Have you recently read the term “watch crown” as part of a timepiece’s specifications or review and wondered what this means? Or have you just found yourself staring at your watch, speculating what that little knob on the side is?
Trust me, you’re not alone. We’ve all wondered what this component is called at some point. This charming feature is called a watch crown, and it’s not just for show.
A watch crown is the often small, rounded button-like feature on your watch case’s side. Its primary job is to help wind the watch – if your watch has a mechanical movement – and to set the time on the dial.
This information might be nothing new to you, but did you know that crowns offer more than just winding and setting? In today’s blog, we will be exploring all the intricacies of a watch crown, including the different types of watch crowns out there and why they are so important in the construction of your timepiece.
Why are Crowns so Important?
The humble watch crown might seem like a small, insignificant detail at first, but it actually provides a long list of benefits to your timepiece. Usually found on the right-hand side of the case but also sometimes positioned on the left (we’re looking at you U-Boat), the watch crown is predominantly used for setting the time and date on your watch.
By popping it out to its correct position, you can turn the crown to adjust the hands and calendar. And, if your watch has additional complications—like a moon phase or GMT—the crown handles those settings too.
If you have a mechanical watch, the crown is also essential in winding the movement. Unlike quartz watches that are powered by an electronic battery, mechanical movements rely on a mainspring to store energy. When you turn the crown, it tightens this mainspring, gradually releasing energy that powers the watch.
Moreover, the watch crown plays a protective role in the functionality of your timepiece. Some crowns have a screw-down feature, creating a tight seal between the crown and case. This helps to protect the watch, and the movement inside, from things like water, dust, and dirt. It’s a particularly vital feature for those wanting a watch to use for diving or outdoor adventures.
History of Watch Crowns
In the early days of watchmaking history, people had yet to experience the joy of wearing a wristwatch. Instead, they typically kept a pocket watch in their pocket and held it onto their clothing with a chain.
With their manual winding movements, these devices required winding once or twice a day to keep their time. But they didn’t have a crown that could do that. Instead, the owner would have to carry around a small winding key, which was placed into a small hole in the side of the case. They would then have to turn the key to wind their pocket watch.
This was the case until the early 19th century when a clever chap named Adolphe Nicole introduced the first watch crown. His invention replaced those fiddly keys with a much simpler, integrated knob on the side of the watch case. It was a revolutionary innovation, allowing watch owners to wind their timepieces up on the go – with no more risk of losing those small winding keys!
Ever since, watch crowns have evolved to become more than just a winding tool. In the 20th century, watchmakers started adding features like screw-down crowns for better water resistance, and the integration of more complex complications like GMT and perpetual calendar allowed crowns to manipulate these features, too.
The look of watch crowns has also changed over the years. They were once large and onion-shaped but have now adapted to become smaller and sleeker. Their style is tailored to different types of watches, ensuring the crown not only serves its practical purpose but also complements the overall aesthetic of the watch.
Types of Watch Crowns
When it comes to watch crowns, there’s more variety than you might think! Each type of crown has its own unique set of features and serves specific functions, adding both style and practicality to your timepiece. Let’s take a look at some of the most popular types of watch crowns you might find…
Push-Pull Crown
Possibly the most common and straightforward type of watch crown you’ll encounter is the push-pull crown. As its name suggests, it uses a simple pull and push mechanism. To set the date or wind the movement, you simply pull the crown outward – often to different positions for each function.
Then once the movement is fully wound and the time and date are set correctly, you push the crown back in to secure the settings. Push-pull crowns are found in most everyday watches, especially dress watches that don’t require high levels of water resistance.
Screw-Down Crown
Most often found on diving watches and adventure watches, the screw-down crown arrives with a clever threaded mechanism that literally allows the crown to be screwed into the watch case. This creates a tight seal against the two components so you can feel assured of enhanced water resistance and protection against dust and debris.
To adjust the crown or manually wind the movement, you would unscrew the crown before screwing it back in. Screw-down crowns are essential for watches designed for extreme conditions, especially diver’s watches that need complete protection against water pressure.
Onion-Shaped Crowns
While the two types of watch crowns above reflect the functionality of the watch, the next few crowns are named as such for their looks. The onion-shaped crown is exactly what its name suggests: a crown that looks a lot like an onion.
It has an almost bulbous appearance reminiscent of the shape of some of the first watch crowns. As such, they are a popular sight on vintage-inspired watches. They add a real nostalgic charm to watches, plus their large size and knurled detailing make them easy to grip and adjust.
Crowns with Cabochon
Cabochon crowns are a popular choice for those that want their watch to look elegant and stylish. It’s a style that sees the tip of the crown set with a cabochon gemstone, a gemstone that is smooth and rounded for a sophisticated look.
The Cartier Tank is one of the world’s most famous watches known for boasting a cabochon crown on the right hand side of its rectangular case. The cabochon is usually made from materials like sapphire, ruby, or onyx and not only enhances the watch’s aesthetics but also provides a tactile, satisfying feel.
Recessed Crowns
The recessed crown is a type of crown that is fairly new to the watch world, spotted on modern watches. Unlike traditional crowns that protrude from the watch case, these knobs are embedded or set into a small cavity within the case. They are designed to enhance protection, so you are less likely to damage the crown should you knock it against a hard surface.
Plus, it also helps to maintain a watch’s water resistance and gives the case a more streamlined appearance. You’ll most likely see recessed crowns in sports watches where durability and sleek design are key.
When Does a Watch Crown Need Replacement?
Hopefully, your watch crown will never need replacing, but if it becomes damaged, hard to operate, or the water resistance is compromised, it may require a replacement. Common signs of a broken watch crown include difficulty winding the watch, problems setting the time, or noticeable wear and tear on the exterior of the crown.
Replacing a watch crown yourself isn’t an easy task, as it’s an intricate process that requires a steady hand and plenty of precision. The method involves removing the old crown, selecting the correct replacement, and then carefully ensuring it fits perfectly against the case and attaches to the movement to ensure all functions operate correctly. It often requires specialized tools and expertise to avoid damaging the watch and the movement inside.
For the best results, we advise you to leave crown replacement to professional watchmakers. At Exquisite Timepieces, we offer a specialized watch repair service where we make sure only the top watchmakers handle and repair your timepiece. We securely package each watch and send it directly to authorized service facilities to ensure it’s treated with the utmost care.
Conclusion
If you couldn’t tell, we think the crown is a bit of a hidden gem. It may seem like a small, barely noticeable part of a watch, but it plays a critical role in its functionality. From winding the movement to setting the time to shielding the watch against water, dust, and debris, the crown is essential for your watch’s performance and longevity.
And given its importance, it’s equally important to make sure you take care of your watch crown. If you suspect any damage or issues, we highly recommend having it inspected immediately to prevent any further harm coming to your precious timepiece.
The world of watches can be a confusing place. There’s a whole bunch of terminology that can be puzzling even to the most experienced watch collector, let alone those of us completely new to timepieces. From tourbillons to tachymeters, perpetual calendars to power reserves and bezels to balance bridges, know that it’s okay to feel overwhelmed by all these different terms.
I guarantee all of us, at some point in our watch collecting journey, have had to Google what these words mean. And I’d bet my money that one of the most frequently asked questions is: “what is a chronometer?”
Think of a chronometer watch as an overachiever, the clever one in school. It’s a watch that has passed a super strict set of accuracy tests, typically by an official body known as COSC in Switzerland (although there are other bodies we’ll get to shortly).
The watch has basically been to a boot camp to ensure it is super precise; the movement is tested in different positions and temperatures to ensure it keeps near-perfect time. People choose chronometer watches when they want undeniable reliability, whether that’s an essential lifestyle requirement or just a cool thing to boast about with their friends.
History of Chronometers
Like most inventions, the chronometer was created out of need. During the 18th century, a serious issue faced by sailors traveling out at sea was their inability to accurately determine their longitude, making navigation tricky and often dangerous.
Enter John Harrison, a British clockmaker who, in 1735, created the first marine chronometer. His invention was a game changer, allowing sea-dwellers to navigate the ocean with incredible levels of accuracy. It was kind of like giving sailors a GPS long before satellites were even a thing.
Over the years, chronometers got smaller and more precise, eventually moving from ship decks to wrists. Chronometer watches became popular during the early 20th century as the demand for accurate timekeeping skyrocketed. It was here when organizations like COSC were founded, created with the aim of certifying chronometer watches under a strict set of standards. Now, only the most precise timepieces earn the title “chronometer”.
Now, with GPS systems aboard, we don’t need chronometers to set sail, but the precision of a chronometer wristwatch is still necessary and impressive. They have become symbols of reliability and craftsmanship, with typically only the finest watchmakers in the world able to create chronometer-certified watches.
Chronometer Certification Standards
There are various chronometer certifications, each with its own testing method. So, if you’re looking for a chronometer watch for yourself, it’s good to know which certification your watch has passed. Even some watch brands, known for crafting their own in-house movements, have developed their own chronometer certifications to show their dedication to precision and craftsmanship. Let’s look at some of the best-known chronometer certifications and what is involved in each…
COSC Chronometer
The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, abbreviated to COSC, is the most common standard of chronometer certification. The Swiss establishment was the first institution to certify watches as chronometers, demanding the best in accuracy and craftsmanship. Following its founding in 1973, it still demands a very specific set of specifications from a watch to earn its prestigious certification. Those that do pass receive a coveted COSC certificate.
Watches that are assessed under COSC undergo a series of tests over 15 days. These assess a movement’s precision under different conditions, including temperature variations (8°C, 23°C, and 38°C) and positional changes (like crown up, down, and horizontal). The watch must maintain a daily rate within a tight range of -4 to +6 seconds to pass.
METAS Chronometer
METAS Chronometer certification is another respected standard, but one set by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) in collaboration with Omega. It goes beyond traditional chronometer testing to ensure even higher levels of precision and durability. To achieve this certification, a watch must pass COSC certification before undergoing additional tests conducted by METAS.
These tests include exposure to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, different temperatures, and even different water pressure levels to verify its robustness. Additionally, the watch’s accuracy is assessed in six different positions and at two different power levels—fully wound and with a 33% reserve. METAS-certified chronometers guarantee a daily precision of 0 to +5 seconds.
Superlative Chronometer
Superlative Chronometer certification is exclusively awarded by Rolex to its own timepieces. Like METAS, it goes beyond the standard of COSC chronometer testing, ensuring that every movement meets Rolex’s own stringent standard. Again, every movement must first pass COSC certification before then being handled by Rolex’s professional watchmakers, who take the fully assembled watch – not just movement – in-house for further testing.
These tests include placing the watch in multiple positions and in varying conditions such as freezing, hot and magnetic environments. They also test for waterproofness, power reserve, and automatic winding proficiency. To receive Superlative Chronometer certification, the watch must maintain a daily rate of -2 to +2 seconds, making Rolex Superlative Chronometers some of the most accurate in the world.
Grand Seiko Special Standard
As its name suggests, the Grand Seiko Special Standard is a certification exclusive to Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko. Hoping to prove Japanese watchmaking can be just as precise and reliable as Swiss, the brand has created their own certification even stricter than COSC.
To receive the Grand Seiko Special Standard certification, a movement must undergo rigorous testing for 17 days across six different positions and at three temperature settings. The movements are also tested in both horizontal and vertical orientations. The daily deviation allowed is between -3 to +5 seconds, exceeding the standards set by COSC.
German Chronometer Standard
The German Chronometer Standard is a certification similar to Switzerland’s COSC but one that is dedicated to testing the accuracy of German-made watches like those from Glashutte Original. The standard is found under certification DIN 8319, with specifications equivalent to those of the ISO 3159.
It values a series of tests over 15 days, with the movement tested in five positions and at two different temperatures. Like COSC, it must also maintain a daily rate of accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds. However, unlike its Swiss counterpart, the German Chronometer Standard involves testing the fully cased watch, not just the movement.
Patek Philippe Seal
Patek Philippe also has its own chronometer certification unique to them. In 2009, they established a seal that represents the rigorous standards of their movement manufacture, once again going above and beyond the standards set out by COSC.
To earn the Patek Philippe Seal, a watch must maintain a daily accuracy of -3 to +2 seconds in several positions and at different temperatures. Additionally, the watch’s durability, finishing, and overall craftsmanship are examined, so you’re guaranteed some of the finest levels of watchmaking in the world.
Qualité Fleurier Standard
The Qualité Fleurier Standard, also sometimes known as the FQF Quality seal, is a certification process for mechanical watches made entirely in Switzerland. This means every part of the watch must be 100% Swiss-made.
Then, the movement must pass the tests of the COSC, followed by the FQF’s additional tests, including accuracy checks in different positions and temperatures, ensuring it maintains a daily deviation of -0 to +5 seconds.
Chronometers vs Chronographs
Chronometer and chronograph are two watch terms that are often confused with each other – understandably so since both begin with “chrono”. But in fact, chronometers and chronographs are totally different.
As we now know, a chronometer is all about precision; it’s a watch that has been officially certified to keep time super accurate, passing rigorous tests. A chronograph, however, is a watch built with a stopwatch function, allowing you to measure elapsed time with separate sub-dials.
Fun fact: you can have a chronometer chronograph, a watch awarded chronometer certification equipped with a handy stopwatch complication.
Popular Chronometer Watches on Exquisite Timepieces
If you’re into precision timepieces, chronometers are where it’s at. At Exquisite Timepieces, we have a number of exceptional chronometer watches for you to enjoy. Here are some of the most popular, as rated by our customers:
Known as one of Omega’s Master Chronometer watches, a family of timepieces certified by METAS, this Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm promises incredible levels of accuracy and reliability. The movement, with its co-axial escapement, is highly anti-magnetic and promises a healthy power reserve of 60 hours.
It’s also a beautiful watch externally, featuring a 39mm stainless steel case with a scratch-proof fluted bezel and 100 meter water resistance. The dial is the star of the show for me, though, colored in blue with an unusual star-shaped dome finish set with Super-LumiNova infilled hands and indexes.
Possibly one of the most affordable manufacturers of chronometer watches, Frederique Constant has truly reached their goal of making luxury watchmaking accessible to everyone. For less than $2,500, they offer a COSC-certified full-metal sports watch with their Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC Silver Dial model, powered by the Caliber FC-303 with a 38-hour power reserve.
It, too, has a 39mm stainless steel case, but one with a sporty, integrated architecture that flows into the brushed and polished H-link bracelet. The dial is crisp white and uniquely embossed with a globe motif across the center.
Grand Seiko has a number of impressive in-house movements worth mentioning, but their Caliber 9SA5, found inside the Grand Seiko SLGH021 Limited Edition, is one of their Grand Seiko Special Standard movements. With a daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day, a power reserve of 80 hours, and a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, it becomes one of the most impressive chronometer movements on the market.
The watch is also absolutely breathtaking, featuring an intricately detailed, mosaic-like mint green dial inspired by the colors of the Genbi Valley landscape and a 40mm wide Ever-Brilliant steel case polished using the brand’s famous Zaratsu technique.
Offering a more traditional aesthetic, one that harks back to some of the world’s first chronometers, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer watch is powered by the in-house Caliber 58-01, a manual winding movement with a 44-hour power reserve and chronometer certification.
The movement is housed within a luxurious 18ct rose gold case, measuring to 42mm wide and just 12.6mm tall, strapped to the wrist by a dark brown alligator leather strap. The dial is silver-grainé and decorated with blued hands, a black railroad chapter ring, an oversized date window and timeless Roman numerals.
Finally, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is an exceptional chronometer watch with an opulent integrated case and bracelet, guilloche dial, and GMT complication. The soft lines of the case are engineered from stainless steel, while the bezel, with its detailed knurled finish, is machined from 950 platinum.
It sits on the wrist at 40mm wide and 10.7mm thick, secured by a three-row link bracelet with brushed and polished finishing. The blue grain d’Orge hand-guilloché dial presents two skeletonised hands for the hours and minutes and a rose gold hand for the GMT, all powered by the chronometer certified Caliber PF051.
Conclusion
We hope you now have a solid understanding of what a chronometer watch is and why these timepieces are so highly coveted. If precision and accuracy aren’t high on your list of priorities, a chronometer might be a little wasted on you.
However, if you value precision and reliability, especially if you have a job or lifestyle that requires high levels of timekeeping accuracy, then a chronometer watch would be a worthy investment. Or maybe you’re just like me, and you simply appreciate the intricate technology that goes on inside these watches. If so, a chronometer watch will no doubt enhance your daily life too.
I think most people familiar with Seiko are already well-versed in this Japanese watchmaker’s value proposition. This is a brand that has made it their bread-and-butter to create reliable and robust watches with beautiful dials and easy-to-use technology. And of all their collections, the Seiko Prospex line has become their flagship, offering durable diving instruments worthy of both land and water. But when there’s such a large number of models on offer, how do you know where to start?
I’ve been fortunate to get hands-on experience with several Seiko Prospex watches during my life, but I have never had the chance to test out one of their solar-powered models.
I sometimes forget that Seiko offers solar-powered watches because I’m often so entranced by their in-house mechanical movements, but these designs claim to be equally impressive, requiring no rewinding or battery replacement, powered entirely by natural and artificial light.
So, when it came to choosing which solar Seiko watch I wanted to test, I went straight for their most classic: the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573.
About The Seiko SNE573
Why would I choose the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 out of them all? Well, a quick look and it’s clear this is a watch that’s going to be easy to wear.
It’s a classic black dial with a black bezel and stainless steel cased design with fantastic dimensions to suit a vast majority of wrists. It also utilizes one of Seiko’s most used in-house solar-powered movements, the Caliber V147, a movement I’m desperate to see live up to my expectations.
It’s also a watch with plenty of diving capability; it has a 200-meter water resistance, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and Seiko’s glow-in-the-dark Lumibrite across the dial. And yet, despite all this, there’s something beautifully timeless about its execution.
I wasn’t sure if it was the shape of the steel case or the simplicity of its monochromatic design, but it felt like a watch I could wear just as effortlessly on land as I could in water.
It’s not a brand new watch by any means, having launched in 2021, but the Seiko SNE573 is still a permanent addition to its collection, which, to me, suggests it’s a watch that has proved some level of popularity.
So, with all these things in mind, I became curious if, when on the wrist, these factors come together to prove the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 as one that lives up to the high expectations myself and Seiko have set for themselves.
History of Seiko Solar Dive Watches
Understandably, solar-powered watches haven’t been around for all that long, first introduced during the 1970’s.
Seiko was one of the first brands to launch their own, with the Seiko 0634-5000 becoming something of a game changer for the industry as it allowed those who frequented the outdoors the convenience of never having to rewind a mechanical movement or swap out the battery for a standard quartz watch. Instead, it harnessed the power of the sun to keep the hands around the dial ticking.
It wasn’t really until the 1990s, however, that Seiko became well-known for their solar watches. It was here when they merged their solar-powered tech with their legendary Prospex line, creating a reliable diving watch with underwater durability and the endless power of sunlight.
Over the years, their solar dive watches have evolved – but only slightly – to incorporate the latest styles and technology. We’re now seeing more advanced solar movements, increased water-resistant ratings, and updated designs that are both functional and fashionable. The 2021 Seiko SNE573 is one of the same, promising all the essential features you’d want in a solar-powered dive watch.
Seiko SNE573: In-Depth Review
Now it’s time to get hands-on with the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573. As I mentioned in the introduction, there was a reason I wanted to try this watch specifically. Just from looks, it appears to be an easy-to-wear diver’s model for most occasions.
Plus, the spec suggests it would be worthy of the wrists of professional divers just as much as those of us simply wanting something robust and water-resistant. But is the design too simple, and does it become boring? And does the tech do what it promises?
Case
One of the issues I’ve had personally with finding a Seiko Prospex watch for myself is case sizing. Typically, Seiko’s diving watches are large, measuring around 41.5mm wide, and even in some cases, the Seiko Tuna, for example, comes in at 48mm. So when Seiko launched the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 in 2021 with a mid-size case, I’m guessing it wasn’t just me and my smaller-than-average wrists that were happy.
So, it shouldn’t be surprising that one of the standout features of the Seiko SNE573, for me, is the sizing. Measuring a compact 38.5mm wide and just 10.8mm thick – the latter being something of an unfamiliar sight in dive watches – the watch will quite happily suit almost any wrist size.
It also has a nice case length of 46.45mm. Upon strapping the model on, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to wear. In fact, I’d go as far as saying it feels smaller on the wrist than what the dimensions suggest. It’s restrained, comfortable, and just looks great.
The watch still wears comfortably despite its well-sized unsigned crown at 3 o’clock, protected by two protruding crown guards, which offers an ISO-certified water resistance of 200 meters. The case also presents flat sapphire crystal glass – a feature that’s nice to see on a watch under $500 – and a screw-down case back decorated with a wave in relief.
Bezel
One of the reasons I think the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 watch feels smaller than its 38.5mm width suggests is down to the bezel. Much of the design’s real estate falls to the 120-click bezel.
Engineered from stainless steel, it is strongly knurled for easy manipulation even while wearing thick diving gloves, and on top, a black bezel insert is added, presenting the 60-minute scale in white.
For those wanting to use the Seiko SNE573 for diving, the bezel is unidirectional, allowing for precise and reliable tracking of elapsed time underwater while preventing accidental adjustments during your dive.
There’s also a nice pearlescent pip placed on the triangular marker at 12 o’clock for quick reference. The bezel is nicely polished, which adds a nice touch of contrast to the rest of the stainless steel housing, which is predominantly vertically brushed.
Dial
For the dial of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 watch, things are kept unapologetically simple. The surface is made of a classic matte black and set with the classic round, and baton-shaped indices infilled with Seiko’s green-glowing Lumibrite material.
At 3 o’clock, there’s a cut-out date window with a white backdrop, and at 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively, the Seiko logo is included alongside the Prospex emblem and lettering to showcase its solar capability and 200-meter water resistance.
The handset is typical of many of Seiko’s diver’s watches, offering a skeletonized construction with the broad hours with an arrow tip and the minutes styled in a syringe-like shape.
Up close, you’ll notice the finishing of the hours and minutes is brushed, creating a subtle bit of contrast to the polished seconds. The seconds has a luminous lollipop counterweight which, like the rest of the hardware, is decorated with Lumibrite.
One might think the dial of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 watch is a little boring, and you wouldn’t be wrong. It is plain, and it is simple, not even including a subtle sunray effect or any contrasting coloring on the seconds hand.
But, in my personal opinion, it’s one of the reasons why I like this watch so much. It’s unfussy, undeniably legible, and focuses more on its technology than any fanciful dial design.
Movement
As mentioned, the back of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 is kept closed with the iconic wave motif chosen to protect the V147 caliber housed within. It’s an in-house solar-powered movement from Seiko offering classic time and date functionality and an accuracy rated at +/-15 seconds per month or +/- 1 second per day.
Most of its benefit comes from its ability to fuel itself automatically through solar or artificial light, meaning you never have to worry about battery changes. In bright sunny conditions, the caliber will become fully charged after around 9 hours.
Strap
The Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 arrives on a comfortable black silicone strap with a small amount of ribbed detail on either side. It’s a nice strap but nothing extraordinary. Thankfully, with a 20mm lug width, this watch can be easily personalized with a variety of other straps to make it your own.
Like some of the other Prospex Solar Diver watches in the Japanese watch brand’s portfolio, I think this model would look lovely dressed up with a full metal bracelet or even add a bit of color to the monochromatic design with a striped NATO band.
Should You Buy A Seiko SNE573?
If you want a solar-powered dive watch that’s reliable, durable and impressively affordable, then yes, I highly recommend the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573. Professional divers and military personnel alike will appreciate its robust build and dependable performance.
I’m neither of those things, and my time with it was immensely enjoyable. I had no issues with accuracy, and I was especially grateful for its sizing. It also feels solid on the wrist, as if no matter what I did or where I went, it would hold up and endure the environment with me.
Seiko SNE573 Pricing & Availability
Seiko doesn’t let us down with the price of the SNE573 either. They continue to maintain their reputation for affordable luxury, retailing the model for $475 on authorized dealers like Exquisite Timepieces.
It can also be found on the second-hand market for anywhere between $300 and $350 if you’re working with a smaller budget. It’s a non-limited edition and remains a permanent part of Seiko’s collection. However, we can’t say how long that’ll be for.
Seiko SNE573 Alternatives
As I hinted in the introduction, there are several alternatives to the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 available in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio. If the simple black and steel aesthetic of the SNE573 is a little overdone to you, here are some other models still worthy of your time…
Still a classic dive watch but with added color and texture for further visual interest, the Seiko Prospex SNE575 is an excellent alternative to the SNE573. This model has been released as part of Seiko’s popular PADI line, a range of watches dedicated to celebrating the official partnership between the Japanese watch brand and PADI (The Professional Association of Diving Instructors).
This time, the watch’s matte black dial is cleverly etched with the PADI globe logo, while the hour hand and first quarter of the diver’s scale are detailed in the logo’s same blue hue.
Something of a staple for a diver’s watch – thanks to Rolex and their legendary Pepsi bezel – the Seiko Prospex SNE591 delivers a cool two-toned red and blue diving bezel with beautiful circular finishing.
To match, the screw-down crown has a red rubber ring for a 200-meter water-resistant rating, sitting at 3 o’clock on the 42.8mm wide stainless steel case. There’s the familiar matte black dial set with Lumibrite, a solid three-row link stainless steel bracelet, and the V157 in-house solar-powered movement.
If you appreciate all the specs of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 but want something with a dial and bezel color that’s a little more exciting than black, I highly recommend the SNE583. Other than its full metal bracelet, this model offers all the same specs as the model in review here.
It has a compact 38.5mm stainless steel case, unidirectional rotating bezel, 200-meter water-resistant rating, and the V147 solar-powered movement. The main difference is the dial and bezel, which is colored in a deep emerald green, with a subtle sunray brushed finishing and circular finishing.
In the exact same collection as the model above, you also have the Seiko Prospex reference SNE585. This time, the sunray brushed dial is colored in a gorgeous royal blue, a color that feels perfectly suited to ocean-based adventures. The bezel follows suit, presenting its 60-minute scale in white on a navy blue backdrop.
The rest of the specs stay the same; it has a 38.5mm steel case, 200-meter water resistance, sapphire crystal glass, and a screw-in crown. It also arrives on a three-row link solid stainless steel bracelet with a folding buckle and micro-adjustment.
Finally, we have the Seiko Prospex SNE586, a slightly dressier take on the compact 38.5mm wide diver’s watch with a rose gold plated case and bezel. But despite its more opulent aesthetic, this is a watch that still upholds Seiko’s high levels of reliability.
It offers the same sapphire crystal glass, 200-meter water resistance, and a screw-down crown and case back. The dial and bezel insert are done in black for a dramatic level of contrast against the case material, which matches the black silicone strap secured by a rose gold-plated pin buckle.
Conclusion
Some might look at the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 and consider it boring, but that’s my favorite thing about it. It’s unfussy and rather than placing too much attention on color or detail, it instead focuses on its functionality to create a watch that is unapologetically robust and reliable.
Because of its simple design, I think it’s one that could be easily overlooked, but you shouldn’t. In my opinion, the dimensions are perfect – especially if you have wrists between 6 and 7 inches. It’s also not often you’ll find a watch less than $500 with sapphire crystal, ISO-certified 200-meter water resistance, and an innovative solar-powered dial. It’s yet another watch from Seiko I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend.
My first mechanical watch was a Seiko Presage. It was the first timepiece I bought when I got my first paycheque working as a watch writer, and still, to this day, it remains one of my most worn watches.
So, as much as I will aim to write this review with as little bias as possible, this is a watch close to my heart – and for good reason. It’s one of Seiko’s most popular models, known as their flagship dress watch, and offers an almost unbelievable level of design craftsmanship and technology at affordable prices. So, with this in mind, let’s take a look at everything the Seiko Presage has to offer.
About The Seiko Presage
It’s actually hard to believe that the Seiko Presage collection was launched in 2016. It feels like such a staple in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio that it’s difficult to imagine it never existed.
But alas, it’s a collection that hasn’t even celebrated its 10th anniversary yet (I can’t wait for that one, though, as I’m sure Seiko will launch several beautiful limited editions for it). And yet, despite its short history, the Seiko Presage has become one of the brand’s most popular models and continues to be a staple for new and experienced watch collectors.
The Seiko Presage collection is best known for being the brand’s go-to dress watch, combining traditional watchmaking techniques with timeless and elegant designs. These watches always boast mechanical movements beautifully crafted dials, and their prices are very rarely over the $2,000 mark. It’s also a collection home to several distinctive families, each with their own set of unique characteristics to suit different tastes.
The Presage Sharp Edged Series is one of the more contemporary lines, characterized by its bold angular lines and textured dials. In contrast, the Presage 60’s Style series channels retro elegance, bringing some of Seiko’s mid-20th century watches to life by opting for vintage details and perfectly round cases topped by contrasting bezels.
Then there’s the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time family, perhaps their best-known model in the collection. This is a range of watches inspired by Japanese cocktail culture, with every design boasting different dial textures and colors to celebrate a specific cocktail.
History of Seiko Presage Watches
As mentioned, the Seiko Presage collection has a short history since the series only first arrived on the watch scene in 2016. But its major popularity in such a short space of time is a true testament to the classic craftsmanship and design expertise coming from the Japanese watchmaker.
Although the Presage name didn’t appear until the mid-2010s, the line-up is inspired by a watch released in 1913 known as the Seiko Laurel. This legendary watch was Seiko’s first-ever mechanical timepiece, boasting a perfectly round case mimicking the shape of a pocket watch, an oversized crown, and a crisp white enamel dial with beautiful navy and red Arabic numerals. It’s the captivating materials and elegant details of the Laurel that the Seiko Presage collection carries on.
Since its launch, the Presage collection has grown to include several unique sub-families, each with their own personality. One of the first was the Presage Cocktail Time, unveiled in 2017, inspired by the vibrant colors and textures of cocktail culture.
Think lively hues and dazzling dial textures that make you feel like you’re always ready for a night out. In 2018, the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series made its debut, and truthfully, at the time, this felt like a bold move from Seiko, but it was one that paid off. They combined the elegance of the models before it with sharper, more refined cases and textured dials inspired by the hemp-leaf pattern often seen in Japanese culture.
The Seiko Presage 60’s Style series came next, launched in 2019, bringing a nostalgic nod to Seiko’s vintage designs from the 1960s. This series is often treasured by those who love classic and retro aesthetics. All the Seiko Presage sub-families are beautiful in their own way, offering a completely different take on the dress watch genre.
If I had to pick just one, though, it would be the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time. It’s the very model I chose as my first mechanical watch, and as I said, it’s a design that rarely leaves my wrist. Here’s why…
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time: In-Depth Review
Before we jump into the review of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch, it’s worth noting that there’s an almost endless selection of models in this family. There really is something for everyone; there’s a variety of case sizes, case materials, a beautiful spectrum of dial colors and textures, and even a number of different movements and complications to choose from.
So, no matter whether you’re drawn to the simplicity of a time and date display or you prefer something more complex like a semi-skeletonized dial, GMT, or a power reserve indicator, just know that there’s Seiko Presage Cocktail Time likely to tick all your wrist’s boxes. I’ll try my best to highlight all the standout features in this review, but don’t be afraid to explore the full collection yourself to truly appreciate the breadth of choices available.
Case Sizes & Materials
Part of the beauty of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection is the vast number of choices on offer. It doesn’t matter if you have tiny five-inch wrists like me or 7-inch wrists and bigger; there is a case size that will perfectly suit you.
Sizes range from 30mm all the way to 41mm, with case metals varying from classic stainless steel to yellow or rose gold plated. Some models feature a combination of steel and gold for a beautiful dual-toned finish.
Although slightly different in their size and coloring, every case in the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series follows the same set of design principles. These are watches that are simple and timeless; they often have relatively low profiles measuring around 12mm in height, so they can easily be slipped under the cuff of a shirt, and bright polished finishing to complete the dressy look.
A notable feature of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time case is the crown, which sits, in some cases, as large as 6.5mm, which makes manipulating the time, date, and any other piece of functionality a breeze.
Features like this draw inspiration from the original Seiko Laurel, which also had its own prominent crown. The shape of the crown is also similar in that it gets thicker the further away it gets from the case. It’s also slightly knurled and engraved with the “S” logo.
Jumping back to the thickness of these designs, much of that is down to the Hardlex crystal glass that is found on top. It has a prevalent dome that adds to its vintage persona. Sure, Hardlex crystal glass isn’t quite as scratch-resistant as luxury sapphire crystal.
Still, when even the most expensive watch in Seiko’s Cocktail Time collection retails for no more than $800, it’s a worthy and understandable sacrifice. Plus, since these are typically worn as dress watches, you’d hope there’s much less chance of scratching the crystal compared to, say, a tool watch or sports watch.
To cement its status as a dress watch, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time always arrives with a smooth fixed dial machined from its respective case metal. Again, the finishing is typically brightly polished to match the rest of the architecture’s finish. The cases are also always 50 meters water resistant, a typical rating to find on a dress watch.
Dials
While the cases of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches are beautiful and easily wearable, there’s nothing otherworldly about them. But with the dials, that’s a totally different story. I’ve found that most people get into watches due to one of the following: a love of a brand’s history, an interest in mechanical watchmaking, or a love of design – most specifically, dial design. I’ve always been part of the latter category, and it’s probably the main reason why the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection has always been one of my all-time favorites.
These aren’t just your simple colored dials with printed numerals. These are intricate, well-thought-out displays with meaning. As previously mentioned, the series is inspired by Japan’s cocktail culture, with each dial bringing to life the colors and textures of a specific cocktail. There are dials named after the “Martini”, the “Blue Moon”, the “White Lady” and “Cosmopolitan”, each with their own creamy texture and iridescent color.
It’s impossible to pick a favorite, but if you’re someone new to the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection, I’d recommend taking a look at references SRPD37 and SRPB46 to get a good idea of what is on offer. The SRPD37 has a beautiful ribbed finished dial that looks almost like the creases in a fan.
It’s colored in a deep emerald green, which, thanks to the sunray-like effect, changes color dramatically depending on the angle at which you view it. Similarly, reference SRPB46 has its own textured dial, but this time, inspired by the Manhattan cocktail. It boasts a beautiful coffee-brown hue that gets darker at the edges, matching the rose gold dial hardware and case all too well.
No matter which dial you choose, each Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch follows a similar pattern. It presents applied polished hour indices with sharp, almost arrowhead-shaped silhouettes and two dauphine-shaped hands for the hours and minutes. The seconds hand is kept slim and straight and is sometimes colored in a contrasting color compared to the rest of the dial for a nice pop of legibility.
Those with date complications often present the disc in the same hue as the dial for a subtle integration of the handy feature. There’s also an applied Seiko logo at 12 o’clock, printed minute markings around the circumference, and writing for “Presage Automatic” at 6 o’clock.
As previously stated, some of the models come with additional complications for a less traditional look. There are some beautiful Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Semi-Skeleton watches that present a lovely openwork aperture at 9 o’clock, revealing part of the automatic winding movement working hard inside. For frequent travelers, you might enjoy the Cocktail Time GMT series, which adds a colorful dual-time zone hand and a 24-hour scale around the dial.
Movements
As with all their watches, the Japanese watchmaker only uses mechanical, in-house movements in their Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series. There are several different calibers in use, but one of the most commonly spotted is the Caliber 4R35 automatic movement. It’s the same movement popularly used in some of their higher-end Seiko 5 models and some of their Prospex series, promising classic time and date function and a healthy 41-hour power reserve.
It also promises a frequency of 21,600 vph with hackable seconds and hand-winding capability. It’s also tested to relatively good levels of accuracy, promising a deviation of no more or less than -35/+45 seconds per day. In some instances, the movement is put on display through the case back, showing off the simple decoration, including a brushed yellow gold oscillating rotor and bridges.
The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches with the semi-skeletonized dials feature an adapted version of the Caliber 4R35 called the 4R38, which promises much of the same specs. Meanwhile, those with added GMT complication utilize the Caliber 4R34, which delivers the same 41-hour power reserve, 3Hz frequency and a total of 24 jewels.
Strap Options
As you’ll quickly find out upon exploring the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection, there are a number of strap options to choose from. Many of the models arrive on soft calfskin leather straps, some left smooth, and others embossed with an alligator-like pattern. They are often dyed in hues of black, brown, or navy.
You can also enjoy several metal strap options, all with a five-row link construction made from stainless steel, gold plating, or a mix of both. The bracelets of the Presage Cocktail Time watches are some of the most comfortable I have ever worn, and that includes some well-known luxury models.
There’s something very satisfying about the flexible five-link construction, and the finishing on the metal is nice, too, boasting a combination of brushed and polished finishing.
The leather straps are completed by classic pin buckles in their respective case metal, while the metal bracelets are equipped with a dual button release folding clasp. The latter does lack any chance of micro-adjustment, but that’s expected on a watch of this price.
Most Popular Seiko Presage Models
As we’ve discussed, the Seiko Presage collection is vast, with numerous families, sizes, dial designs, and complications to choose from. To make your search easier, we’ve handpicked five of our favorite models for you to explore in more detail. These standout pieces showcase the diversity and elegance of the Presage line, offering a blend of style and craftsmanship.
I briefly mentioned the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPD37 watch in the review for a reason. It’s a beautiful watch with a deep emerald green dial inspired by the Mockingbird cocktail. It’s detailed with the iconic sunray-like texture that allows the color to change in a different light and is set with silvered hardware and a contrasting yellow gold seconds hand. It arrives with a classic stainless steel case with a 40.5mm width and 11.8mm height and a luxurious dark brown smooth calfskin leather strap.
Although the sunray textured dial is a common sight in the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series, there are a handful of models that deviate from this design. The Seiko Presage SRPE43 is one of them, inspired by the light refraction created by cocktail glasses.
The unique diamond-like finish is colored in a dark blue to mimic the Old Clock Cocktail and set with Arabic numerals – a first for a Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch. This is also one of the more compact-sized references in the collection, measuring 38.5mm wide in stainless steel but still with enough room to house the Caliber 4R35 automatic movement.
The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB46 offers another unique take on the textured dial. This time, it elects a deep brown gradient effect that starts off almost black at the edges before turning gold at the very center.
It’s a color that works perfectly with the 40.5mm wide rose gold plated case and rose gold dial hardware. It presents the same domed Hardlex crystal glass, a 50-meter water-resistant rating, and the 41-hour power reserve typical of the Caliber 4R35.
One of my all-time favorite Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches, reference SRPB43, is named after the “Skydiving” cocktail, mimicking the colors of the drink with a pale, pastel blue textured dial. The shade of blue looks exquisite beside the 40.5mm wide stainless steel case topped by Hardlex crystal.
To match, the hour and minute hands are silvered while the seconds is a darker shade of blue for easy legibility. This model is presented on a smooth black calfskin leather strap with gorgeous blue stitching.
For those with a preference for metal bracelet dress watches, we recommend the Presage Cocktail Time ‘Blue Moon’ watch under reference SRPB41. This one pairs its deep navy dial with a dressy five-row link bracelet with a combination of brushed and polished finishes.
The bracelet matches the 40.5mm wide and 11.8mm tall case, promising a 50-meter water resistant rating and showcasing the Caliber 4R35 movement through the exhibition case.
Should You Buy A Seiko Presage?
Now I did say in the introduction that I’d try to be as unbiased as possible when it came to reviewing the Seiko Presage. And I hope so far, I have been. But when it comes to answering this question, I’m going to be totally prejudiced and give you my opinion as a proud owner of a Seiko Presage watch.
The answer is yes, you should absolutely buy one. These are stunning watches with dials that are worthy of a price tag higher than what Seiko advertises them for. I recommend the Seiko Presage to almost everyone I meet, especially those new to collecting and working with a limited budget. They rarely retail for more than $600 and yet still deliver a classy, elegant aesthetic and a reliable mechanical movement. That’s not something easy to find in today’s market, trust me.
Seiko Presage Pricing & Availability
Since the collection is so vast, the price of the Seiko Presage varies depending on which model you are looking at. The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time is one of the more affordable collections, retailing for as little as $420. Those in the Sharp Edged Series are a little higher in price due to the use of sapphire crystal and premium mechanical movements, starting from $950.
Finally, you can shop the Presage 60’s Style collection brand new for $520. Of course, many models can be found even cheaper on the second-hand market, so don’t be afraid to look there if you’re not fussed about a brand-new timepiece.
But shopping from an authorized dealer, like Exquisite Timepieces, ensures a full warranty and a premium buying experience. And you can view a wide variety of Seiko Presage watches in our boutique in Naples, Florida, or shop online at your leisure.
Conclusion
I have nothing bad to say about the Seiko Presage. I truly believe it to be the perfect entry-level collection for those looking for a beautiful and reliable dress watch. Despite their price, they don’t fall victim to any shortcomings.
Sure, they swap out the sapphire crystal for more affordable Hardlex, but other than that, there’s very little to excuse such an accessible price. The cases are beautiful, the movements are reliable and in-house, and most importantly, the dials are spectacular and some of the finest at this price point.
In the vast and often complex world of horology, there are only a few watches I’d seriously consider “holy grail” pieces. These are those rare gems that have not only left an indelible mark on history but continue to inspire watchmakers around the globe to create their own adaptations. They’re not just watches that tell the time but watches that are legendary for their interpretation of time. One such icon is the Omega Speedmaster.
This legendary black-dialed chronograph with its thin tachymeter bezel and five-row link bracelet has cemented itself a place in the pantheon of watchmaking greatness. The story of its birth is worthy of history books, and it has become a symbol of ingenuity, adventure, and timeless style. But, even today, years after its creation, this is a watch that remains high up on watch collector’s bucket lists.
About The Omega Speedmaster
I’m not really much of a chronograph wearer – mainly because they’re usually too big for my small wrists. And yet, if someone offered me an Omega Speedmaster watch, I’d take it in a heartbeat.
The model, first released in 1957, has quite easily become one of the main cornerstones in the world of chronographs and tool watches. Funnily enough, it was originally designed as a sports and racing chronograph, and its clean, functional design set it apart from other watches of that era. However, its history extended far beyond the race track, eventually becoming the first watch on the moon – but more on that shortly.
The Omega Speedmaster’s most defining features include its striking black dial, which provides excellent contrast and readability of its chronograph function, and the thin black tachymeter bezel that allows you to measure speed based on elapsed time.
There’s also often a five-link bracelet, adding both comfort and a handsome vintage appearance to the overall aesthetic, and a beautifully curved stainless steel case measuring 42mm wide.
History of Omega Speedmaster Watches
As mentioned, the story of the Omega Speedmaster began in 1957, starting with the introduction of the Speedmaster Ref. CK2915. It was originally designed as a sports and racing chronograph aiming to meet the needs of professional drivers – and, of course, watch enthusiasts who simply appreciate the adrenaline that goes with the racetrack.
Ironically, despite being a perfectly capable racing chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster didn’t find much success in its early years. In fact, it took half a decade and a rather significant journey into space to make that happen.
In 1962, NASA launched the Apollo program, a set of missions that planned to land humans on the moon for the first time and bring them back to Earth safely. A year later, NASA began their search for a watch that was reliable, durable, and legible enough to suit their astronauts in space. It would serve as the official watch of the Apollo program. In the end, four brands took their shot – Omega, Longines-Wittnauer, Rolex, and Hamilton.
As you’ve probably guessed, the only watch to pass the rigorous testing for use in space missions was the Omega Speedmaster, and its selection led it to become the official watch of the Apollo missions. The watch became no stranger to zero gravity and was most famously used by all three astronauts during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. This included Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, who made history as the first humans to walk on the moon. And, of course, that made the Omega Speedmaster the first watch on the moon.
This historic event cemented the Omega Speedmaster as a legend and earned it its well-known nickname the “Moonwatch”. The exact reference to make it onto the moon’s surface was reference 105.012, boasting the very same 42mm wide steel case, black chronograph dial with luminous inserts, and thin tachymeter bezel familiar to all modern-day references. It also featured a manual-winding movement and vintage Hesalite crystal.
It’s no surprise that as the years went on, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch collection expanded to include new variations and technological improvements. One of the biggest upgrades was the introduction of the “Professional” designation, which further solidified its connection to space missions and professional use.
In the 1990s and early 2000s, Omega continued innovating while carefully respecting the Speedmaster’s heritage. Maintaining all the core characteristics of the original designs, such as the Speedmaster Professional “Moonphase” and the Speedmaster Reduced, brought new functionality and design variations to the collection. The brand also introduced the “Co-Axial” movement for enhanced precision and durability.
Sure, the original reference 105.012 will always be the “true” Moonwatch, but the models that have come after it are just as important. They are all deeply rooted in the original’s history, boasting all the essential features that make an Omega Speedmaster an Omega Speedmaster. They have just embraced modern advancements to ensure the design remains a relevant and sought-after timepiece.
Omega Speedmaster: In-Depth Review
As we’ve mentioned, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has been engineered in a number of different styles, but more often than not, they have a set few characteristics in common. Here are some of the essential features you can expect to find in an Omega Speedmaster.
A 42mm Steel Case
Other than a handful of the first Omega Speedmaster watches released (including the first reference CK2915 made for the racetrack), every true Moonwatch since has had a case size of 42mm. The inaugural models came in a little smaller – something typical of the time – measuring to 38.6mm and later 39.7mm. But in 1969, with the creation of the Omega Speedmaster that would make it onto the moon’s surface, the lyre lugs and crown guards increased the diameter of the watch to 42mm. And it’s been that way ever since.
Similarly, the rest of the dimensions have barely changed. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional typically boasts a thickness of around 13mm, a lug-to-lug of 47mm, and a lug width of 20mm. It’s a really nice set of dimensions, allowing the watch to suit wrists anywhere from 6 inches and above. There are other Speedmasters that are smaller, but it’s worth noting these aren’t classed as “Moonwatches”.
The overall case shape is another permanent fixture, with the turned lug design borrowed from the classic Speedmaster’s silhouette. In the same way, the crown and chronograph pushers are placed in a traditional position, all recessed into the case just slightly for added durability. The crown is non-screwed down but does still warrant a 50-meter water-resistant rating.
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is most commonly found with a classic stainless steel case. The finishing is beautiful; it has brushed sides and high polish on the case and lug tops. There are also a handful of Moonwatch references in the Swiss watchmaker’s current collection made using their Sedna™, Canopus, or Moonshine Gold, a proprietary alloy developed by Omega.
The material offers a rich, long-lasting gold color and looks particularly stunning with the Speedmaster’s classic black dial. In some cases, gold is used for the entire case and bracelet, and in other instances, Omega has combined Sedna or Moonshine Gold with stainless steel for a cool two-toned finish. Although these models are beautiful for me, the classic stainless steel Speedmaster will always be my favorite.
A Black Tachymeter Bezel
Possibly one of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional’s most defining characteristics is its tachymeter bezel. Most other space-inspired watches, or even tool watches for that matter, don’t have a tachymeter bezel because it’s used for measuring speed, typically related to the speed of a car on the racetrack. But since the Speedmaster was originally created for motorsport enthusiasts, the tachymeter continues to be a nod to its racing roots and a nice reminder that while the Speedmaster may have reached the moon, it was born on the racetrack.
The Speedmaster’s bezel is set on the outskirts of the case, kept nice and thin with a black aluminum insert. It has a wonderful glossy finish and is printed with the tachymeter scale in white. Some Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches feature a dot over the numeral for 90. Often referred to as “DO90”, this feature is a hallmark of early Speedmaster models and is highly prized by collectors for its historical accuracy and connection to the original design.
A Monochromatic Dial
Of course, the most famous dial color for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is the classic black display. Just like the reference to walk the Moon, most modern-day iterations of the design have a black matte finish with white printed markers and a slightly stepped architecture, which you’ll notice when you look at the minute track more closely. The three register displays for the chronograph and small seconds are also sunken for a nice touch of legibility.
The dial hardware isn’t oversized in any way but still offers a good amount of legibility. This is largely due to the contrasting white printing used on many markers and the luminescent material placed on the hands. The iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional logo is always positioned at 12 o’clock.
There are some other dial colors available in the Speedmaster collection, including green, white, silver, and gold. The white-dialed reference 310.30.42.50.04.001 is a personal favorite and a nice twist on the classic black display, switching around the colors for the surface and markers for a bright, legible finish.
Hesalite or Sapphire Crystal?
Understandably, while some of the original Omega Speedmaster watches featured domed Hesalite crystal glass, most of the modern re-interpretations have boasted contemporary scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. But there have been a handful of modern references that have brought back the Hesalite crystal for good reason. One of said references is 310.30.42.50.01.001.
Despite Hesalite being more prone to scratches, it does give the Omega Speedmaster a distinctly vintage finish featuring a higher dome and a very cool engraving of the Omega logo at the center of the crystal – a very small detail that’s fun to spot if you can! Meanwhile, sapphire crystal, although still slightly domed, does have a lower profile on the wrist, plus enhanced scratch resistance.
Ultimately, the choice between Hesalite and sapphire crystals will depend on your personal preferences. Those traditionalists who want an Omega Speedmaster as close to the original Moonwatch as possible will prefer those with Hesalite. On the flip side, those of you who prioritize durability will prefer scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
It’s worth noting there is a small price difference between the two, with the Hesalite models retailing from $6,600 on the solid bracelet and the sapphire models priced at $7,600. The Hesalite references also have closed case backs engraved with the traditional Moonwatch message, while the sapphire crystal iterations keep things modern with a matching sapphire crystal exhibition back that lets you admire the movement inside.
Manual Winding Movements
Another notable change to the Omega Speedmaster over the years is the movement found within. Of course, as the years have gone by, Omega has drastically advanced its technologies for the better, but what’s really impressive is that although the technology has improved, the overall visuals and functionality have remained much the same.
Like the original, the majority of Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches you’ll see are powered by manual-winding movements. These are the mechanical movements that require physical rewinding via the crown every few days.
One of the most used manual calibers in today’s current collection is the Omega 3861. This is a movement with a 50-hour power reserve, an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring, a free-sprung balance, chronograph complication, and chronometer certification.
It’s also one of just a few manual winding movements from Omega that uses a co-axial escapement. This is an escapement system that utilizes three pallets rather than the traditional two, which ultimately reduces sliding friction and increases service interval time. The Omega 3861 is also certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS, which includes more tests and higher standards for accuracy than chronometer certification alone.
Those who opt for an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with an exhibition case back will also be able to admire the architecture of the manual movement inside, which is laid out a lot like the original. It has rhodium plating and Geneva stripes across the bridges. Plus, you can spot some of the 26 jewels.
Leather, Rubber or Metal Strap Options
There are a handful of straps available to order with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. A popular choice is the black rubber strap, which on the surface appears just like any standard black rubber strap with a stainless steel folding buckle, but when off the wrist, you’ll notice the underside is uniquely textured. The reverse surface has a stunning texture reminiscent of the surface of the moon. It’s a really nice touch and a nod to the Speedmaster’s iconic history.
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch can also be ordered on a variety of comfortable NATO straps in several colors. Straps like this really help to elevate its vintage aesthetic. For a dressier look, you might prefer one of the leather straps, whether that be one of the smooth calfskin leather bands, shiny alligator leather, or perforated leather straps.
My personal favorite strap for the Omega Speedmaster is, without surprise, the metal bracelet. The five-row, pebble-like shape of the bracelet links is really beautiful, and the finishing varies depending on whether you opt for a Hesalite or sapphire crystal model. Those with Hesalite crystal are fully brushed, while the sapphire crystal references lean into its modern positioning by including polishing on the two smallest inner links.
Most Popular Omega Speedmaster Models
Now that you know all about the Omega Speedmaster, its history, and some of the defining characteristics that make a Speedmaster a true Speedmaster Moonwatch, you’re probably wondering which, out of the several models on the market, are the most popular. Without further ado, here’s the long-awaited answer…
Of all the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches on this list, this is the one I’d choose for myself. Why? Because this is the closest to the original as it gets. You’re getting the same black tachymeter bezel, 42mm wide steel case, a matte black dial with white printing and lume, and a manual winding movement. It also arrives on the five-row link bracelet and has the sapphire crystal glass on both the front and back. It’s a beautiful watch through and through, and anyone looking to start a watch collection off with a bang can’t go wrong with this, trust me! Price: $8,000
If you love the history behind the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch but you also want something a little dressier – or even a touch flashy -, we recommend the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Moonshine Gold Green Dial. This stunning watch arrives fully engineered from the brand’s 18ct Moonshine gold – which includes the case back, crown, pushers, and bracelet. In contrast, the dial is colored in a deep emerald green to match the green ceramic bezel ring with an Omega Ceragold™ tachymeter scale. Price: $42,600
I already mentioned previously that the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial was another of my favorites. I love how a simple swap of the black and white colors on the dial has transformed a classic looking chronograph into an obvious motorsport-inspired piece. It’s incredibly legible thanks to the jet black hands and numerals and maintains its 42mm wide diameter, steel case, black tachymeter bezel and the 3861 manual winding movement. Price: $8,100.
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional under reference 310.60.42.50.01.001 is another luxury option for those wanting something with a bit of oomph. This time around, it pairs its matte black dial with beautiful rose gold hardware and a matching Sedna™ Gold case and bracelet. I’ve always thought rose gold and black look great together on watches, and this is a perfect example. It’s dressy and sophisticated, yet it still manages to uphold the sporty personality of the Speedmaster name. Price: $42,600.
Last but certainly not least, we have an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional engineered from the Swiss watchmaker’s patented Canopus Gold™ material. This is one of those metals you have to see in person to appreciate. As well as being 100% noble, it boasts a beautiful brilliance and whiteness that makes it stand out against traditional white gold and stainless steel watches. The inclusion of the stepped silver dial gives it an almost completely monochromatic look, with just the black tachymeter scale standing out in a different hue. It’s another beautiful watch worthy of any watch collector’s wish list. Price: $55,500.
Should You Buy An Omega Speedmaster?
I’m not sure there’s an easier question to answer. Yes, you should absolutely buy an Omega Speedmaster – especially those in the dedicated Moonwatch collection. If you’re a watch enthusiast who appreciates brilliant history and exquisite craftsmanship, there are very few watches that will beat this. For many, it’s a “holy grail” watch, completing collections new and old. From its legendary journey to the moon to its mass of impressive technology inside, the Speedmaster will appeal to anyone with a passion for horology.
Omega Speedmaster Pricing & Availability
With there being so many Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches out here, the prices can vary depending on exactly which model you have in mind. The stainless steel references typically retail from around $6,600 while some of the full 18ct gold references with diamonds can sit with a price tag as large as $60,200. If budget is your issue, it’s definitely worth checking out authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces for the latest offers or heading to the second-hand market where you can find steel Speedys for around $4,000.
Conclusion
We hope this deep dive into the Omega Speedmaster has explained exactly why this watch is a true legend in the world of horology. Sure, the Rolex Submariner and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are nice, but none of those can claim to be the first watch to set foot on the moon. And despite it being several decades old, it’s clear the Omega Speedmaster continues to captivate, both with its exciting history and its incredible design. This is a daily-beater watch with a story and plenty of high-tech to boot. What more could you want?
