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Grand Seiko SBGH299 Review – The Snowfall on Mt. Iwate

Posted on September 18, 2024December 8, 2024 by Charlotte H

There’s nothing better than a watch that seems rather simple and timeless in its aesthetic at first but in fact, has a whole lot more to offer upon closer inspection. The beauty of its design lies in its complexity, which can only be appreciated by those who take the time to explore its intricacies, whether that be the meticulous movement inside or the more outward displays of craftsmanship on the case and dial. Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko has a number of designs that fall into this category, and one I’ve yet to truly explore up close is the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299.

History of the Grand Seiko SBGH299

If you’re already a fan of Grand Seiko, it’ll come as no surprise to you that model SBGH299 is inspired by an aspect of its country of origin. Most Grand Seiko watches take inspiration from their Japanese heritage in one way or the other, whether it be a dial color evoking the color of snow on a particular mountain seen outside Grand Seiko Studio’s Shizukuishi or a texture imitating the fabric of traditional Japanese attire.

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is one of the same. It’s a watch that is beautifully modeled after the look and texture of fresh snowfall in the winter mountain scenery seen outside the company’s factory windows. It was released alongside several other new 44GS Hi-Beat references back in early 2023, and although it was nothing groundbreaking in terms of technology and design, the collection made sure one of their best-selling models was kept up-to-date and refreshed.

The collection debuted five references in total, all replacing five existing models with some minor changes made to the case, bracelet, and dials. The series includes reference SBGH301 with a dark gray dial, SBGJ263 with a silver GMT dial, SBGJ265 also with GMT function on a black dial, and SBGJ267, a boutique-only edition with a blue GMT display. Then of course, there’s SBGH299, the model we’re reviewing today, a classic time-only model with an off-white dial.

An Ever-Brilliant Case

Like its brothers and sisters in the Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat collection, the ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 model is designed after the iconic 44GS case. What is this? It’s a 1967 Grand Seiko reference that was pivotal in shaping the brand’s style and establishing its so-called Grammar of Design. The design philosophy emphasizes simplicity, precision, and beauty, with the cases often boasting flat surfaces and crisp, sharp angles for a clean and refined look. Similarly, they use their famous Zaratsu polishing technique to achieve a distortion-free mirror-like surface.

One look at the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch, and it’s clear these principles have been applied to the case. The almost barrel-shaped architecture has multiple facets and finishes that allow it to catch the light beautifully. The strong, angular shoulders are vertically brushed for contrast against the Zaratsu polished flat surfaces found on the bezel, case sides, and lugs. It’s a beautiful example of how light play can make all the difference in how a watch wears.

The case of the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch is masterfully engineered from a material the Japanese watchmaker calls “Ever-Brilliant Steel.” It’s a high-grade, proprietary stainless steel alloy known for its exceptional durability, corrosion resistance, and almost bright white appearance. Its robustness is essential, of course, but the bright white finish of the metal is its standout feature. It gives the watch a more luxurious and refined look compared to traditional stainless steel watches.

As for dimensions, the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is a relatively average-sized watch with a 40mm diameter, 13.3mm height, and a lug-to-lug of 46.2mm. I have to say, its lug-to-lug feels a little larger than that, in my opinion, and I think that’s predominantly down to the male end links (possibly one of the only features of this watch I would change – but more on that later.)

The watch arrives with dual-curved sapphire crystal glass on the front, treated with anti-reflective coating for a distortion-free view of the dial. The glass makes up much of the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299’s thickness but does add a touch of vintage flair to the design. The case back also presents sapphire crystal glass, with a knurled pattern surrounding the round insert, drawing your eyes to the movement exposed in the middle. Like the case back, the crown is screwed down and decorated with the GS logo in relief. It provides a healthy water-resistant rating of 100 meters.

A Dial Worthy of a Close Up

You need to trust me when I say this is one of those watches where press shots and online imagery of the watch do not do the dial justice. When the light hits it just right, the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch showcases an absolutely beautiful sunburst pattern that has an almost silver-cream finish to it. It’s almost champagne in some lights before turning a cooler shade of silver in others. It isn’t just your standard sunburst pattern, either. It’s incredibly complex and looks almost like fur or the barbs of a feather.

I’m a huge fan of the texture here. It’s incredibly subtle, which to me, makes it all the more magical. It’s one of those watches you have to see up close to appreciate the complexities behind it, and if you’re like me and you prefer a watch with some hidden intricacies, you’ll love this, too. If it was me, I’d have taken out the date window placed at 3 o’clock so more attention could be placed on the dial, but I understand many watch wearers require the convenience of date complication and so, there it must remain.

Like the silvered border of the date window, the hardware of the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is predominantly silver. The hour and minute hands are sharp and sword-shaped, paired with the faceted and brightly polished oblong hour markers sitting at each 5-minute interval. The minute track is printed in black, and the seconds hand, left perfectly straight and uniform, is blued for a beautiful contrast against its creamy silver backdrop.

A High-Beat Movement

Unsurprisingly for a watch named the Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’, reference SBGH299 is powered by one of Grand Seiko’s well-known 9S hi-beat calibers. The exact movement in question is the Caliber 9S85 which beats at an outstanding rate of 36,000vph or 5Hz. It has 37 jewels and promises simple time and date functionality. Be aware it doesn’t have a GMT complication like some of the other references in the 2023 collection.

Like all Grand Seiko watches, the caliber is tested to the highest standards, beating even the regulations required by COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). It has been adjusted in six different positions and tested for an accuracy of -3/+5 seconds per day. Much of its reliability comes from its Spron 610 hairspring, which Grand Seiko argues offers three times more resistance to electromagnetic frequencies and two times the shock resistance of the previous generation Spron hairsprings.

We’re also promised a healthy 55-hour power reserve and when off the wrist, the movement is worth being admired thanks to its beautiful finishing. The use of Zaratsu polishing on the movement’s plates and bridges creates a mirror-like finish that works incredibly well with the finishing on the case. Equally, the Geneva stripes on the rotor and perlage on the mainplate add additional visual appeal.

A Full Metal Bracelet

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch arrives on a solid Ever-Brilliant Steel bracelet with three-row links and a beautiful combination of polished and brushed finishing. It has a 19mm lug width which tapers down to 18mm at the folding clasp. The 19mm size is a little awkward for those hoping to find an array of straps to swap this bracelet out with, but its drilled lugs do make it a possibility.

The buckle is a standard Grand Seiko folding clasp that follows suit to the crown and shows off the GS logo in relief. Sadly, there is no micro-adjustment on the bracelet, but there is a half link on both sides, so you should be able to get a pretty snug fit. As mentioned earlier, the strap does include male end links, which is something I’d love to swap out of the design. It makes fitting this model on smaller wrists a little harder as they stick out rather a lot, adding to the overall lug-to-lug width.

On-Wrist Experience

I have to be honest, of all the Grand Seiko watches out there, the ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 has never been one to pique my interest. There’s really no other reason than because the imagery I had seen online didn’t look all that enticing. But I should have known; no Grand Seiko photographs like the real thing. These are watches that have to be seen in person because the beauty is in the details you can only see up close. The subtle textures, the play of light on the dial, the meticulous finishing on the hands, and indices—all these elements come together in a way that photos simply can’t capture.

My favorite feature here has to be the dial. I was not expecting to love the creamy silver color or the finely textured sunburst finish as much as I do. It’s really beautiful, and I love how it changes and evolves in different lights. The case is also beautifully done; it’s a classic shape with a set of easy-to-wear dimensions. I have no doubt those of you looking for a daily beater or a formal dress watch will be happy with how the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 looks on your wrist.

My only irk, and it is a small one, falls to the male end links. The end links do protrude a little from the case, which makes wearing the watch on my five-and-a-half-inch wrists a little difficult. That said, I think this is more down to my distaste for having a small frame rather than the actual size of the watch. It’s worth noting though, that the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ is going to best suit wrists of 6.5 inches or above. Anything above 8 inches and the watch might appear too small.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is available to order new from authorized stockists like Exquisite Timepieces for $6,900. It can also be purchased from second-hand sites for around $4,200. It’s a non-limited edition and since its release in 2023, Grand Seiko has made no mention of removing it from their permanent collection.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is a beautiful watch through and through. In fact, I’d say it’s something of a hidden gem in the Japanese brand’s collection. Online, it doesn’t look like anything overtly special or different, but in person, this is a stunning watch that perfectly embodies the high levels of craftsmanship Grand Seiko is renowned for. The crispness of the Ever-Brilliant Steel case is beautiful, but for me, it’s the dial that takes the cake. The intricate sunray decoration and the rich, creamy silver hue is worth taking an hour out of your day to see in person.

What is a Watch Crystal and Why Does it Matter?

Posted on September 18, 2024October 25, 2024 by Charlotte H

Have you ever wondered what the term “watch crystal” means? Me too. When I see the word crystal, I instantly think of some fancy gemstone. But it has nothing to do with any diamonds or gemstones set on your watch’s case or dial. Instead, watch crystal refers to the type of glass placed above the display, keeping you from accidentally scratching the face of your favorite timepiece.

It’s that transparent cover that protects the dial of the watch. It is usually made from a material like acrylic, mineral glass, or sapphire crystal. It’s a crucial component of your timepiece, even though, in many cases, it’s barely noticeable. Not only does it shield the inner workings from dust, moisture, and the occasional bump, but it also affects the overall look of your watch.

There’s more to watch crystals than you might think. There are a variety of watch crystal types, each with its own pros and cons, plus a myriad of reasons why your watch crystal is vital in the durability of your timepiece. Let us explain…

The Importance of Watch Crystals

I like to think of my watch’s crystal as a shield. It’s a clear cover that sits over the dial, and it’s got a relatively important job to do. Sure, the case material is also super important in determining the look and durability of my watch, but the glass has an equal amount of responsibility.

It keeps those delicate inner workings of the watch safe from everyday wear and debris. I wear my watches all the time: out walking, traveling, and on formal occasions, so I need my watch crystal to protect it against everything. I’m talking scratches, dust, and even the occasional splash of water.

Watch crystal does exactly that; it keeps my watch looking good and ticking smoothly. Without a quality piece of crystal over the dial, my timepiece would be at risk of getting damaged, which is a pricey expense I want to avoid.

The glass also plays a huge role in how your watch looks. You can find domed crystals, flat crystals, and cambered crystals, all giving your watch a sleek and modern finish or more of a classic vintage vibe. There are a number of different watch crystals to choose from, all coming in at different price points too – so your budget will also slightly determine which watch crystal you can get.

Watch Crystal History

Understandably, the materials we have used in the creation of pocket watches and wristwatches have evolved dramatically over the years. That applies to watch crystals, too. Some of the first watches used glass to protect watch dials, often cut from mineral quartz. These early crystals were simple but functional, offering a basic level of protection against dust and damage.

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that acrylic glass emerged as an alternative. The material was a game-changer, as it was lighter and more impact-resistant, making it perfect for those who wanted to wear their watches every day without worry.

Acrylic glass was also a more affordable alternative than crystals made from mineral quartz, so wristwatches became not only more durable but also more accessible to the general public.

During the 1960’s, mineral glass became a common sight on watches. Made by adding various minerals to standard glass, this type of watch crystal offered the crisp look of glass but with improved scratch resistance and clarity.

However, the real breakthrough came just twenty years later, with the introduction of synthetic sapphire crystals in the 1980s. Boasting extreme levels of hardness and scratch resistance, sapphire crystal provided better protection than before, with a crystal-clear view of the dial. This material has allowed watchmakers to create even more refined and durable watches, setting new standards in the creation of modern timepieces.

Most Common Watch Crystal Materials

As history attests, there are a number of different watch crystals suited to protecting our timepieces. Some are favored more than others, but each has its own set of benefits and disadvantages.

Before you go out and choose your next timepiece, it’s good to know the differences between the most common watch crystals so you have a complete understanding of the levels of durability, scratch resistance, and readability of the design.

Sapphire Crystal

Personally, I consider sapphire crystal glass to be the crème de la crème of watch crystals. It’s one of the newest materials used for watch glass and as such is considered the most durable and scratch resistant. As its name suggests, it’s made from synthetic sapphire and boasts a hardness second only to diamonds – the strongest material in the world.

As someone who tends to bump my watch against things, sapphire crystal glass is the perfect choice for me. It keeps the lens clear, durable, and my watches look new for years.

However, with these high levels of durability comes a higher price tag. Sapphire crystal watches are more expensive to produce, which does mean they typically retail for more than those equipped with the two materials mentioned below.

Another thing to keep in mind is that while sapphire is highly resistant to scratching, it is not immune to shattering. A hard knock in the wrong place could cause the sapphire crystal to crack. It’s difficult to do, but not impossible, so keep that in mind.

The other thing I love about sapphire crystal is how it looks. There’s something about the crispness of the crystal that gives the watches it adorns a luxurious feel. It also boasts a beautiful level of clarity, so reading the time, date, and any other complications is effortless – especially when the sapphire crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating.

Mineral Crystal

Mineral crystal strikes a nice balance between durability and cost, making it a popular choice for many watch collectors. This type of crystal is made from standard glass that’s been chemically treated to enhance its hardness and scratch resistance. While it’s not as tough as sapphire, mineral crystal does do a pretty good job at resisting scratches from everyday use.

One of the main advantages of mineral crystal is that it’s more affordable than sapphire, which means watches with mineral crystals are generally more accessible to a wider audience. It’s also less likely to shatter compared to sapphire, making it a great option if you’re a bit clumsy. However, annoyingly, if you do manage to scratch your mineral crystal watch, those marks are there to stay, as they can’t be buffed out.

Acrylic Crystal

Finally, acrylic crystal, also known as plexiglass, is another popular watch crystal. It’s easily the most lightweight and affordable option out of the three, making it perfect for those restricted to a particular budget.

It’s made from a type of plastic rather than glass, so consequently, you can expect it to be resistant to shattering. For this reason, you’ll often find acrylic crystal on sports watches or even vintage pieces.

One of the coolest things about acrylic crystal is that any scratches it picks up can often be polished out with a specialized cleaner and a bit of effort. This makes it a great choice if you want a watch that can handle a few bumps and bruises without looking worse for wear.

However, it’s worth noting that acrylic is more prone to scratching than both sapphire and mineral crystals, so it will require more maintenance to keep it looking crisp and clear.

How to Distinguish Between Crystal Materials

When you know what to look for, identifying the type of crystal on your watch can be pretty straightforward. Each material has its own set of characteristics, both in its feel and appearance.

I’ve always found acrylic crystal to be the easiest to spot since, at the end of the day, this is basically a form of plastic rather than glass. It is most commonly found on vintage watches since it was the only watch crystal material until the 1960s, as well as sports watches since these designs need to be highly shatterproof.

Acrylic crystal typically has a slight domed appearance, adding to its vintage charm, and when you tap on it, it often feels and sounds like plastic – which makes sense since that’s basically what it is. This material would suit someone who enjoys a more laid-back style or even the nostalgic look of vintage timepieces. It’s also a good choice for anyone needing something affordable and shatterproof.

Mineral crystal is a step up in terms of scratch resistance, so it is commonly used in mid-priced watches. It’s usually flat, although it can sometimes be found in slightly domed designs.

Unlike acrylic, it has a glass-like feel and appearance and is often thicker than your average watch glass. They tend to have a clear, clean look. It’s perfect for someone who wants a nice middle ground between durability and affordability.

Finally, there’s sapphire crystal. This watch crystal is the go-to for luxury and high-end watches. All the biggest luxury watch brands use this material since it has high levels of scratch resistance and clarity. It does look and feel luxurious. It’s hard to explain exactly why; it just does. Its exceptional clarity certainly helps, and it feels like a solid material when you tap it.

Because of its premium feel, sapphire crystal watches are coveted by those who value both style and substance. As I mentioned, sapphire crystal is my go-to since I tend to knock my watches regularly. It’s a material that holds up under pressure extremely well, and truthfully, it just looks incredible.

When Does a Watch Crystal Need Replacement?

It’s not uncommon for watch crystals to get damaged. At the end of the day, it’s there to protect your watch from accidental knocks and damage. And thankfully, it’s much easier and cheaper to replace the glass than it is to replace an entire dial or movement.

It’s not uncommon to scratch, crack, or chip your watch crystal, especially if it’s one of the more affordable alternatives like acrylic or mineral glass. If the damage is severe enough, it will likely compromise your ability to read the dial and may even allow dust, moisture, and other debris from entering the dial. This can potentially harm the inner workings of your timepiece, so it’s important you get it fixed as soon as you can.

It’s certainly possible to change a watch crystal on your own, but please know it’s not an easy task – at least for us non-certified watchmakers! It requires precision and the right set of tools and can be a delicate process, especially if you’re using higher-end materials like sapphire crystal. You’ll need to carefully remove the old crystal without damaging the watch case and install the new one. The glass must sit perfectly flush inside the case above the dial, ensuring a tight seal to maintain water resistance.

If it were me, I’d leave a job like this to a professional. It’s not worth the risk, as an improperly installed watch crystal could seriously damage the dial, case, and movement. Exquisite Timepieces offers a fantastic watch repair service, so you feel reassured the job is done properly. They use only the best watchmakers, sending your watch to authorized service facilities where experts work on your timepiece with precision and expertise.

Conclusion

Hopefully you’re now feeling confident in all things watch crystal related. This protective component ultimately acts like a shield for your timepiece, protecting its face from scratches, dust, water, and all the little bumps we throw at it.

You’ll most commonly find acrylic, mineral or sapphire crystal on the market, with each type boasting its own perks, allowing you to prioritize durability, style and cost the way you need. While the aesthetics of your watch crystal is important, be sure to choose one that best suits your lifestyle and budget.

What is a Watch Crown and Why it is important

What is a Watch Crown and Why is it important?

Posted on September 18, 2024October 25, 2024 by Charlotte H

Have you recently read the term “watch crown” as part of a timepiece’s specifications or review and wondered what this means? Or have you just found yourself staring at your watch, speculating what that little knob on the side is?

Trust me, you’re not alone. We’ve all wondered what this component is called at some point. This charming feature is called a watch crown, and it’s not just for show.

A watch crown is the often small, rounded button-like feature on your watch case’s side. Its primary job is to help wind the watch – if your watch has a mechanical movement – and to set the time on the dial.

This information might be nothing new to you, but did you know that crowns offer more than just winding and setting? In today’s blog, we will be exploring all the intricacies of a watch crown, including the different types of watch crowns out there and why they are so important in the construction of your timepiece.

Why are Crowns so Important?

The humble watch crown might seem like a small, insignificant detail at first, but it actually provides a long list of benefits to your timepiece. Usually found on the right-hand side of the case but also sometimes positioned on the left (we’re looking at you U-Boat), the watch crown is predominantly used for setting the time and date on your watch.

By popping it out to its correct position, you can turn the crown to adjust the hands and calendar. And, if your watch has additional complications—like a moon phase or GMT—the crown handles those settings too.

If you have a mechanical watch, the crown is also essential in winding the movement. Unlike quartz watches that are powered by an electronic battery, mechanical movements rely on a mainspring to store energy. When you turn the crown, it tightens this mainspring, gradually releasing energy that powers the watch.

Moreover, the watch crown plays a protective role in the functionality of your timepiece. Some crowns have a screw-down feature, creating a tight seal between the crown and case. This helps to protect the watch, and the movement inside, from things like water, dust, and dirt. It’s a particularly vital feature for those wanting a watch to use for diving or outdoor adventures.

History of Watch Crowns

In the early days of watchmaking history, people had yet to experience the joy of wearing a wristwatch. Instead, they typically kept a pocket watch in their pocket and held it onto their clothing with a chain.

With their manual winding movements, these devices required winding once or twice a day to keep their time. But they didn’t have a crown that could do that. Instead, the owner would have to carry around a small winding key, which was placed into a small hole in the side of the case. They would then have to turn the key to wind their pocket watch.

This was the case until the early 19th century when a clever chap named Adolphe Nicole introduced the first watch crown. His invention replaced those fiddly keys with a much simpler, integrated knob on the side of the watch case. It was a revolutionary innovation, allowing watch owners to wind their timepieces up on the go – with no more risk of losing those small winding keys!

Ever since, watch crowns have evolved to become more than just a winding tool. In the 20th century, watchmakers started adding features like screw-down crowns for better water resistance, and the integration of more complex complications like GMT and perpetual calendar allowed crowns to manipulate these features, too.

The look of watch crowns has also changed over the years. They were once large and onion-shaped but have now adapted to become smaller and sleeker. Their style is tailored to different types of watches, ensuring the crown not only serves its practical purpose but also complements the overall aesthetic of the watch.

Types of Watch Crowns

When it comes to watch crowns, there’s more variety than you might think! Each type of crown has its own unique set of features and serves specific functions, adding both style and practicality to your timepiece. Let’s take a look at some of the most popular types of watch crowns you might find…

Push-Pull Crown

Possibly the most common and straightforward type of watch crown you’ll encounter is the push-pull crown. As its name suggests, it uses a simple pull and push mechanism. To set the date or wind the movement, you simply pull the crown outward – often to different positions for each function.

Then once the movement is fully wound and the time and date are set correctly, you push the crown back in to secure the settings. Push-pull crowns are found in most everyday watches, especially dress watches that don’t require high levels of water resistance.

Screw-Down Crown

Most often found on diving watches and adventure watches, the screw-down crown arrives with a clever threaded mechanism that literally allows the crown to be screwed into the watch case. This creates a tight seal against the two components so you can feel assured of enhanced water resistance and protection against dust and debris.

To adjust the crown or manually wind the movement, you would unscrew the crown before screwing it back in. Screw-down crowns are essential for watches designed for extreme conditions, especially diver’s watches that need complete protection against water pressure.

Onion-Shaped Crowns

While the two types of watch crowns above reflect the functionality of the watch, the next few crowns are named as such for their looks. The onion-shaped crown is exactly what its name suggests: a crown that looks a lot like an onion.

It has an almost bulbous appearance reminiscent of the shape of some of the first watch crowns. As such, they are a popular sight on vintage-inspired watches. They add a real nostalgic charm to watches, plus their large size and knurled detailing make them easy to grip and adjust.

Crowns with Cabochon

Cabochon crowns are a popular choice for those that want their watch to look elegant and stylish. It’s a style that sees the tip of the crown set with a cabochon gemstone, a gemstone that is smooth and rounded for a sophisticated look.

The Cartier Tank is one of the world’s most famous watches known for boasting a cabochon crown on the right hand side of its rectangular case. The cabochon is usually made from materials like sapphire, ruby, or onyx and not only enhances the watch’s aesthetics but also provides a tactile, satisfying feel.

Recessed Crowns

The recessed crown is a type of crown that is fairly new to the watch world, spotted on modern watches. Unlike traditional crowns that protrude from the watch case, these knobs are embedded or set into a small cavity within the case. They are designed to enhance protection, so you are less likely to damage the crown should you knock it against a hard surface.

Plus, it also helps to maintain a watch’s water resistance and gives the case a more streamlined appearance. You’ll most likely see recessed crowns in sports watches where durability and sleek design are key.

When Does a Watch Crown Need Replacement?

Hopefully, your watch crown will never need replacing, but if it becomes damaged, hard to operate, or the water resistance is compromised, it may require a replacement. Common signs of a broken watch crown include difficulty winding the watch, problems setting the time, or noticeable wear and tear on the exterior of the crown.

Replacing a watch crown yourself isn’t an easy task, as it’s an intricate process that requires a steady hand and plenty of precision. The method involves removing the old crown, selecting the correct replacement, and then carefully ensuring it fits perfectly against the case and attaches to the movement to ensure all functions operate correctly. It often requires specialized tools and expertise to avoid damaging the watch and the movement inside.

For the best results, we advise you to leave crown replacement to professional watchmakers. At Exquisite Timepieces, we offer a specialized watch repair service where we make sure only the top watchmakers handle and repair your timepiece. We securely package each watch and send it directly to authorized service facilities to ensure it’s treated with the utmost care.

Conclusion

If you couldn’t tell, we think the crown is a bit of a hidden gem. It may seem like a small, barely noticeable part of a watch, but it plays a critical role in its functionality. From winding the movement to setting the time to shielding the watch against water, dust, and debris, the crown is essential for your watch’s performance and longevity.

And given its importance, it’s equally important to make sure you take care of your watch crown. If you suspect any damage or issues, we highly recommend having it inspected immediately to prevent any further harm coming to your precious timepiece.

What is a Chronometer?

Posted on September 18, 2024October 25, 2024 by Charlotte H

The world of watches can be a confusing place. There’s a whole bunch of terminology that can be puzzling even to the most experienced watch collector, let alone those of us completely new to timepieces. From tourbillons to tachymeters, perpetual calendars to power reserves and bezels to balance bridges, know that it’s okay to feel overwhelmed by all these different terms.

I guarantee all of us, at some point in our watch collecting journey, have had to Google what these words mean. And I’d bet my money that one of the most frequently asked questions is: “what is a chronometer?”

Think of a chronometer watch as an overachiever, the clever one in school. It’s a watch that has passed a super strict set of accuracy tests, typically by an official body known as COSC in Switzerland (although there are other bodies we’ll get to shortly).

The watch has basically been to a boot camp to ensure it is super precise; the movement is tested in different positions and temperatures to ensure it keeps near-perfect time. People choose chronometer watches when they want undeniable reliability, whether that’s an essential lifestyle requirement or just a cool thing to boast about with their friends.

History of Chronometers

Like most inventions, the chronometer was created out of need. During the 18th century, a serious issue faced by sailors traveling out at sea was their inability to accurately determine their longitude, making navigation tricky and often dangerous.

Enter John Harrison, a British clockmaker who, in 1735, created the first marine chronometer. His invention was a game changer, allowing sea-dwellers to navigate the ocean with incredible levels of accuracy. It was kind of like giving sailors a GPS long before satellites were even a thing.

Over the years, chronometers got smaller and more precise, eventually moving from ship decks to wrists. Chronometer watches became popular during the early 20th century as the demand for accurate timekeeping skyrocketed. It was here when organizations like COSC were founded, created with the aim of certifying chronometer watches under a strict set of standards. Now, only the most precise timepieces earn the title “chronometer”.

Now, with GPS systems aboard, we don’t need chronometers to set sail, but the precision of a chronometer wristwatch is still necessary and impressive. They have become symbols of reliability and craftsmanship, with typically only the finest watchmakers in the world able to create chronometer-certified watches.

Chronometer Certification Standards

There are various chronometer certifications, each with its own testing method. So, if you’re looking for a chronometer watch for yourself, it’s good to know which certification your watch has passed. Even some watch brands, known for crafting their own in-house movements, have developed their own chronometer certifications to show their dedication to precision and craftsmanship. Let’s look at some of the best-known chronometer certifications and what is involved in each…

COSC Chronometer

The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, abbreviated to COSC, is the most common standard of chronometer certification. The Swiss establishment was the first institution to certify watches as chronometers, demanding the best in accuracy and craftsmanship. Following its founding in 1973, it still demands a very specific set of specifications from a watch to earn its prestigious certification. Those that do pass receive a coveted COSC certificate.

Watches that are assessed under COSC undergo a series of tests over 15 days. These assess a movement’s precision under different conditions, including temperature variations (8°C, 23°C, and 38°C) and positional changes (like crown up, down, and horizontal). The watch must maintain a daily rate within a tight range of -4 to +6 seconds to pass.

METAS Chronometer

METAS Chronometer certification is another respected standard, but one set by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) in collaboration with Omega. It goes beyond traditional chronometer testing to ensure even higher levels of precision and durability. To achieve this certification, a watch must pass COSC certification before undergoing additional tests conducted by METAS.

These tests include exposure to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, different temperatures, and even different water pressure levels to verify its robustness. Additionally, the watch’s accuracy is assessed in six different positions and at two different power levels—fully wound and with a 33% reserve. METAS-certified chronometers guarantee a daily precision of 0 to +5 seconds.

Superlative Chronometer

Superlative Chronometer certification is exclusively awarded by Rolex to its own timepieces. Like METAS, it goes beyond the standard of COSC chronometer testing, ensuring that every movement meets Rolex’s own stringent standard. Again, every movement must first pass COSC certification before then being handled by Rolex’s professional watchmakers, who take the fully assembled watch – not just movement – in-house for further testing.

These tests include placing the watch in multiple positions and in varying conditions such as freezing, hot and magnetic environments. They also test for waterproofness, power reserve, and automatic winding proficiency. To receive Superlative Chronometer certification, the watch must maintain a daily rate of -2 to +2 seconds, making Rolex Superlative Chronometers some of the most accurate in the world.

Grand Seiko Special Standard

As its name suggests, the Grand Seiko Special Standard is a certification exclusive to Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko. Hoping to prove Japanese watchmaking can be just as precise and reliable as Swiss, the brand has created their own certification even stricter than COSC.

To receive the Grand Seiko Special Standard certification, a movement must undergo rigorous testing for 17 days across six different positions and at three temperature settings. The movements are also tested in both horizontal and vertical orientations. The daily deviation allowed is between -3 to +5 seconds, exceeding the standards set by COSC.

German Chronometer Standard

The German Chronometer Standard is a certification similar to Switzerland’s COSC but one that is dedicated to testing the accuracy of German-made watches like those from Glashutte Original. The standard is found under certification DIN 8319, with specifications equivalent to those of the ISO 3159.

It values a series of tests over 15 days, with the movement tested in five positions and at two different temperatures. Like COSC, it must also maintain a daily rate of accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds. However, unlike its Swiss counterpart, the German Chronometer Standard involves testing the fully cased watch, not just the movement.

Patek Philippe Seal

Patek Philippe also has its own chronometer certification unique to them. In 2009, they established a seal that represents the rigorous standards of their movement manufacture, once again going above and beyond the standards set out by COSC.

To earn the Patek Philippe Seal, a watch must maintain a daily accuracy of -3 to +2 seconds in several positions and at different temperatures. Additionally, the watch’s durability, finishing, and overall craftsmanship are examined, so you’re guaranteed some of the finest levels of watchmaking in the world.

Qualité Fleurier Standard

The Qualité Fleurier Standard, also sometimes known as the FQF Quality seal, is a certification process for mechanical watches made entirely in Switzerland. This means every part of the watch must be 100% Swiss-made.

Then, the movement must pass the tests of the COSC, followed by the FQF’s additional tests, including accuracy checks in different positions and temperatures, ensuring it maintains a daily deviation of -0 to +5 seconds.

Chronometers vs Chronographs

Chronometer and chronograph are two watch terms that are often confused with each other – understandably so since both begin with “chrono”. But in fact, chronometers and chronographs are totally different.

As we now know, a chronometer is all about precision; it’s a watch that has been officially certified to keep time super accurate, passing rigorous tests. A chronograph, however, is a watch built with a stopwatch function, allowing you to measure elapsed time with separate sub-dials.

Fun fact: you can have a chronometer chronograph, a watch awarded chronometer certification equipped with a handy stopwatch complication.

Popular Chronometer Watches on Exquisite Timepieces

If you’re into precision timepieces, chronometers are where it’s at. At Exquisite Timepieces, we have a number of exceptional chronometer watches for you to enjoy. Here are some of the most popular, as rated by our customers:

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

Known as one of Omega’s Master Chronometer watches, a family of timepieces certified by METAS, this Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm promises incredible levels of accuracy and reliability. The movement, with its co-axial escapement, is highly anti-magnetic and promises a healthy power reserve of 60 hours.

It’s also a beautiful watch externally, featuring a 39mm stainless steel case with a scratch-proof fluted bezel and 100 meter water resistance. The dial is the star of the show for me, though, colored in blue with an unusual star-shaped dome finish set with Super-LumiNova infilled hands and indexes.

Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC Silver Dial (ref. FC-303S3NH26B)

Possibly one of the most affordable manufacturers of chronometer watches, Frederique Constant has truly reached their goal of making luxury watchmaking accessible to everyone. For less than $2,500, they offer a COSC-certified full-metal sports watch with their Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC Silver Dial model, powered by the Caliber FC-303 with a 38-hour power reserve.

It, too, has a 39mm stainless steel case, but one with a sporty, integrated architecture that flows into the brushed and polished H-link bracelet. The dial is crisp white and uniquely embossed with a globe motif across the center.

Grand Seiko SLGH021

Grand Seiko has a number of impressive in-house movements worth mentioning, but their Caliber 9SA5, found inside the Grand Seiko SLGH021 Limited Edition, is one of their Grand Seiko Special Standard movements. With a daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day, a power reserve of 80 hours, and a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, it becomes one of the most impressive chronometer movements on the market.

The watch is also absolutely breathtaking, featuring an intricately detailed, mosaic-like mint green dial inspired by the colors of the Genbi Valley landscape and a 40mm wide Ever-Brilliant steel case polished using the brand’s famous Zaratsu technique.

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer (ref. 1-58-01-02-05-30)

Offering a more traditional aesthetic, one that harks back to some of the world’s first chronometers, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer watch is powered by the in-house Caliber 58-01, a manual winding movement with a 44-hour power reserve and chronometer certification.

The movement is housed within a luxurious 18ct rose gold case, measuring to 42mm wide and just 12.6mm tall, strapped to the wrist by a dark brown alligator leather strap. The dial is silver-grainé and decorated with blued hands, a black railroad chapter ring, an oversized date window and timeless Roman numerals.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante (ref. PFC905-1020001-100182)

Finally, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is an exceptional chronometer watch with an opulent integrated case and bracelet, guilloche dial, and GMT complication. The soft lines of the case are engineered from stainless steel, while the bezel, with its detailed knurled finish, is machined from 950 platinum.

It sits on the wrist at 40mm wide and 10.7mm thick, secured by a three-row link bracelet with brushed and polished finishing. The blue grain d’Orge hand-guilloché dial presents two skeletonised hands for the hours and minutes and a rose gold hand for the GMT, all powered by the chronometer certified Caliber PF051.

Conclusion

We hope you now have a solid understanding of what a chronometer watch is and why these timepieces are so highly coveted. If precision and accuracy aren’t high on your list of priorities, a chronometer might be a little wasted on you.

However, if you value precision and reliability, especially if you have a job or lifestyle that requires high levels of timekeeping accuracy, then a chronometer watch would be a worthy investment. Or maybe you’re just like me, and you simply appreciate the intricate technology that goes on inside these watches. If so, a chronometer watch will no doubt enhance your daily life too.

Seiko SNE573 Review: What Makes this Solar Diver Stand Out?

Posted on September 17, 2024December 8, 2024 by Charlotte H

I think most people familiar with Seiko are already well-versed in this Japanese watchmaker’s value proposition. This is a brand that has made it their bread-and-butter to create reliable and robust watches with beautiful dials and easy-to-use technology. And of all their collections, the Seiko Prospex line has become their flagship, offering durable diving instruments worthy of both land and water. But when there’s such a large number of models on offer, how do you know where to start?

I’ve been fortunate to get hands-on experience with several Seiko Prospex watches during my life, but I have never had the chance to test out one of their solar-powered models.

I sometimes forget that Seiko offers solar-powered watches because I’m often so entranced by their in-house mechanical movements, but these designs claim to be equally impressive, requiring no rewinding or battery replacement, powered entirely by natural and artificial light.

So, when it came to choosing which solar Seiko watch I wanted to test, I went straight for their most classic: the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573.

About The Seiko SNE573

Why would I choose the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 out of them all? Well, a quick look and it’s clear this is a watch that’s going to be easy to wear.

It’s a classic black dial with a black bezel and stainless steel cased design with fantastic dimensions to suit a vast majority of wrists. It also utilizes one of Seiko’s most used in-house solar-powered movements, the Caliber V147, a movement I’m desperate to see live up to my expectations.

It’s also a watch with plenty of diving capability; it has a 200-meter water resistance, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and Seiko’s glow-in-the-dark Lumibrite across the dial. And yet, despite all this, there’s something beautifully timeless about its execution.

I wasn’t sure if it was the shape of the steel case or the simplicity of its monochromatic design, but it felt like a watch I could wear just as effortlessly on land as I could in water.

It’s not a brand new watch by any means, having launched in 2021, but the Seiko SNE573 is still a permanent addition to its collection, which, to me, suggests it’s a watch that has proved some level of popularity.

So, with all these things in mind, I became curious if, when on the wrist, these factors come together to prove the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 as one that lives up to the high expectations myself and Seiko have set for themselves.

History of Seiko Solar Dive Watches

Understandably, solar-powered watches haven’t been around for all that long, first introduced during the 1970’s.

Seiko was one of the first brands to launch their own, with the Seiko 0634-5000 becoming something of a game changer for the industry as it allowed those who frequented the outdoors the convenience of never having to rewind a mechanical movement or swap out the battery for a standard quartz watch. Instead, it harnessed the power of the sun to keep the hands around the dial ticking.

It wasn’t really until the 1990s, however, that Seiko became well-known for their solar watches. It was here when they merged their solar-powered tech with their legendary Prospex line, creating a reliable diving watch with underwater durability and the endless power of sunlight.

Over the years, their solar dive watches have evolved – but only slightly – to incorporate the latest styles and technology. We’re now seeing more advanced solar movements, increased water-resistant ratings, and updated designs that are both functional and fashionable. The 2021 Seiko SNE573 is one of the same, promising all the essential features you’d want in a solar-powered dive watch.

Seiko SNE573: In-Depth Review

Now it’s time to get hands-on with the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573. As I mentioned in the introduction, there was a reason I wanted to try this watch specifically. Just from looks, it appears to be an easy-to-wear diver’s model for most occasions.

Plus, the spec suggests it would be worthy of the wrists of professional divers just as much as those of us simply wanting something robust and water-resistant. But is the design too simple, and does it become boring? And does the tech do what it promises?

Case

One of the issues I’ve had personally with finding a Seiko Prospex watch for myself is case sizing. Typically, Seiko’s diving watches are large, measuring around 41.5mm wide, and even in some cases, the Seiko Tuna, for example, comes in at 48mm. So when Seiko launched the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 in 2021 with a mid-size case, I’m guessing it wasn’t just me and my smaller-than-average wrists that were happy.

So, it shouldn’t be surprising that one of the standout features of the Seiko SNE573, for me, is the sizing. Measuring a compact 38.5mm wide and just 10.8mm thick – the latter being something of an unfamiliar sight in dive watches – the watch will quite happily suit almost any wrist size.

It also has a nice case length of 46.45mm. Upon strapping the model on, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to wear. In fact, I’d go as far as saying it feels smaller on the wrist than what the dimensions suggest. It’s restrained, comfortable, and just looks great.

The watch still wears comfortably despite its well-sized unsigned crown at 3 o’clock, protected by two protruding crown guards, which offers an ISO-certified water resistance of 200 meters. The case also presents flat sapphire crystal glass – a feature that’s nice to see on a watch under $500 – and a screw-down case back decorated with a wave in relief.

Bezel

One of the reasons I think the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 watch feels smaller than its 38.5mm width suggests is down to the bezel. Much of the design’s real estate falls to the 120-click bezel.

Engineered from stainless steel, it is strongly knurled for easy manipulation even while wearing thick diving gloves, and on top, a black bezel insert is added, presenting the 60-minute scale in white.

For those wanting to use the Seiko SNE573 for diving, the bezel is unidirectional, allowing for precise and reliable tracking of elapsed time underwater while preventing accidental adjustments during your dive.

There’s also a nice pearlescent pip placed on the triangular marker at 12 o’clock for quick reference. The bezel is nicely polished, which adds a nice touch of contrast to the rest of the stainless steel housing, which is predominantly vertically brushed.

Dial

For the dial of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 watch, things are kept unapologetically simple. The surface is made of a classic matte black and set with the classic round, and baton-shaped indices infilled with Seiko’s green-glowing Lumibrite material.

At 3 o’clock, there’s a cut-out date window with a white backdrop, and at 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively, the Seiko logo is included alongside the Prospex emblem and lettering to showcase its solar capability and 200-meter water resistance.

The handset is typical of many of Seiko’s diver’s watches, offering a skeletonized construction with the broad hours with an arrow tip and the minutes styled in a syringe-like shape.

Up close, you’ll notice the finishing of the hours and minutes is brushed, creating a subtle bit of contrast to the polished seconds. The seconds has a luminous lollipop counterweight which, like the rest of the hardware, is decorated with Lumibrite.

One might think the dial of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 watch is a little boring, and you wouldn’t be wrong. It is plain, and it is simple, not even including a subtle sunray effect or any contrasting coloring on the seconds hand.

But, in my personal opinion, it’s one of the reasons why I like this watch so much. It’s unfussy, undeniably legible, and focuses more on its technology than any fanciful dial design.

Movement

As mentioned, the back of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 is kept closed with the iconic wave motif chosen to protect the V147 caliber housed within. It’s an in-house solar-powered movement from Seiko offering classic time and date functionality and an accuracy rated at +/-15 seconds per month or +/- 1 second per day.

Most of its benefit comes from its ability to fuel itself automatically through solar or artificial light, meaning you never have to worry about battery changes. In bright sunny conditions, the caliber will become fully charged after around 9 hours.

Strap

The Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 arrives on a comfortable black silicone strap with a small amount of ribbed detail on either side. It’s a nice strap but nothing extraordinary. Thankfully, with a 20mm lug width, this watch can be easily personalized with a variety of other straps to make it your own.

Like some of the other Prospex Solar Diver watches in the Japanese watch brand’s portfolio, I think this model would look lovely dressed up with a full metal bracelet or even add a bit of color to the monochromatic design with a striped NATO band.

Should You Buy A Seiko SNE573?

If you want a solar-powered dive watch that’s reliable, durable and impressively affordable, then yes, I highly recommend the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573. Professional divers and military personnel alike will appreciate its robust build and dependable performance.

I’m neither of those things, and my time with it was immensely enjoyable. I had no issues with accuracy, and I was especially grateful for its sizing. It also feels solid on the wrist, as if no matter what I did or where I went, it would hold up and endure the environment with me.

Seiko SNE573 Pricing & Availability

Seiko doesn’t let us down with the price of the SNE573 either. They continue to maintain their reputation for affordable luxury, retailing the model for $475 on authorized dealers like Exquisite Timepieces.

It can also be found on the second-hand market for anywhere between $300 and $350 if you’re working with a smaller budget. It’s a non-limited edition and remains a permanent part of Seiko’s collection. However, we can’t say how long that’ll be for.

Seiko SNE573 Alternatives

As I hinted in the introduction, there are several alternatives to the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 available in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio. If the simple black and steel aesthetic of the SNE573 is a little overdone to you, here are some other models still worthy of your time…

Seiko Prospex SNE575

Still a classic dive watch but with added color and texture for further visual interest, the Seiko Prospex SNE575 is an excellent alternative to the SNE573. This model has been released as part of Seiko’s popular PADI line, a range of watches dedicated to celebrating the official partnership between the Japanese watch brand and PADI (The Professional Association of Diving Instructors).

This time, the watch’s matte black dial is cleverly etched with the PADI globe logo, while the hour hand and first quarter of the diver’s scale are detailed in the logo’s same blue hue.

Seiko Prospex SNE591

Something of a staple for a diver’s watch – thanks to Rolex and their legendary Pepsi bezel – the Seiko Prospex SNE591 delivers a cool two-toned red and blue diving bezel with beautiful circular finishing.

To match, the screw-down crown has a red rubber ring for a 200-meter water-resistant rating, sitting at 3 o’clock on the 42.8mm wide stainless steel case. There’s the familiar matte black dial set with Lumibrite, a solid three-row link stainless steel bracelet, and the V157 in-house solar-powered movement.

Seiko Prospex SNE583

If you appreciate all the specs of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 but want something with a dial and bezel color that’s a little more exciting than black, I highly recommend the SNE583. Other than its full metal bracelet, this model offers all the same specs as the model in review here.

It has a compact 38.5mm stainless steel case, unidirectional rotating bezel, 200-meter water-resistant rating, and the V147 solar-powered movement. The main difference is the dial and bezel, which is colored in a deep emerald green, with a subtle sunray brushed finishing and circular finishing.

Seiko Prospex SNE585

In the exact same collection as the model above, you also have the Seiko Prospex reference SNE585. This time, the sunray brushed dial is colored in a gorgeous royal blue, a color that feels perfectly suited to ocean-based adventures. The bezel follows suit, presenting its 60-minute scale in white on a navy blue backdrop.

The rest of the specs stay the same; it has a 38.5mm steel case, 200-meter water resistance, sapphire crystal glass, and a screw-in crown. It also arrives on a three-row link solid stainless steel bracelet with a folding buckle and micro-adjustment.

Seiko Prospex SNE586

Finally, we have the Seiko Prospex SNE586, a slightly dressier take on the compact 38.5mm wide diver’s watch with a rose gold plated case and bezel. But despite its more opulent aesthetic, this is a watch that still upholds Seiko’s high levels of reliability.

It offers the same sapphire crystal glass, 200-meter water resistance, and a screw-down crown and case back. The dial and bezel insert are done in black for a dramatic level of contrast against the case material, which matches the black silicone strap secured by a rose gold-plated pin buckle.

Conclusion

Some might look at the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 and consider it boring, but that’s my favorite thing about it. It’s unfussy and rather than placing too much attention on color or detail, it instead focuses on its functionality to create a watch that is unapologetically robust and reliable.

Because of its simple design, I think it’s one that could be easily overlooked, but you shouldn’t. In my opinion, the dimensions are perfect – especially if you have wrists between 6 and 7 inches. It’s also not often you’ll find a watch less than $500 with sapphire crystal, ISO-certified 200-meter water resistance, and an innovative solar-powered dial. It’s yet another watch from Seiko I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend.