that showcases the Swiss brand’s expertise in combining timeless design with modern functionality. It is part of the Baroncelli Heritage collection, which pays homage to Mido’s classic and elegant watchmaking heritage.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 39mm and is ultra-thin at 7.3mm, which is the perfect size for most men’s wrists. The case has a polished finish and is paired with a black leather strap.

The watch’s dial is a beautiful and clean white color, with a subtle, almost dimpled pattern, and is adorned with slim silver hour and minute hands, a sharp blue second hand, and black markers. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position. The caliber 1192 automatic movement features a reserve of up to 42 hours.

Price: $1,040

14. BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC MOA10518

The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic MOA10518 is an elegant and refined men’s wristwatch that represents the Swiss brand’s commitment to producing high-quality timepieces that are both beautiful and reliable. The watch is part of the Clifton Baumatic collection, which features watches powered by Baumatic movements, known for their precision and longevity.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 40mm and sits at the height of 11.3mm on the wrist. The polished case is paired with a black alligator leather strap, adding a touch of sophistication and luxury.

The watch’s dial is a porcelain-like white color and is adorned with slim silver hour, minute hands, and markers, with a dark gray second hand. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position.

The movement of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic is a precise and reliable Swiss-made automatic movement. It has a power reserve of up to 120 hours. One of the most notable features of the watch is the sapphire crystal case back, which allows you to admire the movement and intricate details of the timepiece. 

Price: $3,250

15. TUTIMA SKY AUTOMATIC 6105-22

The Tutima Sky Automatic is a stylish and functional men’s timepiece. It is part of the Tutima Sky collection, which features watches inspired by the brand’s history of creating high-performance aviation watches for military and civilian pilots. The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 13mm.

The case has a brushed finish and is paired with a Milanese bracelet. The watch’s dial is a beautiful blue dégrade color adorned with luminous hands and hour markers. There is also a small day and date display window at 3 o’clock. The movement of the Tutima Sky Automatic is a caliber 330, with a power reserve of up to 38 hours.

Price: $1,750

PARTING THOUGHTS

Finding the right dress watch can be challenging, but we hope our list has made the process easier for you. Whether you prefer a classic and traditional style or a modern and bold look, there is a dress watch on this list that will suit your personal taste and budget. 

Keep in mind the key factors to consider when purchasing a dress watch, such as the case material and size, strap option, movement and complications, brand and design, and value for money. Remember, a quality dress watch is a timeless investment that will last for years and will always add a touch of elegance to any outfit. 

When crossing the border from Italy into Switzerland, you’ll find some noticeable cultural differences in cleanliness and order. Both countries are full of beauty, rich heritages, delicious cuisines and striking fashions, but the Swiss are beyond fastidious, in contrast to their more relaxed Italian neighbors.

Even the typical petrol station restroom floor is spotless. They’re also on-time. Being prompt is a sign of respect in Swiss culture. So, while your Italian friends might offer a more swinging party scene, the Swiss are the ones you want manufacturing your timepieces.

There are many ‘best watch lists’ in the under $2000 category, but few that focus exclusively on Swiss-made watches. First, what makes a watch Swiss-made? In 2017 the Swiss government tightened the rules for what qualifies as Swiss-made. According to A Blog to Watch they include: 

1. “At least 60% of the production costs of a watch taken as a whole must be Swiss-based.”
2. “The movement must still contain at least 50% Swiss-made components in value (not in quantity) and at least 60% of the movement’s production must be generated in Switzerland.”
3. “Last but not least, it also specifies that the technical development of a ‘Swiss Made’ watch and movement must be carried out in Switzerland. Smart watches are also included for the first time.”

Is the premium for Swiss-made worth it? According to Lloyds Auctioneers and Valuers, the mechanisms used in Swiss watches are of the highest quality materials. The gears are made of metal and movements are handmade and serviceable.

They’re typically encased in superior materials, like surgical steel, to guard against corrosives. The faces are protected by sapphire crystal, which shouldn’t scratch and crack, with normal or even more active use. This means, if properly cared for, these watches can last a lifetime or multiple lifetimes.

This is in sharp contrast to some of the fast-fashion or digital watches, that may keep excellent time, but aren’t built to last. There’s something to be said for things that are well engineered, functional and exquisite. It’s the mark of a refined, worldly individual, who possesses the compacity to value such things and that’s why a Casio on your wrist sends a very different message than an Omega.

Of course, not everyone can afford a $25,000+ Rolex, but it’s not just a matter of having the most expensive or recognizable brand. A luxury timepiece doesn’t have to be a shallow statement about the size of one’s bank account, it can express more nuanced subtleties of one’s interests and tase… and as they say, you can’t buy taste.  

Perhaps you possess a love for flight or a drive to explore the depths of the sea. Maybe it’s racing cars, black-tie dinners with the movers and shakers or you’re the type who can read a financial prospectus and also roll up your sleeves on the factory floor. There’s a luxury watch to suit every need and interest.

The purpose of this list is to help you identify some of the brands and models that are not only quality timepieces, at a price, but also ones that might fit the many facets of your life and style. There’s a story behind each brand and the spirit of the watchmakers and the elegant, daring, pioneers who wore them, that connects all who adorn their wrists with these purposeful and beautiful pieces of art. 

1. LONGINES FLAGSHIP HERITAGE

Founded in 1832, Longines has a long, storied heritage. While it comes in different dial color and strap configurations, this dress watch is at its best in black. Its simple, yet refined black face, and rose gold toned hands, paired with a black leather strap, exudes class.

Whether you’re a young executive on his way to the top or the chairman of the board, this watch speaks to one’s solid grounding in legacy, while keeping a foot in the modern and progressive. It’s an elegant, balanced watch, for the one who knows where they came from and where they’re going. Case size 38.5mm. It’s a Mechanical Automatic, Caliber L615. Features include hours, minutes, seconds and date. Water resistant up to 30m.

Price: $1,775

2. ORIS AQUIS RELIEF RED STRAP

Oris executes a perfect dive watch in the Aquis model. Its design is simple, classic and readable. It’s a trendsetter, not a follower. With just a quick glance one can immediately tell it’s an Aquis. The grey face and red rubber strap are a bold paring, just like the divers that brave the elements and perilous sea creatures, to explore the depths of our oceans.

It’s a high-performance watch that doesn’t disappoint, with features that include hours, minutes, date and rotating bezel. The case is a solid stainless steel with a width of 43.50mm. Water resistant up to 300m.

Price: $1,900 (Source: https://www.exquisitetimepieces.com).

3. HAMILTON INTRA-MATIC

While Hamilton is an American company, with a noted World War II heritage, they moved their manufacturing to Switzerland. The Intra-Matic might just be one of the best value propositions on the market, with a strong build quality. Its styling is both sporty and classic, as a modern reworking of the original 1968 design.

The ‘panda’ white and black face paired with the mesh-like stainless steel bracelet, is especially attractive. The case size is 40mm. It’s an automatic movement, powered by the Hamilton Caliber H-31 with a 60-hour power reserve and dual chronograph and day functions.

Price: $1,489

4. TISSOT GENTLEMAN POWERMATIC 80 SILICIUM SOLID 18K GOLD BEZEL

From a watchmaking heritage that predates Rolex by half a century, comes the Tissot Gentleman Auto. The style and details of this watch, with its large crown and its two tone, stainless steel and rose gold case, paired with a three-link, center polished bracelet, make it a true head-turner. One that could be mistaken for a watch many times its value.

In fact, this watch sans gold, can be found for under $1000. It’s both modern and precise. Its arguably one of the best Swiss watches for the price. This is the perfect watch for someone with Rolex level style, but with the sensibility of an accountant. It’s a clean looking, dress/sports watch. Case size is 40.0mm. It’s an automatic movement with an 80-hour power reserve. Water resistant up to 50m. 

Price: $1,575

5. DOXA SUB 300T

Doxa has a celebrated history in the watch diving space, going back to the early days of the sport. The Sub 300T comes in six different colors and of course includes Doxa’s famed decompression bezel. It has an excellent, up-market bead-of-rice bracelet. It’s a cool looking watch with useful dive features.

Whether you’re someone who’s traveling the high seas looking for the next deep-sea expedition or you’re a yachtsman who prefers a dry, warm, teak-lined cabin, you can’t go wrong with this watch and at this price… might as well get a couple! Case size is 42.50mm. The movement is an ETA 2824-2 automatic. Water resistant up to 1,200m.

Price: $1,890 (Source: www.doxa.com).

6. TUDOR 1926

Tudor, known in another era as a baby Rolex, has since distinguished itself in the market. Given that Tudor was created by the founder of Rolex, there will always be comparisons. I like to think of Tudor as a more youthful, modern twist on a classic.

In American terms, Rolex might be the Hamptons of the watch world. Tudor, in contrast, is the young bull. Perhaps more akin to a Manhattan, where the nouveau riche are still making their mark. Tudor’s most famous model is undoubtably the Black Bay, which is an excellent dive watch, but one often overlooked and under-appreciated model is the 1926.

Its name derives from the year Tudor was registered and it certainly captures the original spirit of the brand. This model comes in four different case sizes and color combinations, with options for men and women. One real stand out is the opaline and blue dial.

The hands and numerals are a sharp sapphire blue, set against a white-silver face with a subtle waffle pattern design. The watch has a thin profile with a refined bracelet. It’s an excellent everyday watch that perfectly straddles the line between dressy and sporty. Case size is 41.0mm. The movement is a Sellita Caliber SW200 automatic. Water resistant up to 100m. 

Price: $2,000 (Source: www.tudorwatch.com).

7. TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 AUTOMATIC

TAG has a respected and celebrated motor racing heritage. For those who like fast cars that get them places on time, comes the formula 1 collection. It’s priced appropriately at an entry level for the brand. The watch features a rotating bezel and looks fast and cool with its red and black chronograph face and red rubber strap.

While the model highlighted here is a quartz, they do offer a version with a basic automatic and a handsome stainless-steel band for right around the $2000 mark. Case size is 43.0mm. Quartz movement. Water resistant up to 200m. 

Price: $1850 (Source: www.tagheuer.com).

8. RADO CAPTAIN COOK

If you know, you know… Rado is the insider’s watch brand, especially among a hip, upmarket crowd. The stylish, vintage 60s design is matched by its up-to-date features, to suit even the most discerning needs of the modern watch buyer.

Rado is known for their unique, scratch resistant materials and their Easy Clip System that allows one to switch out the bands effortlessly, without the need of special tools. It looks especially smart and readable with a blue face and white hands and numerals, paired with a bead-of-rice bracelet. It comes in many color and strap combinations. Case size is 42.0mm. Automatic movement with 80-hour reserve. Water resistant up to 200m.

Price: $2000 (Source: www.rado.com).

9. ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER 300 AUTOMATIC CALANDA

Alpina is another Swiss brand that’s become known for its quality, accuracy, endurance and style. They’re billed as the timekeeper of choice for sportsmen, engineers, alpinists, pilots and divers. The Calanda name is derived from the 1913 cargo ship, which was the first to be recorded on the Swiss boat register and was a symbol of neutrality, during the Second World War, ensuring supplies could reach Switzerland by sea.

The model highlighted sports a matt black dial with grained finishing and white markers on the outer ring. The luminous hands are outlined in silver and the white second hand is garnished with a red triangle. The strap is black and grey recycled pet. This is a limited edition to 300 pieces.

The respecter of the environment will appreciate the recycled stainless-steel case and strap. That doesn’t mean however that quality has been sacrificed, as the materials are only sourced from the highest quality pure steel. Case size is 42.0mm. AL-525 Caliber, Automatic movement with 38-hour reserve. Water resistant up to 300m.

Price: $1895 (Source: www.alpinawatches.com).

10. HAMILTON KHAKI AVIATION CONVERTER AUTO GMT

Hamilton aviator watches are known for their dependability and the company’s distinguished service during World War II.  Easily mistaken for a more expensive Breitling, the Khaki Aviation Converter is perfect for the modern pilot and world traveler.

It features a bi-directional, rotating slide-rule bezel, which converts units and currency and a GMT function to keep you on-time in any time zone. It’s gradient blue dial with white and red markers is a crowd pleaser and when paired with a tan calf leather strap, it looks extra keen in the cockpit or at the office. Case size is 44.0mm. Automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve. Water resistant up to 100m.

Price: $1,445 (Source: www.hamiltonwatch.com).

11. LONGINES DOLCEVITA

Longines dates to 1832, making it one of the oldest luxury watch manufactures still in operation. They’re mostly known for their early chronographs and dive watches, though they cover just about every watch type. Here’s something for the ladies. La dolce vita is Italian for the ‘sweet life’ and this watch is that.

Its rectangular case and roman numerals are reminiscent of Cartier’s pricier Tank collection. The two-tone rose gold and stainless-steel case with sliver “flinqué” dial, painted black roman numerals and blue steel hands are the epitome of class and sophistication.

This is a well-priced dress watch that adds a nice touch of strength and femininity to one’s wrist, whether dressed up or down. Case size is 20.80 x 32.00mm. It has a quartz movement. Water resistant to 30m.

Price: $1900 (Source: www.longines.com).

12. OLLECH & WAJS P-104 S

Ollech and Wajs is one of the best kept secrets in the watch industry of the last six decades. They were the first watch company to be given a depth rating of 1000m and they’ve been tested in the world’s oceans and the Artic Circle. Worn by skindivers, astronauts, soldiers and MI5 British agents, they’ve returned from obscurity to resurrect their popular tool watches of the 60s and 70s.

The model P-104 S does far more than its deceptively simple appearance might lead you to believe, at first blush, for a non-chronograph pilot’s watch. The bezel allows for quick calculations of airspeed, navigation and wind. The black face with white and orange markers and Super-LumiNova hands give the watch a unique look. The stainless-steel beads-of-rice band has a double lock deployant clasp. 

Case size is 39.56mm. It has an ETA 2824-2 automatic. Water resistant to 300m. 

Price: $1400 (Source: www.ow-watch.ch).

13. MONTA ATLAS GMT 24 HOUR DATE

Monta is a Swiss-made, American based, boutique watch brand, out of St. Lous, Mo. It’s a micro-brand that’s worth a serious look. While they’re a young company, they have shown a serious commitment to maintaining the centuries-old tradition of fine Swiss watch making.

Their work is earning the respect of watch aficionados and has proven competitive, even against more established makers. The Atlas GMT feels more opulent, engineered and refined, than its modest price would suggest. Its atlas blue dial, with its lacquered finish, gives the timepiece a wet look. It’s an exclusive shade to Monta and looks particularly striking against the red-tipped GMT hand, giving it a sporty feel.

The sword style, Super-LumiNova hands are easy to read. The quick-adjust clasp with its three micro adjustments is a premium feature typically found on more expensive timepieces. Case size is 38.5mm. It has a Monta Caliber m-23 automatic movement with a 56- hour reserve. Water resistant to 150m. 

Price: $1950 (Source: www.montawatch.com).

14. ZODIAC LIMITED EDITION SUPER SEA WOLF WORLD TIME AUTOMATIC STAINLESS-STEEL

Ariste Calame, the son of a watchmaker, founded Zodiac in 1882. He was driven to make the most accurate watch in the world. That led to a line of pocket watches with their own calibers and movements. Today, Zodiac, owned by Fossil, are most known for their Super Sea Wolf diver watches.

Their zenith in the American market was in the 50s and 60s. Often remembered for their black and white magazine ads featuring adventurous skindivers discovering priceless lost treasures and lines like, “Most popular watch in ¾ of the world,” in reference to the fact that ¾ of our world is underwater. Their designs are both modern and a throwback inspiration to their mid-20^th century tool watch designs. 

The Limited-Edition Super Sea Wolf World Time Auto comes in four color combinations. The selection I’ve made is their silver case and face with its snappy red bezel. The silver stainless-steel bracelet includes a lobster clasp. Their GMT world time features make it a popular watch for globetrotters. 

Case size is 40.0mm. Automatic movement. Water resistant to 200m. 

Price: $1795 (Source: https://www.zodiacwatches.com).

15. SQUALE PERISCOPE

More than six decades old, Squale, a French word for shark, was founded in Switzerland, relocated to Milan and has since returned to Chiasso, Switzerland. They have supplied timepieces to the Italian Air Force and Navy. Known mostly for their dive watches, the company builds durable, stylish timepieces. This Periscope model was made in partnership with Drass, the Italian submarine manufacture.

This design is based on Squale’s most celebrated model, the Squale Master of the 70s. It features a 120-click unidirectional bezel and matt black face with no numerals. The indexes and hands are a Luminous, Blue Lume, which pop well against the black. Case size is 49.0mm. Mechanical automatic movement. Water resistant to 500m.

Price: $1340 (Source: https://www.exquisitetimepieces.com).

16. Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic

The Maurice Lacroix company is best known for their Masterpiece collection, which skyrocketed them to success in the 90s. That line features its own movement, made in house. Their watches are both well-made and arresting pieces of modern art.

Unfortunately, the Masterpiece collection is outside our price range for this list, but some pre-owned models can be found at reasonable prices. The Aikon model is fortunately priced in our range and offers the same beauty and next level engineering, short of the inhouse movement. Its silver indexes are set against a fetching blue sun brushed, Clous de Paris pattern dial with a stainless-steel bracelet.

The watch features include hours, minutes, seconds and date, with a solid back to the case. The level of detailed finishing work on this timepiece is notable and makes it well worth the price. Case size is 39.0mm. Mechanical automatic movement with a 38-hour reserve. Water resistant to 200m.

Price: $2000 (Source: https://www.exquisitetimepieces.com).

17. LOUIS ERARD HERITAGE OPEN GREEN DIAL

Louis Erard is a privately held company headquartered in Le Noirmont, Switzerland, in the Canton of Jura region, known for its watchmakers. The company founded the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaking school in 1929. Louis Erard has collaborated with Leeds United Football Club and Ultima Sports on collections. In 2020 the company was nominated for the GPHG Challenge award.

The Heritage collection offers two color options, a blue dial inspired by the magical “L’Heure bleue,” or ‘blue hour,’ and a green sunburst dial. I’ve chosen the green dial, with its satin finish, as it’s said to be inspired by the nature and virtue of the Swiss Jura. The silver hands and markers look especially sharp against the green to black gradient of the face.

The 12 o’clock position reveals an openwork glimpse of the Sellita SW200-1 automatic winding movement. A movement that is celebrated by horologists for its accuracy. This is an excellent dress watch that will be noticed on the wrist, with its black crocodile style calf leather strap. Case size is 41.0mm. Mechanical automatic movement. Water resistant to 50m.

18. ORIS BIG CROWN PROPILOT BIG DAY DATE

Finally, a true pilot’s watch with a design that breaks out from the pack. The watch layout is clean and simple, but Oris adds some remarkable finishing details, like its angled coin edge bezel motif. This is a handsome pilots watch that functions well as an everyday and, in my opinion, could be paired with a brown leather bomber jacket and aviator sunglass for a smashing good look!

The ProPilot offers a plethora of variations around its basic design, along with several dial color options. The model I’ve selected offers a grey dial, matched with an olive textile strap. The face is especially readable with large numerals and given that its water resistant to 100m, it offers some versatility in its use. Case size is 44.0mm. The automatic movement is made in house and features a day and date. Water resistant to 100m.

Price: $1900 (Source: https://www.oris.ch).

19. Fortis Flieger F-39

Founded in 1912, Fortis made its mark on the watch industry, as the inventor of the first automatic watch. They also introduced some of the first waterproof watches to the market. The brand has become known for its rugged, accurate, automatic tool watches. Worn by movers and shakers, jetsetters, visionaries and explorers, their watches have been tested in space and just about every challenging environment on earth. 

The Flieger F-39 is a versatile watch, which adds a screw-down crown and rotating, secondary-time-zone bezel, to its already impressive list of pilot functions. The F-39 offers an exceptionally clean-cut look, with a black opalin dial and Superluminova X1 with green afterglow hour and minute hands and markers, with an orange second hand. All paired with a black leather strap.

Case is 41.0mm. Automatic movement with bi-directionally rotating special rotor. Water resistant up to 200m.

Price: $1,900 (Source: www.fortis.com).

20. MIDO OCEAN STAR GMT SPECIAL EDITION

Founded in 1918 and headquartered in Le Locle, Switzerland, Mido, Spanish for “I measure,” is a watch company that too often flies under the radar. Mido produces some high-quality timepieces that deserve another look. Some are even calling the Ocean Star GTM the best value Swiss GMT around. 

The dial of the Ocean Star GMT Special Edition is a rich blue with white markers, while the hour and minute hands are outlined in silver. The tip of the second hand is outlined in red, as is the GMT hand. The day/night indicator is finished in a two-tone red and blue.

Not only is this a dive watch, but it also functions as a true GMT or Traveler’s GMT and includes an engraving on the back of the case, showing all the time zones of the world. The watch comes with two bands, a stainless-steel bracelet with a satin finish and a NATO-like strap. I think it looks especially handsome with the red, white and blue strap. 

Case size is 44.0mm. Automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve. Water resistant up to 200m. 

Price: $1,390 (Source: www.midowatches.com).

PRE-OWNED OPTIONS

While not officially included in our Top-Twenty list, I’ll mention two other exceptional Swiss-made watches in the pre-owned category, for your consideration. When buying a pre-owned watch, please consult a reputable dealer, like Exquisite Timepieces, who can help you find the luxury timepiece you’re looking for and ensure its authenticity and the quality of its condition.

1. PRE-OWNED OMEGA SPEEDMASTER

Many horologists and watch enthusiasts alike, consider the Speedmaster to be the greatest mechanical sports watch ever made, but it’s also an excellent allrounder. It was introduced in 1957 as a sport and racing chronograph, born out of Omega’s legacy as the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games.

You’re most likely to find Speedmasters from the 80s through the 00s in this price range. Many with useful features like date and multi-calendars, plus special editions. If you’re starting a new watch collection, I like the versatility of this watch. It can just as easily be worn with jeans and a t-shirt, as it can with a suit.

This watch serves as an excellent introduction into the luxury watch market and carries with it the history of one of the oldest, most reliable and respected watchmakers in Switzerland. Some Chronograph dials can look too busy, but Omega does an excellent job of making these look clean and timeless. These watches come in various case sizes, with automatic and Manual-Wind Chronograph movements.  

Price: $1,500 – $2,000 (Source: www.hiconsumption.com).

2. PRE-OWNED BREITLING AEROSPACE EVO

First released in 1985, the Breitling Aerospace was marketed to pilots and jetsetters who needed a timepiece with multi-functionality. What made it unique was its LED displays, titanium case and large numerals on the dial. I know a celebrated American screenwriter, who’s also a Captain in the Israeli Defense Forces, that uses this as his daily.

Whenever he pitches one of his stories to a studio boss or wealthy investor, he has a habit of taking off his Aerospace and setting it on the conference table in front of him. It’s his way of showing he has respect for his audience’s time and his pitch will be a tight five-minutes. Whether you’re wearing this in the cockpit, in a boardroom or on a battlefield, this watch gets the job done. 

The Titanium casing is strong, but light and therefore the fit of this watch is especially comfortable on the wrist. It comes in various case sizes. There aren’t too many quartz movements that could make a ‘best luxury watch list,’ but this is surely one of them. It comes in chronograph and GMT. Many models include alarm, timer, minute repeater, day/date and night vision features. 

Case size 40.0mm. Quartz. Water resistant up to 100m.

Price: $1,950 (Source: New York Jewelers).

CLOSING THOUGHTS

Subjectivity comes with the territory of any ‘best watch list’, but we think our list offers our readers a smattering of excellent, well researched choices from dive, dress, everyday, chronographs, GMTs and select microbrand timepieces. Swiss-made watches come with a premium and a $2000 price cap significantly narrows the field, which is why you won’t find too many Swiss only lists at this price point, in your google search.

We therefore hope this list serves to guide you in your search for your next truly remarkable, quality timepiece, at a steal! Remember to contact your knowledgeable friends at Exquisite Timepieces for help with all your watching buying, trading selling, and repair needs and take advantage of their quick online chat service.