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Grand Seiko SLGA019 Review

Posted on August 30, 2024September 25, 2024 by Charlotte H

Have you ever wondered what the texture of a lake would look like on a watch dial? No, me neither. But of course, nature-loving Grand Seiko has done just that, reinterpreting the blue-colored ripples of Lake Suwa onto the dial of their sporty Evolution 9 model. The result?

From online images, it should be a sporty chic watch with a dial that leaves you pretty mesmerized. But is the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 as good in person?

Thankfully, I got hands-on with the model this past week to see if its impressive list of specs is up to scratch. As most of you know, we hold Grand Seiko in high esteem. They are one of just a few brands that have truly mastered horological excellence, proudly focusing on precision, elegance, and functionality.

Because of this, however, we find ourselves with high standards when it comes to reviewing their watches. So is the Grand Seiko SLGA019 a masterpiece, or is it simply a novelty that fulfills the Japanese watchmaker’s obsession with nature? Let’s find out, shall we.

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection

Before we get into the nitty gritty details of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019, we first need to take a stroll down memory lane and consider where this model came from. Back in 1960, Seiko decided to up their game and create a more luxury-focused range of watches. Enter Grand Seiko, a collection of timepieces with premium finishing, materials and movements.

Fast forward to 2017 and CEO Shinji Hattori made the announcement that Grand Seiko would become a standalone brand, separate from the Seiko Watch Company. With the Evolution 9 collection, which was launched three years later, Grand Seiko outlined a set of nine design standards that every model must hit.

These included elements like a flat dial, double wide index at 12 o’clock, multi-faceted hour and minute hands, and a bracelet with at least half the width of the case with the right thickness and heft.

You might be thinking this sounds like all Grand Seiko watches. And in some ways, it is, but the Evolution 9 hits more differently than you might anticipate. In fact, some of the changes to the design are almost invisible to the naked eye. For example, the way the ergonomic case has a lower center of gravity on the wrist isn’t something you can see, but it’s something you feel once it’s strapped on.

But does this apply to the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019? For starters, the Japanese watchmaker has forgone the classic flat dial for one inspired by the soft blue ripples of its namesake.

The luxury watch company has habitually drawn inspiration from aspects of nature surrounding their factory, and this novelty is no different. This time, they look to Lake Suwa, a freshwater lake in the Nagano Prefecture of Japan, known for its natural beauty and hot springs.

This isn’t the first watch from Grand Seiko to form a “Lake Suwa ” series. In truth, this is the third in a line-up of three. The first was reference SLGA007, launched as part of the brand’s 140th anniversary celebration.

The second arrived shortly after, reference SBGY007, which utilized a slightly different, but equally exquisite “Omiwatari ” dial pattern and marked the first non-limited edition Lake Suwa watch. Then there was SLGA019, launching later in 2023 and becoming the lightest of them all.

A Lightweight Titanium Case

Arguably, the biggest difference between the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 watch and the two launched before it is the case material. This time, the 40mm wide and 11.8mm tall case is machined from titanium, a material 30-35% lighter than stainless steel.

This makes the SLGA019 incredibly wearable and comfortable, especially as an everyday dress watch. The metal also has a slightly warmer hue and softer appearance, plus it benefits from extra corrosion resistance.

This isn’t just any plain old titanium, either. It’s Grand Seiko’s patented high-intensity titanium, which offers a higher level of scratch resistance and durability than standard titanium.

As I typically do with most titanium watches, I had to weigh it for myself, and according to my scales, reference SLGA019 weighs in at just under 112 grams. It’s a really nice weight for a dress watch; it’s not so light that it feels invisible, but it has a nice lightness that makes it effortless to wear when simply going about your business.

As you’d expect from Grand Seiko, the finishing of the Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 watch is exceptional. The angular case presents the Evolution 9’s small, sloping lugs with a brushed finish to match the vertically brushed fixed bezel and bracelet links.

In contrast, the bezel and case sides are finished using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu polishing, a technique that involves using a spinning tin plate coated with diamond paste to create a flawless, distortion-free mirror finish.

The Grand Seiko SLGA019 sits on the wrist with a lug-to-lug width of 47.9mm and boasts dual-curved sapphire crystal glass on top, a screwed exhibition case back – also utilizing sapphire crystal — and a simple knurled crown at 3 o’clock. The crown offers screw-down capability for a reasonable 100-meter water-resistant rating and is topped by the “GS” logo.

Lake Suwa-Inspired Dial

Due to its name, many will admire the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 most for its dial. Grand Seiko described the dial of the original Lake Suwa SLGA007 model to be inspired by “the calm waters of Lake Suwa”.

The second (SBGY007) replicated the look of the water when it froze during the winter. This time, Grand Seiko suggests the lighter hue evokes “the surface of Lake Suwa and its gentle waves in the early morning hours when a breeze stirs the long, shallow lake.”

In my opinion, this is the best of the “Lake Suwa” dials so far. Why? Because the shade of blue seems to change color depending on your surroundings. It stands out in a bold royal blue in direct sunlight, and yet, in the shade, it becomes an almost discreet shade of black. The supple ripple texture also gives the watch a certain sparkle; both the color and texture are highly responsive to light, reflecting it with every twist and turn.

The hands and indices are also perfectly finished in the Evolution 9 style. Each hour marker is multifaceted, and the 12 o’clock marker has a double multifaceted shape. Despite not having a touch of lume anywhere on the dial, the display of the Grand Seiko SLGA019 is brilliantly legible.

The dauphine-style hands are also broad and easy to read, offering classic hours, minutes, and seconds complication. The hour hand has a unique shape, with the end sliced off and a facet running down the center.

All the silvered hardware, including the boxed-in date at 3 o’clock, is brightly polished. My only complaint about the Grand Seiko SLGA019’s dial involves the date window. I can’t help but think, with a dial as beautiful as this, the date should have been neglected.

And if a date must be insisted on, they should at least swap the white disc to one of navy for a more seamless, subtle finish. The dial is finished with the Grand Seiko logo added in relief at 12 o’clock and lettering denoting information about the movement at 6 o’clock.

The Spring Drive Movement

Like the previous three Grand Seiko “Lake Suwa” watches, SLGA019 is powered by the Japanese brand’s in-house 9RA2 Spring Drive movement. This caliber cleverly combines the precision of a quartz movement with the smooth sweeping motion of a mechanical watch. This alone makes the SLGA019 a valuable timepiece, and when combined with the lightweight case and textured dial, there’s very little to berate.

The quartz-mechanical hybrid is ingeniously engineered to maintain a remarkable accuracy of ±0.5 seconds per day or ±10 seconds per month. This exceptional accuracy is achieved through a combination of a quartz oscillator for timing stability, a mechanical gear train for power transmission, and an electromagnetic brake to regulate the speed of the glide wheel.

The result is a movement that not only keeps impeccable time but also provides a unique tactile experience with its smooth, silent glide of the seconds hand.

There’s plenty of pleasant finishing seen through the case back. I particularly like the frosted plates and bridges that are inspired by the frost that winter brings to the trees surrounding Grand Seiko’s manufacturing facility.

As always, there’s blued screwed, beveled edges, 38 jewels, and an off-set magic lever to keep the movement, and consequently, the case, nice and thin. Rather than being placed on the front of the dial like most of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive watches, the power reserve is positioned on the back of the movement, so when the watch is off your wrist, you can see what’s remaining out of its 120-hour reserve.

Titanium Bracelet

Like the case, the bracelet is made using Grand Seiko’s high-intensity titanium. It boasts a three-link construction with a completely matte finish thanks to the vertically brushed decoration. It tapers from a 22mm lug width where it meets the case down to a 21mm width where the buckle appears. The buckle is embossed with the GS logo on top and has folding functionality with push button release.

One of the few weak points of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 is that the bracelet lacks any sort of micro-adjustment. This hampers its ability to be used as a daily wearer since anyone familiar with wearing metal bracelet watches will know your wrist can swell and contract as the day goes on and temperatures vary.

It would have been a nice addition for Grand Seiko to include a micro-adjustment system on this bracelet; I know it’s a feature many GS enthusiasts have been hoping for in the Evolution 9 series.

It also comes with push pins for sizing instead of screws, which is a little crazy for a watch of this caliber. I’ve said it once, but I’ll say it again: Grand Seiko does everything right until it comes to their metal bracelets.

The bracelet does arrive with drilled lugs, though, so you can easily swap around the strap to something more suitable if you want. The 22mm lug width means you’ll have an endless supply of strap options to choose from. If it were me, I’d invest in a better-styled titanium bracelet or a nice chocolate brown alligator leather band.

On-Wrist Experience

With a watch like the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019, wearability is essential. First impressions confirmed that this was a watch I could effortlessly wear all day, every day. Its titanium construction is incredibly lightweight, and its dimensions make it effortlessly wearable for most wrist types.

The lug-to-lug is a little larger than I’d like, but the slender profile, sleek curves, and low center of gravity make up for this. I’d suggest the SLGA019 would be best suited to those with six and a half inch wrists and above – but even myself, with a five-and-a-half-inch wrist enjoyed the statement this watch made.

While its case makes it a daily beater, the dial of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 makes it one of the finest dress watches in the collection. The detailing and shade of blue are divine, and as always, the finishing on the dial’s hardware makes it sparkle almost like a diamond in certain lights. Its 11.8mm height means it’s also ideal for slipping it under shirt cuffs – although if it were me, I’d keep this bad boy out in the open for everyone to see.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SLGA019 retails for $10,400 brand new and is available to order from your local authorized dealer, including Exquisite Timepieces. It can also be found on the second-hand market for around $6,500. It’s another non-limited edition design, but with how popular the “Lake Suwa” series has proven so far, I wouldn’t expect it to stay in stock for much longer.

Conclusion

Like any watch, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 has some room for improvement. Where the design is let down most is on the bracelet. I’m really hoping Grand Seiko up their bracelet game soon, as a watch like this deserves some micro-adjustment, and it especially needs to have screws rather than push pins. I’d also like to see the “Lake Suwa” series either dateless or at least with a color-matching date disc to match the textured display.

Other than that, the Grand Seiko SLGA019 is exceptional. The lightness of the titanium case, the levels of finishing on the case and bracelet, and the detail found on the detail are breathtaking.

Then you have the in-house 9RA2 Spring Drive movement as the cherry on top. The weekday-proof 120-hour power reserve is extremely useful, and with a level of precision like this, you’ll never have an excuse for being late. I stand by my claim that this is the most handsome Grand Seiko “Lake Suwa” watch released so far.

Grand Seiko SLGH005 Review

Posted on August 30, 2024September 25, 2024 by Charlotte H

Whether it be the texture of snow, the ripples on a lake, or the color of the sky at a particular time of the day, Grand Seiko has pretty much interpreted every aspect of nature seen outside their factory windows onto a watch dial.

The Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is nestled in a quiet forest in Japan’s Iwate Prefecture. It’s here that the original Grand Seiko watch was created and that their new watches and 9S mechanical movements are made.

It seems that outside these windows, Grand Seiko is treated to an abundance of breathtaking scenery from which they can draw inspiration when designing their watches. Whether it be cherry blossoms in bloom in Japan’s early springtime, a garden path through a bamboo forest, or the sight of rain falling on Mt. Iwate, Japan’s nature has well and truly been honored by a Grand Seiko dial more times than we can count.

And yet, just when you think their inspiration must be running thin, they launch one of the most brilliant-looking watch dials I have ever seen. The Grand Seiko SLGH005, nicknamed the “White Birch” for obvious reasons, is inspired by Shirakaba, the Japanese term for white birch trees. “Shira” signifies “white,” and “kaba” combines the kanji for “wood” and “beauty”.

In images I had seen online, the dial finish looked immaculate, but I had not seen the watch in person… until now. So now that I have it on my wrist, the question is: does the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 live up to my expectations?

The History of the Grand Seiko SLGH005

Before we get into the nitty-gritty details of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005, I want to first mention the impact this watch had on its release. When it launched in early 2020, it felt like the start of a new chapter for Grand Seiko. It wasn’t wholly new in any sense, really; we’d seen the sleek and dynamic Evolution 9 case and bracelet already, and we’d enjoyed several models equipped with their in-house Caliber 9SA5 movement.

However, what set the SLGH005 apart from its predecessors was that it marked their first regular production model. It wasn’t exclusive to any part of the world nor limited to a specific number of designs to celebrate the company’s 60th anniversary.

This might not seem all that extraordinary, but when a brand debuts a new case architecture and a new movement to go with it, there’s always some uncertainty about how well it will fare, both in popularity and reliability.

So, the launch of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 as a permanent addition to the brand’s portfolio was proof these aesthetics and technologies were here to stay.

The Evolution 9 Case

For me, dimensions can make or break a watch. I have fairly slender wrists, at around five-and-a-half inches wide, so when I saw that the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 had some healthy proportions, I knew we were off to a good start.

The case measures 40mm in diameter, 11.7mm in height, and a 47mm lug-to-lug. And for those interested, I measured the end link-to-end link diameter as 50.3mm. These are classic dimensions for a daily beater watch and would happily suit wrists similar to mine or bigger.

It wears a little lower on the wrist than its height suggests, too. That’s helped by the double-stepped case, the low flanks of the bezel, and the beautiful downward-turned lugs. The case is entirely machined from stainless steel and follows the architecture of previous Evolution 9 models. The Evolution 9 series is designed to be a more modern watch compared to some of GS’s more traditional collections like the Heritage and Elegance.

It cleverly blends a range of aesthetics sourced from Grand Seiko’s design history to create a watch that’s not quite a sports watch nor a dress watch but one somewhere in between.

This makes the SLGH005 extremely versatile, working just as well with denim as a black tie. Part of the reason it feels like a sports watch is the screw-down crown, which offers 100-meter water resistance, a specification far higher than the typical dress watch standard.

The contrasting finishes used on the case are also to blame. There’s satin brushing on the case sides and bezel top, which juxtaposes nicely with the bright polishing used on the bezel sides and lug edges. The latter is achieved using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu polishing technique, which is done entirely by hand and is a rather lengthy process. The result, though, is stunning with a mirror-like finish.

On top, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 delivers high-quality sapphire crystal glass that is both cambered and box-shaped. The box section is seen outward while the cambered shape is central, creating a seemingly flat but beautifully undistorted view of the dial. Sapphire crystal is also featured on the case back, so you can admire the in-house movement inside when the watch is off your wrist.

The White Birch Dial

Due to its name, I expected the dial of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 would be white. But it’s not. In fact, the textured display is entirely silver with a metallic finish inspired by the look of the white birch trees spotted outside the Shizukuishi studio.

I was pleasantly surprised upon unboxing the SLGH005. Part of me had wondered if a white dial would make the design look all too similar to the GS Snowflake. Instead, the silver dial really makes this watch a novelty in its own right.

The dial texture well and truly looks like the grain of a white birch branch or trunk. I don’t know how Grand Seiko does it, but they are experts in mimicking the colors and textures of nature onto dials.

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 is one of the same. It has very deep grooves that give the dial an almost rustic-like appearance and provide plenty of visual interest. It’s one of those displays you can get lost in all too easily.

According to Grand Seiko, creating the SLGH005’s dial is no easy feat. It requires up to 20 steps to fabricate, many of which involve clear coating the surface. This is done up to 14 or 15 times before the finishing touches are done to create the final silver color and texture. It’s only after that that the Japanese watchmaker can begin adding the GS logo, silver-bordered date window, and hands and minute markers.

For the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 watch, the indexes are hand-applied and faceted with the 12 o’clock marker featuring the Evolution 9’s double-faceted profile. The hour hand is uniquely shaped, with a flat end, while the minutes and seconds are kept nice and sharp.

The latter is steel and fired blue for a brilliant contrast against the rest of the monochromatic display. There’s no lume in sight, but the bright polishing of all the hardware provides plenty of legibility, at least in the daytime.

Movement

With so much going on with the case and dial, it’s easy to forget that the movement within the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 watch is just as much, if not more impressive.

The movement in question is Caliber 9SA5, an in-house manufacture movement that brings together some of Grand Seiko’s greatest proprietary technologies into one place. The result is a movement with a weekend-proof 80-hour power reserve and a high beat frequency of 36,600 vibrations per hour.

One of the biggest draws of the Caliber 9SA5 is the escapement design. It has a dual-impulse, increasing energy efficiency and allowing for such a high frequency and long power reserve.

I won’t go into too much detail about how this works because I’m no engineer, but I do know it’s technology garnered plenty of applause and is considered a real example of haute horlogerie. It’s also 15% slimmer than previous 9S calibers, measuring to just 5.18mm tall. This is achieved by placing the barrel and gear trains in a special horizontal layout.

In addition to being technically impressive, the Caliber 9SA5 is a beautiful movement. Through the sapphire crystal case back, you can view the breathtaking bridges designed to mimic the flowing lines of Mt. Iwate and the Shizukuishi River. The surfaces are treated with striping, polished bevels, and perlage, and the oscillating rotor has a more openwork design compared to previous 9S Calibres, giving us a better view of the components below that are hard at work.

Straps

Like all the watches in the Evolution 9 Series, the Grand Seiko “White Birch” SLGH005 is finished by a modern and broad metal bracelet. It matches the case in its stainless steel construction and has a wonderful array of finishes including polished links on the outer face and a satin-brushed top.

I particularly like the staggered link alignment, as this adds to the watch’s sporty persona, plus the bracelet has an integrated end link to remove any awkward gaps between the case and strap.

The buckle is just as beautifully finished with both satin and polished finishing and the GS logo in relief. It’s a single-fold deployment clasp with a twin trigger release, so it’s not easy to accidentally pop open.

The strap is 22mm wide, so swapping it out for another is made easy, plus its length can be adjusted by screws. My only real complaint, as is normally the case with Grand Seiko bracelets, is that there’s no fine adjustment clasp. But there are varying ranges of link sizes that can be taken out, so finding a good fit won’t be too difficult.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 is a unique offering from the Japanese watchmaker for many reasons, one being its wearability. On paper, the dimensions are extremely wearable and don’t get me wrong, this is a comfortable watch, but it is a little larger than some of their other models.

Much of that is down to the lug-to-lug distance of 50.3mm when you include the male end links. It still wears nicely on my five-and-a-half-inch wrist, but it felt more like a statement timepiece than a real daily beater. I’d recommend that if you want this watch to be your everyday go-to, you’ll need to be an individual with 6.75-inch wrists or more.

That said, it has a nice low profile, making it feel a touch more compact. It’s the perfect height for a dress watch, as it’ll slip under the cuff of a shirt without issue. But I have to say, with a dial like this, I wouldn’t want to hide the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 under a sleeve. I’ll say it again, but this dial is beautiful. I want to stare at it and have others stare at it, too.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 retails brand new for $9,100 or can be found on the second-hand market for between $5,000 and $7,000. It’s a non-limited edition, so it is currently part of the brand’s permanent collection. If you’re interested in this model, we recommend purchasing a watch of this caliber through an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

There’s no putting this any plainer: the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 is a beautiful watch and represents the very best of what this Japanese watchmaker can do. The case’s design language, the exquisite finishing of the dial and the technology incorporated within the high-beat movement is just exceptional and there are very few watches made to this standard available under $10,000.

My favorite feature of the model will come to no one’s surprise. It’s the dial. The intense metallic silver color with its shimmering tree bark effect is breathtaking, and it creates an almost mesmerizing coherent finish with the metal case and bracelet. This really is a watch you deserve to see in person. Sadly, I’m not sure even my writing skills can translate this watch’s immaculate beauty.

Grand Seiko SBGK002 Review

Posted on August 28, 2024September 25, 2024 by Charlotte H

There’s a long list of Grand Seiko watches I’ve always wanted to get hands-on with. I’ve been fortunate to tick some of them off my bucket list already, but one that has been sitting close to the top spot for quite some time is the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002.

Why? Because this is one of those watches that looks absolutely breathtaking in pictures. The warm 18-carat rose gold case, and the rich burgundy dial are enough to make your wrists sweat. And then you have the texture of the dial; it’s a display that looks as if it’s almost made of hair with Urushi lacquer creating a fine and unique texture. But is the Grand Seiko SBGK002 as impressive in person? I’m excited to say I finally found out.

A Pre-Baselworld 2019 Launch

There’s never been a shortage of dressy and elegant Grand Seiko watches. Ultimately, the company’s founder Kintaro Hattori set out to create a “perfect” watch, one that was durable, legible, precise and most importantly, beautiful. He certainly succeeded as proved by Grand Seiko’s unquestionable execution in both their mechanics and aesthetics.

Just before Baselworld (RIP) opened its doors in 2019, the Japanese watchmaker launched a collection of four watches that embraced the qualities of a dress watch even further. We’re talking about high-end case materials, thin dimensions, Urushi lacquer dials (a first for GS at this time), and a new movement. The series was known as the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection and featured four references noted as SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005, and SBGK006.

The first, and my personal favorite at the time, reference SBGK002, is the very model we’re reviewing today. It features a solid rose gold case and a deep red dial. In contrast, SBGK004 pairs its rose gold case with a black dial, SBGK005 opts for a blue dial and steel housing, and SBGK006 (the only non-limited edition in the line-up) sports a white dial and a yellow gold case.

All four felt very different from the Grand Seiko watches we’d seen before. Sure, Grand Seiko already had plenty of dress models in their portfolio, but these stood out. It wasn’t just because they used Urushi lacquer for the first time.

They chose a more refined case with fewer sharp and angular elements, plus a set of dimensions that made them perfectly suited to almost any wrist size. Everything just sounds too good to be true. So, does the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 live up to its reputation?

A Vintage Rose Gold Case

First impressions: The case of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK002 watch might be one of the most impressive cases I’ve seen on a GS watch yet. It’s immediately elegant, but the more you stare at it, the more you realize just how complex its construction is.

It has a generously sloped architecture that seems to be made from one single block of 18-carat rose gold. It’s beautifully soft, with round corners and edges and little to no shared elements. For example, while most Grand Seiko cases have a facet on the internal side of the lugs, this model has no boundary separating the case band and lugs. The lugs’ width is also only 19mm, which adds to the design’s 19th-century-inspired aesthetic.

The dimensions of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 add to its dressy personality further. It arrives with a diameter of 39mm and a height of just 12mm. Lug to lug is also just 44mm making this one of the most wearable Grand Seiko watches on the market. As someone with a generally small wrist size compared to the average at five-and-a-half inches, this sits comfortably without fault.

The top surfaces of the case are finished with the Japanese watchmaker’s famous Zaratsu tin plate polish for a brilliantly dressy, almost mirror-like shine. In contrast, the case sides, which are remarkably slim in their profile, are detailed with satin finishing that runs vertically. The cambered underside has the same Zaratsu polished finish as the top. The crown, also in 18ct rose gold, is gently knurled and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. It has a slight counter-sink into the case’s profile.

The case is topped by domed sapphire crystal glass which again elevates its vintage feel and presents an unadorned 18ct rose gold bezel with a slight conical profile. Again, the bezel has a high polish finish. Turning the Grand Seiko SBGK002 over reveals a glimpse into the 9S63 movement within, one protected by a simple 30-meter water-resistant rating.

A Complex Urushi Lacquer Dial

It’s not often you’ll find a Grand Seiko dial that is anything but mesmerizing. Let’s be honest, this Japanese watchmaker has well and truly mastered the art of dial design. It’s surprising though, that it took until 2019 for the company to use Urushi lacquer on one of their watches.

The rare technique involves the sap from Urushi, a tree grown around the town of Joboji that lies under Mt. Iwate, the very mountain seen out the windows of Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio. The sap is then turned into a lacquer that hardens, becoming extremely durable with a breathtaking, glossy finish.

In the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch, the lacquer is dyed in a rich burgundy hue and applied carefully to create this intricate, fur-like finish. Grand Seiko calls it their “Mt. Iwate pattern” since it is inspired by the ridgelines of the magnificent mountain. It’s the kind of dial you can stare at forever, getting lost in its complexity. The rich shade of red is also the perfect companion for the rose gold case, with the warmth of both creating a truly luxurious-looking watch.

At first glance, the hardware on the Grand Seiko SBGK002 watch’s dial may appear simple, but it’s anything but. The off-gray hour markers and “GS” letters of the Grand Seiko logo are decorated with a traditional Japanese technique called Maki-e. Done by hand by master Isshu Tamura in his studio in Kanazawa on the west coast of Japan’s main island, it’s a process that combines platinum powder with lacquer, taking great dexterity and patience. Every marker has the same depth and shape, created by applying layer after layer of the lacquer. It gives the numeral and markers a three-dimensional profile for a nice level of legibility.

In contrast, the hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, and power reserve indicator are crafted from rose gold and hand-finished using diamond-tipped tools. The hour and minute hands are faceted with satin brushing on the top and polished on the bezels.

I have to applaud Grand Seiko for the perfect symmetry achieved in the placement of the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. It’s not easy to add a power reserve indicator to a dial without the aesthetic feeling cluttered, but it’s been done here perfectly, giving us extra functionality without losing out on any level of elegance.

A Rare Manual-Winding Movement

It would have been all too easy for Grand Seiko to place one of their well-known and highly regarded automatic movements into the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002, but they didn’t, and thank goodness they didn’t. Why? Because this is a vintage-inspired watch that deserves the traditionalism of a manual winding movement.

When the Excellence collection was released, the Caliber 9S63 marked Grand Seiko’s first manual winding movement in six years. They didn’t go easy on themselves either, creating a caliber with a 72-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, a frequency of 28,800vph, and a chronometer-busting accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day. It’s also been tested and regulated to extremely high standards, tested in six positions in a controlled environment for 12 days.

The movement is nicely finished. It has typical Grand Seiko striping and polished chamfers, and the sapphire crystal glass that protects the caliber is decorated with the company’s logo.

Straps

One aspect of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch that I wasn’t expecting to love so much was the strap. Not because Grand Seiko is in any way bad at crafting straps; it’s just that I’m usually too infatuated by the case or dial to take much notice. This time, though, things are different. The strap was actually one of the first things I noticed when I took the Grand Seiko SBGK002 out of the box.

More often than not, straps – even those by some of the most famous Swiss watchmakers – have a level of stiffness to them. It’s not a bad thing; they just require some warming up and wear to get them feeling comfortable.

In the case of the SBGK002, however, the Japanese-made dark brown alligator leather strap has an almost buttery finish to it. It basically melts straight onto the wrist. It feels worn-in already, yet it looks brand new. It’s the best of both worlds and is quite possibly one of the finest leather straps I have experienced.

It utilizes alligator leather on the upper side and calfskin leather on the underside. There’s monotone stitching, a folded edge, and printing to confirm that the strap is handmade by Grand Seiko. The buckle is 18-carat rose gold with bevelling, polishing, and a satin finish. Some might expect a deployment buckle on a watch of this price, but I actually like the pin buckle in this case. It suits the Grand Seiko Excellence’s classic personality more.

On-Wrist Experience

If you’ve read this far, it’s probably going to come as no surprise that this watch is an absolute pleasure to wear. The 39mm width, 12mm height, and beautifully sloped case make it sit low and unassuming on the arm – and that’s coming from someone with a smaller-than-average wrist at five-and-a-half inches. It’s still going to look the part if your wrist is bigger too. I’d suggest anyone with arms below 8 inches could pull this model off. Any bigger and you might want to check out one of Grand Seiko’s larger timepieces.

Wearability is made all the better by the leather strap. It has this incredible buttery feel that feels as if it’s been broken in, even when you pick it up for the first time. I’m normally more of a metal bracelet kind of wearer, but this Grand Seiko leather strap and the design of the SBGK002 overall, have tempted me to broaden my strap horizons.

Price & Availability

Since its launch in 2019, the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch has been available to order from authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. It’s a limited edition of just 150 pieces and currently retails for $29,000. It’s not one of GS’s most affordable watches, but when you take into account the level of craftsmanship, insanely detailed dial, and solid gold case, it’s a figure that makes sense. If you’re lucky, you might be able to find second-hand examples of the model for around $17,000.

Conclusion

It’s not often I review a watch and have nothing bad to say. But with the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002, I really can’t think of anything I would change. If I had to use one word to describe this model, it would be “luxury”. Everything about the design feels lustrous, glossy and opulent.

The case is finished beautifully, and the combination of the Zaratsu polished case elements with the shiny Urushi lacquer dial is perfect. The warm rose gold and rich burgundy make me feel like royalty, and the dial alone is something I could stare at all day. The dimensions are also well thought-out; it’s compact enough for small wrists like mine and yet still exudes a presence worthy of larger arms.

Finally – and last time, I promise – I need to rave about the leather strap. Normally straps are where most watch brands fall short. It makes sense because most watch wearers don’t give much thought to something that can be easily swapped out.

In this instance, though, I can’t imagine ever wanting to swap out the ultra-soft and supple alligator leather on the SBGK002. It’s comfortable and attractive and suits the colorway of the dial and case beautifully. All I have left to say on the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ is: bravo Grand Seiko, bravo.

Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 Review

Posted on August 23, 2024September 25, 2024 by Charlotte H

A question I get asked more than any other is, “what watch do I recommend to others?”. The answer changes depending on my current mood, the time of year, and the occasion in mind. However, more often than not, the answer is one of the latest novelties from Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko.

Grand Seiko is one of those brands I can talk about forever. They have an incredible history filled with groundbreaking technologies and, of course, some truly outstanding watches that take the cake – even over some of the world’s biggest watch names. One of Grand Seiko’s most memorable releases, and one that caught my attention as soon as it launched back in 2021, was the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 watch. And to my delight, I’ve been lucky enough to get hands-on with this model for review.

History of Grand Seiko & the Heritage Collection

Grand Seiko has carved a truly remarkable legacy in the world of watchmaking since its inception in 1960. Founder Kintaro Hattori set out to create the world’s most “perfect” timepiece and did exactly that, ensuring every Grand Seiko watch embodies precision, legibility, durability, and beauty. There’s no shortage of stunning families forming the Grand Seiko name, but those that appreciate rich heritage and traditional craftsmanship should look at the Grand Seiko Heritage collection.

The Heritage Collection pays homage to GS’s history of tradition and innovation. These watches often boast beautifully textured dials inspired by an aspect of Grand Seiko’s story, as well as dressy cases and powerful in-house movements.

There are a variety of references worthy of attention in the Heritage family, but as mentioned, a personal favorite of mine is the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007. It’s a special watch launched to celebrate the Seiko Company’s 140th anniversary, limited to just 140 pieces worldwide. It’s also just one of a few watches from Grand Seiko handcrafted from premium 950 platinum and decorated with a unique dial inspired by the tree rings of a cedar tree.

A Platinum Case

One of the most distinguishing features of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 is the case. At first glance, you might think the architecture is 18ct white gold, but it’s actually made from 950 platinum, a material denser, harder, and more complex than gold. In fact, platinum can be so difficult to machine watch cases like this can take three times longer to produce than their gold-crafted counterparts.

Once completed, though, a platinum case is a masterpiece in its own right, boasting highly durable and corrosion-resistant properties. If scratched, it can also easily be polished and won’t lose volume as gold does.

This does mean though, that platinum watches are typically expensive and hard to come by. But without fear of revealing the price too quickly, I’m very impressed with the price tag of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 – especially when compared to watches of the same stature. Much of that comes down to the finishing of the case. Every element of the case contrasts to its neighbor with its own unique finishing.

For starters, I love the faceted lug ends that have a combination of cuts and bevels that are polished or brushed. In the same fashion, the fixed, unadorned bezel has beautiful hairline vertical brushed finishing, which contrasts with the lug and bezel sides, which are polished using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu technique. This innovative practice involves pressing and sliding the platinum against a metal plate covered with 400- to 800-grit sandpaper.

It’s an art that takes around 3 years to master and is done completely by hand. There are not many watch brands these days that can claim their watches are hand-finished, and it’s another of the many reasons I love Grand Seiko so much. The polished elements of the case are almost mirror-like and add a sense of energy to the platinum housing that feels very much in line with Grand Seiko’s obsession with light and shadow play.

As for dimensions, the Grand Seiko SLGH007 sits on the wrist at 40mm wide and 11.7mm tall. It’s a little wider than some of the other Heritage models launched before 2020, but the height is significantly slimmer, which gives the watch a dressier feel overall.

There’s also a lug-to-lug width of 46.7mm, which, although it sounds large, thanks to the sloped case, actually sits very compactly on most wrist sizes. It’s a dress watch, after all, so it’ll happily slip under the shirt of a cuff. Yet, thanks to its 100-meter water resistance, it becomes a go-anywhere-do-anything watch offering plenty of protection against everyday exposure to water.

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 watch also presents a knurled crown positioned at 3 o’clock. Despite its 100-meter water-resistant rating, it’s your standard push-in crown, so there’s no need to screw it in and out. The crown is nicely engraved with the “GS” of the Grand Seiko logo. Finally, the glass used to protect the centerpiece dial is box-domed sapphire crystal. It’s the domed silhouette of the glass that adds some of the height to the case’s dimensions, also adding to the design’s vintage appeal.

A Cedar Tree Dial

I think this might be one of the finest dials Grand Seiko has ever done – and that’s saying something because there are some spectacular examples out there. The color of the dial is what I would call anthracite; it’s not quite jet black but has more of a dark gray tone, allowing the texture of the surface to come through. But it’s not the color that has my attention; it’s the surface. Grand Seiko describes the texture here as woodgrain, inspired by the tree rings found on cedar wood.

The finish is so spectacular you’d be forgiven for mistaking the dial as one made from real wood. The color-changing waves or rings are really unique, and unlike any dial I’ve seen before. But it’s not only beautiful; it’s also purposeful. Since Grand Seiko launched the SLGH007 as part of their 140th-anniversary celebrations, the company chose the wood grain texture as a nod to the parallels between growing trees and Grand Seiko. In the same way, trees slowly develop layers of wooden rings over the years, and Grand Seiko has slowly evolved in its design and engineering prowess.

Set upon the cedar-inspired display is an array of 18-carat white gold indices and hands. They all feature the intricate micro-faceted and satin-polished alternation seen on most of Grand Seiko’s dial hardware. Except in this instance, the markers are engineered from white gold and not steel.

Like the hands and indices, even the white gold border for the date window at 3 o’clock utilizes 18-carat white gold and emits a spectacular level of light play. This also assists in the dial’s legibility since no luminous substance is used anywhere. The dial also features a matching 18-carat white gold Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and markings depicting features of the movement at 6 o’clock.

An In-House, Hi-Beat Movement

Just when you thought the level of craftsmanship couldn’t get any higher, you turn the watch over and see the Caliber 9SA5. This is an in-house manufacture movement designed and developed entirely by Grand Seiko. It was launched just before the Grand Seiko SLGH007 in 2020 to mark the creation of the Grand Seiko brand 60 years prior. It represents a huge leap in technology compared to the 9S calibers before it.

For starters, while still maintaining its high-beat frequency of 36,600 or 5Hz, it delivers an extended power reserve of 80 hours (compared to 55 hours before). This is thanks to the new twin barrel architecture, allowing the watch to be taken off the wrist for an entire weekend without any need for rewinding on Monday.

The Caliber 9SA5 automatic winding movement also debuts Grand Seiko’s Dual Impulse Escapement. This is a clever mechanism that allows the power from the escape wheel to be transferred directly to the balance. What does this mean exactly? Well ultimately, it allows the movement to use less power transfer to counter the increased vibration rate of the balance. In turn, it improves the overall accuracy of the movement.

Additionally, according to Grand Seiko, the movement is adjusted to six positions rather than five like a standard chronometer. Again, this guarantees increased accuracy for use in the real world. The watch’s accuracy is rated at -3 to +5 a day, which again trumps COSC’s standard of -4 to +6.

As well as acting the part, the Caliber 9SA5 of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 is a pleasure to view through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. Those of you familiar with Grand Seiko’s 9S movement family might notice that this is one of the biggest calibers in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio.

It fills the entire case back, beautifully showing off its blued screws and 47 jewels through the scratch-resistant glass. You can see the new full balance bridge anchored onto both sides and the stunning striping on the bridges that flow with perfect synchrony.

A Luxury Leather Strap

A feature I was not expecting to enjoy so much on the Grand Seiko SLGH007 is the alligator leather strap. I’m normally more of a metal bracelet watch wearer, but after wearing this model for review, I have a totally new appreciation for high-quality leather like the one featured here.

In this case, it’s a large, almost imposing black alligator leather band with an undeniably luxurious and expensive feel. The leather has been cleverly cut to show the scales symmetrically down the length. There’s also monochromatic stitching, a sheer cut profile on the edges, and a nice smooth calfskin lining embossed with the Grand Seiko logo.

Something you’ll notice straight away about the leather strap here is the quality of the stitching. It’s all too common in the watchmaking world to find poorly put-together leather straps. This is not the case with the Grand Seiko SLGH007. The stitching is perfect and it’s clear a lot of time has been spent to make sure this strap not only looks the part but feels it too.

As mentioned, the case of the SLGH007 isn’t the smallest, but the leather strap, once worn for a longer period of time, will no doubt soften up and make the watch even more wearable. Finally, we can’t talk about the strap without mentioning the buckle. I’ve always applauded Grand Seiko for their buckles, and again, the buckle here is crafted by Grand Seiko themselves.

It’s engineered from the same 950 platinum as the case and has an innovative twin trigger release that opens the expansive folding mechanism. There’s also lovely blasted and polished finishing on the GS logo situated on the clasp.

I appreciate that Grand Seiko has used platinum on the buckle here. It’s all too often watch brands use 18ct white gold on the strap of a platinum watch, simply because they already have white gold buckles in stock. So, well done Grand Seiko.

On-Wrist Experience

Wearing the Grand Seiko SLGH007 has been an absolute pleasure, and I’ll be honest, it wasn’t an easy watch to give back. I was a little dubious at first due to the sizing. It’s clear this is a little larger than your typical dress watch, with a 40mm width and 11.7mm height, and when you pair that with my relatively small five-and-a-half-inch wrists, it sounds like a recipe for disaster.

But instead, it was the total opposite. Sure, it was a large watch for me, but when the level of craftsmanship is this impressive, I want something big and bold for everyone to see.

One of my favorite features includes the finishing of the case. The contrast between the hairline brushing and the Zaratsu polishing is breathtaking and makes this watch sparkle almost like a gemstone.

Equally, I couldn’t take my eyes away from the dial, and I found myself constantly distracted by the color-changing texture. It’s also nice knowing there’s a story behind the cedar-inspired finish, one that perfectly encapsulates the history of Grand Seiko.

Finally, I have nothing bad to say about the Caliber 9SA5 movement. The entire mechanism ran as smoothly as expected during my time with the SLGH007. I noticed little to no deviations in accuracy, and the hacking seconds function was a nice touch when I needed to change the hour without compromising the seconds. The 80-hour power reserve was very useful, and I can imagine this being a perfect weekday work watch for many, keeping on time even when it’s off the wrist over the weekend.

Price & Availability

Somehow, despite being released three years ago, there are still some of the 140 limited edition pieces of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 out there. There’s only a few, so keep that in mind if you’re interested! You can purchase it new today for $59,000 at Exquisite Timepieces, or you can find some pre-owned examples starting from around $45,000.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I can confidently say the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 is a stunning watch, one that is a testament to Kintaro Hattori’s original dedication to perfection. It combines some of the world’s most luxurious materials with a unique historical narrative and a spectacularly finished cedar-like dial for the ultimate display of watchmaking excellence. The in-house Caliber 9SA5 movement is also a huge step up from previous 9S calibers, promising higher levels of precision and wear than before.

As mentioned, wearing the SLGH007 was a delightful experience and I would seriously consider purchasing this dress watch for myself one day. It stands out on any wrist size but would best suit people with 6.75-inch wrists or above if a more compact dress watch is desired. One thing I found was that this watch is a conversation starter with watch collectors and normal folk alike. I had so many compliments on the design when I wore it, and even with my five-and-a-half-inch wrists, it was comfortable and wearable.

My only real complaint is how it photographs. Trust me when I say the Grand Seiko SLGH007 looks even better in person. If you get a chance to see one at your local authorized retailer, please do so. It’s a must if you really want to appreciate the level of artistry involved – especially on the dial!

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 Review

Posted on August 22, 2024September 25, 2024 by Charlotte H

Snowflake, Skyflake, Mistflake… It’s no coincidence that Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko has made snow-inspired, finely textured dials one of their many fortes. Their undeniably talented designers and watchmakers take inspiration from the natural beauty surrounding the Grand Seiko factory in Shizukuishi, Japan.

Located in the Iwate Prefecture, the region experiences heavy snowfall during the winter, which provides a serene, snowy landscape that is visible from the factory windows. As I’m sure you can imagine, being surrounded by such a picturesque sight will deeply influence the company’s designers, inspiring them to replicate the delicate, textured beauty of frozen landscapes on their watch dials.

And so, the Grand Seiko “Snowflake”, “Skyflake”, and “Mistflake” watches have come to be. The former is arguably one of the most famous, becoming one of the brand’s best-selling models. But today, it’s actually the Grand Seiko SBGE285 “Mistflake” I’m reviewing. Until recently, it’s a watch I’ve never had the pleasure of trying out, but let me tell you, I’m kicking myself for not seeking it out sooner.

The History of the Grand Seiko SBGE285

The launch of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 watch was rather pivotal for the Japanese watchmaker for several reasons. The novelty was first introduced at Watches & Wonders 2022 alongside an almost identical model, the SBGE283, with a black textured dial. These two designs turned the principles of Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection on its head, bringing a sense of sports elegance to the otherwise simple, understated dress watch family.

Ultimately, Grand Seiko combined the curved profiles, multi-faceted dial hardware, ergonomic bracelets, and in-house movements of the original Evolution 9 with less discreet GMT bezels, large arrow-shaped GMT hands, a power reserve indicator, and, most importantly, a textured dial. To me, it made perfect sense for Grand Seiko to combine two contrasting aesthetics into one powerful yet dressy tool watch. It embodied a timepiece with more aggressive aesthetics yet still one undeniably Grand Seiko.

A Compact Titanium Case

Normally, when someone says “sports watch,” I run away with my wrists behind my back. Why? Sports watches are typically large, and as someone with five-and-a-half-inch wrists, they’re not usually suited to my frame. That said, as soon as I strapped on the Grand Seiko SBGE285, I immediately realized that I needed to stop judging all sports watches based on the genre they’re placed in.

It’s safe to say the SBGE285 has benefited from the Evolution 9 treatment. Wearability is absolutely fantastic, sitting at 41mm wide, just below 14mm tall, and with a length of 47.5mm. These dimensions might sound large, but they are significantly more wearable compared to some of Grand Seiko’s other sports watches (like the 44.5mm wide and 16.8mm tall SBGC275).

The slim bezel and downward-turned lugs help keep the watch nice and low on the wrist. Sure, this is definitely a sports watch, but it’s a sports watch with dress watch dimensions. In my opinion, it’s the best of both worlds.

Another more obvious point is that the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 is engineered from titanium, a material renowned for its extreme lightness. So not only does the sports watch wear well due to its dimensions, but it also feels ghostly on the wrist due to its weight.

Bear in mind that this is a full metal watch with a matching metal bracelet, and it only weighs 122 grams. To put it into perspective, a watch of the same size made from stainless steel weighs almost 200 grams.

The high-intensity titanium, otherwise known as grade 5 titanium, is also finished to an insanely high standard. If you’re someone familiar with Grand Seiko, you’ll know this is nothing new. But if you’re someone new to the GS family, you are in for a treat. Grand Seiko are professionals when it comes to case finishing, and the techniques used on SBGE285 are proof of that.

There are sharp facets to separate the case sides and middle, as well as a beautifully curved case top that flows downwards with the lugs. The sides are also brushed, adding further contrast to the polished bevels running down the sides of the case.

As for the bezel, the same combination of finishes is utilized. The top is brushed and decorated with a black-colored 24-hour scale, while the sides are beautifully polished. The bezel is stepped and fixed and works alongside the black central GMT hand on the dial to aid and enable the second time zone functionality. The SBGE285 is a sports watch, so it promises a 100-meter water resistance, helped by the screw-down crown positioned at 3 o’clock.

The way the crown is integrated here into the side of the case is very impressive. Rather than having separate crown guards, Grand Seiko has extended the case out to create a seamless way to protect the crown. We’re also warranted box-shaped sapphire crystal glass on top with anti-reflective treatment on the underside for easy legibility of the dial, as well as sapphire crystal glass for the case back.

A Mist-Inspired Dial

As we’ve come to know from any Grand Seiko “Flake” watch, the dial is where much of the Japanese watchmaker’s design prowess shines. While the GS Snowflake has a more obvious grained finish, the Grand Seiko “Mistflake” SBGE285 opts for a subtle but still striking textured dial. Once again, it’s a finely executed display inspired by nature, this time echoing the frosty mist that surrounds the mountains of Nagano, the home of Spring Drive, in winter.

In images, the watch appears to have a dark, almost anthracite dial color, but in person, it’s a lot lighter than I expected. The off-white, light gray hue is actually better, in my opinion. It almost perfectly matches the shade of the high-intensity titanium utilized on the bracelet and case, creating this almost seamless, monochromatic profile.

The dial is accentuated by faceted and applied indices and dauphine-style hands for the hours, minutes, and seconds. All of the hardware incorporates slithers of lume, appearing white in the daylight but green in the dark.

Grand Seiko isn’t normally talked about for its use of lume, but in the case of the Grand Seiko SBGE285, I was pleasantly surprised. The lume glows brighter than I anticipated, and I particularly like the fact that while the main hardware glows green, the blackened, arrow-tipped GMT hand glows blue.

Adding to the SBGE285’s sporty aesthetic is the power reserve indicator located between the 7 and 8 o’clock marker. This is a controversial feature for many Grand Seiko aficionados, and I’ll be honest: it’s a complication I’ve never found necessary.

That said, it does suit the sporty personality of the Grand Seiko “Mistflake” better than some of the other models I’ve witnessed it on. Like the Grand Seiko logo at 12 and the “Spring Drive GMT” lettering at 6 o’clock, the power reserve indicator is printed directly onto the surface of the dial rather than being recessed. There’s also a framed date window taking up position at 3 o’clock.

A Spring Drive Movement

For me, the dial is the strongest argument for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 watch, but I know for many, it’s going to be the Spring Drive movement housed inside. Understandably so, many consider Grand Seiko’s line-up of Spring Drive movements to be some of the most important technological advancements in watch movement history.

These innovative mechanisms use elements of both mechanical watchmaking and modern electronic technology. They combine a traditional mainspring to store energy with an electronic regulator to control the release of energy for high levels of precision.

The Caliber 9R66 used here has become one of Grand Seiko’s most used Spring Drive calibers since its debut in 2006. It comes with a healthy 72-hour power reserve and a superior precision of -/+ 1 second per day or -/+ 15 seconds a month. It also provides a super satisfying sweeping seconds hand and an hour hand that can be adjusted independently from the rest of the hardware to make it all the easier to adjust while traveling.

Finally, the movement is finished to a nice standard. It’s simple but attractive, offering engraved waves across the bridges and rotor, polished screw heads, and a handsome blue engraving of the Grand Seiko logo on the oscillating weight.

A Full Titanium Bracelet

Like the case, the strap on the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 watch is machined entirely from high-intensity titanium. The bracelet is set between 22mm lugs that are drilled and offers a three-link construction. The end links are more prominent than I expected and there’s no tapering on the bracelet which makes it seem rather wide and a little disproportionate to the case.

I would prefer to see the bracelet on a watch like this to offer a little bit of tapering to elevate the overall sophistication of the piece. Plus, some opportunity for micro adjustment on the clasp wouldn’t go amiss, but overall, it is a comfortable design finished to a high standard and there are two half links accompanied with every model for aiding a precise fit. The entirety of the bracelet’s architecture is brushed and completed by a GS-engraved logo on the folding buckle.

On-Wrist Experience

After enjoying the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 watch on my wrist for these past few days, I feel confident in saying this is one of Grand Seiko’s most wearable sports watches. If you’re like me, and you have fairly small wrists, and you typically shy away from sports watches in general, this is one to take a risk on.

Despite its 41mm size, 47.4mm lug-to-lug, and 13.9mm thickness, it wears incredibly well on the wrist. It has a demanding aesthetic, thanks to the busy dial and 24-hour bezel, but it’s still dressy in its appearance. I’d say it would best suit wrist sizes between 6.75 inches and 7.5 inches, although I’d still recommend it to anyone with smaller and larger arms, too.

The dial is breathtaking, in my opinion. The subtly textured finish and off-white color is beautiful and the way it blends together with the darkened hue of the grade 5 titanium case and bracelet is stunning. I’ll also never get bored of the sweeping seconds hand from the Spring Drive movement; it’s just so satisfying and knowing the levels of accuracy you get with technology like this makes wearing the watch all the more enjoyable.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGE285 retails for $8,400 brand new and is available to order from your local authorized dealer including Exquisite Timepieces. It can also be found on the second-hand market for around $5,500. This is a non-limited edition piece, but as to how long it’ll stay in stock is unknown.

Conclusion

There’s very little bad to say about the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285. Sure, the price is a little elevated compared to some of Grand Seiko’s other GMT offerings, but when you consider the full titanium construction and Spring Drive movement, you’re certainly getting plenty of bang for your buck. I will say the bracelet does have some room for improvement, but that could just be me being picky since I’m a lover of a more slender, tapered bracelet design.

Other than that, the SBGE285 is the perfect definition of a go-anywhere-do-anything sports watch. Its technical specifications, including its lightweight titanium housing, 100-meter water resistance, and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, mean this watch will survive pretty much any day-to-day activity. Meanwhile, its high contrast finish, compact dimensions, and finely textured dial make it worthy of slipping under a shirt cuff on those formal occasions.