Author: Charlotte H

Ask any watch collector or self-confessed timepiece enthusiast. We guarantee they’ll be more than happy to talk about mechanical watches, probably for hours, and explain to you just how innovative and breathtaking these timeless pieces are. 

Whether manually wound or powered by the movement of your wrist, mechanical watches have remained a symbol of craftsmanship and precision since their birth. Unlike quartz watches, which rely on a battery, mechanical watches utilize several intricate components to keep time.

So, just in case you’re new to the world of horology – that’s the fancy word for the art of watchmaking – and you don’t have an avid watch connoisseur in your life, let us guide you through all there is to know about mechanical watches including how they work, their history and how best to maintain then.

The Basics of a Mechanical Watch

Ok, so before we get into the nitty-gritty details of how a mechanical watch works, let’s first cover the basics. At the heart of any watch, there is something called a movement. This is the technology used to make the hands tick seamlessly around the dial so you can read the correct time. There are two key types of watch movements: quartz and mechanical.

Quartz watches are those powered by a small battery that needs replacing every couple of years. The battery relies on electricity and the properties of a quartz crystal, allowing quartz watches to be incredibly accurate and low maintenance. Mechanical watches, on the other hand, work completely differently. They don’t use batteries but instead rely on a series of tiny moving parts to keep time.

There are two types of mechanical movements: manual winding and automatic. Manual winding watches need to be wound by hand. You turn the crown (the little knob on the side of the watch), and this winds a component called the mainspring. As the mainspring unwinds, it releases stored energy that powers the movement, keeping the watch ticking. 

Automatic watches work similarly, except they have a small, semi-circular weight inside called a rotor, which winds the mainspring automatically as you wear the watch. The natural motion of your wrist makes the rotor spin, keeping the watch wound without you needing to do anything. If you wear it daily, it’ll keep ticking forever.

It’s these tiny, intricate parts that make a mechanical movement truly special. As you’ve probably realized, the mainspring is one of the most important components, as it’s this that needs winding to power the watch. 

It works by winding up and storing the energy needed to fuel the other components. This energy is then transmitted through the gear train, an escapement and a balance wheel, all of which work together to ensure the watch runs steadily and accurately.

History of Mechanical Watches

Mechanical watches date back centuries, with some of the first recorded mechanical clocks emerging from Europe during the late 13th century. But these were large tower clocks and not the wristwatches we know today. 

It wasn’t until the 16th century that the components of mechanical movements were made small enough to fit into portable, wearable watches. Some of the earliest mechanical watches were powered by a mechanism called the Verge escapement, an innovation that helped watches become more compact and wearable.

The first true mechanical watch was developed by Peter Henlein, a German locksmith, around 1510. His invention, often credited as the first portable timepiece, was a spring-powered pocket watch. However, it was far from accurate— as you’d expect for the world’s first-ever attempt. Instead, these early watches were mostly decorative, meant to showcase wealth rather than tell precise time.

Accuracy in mechanical watches became a major focus in the 18th century. John Harrison, an English carpenter and clockmaker, invented the marine chronometer, which revolutionized timekeeping as we know it. 

His device allowed sailors to determine longitude at sea, a breakthrough in navigation. This leap in precision marked the beginning of mechanical watches being valued not just for their beauty but for their accuracy.

As time went on, mechanical watch movements continued to evolve. The COSC certification (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) was introduced to set a high standard for accuracy in Swiss watches. 

To receive COSC certification, a mechanical watch must meet strict criteria, such as keeping time within -4 to +6 seconds per day, a mark of precision that separates ordinary watches from exceptional ones. Having a COSC-certified watch means you have the confidence your fancy wristwatch has passed several rigorous tests to prove its timekeeping abilities.

Today, mechanical watchmaking has reached entirely new heights with innovations like the Zenith El Primero. Launched in 1969, this has become famed for being the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. It not only automated the winding process but also boasted a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, making it one of the most precise mechanical movements of its time. 

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive is another notable innovation. This engineering marvel has somehow combined the mainspring of a mechanical movement with the electronic regulator of a quartz one. This hybrid technology allows for a completely smooth seconds hand and near-perfect precision.

Operating a Mechanical Movement

Until you’ve seen one up close, it’s difficult to explain just how incredible and innovative mechanical watch movements are. But we’ll try our best! 

These miniature marvels of engineering are powered by hundreds of tiny parts that all work together to keep the time showing on the dial accurate. Let’s break down the key parts of a mechanical watch and see how they work together to create a functioning timepiece.

The Mainspring

Many will agree that the mainspring is the heart of a mechanical watch. It’s a long, thin strip of metal wound tightly into a coil, and its job is to store energy. In a manual winding watch, you wind the watch by turning the crown, which tightens the mainspring. In an automatic watch, the winding happens naturally as you move your wrist, thanks to a rotor inside the watch that spins and winds the spring. 

As the mainspring unwinds, it releases the stored energy. The more tightly it’s wound, the more energy it stores, and the longer the watch can run. A fully wound mainspring can typically power a watch for about 40 hours, though some high-end watches offer much longer power reserves. The energy released by the mainspring powers the entire movement. 

However, it doesn’t release all the energy at once, but it does so slowly, over time. The process of controlling this energy flow is where the rest of the watch’s components come into play.

The Gear Train

Once the mainspring begins to release energy, it sends it through the gear train, a series of small gears that transmit the energy throughout the movement. These gears reduce the speed of the energy unwinding from the mainspring so that the hands on the watch move at the correct speed. 

At the start of the gear train, energy is moving very fast, but by the time it reaches the hands of the watch, it has been slowed down enough to turn the second, minute, and hour hands at their proper speeds. The gear train ensures that one complete rotation of the minute hand happens every 60 minutes and one rotation of the hour hand happens every 12 hours.

The Escapement

The escapement is another super important component of a mechanical watch because it controls the release of energy from the mainspring. Without it, the mainspring would unwind too quickly, and the watch would lose all its energy in seconds. 

The escapement acts almost like a gatekeeper, releasing tiny amounts of energy in controlled intervals. This gives the watch its steady “tick-tock” rhythm. It also works in conjunction with the balance wheel (which we’ll get to next) to regulate the speed at which the gears turn and the hands move.

In most mechanical watches, the escapement consists of two main parts: the escape wheel and the pallet fork. The escape wheel is connected to the gear train, and the pallet fork alternately locks and unlocks it, allowing the wheel to move forward one step at a time. 

Each time the escape wheel moves, a tiny burst of energy is sent to the rest of the movement, allowing the gears to turn in perfect time.

The Balance Wheel

Working closely with the escapement is the balance wheel, which is like the watch’s pendulum. The balance wheel oscillates back and forth at a constant rate, and this regular motion helps the escapement release energy in evenly spaced intervals. Attached to the balance wheel is a tiny, coiled spring called the hairspring or balance spring. 

As the balance wheel swings in one direction, the hairspring tightens. Then, it loosens, pushing the balance wheel back in the opposite direction. This process repeats over and over, giving the watch its rhythm. 

The oscillations of the balance wheel, typically 18,000 to 36,000 beats per hour, determine how quickly the escapement can unlock and release energy. The faster the balance wheel oscillates, the more precise the watch will be.

The Dial Train and Hands

The dial train is a series of gears that takes the controlled energy from the escapement and balance wheel and uses it to drive the hands of the watch. It reduces the speed of the gear train so that the second, minute, and hour hands move at their respective speeds. 

For example, the second hand completes one full rotation every 60 seconds, the minute hand completes one rotation every 60 minutes, and the hour hand completes one rotation every 12 hours. The dial train ensures that these rotations happen precisely and smoothly.

The Rotor (for Automatic Watches)

For automatic watches, there’s an additional component called the rotor. This is a semi-circular weight that spins as you move your wrist, winding the mainspring in the process. The rotor pivots around a central axis, and when it spins, it transfers energy to the mainspring, keeping the watch wound without the need for manual winding. 

The beauty of the rotor is that it uses the natural movement of your body to keep the watch running. If you wear your watch regularly, it will stay wound without you ever having to manually wind it.

The Crown

The crown is the small knob on the side of the watch that you use to wind it manually. In most watches, you can pull the crown out to adjust the time or push it in to wind the mainspring. 

Automatic watches can also be wound manually if the rotor hasn’t wound enough through natural movement. The crown is your main point of interaction with the mechanical movement, and it plays a crucial role in keeping the watch running smoothly.

Mechanical Watch Maintenance Tips

As is the case with any watch, mechanical watches require some love and care to keep them ticking for years. One of the most important and possibly obvious tips we can give you is to keep your mechanical watch wound. 

For many watches, make sure to wind the crown gently once per day, preferably at the same time each day. If you have an automatic watch but you don’t wear it daily, you might want to consider getting a watch winder to keep it running.

Another key tip is to avoid exposure to magnets, as they can affect the watch’s accuracy. Keep your mechanical watch away from electronic devices like smartphones, speakers, and laptops, which emit magnetic fields, as these can mess with those intricate components inside and ultimately ruin the precision and functionality of your timepiece. 

Similarly, we also suggest keeping your watch clean. Wiping it with a soft, dry cloth every now and then will help to prevent any dust, dirt, or sweat from getting into the movement. This will also help keep your watch looking brand new.

Depending on the water resistant rating of your mechanical watch, try to avoid submerging it in water. And even if your watch is water resistant, check the seals periodically. This can also be done when you service your watch, which should be actioned by a professional every 3 to 5 years. 

Over time, the oils inside the movement can dry out, and the tiny gears can wear down, so the regular maintenance provided by a watch service ensures your watch keeps performing at its best.

Conclusion

Hopefully, you can now see why so many of us watch nerds and why we love the beauty and technology of mechanical watches. These little works of art require no battery, but just a selection of finely tuned gears, springs, and wheels to tell the time. 

Whether manually wound or automatic, mechanical watches represent centuries of horological innovation. Sure, they’re not as accurate as quartz watches, but those battery-operated movements lack the artistry, engineering, and history that comes with a true mechanical timepiece.

It feels like watches have been around forever, especially with everyone’s growing love of vintage designs of late. But interestingly, watches aren’t as old as we might think. Compared to so many other human inventions, watches are a relatively recent addition. 

Believe it or not, wristwatches have only been worn for around 100 years. And before that, timekeeping was a little more… creative. 

But how did we go from tracking the time using sundials to wearing sleek, high-precision instruments on our wrists? The history of watches is more fascinating than you might think, with roots that stretch back to humanity’s earliest attempts to measure time. 

From the first mechanical clocks in the 14th century to the miniaturization that allowed for pocket watches, and finally, the wristwatches that became popular in the 20th century, each step of this evolution tells a story of innovation and clever craftsmanship. 

Today, I’ll be taking a closer look at the history of watchmaking, going right back to the beginning to see how it all got started. So, if you’ve just looked down at your wrist and randomly asked yourself when watches were invented, I’ve got you. 

When Was The First Watch Made?

Early humans weren’t exactly checking their watches to make appointments or arrive on time for work like we do. Instead, they typically looked up to the sky and judged the time of day based on where the sun was. It’s why some of the earliest timekeeping instruments were things like the sundial, which goes all the way back to the ancient Egyptians. 

They used the sun’s shadow to mark the passage of time during the day. There were also water clocks (also known as clepsydra), which the Greeks and Chinese used to track time by the steady flow of water. And let’s not forget the trusty hourglass, which appeared in medieval Europe. But more on these devices shortly.

Fast forward to the invention of mechanical clocks, and things start to look a little more familiar. One big leap came in the 17th century with the invention of the pendulum clock by Dutch scientist Christian Huygens. 

This was a major breakthrough because pendulums were way more accurate than anything people had before. But, as cool as pendulum clocks were, they weren’t exactly portable!

Enter Peter Henlein, a German locksmith and clockmaker from the 15th century, who is often credited as the inventor of the first “watch.” Henlein’s creations were called “clock-watches,” and they were small enough to be carried on the body, usually in a pocket, hence the name pocket watch. 

These early pocket watches, made in the 1500s, were the first step toward timekeeping becoming a personal accessory. The thing is, they were luxury items back then, reserved for the rich and fancy. It wasn’t until the late 18th century when the Industrial Revolution kicked in, that pocket watches became more affordable for the general public.

But alas, pocket watches weren’t as handy as some people would have liked. They had to be hung from clothing, usually on a chain, and often required two hands to use—one to hold the watch and the other to open the cover or read the time. 

As people’s lives became busier and more fast-paced, especially during wartime, a more practical solution was needed. So what about a pocket watch… but strapped to the wrist?

When Was The First Wristwatch Created?

It’s argued that the original inventor of the first wristwatch was Abraham-Louis Breguet, a Swiss watchmaker who, in 1810, crafted the very first timepiece designed to be worn on the wrist for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples. 

This wristwatch, however, was quite different from the wristwatches we know today. It was an ornate, delicate piece made for royalty. Truthfully, it was more of a piece of jewelry than a timekeeper.

For much of the 19th century, wristwatches were considered a luxury item and were mainly worn by women. Men, on the other hand, stuck to their trusty pocket watches, which were seen as more masculine and accurate. 

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that wristwatches became more popular, especially for men. World War I played a significant role in this shift, as soldiers needed to quickly check the time in battle without fumbling with a pocket watch. This practicality led to wristwatches being widely adopted by the military and, soon after, by the general public.

The Evolution of Watchmaking 

As we mentioned, Abraham-Louis Breguet crafted the first wristwatch in 1810, but it took some time for these designs to catch on. After World War I, however, wristwatches became the norm, and watchmakers around the world quickly followed suit, designing their own variations. With more brands jumping into the market, competition drove rapid innovation, leading to significant technological advancements. 

One of the biggest innovations came in the early 20th century with the development of automatic movements. In 1923, John Harwood created the first self-winding wristwatch, which used the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist to keep the watch powered without the need for manual winding. 

This was a game-changer for watch wearers since, previously, watches had to be manually wounded by hand. Now, as long as they were never taken off the wrist, they would power indefinitely. 

Then came the quartz revolution. In 1969, Japanese watchmaker Seiko introduced the first quartz wristwatch, which used an electronic oscillator regulated by a quartz crystal. Quartz movements were far more accurate than mechanical ones and much cheaper to produce, leading to the widespread availability of affordable watches. 

This innovation rocked the watchmaking industry for quite some time, and for a short while, it was thought that mechanical movements were gone for good. Thankfully, that wasn’t quite the case! It seems watch wearers now appreciate the precision of quartz and the traditional beauty of mechanical timepieces. 

Of course, today, we’re also in the age of smartwatches. With digital displays, fitness tracking, and even the ability to make calls and send texts, these gadgets prove just how far we’ve come from the sundials of Egyptian times.

How Did People Track Time in the Past?

It’s widely believed that the world’s first timekeeping device was the sundial, with evidence suggesting it was used as far back as ancient Egypt in 1500 BCE. Yes, that’s a long, long time ago. 

For it to work, the Egyptians would place a vertical stick, known as a gnomon, in the ground and observe the shadow it cast to determine the time of day based on the sun’s position. 

As the sun moved across the sky, the shadow shifted, giving a rough estimate of the hour. Sundials were widely used in ancient Greece and Rome as well, but they only worked during daylight hours and, of course, required a sunny day. 

To address the limitations of sundials, ancient civilizations like the Greeks and Chinese developed the water clock, also called a clepsydra. The water clock used the steady flow of water from one container to another to measure the passage of time. 

These clocks were used as early as 4000 BCE in Babylon and Egypt. The Greeks later improved the design, adding gears and scales to make them more accurate. While they could be used during the day and night, they were still prone to inaccuracy due to temperature variations affecting the flow of water. 

Then came the hourglass, also known as a sandglass. This timekeeping device emerged in medieval Europe, though its exact year of invention is unclear. It likely appeared in the 8th century and became popular by the 14th century. 

Hourglasses work by allowing sand to flow from one bulb to another at a steady rate, measuring specific increments of time. Unlike sundials and water clocks, hourglasses were portable and more reliable, but they had to be manually reset after each use.

Conclusion

Timekeeping has come a long way from ancient sundials and water clocks. It was the brilliant Christian Huygens who, in 1656, created the pendulum clock, marking a huge leap in timekeeping accuracy. 

Then, in the early 19th century, master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet designed the first wristwatch, setting the stage for the stylish and practical timepieces we love and wear today. From tracking the sun to wearing time on our wrists, it’s fascinating to see how our need to measure time has shaped history. I wonder what will come next…

Whether you’ve visited the beautiful country of Japan or not, we’re sure there are certain aspects of the culture you are familiar with more than others. Whether it’s the pretty pink cherry blossoms, their colorful and action-packed anime, or the intricate art of origami, it’s clear that Japan’s cultural treasures have captivated hearts around the world. Another aspect of Japanese culture that is well known worldwide is the creation of the katana, a weapon that symbolizes not only strength but also the rich artistry of Japan. 

The Japanese katana is known for its exceptional craftsmanship, taking skilled artisans years to perfect the techniques involved in its creation. 

Each blade is carefully forged from high-carbon steel, with multiple layers folded together to create a resilient yet flexible weapon. The process involves heating, hammering, and tempering, ensuring that every katana possesses a unique combination of beauty and functionality. The curvature of the blade, the precision of the edge, and the intricate designs on the tsuba (guard) all reflect a commitment to artistry and perfection. 

Just as the katana embodies the spirit of Japanese craftsmanship, so does Grand Seiko’s beautiful collection of watches. And, as you’ve probably guessed, today’s model up for review, the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491, is inspired by this legendary weapon with a dial designed to echo the raw materials and distinctive patterns used in the creation of the katana.

Three Katana-Inspired U.S Exclusives 

Just last year, during the summer of 2023, Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko unveiled three new models exclusive to the US market. The trio were all inspired by the elements used in the creation of the katana: earth, fire, water, and air. The process begins with iron sand sourced from the Earth which is then heated in a furnace known as the tatara, using both fire and air. 

As the iron sand melts, it transforms into a type of Japanese steel called tamahagane. From this steel, two distinct forms emerge: kawagane, the high-carbon steel used for the blade’s sharp outer edge, and shingane, the resilient inner core that provides strength. 

The individual metal shards are meticulously stacked and then heated until they glow in vibrant shades of yellow, orange, and red. This glowing mass is forged, folded, and drenched in water, resulting in the inner core being welded securely within the hardened outer shell. The creation of a katana is a rigorous and precise art form, culminating in a sword that is both beautifully balanced and exceptionally functional.

As you’d expect, Grand Seiko has crafted the three katana-inspired Heritage Spring Drive models with the same attention to detail. Their cases are Zaratsu polished, while the dials are meticulously engraved to honor different parts of a katana’s creation. 

The first of the trio is reference SBGA493, which has a bold, deep red dial and yellow gold-colored accents inspired by the heated blade during the forging process. The unique, ultra-deep sunray pattern evokes the sparks that radiate from the hammer every time it strikes the blade. 

The other two models are reference SBGA489 and SBGA491. These offer a slightly different dial design with a super fine-grained finish. Model SBGA489 is colored in a deep gray and is said to be inspired by kawagane, the high-carbon steel used to create the katana. Meanwhile, the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491, the very watch I’m reviewing today, has a beautiful deep green dial inspired by shingane, the inner core of the legendary blade.

A 44GS Case

I’m not sure it would feel quite right for Grand Seiko to release a range of katana-inspired watches that weren’t Zaratsu polished and in the 44GS case architecture. 

Thankfully, the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch is both, with a sharp angled case executed according to their Grammar of Design philosophy inspired by the 44GS watch released in 1967. It’s a design philosophy that places emphasis on simplicity, precision, and beauty, with the case offering beautiful flat surfaces and crisp angles that give the SBGA491 watch a dressy, refined look. 

Every surface looks and feels perfectly produced, and that’s partly due to the high levels of detail that are placed on the finishing – just as the katana requires tremendous skill and detail to create. The majority of the stainless steel surface is polished using a technique Grand Seiko calls Zaratsu polishing. 

This intricate process is renowned for creating a mirror-like finish that enhances the beauty of the metal. Mastering Zaratsu polishing can take up to three years, as artisans must learn to hold the metal against a spinning tin plate at the perfect angle and pressure. It’s a method that not only highlights the intricate details of each piece but ensures a flawless surface that reflects light beautifully. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch also has some satinized surfaces placed along the case sides and lug flanks to create a wonderful contrast, once again adding to the sharp angles and beautiful profile. 

As for dimensions, this release is one that will suit almost any wrist size. It measures to 40mm wide and 12.5mm tall, allowing it to slide effortlessly under the cuff of a dress shirt. There’s also a very reasonable lug-to-lug of 46.2mm. 

You can expect all the modern adornments to complete the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch, including domed sapphire crystal on top, treated to its own layer of anti-reflective coating for exceptional visibility, and a screw down crown positioned at 3 o’clock for a 100-meter water resistance. 

The latter is neatly embossed with the GS logo in relief and knurled for easy manipulation. Turning the timepiece over reveals another layer of sapphire crystal glass for a wonderful view of the beautifully finished Spring Drive movement housed inside.

A Unique Grained Dial 

I’ve been incredibly lucky to witness and wear many Grand Seiko dials over my career, and after having unboxed the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch myself, I have to say this might be one of the most unique and beautiful Grand Seiko dials I have ever seen. 

Yes, I know this is a bold statement, but bear with me. It’s once again one of those dials that is not done justice in the press images. The prominent textured surface has so much more visual complexity up close, and the contrast between the deep olive green and the gold elements is stunning. 

According to Grand Seiko, the dial here is inspired by the resilience and strength of shingane. The unique, deeply-grained texture supposedly evokes the texture in the variations of tamahagane, the “jewel” steel from which traditional katana swords are fashioned. 

Now I have absolutely no experience crafting katana swords, so I am unable to confirm or deny whether the dial reflects what Grand Seiko suggests accurately. But I don’t really care. The dial is absolutely beautiful and delivers a contrast of colors and light play on the wrist that is rare to see anywhere else – especially at this price point. 

Like the case, much of the hardware placed on the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch’s dial is Zaratsu polished. The baton hour markers are beautifully faceted, with polished edges and a brushed center to create a striking contrast that catches the light at various angles. In the same way, the sharp sword-shaped hands are beveled with polished edges and a brushed, streamlined middle. 

I have a feeling one point of divisiveness on this dial will be the gold color used on the power reserve indicator. It’s clear this complication has caused some chaos in the Grand Seiko community for some time, with some adoring the feature while others praying Grand Seiko releases more Spring Drive models without it. 

So, to see the indicator demanding more attention than ever in a new gold hue will likely cause disagreements. That said, I really like it. I think it adds to the opulence of the dial. It’s also not just some plain gold surface either; Grand Seiko has taken their time to add intricate faceted detailing to make it all the more beautiful.

The golden power reserve indicator matches nicely with the gold, hand-applied GS logo at 12 o’clock, which sits above silvered printing for “Grand Seiko” just below it. Similarly, lettering at 6 o’clock is printed to denote the Spring Drive movement housed inside. 

The only other point of interest on the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch’s dial is the date window at 3 o’clock, bordered by its own silvered frame and presented with a black-on-white date disc.

A Spring Drive Movement

Powering the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is, as its name suggests, one of the Japanese watch brand’s Spring Drive movements. The Caliber 9R65 is an in-house hybrid movement that combines the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. 

I won’t go into the technology behind Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement in too much detail but know that it uses a self-winding mechanism, allowing the watch to harness the energy generated by the wearer’s movements while also incorporating a quartz regulator that ensures stable and precise timekeeping.

It basically means you get the beauty of a mechanical movement but with the accuracy of a quartz one. To put it into perspective, even some of the most precise mechanical movements in the world are rated between -4 to +6 seconds per day. 

The Caliber 9R65, however, has an impressive precision of just +/-1 second per day, or +/- 15 seconds per month. The movement also boasts a seamless, continuous sweep of the second hand, enhancing the watch’s aesthetic appeal, and an extended 72-hour long power reserve, which, as mentioned, is displayed on the dial in gold.

Beyond their performance, Spring Drive movements are wonderfully finished, showcasing a range of exquisite finishes that make the open case back worth taking the watch off every once in a while. At first glance, it closely resembles a traditional mechanical movement, and this is no coincidence since many of the mechanical components remain intact. 

It has striking striped bridges and beautiful interior anglage, which enhance the overall elegance of the movement. The continuation of Zaratsu polishing also adds an extra layer of refinement, reflecting light in a way that showcases the meticulous craftsmanship involved.

A Full Metal Bracelet

Completing the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is the bracelet. There’s nothing much to say about this, honestly. It’s not that it’s a bad bracelet by any means, but compared to the attention to detail applied to the case, dial, and movement, the bracelet feels a little obsolete. It’s still a lovely watch strap, though, featuring a classic three-row link architecture with mostly brushed surfaces and a few polished elements to tie in with the case. 

It’s an odd size, offering a lug width of 19mm and tapering down slightly to 18mm as it reaches the clasp. It’s not going to be easy to find many replacement straps with a 19mm lug width, but there are drilled lugs, so once you do find one, swapping it over is easy. 

The links of the bracelet are screwed, and while there is no micro-adjustment, there are two half-links for decent levels of adjustment. As for the clasp, it’s a standard dual push button trigger with the Grand Seiko logo decorating the exterior in relief.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is a pleasure to wear for a number of reasons. The most obvious is that it’s a beautiful watch, and I feel almost honored to wear something that has been designed and crafted so meticulously. Honestly, every aspect of the dial and case feels expensive, and it looks like it should cost more than the price tag suggests. 

The dial, in particular, will no doubt attract attention and be a great conversation starter. The deep-grained finishing, faceted hardware, and golden elements catch the light effortlessly, creating a dynamic visual experience that shifts with every angle. 

It’s also an extremely comfortable watch to wear. The excellent dimensions, including the 40mm width, 12.5mm height, and 46.2mm lug width, means it will wear easily on wrists as low as six inches. For wrists larger than eight inches, you might find it a touch small unless you like the super compact vibe. 

It’s a watch that works as a sports watch (thanks to its water resistance), as a dress watch (thanks to its slim case), and as a daily beater. There’s really no occasion this watch wouldn’t suit.

Price & Availability

Honestly, I can’t quite get over the retail price of the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch. To find a watch engineered to this standard for less than $6,000 is not a common sight. The model retails brand new from authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces for $5,600, and if you’re lucky, you might be able to find preowned examples on the second-hand market for around $5,000. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is also a permanent addition to the Japanese watch manufacturer’s Heritage collection, which means it’s not limited to a specific number of pieces. That said, it is exclusive to the US market, so it’s not as easily accessible as one might hope.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 is undoubtedly one of the finest Spring Drive watches I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing. I’m still amazed by its price tag of $5,600, which, when you consider the in-house Spring Drive movement, the beautifully executed case, and the meticulously detailed dial, feels like an absolute steal. 

Yes, there are more affordable Spring Drive models on the market, but for this level of craftsmanship and attention to detail, I genuinely believe this to be one of the best entry-level options available. It seamlessly blends cutting-edge technology with the elegance and tradition that Grand Seiko is known for, making it a standout piece for any collector.

A close friend of mine is a bigger fan of Grand Seiko than anyone I know. His collection is predominantly filled with models from the brand’s Heritage, Elegance, and Sports families, and he’s often the person I go to when I have any questions or concerns about a particular model. 

It wasn’t all that long ago when we were chatting in-depth about GMTs, and I asked him which dual time-telling model from Grand Seiko would be his go-to recommendation. He mentioned several models, including the Spring Drive-powered SBGE253 and the beautifully dressy and impressively affordable SBGM221.

But the watch he spoke most passionately about was the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch. He described it as one of the best GMT sports watches on the market, being wearable, attractive, and well-priced for the list of specs that are included. 

So, of course, as any watch-obsessed writer would, I went out to find the watch for myself and tried it for a full week to see if it was really as good as he suggested. So here I am, reviewing the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245…

When Was the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 Released?

I’m not sure how it happened, but the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch was one of those releases that flew under the radar for me. I don’t know what other watches were being released at the same time, but it must have been something good for me to not have noticed a new GMT model from Grand Seiko. 

The design was first launched in 2021, towards the end of the year, and joined the Japanese watch brand’s collection alongside an equally attractive olive green-dialed variant.

Grand Seiko has never had a shortage of GMT models in their arsenal, but some of the most compact references were those with quartz movements. Now, don’t get me wrong, I love quartz watches – especially those by Grand Seiko – but if budget allows, I will always choose a mechanical timepiece. I’m a sucker for the craftsmanship and complexity that goes into a mechanical movement. 

But, the majority of Grand Seiko’s mechanical GMTs were a little large in size, typically measuring around 44mm in diameter. But with the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch and its green-faced counterpart, you’re getting both a mechanical movement and a compact set of case dimensions.

A Sporty but Compact Case

Sports watches, GMT watches, and sport GMT watches are typically large with statement dimensions to make an impact. This is fine if you have the wrist real estate to pull it off, but alas, with my five-and-a-half inch wrist, I’ve always found shopping for a solid sports watch incredibly difficult. So, when I saw the dimensions of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch, I was over the moon. Finally, a sports GMT model that I could wear! 

Its dimensions include a 40.5mm width and a lug-to-lug of 48.6mm. On my wrist, it sits really nicely. It gives off that oversized sports watch aesthetic – something I absolutely love – with the short, downward-turned lugs helping to keep the watch nice and close to the skin. It’s a relatively thick watch, at 14.4mm tall, but it’s what you’d expect from a watch of this genre. 

At the end of the day, it’s a sports watch, not a dress watch, and we’ve got to take into account the prominent bezel, which gives the design so much of its personality, and the movement inside, which includes an extra layer of hardware for the GMT hand. That said, I can still imagine this watch sliding under the cuff of a dress shirt, as long as it’s one that’s not too tight. 

Despite this being one of Grand Seiko’s entry-level mechanical sport GMT watches, the finishing of the stainless steel case is exceptional. It delivers the same high levels of attention to detail as some of their more expensive models. It has satin-brushed finishing on the lug hoods and bright polishing on the case flanks. A beautiful sharp bevel separates the lugs from the case sides to help add to the watch’s sporty, streamlined architecture. 

This bevel, along with the case flanks, are brilliantly polished using Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing technique. Also known as black polish, this is a high-end finishing that requires talented artisans who have trained for three years to meticulously hand polish the steel by holding it against a spinning tin plate. It’s a complex process, but one that delivers an exceptional mirror-like shine.

Giving the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch its tool-like personality is the bezel placed atop. Finished in matching stainless steel, the polished and satinized surface is handsomely etched with black-colored numerals for the 24-hour scale. If you still question this watch’s sportiness, know that it also comes with a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock and a closed case back offering a 200-meter water resistance. 

A Hand-Finished Dial

Every piece of shiny hardware seen on the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch’s dial is hand-finished, like the case. These lovely little pieces of dial furniture are once again polished by hand using diamond-tipped milling tools to create this lustrous shine. 

The hardware isn’t just singularly treated either but features brushing and polishing on the same component to create this wonderful visual effect of light play. For example, the hands at the center have beveled and polished edges and satinated centers, adding to their sharp and aggressive aesthetic. Similarly, the hour markers are faceted and boast their own combination of polishing and brushed finishing.

The hardware, all of which is also placed entirely by hand, sits on a gorgeous sunburst blue dial that plays with the lighting conditions depending on how you angle your wrist. One minute, the color is a rich navy blue; the next, it’s almost jet black. 

Even in the dark, the dial impresses with a generous amount of Lumibrite (Grand Seiko’s go-to luminous material) added to the hands and the four markers at each cardinal point. At night, these elements glow a rich green, providing you with effortless legibility no matter your surroundings.

The central GMT hand, finished in bright red for exceptional contrast, has its own arrow-shaped luminous tip. Its color pairs with the GMT text at 6 o’clock, also printed in red sitting beside white lettering to denote its automatic movement. 

Working with this complication is the sloped flange around the dial’s center, which is printed with a second24-hourr scale and has a dual-toned backdrop to showcase the day hours in silver and the night hours in navy blue. 

The only other features of the dial I’m yet to mention include the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock and the date window positioned at 4 o’clock. I appreciate the integration of the date window where the 4 o’clock hour marker should be, plus the nicely polished border. But would this dial look better without a date? Yes, I think so. Or at least let’s incorporate a blue date wheel to allow it to blend into the dial design a little more subtly.

An In-House Movement

As mentioned, the case back of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch is closed. It’s a shame, as I always love to see the workings of a mechanical movement, but we do have to keep in mind that its closed nature helps to assist in its healthy 200-meter water resistance. The case back is nicely decorated, showcasing a lovely beaded border and the Grand Seiko lion logo at the center in relief.

The exact movement hiding behind this steel component is the Caliber 9S66 automatic winding movement. It’s a movement made entirely in-house by Grand Seiko and regulated in their own facilities, promising an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. To receive this rating, the movement has been measured in six positions and placed under stress in artificially controlled environments for 12 days.

We’re promised a 72-hour power reserve, so you can easily take this watch off on Friday and put it back on Monday morning without worrying about lost time. It also pivots on 35 jewels, has stop seconds, and, of course, the added date and GMT complications for improved functionality.

Straps

There is beautiful satin-brushed finishing across the top and conforming end links for a comfortable fit. I’ve always liked the slight rolled bevel on these Grand Seiko bracelets. They have a lovely polished outer surface, giving the watch a contemporary look. 

The links are screw fixed and can be removed to achieve a more accurate fit. To help, there are several half links on either side, plus micro-adjustment holes on the stamped clasp. The twin push button release clasp is effortless to use and is nicely presented with the GS logo in relief. 

There’s a 20mm space between the drilled lugs, so finding and changing out alternative straps for the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch is made easy. If you’re like me and you have relatively small wrists, note that this will wear even more compactly on a strap rather than a bracelet.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 is a fantastic watch that wears surprisingly comfortably for its size. With a 40.5mm width, it’s one of the most compact GMT sports watches out there, which is a huge plus for folks like me with smaller wrists—I’m rocking a five-and-a-half-inch wrist, and even though it’s a big watch, I love that oversized look. 

If your wrists are around six inches or more, this watch will fit perfectly; any smaller, and you might find it feels a bit too large. Any bigger than eight inches, and you might find it too small.

The 14.4mm height does make it thicker than your average dress watch, as it houses that impressive GMT movement. But don’t worry—it’s not so thick that you can’t slip it under a dress shirt. 

While this is definitely a tool watch and not a dress watch, I can still see it dressed up for formal occasions, too. The angled lugs and conforming end links of the bracelet make it super comfortable to wear all day, whether you’re at the office or out on an adventure. Overall, this watch strikes a great balance between functionality and style.

Price & Availability

Retailing for $5,700, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch has become one of the Japanese watchmakers’ entry-level mechanical GMT sports watches. It’s incredibly well-priced for the high levels of case and dial finishing and technology going on inside. 

It’s a permanent piece in their collection, meaning it’s not limited to a specific set of pieces, but since it has been out on the market since 2021, it might not be a model that stays around for much longer.

If you choose to order the design, please ensure it’s through an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces so you can feel confident you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty.  Alternatively, you may be able to find it on the second-hand market for around $3,500 to $4,000.

Conclusion

Following my friend’s advice has never let me down, and after reviewing the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 at his suggestion, I can confirm he’s one to trust yet again. This watch is beautifully executed in every way. The case is sporty and streamlined, making it incredibly comfortable to wear, allowing even those of us with smaller-than-average wrists to enjoy the statement that comes with a sporty GMT watch.

What truly sets this watch apart, though, is the exceptional hand-finishing. In a world where many luxury watches skimp on this detail, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 stands out. 

Most watch collectors, myself included, own a dive watch but have never actually dived with it. It’s more of a style statement than a piece of actual dive gear, and there’s something reassuring knowing your timepiece can withstand high pressures of water – just in case you spontaneously decide to dive headfirst into a pool. 

Alternatively, you might actually be one of those rare collectors who does dive, or maybe you’re not even a collector at all—just a real, seasoned diver looking for something reliable. If so, then the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this past week might just be the perfect watch for you. It’s not just about looking good (although if you’re like me and you do just enjoy a timeless dive watch aesthetic, it nails that, too), but this has a list of specs that promises a watch that performs.

Grand Seiko’s Background in Dive Watches

Grand Seiko has been around for over half a century, founded in 1960, and yet it wasn’t until 2008 that the Japanese watchmaker debuted their first dive watch. It included reference SBGA029, a stainless steel model, and reference SBGA031, done in titanium. 

Both were powered by the company’s legendary 9R65 Spring Drive movement, perfectly combining the ruggedness of a serious dive watch with the unprecedented precision of their Spring Drive technology. This unique movement, combining mechanical precision with quartz accuracy, gave their dive watches an edge in both reliability and performance, letting them contend in a saturated and highly competitive market.

In more recent years, Grand Seiko has also impressed with its Hi-Beat Diver models, which specifically target wearers who appreciate a higher frequency mechanical movement, offering greater accuracy and a more responsive feel. The brand has long been a strong contender in the sports watch market, so it’s no surprise that their dive watch collection is packed with high-performing, top-tier models.

One of their standout recent releases of recent years is the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 200m Diver SBGH289, launched in 2021 alongside its black-dialed counterpart, the SBGH291. These models lean more toward recreational diving, offering a slightly less rugged and oversized design, perfect for both underwater performance and casual weekend wear. 

They’re versatile and stylish, and still maintain the Grand Seiko reputation for excellence in craftsmanship and functionality. After wearing the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 for the past week, here are my thoughts…

A Solid, Water Resistant Case

No matter how hard I try, I can’t help but have preconceptions about a watch before it even lands on my desk for review. With the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289, despite the relatively compact dimensions listed on the GS website (at least, for a dive watch), I was convinced it was going to feel big—maybe even too big for my wrist. But, as usual, my assumptions were quickly proven wrong. 

Once I had it on, the watch felt perfectly balanced, with the sleek case design and smart proportions making it surprisingly comfortable. It manages to strike that rare balance between being substantial enough to feel like a true dive watch without overwhelming the wrist. It’s a perfect reminder that you can’t always judge a watch by its specs alone. 

Dimensions are made up of a 43.8mm width and a lug-to-lug of 51mm. It also has a thickness of 14.7mm which again feels much lower on the wrist than the numbers suggest. It should, as long as your shirt cuff isn’t too tight, slip easily under most dress shirts. The short but broad lugs that sloped downwards help to keep the case compact on the wrist while the bezel and sapphire crystal glass add to its height. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is engineered from stainless steel and, in typical Grand Seiko style, features a nice combination of finishes. The case sides feature a black polish, also known as Zaratsu polishing in GS’s dictionary. 

It’s a process that is done completely by hand and requires several years of training to master. The metal is held against a spinning tinplate to create a breathtaking mirror polish. It looks incredibly good on a dress watch, and in this case, a sports watch.  There’s also a small bit of bevelling along the side of the case, adding to its sleek architecture and satin-brushed finishing applied on the lug hoods. 

Up top, the bezel has its own stainless steel ring with knurled detailing for easy grip, even with wet hands or while wearing thick diving gloves. Sadly, the bezel is not ceramic, which is something you’d expect at this price point. In fact, Grand Seiko doesn’t specify exactly what the material is, but to me, it appears to be ADLC, aka Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon. 

It’s still a super scratch-resistant and glossy material that won’t shatter like a ceramic will. Grand Seiko has also suggested it’s been treated with a special hard coating so that durability is increased further. What I really love about the bezel is how silky and smooth it feels to turn. It’s a pleasure to set with an accurate 120-click action. The insert is a glossy black and has a 60-minute diver’s scale engraved in white around the circumference. A luminous pip is also added at 12 o’clock. 

At 3 o’clock, there’s a screw down crown nicely recessed into the case and protected by prominent crown guards. The case back is also screwed down, allowing for a healthy water-resistant rating of 200 meters. It’s the perfect level of water pressure protection for most recreational diving, whether you’re snorkeling, swimming, or going for a shallow dive. 

Even if you’re not planning on deep-sea adventures, 200 meters of water resistance means you never have to worry about everyday splashes, rain, or even taking it in the shower. It’s more than enough for casual divers or anyone who simply enjoys the peace of mind that comes with a robust, well-engineered dive watch. 

A Deep Navy Dial 

Like the pip on the bezel at 12 o’clock, much of the hardware on the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch glows bright green in the dark. I’ve always loved the unusual combination of hands-on Grand Seiko’s dive watches, and the unique setup is made all the more obvious when the hands glow brilliantly at night. 

There’s a modern and broad arrow-tipped minute hand, a lollipop seconds hand, and a vintage-inspired cathedral hour hand. It might not be a combination of hardware suited to every taste, but I love it, and it really highlights Grand Seiko’s proficiency in bringing together traditional watchmaking techniques with modern ones. 

The dial has a gorgeous glossy blue finish that appears a deep royal blue in some lights and almost black in others. The rounded and baton-shaped hour markers are also generously decorated in Lumibrite for glow-in-the-dark capability and are hand-finished and brightly polished for an upscale look. 

It’s a relatively simple and standard dial layout, but the finishing of the hardware makes the dial look and feel more luxurious than any other standard dive watch. The date window at 3 o’clock, which replaces the hour marker here, also has its own polished border and a black-on-white date disc.

The only other notes of reference on the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch’s dial are the sloped navy seconds scale around the furthest edge and the applied Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock. 

There’s also some lettering printed for Grand Seiko below the applied logo and several lines of text to denote the watch’s water resistance and movement at 6 o’clock. You could argue the text here could be reduced by a line or two to make the dial feel less cluttered, but since this is a time-and-date watch, after all, it doesn’t feel excessive.

A Hi-Beat Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is the Caliber 9S86 Hi-Beat movement. It’s automatic winding with manual winding capacity and is best characterized – and named after – by its high frequency of 5Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour. It also has a 55-hour power reserve, a quick set date, and hacking seconds. It’s also one of Grand Seiko’s most finely regulated movements, claiming an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds a day. That’s an accuracy well within chronometer standards (-4 to +6 seconds a day).

Thanks to its higher frequency, the seconds hand glides with a noticeably smoother sweep compared to standard mechanical watches running at 28,800 vph. While it may not achieve the ultra-smooth flow of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movements, it still offers a wonderfully fluid motion and a subtle, satisfying tick that’s a pleasure to see and hear.

A Solid Metal Bracelet

The bracelet of the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is really nice and has a lot going for it. It has a lovely conforming end link which sits flush to the bracelet. There’s nothing worse than a metal bracelet that leaves a gap, even one small, between the bracelet and the case. 

That’s not a problem here, though. It has a modern look with a three-link architecture and wide spacing between the lugs. The bracelet does have a slight taper, decreasing ever so slightly the closer it gets to the folding buckle.

Like the case, the bracelet’s stainless steel surface has a combination of polished and satin-brushed finishing. The edges of the links have beautiful, rolled bevels with polishing, while the central links are tipped by edges that are also polished.

Annoyingly, the links are fixed with pins instead of screws, which is unusual for a Grand Seiko’s stainless steel model – we’ve seen this with some of their titanium models, but rarely those made from classic steel. It would have been better to have seen screws here, but changing out links is still easy and requires few tools.

That said, there likely won’t be many links to remove since there are plenty of micro-adjustment options on the buckle. There are four micro-adjust holes equipped on the buckle and a diver’s extension, so you can make super accurate amendments. 

The dive extension is particularly useful, as it can be done on the go while the watch is on the wrist. You just lift the two tabs on the buckle to adjust the sizing. It means you can adjust the length even while around marine environments without the worry you’ll drop it in the water! 

The buckle itself has a twin trigger release for added security and is nicely embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. If you’d rather wear – or dive – in a water-resistant strap like a rubber watch band, then the 22mm lug width and drilled lugs make shopping and changing out the strap a breeze.

On-Wrist Experience

Despite its seemingly large dimensions, I’m thoroughly impressed with how the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 wears. The short, angled lugs are thoughtfully designed to hug the wrist, giving it a surprisingly comfortable fit. In fact, I think it could work on wrists as small as six inches, as long as you don’t mind the oversized look. 

That said, I’d recommend it for wrists between six-and-a-half and eight inches for the best balance of size and proportion. The only drawback is the use of stainless steel, which adds a bit of heft and makes it feel slightly heavier than you might expect. However, the extra weight doesn’t make it too cumbersome; it still wears well and feels solid without being overbearing, making it a good choice for those who appreciate a more substantial dive watch.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is a permanent addition to the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio, meaning that it’s a non-limited edition and doesn’t appear to be leaving the collection anytime soon. It retails for $7,300 brand new when ordered from authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. 

It’s always worth purchasing your watches through authorized retailers like this, as you’ll have the reassurance that you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. You can also find the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 on the second-hand market, averaging between $4,000 and $5,000.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 is a fantastic dive watch that feels robust, reliable, and built to last. The case is surprisingly compact despite its listed dimensions, and it’s impressive how well Grand Seiko has managed to pull off a watch that’s both functional and attractive – especially at this price. The bezel and deep blue dial are also well executed and feel right at home alongside much more expensive dive watches. I will always love the unique combination of hand styles, too. In my opinion, you’ll not find a comparable Swiss-made dive watch with this level of hand-finishing and technology. I’m happy to recommend it to anyone who loves the look of a dive watch or genuinely wants something robust and reliable that can join you under the waves.