Garit Reid, Author at Exquisite Timepieces
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Author: Garit Reid

rolex datejust 31mm vs 36 mm

When I think of the classic Rolex, many come to mind, like the Submariner, the GMT-Master, or the Explorer, but these are more tool watches. The one watch that fits any style is the Datejust. It is a simple watch with a date function and a timeless design that works in every facet of modern life.

Anywhere from the office to the beach to a formal event, the Datejust can do it all. I’ll be focusing on the 31mm and 36mm variations of the model because I believe 36mm is the do it all size, with 31mm being there for the more feminine design.

And yes, wrist size is a factor for both versions, but there are numerous factors when deciding between the two. Many might say what about the Day-Date? Yes, it’s a great watch, but it suits itself best at the 41mm size, in my opinion, because of its proportions on the dial.

The Day-Date is also more of a blingy watch, no matter the version. The Datejust is a more understated watch overall, in my opinion. For this article, I will focus on the current catalog and not vintage or discontinued models of the 31mm and 36mm variations of the Datejust.

History of the Datejust

Rolex Datejust

In 1945, Rolex was celebrating its 40th anniversary as a watchmaking company, and with that, a new watch was designed and produced to celebrate the occasion. The result of this anniversary was the Rolex Datejust

It wasn’t just the timepiece that made a significant splash, but the bracelet it came on, the now famous jubilee, that many companies have copied or tried to emulate over the years. The Datejust, in its current catalog, offers the watch in both the jubilee and Oyster bracelets.

Many people who buy watches today are aware that a date complication is very common, but what they don’t know is that this function was first introduced with the Datejust. An automatic watch that instantly changes over the date at midnight.

The first reference of the Datejust was the 4467, and it came in 18k gold. There have been many versions since in precious metals, stainless steel, and of course, the famous two-tone or Rolesor (gold and stainless steel). 

The purpose of the Datejust is simple. It’s a versatile watch at 31mm and 36mm sizes for men and women for anything from a walk in the park, to a board meeting, to a night out with friends, dressed up or dressed down.

31mm Versus 36mm

Rolex Datejust 31mm vs 36mm

For all intents and purposes, the similarities between the 31mm and 36mm versions of the Rolex Datejust are very apparent. They have similar case shapes, dial layouts, and bracelets and have the signature date function with the cyclops magnifier.

The differences are subtle in that the 31mm is obviously smaller and looks the part. It’s of a more feminine design and plays that part as it is usually the choice for women. 

That being said, many women look great in the 36mm version of the watch, and I also think there are some men that the 31mm Datejust would look right at home. Yes, of course, wrist size plays a determining role in the correct fit and look of one’s watch.

Another difference of the 31mm is that many of its designs are geared toward the more feminine. Many of the watches are gem set on the bezel and the indices. Not that the 36 mm doesn’t have these things, but the 31mm version does it with more of a jewelry design in mind. Just look at the flower, diamond design of one of the new 2022 31mm Datejust models.

The 36mm sticks to a more classic design, with things like honeycomb dials, solid color design, the classic Wimbledon dial, roman numerals, etc. Yes, both the 31mm and 36mm versions have many of the same dial designs, but the 31mm leans more towards the feminine side of design, whereas the 36mm leans more towards the traditional, as shown in this black dialed, two-tone Everose gold 36mm Datejust.

Other common traits between the Datejust 31mm and 36mm include the smooth and fluted bezel options, baton hands, roman numerals, and gem-set design. Regardless of the size, any Datejust model on the wrist is instantly recognizable as a Rolex.

What’s the Best Rolex Datejust Size for a Man?

This next part might be obvious. What is the correct size of watch for a man when comparing the 31mm and 36mm Datejust? Most people would say that it’s obviously the 36mm version. The 36mm version may be the right choice for many male wrists, but not everyone has the same wrist size. 

I also say whatever feels most comfortable on your wrist and what you think looks and feels best should be the watch that you choose. For example, the Cartier Tank is a much smaller watch and adorns the wrist of many men and women, no matter their wrist size. Sometimes it just comes down to being able to wear timeless designs no matter the size of one’s wrist. Just as an example, Muhammad Ali famously wore a Cartier Tank.

I also think smaller watches are on the comeback. The celebrities back in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s all wore for the most part sub 39mm watches. That’s both men and women. I myself own both large and smaller watches. I have an average-sized male wrist and I find myself going with my 36mm Explorer most of the time.

What’s the Best Rolex Datejust Size for a Woman?

What is the right size of Datejust for a woman, 31mm or 36mm? This comes down to preference and opinion. Yes, wrist size is a factor, but to me, it’s not the main factor when it comes down to it. 

Some women may be attracted to the more feminine design of the 31mm, but I think just as many women would be attracted to the more traditional designs of the 36mm. Choosing a watch always comes down to personal preference. Whether you are a man or a woman, you want what you want.

Some women may want something small on their wrist that is more in line with a piece of jewelry, like a bracelet, but some women may prefer more of a wrist presence, showing they have a timepiece on their wrist.

Another important factor for a woman to consider when choosing a Datejust size is the dial variations. While a dial with diamonds on it might seem out of place on a man’s wrist, a woman can easily wear this type of fancy watch as well as a more traditional monochromatic dial.

Choosing the Right Datejust for You

Throughout the article, I have mentioned many reasons why someone, man or woman, would choose the 31mm or the 36mm version of the Datejust. It just comes down to personal preference and what you want on your wrist. Something small with a feminine design or slightly larger with a more traditional watch design.

For myself, I would choose the 36mm option as I feel it fits my wrist the best, and I like the proportions of the dial layout. That’s my personal preference. I would go for the classic fluted bezel with a solid color on the dial, jubilee bracelet, and in stainless steel. I’m a sucker for simple, classic designs as I own a Rolex Explorer 1 (36mm) in stainless steel. 

Final Thoughts

The right Rolex Datejust is out there for you, and as I didn’t mention vintage, that’s an option as well. Modern and vintage, Rolex makes an excellent watch in 31mm and 36mm Datejust models.

Happy Rolex hunting to all the men and women out there looking for the “Classic Watch of Reference”, the Rolex Datejust. 

grand seiko spring drive watches

What can be said about the Grand Seiko Spring Drive technology that took 20 years to create and refine a revolutionary way to build a mechanical watch? For those not in the know, the unique movement blends quartz technology with the inner workings of a mechanical watch.

There is a wonder in watching the sweep of a mechanical watch, the way it glides around the watch dial. For mechanical and automatic watches, the seconds hand seems like it’s doing a solid sweep, yet in fact, it’s many small ticks going in quick succession. 

With a quartz movement, everyone knows the movement’s tick tick, and many associate that with typical timekeeping. Grand Seiko was able to marry the two technologies to have a seconds hand sweep that is the smoothest in the watch world today.

The Spring Drive Movement Explained

In simplest terms, the Spring Drive movement in Grand Seiko watches is mechanical in design. However, it uses a quartz crystal to maintain accurate time. A unique detail is that there isn’t a battery; everything is powered through the mechanical workings of the watch. 

The Spring Drive movement houses almost all components of a traditional mechanical watch except for the escapement wheel. Instead, it includes a Tri-Synchro Regulator, a complex regulating system that utilizes electric, magnetic, and kinetic energy to synchronize the watch’s operation.

This regulating system produces the necessary electric current that a battery would, which is then fed through the quartz crystal and back to the regulator to monitor the time. Additionally, this system is responsible for the truly mesmerizing sweeping of the seconds hand in the Spring Drive movement.

The History of the Spring Drive Movement

The Spring Drive movement started with one visionary engineer by the name of Yoshikazu Akahane, who worked for Suwa Seikosha, which is now the Seiko Epson Corporation. His idea for a new type of movement was conceived in the 1970s. 

During the early 1970s, he began to work in Suwa Seikosha’s quartz department. After many successful quartz innovations, he began to materialize his idea for the Spring Drive in 1982. After a few failed attempts, the first Spring Drive movement was developed in 1997.

The first Spring Drive movement was in an exhibition at Baselworld in 1999. The first ever watch with a Spring Drive movement was the Seiko SBWA001, and it was fitted with the caliber 7R68. Unfortunately, Akahane couldn’t witness the culmination of his idea, as he passed away in 1998.

Grand Seiko – Mechanical vs. Spring Drive vs. Quartz

From Hi-Beat Diashock movements to Spring Drive and quartz, Grand Seiko does it all and prides itself in its craftsmanship on all levels of its watchmaking prowess. I myself have owned a 9F quartz GMT model from Grand Seiko, the SBGN005, and it is a beautiful no-nonsense watch. 

The quartz technology in it allows for only 10 seconds plus/minus per year. No mechanical watch can compare to that level of timekeeping accuracy. However, there is something to be said about a mechanical watch. 

The beauty is in its engineering and design that it doesn’t require a battery to power the watch, just the energy of it being on your wrist receiving power as you move, allowing the rotor to keep the main spring actively going.

Other than the accuracy of quartz over mechanical and the price of a particular model, I don’t think there is a wrong choice when it comes to the Grand Seiko you prefer. For me, buying a watch is based on its design and how it wears on the wrist. 

If you want a Spring Drive over a regular mechanical watch or a quartz model, they are all good choices. In the end, you buy what you like, and with Grand Seiko, all of their models are fit for someone in the world.

12 Best Grand Seiko Spring Drive Watches

For this list, and in no particular order, I’m going to focus on mainly new watches regardless of their price; I’m just going off of design and what I think looks the best out of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive lineup. I believe the 9R series is the pinnacle of Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches.

1. Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake”

No list would be complete without the quintessential Grand Seiko Spring Drive watch, the SBGA211, also known as the “Snowflake”. Its nickname derives from its captivating hand-made textured white dial that represents a terrain covered by snow. The watch also features attractive dauphine-style hands and an elegant blue seconds hand.

The Snowflake is powered by Grand Seiko’s tried-and-true Spring Drive caliber 9R65. The movement has a power reserve of 72 hours that you can always look at thanks to the indicator on the dial. Plus, the case back on the Snowflake is see-through so that you can admire the beautiful movement inside.

Overall, the SBGA211 is an excellent watch for anyone. It works great in an office environment, and its titanium construction gives it the additional durability to survive your daily life. Whether you’re looking for a multi-purpose timepiece or want to add another beautiful watch to your collection, the Snowflake should definitely be on your radar.

2. Grand Seiko SLGA021

The SLGA021 is an amazing timepiece by Grand Seiko that embodies the tranquility of nature. The watch features a deep blue dial with a distinct wavy pattern that’s inspired by the rippling waters of Lake Suwa in Japan. This truly mesmerizing blue dial sets this watch apart and makes it very elegant. 

The SLGA021 features a stainless steel case built to last, with a screw-down crown that helps achieve the watch’s 100m water resistance. Inside the timepiece beats Seiko’s newest 9RA2 caliber, their most advanced Spring Drive movement yet.

The movement has an exquisite 5-day power reserve and a stated tolerance of ± 10 sec every month. All in all, if you want the best of the best in terms of Spring Drive movements in a magnificent package, the SLGA021 is for you. It’s a great watch for all occasions that also fits several different fashion styles.

3. Grand Seiko SBGY011

If you want a classic design with modern elements (e.g. the movement), look no further than the SBGY011. The design of the SBGY011 is a re-interpretation of an old Grand Seiko watch, the 44GS from 1967.

With its classic white dial, it is just simplicity at its finest. The watch has great legibility for its three-handed design, and the nice added touch of a blued seconds hand is just icing on the cake. Most Grand Seiko designs involve an element of nature, and this model is no different as it invokes the mountains of Shinshu, where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive Watches are produced.

This watch is excellent for those wanting something that disappears on the wrist as it weighs in at just 77 g, one of the reasons being the supple crocodile leather strap it comes with.

Of course, the 9R31 manual wound movement is Grand Seiko’s renowned Spring drive movement, which gives the wearer 72 hours of power reserve and ± 15 seconds per month, which is amazing in terms of watch accuracy. It also has 100 m of water resistance, which most dress watches don’t even come close to.

4. Grand Seiko SLGA015

If you are in the market for a sporty watch with all of the bells and whistles and a Spring Drive movement inside, look no further than the SLGA015. It’s a dive watch that can contend with all of the other dive watches in the market and then some. It comes with 200 m water resistance, magnetic resistance, sapphire crystal, and a titanium case and bracelet.

It’s the ultimate watch for scratch resistance and toughness. This diver also houses the 9RA5 Spring Drive movement, which gives it an accuracy of ± 10 seconds per month with a tremendous 5-day power reserve. The power reserve indicator is also a nice added feature, so you can always know how long your watch will last.

The SLGA015 also includes Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite, for great nighttime and diving legibility. The watch does have a unique 23 mm lug width, so it may be hard to find additional straps for it. Still, I don’t think you’ll be taking off the amazing bracelet on this timepiece.

5. Grand Seiko SBGE285

Every traveler needs a watch, and the tool they should use is a GMT function on their timepiece. It allows the wearer to track different time zones as they go about their journey. They can have that tool watch with a lot of added style if they choose the SBGE285. 

It’s a beautiful, elegant white dial watch that is both a tool watch and a dressier option for those on the go for travel and a pleasant night out with friends. This is another titanium watch that adds to the ruggedness of travel for the wearer. This watch also invokes the snowy mountains of Nagano, which is easily noticed in the beautifully patterned snow-like winterscape dial.

The SBGE285 uses the 9R66 Spring Drive movement with ± 15 seconds per month, 100 m of water resistance, just everything you need when you are a globetrotter. This watch is also a true GMT or a traveler’s GMT, which has an independent jumping hour when adjusting from the crown.

6. Grand Seiko SBGC249

For those looking for a refined chronograph/GMT with a Spring Drive movement, the SBGC249 is an easy choice for first-time buyers and collectors alike. I also chose the blue dial version as it has a striking yet romantic nighttime sky motif on the dial and bezel. The dial features two chronograph subdials, a power reserve indicator, and a dedicated GMT hand.

This makes the SBGC249 the ultimate tool watch. This watch houses the 9R96 Spring Drive movement with plus/minus 10 seconds per month and 100 m of water resistance.  The timepiece delivers functionality and style. For those looking for a GMT or a chronograph, you can check off both boxes with this model. 

7. Grand Seiko SBGA467

This watch is simple and elegant in its design. It is like the little black dress/slim black suit that goes with everything. The inky black dial goes with any formal attire and can accompany you on all your formal events.

Still, the watch’s sportier nature makes it a great accessory for an everyday look with a t-shirt and a pair of jeans. The SBGA467 houses the 9R65 Spring Drive movement with 72 hours of power reserve. Thanks to its low price tag, it’s an excellent affordable option for a timeless piece that can go anywhere with you.

8. Grand Seiko SBGA461

The Grand Seiko SBGA461 is another no-nonsense dive watch, this time in stainless steel. It is an excellent sports watch that can also be used as a professional diver. A little heftier than titanium, the stainless offers extra weight for those who want something ampler on their wrist. 

With 200 m water resistance, this watch houses the 9R65 Spring Drive movement with 72 hours of power reserve and ± 15 seconds per month accuracy. Like any other Seiko dive watch, it has the always trustworthy LumiBrite to take nighttime legibility to the next level.

9. Grand Seiko SBGY002

This watch is a sign of coming up in the world, celebrating something wonderful in one’s life or just something to buy because of its beauty. It is, of course, the prototypical yellow-gold watch. The SBGY002 comes in 18 k yellow gold on a beautiful crocodile leather strap.

It evokes images of the 1950s when men wore hats and suits, but it can be contemporary too in today’s varied fashion trends. It houses the 9R31 Spring Drive movement with 72 hours of power reserve, giving the watch that modern touch with an old-world feel.

10. Grand Seiko SBGC223

This next one is a hulk of a watch at 46 mm, so it’s definitely aimed at people with larger wrists. The SBGC223 doesn’t just involve the superb Spring Drive movement. It also has next-level technology in its combination of high-intensity titanium and ceramic in both the dial, bezel, and bracelet. The watch also combines the functionality of a chronograph and a GMT.

It houses the 9R86 Spring Drive movement with 72 hours of power reserve and plus/minus 15 seconds per month. This watch has a big presence for those who want or need a big watch. It’s also very durable as it will be very tough to scratch with its combination of titanium and ceramic all over the watch.

11. Grand Seiko SBGA413

A watch based on the 62GS from 1967, this beautiful watch with the beautiful scenery of a cherry blossom style on the dial is breathtaking. This is, without question, my favorite watch on the list. It is masculine yet feminine in its design, making you want to wear it. There’s nothing else that needs to be said about this watch. It has the always excellent 9R series of Spring Drive movements. It’s a watch that needs to be seen and experienced on the wrist. 

12. Grand Seiko SBGD202

As part of the masterpiece collection, the SBGD202 is one of the most expensive watches in the Grand Seiko Spring Drive lineup. It has a beautiful design of a night sky in all of its glory and is in 18 k rose gold. 

It also houses the 9R01 Spring Drive moment, giving the watch an astounding 8-day power reserve. This is one of those once-in-a-lifetime watches if you are able to purchase it as well as the platinum version. Grand Seiko continues to provide credibility as one of the premiere watchmakers in the world.

Conclusion

The 9R series of Grand Seiko is a wonder to the watch world. The Spring Drive movement is unparalleled in the sweep of its second hand. Any watch enthusiast or collector can tell you how satisfying the sweep of the seconds hand on a watch is. Throughout this whole article, I didn’t touch on Zaratsu polishing, and the mirror-like finish of Grand Seiko watches.

Most or all of the watches on this list have Zaratsu finishing in some form or another, and let me tell you, it’s amazing. Other watch brands have polished watches, but Grand Seiko is on another level. So, if you are on the lookout for a Grand Seiko, Spring Drive is an excellent option, especially the 9R series.

Best automatic watches under $2000

The words affordable and accessible are words thrown out there in the watch world for enthusiasts and collectors, and it usually consists of watches close to or near the luxury level of horology. For the price point in the range of $2,000, it is not inexpensive, but it’s at a point where you will receive an excellent watch for the value.

This list will be my look at mechanical and automatic watches that really hit the mark on value, design, wearability and overall look and feel. I have experience with some of these watches on a personal level and from my own collection. The other watches on this I would love to try on and maybe one day purchase.

What I look for in a Watch

What I look for in a watch is usually that it doesn’t just fit in one box. It should have elements of a sports watch, dress watch and just have a feel that it could be a piece I could wear everyday.

I’m a design person first, I like a watch that I think looks good and I also respect the movement it holds like an ETA, Sellita, in-house movement for example. I respect the work and care it goes into making a good, solid movement that can last the test of time in between servicing.

Here are the 20 watches in no particular order I would recommend for those looking for a quality timepiece in the range of $2,000:

20 watches around $2,000

1. Sinn 556A

 Sinn 556A

The first watch on my list is the Sinn 556A, which is a watch I recently owned. And it’s a beautiful representation of the simple, yet well designed tool watch. It has notes of a Rolex Explorer with its arabic numerals at 12, three , six and nine. It also has an excellent matte black dial, very clear white indices and small yet, well placed date window at the four o’clock position.

At around $1,500 USD in value it could be the only watch you need. A note that the sapphire crystal has a layer of AI coating on the bottom and top layers of the crystal. It allows for great readability in direct sunlight but be aware that the AI coating can be more easily scratched than the crystal itself

2. Oris Aquis Date

Oris Aquis Date

The Oris Aquis Date is on this list and is another watch I’ve owned in the past and keeping that the list is under $2,000 it cost just slightly more than the aforementioned price level (I’m discussing the 39.5 mm Selitta based option – SW 200-1, on the rubber strap) I think it’s important to be on this list because of the value you get. Oris is unique as it’s an independent Swiss watchmaking company and is a favorite of many enthusiasts for good reason.

It punches way above its weight class. With 300 m water resistance, a screw down crown and it has a unique design, with its pseudo-integrated bracelet. It’s not just another Submariner clone. It has its own original design elements. Most people may be looking for the company’s new caliber 400 for their next Oris, but if you want a little more value for your money and the same great fit, finish and design, the SW 200-1 version is the way to go.

3. Seiko SPB143

Seiko SPB143

Seiko needs no introduction in the affordable watch market, even though this particular Seiko is somewhat more expensive than some models. The Seiko SPB143 has a beautiful dial as it harkens back to 62MAS, Seiko’s first dive watch from 1965. Seiko knows how to make a dive watch, not only is it certified 200m diver with it being in the Prospex lineup of watches it also boasts a more robust in-house movement, the 6R35 movement with tolerances of +25 to -15 seconds per day.

This is a watch I’ve coveted, but haven’t purchased, but it’s one that is definitely on my radar. It has vintage and modern touches, which makes it a candidate for one-watch collection.

4. Longines Heritage Classic

Longines Heritage Classic

Longines has one of the longest histories of any Swiss watchmaker, with the company dating back all the way to 1832. Longines still makes high quality watches today and the Heritage Classic is no different. This is a reissue from their back catalog and it has a beautiful simplistic sector dial design with a subdial with small seconds.

Silver dial with the leather strap would be my choice and at 38.5 mm in size with just 11 mm of thickness it fits in that goldilocks zone of wearability. It sits at just over $2,000, but it deserves that little extra bit of money because of the quality it exudes.

Official site – Longines

5. Nomos Campus Club 38

Nomos Campus Club 38

When it comes to the world of watchmaking Germany is no slouch. The country produces high quality timepieces and one of those is Nomos. The Campus Club 38 at just under $2,000 is almost a steal as it has the beautiful in house movement Alpha.

This is a manual wound watch, not automatic, but that adds to the character of the watch. It also has a California dial (combination of roman numerals and arabic numerals) that adds to the impeccable style of the watch. This watch is a no-brainer for those going off to school or venturing into their new careers.

6. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer

Hamilton, now part of the Swatch Group and located in Switzerland, has its roots in the USA and you can see through the ruggedness of its watches and design elements that it doesn’t shy away from the vintage aesthetic in a lot of its timepieces. The Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer, even though a pilots watch has that railroad/train stopwatch look and feel.

It does show that it’s a true pilot’s watch with the oversized crown and clear Arabic numerals. The see through caseback allows you to see the workhorse ETA 6498-1 caliber inside. The black dial mixed with the fauxtina on the small seconds, minute track and numerals adds to its charm. At just over $1,000 it’s an easy choice for any watch buyer.

7. Junghans Max Bill automatic

Junghans Max Bill automatic

Another German watchmaker on this list and they utilize the Bauhaus house of design. The minimalist dial is why this watch stands out, but it doesn’t take out any of the modern qualities of this watch. On a svelte milanese bracelet it adds a silver touch to the tasteful white design of the dial. If you are a true minimalist, then this watch is for you.

Official site – Junghans

8. Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80

Tissot has a rich heritage and its dive watches hot the mark at the just above $1,000 price point. With all of the design elements of a rugged dive watch, the professional can take you into the water, if you so choose with its 600 m of water resistance. It also houses the well-known Powermatic movement (a modified ETA movement), which gives the wearer an 80-hour power reserve. That is hard to come by at this price point or any other one for that matter.

Official site – Tissot

9. Rado Captain Cook

 Rado Captain Cook

The Rado Captain Cook is another modern dive watch with some vintage appeal. IT rivals dive watches like the Tudor Black Bay and the Oris Divers 65, but it has its own unique look. Almost a bowl shaped bezel with a broad arrow hour hand. The beads of rice bracelet adds to the vintage charm and it’s a watch that is hard to say no to. It has modern touches like a ceramic bezel. At around $2,700 it’s a watch you may take everywhere with you.

Official site – Rado

10. Tissot PRX Chronograph

Tissot PRX Chronograph

The Tissot PRX has been a big hit for Tissot over the last couple of years in both the quartz and automatic versions. There are currently numerous colorways and sizes as well a gold bezel version. Coming in at just below the $2,000 mark at retail the fairly new PRX chronograph is sure to be a great seller for the Swiss watchmaking company.

Watch has a beautiful integrated bracelet based off of an old Seastar design from the 1970s and reminiscent of the classic Gerald Genta like design. On top of all the good things going for this watch it now includes a chronograph complication set on the classic three sub dial design. My vote would be for the almost brushed-like look of the blue dial version.

Official site – Tissot

11. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver

The dive watch history for Zodiac started at a pivotal time in 1953 alongside Blancpain as possibly the first two commercially available dive watches to hit the market. Zodiac’s horological importance in history can’t be denied and over the past few years have been producing some great watches. One of them being the Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver.

It comes in at 42 mm in diameter with a 20 mm lug width and great legibility. IT is also COS-C certified, which you don’t see at the price level of around $1,700. The watch has great lume including the bezel, which most divers don’t have, so this watch is the total package if you are looking for that one and done diver.

12. Longines Dolcevita

Longines Dolcevita

The Longines Dolcevita is a sleek rectangular automatic watch that can be dressed up or dressed down. Like the previous Longines watch mentioned in this list, it has a sector dial design. It’s slim on the wrist at just over 10 mm in thickness and pairs with a suit or t-shirt and jeans. You can’t go wrong with this watch as part of your collection.

13. Doxa Sub600T

Doxa Sub600T

Doxa has a rich history in dive watches going back to the adventures of Jacques Cousteau who popularized the brand. The watch being looked at is the Doxa 600T in Aquamarine. It’s a funky and fun watch that would be a great addition to any collection. The great thing about this particular model is it comes with a ceramic insert bezel. I would also pair this with the aquamarine rubber strap. It’s a great watch for the summer and doesn’t break the bank at just over $1,500.

Official site – Doxa

14. Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date

Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date

Oris is well known for its dive watches with the popular Aquis and Divers 65 line, but they also know how to make a well built and well designed pilot’s watch. The Oris Pro Pilot Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date is no exception. It has great legibility as any pilot’s watch should and the machine knurled-like bezel adds that little extra something to the look of the watch. It also fits nicely into anyone’s budget looking for a sub-$2,000 watch.

Official site – Oris

15. King Seiko SPB283

King Seiko SPB283

King Seiko is back and given the modern update from Seiko. King Seiko has a long history as one of the flagship brands under Seiko, but slowly disappeared in the mid-1970s, but with this reissue the SPB283 with its 6R31 movement inside brings a beloved icon back to the Seiko fold. It’s another watch you can wear at a casual or formal affair.

Official site – Seiko

16. Hamilton Intra-matic Chronograph H

Hamilton Intra-matic Chronograph H

Chronographs are a fan favorite of many watch buyers because of their timeless design and functionality. Hamilton recently released a manual wind version of their Intra-Matic Chronograph series. I especially like the white cream dial panda-style version. This watch has a heritage feel to it that makes you think you are ready to step on a train from the 19th century. Hamilton brings people back to the American past with a warm nostalgic feel of steel and leather. It’s an American Classic.

Official site – Hamilton

17. Sinn 104 St Sa A

Sinn 104 St Sa A

Another German entry and another very popular Sinn model, the 104, specifically the St Sa A with the arabic numerals on the dial. It’s the epitome of a well-made pilot’s watch. This particular pilot’s watch has a unique 60-minute bidirectional bezel. Introduced at BaselWorld in 2015, this watch has a beautiful display caseback with its signature gold rotor and with its 200 m of water resistance, you can take it in the sky and sea.

18. Baltic Tricompax

Baltic Tricompax

I’m adding this watch as microbrands have a spot in the watch world as well. This specific model of Baltic, the Tricompax was just recently announced with pre-orders just occurring. I added this watch because of its iconic design choice. It reminds anyone of a certain Paul Newman like design (from the company with the crown) and that’s a good thing. This will be a watch I have my eye on and possibly it will become part of my collection.

19. Marathon GSAR (automatic)

Marathon GSAR

The Marathon GSAR or the Government Search and Rescue watch is a Swiss made watch based out of Canada. Marathon has made and continues to make watches for the Canadian and American armed forces. Knowing that this dive watch has to take a certain amount of wear and tear and that’s why it makes for a great rugged watch.

Official site – Marathon

20. Ball Engineer II Rainbow

Ball Engineer II Rainbow

A funwatch to add to the list is the Ball Engineer II Rainbow. Rainbow watches have been a unique novelty in the watch world and Ball’s take on it is funky. Not only is it fun, it comes in titanium and is COS-C certified. Funky and functional all at the same time.

The functionality of the watch doesn’t stop there as the colorful indices are lit up by 15 micro gas tubes for extreme legibility at night as well as 5,000 Gs of shock resistance. It also is quite affordable for all that it offers at just over $2,000.

These are 20 great watches for the value they offer and a great way to venture into the world of watch collecting or two have that one piece that does it all for you.

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