Author: Grant McKay

I last visited Detroit several years ago, and while it still has some great architecture and beautiful old homes along Lake Michigan, it’s a rather depressing place. So, if any American city needs a break and some economic opportunity, it’s Detroit.

Stepping into the jobs vacuum in recent years is Shinola Watches (although they also sell bicycles, leather goods, and other products). Billed as an upstart micro-brand but actually founded by the man behind the billion-dollar watch brand Fossil, Shinola has made a big deal about being “American Built” and their watch factory in Detroit.

This mission of being a part of the city’s revitalization has become a central theme of Shinola’s narrative and public relations strategy. They have even convinced two American presidents (Bill Clinton and Barack Obama) to sing their praises. 

Are Shinola’s claims of being American-Made as true as Honest Abe, or are they as phony as a three-dollar bill? Perhaps more importantly, are they a good value-for-the-money alternative to some of the more well-established luxury watch brands?

About Shinola Watches

While they’re billed as an American micro-brand, they’re hardly a “David among Goliaths”, when one considers that Shinola was founded by Tom Kartsotis in 2011, the man behind Fossil watches, and the company is currently owned by Texas-based Bedrock Group LP (a company that purportedly has more the two billion in assets under its management). 

Shinola has differentiated itself by making a wide-ranging collection of Americana watches with a vintage flair. One of their most well-known collections is the Runwell, a favorite of former American President Bill Clinton (who reportedly owns thirteen Shinola watches, including the Runwell). The Runwell is a great example of the brand’s classic, sturdy design cues, accurate quartz movements, and all-American looks. 

The Vinton is another popular Shinola collection featuring classic inspirations with trendy accents. Known for their unique color options and guilloché dial patterns, the dress timepieces give off an up-market sense of style. 

The Canfield Sport collection offers something for the outdoorsy and active types, with their durability, water-resistant features, and useful chronographs. 

Shinola is viewed by some watch enthusiasts and experts with skepticism. However, they’ve gained a loyal niche following that appreciates their American manufacturing narrative and cause, in addition to their build quality, style, and attention to detail. 

Their watches are priced higher than many of their mid-luxury watch competitors, and this has led some to question their value, especially when considering the discrepancies in their American Built story with the reality of their mixed third-party, foreign parts. 

The History of Shinola

In 1907, the Shinola brand was born, first as a shoe polish company, but in 2011 the brand was revived as a watchmaker in Detroit. Their mission was to do more than just create quality, stylish Americana watches. They were trying to do their bit to kick off a movement to revitalize the city of Detroit, which has been hollowed out by outsourcing manufacturing jobs overseas.

Shinola is known for making unique, vintage American-style watches. One way Shinola has distinguished itself is through its collaborations with celebrated American designers and artists. The collections and limited-edition timepieces they’ve created have furthered their esteem as a curator of the cultural heritage of the city and its artists. It’s also garnered a following among collectors.

They’ve diversified their business platform by branching out into other product lines, including jewelry, leather goods, audio equipment, and a hotel. This effort has attempted to demonstrate that Shinola is more than just a watchmaker. This has been a long-term strategy by the company’s leadership to position Shinola as a luxury lifestyle brand.

Despite their challenges and controversies, Shinola is still a formidable competitor in the mid-range luxury watch market. They’ve managed to find a niche following of loyal customers, and they’ve turned Detroit into a luxury brand, which is an accomplishment of sorts.

Are Shinola Watches Good?

Shinola watches have been praised by the likes of former Presidents Bill Clinton and Barack Obama, former Prime Minister David Cameron of the UK, and American billionaire and owner of the Washington Commanders, Dan Snyder, among others.

They’ve also created some unique collections with local artists that are a diverse celebration of the city they represent. But they’ve also faced their share of criticism, as some see them as little more than a marketing ploy, with audacious ambitions yet lacking the business fundamentals to back up their bravado. 

Not Really “Made In The US”

Despite their claims of revitalizing American manufacturing, it seems their watches are only assembled in the US. The movements are sourced from Switzerland, and many of the components are purportedly a mix of third-party parts from Europe, China, and Thailand. 

When questioned about this, the company has argued (and I’m paraphrasing) that the laws are different for watches than, say, cars, and their claims are technically and legally accurate. To be fair, their timepieces are stamped with the phrase “Built in America”, not “Made in America”. However, whether their claims of American-Built are less than honest is for the watch-buying public to decide.  

Little To No Actual Heritage

In the world of horology, a watchmaker’s heritage counts for a lot. For watch collectors and enthusiasts, there’s more to consider than a watch’s style and perceived build quality. Their history matters to many because it’s a company’s story, and that story identifies the culture and ideals of a company and its founders. 

It’s also a track record of the company’s accomplishments, demonstrating whether they’ve lived up to their stated ideals. This heritage shapes the company’s brand and image in the public’s minds and often is a major determining factor in whether their timepieces will serve as a good, long-term investment. 

Many critics have argued that Shinola has no real heritage. Their argument generally goes like this. Shinola’s founders took an old shoe polish brand totally unrelated to watchmaking and tried to artificially capture the nostalgia of America’s past with their designs and promises to revitalize Detroit.

Yet they’ve fallen short of those promises and have no real connection to a deep watchmaking history. All this speaks to an issue of credibility in the minds of their critics.

Not Great Value For The Money

Typically, a watch micro brand aims to deliver high-quality luxury timepieces for a lower price, making them more attainable to a broader audience. They often keep their collections in the sub-$1,000 category without sacrificing quality materials and solid automatic movements. 

Considering this, Shinola watches aren’t exactly a deal, at least in the minds of some critics. They’re priced as a mid-range luxury watch brand, yet many of their models that are $500-plus models come with cheap, mass-produced quartz movements and other inexpensive third-party parts.

Some simply think there are better options out there and expect more from a mid-range luxury watch at that price point. There’s another side to the story, however. It’s important to acknowledge some of Shinola’s stronger points.  

Several Unique & Tasteful Designs 

Even if the brand isn’t your style, it’s pretty hard to argue that they lack style. Many of their designs are clean and elegant, and some of the dials and color combinations are downright eye-catching. 

At the very least, they should be respected as a fashion brand, considering their ability to consistently balance vintage vibes with modern touches and the diverse representations of their limited editions, birthed from partnerships with local artistry, which perfectly capture the city’s special heritage. 

Decent Build Quality

While the watch experts can take their swipes at the brand’s movements, their cases and dials are well-finished. Often the straps and bracelets are of respectable quality, as well. The timepieces are also both accurate and relatively durable. Most of their products show care and attention to detail when it comes to the exteriors of the watches that most will see and feel.

Most Notable Shinola Watch Collections

Shinola Runwell

The Runwell is arguably Shinola’s most popular collection. It’s available in a wide variety of combinations. The timepiece is Shinola’s take on a field watch, and I think the designs are relatively handsome. One can select a case size of 41mm or 47mm.

The cases come in stainless steel, titanium, gunmetal, and yellow gold plated, among others. Most of the dials feature Arabic numerals, but they come in a plethora of colors, from shades of blue, green, black, silver, gray, white, soft yellow, and orange. 

Some have leather, fabric, or rubber straps; others have stainless steel, PVD-coated options, and titanium bracelets. Some are simple three-hand watches, others are chronographs, and some come with a date display. There are options for quartz movements at a lower price point or automatic movements at a higher price point. Prices range from the upper $500s to over $1,500.

The materials and finishing work speak to the quality of the timepieces. There are contrasting polished and satin finishes on the cases. Some of the leather straps have contrasting hand-stitching. Most of the straps come with a simple tang buckle. Some of the bracelets are brushed and offer twin-release butterfly clasps.  Overall, the Runwell presents well and seems durable.

Shinola Monster

Their Monster collection of sports watches is tough and made for those that like to play hard. Some in the collection are designed for pilots and world travelers with GMT tools, yet others are divers. The cases come in sizes of 40mm, 43mm, and 45mm and materials ranging from carbon to brushed titanium to stainless steel. 

They offer rotating bezels for diving or GMT that, in some cases, feature ceramic inserts. The dials come in a variety of colors, like black, white, shades of blue, shades of green, and orange. Some have indices, others have a mix of Roman numerals and indices, and all of them have date windows. 

The collection includes bracelets of titanium and steel. Many of the bracelets offer micro-adjustment. Others have leather, rubber, or fabric straps. All of the timepieces in this collection are equipped with automatic movements, primarily from Sellita, and some are superior, while others are more basic. 

They all feature screw-down crowns, with the divers boasting a water resistance of 300 meters, while most of the others are resistant to 100 meters. MSRPs range from mid-$1600s to nearly $3,000.  

Shinola Canfield

The Canfield is a collection of sporty yet refined timepieces from Shinola for both men and women. The watches straddle the line between dressy and sporty. Some of the timepieces in this collection have similar style cues to their Runwell line, with some notable distinctions, such as unique leather straps in colors like oxblood (a kind of purple-brown). 

Most in the collection feature quartz movements, though one is automatic. The one automatic comes with a Sellita movement with a 56-hour power reserve. Most are two and three-register chronographs, though they have a couple of simple displays. Case sizes range from 38mm to 45mm, and while most are stainless steel, some are plated gold and steel. 

These are larger watches, as even 38mm is fairly large for a woman’s watch. Many traditionalists would consider even their smaller 38mm offerings to be typically a size for men. The dials come in a variety of colors: gunmetal, brown, black, blue, gray, and white. 

They either have fixed bezels or no bezel at all, and some have features like tachymeter scales. Some dial options offer a classic mother-of-pearl texture. Most have Arabic numerals and date windows. They have screw-down crowns, and some offer push buttons.

Most of them are water resistant to 50 meters, so they are sportier in design than use. The bracelet and strap materials range from ceramic to leather and metal. Some of the leather straps are perforated and have a racing design. Priced from the upper $600s to nearly $3,000 MSRP. 

Shinola Detrola

The Detrola collection is a more everyday, casual wristwatch. All of the watches in this collection have quartz movements and reasonable price points. The cases range in size from 40mm and up to 43mm. Some of the cases are steel, but mostly they’re a composite made from plastics and other recycled materials found in the ocean. 

They all have date windows. The dial colors come in: clear, natural, black, blue, green, and yellow. They’re all vibrant, fun colors, as are many of the bezels. They offer straps in nylon, rubber, silicone, and ocean plastic.

Most of them are water resistant to 50 and 100 meters. The watches in this collection are decent, everyday watches that come in exciting colors and offer a statement of one’s love for the environment. Priced from the upper $300s to the mid-$400s MSRP.  

Shinola Mechanic

This collection is a tribute to the sign painters of Detroit that referred to themselves as “Mechanics”, for their commitment to exactness and the lucidness of their messages. This collection features three timepieces, all with vintage vibes, from their domed crystal to the sign painting cues on the dial. 

They all have 39mm stainless steel cases, and they’re all simple three-hand watches. The dial color options are cream, green, and black with Roman numerals. The open case back reveals a mechanical hand-wound movement. They’re all fitted with leather straps in brown, green, and black. 

They all come with push-down crowns and 50 meters of water resistance. All three timepieces are smartly styled, and one would undoubtedly get a lot of positive comments on these. However, at a price of $1,500, it’s hard to justify when one is only getting a simple watch that offers no features other than time, including a mechanical movement, in contrast to an automatic watch that lacks a screw-down crown.  

Should You Buy a Shinola Watch?

There’s a lot to like about Shinola watches from an ascetics standpoint. They’re both modern with their simple, clean designs and yet vintage in their choice of materials and style. Before you jump in and buy any watch, it’s important to consider the pros and cons of each brand and specific model.

Shinola especially appeals to those who admire the company’s mission of revitalizing Detroit and the philosophy of bringing manufacturing jobs back to America. Wearing a Shinola timepiece will send a moral signal, letting everyone know where you stand.

Shinola also appeals to watch buyers who value fashion over a watch company’s heritage or the intricacy and complexity of a watch’s movement. Shinola really delivers on fashion-forward concepts and has positioned itself as a luxury brand that goes beyond watches.

There’s also a loyal following of collectors that value Shinola for their limited-edition timepieces, made in partnership with some talented local artists, which have captured the spirit of the city and its heritage in their designs. 

Besides the controversy of being made/built in Detroit, the main criticism of Shinola from watch experts is that they have high price points yet offer few features and lower-end movements. These are the same kinds of criticisms that a watch company like Movado has faced, by “watch snobs”, who tend to put a lower premium on fashion in watches. 

Alternatives to Shinola Watches

There are many competitors to Shinola that one might consider. We’ll identify three that are trying to capture a similar American ethos. 

Bulova

Bulova has a rich history, founded in 1875 as an American luxury watch company, they’re currently owned by Citizen, a Japanese conglomerate. The brand was first introduced to American audiences via the radio and is often remembered fondly by older American generations for its radio ads. 

They’re also known for being the company that standardized the production of watches and for developing the first fully electronic watch, with tuning-fork-based technology, which at the time allowed them to produce the most accurate timepieces in the world. 

They offer a wider range of designs, in contrast to Shinola. Bulova is priced more conservatively and gives buyers a better value-for-the-money option over Shinola. They were also a favorite of Frank Sinatra… so you can’t get more American than that.

Hamilton 

Hamilton is another company with a rich American heritage. They were founded in 1892 in Lancaster, PA. As a brand, they cemented their relationship with the American public by producing quality wristwatches for the American military during World War Two. 

They’re now owned by Swatch Group, a Swiss company, and they’re known for their build quality and the superiority and reliability of their mechanical movements. Hamilton offers classic Americana designs, like Shinola, but their movements are more highly respected by watch experts. 

BALL Watch Company

The BALL Watch Company is another watch brand with deep American roots and a connection to America’s railroad industry. They offer rugged and spirited designs and are well respected for the quality of their movements and their extensive features. Some are priced higher than Shinola, but they have many models that are in the same price range while offering more features.  

Parting Thoughts 

There’s a lot to like about Shinola, from its mission to its vintage and artistic designs. They build quality, reliable, and accurate wristwatches that have attracted the attention and admiration of a number of high-profile politicians and businesspersons. 

They’ve also attracted criticism over their claims about being built in Detroit when some argue they’re little more than assembled in the city. They disappoint others with their higher price points, lower-end movements, and lack of complex features. Ultimately, it’s up to you, the buyer. Hopefully, this article has given you enough information to help you make an informed decision. So, what do you think?

Dive watches have been a favorite among watch enthusiasts for decades and for a good reason. These timepieces are not only stylish but also incredibly practical and engineered to withstand the rigors of underwater exploration. 

From oversized statement pieces to minimalist timepieces, the watch industry has produced a wide range of styles and sizes to suit every taste. However, the trend in recent years has been away from larger watches. The 39mm size has emerged as a popular choice, striking the perfect balance between functionality and wearability. 

In this article, we will explore some of the best 39mm dive watches currently available on the market, analyzing their features, performance, and style. From established brands to emerging players, we will provide a comprehensive overview of the best options for those in the market for a high-quality 39mm dive watch. 

Whether you’re an avid diver or simply someone who appreciates a well-made timepiece, read on to discover the top 39mm dive watches on the market.

About Dive Watches

A good dive watch should have a few key features. The most crucial aspect of a dive watch is its water resistance. A dive watch should be able to withstand water pressure up to at least 200 meters, with some models capable of handling depths up to 1000 meters or more.

Another important feature is the unidirectional rotating bezel, which allows divers to track elapsed time while underwater accurately. Dive watches should also be easy to read, with a clear and concise display that offers high contrast and good visibility in low-light conditions.

I favor a clean, uncomplicated dial sans the date window. However, that’s just a personal preference.  Finally, a good dive watch should be durable and able to withstand the rigors of underwater environments. Materials such as titanium, high-quality stainless steel (such as 316L and 904L), and ceramic are commonly used for dive watch cases, as they are tough and corrosion-resistant.

History of Dive Watches 

Ask a room full of horologists who made the first dive watch, and you might get a few different answers. Some will say Rolex with its 1926 Oyster case. Others will credit Omega’s 1930s Marine. Yet others will praise the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms, as it was the first to include all the traditional features one would expect in a modern dive watch. 

I can’t settle that debate, but I’ll say Rolex started something and clearly finished it when they later built, arguably, the most iconic diver; the Submariner. 

In the ‘40s and ‘50s, dive watches continued to evolve, with many new features and advancements being introduced. During World War II, dive watches became increasingly important for military operations, with brands like Rolex and Omega creating specialized watches for the military.

In the 1960s and 1970s, dive watches gained popularity among recreational divers, with many new models being released by various brands. These watches were designed to withstand greater depths and pressure, with some models featuring helium release valves to prevent the watch crystal from popping off during decompression. 

Should You Buy a 39mm Dive Watch? 

A 39mm dive watch is a perfect combination of form and function. Here are a few reasons why you should consider buying one:

1.          Size: The 39mm size is ideal for a dive watch, as it perfectly balances readability and wearability. 

2.          Style: 39mm dive watches come in a wide range of styles, from classic and timeless to modern and bold. They can be dressed up or down, making them versatile for any occasion.

3.          Durability: Dive watches are designed to withstand harsh environments and extreme conditions, making them a reliable tool for underwater activities. With features like water resistance, shock resistance, and scratch-resistant crystals, a 39mm dive watch is a durable investment that will last for years to come.

4.          Functionality: Dive watches offer useful features like unidirectional rotating bezels, luminous dials, and depth gauges, making them a reliable tool for divers. Even if you’re not a diver, these features make the watch practical for everyday use.

5.          Value: High-quality dive watches hold their value over time, making them a good investment. Many brands offer warranties and after-sales services, ensuring your watch stays in top condition and retains its value.

A 39mm dive watch is a wise choice for anyone looking for a smart-looking and functional timepiece that can withstand rigorous conditions. With its perfect size, durability, and versatility, a 39mm dive watch is a reliable tool that will also elevate your style game.

The Best 39mm Dive Watches for Men

TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 M79030N-0001

The Black Bay 58 is a vintage-inspired diver-style watch. The brown/black bezel insert with rose gold appliqué is warm and reminds one of late ’50s dive watches, complete with a red triangle at the 12 o’clock position. The sword-shaped hands put off a ‘60s vibe.

The black dial features the modern Tudor shield logo, contrasted by their pre-1969 rose logo on the crown. So, there are a couple of eras represented in this timepiece. The watch sits at 12mm thick on the wrist, perhaps slightly thinner than a Rolex Submariner.

It will easily slide under a dress shirt. There’s some nice contrast on the case between polished and satin finishes. The watch is powered by the in-house MT5402 automatic with a 70-hour power reserve. In fact, the movement was specially designed for this timepiece to allow for a smaller case size of 39mm and a slimmer profile.

There’s a hacking seconds feature, and it’s water resistant up to 200m. There’s a Glidelock system to get the perfect micro fit and a secure clasp to keep the timepiece in place. 

Price: $3,950  

OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN 600M 215.30.40.20.01.001

The Seamaster Planet not only serves as a true professional dive watch, but it looks great doing it. It wears more substantial on the wrist at 14.3mm thick. It’s also heavy. The stainless steel case measures 39mm (technically 39.5mm). 

The black dial features a mix of numbers and indices. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. The broad arrow minute hand pointing to the triangle index are both green-lumed, making it easy to time your dive, even in dark waters. The watch also features hacking seconds for precise timing. 

The timepiece is powered by the Calibre 8800 automatic with a 55-hour power reserve. There’s a helium-escape valve, and it’s water-resistant up to 600m. The three-link stainless steel bracelet offers a satin finish, and there’s an extension to fit over a wetsuit. 

Price: $6,700

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SEAQ 1-39-11-06-80-70

The Glashütte SEAQ has classic dive watch looks. Its stainless steel case measures 39mm (39.5mm). The bezel and dial are black. The markings on the bezel are white, and the numbers and hands on the dial are a soft yellow.

There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. The timepiece is powered by the 39-11 automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. It’s respectably water resistant to 200m. 

One of the notable features of the SeaQ is its bracelet, which is made of stainless steel and features a folding clasp with a dive extension. The bracelet is comfortable to wear and complements the watch’s overall aesthetic perfectly.

Price: $9,900 

SEIKO PROSPEX SLA043

This Seiko Prospex model was introduced in 2020, marking it the 55th anniversary of the original 1965 Seiko dive watch. The stainless steel case measures 39mm, and the dial is a dark blue with chunky silver-lined indices and hands. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. The edge of the case is a ribbed coin style. 

It’s powered by an automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve. It has a screw-down crown with 200m water resistance. The patterned silicone black strap features a tang buckle. This limited edition, with 1,700 in circulation, is the timepiece of choice for the Japanese Antarctic Expedition. 

Price: $4,500 

LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST L3.781.4.96.6

The Longines Hydroconquest 39mm is a beautiful and functional dive watch. This particular model features a stainless steel case and bracelet with a unidirectional rotating bezel.

The dial of the Hydroconquest is a sunburst blue, with appliqued indices and hands. The date window is located at the 3 o’clock position. The watch is water-resistant up to 300 meters.

The movement powering the Hydroconquest is the automatic Calibre L888.2, which has a power reserve of up to 72 hours. 

The Hydroconquest three-link bracelet has polished center links and features a double security folding clasp with an integrated diving extension. The bracelet is comfortable to wear and fits securely on the wrist.

Price: $1,800

ORIS AQUIS 01 733 7732 4155-07 8 21 05PEB

The Oris Aquis is a lovely and functional dive watch. The stainless steel case measures 39mm (39.5mm) with a unidirectional rotating bezel. 

The dial of the Aquis is a stunning shade of blue, with applique indices and hands. The date window is located at the 6 o’clock position and is easy to read. The watch is water-resistant up to 300 meters.

The movement powering the Aquis is the Oris 733, which is a self-winding movement with a power reserve of up to 41 hours. The three-link bracelet is made of stainless steel and features a folding clasp with an extension. The bracelet is comfortable to wear and fits securely on the wrist.

Price: $2,300

BALTIC AQUASCAPHE CLASSIC BLUE GILT 

The Baltic Aquascaphe Classic Blue Gilt is a chic dive watch with vintage vibes and a modern touch. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a unidirectional rotating bezel. The bezel has a dark blue inlay. The dial of the Aquascaphe features a sunray blue that is nearly black at the edges.

The movement powering the Aquascaphe is the automatic Miyota 9039, which has a power reserve of up to 42 hours. The watch is water-resistant up to 200 meters. The tropic diamond patterned black strap gives it a sporty look. 

Price: $630 

YEMA SUPERMAN 500 YSUP22A39-AMS1

Yema is a French watch company that was founded in 1948 by Henry Louis Belmont. The name “Yema” was derived from the French words “Yachting Timer”. Originally, Yema focused on producing timepieces for yachtsmen and sailors, but it quickly expanded its product line to include watches for other sports and activities.

The Yema Superman is a dive watch that was introduced in 1963. It quickly gained popularity among divers for its durability, reliability, and innovative features. The first version of the Superman, known as the “Skin Diver,” was water-resistant to 300 meters and featured a unidirectional rotating bezel.

Today’s Superman 500 is made of ultra-high quality 316L stainless steel (as expected for a luxury dive watch), which is resistant to corrosion from salt water. Its black glossy dial, cream printed markers, and simple, uncluttered, no-date design make for a highly readable dial, even underwater. 

The case measures 39mm and sits high at 13.4mm thick. One drawback some have mentioned is the long lugs. They make it difficult to find other aftermarket straps. However, the steel bracelet that comes with it is a rather handsome design that’s thin and light. It features a glide system and can extend to fit over a wetsuit. 

The timepiece has a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 500m. Making this a serious dive watch. It’s powered by a YEMA2000 in-house movement with a 42-hour power reserve. This is an excellent dive watch, for the price, with solid vintage looks. 

Price: $1,250

OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 1957 TRILOGY 234.10.39.20.01.001

The Omega Seamaster 300 1957 Trilogy is an attractive homage to the original Seamaster 300 that was introduced in 1957, but the build quality and features you’d expect from a modern luxury timepiece. The watch is part of Omega’s Trilogy collection, which celebrates the brand’s most iconic models from the past.

The Seamaster 300 1957 Trilogy is powered by Omega’s Caliber 8806 movement, which is certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS. It has a power reserve of up to 55 hours and is resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, ensuring exceptional accuracy and durability.

The watch’s black dial is adorned with vintage-style but highly luminescent hour markers and hands. The unidirectional rotating bezel, made from black aluminum, is true to the watches of the era which it pays tribute to. The case, which has a diameter of 39mm, is made of stainless steel and is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters.

One of the notable features of the Seamaster 300 1957 Trilogy is the “lollipop” seconds hand, which is a nostalgic tip of the hat to the original model. The bracelet features contrasting satin and polished links. The clasp is substantial with a push button slider.

Price: $7,050  

TUDOR PELAGOS 39 M25407N-0001

The Tudor Pelagos is the perfect accessory for adventure seekers and diving enthusiasts who appreciate superior craftsmanship and attention to detail. The Pelagos’ robust 39mm grade 2 titanium case is lightweight, durable, and resistant to corrosion.

The watch also features a unidirectional ceramic bezel with a coin edge. The watch is powered by the in-house Calibre MT5400 automatic with a power reserve of up to 70 hours, providing optimal precision and accuracy. It’s water resistant to 200m.

The Pelagos has a black sunray dial that, in some lights, can appear gray. There’s a bit of an overhang with the bezel, in contrast to the Black Bay 58 model. The Pelagos, however, is slightly thinner, measuring 11.8mm on the wrist. 

The stain-finished titanium bracelet has a glide-fit system and a diver’s extension to fit over a wetsuit. The folding clasp is well-done and similar to a Rolex Submariner with the overhang of the Tudor symbol. It also comes with a rubber strap. 

This is a truly handsome timepiece that looks and feels well-made at less than half the price of the big brother Submariner. 

Price: $4,600 

HALIOS FAIRWIND

Halios is a well-respected Canadian-based microbrand watch company that has been making waves in the industry since its inception in 2009. The brand is known for its attention to detail, commitment to quality, and aesthetic appeal, making it a favorite among watch collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.

The Fairwind model has historically sold out quickly, sometimes in 20 minutes or less. This has created demand, driving up the price on the secondhand market. This has led some to call Halios the Rolex of microbrands. 

The Fairwind model offers an all-stainless steel construction, with the case measuring 39mm. The watch measures 12.4mm thick, including the domed crystal. The dial has a nice vintage look and comes in two color options, blue and gray. It has thin silver-lined hands, in contrast to its chunky indices. The seconds hand has an orange triangle tip. 

The bracelet nicely contrasts between a polished and brushed finish. The 60-stop, bidirectional bezel has a solid feel. The timepiece is powered by SW200-1 self-winding movement with no date. It has a 40-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 200m.

Price: $775  

SQUALE SUB-39 SUPERBLUE SUB-39-RD

Squale, French for Shark, is a Swiss company that started as a case maker. They made watch cases for many fine, notable watch companies. Squale started making their own timepieces under the direction of founder Charles von Büren. Büren was a passionate diver, and his own research drove the engineering of their dive watches.

In fact, they’re credited for making the first 1,000m dive watch, without the need for a helium escape valve, back in 1967. The latest Sub-39 is a smart-looking dive watch with a 39mm stainless steel case (real-world measurements might be a touch larger) and bezel.

The dial comes in a beautiful shade of blue that instantly sends one on a mental vacation to somewhere tropical. There’s a date window at the 3 o’clock position, adding a touch of functionality. It’s powered by a Stellita SW 200-1 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve.

It’s water-resistant to 300m. The timepiece comes with a blue perforated rubber strap with a tangle buckle. It might just be the perfect dive watch, especially at a steal of a price. 

Price: $1,380 

LORIER NEPTUNE

Lorier is a young watch brand with a unique approach to watchmaking. Founded by a husband and wife in New York City in 2018, the company’s mission is to create high-quality timepieces inspired by vintage designs from the 60s and 70s. The brand’s watches are known for their sophisticated, minimalist aesthetic and attention to detail.

Lorier’s designers pay meticulous attention to every aspect of the watch, from the typeface on the dial to the shape of the hands. The result is a collection of timeless and contemporary watches with a sense of refinement that belies their affordable price point.

The Neptune model takes you on a trip back in time to 1957 with its classic, vintage looks. Everything feels authentic, from its black dial and gilt details to its acrylic bezel insert. Wearing this watch, one can almost imagine themselves on the swim deck of a yacht, in international waters with James Bond actor Sean Connery.

Ready to embark on an underwater exploration of some supervillain’s sinister underwater lab. But I’m getting a little carried away. Under the hood of the timepiece, you’ll find a Miyota 90S5 automatic movement with no date. It’s respectably water resistant to 200m. Made of marine-grade stainless steel, the 39mm case, and three-link bracelet, with push button clasp and micro-adjustment, round out the timepiece handsomely. 

Price: $499  

SERICA DIVE WATCH 5303-1

Serica is a small French company headquartered in Paris. They’ve made some noteworthy budget timepieces. The name derives from a distant trading outpost of the silk road. Serica’s diver has unique good looks with early dive watch vibes.

The classic 39mm (perhaps a touch smaller real-world measurement) stainless steel case and its black bezel are well done. The velvety smoothness of the unidirectional bezel is remarkable. The black dial, with painted white hands, features a distinctive inward arrangement of some of its indices. 

The Swiss Calibre Newton is a modest automatic movement with a respectable 44-hour power reserve. With a solid screw-down crown, it’s water-resistant to 300m. There’s also a GMT second time-zone feature. The bracelet is made of a thin, foldable shark mesh that further adds to the individuality of this timepiece. 

Price: $1,175

STEINHART OCEAN 39 BLUE CERAMIC 103-0724

Founded in 2001 by watchmaker Gunther Steinhart, the company is based in Augsburg, Germany. They’re known for producing homage watches, and it seems they’re especially inspired by Rolex. All of their watches are powered by solid Swiss moments.

They’re also known to only sell their watches online. The Ocean 39 Blue Ceramic features a 39mm stainless steel case. The dial is a mother-of-pearl blue with silver-lined hands and indices. At the 3 o’clock position is a magnified date window.

The watch sits at about 13mm on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by an ETA 2824-2/SW 200 automatic movement. It’s water resistant to 300m. The watch comes with a respectable stainless steel three-link bracelet with a safety deployment clasp. 

Price: $535

Parting Thoughts

If you’re in the market for a dive watch that offers a perfect blend of style, functionality, and wearability, then any of the top 39mm dive watches explored in this article would be an excellent choice. With their durable construction, versatile design, and top-notch features, these watches are sure to impress. Even if you’re not a diver, these tool watches offer many useful features and make for a good daily watch or a special addition to your collection.

The Swatch Group has come a long way from the two nearly bankrupt companies that founded it in the ‘80s. Today it’s one of the world’s largest watchmaking conglomerates, with a diverse range of brands under its umbrella. 

From the luxury watch brands like Breguet and Omega to the affordable fashion watches of Swatch, the group has something for everyone. It is not too dissimilar to major automotive companies like Toyota, Ford, and Volkswagen, which have their budget, mid-level, and premium brands.

However, with so many brands, it can be challenging to know which ones stand out above the rest. In this article, we’ll explore some of the top Swatch Group brands and consider what makes them unique. We’ll delve into the history and heritage of each brand, their most popular models, and what sets them apart from their competitors.

We’ll start with the budget brand Swatch, followed by the iconic Omega brand, with its rich history in space exploration and sport. We’ll further consider brands like Blancpain, a brand known for its innovative complications and elegant designs. We’ll also explore Tissot and Hamilton’s more affordable yet stylish watches, among others.

About Swatch Group

Swatch Group is a Swiss conglomerate that is one of the world’s largest watchmaking companies. Founded in 1983, the company is headquartered in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, and owns a diverse range of watch brands that cater to various price points and styles. Today they have over 30,000 employees in 40 countries.

The company’s purpose is to provide quality watches to a global market. The Swatch Group is also committed to innovation and research, and development, with a focus on creating cutting-edge timepieces that push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking.

One of the most significant assets of the Swatch Group is ETA SA, one of the largest movement manufacturers in the world. ETA produces high-quality movements for many of the group’s brands and other watchmakers worldwide. With over 8,000 employees, ETA is a critical component of the Swiss watchmaking industry, and its movements are renowned for their precision and reliability.

History of the Swatch Group

The Swatch Group’s rich and fascinating history began in the early 1980s. In 1983, the Swiss watch industry was facing a crisis due to the influx of inexpensive quartz watches from Japan, which put traditional Swiss watchmakers out of business.

Nicolas G. Hayek, a Swiss engineer and businessman saw an opportunity to revive the industry by creating a new type of watch that would be affordable, stylish, and made with high-quality Swiss craftsmanship. Hayek founded Swatch Group in 1983, and the company’s first product was the Swatch watch, a colorful, plastic timepiece that was both affordable and fashionable.

The Swatch watch became an instant sensation and helped to revitalize the Swiss watch industry. In the following years, Swatch Group continued to innovate and acquire other watch brands, including Omega in 1985 and Blancpain in 1992.

In 1998, Swatch Group acquired Breguet, one of the oldest and most prestigious watch brands in the world. Breguet was founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, and it has a rich history of innovation and elegance.

The brand’s watches are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike. Another notable acquisition by Swatch Group was Tissot, joining the group in 1983. Tissot is known for its high-quality watches at affordable prices, making it a popular choice for both casual and serious watch enthusiasts.

Hamilton is another brand that joined Swatch Group in 1974. Hamilton was founded in the United States in 1892 and had a long history of producing high-quality watches for pilots, soldiers, and adventurers. Today, Hamilton continues to create stylish and durable watches that are popular among watch enthusiasts and adventurers alike.

The history of the Swatch Group is one of innovation, craftsmanship, and a commitment to revitalizing the Swiss watch industry. The group’s diverse range of brands and its focus on quality and affordability have made it a leader in the watchmaking world. 

Best Brands of Swatch Group

Let’s delve into the history, features, and popular models of each brand.

1. Swatch

The Swatch brand is one of the most well-known and recognizable watch brands in the world. Founded in 1983 by Nicolas G. Hayek as part of the Swatch Group, the brand’s name is a combination of “second” and “watch,” reflecting its focus on creating affordable yet high-quality watches.

One of the brand’s most significant achievements was its role in reviving the Swiss watch industry in the 1980s, which had been struggling due to the rise of Japanese quartz watches. The Swatch watch, which was colorful, affordable, and made with Swiss craftsmanship, became an instant success and helped to restore confidence in the industry.

Over the years, Swatch has created many iconic collections, including the Originals, which featured bold, colorful designs, and the Skin collection, known for its ultra-thin and lightweight watches. The brand has also collaborated with numerous artists and designers, resulting in unique and creative collections such as the Swatch X You and the Swatch Art Special series.

Today, Swatch continues to offer a wide range of watches, from classic designs to playful and quirky styles. Its commitment to affordability and quality has made it a popular choice for casual wear and a collectible item for watch enthusiasts. With its unique designs and rich history, the Swatch brand remains an important part of the watchmaking world.

2. Omega

Omega is a luxury watch brand that has been at the forefront of the watchmaking industry for over 170 years. Founded in Switzerland in 1848, Omega has a rich history of innovation, precision, and durability. The brand’s watches have been used in many important events, including space exploration and the Olympics.

One of the brand’s most notable achievements was its involvement in the space race of the 1960s. Omega was chosen by NASA as the official watch for its astronauts, and the Omega Speedmaster became the first watch to be worn on the moon during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969.

Throughout its history, Omega has released many iconic collections, including the Seamaster, first introduced in 1948 and a symbol of the brand’s commitment to water-resistant watches. The Constellation collection, first released in 1952, is known for its refined elegance and timeless design.

In recent years, Omega has also introduced innovative new collections, such as the Planet Ocean, which features watches with advanced dive features, and the Globemaster, which boasts a unique design and a high level of accuracy.

Overall, Omega’s commitment to quality, precision, and innovation has made it one of the most respected and sought-after watch brands in the world. Its iconic collections and historic achievements have cemented its place in watchmaking history.

3. Longines

Longines is a luxury watch brand that was founded in Switzerland in 1832. The brand has a long and rich history of producing high-quality, elegant timepieces. Longines is known for its classic and timeless designs, which have made it a favorite among watch enthusiasts for over 180 years.

One of the brand’s most notable achievements was the development of the first chronograph movement in 1878, which many other watchmakers quickly adopted. Longines has also been involved in many important sporting events, including the Olympic Games and Formula One racing, and has been the official timekeeper for numerous events over the years.

Longines has released many iconic collections throughout its history, including the Conquest, first introduced in 1954 and a symbol of the brand’s commitment to precision and durability. The Master collection, first released in 2005, is known for its elegant and sophisticated design, while the HydroConquest collection, first introduced in 2007, is a modern and sporty line of watches.

Overall, Longines is a brand known for its timeless design, precision, and durability. Its commitment to quality has made it a favorite among watch enthusiasts for over 180 years. Its iconic collections and historic achievements have cemented its place in the world of luxury watchmaking.

4. Tissot

Tissot is a Swiss watch brand that has been producing high-quality timepieces for over 160 years. Founded in 1853, Tissot has a rich history of innovation and precision, making it one of the most respected brands in the watchmaking industry.

One of the brand’s most notable achievements was the production of the first mass-produced pocket watch with two time zones in 1853. Tissot was also the first watch brand to produce watches made of plastic, stone, and wood.

Tissot has released many iconic collections throughout its history, including the T-Touch, first introduced in 1999 and one of the first touchscreen watches in the world. The T-Classic collection, first introduced in 1996, is known for its elegant and classic designs, while the T-Sport collection offers a range of sporty watches with advanced features.

In recent years, Tissot has continued to innovate, releasing new collections such as the T-Complication collection, which features watches with intricate complications, and the T-Lady collection, which offers a range of elegant watches for women.

Overall, Tissot’s commitment to quality, precision, and innovation has made it one of the world’s most respected and sought-after watch brands. Its iconic collections and historic achievements have cemented its place in luxury watchmaking.

5. Hamilton

Hamilton is a Swiss-American watch brand that has been producing high-quality timepieces for over 100 years. Founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, Hamilton has a rich history of producing watches for aviation, military, and cinema.

During World War II, Hamilton became the primary supplier of timepieces for the U.S. military, producing watches that pilots and navigators used. In the 1950s, Hamilton began to produce watches for Hollywood films, which further cemented its reputation as a brand associated with aviation and adventure.

Hamilton has released many iconic collections throughout its history, including the Khaki Field collection, which offers a range of durable and functional watches inspired by military timepieces. The Ventura collection, first introduced in 1957, featured a unique triangular case and was famously worn by Elvis Presley in the film “Blue Hawaii.”

In recent years, Hamilton has continued to innovate, releasing new collections such as the Intra-Matic collection, which offers a range of vintage-inspired watches with a modern twist, and the Jazzmaster collection, which features elegant and sophisticated timepieces.

Overall, Hamilton’s commitment to quality, innovation, and adventure has made it a favorite among watch enthusiasts for over a century. Its iconic collections and historic achievements have cemented its place in the world of luxury watchmaking.

6. Breguet

Breguet is a Swiss luxury watch brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet in Paris in 1775. Breguet’s legacy as a watchmaker has been upheld by the company for over two centuries, and it is known for producing technologically advanced and aesthetically beautiful timepieces.

Abraham-Louis Breguet is credited with inventing many horological complications still used in watches today, including the tourbillon, the gong spring, and the Breguet overcoil. Breguet watches were favored by European royalty and aristocrats, and the brand’s list of notable clients includes Napoleon Bonaparte, Marie Antoinette, and Queen Victoria.

Breguet has released many iconic collections throughout its history, including the Classique collection, which offers a range of elegant and traditional timepieces, and the Marine collection, which features watches inspired by the brand’s connections to the maritime world. The Reine de Naples collection, first introduced in 2002, pays tribute to the world’s first wristwatch, commissioned by Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810.

Overall, Breguet’s commitment to innovation and elegance has made it one of the most respected and sought-after watch brands in the world. It’s historic achievements and iconic collections have cemented its place in the world of luxury watchmaking.

7. Blancpain

Blancpain is a Swiss luxury watch brand founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain. It is known for its expertise in mechanical watchmaking, including developing the world’s smallest movement and creating the first automatic wristwatch.

Blancpain has released many iconic collections throughout its history, including the Fifty Fathoms collection developed in 1953 for the French Navy’s elite diving unit. The Villeret collection, named after the village where Blancpain was founded, features classic and elegant timepieces that showcase the brand’s traditional craftsmanship.

Blancpain has also made significant contributions to the world of watchmaking, including the development of the first moon phase watch in 1983, which displayed the phases of the moon with a high degree of accuracy. The brand has also been at the forefront of the revival of traditional artisanal crafts such as enamel painting, engraving, and skeletonization.

Overall, Blancpain’s commitment to technical innovation and traditional craftsmanship has made it one of the most respected and sought-after watch brands in the world. Its iconic collections and historic achievements have cemented its place in the world of luxury watchmaking.

8. Gllashütte Original

Glashütte Original is a luxury watch brand based in the German town of Glashütte, known for its precision and high-quality craftsmanship. The brand traces its roots back to the 19th century when watchmaking began to flourish in the region.

It was founded in 1994 as part of the revitalization of the German watchmaking industry after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Glashütte Original’s watchmaking expertise is based on the long-standing tradition of precision engineering and craftsmanship in Glashütte.

The brand is known for its high-quality mechanical movements, which are developed and manufactured in-house. One of Glashütte Original’s most iconic collections is the Senator line, which includes both simple and complicated timepieces.

The Pano collection features watches with asymmetrical dials, and the Vintage collection pays homage to the brand’s heritage with classic designs and details. In recent years, Glashütte Original has also established itself as a leader in the development of innovative technologies, including a silicon balance spring and a new, high-performance escapement system.

Overall, Glashütte Original’s commitment to quality and innovation has made it a respected and sought-after watch brand among collectors and enthusiasts alike.

9. Harry Winston

Harry Winston is a luxury watch and jewelry brand named after its founder, who was known as the “King of Diamonds.” Established in 1932 in New York City, Harry Winston quickly gained a reputation for its exquisite and unique diamond designs.

The brand entered the world of watchmaking in the 1980s and has since become known for its high-end, complex timepieces. Harry Winston’s watch collections are crafted with the same level of precision and attention to detail as its jewelry.

One of Harry Winston’s most iconic collections is the Ocean line, which includes sporty and dressy timepieces. The Midnight collection features elegant dress watches with intricate complications, while the Histoire de Tourbillon line showcases the brand’s expertise in creating complex movements.

In recent years, Harry Winston has also focused on creating timepieces with innovative materials, such as Zalium, a zirconium-based alloy used in some of its sportier models. Overall, Harry Winston’s dedication to both craftsmanship and design has made it a sought-after brand among collectors and those seeking unique, high-end watches.

10. Jaquet Droz

Jaquet Droz is a luxury watch brand known for its artistic, intricate timepieces. The brand was founded by Pierre Jaquet-Droz in 1738 in Switzerland and quickly gained a reputation for its exceptional craftsmanship and innovative designs.

One of Jaquet Droz’s most notable achievements was the creation of the automaton, a mechanical device that simulates human or animal movements. The brand’s founder was particularly famous for his automata, designed to perform complex movements and even write messages.

Jaquet Droz’s watch collections often incorporate elements of this automaton heritage, such as intricate and detailed dials with unique animations. The brand’s iconic collections include the Grande Seconde, which features a large subdial for the seconds hand, and the Lady 8, which incorporates a figure-eight shape into the design.

Jaquet Droz also offers timepieces with complex complications, such as perpetual calendars and minute repeaters, as well as unique materials like ivory and enamel. Overall, Jaquet Droz’s dedication to craftsmanship and creativity has made it a respected and sought-after brand in the world of luxury watches.

11. Mido

Mido is a Swiss watch brand known for its combination of classic and contemporary designs. Founded in 1918 by Georges Schaeren, Mido has been producing timepieces for over a century, with a focus on high-quality craftsmanship and functionality.

Mido’s watch collections often feature sleek, minimalist designs with simple dials and clean lines. The brand’s iconic collections include the Baroncelli, inspired by Italian neoclassical architecture, and the Commander, a vintage-inspired collection that pays homage to Mido’s past while incorporating modern technology.

In recent years, Mido has also developed timepieces with features such as chronographs and GMT functions, further expanding its range of offerings. Overall, Mido’s dedication to both style and functionality has made it a respected and reliable brand in the world of watches.

12. Rado

Rado is a Swiss luxury watchmaker founded in 1917. The brand is known for its innovative use of materials, including ceramic, which has become one of its signature materials. In 1962, Rado introduced the world’s first scratch-resistant watch, the DiaStar, made from hard metal and sapphire crystal.

The brand has since continued to push boundaries in terms of materials and technology, earning a reputation for being one of the most innovative watch brands in the industry. One of Rado’s most iconic collections is the Ceramica, which features watches made entirely from high-tech ceramic.

Another notable collection is the True Thinline, which is ultra-thin and lightweight, thanks to its use of high-tech ceramic. In recent years, Rado has also introduced the Captain Cook collection, which pays tribute to a vintage Rado diving watch from the 1960s. 

This collection has been updated with modern materials and technology while retaining the classic design elements that made the original such a hit. Overall, Rado’s commitment to innovation and high-quality materials has made it a favorite among watch enthusiasts and collectors.

13. Certina

Certina is a Swiss watch brand that has been producing timepieces for over 130 years. Established in 1888, Certina quickly gained a reputation for its high-quality watches with exceptional accuracy and durability. Over the years, Certina has continued to innovate, making a name for itself as a brand that produces robust and reliable watches for sport and adventure enthusiasts.

One of Certina’s most notable achievements is its incorporation of the DS (Double Security) concept into its watches in the 1960s. This innovative design involved the use of various shock-absorbing materials and construction techniques to enhance the durability and water resistance of the watches.

Certina has several iconic collections that have contributed to the brand’s reputation for producing high-quality watches. The DS Action collection is a series of watches designed for diving and other water-based activities. 

In contrast, the DS Podium collection offers timepieces with a sporty and elegant design suitable for everyday wear. The Heritage collection is also a popular series featuring vintage-inspired designs that pay homage to the brand’s history.

14. Union Glashütte

Union Glashütte is a Swiss-German luxury watch brand known for its elegant designs and precise timekeeping. Founded in 1893 in the town of Glashütte, Germany, Union Glashütte has been a part of the Swatch Group since 1983.

The brand prides itself on its technical expertise and attention to detail, as well as its commitment to creating beautiful and functional timepieces. Over the years, Union Glashütte has released several iconic collections, including the Belisar, the Noramis, and the Viro Date.

These collections feature a range of styles, from classic dress watches to sporty chronographs, and are known for their high-quality materials, meticulous craftsmanship, and excellent performance. Union Glashütte is also known for its use of in-house movements, designed and manufactured in the brand’s facilities in Switzerland and Germany.

In recent years, Union Glashütte has continued to innovate and push the boundaries of watchmaking while staying true to its heritage and tradition of excellence. With its combination of style, precision, and technical expertise, Union Glashütte is a brand that appeals to watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.

15. Léon Hatot

Léon Hatot is a Swiss watch brand that was founded in 1924 by Léon Hatot, who was a famous jeweler, watchmaker, and inventor. The brand’s philosophy is to blend technology and design to create watches that embody elegance and precision.

The brand’s early focus was on producing high-quality pocket watches, but it quickly expanded into wristwatches. Over the years, the brand has won numerous awards for its exceptional designs and technological innovations.

Léon Hatot has had several iconic collections throughout the years, including the La Déesse collection, which was inspired by the famous French sculpture “Winged Victory of Samothrace.” Another iconic collection is the Nanette collection, which was designed for women and featured elegant and delicate timepieces. Léon Hatot’s watches are highly sought after by collectors and are known for their exquisite craftsmanship and timeless design.

Parting Thoughts

The Swatch Group encompasses a wide variety of watch brands with distinct styles and histories. From budget brands like Swatch to the luxury timepieces of Breguet and Blancpain and the iconic Omega, there’s a watch for every taste, budget, and need. If one of these Swatch Group brands has tickled your fancy, consider contacting the watch experts at Exquisite Timepieces for help researching and purchasing your next timepiece.