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The ULTIMATE Seiko Presage Review (Read BEFORE Buying!)

Posted on September 17, 2024December 8, 2024 by Charlotte H

My first mechanical watch was a Seiko Presage. It was the first timepiece I bought when I got my first paycheque working as a watch writer, and still, to this day, it remains one of my most worn watches.

So, as much as I will aim to write this review with as little bias as possible, this is a watch close to my heart – and for good reason. It’s one of Seiko’s most popular models, known as their flagship dress watch, and offers an almost unbelievable level of design craftsmanship and technology at affordable prices. So, with this in mind, let’s take a look at everything the Seiko Presage has to offer.

About The Seiko Presage

It’s actually hard to believe that the Seiko Presage collection was launched in 2016. It feels like such a staple in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio that it’s difficult to imagine it never existed.

But alas, it’s a collection that hasn’t even celebrated its 10th anniversary yet (I can’t wait for that one, though, as I’m sure Seiko will launch several beautiful limited editions for it). And yet, despite its short history, the Seiko Presage has become one of the brand’s most popular models and continues to be a staple for new and experienced watch collectors.

The Seiko Presage collection is best known for being the brand’s go-to dress watch, combining traditional watchmaking techniques with timeless and elegant designs. These watches always boast mechanical movements beautifully crafted dials, and their prices are very rarely over the $2,000 mark. It’s also a collection home to several distinctive families, each with their own set of unique characteristics to suit different tastes.

The Presage Sharp Edged Series is one of the more contemporary lines, characterized by its bold angular lines and textured dials. In contrast, the Presage 60’s Style series channels retro elegance, bringing some of Seiko’s mid-20th century watches to life by opting for vintage details and perfectly round cases topped by contrasting bezels.

Then there’s the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time family, perhaps their best-known model in the collection. This is a range of watches inspired by Japanese cocktail culture, with every design boasting different dial textures and colors to celebrate a specific cocktail.

History of Seiko Presage Watches

As mentioned, the Seiko Presage collection has a short history since the series only first arrived on the watch scene in 2016. But its major popularity in such a short space of time is a true testament to the classic craftsmanship and design expertise coming from the Japanese watchmaker.

Although the Presage name didn’t appear until the mid-2010s, the line-up is inspired by a watch released in 1913 known as the Seiko Laurel. This legendary watch was Seiko’s first-ever mechanical timepiece, boasting a perfectly round case mimicking the shape of a pocket watch, an oversized crown, and a crisp white enamel dial with beautiful navy and red Arabic numerals. It’s the captivating materials and elegant details of the Laurel that the Seiko Presage collection carries on.

Since its launch, the Presage collection has grown to include several unique sub-families, each with their own personality. One of the first was the Presage Cocktail Time, unveiled in 2017, inspired by the vibrant colors and textures of cocktail culture.

Think lively hues and dazzling dial textures that make you feel like you’re always ready for a night out. In 2018, the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series made its debut, and truthfully, at the time, this felt like a bold move from Seiko, but it was one that paid off. They combined the elegance of the models before it with sharper, more refined cases and textured dials inspired by the hemp-leaf pattern often seen in Japanese culture.

The Seiko Presage 60’s Style series came next, launched in 2019, bringing a nostalgic nod to Seiko’s vintage designs from the 1960s. This series is often treasured by those who love classic and retro aesthetics. All the Seiko Presage sub-families are beautiful in their own way, offering a completely different take on the dress watch genre.

If I had to pick just one, though, it would be the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time. It’s the very model I chose as my first mechanical watch, and as I said, it’s a design that rarely leaves my wrist. Here’s why…

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time: In-Depth Review

Before we jump into the review of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch, it’s worth noting that there’s an almost endless selection of models in this family. There really is something for everyone; there’s a variety of case sizes, case materials, a beautiful spectrum of dial colors and textures, and even a number of different movements and complications to choose from.

So, no matter whether you’re drawn to the simplicity of a time and date display or you prefer something more complex like a semi-skeletonized dial, GMT, or a power reserve indicator, just know that there’s Seiko Presage Cocktail Time likely to tick all your wrist’s boxes. I’ll try my best to highlight all the standout features in this review, but don’t be afraid to explore the full collection yourself to truly appreciate the breadth of choices available.

Case Sizes & Materials

Part of the beauty of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection is the vast number of choices on offer. It doesn’t matter if you have tiny five-inch wrists like me or 7-inch wrists and bigger; there is a case size that will perfectly suit you.

Sizes range from 30mm all the way to 41mm, with case metals varying from classic stainless steel to yellow or rose gold plated. Some models feature a combination of steel and gold for a beautiful dual-toned finish.

Although slightly different in their size and coloring, every case in the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series follows the same set of design principles. These are watches that are simple and timeless; they often have relatively low profiles measuring around 12mm in height, so they can easily be slipped under the cuff of a shirt, and bright polished finishing to complete the dressy look.

A notable feature of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time case is the crown, which sits, in some cases, as large as 6.5mm, which makes manipulating the time, date, and any other piece of functionality a breeze.

Features like this draw inspiration from the original Seiko Laurel, which also had its own prominent crown. The shape of the crown is also similar in that it gets thicker the further away it gets from the case. It’s also slightly knurled and engraved with the “S” logo.

Jumping back to the thickness of these designs, much of that is down to the Hardlex crystal glass that is found on top. It has a prevalent dome that adds to its vintage persona. Sure, Hardlex crystal glass isn’t quite as scratch-resistant as luxury sapphire crystal.

Still, when even the most expensive watch in Seiko’s Cocktail Time collection retails for no more than $800, it’s a worthy and understandable sacrifice. Plus, since these are typically worn as dress watches, you’d hope there’s much less chance of scratching the crystal compared to, say, a tool watch or sports watch.

To cement its status as a dress watch, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time always arrives with a smooth fixed dial machined from its respective case metal. Again, the finishing is typically brightly polished to match the rest of the architecture’s finish. The cases are also always 50 meters water resistant, a typical rating to find on a dress watch.

Dials

While the cases of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches are beautiful and easily wearable, there’s nothing otherworldly about them. But with the dials, that’s a totally different story. I’ve found that most people get into watches due to one of the following: a love of a brand’s history, an interest in mechanical watchmaking, or a love of design – most specifically, dial design. I’ve always been part of the latter category, and it’s probably the main reason why the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection has always been one of my all-time favorites.

These aren’t just your simple colored dials with printed numerals. These are intricate, well-thought-out displays with meaning. As previously mentioned, the series is inspired by Japan’s cocktail culture, with each dial bringing to life the colors and textures of a specific cocktail. There are dials named after the “Martini”, the “Blue Moon”, the “White Lady” and “Cosmopolitan”, each with their own creamy texture and iridescent color.

It’s impossible to pick a favorite, but if you’re someone new to the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection, I’d recommend taking a look at references SRPD37 and SRPB46 to get a good idea of what is on offer. The SRPD37 has a beautiful ribbed finished dial that looks almost like the creases in a fan.

It’s colored in a deep emerald green, which, thanks to the sunray-like effect, changes color dramatically depending on the angle at which you view it. Similarly, reference SRPB46 has its own textured dial, but this time, inspired by the Manhattan cocktail. It boasts a beautiful coffee-brown hue that gets darker at the edges, matching the rose gold dial hardware and case all too well.

No matter which dial you choose, each Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch follows a similar pattern. It presents applied polished hour indices with sharp, almost arrowhead-shaped silhouettes and two dauphine-shaped hands for the hours and minutes. The seconds hand is kept slim and straight and is sometimes colored in a contrasting color compared to the rest of the dial for a nice pop of legibility.

Those with date complications often present the disc in the same hue as the dial for a subtle integration of the handy feature. There’s also an applied Seiko logo at 12 o’clock, printed minute markings around the circumference, and writing for “Presage Automatic” at 6 o’clock.

As previously stated, some of the models come with additional complications for a less traditional look. There are some beautiful Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Semi-Skeleton watches that present a lovely openwork aperture at 9 o’clock, revealing part of the automatic winding movement working hard inside. For frequent travelers, you might enjoy the Cocktail Time GMT series, which adds a colorful dual-time zone hand and a 24-hour scale around the dial.

Movements

As with all their watches, the Japanese watchmaker only uses mechanical, in-house movements in their Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series. There are several different calibers in use, but one of the most commonly spotted is the Caliber 4R35 automatic movement. It’s the same movement popularly used in some of their higher-end Seiko 5 models and some of their Prospex series, promising classic time and date function and a healthy 41-hour power reserve.

It also promises a frequency of 21,600 vph with hackable seconds and hand-winding capability. It’s also tested to relatively good levels of accuracy, promising a deviation of no more or less than -35/+45 seconds per day. In some instances, the movement is put on display through the case back, showing off the simple decoration, including a brushed yellow gold oscillating rotor and bridges.

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches with the semi-skeletonized dials feature an adapted version of the Caliber 4R35 called the 4R38, which promises much of the same specs. Meanwhile, those with added GMT complication utilize the Caliber 4R34, which delivers the same 41-hour power reserve, 3Hz frequency and a total of 24 jewels.

Strap Options

As you’ll quickly find out upon exploring the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection, there are a number of strap options to choose from. Many of the models arrive on soft calfskin leather straps, some left smooth, and others embossed with an alligator-like pattern. They are often dyed in hues of black, brown, or navy.

You can also enjoy several metal strap options, all with a five-row link construction made from stainless steel, gold plating, or a mix of both. The bracelets of the Presage Cocktail Time watches are some of the most comfortable I have ever worn, and that includes some well-known luxury models.

There’s something very satisfying about the flexible five-link construction, and the finishing on the metal is nice, too, boasting a combination of brushed and polished finishing.

The leather straps are completed by classic pin buckles in their respective case metal, while the metal bracelets are equipped with a dual button release folding clasp. The latter does lack any chance of micro-adjustment, but that’s expected on a watch of this price.

Most Popular Seiko Presage Models

As we’ve discussed, the Seiko Presage collection is vast, with numerous families, sizes, dial designs, and complications to choose from. To make your search easier, we’ve handpicked five of our favorite models for you to explore in more detail. These standout pieces showcase the diversity and elegance of the Presage line, offering a blend of style and craftsmanship.

Seiko Presage SRPD37

I briefly mentioned the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPD37 watch in the review for a reason. It’s a beautiful watch with a deep emerald green dial inspired by the Mockingbird cocktail. It’s detailed with the iconic sunray-like texture that allows the color to change in a different light and is set with silvered hardware and a contrasting yellow gold seconds hand. It arrives with a classic stainless steel case with a 40.5mm width and 11.8mm height and a luxurious dark brown smooth calfskin leather strap.

Seiko Presage SRPE43

Although the sunray textured dial is a common sight in the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series, there are a handful of models that deviate from this design. The Seiko Presage SRPE43 is one of them, inspired by the light refraction created by cocktail glasses.

The unique diamond-like finish is colored in a dark blue to mimic the Old Clock Cocktail and set with Arabic numerals – a first for a Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch. This is also one of the more compact-sized references in the collection, measuring 38.5mm wide in stainless steel but still with enough room to house the Caliber 4R35 automatic movement.

Seiko Presage SRPB46

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB46 offers another unique take on the textured dial. This time, it elects a deep brown gradient effect that starts off almost black at the edges before turning gold at the very center.

It’s a color that works perfectly with the 40.5mm wide rose gold plated case and rose gold dial hardware. It presents the same domed Hardlex crystal glass, a 50-meter water-resistant rating, and the 41-hour power reserve typical of the Caliber 4R35.

Seiko Presage SRPB43

One of my all-time favorite Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches, reference SRPB43, is named after the “Skydiving” cocktail, mimicking the colors of the drink with a pale, pastel blue textured dial. The shade of blue looks exquisite beside the 40.5mm wide stainless steel case topped by Hardlex crystal.

To match, the hour and minute hands are silvered while the seconds is a darker shade of blue for easy legibility. This model is presented on a smooth black calfskin leather strap with gorgeous blue stitching.

Seiko Presage SRPB41

For those with a preference for metal bracelet dress watches, we recommend the Presage Cocktail Time ‘Blue Moon’ watch under reference SRPB41. This one pairs its deep navy dial with a dressy five-row link bracelet with a combination of brushed and polished finishes.

The bracelet matches the 40.5mm wide and 11.8mm tall case, promising a 50-meter water resistant rating and showcasing the Caliber 4R35 movement through the exhibition case.

Should You Buy A Seiko Presage?

Now I did say in the introduction that I’d try to be as unbiased as possible when it came to reviewing the Seiko Presage. And I hope so far, I have been. But when it comes to answering this question, I’m going to be totally prejudiced and give you my opinion as a proud owner of a Seiko Presage watch.

The answer is yes, you should absolutely buy one. These are stunning watches with dials that are worthy of a price tag higher than what Seiko advertises them for. I recommend the Seiko Presage to almost everyone I meet, especially those new to collecting and working with a limited budget. They rarely retail for more than $600 and yet still deliver a classy, elegant aesthetic and a reliable mechanical movement. That’s not something easy to find in today’s market, trust me.

Seiko Presage Pricing & Availability

Since the collection is so vast, the price of the Seiko Presage varies depending on which model you are looking at. The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time is one of the more affordable collections, retailing for as little as $420. Those in the Sharp Edged Series are a little higher in price due to the use of sapphire crystal and premium mechanical movements, starting from $950.

Finally, you can shop the Presage 60’s Style collection brand new for $520. Of course, many models can be found even cheaper on the second-hand market, so don’t be afraid to look there if you’re not fussed about a brand-new timepiece.

But shopping from an authorized dealer, like Exquisite Timepieces, ensures a full warranty and a premium buying experience. And you can view a wide variety of Seiko Presage watches in our boutique in Naples, Florida, or shop online at your leisure.

Conclusion

I have nothing bad to say about the Seiko Presage. I truly believe it to be the perfect entry-level collection for those looking for a beautiful and reliable dress watch. Despite their price, they don’t fall victim to any shortcomings.

Sure, they swap out the sapphire crystal for more affordable Hardlex, but other than that, there’s very little to excuse such an accessible price. The cases are beautiful, the movements are reliable and in-house, and most importantly, the dials are spectacular and some of the finest at this price point.

Omega Speedmaster Review: A Detailed Look of the “Moonwatch”

Posted on September 16, 2024December 8, 2024 by Charlotte H

In the vast and often complex world of horology, there are only a few watches I’d seriously consider “holy grail” pieces. These are those rare gems that have not only left an indelible mark on history but continue to inspire watchmakers around the globe to create their own adaptations. They’re not just watches that tell the time but watches that are legendary for their interpretation of time. One such icon is the Omega Speedmaster.

This legendary black-dialed chronograph with its thin tachymeter bezel and five-row link bracelet has cemented itself a place in the pantheon of watchmaking greatness. The story of its birth is worthy of history books, and it has become a symbol of ingenuity, adventure, and timeless style. But, even today, years after its creation, this is a watch that remains high up on watch collector’s bucket lists.

About The Omega Speedmaster

I’m not really much of a chronograph wearer – mainly because they’re usually too big for my small wrists. And yet, if someone offered me an Omega Speedmaster watch, I’d take it in a heartbeat.

The model, first released in 1957, has quite easily become one of the main cornerstones in the world of chronographs and tool watches. Funnily enough, it was originally designed as a sports and racing chronograph, and its clean, functional design set it apart from other watches of that era. However, its history extended far beyond the race track, eventually becoming the first watch on the moon – but more on that shortly.

The Omega Speedmaster’s most defining features include its striking black dial, which provides excellent contrast and readability of its chronograph function, and the thin black tachymeter bezel that allows you to measure speed based on elapsed time.

There’s also often a five-link bracelet, adding both comfort and a handsome vintage appearance to the overall aesthetic, and a beautifully curved stainless steel case measuring 42mm wide.

History of Omega Speedmaster Watches

As mentioned, the story of the Omega Speedmaster began in 1957, starting with the introduction of the Speedmaster Ref. CK2915. It was originally designed as a sports and racing chronograph aiming to meet the needs of professional drivers – and, of course, watch enthusiasts who simply appreciate the adrenaline that goes with the racetrack.

Ironically, despite being a perfectly capable racing chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster didn’t find much success in its early years. In fact, it took half a decade and a rather significant journey into space to make that happen.

In 1962, NASA launched the Apollo program, a set of missions that planned to land humans on the moon for the first time and bring them back to Earth safely. A year later, NASA began their search for a watch that was reliable, durable, and legible enough to suit their astronauts in space. It would serve as the official watch of the Apollo program. In the end, four brands took their shot – Omega, Longines-Wittnauer, Rolex, and Hamilton.

As you’ve probably guessed, the only watch to pass the rigorous testing for use in space missions was the Omega Speedmaster, and its selection led it to become the official watch of the Apollo missions. The watch became no stranger to zero gravity and was most famously used by all three astronauts during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. This included Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, who made history as the first humans to walk on the moon. And, of course, that made the Omega Speedmaster the first watch on the moon.

This historic event cemented the Omega Speedmaster as a legend and earned it its well-known nickname the “Moonwatch”. The exact reference to make it onto the moon’s surface was reference 105.012, boasting the very same 42mm wide steel case, black chronograph dial with luminous inserts, and thin tachymeter bezel familiar to all modern-day references. It also featured a manual-winding movement and vintage Hesalite crystal.

It’s no surprise that as the years went on, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch collection expanded to include new variations and technological improvements. One of the biggest upgrades was the introduction of the “Professional” designation, which further solidified its connection to space missions and professional use.

In the 1990s and early 2000s, Omega continued innovating while carefully respecting the Speedmaster’s heritage. Maintaining all the core characteristics of the original designs, such as the Speedmaster Professional “Moonphase” and the Speedmaster Reduced, brought new functionality and design variations to the collection. The brand also introduced the “Co-Axial” movement for enhanced precision and durability.

Sure, the original reference 105.012 will always be the “true” Moonwatch, but the models that have come after it are just as important. They are all deeply rooted in the original’s history, boasting all the essential features that make an Omega Speedmaster an Omega Speedmaster. They have just embraced modern advancements to ensure the design remains a relevant and sought-after timepiece.

Omega Speedmaster: In-Depth Review

As we’ve mentioned, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has been engineered in a number of different styles, but more often than not, they have a set few characteristics in common. Here are some of the essential features you can expect to find in an Omega Speedmaster.

A 42mm Steel Case

Other than a handful of the first Omega Speedmaster watches released (including the first reference CK2915 made for the racetrack), every true Moonwatch since has had a case size of 42mm. The inaugural models came in a little smaller – something typical of the time – measuring to 38.6mm and later 39.7mm. But in 1969, with the creation of the Omega Speedmaster that would make it onto the moon’s surface, the lyre lugs and crown guards increased the diameter of the watch to 42mm. And it’s been that way ever since.

Similarly, the rest of the dimensions have barely changed. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional typically boasts a thickness of around 13mm, a lug-to-lug of 47mm, and a lug width of 20mm. It’s a really nice set of dimensions, allowing the watch to suit wrists anywhere from 6 inches and above. There are other Speedmasters that are smaller, but it’s worth noting these aren’t classed as “Moonwatches”.

The overall case shape is another permanent fixture, with the turned lug design borrowed from the classic Speedmaster’s silhouette. In the same way, the crown and chronograph pushers are placed in a traditional position, all recessed into the case just slightly for added durability. The crown is non-screwed down but does still warrant a 50-meter water-resistant rating.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is most commonly found with a classic stainless steel case. The finishing is beautiful; it has brushed sides and high polish on the case and lug tops. There are also a handful of Moonwatch references in the Swiss watchmaker’s current collection made using their Sedna™, Canopus, or Moonshine Gold, a proprietary alloy developed by Omega.

The material offers a rich, long-lasting gold color and looks particularly stunning with the Speedmaster’s classic black dial. In some cases, gold is used for the entire case and bracelet, and in other instances, Omega has combined Sedna or Moonshine Gold with stainless steel for a cool two-toned finish. Although these models are beautiful for me, the classic stainless steel Speedmaster will always be my favorite.

A Black Tachymeter Bezel

Possibly one of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional’s most defining characteristics is its tachymeter bezel. Most other space-inspired watches, or even tool watches for that matter, don’t have a tachymeter bezel because it’s used for measuring speed, typically related to the speed of a car on the racetrack. But since the Speedmaster was originally created for motorsport enthusiasts, the tachymeter continues to be a nod to its racing roots and a nice reminder that while the Speedmaster may have reached the moon, it was born on the racetrack.

The Speedmaster’s bezel is set on the outskirts of the case, kept nice and thin with a black aluminum insert. It has a wonderful glossy finish and is printed with the tachymeter scale in white. Some Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches feature a dot over the numeral for 90. Often referred to as “DO90”, this feature is a hallmark of early Speedmaster models and is highly prized by collectors for its historical accuracy and connection to the original design.

A Monochromatic Dial

Of course, the most famous dial color for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is the classic black display. Just like the reference to walk the Moon, most modern-day iterations of the design have a black matte finish with white printed markers and a slightly stepped architecture, which you’ll notice when you look at the minute track more closely. The three register displays for the chronograph and small seconds are also sunken for a nice touch of legibility.

The dial hardware isn’t oversized in any way but still offers a good amount of legibility. This is largely due to the contrasting white printing used on many markers and the luminescent material placed on the hands. The iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional logo is always positioned at 12 o’clock.

There are some other dial colors available in the Speedmaster collection, including green, white, silver, and gold. The white-dialed reference 310.30.42.50.04.001 is a personal favorite and a nice twist on the classic black display, switching around the colors for the surface and markers for a bright, legible finish.

Hesalite or Sapphire Crystal?

Understandably, while some of the original Omega Speedmaster watches featured domed Hesalite crystal glass, most of the modern re-interpretations have boasted contemporary scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. But there have been a handful of modern references that have brought back the Hesalite crystal for good reason. One of said references is 310.30.42.50.01.001.

Despite Hesalite being more prone to scratches, it does give the Omega Speedmaster a distinctly vintage finish featuring a higher dome and a very cool engraving of the Omega logo at the center of the crystal – a very small detail that’s fun to spot if you can! Meanwhile, sapphire crystal, although still slightly domed, does have a lower profile on the wrist, plus enhanced scratch resistance.

Ultimately, the choice between Hesalite and sapphire crystals will depend on your personal preferences. Those traditionalists who want an Omega Speedmaster as close to the original Moonwatch as possible will prefer those with Hesalite. On the flip side, those of you who prioritize durability will prefer scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

It’s worth noting there is a small price difference between the two, with the Hesalite models retailing from $6,600 on the solid bracelet and the sapphire models priced at $7,600. The Hesalite references also have closed case backs engraved with the traditional Moonwatch message, while the sapphire crystal iterations keep things modern with a matching sapphire crystal exhibition back that lets you admire the movement inside.

Manual Winding Movements

Another notable change to the Omega Speedmaster over the years is the movement found within. Of course, as the years have gone by, Omega has drastically advanced its technologies for the better, but what’s really impressive is that although the technology has improved, the overall visuals and functionality have remained much the same.

Like the original, the majority of Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches you’ll see are powered by manual-winding movements. These are the mechanical movements that require physical rewinding via the crown every few days.

One of the most used manual calibers in today’s current collection is the Omega 3861. This is a movement with a 50-hour power reserve, an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring, a free-sprung balance, chronograph complication, and chronometer certification.

It’s also one of just a few manual winding movements from Omega that uses a co-axial escapement. This is an escapement system that utilizes three pallets rather than the traditional two, which ultimately reduces sliding friction and increases service interval time. The Omega 3861 is also certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS, which includes more tests and higher standards for accuracy than chronometer certification alone.

Those who opt for an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with an exhibition case back will also be able to admire the architecture of the manual movement inside, which is laid out a lot like the original. It has rhodium plating and Geneva stripes across the bridges. Plus, you can spot some of the 26 jewels.

Leather, Rubber or Metal Strap Options

There are a handful of straps available to order with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. A popular choice is the black rubber strap, which on the surface appears just like any standard black rubber strap with a stainless steel folding buckle, but when off the wrist, you’ll notice the underside is uniquely textured. The reverse surface has a stunning texture reminiscent of the surface of the moon. It’s a really nice touch and a nod to the Speedmaster’s iconic history.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch can also be ordered on a variety of comfortable NATO straps in several colors. Straps like this really help to elevate its vintage aesthetic. For a dressier look, you might prefer one of the leather straps, whether that be one of the smooth calfskin leather bands, shiny alligator leather, or perforated leather straps.

My personal favorite strap for the Omega Speedmaster is, without surprise, the metal bracelet. The five-row, pebble-like shape of the bracelet links is really beautiful, and the finishing varies depending on whether you opt for a Hesalite or sapphire crystal model. Those with Hesalite crystal are fully brushed, while the sapphire crystal references lean into its modern positioning by including polishing on the two smallest inner links.

Most Popular Omega Speedmaster Models

Now that you know all about the Omega Speedmaster, its history, and some of the defining characteristics that make a Speedmaster a true Speedmaster Moonwatch, you’re probably wondering which, out of the several models on the market, are the most popular. Without further ado, here’s the long-awaited answer…

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)

Of all the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches on this list, this is the one I’d choose for myself. Why? Because this is the closest to the original as it gets. You’re getting the same black tachymeter bezel, 42mm wide steel case, a matte black dial with white printing and lume, and a manual winding movement. It also arrives on the five-row link bracelet and has the sapphire crystal glass on both the front and back. It’s a beautiful watch through and through, and anyone looking to start a watch collection off with a bang can’t go wrong with this, trust me! Price: $8,000

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Moonshine Gold Green Dial on Bracelet (ref. 310.60.42.50.10.001)

If you love the history behind the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch but you also want something a little dressier – or even a touch flashy -, we recommend the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Moonshine Gold Green Dial. This stunning watch arrives fully engineered from the brand’s 18ct Moonshine gold – which includes the case back, crown, pushers, and bracelet. In contrast, the dial is colored in a deep emerald green to match the green ceramic bezel ring with an Omega Ceragold™ tachymeter scale. Price: $42,600

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial (ref. 310.30.42.50.04.001)

I already mentioned previously that the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial was another of my favorites. I love how a simple swap of the black and white colors on the dial has transformed a classic looking chronograph into an obvious motorsport-inspired piece. It’s incredibly legible thanks to the jet black hands and numerals and maintains its 42mm wide diameter, steel case, black tachymeter bezel and the 3861 manual winding movement. Price: $8,100.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Black Dial on Bracelet (ref. 310.60.42.50.01.001)

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional under reference 310.60.42.50.01.001 is another luxury option for those wanting something with a bit of oomph. This time around, it pairs its matte black dial with beautiful rose gold hardware and a matching Sedna™ Gold case and bracelet. I’ve always thought rose gold and black look great together on watches, and this is a perfect example. It’s dressy and sophisticated, yet it still manages to uphold the sporty personality of the Speedmaster name. Price: $42,600.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph Canopus Gold (ref. 310.60.42.50.02.001)

Last but certainly not least, we have an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional engineered from the Swiss watchmaker’s patented Canopus Gold™ material. This is one of those metals you have to see in person to appreciate. As well as being 100% noble, it boasts a beautiful brilliance and whiteness that makes it stand out against traditional white gold and stainless steel watches. The inclusion of the stepped silver dial gives it an almost completely monochromatic look, with just the black tachymeter scale standing out in a different hue. It’s another beautiful watch worthy of any watch collector’s wish list. Price: $55,500.

Should You Buy An Omega Speedmaster?

I’m not sure there’s an easier question to answer. Yes, you should absolutely buy an Omega Speedmaster – especially those in the dedicated Moonwatch collection. If you’re a watch enthusiast who appreciates brilliant history and exquisite craftsmanship, there are very few watches that will beat this. For many, it’s a “holy grail” watch, completing collections new and old. From its legendary journey to the moon to its mass of impressive technology inside, the Speedmaster will appeal to anyone with a passion for horology.

Omega Speedmaster Pricing & Availability

With there being so many Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches out here, the prices can vary depending on exactly which model you have in mind. The stainless steel references typically retail from around $6,600 while some of the full 18ct gold references with diamonds can sit with a price tag as large as $60,200. If budget is your issue, it’s definitely worth checking out authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces for the latest offers or heading to the second-hand market where you can find steel Speedys for around $4,000.

Conclusion

We hope this deep dive into the Omega Speedmaster has explained exactly why this watch is a true legend in the world of horology. Sure, the Rolex Submariner and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are nice, but none of those can claim to be the first watch to set foot on the moon. And despite it being several decades old, it’s clear the Omega Speedmaster continues to captivate, both with its exciting history and its incredible design. This is a daily-beater watch with a story and plenty of high-tech to boot. What more could you want?

Grand Seiko SLGH005 Review – Hands-on with the “White Birch”

Posted on August 30, 2024December 8, 2024 by Charlotte H

Whether it be the texture of snow, the ripples on a lake, or the color of the sky at a particular time of the day, Grand Seiko has pretty much interpreted every aspect of nature seen outside their factory windows onto a watch dial.

The Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is nestled in a quiet forest in Japan’s Iwate Prefecture. It’s here that the original Grand Seiko watch was created and that their new watches and 9S mechanical movements are made.

It seems that outside these windows, Grand Seiko is treated to an abundance of breathtaking scenery from which they can draw inspiration when designing their watches. Whether it be cherry blossoms in bloom in Japan’s early springtime, a garden path through a bamboo forest, or the sight of rain falling on Mt. Iwate, Japan’s nature has well and truly been honored by a Grand Seiko dial more times than we can count.

And yet, just when you think their inspiration must be running thin, they launch one of the most brilliant-looking watch dials I have ever seen. The Grand Seiko SLGH005, nicknamed the “White Birch” for obvious reasons, is inspired by Shirakaba, the Japanese term for white birch trees. “Shira” signifies “white,” and “kaba” combines the kanji for “wood” and “beauty”.

In images I had seen online, the dial finish looked immaculate, but I had not seen the watch in person… until now. So now that I have it on my wrist, the question is: does the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 live up to my expectations?

The History of the Grand Seiko SLGH005

Before we get into the nitty-gritty details of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005, I want to first mention the impact this watch had on its release. When it launched in early 2020, it felt like the start of a new chapter for Grand Seiko. It wasn’t wholly new in any sense, really; we’d seen the sleek and dynamic Evolution 9 case and bracelet already, and we’d enjoyed several models equipped with their in-house Caliber 9SA5 movement.

However, what set the SLGH005 apart from its predecessors was that it marked their first regular production model. It wasn’t exclusive to any part of the world nor limited to a specific number of designs to celebrate the company’s 60th anniversary.

This might not seem all that extraordinary, but when a brand debuts a new case architecture and a new movement to go with it, there’s always some uncertainty about how well it will fare, both in popularity and reliability.

So, the launch of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 as a permanent addition to the brand’s portfolio was proof these aesthetics and technologies were here to stay.

The Evolution 9 Case

For me, dimensions can make or break a watch. I have fairly slender wrists, at around five-and-a-half inches wide, so when I saw that the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 had some healthy proportions, I knew we were off to a good start.

The case measures 40mm in diameter, 11.7mm in height, and a 47mm lug-to-lug. And for those interested, I measured the end link-to-end link diameter as 50.3mm. These are classic dimensions for a daily beater watch and would happily suit wrists similar to mine or bigger.

It wears a little lower on the wrist than its height suggests, too. That’s helped by the double-stepped case, the low flanks of the bezel, and the beautiful downward-turned lugs. The case is entirely machined from stainless steel and follows the architecture of previous Evolution 9 models. The Evolution 9 series is designed to be a more modern watch compared to some of GS’s more traditional collections like the Heritage and Elegance.

It cleverly blends a range of aesthetics sourced from Grand Seiko’s design history to create a watch that’s not quite a sports watch nor a dress watch but one somewhere in between.

This makes the SLGH005 extremely versatile, working just as well with denim as a black tie. Part of the reason it feels like a sports watch is the screw-down crown, which offers 100-meter water resistance, a specification far higher than the typical dress watch standard.

The contrasting finishes used on the case are also to blame. There’s satin brushing on the case sides and bezel top, which juxtaposes nicely with the bright polishing used on the bezel sides and lug edges. The latter is achieved using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu polishing technique, which is done entirely by hand and is a rather lengthy process. The result, though, is stunning with a mirror-like finish.

On top, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 delivers high-quality sapphire crystal glass that is both cambered and box-shaped. The box section is seen outward while the cambered shape is central, creating a seemingly flat but beautifully undistorted view of the dial. Sapphire crystal is also featured on the case back, so you can admire the in-house movement inside when the watch is off your wrist.

The White Birch Dial

Due to its name, I expected the dial of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 would be white. But it’s not. In fact, the textured display is entirely silver with a metallic finish inspired by the look of the white birch trees spotted outside the Shizukuishi studio.

I was pleasantly surprised upon unboxing the SLGH005. Part of me had wondered if a white dial would make the design look all too similar to the GS Snowflake. Instead, the silver dial really makes this watch a novelty in its own right.

The dial texture well and truly looks like the grain of a white birch branch or trunk. I don’t know how Grand Seiko does it, but they are experts in mimicking the colors and textures of nature onto dials.

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 is one of the same. It has very deep grooves that give the dial an almost rustic-like appearance and provide plenty of visual interest. It’s one of those displays you can get lost in all too easily.

According to Grand Seiko, creating the SLGH005’s dial is no easy feat. It requires up to 20 steps to fabricate, many of which involve clear coating the surface. This is done up to 14 or 15 times before the finishing touches are done to create the final silver color and texture. It’s only after that that the Japanese watchmaker can begin adding the GS logo, silver-bordered date window, and hands and minute markers.

For the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 watch, the indexes are hand-applied and faceted with the 12 o’clock marker featuring the Evolution 9’s double-faceted profile. The hour hand is uniquely shaped, with a flat end, while the minutes and seconds are kept nice and sharp.

The latter is steel and fired blue for a brilliant contrast against the rest of the monochromatic display. There’s no lume in sight, but the bright polishing of all the hardware provides plenty of legibility, at least in the daytime.

Movement

With so much going on with the case and dial, it’s easy to forget that the movement within the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 watch is just as much, if not more impressive.

The movement in question is Caliber 9SA5, an in-house manufacture movement that brings together some of Grand Seiko’s greatest proprietary technologies into one place. The result is a movement with a weekend-proof 80-hour power reserve and a high beat frequency of 36,600 vibrations per hour.

One of the biggest draws of the Caliber 9SA5 is the escapement design. It has a dual-impulse, increasing energy efficiency and allowing for such a high frequency and long power reserve.

I won’t go into too much detail about how this works because I’m no engineer, but I do know it’s technology garnered plenty of applause and is considered a real example of haute horlogerie. It’s also 15% slimmer than previous 9S calibers, measuring to just 5.18mm tall. This is achieved by placing the barrel and gear trains in a special horizontal layout.

In addition to being technically impressive, the Caliber 9SA5 is a beautiful movement. Through the sapphire crystal case back, you can view the breathtaking bridges designed to mimic the flowing lines of Mt. Iwate and the Shizukuishi River. The surfaces are treated with striping, polished bevels, and perlage, and the oscillating rotor has a more openwork design compared to previous 9S Calibres, giving us a better view of the components below that are hard at work.

Straps

Like all the watches in the Evolution 9 Series, the Grand Seiko “White Birch” SLGH005 is finished by a modern and broad metal bracelet. It matches the case in its stainless steel construction and has a wonderful array of finishes including polished links on the outer face and a satin-brushed top.

I particularly like the staggered link alignment, as this adds to the watch’s sporty persona, plus the bracelet has an integrated end link to remove any awkward gaps between the case and strap.

The buckle is just as beautifully finished with both satin and polished finishing and the GS logo in relief. It’s a single-fold deployment clasp with a twin trigger release, so it’s not easy to accidentally pop open.

The strap is 22mm wide, so swapping it out for another is made easy, plus its length can be adjusted by screws. My only real complaint, as is normally the case with Grand Seiko bracelets, is that there’s no fine adjustment clasp. But there are varying ranges of link sizes that can be taken out, so finding a good fit won’t be too difficult.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 is a unique offering from the Japanese watchmaker for many reasons, one being its wearability. On paper, the dimensions are extremely wearable and don’t get me wrong, this is a comfortable watch, but it is a little larger than some of their other models.

Much of that is down to the lug-to-lug distance of 50.3mm when you include the male end links. It still wears nicely on my five-and-a-half-inch wrist, but it felt more like a statement timepiece than a real daily beater. I’d recommend that if you want this watch to be your everyday go-to, you’ll need to be an individual with 6.75-inch wrists or more.

That said, it has a nice low profile, making it feel a touch more compact. It’s the perfect height for a dress watch, as it’ll slip under the cuff of a shirt without issue. But I have to say, with a dial like this, I wouldn’t want to hide the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 under a sleeve. I’ll say it again, but this dial is beautiful. I want to stare at it and have others stare at it, too.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 retails brand new for $9,100 or can be found on the second-hand market for between $5,000 and $7,000. It’s a non-limited edition, so it is currently part of the brand’s permanent collection. If you’re interested in this model, we recommend purchasing a watch of this caliber through an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

There’s no putting this any plainer: the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 is a beautiful watch and represents the very best of what this Japanese watchmaker can do. The case’s design language, the exquisite finishing of the dial and the technology incorporated within the high-beat movement is just exceptional and there are very few watches made to this standard available under $10,000.

My favorite feature of the model will come to no one’s surprise. It’s the dial. The intense metallic silver color with its shimmering tree bark effect is breathtaking, and it creates an almost mesmerizing coherent finish with the metal case and bracelet. This really is a watch you deserve to see in person. Sadly, I’m not sure even my writing skills can translate this watch’s immaculate beauty.

Grand Seiko SBGK002 Review – An Eye-Catching Urushi Dial

Posted on August 28, 2024December 8, 2024 by Charlotte H

There’s a long list of Grand Seiko watches I’ve always wanted to get hands-on with. I’ve been fortunate to tick some of them off my bucket list already, but one that has been sitting close to the top spot for quite some time is the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002.

Why? Because this is one of those watches that looks absolutely breathtaking in pictures. The warm 18-carat rose gold case, and the rich burgundy dial are enough to make your wrists sweat. And then you have the texture of the dial; it’s a display that looks as if it’s almost made of hair with Urushi lacquer creating a fine and unique texture. But is the Grand Seiko SBGK002 as impressive in person? I’m excited to say I finally found out.

A Pre-Baselworld 2019 Launch

There’s never been a shortage of dressy and elegant Grand Seiko watches. Ultimately, the company’s founder Kintaro Hattori set out to create a “perfect” watch, one that was durable, legible, precise and most importantly, beautiful. He certainly succeeded as proved by Grand Seiko’s unquestionable execution in both their mechanics and aesthetics.

Just before Baselworld (RIP) opened its doors in 2019, the Japanese watchmaker launched a collection of four watches that embraced the qualities of a dress watch even further. We’re talking about high-end case materials, thin dimensions, Urushi lacquer dials (a first for GS at this time), and a new movement. The series was known as the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection and featured four references noted as SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005, and SBGK006.

The first, and my personal favorite at the time, reference SBGK002, is the very model we’re reviewing today. It features a solid rose gold case and a deep red dial. In contrast, SBGK004 pairs its rose gold case with a black dial, SBGK005 opts for a blue dial and steel housing, and SBGK006 (the only non-limited edition in the line-up) sports a white dial and a yellow gold case.

All four felt very different from the Grand Seiko watches we’d seen before. Sure, Grand Seiko already had plenty of dress models in their portfolio, but these stood out. It wasn’t just because they used Urushi lacquer for the first time.

They chose a more refined case with fewer sharp and angular elements, plus a set of dimensions that made them perfectly suited to almost any wrist size. Everything just sounds too good to be true. So, does the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 live up to its reputation?

A Vintage Rose Gold Case

First impressions: The case of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK002 watch might be one of the most impressive cases I’ve seen on a GS watch yet. It’s immediately elegant, but the more you stare at it, the more you realize just how complex its construction is.

It has a generously sloped architecture that seems to be made from one single block of 18-carat rose gold. It’s beautifully soft, with round corners and edges and little to no shared elements. For example, while most Grand Seiko cases have a facet on the internal side of the lugs, this model has no boundary separating the case band and lugs. The lugs’ width is also only 19mm, which adds to the design’s 19th-century-inspired aesthetic.

The dimensions of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 add to its dressy personality further. It arrives with a diameter of 39mm and a height of just 12mm. Lug to lug is also just 44mm making this one of the most wearable Grand Seiko watches on the market. As someone with a generally small wrist size compared to the average at five-and-a-half inches, this sits comfortably without fault.

The top surfaces of the case are finished with the Japanese watchmaker’s famous Zaratsu tin plate polish for a brilliantly dressy, almost mirror-like shine. In contrast, the case sides, which are remarkably slim in their profile, are detailed with satin finishing that runs vertically. The cambered underside has the same Zaratsu polished finish as the top. The crown, also in 18ct rose gold, is gently knurled and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. It has a slight counter-sink into the case’s profile.

The case is topped by domed sapphire crystal glass which again elevates its vintage feel and presents an unadorned 18ct rose gold bezel with a slight conical profile. Again, the bezel has a high polish finish. Turning the Grand Seiko SBGK002 over reveals a glimpse into the 9S63 movement within, one protected by a simple 30-meter water-resistant rating.

A Complex Urushi Lacquer Dial

It’s not often you’ll find a Grand Seiko dial that is anything but mesmerizing. Let’s be honest, this Japanese watchmaker has well and truly mastered the art of dial design. It’s surprising though, that it took until 2019 for the company to use Urushi lacquer on one of their watches.

The rare technique involves the sap from Urushi, a tree grown around the town of Joboji that lies under Mt. Iwate, the very mountain seen out the windows of Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio. The sap is then turned into a lacquer that hardens, becoming extremely durable with a breathtaking, glossy finish.

In the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch, the lacquer is dyed in a rich burgundy hue and applied carefully to create this intricate, fur-like finish. Grand Seiko calls it their “Mt. Iwate pattern” since it is inspired by the ridgelines of the magnificent mountain. It’s the kind of dial you can stare at forever, getting lost in its complexity. The rich shade of red is also the perfect companion for the rose gold case, with the warmth of both creating a truly luxurious-looking watch.

At first glance, the hardware on the Grand Seiko SBGK002 watch’s dial may appear simple, but it’s anything but. The off-gray hour markers and “GS” letters of the Grand Seiko logo are decorated with a traditional Japanese technique called Maki-e. Done by hand by master Isshu Tamura in his studio in Kanazawa on the west coast of Japan’s main island, it’s a process that combines platinum powder with lacquer, taking great dexterity and patience. Every marker has the same depth and shape, created by applying layer after layer of the lacquer. It gives the numeral and markers a three-dimensional profile for a nice level of legibility.

In contrast, the hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, and power reserve indicator are crafted from rose gold and hand-finished using diamond-tipped tools. The hour and minute hands are faceted with satin brushing on the top and polished on the bezels.

I have to applaud Grand Seiko for the perfect symmetry achieved in the placement of the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. It’s not easy to add a power reserve indicator to a dial without the aesthetic feeling cluttered, but it’s been done here perfectly, giving us extra functionality without losing out on any level of elegance.

A Rare Manual-Winding Movement

It would have been all too easy for Grand Seiko to place one of their well-known and highly regarded automatic movements into the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002, but they didn’t, and thank goodness they didn’t. Why? Because this is a vintage-inspired watch that deserves the traditionalism of a manual winding movement.

When the Excellence collection was released, the Caliber 9S63 marked Grand Seiko’s first manual winding movement in six years. They didn’t go easy on themselves either, creating a caliber with a 72-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, a frequency of 28,800vph, and a chronometer-busting accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day. It’s also been tested and regulated to extremely high standards, tested in six positions in a controlled environment for 12 days.

The movement is nicely finished. It has typical Grand Seiko striping and polished chamfers, and the sapphire crystal glass that protects the caliber is decorated with the company’s logo.

Straps

One aspect of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch that I wasn’t expecting to love so much was the strap. Not because Grand Seiko is in any way bad at crafting straps; it’s just that I’m usually too infatuated by the case or dial to take much notice. This time, though, things are different. The strap was actually one of the first things I noticed when I took the Grand Seiko SBGK002 out of the box.

More often than not, straps – even those by some of the most famous Swiss watchmakers – have a level of stiffness to them. It’s not a bad thing; they just require some warming up and wear to get them feeling comfortable.

In the case of the SBGK002, however, the Japanese-made dark brown alligator leather strap has an almost buttery finish to it. It basically melts straight onto the wrist. It feels worn-in already, yet it looks brand new. It’s the best of both worlds and is quite possibly one of the finest leather straps I have experienced.

It utilizes alligator leather on the upper side and calfskin leather on the underside. There’s monotone stitching, a folded edge, and printing to confirm that the strap is handmade by Grand Seiko. The buckle is 18-carat rose gold with bevelling, polishing, and a satin finish. Some might expect a deployment buckle on a watch of this price, but I actually like the pin buckle in this case. It suits the Grand Seiko Excellence’s classic personality more.

On-Wrist Experience

If you’ve read this far, it’s probably going to come as no surprise that this watch is an absolute pleasure to wear. The 39mm width, 12mm height, and beautifully sloped case make it sit low and unassuming on the arm – and that’s coming from someone with a smaller-than-average wrist at five-and-a-half inches. It’s still going to look the part if your wrist is bigger too. I’d suggest anyone with arms below 8 inches could pull this model off. Any bigger and you might want to check out one of Grand Seiko’s larger timepieces.

Wearability is made all the better by the leather strap. It has this incredible buttery feel that feels as if it’s been broken in, even when you pick it up for the first time. I’m normally more of a metal bracelet kind of wearer, but this Grand Seiko leather strap and the design of the SBGK002 overall, have tempted me to broaden my strap horizons.

Price & Availability

Since its launch in 2019, the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch has been available to order from authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. It’s a limited edition of just 150 pieces and currently retails for $29,000. It’s not one of GS’s most affordable watches, but when you take into account the level of craftsmanship, insanely detailed dial, and solid gold case, it’s a figure that makes sense. If you’re lucky, you might be able to find second-hand examples of the model for around $17,000.

Conclusion

It’s not often I review a watch and have nothing bad to say. But with the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002, I really can’t think of anything I would change. If I had to use one word to describe this model, it would be “luxury”. Everything about the design feels lustrous, glossy and opulent.

The case is finished beautifully, and the combination of the Zaratsu polished case elements with the shiny Urushi lacquer dial is perfect. The warm rose gold and rich burgundy make me feel like royalty, and the dial alone is something I could stare at all day. The dimensions are also well thought-out; it’s compact enough for small wrists like mine and yet still exudes a presence worthy of larger arms.

Finally – and last time, I promise – I need to rave about the leather strap. Normally straps are where most watch brands fall short. It makes sense because most watch wearers don’t give much thought to something that can be easily swapped out.

In this instance, though, I can’t imagine ever wanting to swap out the ultra-soft and supple alligator leather on the SBGK002. It’s comfortable and attractive and suits the colorway of the dial and case beautifully. All I have left to say on the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ is: bravo Grand Seiko, bravo.

Grand Seiko SLGH007 Review: Cedar Rings Dressed in Platinum

Posted on August 23, 2024December 8, 2024 by Charlotte H

A question I get asked more than any other is, “what watch do I recommend to others?”. The answer changes depending on my current mood, the time of year, and the occasion in mind. However, more often than not, the answer is one of the latest novelties from Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko.

Grand Seiko is one of those brands I can talk about forever. They have an incredible history filled with groundbreaking technologies and, of course, some truly outstanding watches that take the cake – even over some of the world’s biggest watch names. One of Grand Seiko’s most memorable releases, and one that caught my attention as soon as it launched back in 2021, was the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 watch. And to my delight, I’ve been lucky enough to get hands-on with this model for review.

History of Grand Seiko & the Heritage Collection

Grand Seiko has carved a truly remarkable legacy in the world of watchmaking since its inception in 1960. Founder Kintaro Hattori set out to create the world’s most “perfect” timepiece and did exactly that, ensuring every Grand Seiko watch embodies precision, legibility, durability, and beauty. There’s no shortage of stunning families forming the Grand Seiko name, but those that appreciate rich heritage and traditional craftsmanship should look at the Grand Seiko Heritage collection.

The Heritage Collection pays homage to GS’s history of tradition and innovation. These watches often boast beautifully textured dials inspired by an aspect of Grand Seiko’s story, as well as dressy cases and powerful in-house movements.

There are a variety of references worthy of attention in the Heritage family, but as mentioned, a personal favorite of mine is the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007. It’s a special watch launched to celebrate the Seiko Company’s 140th anniversary, limited to just 140 pieces worldwide. It’s also just one of a few watches from Grand Seiko handcrafted from premium 950 platinum and decorated with a unique dial inspired by the tree rings of a cedar tree.

A Platinum Case

One of the most distinguishing features of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 is the case. At first glance, you might think the architecture is 18ct white gold, but it’s actually made from 950 platinum, a material denser, harder, and more complex than gold. In fact, platinum can be so difficult to machine watch cases like this can take three times longer to produce than their gold-crafted counterparts.

Once completed, though, a platinum case is a masterpiece in its own right, boasting highly durable and corrosion-resistant properties. If scratched, it can also easily be polished and won’t lose volume as gold does.

This does mean though, that platinum watches are typically expensive and hard to come by. But without fear of revealing the price too quickly, I’m very impressed with the price tag of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 – especially when compared to watches of the same stature. Much of that comes down to the finishing of the case. Every element of the case contrasts to its neighbor with its own unique finishing.

For starters, I love the faceted lug ends that have a combination of cuts and bevels that are polished or brushed. In the same fashion, the fixed, unadorned bezel has beautiful hairline vertical brushed finishing, which contrasts with the lug and bezel sides, which are polished using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu technique. This innovative practice involves pressing and sliding the platinum against a metal plate covered with 400- to 800-grit sandpaper.

It’s an art that takes around 3 years to master and is done completely by hand. There are not many watch brands these days that can claim their watches are hand-finished, and it’s another of the many reasons I love Grand Seiko so much. The polished elements of the case are almost mirror-like and add a sense of energy to the platinum housing that feels very much in line with Grand Seiko’s obsession with light and shadow play.

As for dimensions, the Grand Seiko SLGH007 sits on the wrist at 40mm wide and 11.7mm tall. It’s a little wider than some of the other Heritage models launched before 2020, but the height is significantly slimmer, which gives the watch a dressier feel overall.

There’s also a lug-to-lug width of 46.7mm, which, although it sounds large, thanks to the sloped case, actually sits very compactly on most wrist sizes. It’s a dress watch, after all, so it’ll happily slip under the shirt of a cuff. Yet, thanks to its 100-meter water resistance, it becomes a go-anywhere-do-anything watch offering plenty of protection against everyday exposure to water.

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 watch also presents a knurled crown positioned at 3 o’clock. Despite its 100-meter water-resistant rating, it’s your standard push-in crown, so there’s no need to screw it in and out. The crown is nicely engraved with the “GS” of the Grand Seiko logo. Finally, the glass used to protect the centerpiece dial is box-domed sapphire crystal. It’s the domed silhouette of the glass that adds some of the height to the case’s dimensions, also adding to the design’s vintage appeal.

A Cedar Tree Dial

I think this might be one of the finest dials Grand Seiko has ever done – and that’s saying something because there are some spectacular examples out there. The color of the dial is what I would call anthracite; it’s not quite jet black but has more of a dark gray tone, allowing the texture of the surface to come through. But it’s not the color that has my attention; it’s the surface. Grand Seiko describes the texture here as woodgrain, inspired by the tree rings found on cedar wood.

The finish is so spectacular you’d be forgiven for mistaking the dial as one made from real wood. The color-changing waves or rings are really unique, and unlike any dial I’ve seen before. But it’s not only beautiful; it’s also purposeful. Since Grand Seiko launched the SLGH007 as part of their 140th-anniversary celebrations, the company chose the wood grain texture as a nod to the parallels between growing trees and Grand Seiko. In the same way, trees slowly develop layers of wooden rings over the years, and Grand Seiko has slowly evolved in its design and engineering prowess.

Set upon the cedar-inspired display is an array of 18-carat white gold indices and hands. They all feature the intricate micro-faceted and satin-polished alternation seen on most of Grand Seiko’s dial hardware. Except in this instance, the markers are engineered from white gold and not steel.

Like the hands and indices, even the white gold border for the date window at 3 o’clock utilizes 18-carat white gold and emits a spectacular level of light play. This also assists in the dial’s legibility since no luminous substance is used anywhere. The dial also features a matching 18-carat white gold Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and markings depicting features of the movement at 6 o’clock.

An In-House, Hi-Beat Movement

Just when you thought the level of craftsmanship couldn’t get any higher, you turn the watch over and see the Caliber 9SA5. This is an in-house manufacture movement designed and developed entirely by Grand Seiko. It was launched just before the Grand Seiko SLGH007 in 2020 to mark the creation of the Grand Seiko brand 60 years prior. It represents a huge leap in technology compared to the 9S calibers before it.

For starters, while still maintaining its high-beat frequency of 36,600 or 5Hz, it delivers an extended power reserve of 80 hours (compared to 55 hours before). This is thanks to the new twin barrel architecture, allowing the watch to be taken off the wrist for an entire weekend without any need for rewinding on Monday.

The Caliber 9SA5 automatic winding movement also debuts Grand Seiko’s Dual Impulse Escapement. This is a clever mechanism that allows the power from the escape wheel to be transferred directly to the balance. What does this mean exactly? Well ultimately, it allows the movement to use less power transfer to counter the increased vibration rate of the balance. In turn, it improves the overall accuracy of the movement.

Additionally, according to Grand Seiko, the movement is adjusted to six positions rather than five like a standard chronometer. Again, this guarantees increased accuracy for use in the real world. The watch’s accuracy is rated at -3 to +5 a day, which again trumps COSC’s standard of -4 to +6.

As well as acting the part, the Caliber 9SA5 of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 is a pleasure to view through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. Those of you familiar with Grand Seiko’s 9S movement family might notice that this is one of the biggest calibers in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio.

It fills the entire case back, beautifully showing off its blued screws and 47 jewels through the scratch-resistant glass. You can see the new full balance bridge anchored onto both sides and the stunning striping on the bridges that flow with perfect synchrony.

A Luxury Leather Strap

A feature I was not expecting to enjoy so much on the Grand Seiko SLGH007 is the alligator leather strap. I’m normally more of a metal bracelet watch wearer, but after wearing this model for review, I have a totally new appreciation for high-quality leather like the one featured here.

In this case, it’s a large, almost imposing black alligator leather band with an undeniably luxurious and expensive feel. The leather has been cleverly cut to show the scales symmetrically down the length. There’s also monochromatic stitching, a sheer cut profile on the edges, and a nice smooth calfskin lining embossed with the Grand Seiko logo.

Something you’ll notice straight away about the leather strap here is the quality of the stitching. It’s all too common in the watchmaking world to find poorly put-together leather straps. This is not the case with the Grand Seiko SLGH007. The stitching is perfect and it’s clear a lot of time has been spent to make sure this strap not only looks the part but feels it too.

As mentioned, the case of the SLGH007 isn’t the smallest, but the leather strap, once worn for a longer period of time, will no doubt soften up and make the watch even more wearable. Finally, we can’t talk about the strap without mentioning the buckle. I’ve always applauded Grand Seiko for their buckles, and again, the buckle here is crafted by Grand Seiko themselves.

It’s engineered from the same 950 platinum as the case and has an innovative twin trigger release that opens the expansive folding mechanism. There’s also lovely blasted and polished finishing on the GS logo situated on the clasp.

I appreciate that Grand Seiko has used platinum on the buckle here. It’s all too often watch brands use 18ct white gold on the strap of a platinum watch, simply because they already have white gold buckles in stock. So, well done Grand Seiko.

On-Wrist Experience

Wearing the Grand Seiko SLGH007 has been an absolute pleasure, and I’ll be honest, it wasn’t an easy watch to give back. I was a little dubious at first due to the sizing. It’s clear this is a little larger than your typical dress watch, with a 40mm width and 11.7mm height, and when you pair that with my relatively small five-and-a-half-inch wrists, it sounds like a recipe for disaster.

But instead, it was the total opposite. Sure, it was a large watch for me, but when the level of craftsmanship is this impressive, I want something big and bold for everyone to see.

One of my favorite features includes the finishing of the case. The contrast between the hairline brushing and the Zaratsu polishing is breathtaking and makes this watch sparkle almost like a gemstone.

Equally, I couldn’t take my eyes away from the dial, and I found myself constantly distracted by the color-changing texture. It’s also nice knowing there’s a story behind the cedar-inspired finish, one that perfectly encapsulates the history of Grand Seiko.

Finally, I have nothing bad to say about the Caliber 9SA5 movement. The entire mechanism ran as smoothly as expected during my time with the SLGH007. I noticed little to no deviations in accuracy, and the hacking seconds function was a nice touch when I needed to change the hour without compromising the seconds. The 80-hour power reserve was very useful, and I can imagine this being a perfect weekday work watch for many, keeping on time even when it’s off the wrist over the weekend.

Price & Availability

Somehow, despite being released three years ago, there are still some of the 140 limited edition pieces of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 out there. There’s only a few, so keep that in mind if you’re interested! You can purchase it new today for $59,000 at Exquisite Timepieces, or you can find some pre-owned examples starting from around $45,000.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I can confidently say the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 is a stunning watch, one that is a testament to Kintaro Hattori’s original dedication to perfection. It combines some of the world’s most luxurious materials with a unique historical narrative and a spectacularly finished cedar-like dial for the ultimate display of watchmaking excellence. The in-house Caliber 9SA5 movement is also a huge step up from previous 9S calibers, promising higher levels of precision and wear than before.

As mentioned, wearing the SLGH007 was a delightful experience and I would seriously consider purchasing this dress watch for myself one day. It stands out on any wrist size but would best suit people with 6.75-inch wrists or above if a more compact dress watch is desired. One thing I found was that this watch is a conversation starter with watch collectors and normal folk alike. I had so many compliments on the design when I wore it, and even with my five-and-a-half-inch wrists, it was comfortable and wearable.

My only real complaint is how it photographs. Trust me when I say the Grand Seiko SLGH007 looks even better in person. If you get a chance to see one at your local authorized retailer, please do so. It’s a must if you really want to appreciate the level of artistry involved – especially on the dial!