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Omega Speedmaster Review

Posted on September 16, 2024September 16, 2024 by Charlotte H

In the vast and often complex world of horology, there are only a few watches I’d seriously consider “holy grail” pieces. These are those rare gems that have not only left an indelible mark on history but continue to inspire watchmakers around the globe to create their own adaptations. They’re not just watches that tell the time but watches that are legendary for their interpretation of time. One such icon is the Omega Speedmaster.

This legendary black-dialed chronograph with its thin tachymeter bezel and five-row link bracelet has cemented itself a place in the pantheon of watchmaking greatness. The story of its birth is worthy of history books, and it has become a symbol of ingenuity, adventure, and timeless style. But, even today, years after its creation, this is a watch that remains high up on watch collector’s bucket lists.

About The Omega Speedmaster

I’m not really much of a chronograph wearer – mainly because they’re usually too big for my small wrists. And yet, if someone offered me an Omega Speedmaster watch, I’d take it in a heartbeat.

The model, first released in 1957, has quite easily become one of the main cornerstones in the world of chronographs and tool watches. Funnily enough, it was originally designed as a sports and racing chronograph, and its clean, functional design set it apart from other watches of that era. However, its history extended far beyond the race track, eventually becoming the first watch on the moon – but more on that shortly.

The Omega Speedmaster’s most defining features include its striking black dial, which provides excellent contrast and readability of its chronograph function, and the thin black tachymeter bezel that allows you to measure speed based on elapsed time.

There’s also often a five-link bracelet, adding both comfort and a handsome vintage appearance to the overall aesthetic, and a beautifully curved stainless steel case measuring 42mm wide.

History of Omega Speedmaster Watches

As mentioned, the story of the Omega Speedmaster began in 1957, starting with the introduction of the Speedmaster Ref. CK2915. It was originally designed as a sports and racing chronograph aiming to meet the needs of professional drivers – and, of course, watch enthusiasts who simply appreciate the adrenaline that goes with the racetrack.

Ironically, despite being a perfectly capable racing chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster didn’t find much success in its early years. In fact, it took half a decade and a rather significant journey into space to make that happen.

In 1962, NASA launched the Apollo program, a set of missions that planned to land humans on the moon for the first time and bring them back to Earth safely. A year later, NASA began their search for a watch that was reliable, durable, and legible enough to suit their astronauts in space. It would serve as the official watch of the Apollo program. In the end, four brands took their shot – Omega, Longines-Wittnauer, Rolex, and Hamilton.

As you’ve probably guessed, the only watch to pass the rigorous testing for use in space missions was the Omega Speedmaster, and its selection led it to become the official watch of the Apollo missions. The watch became no stranger to zero gravity and was most famously used by all three astronauts during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. This included Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, who made history as the first humans to walk on the moon. And, of course, that made the Omega Speedmaster the first watch on the moon.

This historic event cemented the Omega Speedmaster as a legend and earned it its well-known nickname the “Moonwatch”. The exact reference to make it onto the moon’s surface was reference 105.012, boasting the very same 42mm wide steel case, black chronograph dial with luminous inserts, and thin tachymeter bezel familiar to all modern-day references. It also featured a manual-winding movement and vintage Hesalite crystal.

It’s no surprise that as the years went on, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch collection expanded to include new variations and technological improvements. One of the biggest upgrades was the introduction of the “Professional” designation, which further solidified its connection to space missions and professional use.

In the 1990s and early 2000s, Omega continued innovating while carefully respecting the Speedmaster’s heritage. Maintaining all the core characteristics of the original designs, such as the Speedmaster Professional “Moonphase” and the Speedmaster Reduced, brought new functionality and design variations to the collection. The brand also introduced the “Co-Axial” movement for enhanced precision and durability.

Sure, the original reference 105.012 will always be the “true” Moonwatch, but the models that have come after it are just as important. They are all deeply rooted in the original’s history, boasting all the essential features that make an Omega Speedmaster an Omega Speedmaster. They have just embraced modern advancements to ensure the design remains a relevant and sought-after timepiece.

Omega Speedmaster: In-Depth Review

As we’ve mentioned, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has been engineered in a number of different styles, but more often than not, they have a set few characteristics in common. Here are some of the essential features you can expect to find in an Omega Speedmaster.

A 42mm Steel Case

Other than a handful of the first Omega Speedmaster watches released (including the first reference CK2915 made for the racetrack), every true Moonwatch since has had a case size of 42mm. The inaugural models came in a little smaller – something typical of the time – measuring to 38.6mm and later 39.7mm. But in 1969, with the creation of the Omega Speedmaster that would make it onto the moon’s surface, the lyre lugs and crown guards increased the diameter of the watch to 42mm. And it’s been that way ever since.

Similarly, the rest of the dimensions have barely changed. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional typically boasts a thickness of around 13mm, a lug-to-lug of 47mm, and a lug width of 20mm. It’s a really nice set of dimensions, allowing the watch to suit wrists anywhere from 6 inches and above. There are other Speedmasters that are smaller, but it’s worth noting these aren’t classed as “Moonwatches”.

The overall case shape is another permanent fixture, with the turned lug design borrowed from the classic Speedmaster’s silhouette. In the same way, the crown and chronograph pushers are placed in a traditional position, all recessed into the case just slightly for added durability. The crown is non-screwed down but does still warrant a 50-meter water-resistant rating.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is most commonly found with a classic stainless steel case. The finishing is beautiful; it has brushed sides and high polish on the case and lug tops. There are also a handful of Moonwatch references in the Swiss watchmaker’s current collection made using their Sedna™, Canopus, or Moonshine Gold, a proprietary alloy developed by Omega.

The material offers a rich, long-lasting gold color and looks particularly stunning with the Speedmaster’s classic black dial. In some cases, gold is used for the entire case and bracelet, and in other instances, Omega has combined Sedna or Moonshine Gold with stainless steel for a cool two-toned finish. Although these models are beautiful for me, the classic stainless steel Speedmaster will always be my favorite.

A Black Tachymeter Bezel

Possibly one of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional’s most defining characteristics is its tachymeter bezel. Most other space-inspired watches, or even tool watches for that matter, don’t have a tachymeter bezel because it’s used for measuring speed, typically related to the speed of a car on the racetrack. But since the Speedmaster was originally created for motorsport enthusiasts, the tachymeter continues to be a nod to its racing roots and a nice reminder that while the Speedmaster may have reached the moon, it was born on the racetrack.

The Speedmaster’s bezel is set on the outskirts of the case, kept nice and thin with a black aluminum insert. It has a wonderful glossy finish and is printed with the tachymeter scale in white. Some Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches feature a dot over the numeral for 90. Often referred to as “DO90”, this feature is a hallmark of early Speedmaster models and is highly prized by collectors for its historical accuracy and connection to the original design.

A Monochromatic Dial

Of course, the most famous dial color for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is the classic black display. Just like the reference to walk the Moon, most modern-day iterations of the design have a black matte finish with white printed markers and a slightly stepped architecture, which you’ll notice when you look at the minute track more closely. The three register displays for the chronograph and small seconds are also sunken for a nice touch of legibility.

The dial hardware isn’t oversized in any way but still offers a good amount of legibility. This is largely due to the contrasting white printing used on many markers and the luminescent material placed on the hands. The iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional logo is always positioned at 12 o’clock.

There are some other dial colors available in the Speedmaster collection, including green, white, silver, and gold. The white-dialed reference 310.30.42.50.04.001 is a personal favorite and a nice twist on the classic black display, switching around the colors for the surface and markers for a bright, legible finish.

Hesalite or Sapphire Crystal?

Understandably, while some of the original Omega Speedmaster watches featured domed Hesalite crystal glass, most of the modern re-interpretations have boasted contemporary scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. But there have been a handful of modern references that have brought back the Hesalite crystal for good reason. One of said references is 310.30.42.50.01.001.

Despite Hesalite being more prone to scratches, it does give the Omega Speedmaster a distinctly vintage finish featuring a higher dome and a very cool engraving of the Omega logo at the center of the crystal – a very small detail that’s fun to spot if you can! Meanwhile, sapphire crystal, although still slightly domed, does have a lower profile on the wrist, plus enhanced scratch resistance.

Ultimately, the choice between Hesalite and sapphire crystals will depend on your personal preferences. Those traditionalists who want an Omega Speedmaster as close to the original Moonwatch as possible will prefer those with Hesalite. On the flip side, those of you who prioritize durability will prefer scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

It’s worth noting there is a small price difference between the two, with the Hesalite models retailing from $6,600 on the solid bracelet and the sapphire models priced at $7,600. The Hesalite references also have closed case backs engraved with the traditional Moonwatch message, while the sapphire crystal iterations keep things modern with a matching sapphire crystal exhibition back that lets you admire the movement inside.

Manual Winding Movements

Another notable change to the Omega Speedmaster over the years is the movement found within. Of course, as the years have gone by, Omega has drastically advanced its technologies for the better, but what’s really impressive is that although the technology has improved, the overall visuals and functionality have remained much the same.

Like the original, the majority of Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches you’ll see are powered by manual-winding movements. These are the mechanical movements that require physical rewinding via the crown every few days.

One of the most used manual calibers in today’s current collection is the Omega 3861. This is a movement with a 50-hour power reserve, an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring, a free-sprung balance, chronograph complication, and chronometer certification.

It’s also one of just a few manual winding movements from Omega that uses a co-axial escapement. This is an escapement system that utilizes three pallets rather than the traditional two, which ultimately reduces sliding friction and increases service interval time. The Omega 3861 is also certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS, which includes more tests and higher standards for accuracy than chronometer certification alone.

Those who opt for an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with an exhibition case back will also be able to admire the architecture of the manual movement inside, which is laid out a lot like the original. It has rhodium plating and Geneva stripes across the bridges. Plus, you can spot some of the 26 jewels.

Leather, Rubber or Metal Strap Options

There are a handful of straps available to order with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. A popular choice is the black rubber strap, which on the surface appears just like any standard black rubber strap with a stainless steel folding buckle, but when off the wrist, you’ll notice the underside is uniquely textured. The reverse surface has a stunning texture reminiscent of the surface of the moon. It’s a really nice touch and a nod to the Speedmaster’s iconic history.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch can also be ordered on a variety of comfortable NATO straps in several colors. Straps like this really help to elevate its vintage aesthetic. For a dressier look, you might prefer one of the leather straps, whether that be one of the smooth calfskin leather bands, shiny alligator leather, or perforated leather straps.

My personal favorite strap for the Omega Speedmaster is, without surprise, the metal bracelet. The five-row, pebble-like shape of the bracelet links is really beautiful, and the finishing varies depending on whether you opt for a Hesalite or sapphire crystal model. Those with Hesalite crystal are fully brushed, while the sapphire crystal references lean into its modern positioning by including polishing on the two smallest inner links.

Most Popular Omega Speedmaster Models

Now that you know all about the Omega Speedmaster, its history, and some of the defining characteristics that make a Speedmaster a true Speedmaster Moonwatch, you’re probably wondering which, out of the several models on the market, are the most popular. Without further ado, here’s the long-awaited answer…

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)

Of all the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches on this list, this is the one I’d choose for myself. Why? Because this is the closest to the original as it gets. You’re getting the same black tachymeter bezel, 42mm wide steel case, a matte black dial with white printing and lume, and a manual winding movement. It also arrives on the five-row link bracelet and has the sapphire crystal glass on both the front and back. It’s a beautiful watch through and through, and anyone looking to start a watch collection off with a bang can’t go wrong with this, trust me! Price: $8,000

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Moonshine Gold Green Dial on Bracelet (ref. 310.60.42.50.10.001)

If you love the history behind the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch but you also want something a little dressier – or even a touch flashy -, we recommend the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Moonshine Gold Green Dial. This stunning watch arrives fully engineered from the brand’s 18ct Moonshine gold – which includes the case back, crown, pushers, and bracelet. In contrast, the dial is colored in a deep emerald green to match the green ceramic bezel ring with an Omega Ceragold™ tachymeter scale. Price: $42,600

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial (ref. 310.30.42.50.04.001)

I already mentioned previously that the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial was another of my favorites. I love how a simple swap of the black and white colors on the dial has transformed a classic looking chronograph into an obvious motorsport-inspired piece. It’s incredibly legible thanks to the jet black hands and numerals and maintains its 42mm wide diameter, steel case, black tachymeter bezel and the 3861 manual winding movement. Price: $8,100.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer Black Dial on Bracelet (ref. 310.60.42.50.01.001)

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional under reference 310.60.42.50.01.001 is another luxury option for those wanting something with a bit of oomph. This time around, it pairs its matte black dial with beautiful rose gold hardware and a matching Sedna™ Gold case and bracelet. I’ve always thought rose gold and black look great together on watches, and this is a perfect example. It’s dressy and sophisticated, yet it still manages to uphold the sporty personality of the Speedmaster name. Price: $42,600.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph Canopus Gold (ref. 310.60.42.50.02.001)

Last but certainly not least, we have an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional engineered from the Swiss watchmaker’s patented Canopus Gold™ material. This is one of those metals you have to see in person to appreciate. As well as being 100% noble, it boasts a beautiful brilliance and whiteness that makes it stand out against traditional white gold and stainless steel watches. The inclusion of the stepped silver dial gives it an almost completely monochromatic look, with just the black tachymeter scale standing out in a different hue. It’s another beautiful watch worthy of any watch collector’s wish list. Price: $55,500.

Should You Buy An Omega Speedmaster?

I’m not sure there’s an easier question to answer. Yes, you should absolutely buy an Omega Speedmaster – especially those in the dedicated Moonwatch collection. If you’re a watch enthusiast who appreciates brilliant history and exquisite craftsmanship, there are very few watches that will beat this. For many, it’s a “holy grail” watch, completing collections new and old. From its legendary journey to the moon to its mass of impressive technology inside, the Speedmaster will appeal to anyone with a passion for horology.

Omega Speedmaster Pricing & Availability

With there being so many Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches out here, the prices can vary depending on exactly which model you have in mind. The stainless steel references typically retail from around $6,600 while some of the full 18ct gold references with diamonds can sit with a price tag as large as $60,200. If budget is your issue, it’s definitely worth checking out authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces for the latest offers or heading to the second-hand market where you can find steel Speedys for around $4,000.

Conclusion

We hope this deep dive into the Omega Speedmaster has explained exactly why this watch is a true legend in the world of horology. Sure, the Rolex Submariner and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are nice, but none of those can claim to be the first watch to set foot on the moon. And despite it being several decades old, it’s clear the Omega Speedmaster continues to captivate, both with its exciting history and its incredible design. This is a daily-beater watch with a story and plenty of high-tech to boot. What more could you want?

Omega Seamaster 300 Review

Posted on September 13, 2024September 13, 2024 by Charlotte H

Almost everyone has heard of Omega. You don’t need to be a timepiece connoisseur to be familiar with the Greek letter logo or their storied history; it’s clear Omega’s reputation for precision and luxury extends far beyond the realm of us watch enthusiasts. Part of the reason is the extensive selection of models they have in their portfolio.

The Omega Speedmaster will forever have a place in history as the first watch on the moon, while their Constellation series speaks to those with a love of carefully considered dress watches with tech to match.

Then there’s the Omega Speedmaster collection, a range of durable dive watches renowned for their impeccable design and engineering. With features like robust, water-resistant cases, Master Chronometer-certified movements, and legible, luminous dials, it’s no wonder the Seamaster has captured the hearts of both divers and watch collectors alike.

About The Omega Seamaster 300

Omega Seamaster Diver Chonograph in Blue

The Omega Seamaster collection alone is extensive, but of all the sub-families within it, it’s clear that the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is a best-seller – and for good reason. The model was first released in 1993 and became quickly known as a solid, easy-to-wear dive watch. In fact, thanks to its durable 300-meter-resistant case, ratcheted bezel, and luminous dial, it was one of the few watches to set the standards for diving timepieces in the 90’s.

Two of its most important features are its unidirectional rotating bezel and helium escape valve. The former allows divers to measure elapsed dive time while under the waves, ensuring they constantly monitor how much oxygen and dive time they have left. Equally, the helium escape valve maintains the Seamaster’s impressive 300-meter water-resistant rating, allowing you to confidently take the watch scuba or skin diving.

But it’s not just its functionality that cemented the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M to become one of the most famous dive watches in history. It’s also an icon on land, being worn just as often as a dress watch or daily beater as a diving instrument. Why? Because of its appearance on none other than James Bond’s wrist.

It started in 1995 when Pierce Brosnan wore one of the first Omega Seamaster 300M Diver watches in “GoldenEye”. It was the beginning of a very special, and as we would later find out a very long partnership.

From that moment forward, an Omega watch has appeared in every James Bond film, with the Seamaster model becoming known as the go-to timepiece for 007. So, as you can imagine, the Seamaster is no longer just popular with aspiring divers but also aspiring secret agents too.

History of Omega Seamaster Watches

Although we’re focusing on the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M model today, it’s still an important exercise to consider where this watch came from and how it became a product inspired by a long line of predecessors. For that reason, let’s go back even further and look at the history of the Omega Seamaster collection as a whole.

The Omega Seamaster watch was first introduced in 1948, a whole 100 years after the company’s founding. At this point, the Swiss watchmaker had already proven they had the ability to create beautiful and functional watches, but they had yet to design anything dedicated exclusively to water sports and diving. So came the Omega Seamaster, a watch designed with underwater exploration in mind.

The first model was named the Seamaster Diver CK and brought together Omega’s military history with a design that – if you ask me – looks more like a dress watch than a diving instrument. But the watch rather ingeniously combined the slender case and timeless dial with a relatively impressive water resistance for its time.

As the decades rolled on, the Omega Seamaster collection continued to evolve, adding in new complications, movements, dial colors, case sizes – you name it. 1957 was a pretty huge year for Omega for a number of reasons, mainly because they launched three models that would all become icons in their own right. This included the Railmaster, the Speedmaster, and the Seamaster 300. The latter advanced the water-resistant rating of its predecessor while still maintaining a balance between functionality and elegance.

The 1960s and 70s saw further innovations including the Seamaster Proprof, a watch designed for professional deep sea divers, and the Seamaster 120, with a more streamlined design and a water resistance of 120 meters. It was models like this that were early indicators that Omega Seamaster watches were here to stay, pushing the boundaries of what dive watches could do.

Then, with the release of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in 1993, the Swiss watch brand truly cemented the collection as a flagship series. Adding in ceramic bezel inserts, a helium escape valve and chronometer-certified movements, these dive watches were well and truly equipped to take on the ocean.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M: In-Depth Review

Before we start with the in-depth review of the Omega Seamaster 300M Diver and its remarkable set of features, it’s important to note the diversity within the lineup. It’s a collection with a variety of models, each with its own unique nuances, but most share a common set of core attributes that define the watch.

Yes, there are models with colorful gemstones on the bezel and even some limited editions engineered entirely from ceramic, but for the sake of today’s review, we’re giving our attention to the classic and permanent fixtures in the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M collection.

Case Sizes & Materials

If there’s one thing that’s consistent throughout the entire Omega Seamaster collection, it’s dimensions. The time-only models measure to 42mm wide with a thickness of 13.6mm and a lug-to-lug of 49.9mm. Meanwhile, those with chronograph complications are a touch bigger – predominantly to make room for the larger movement inside – measuring to 44mm wide, 17.3mm thick, and with a lug-to-lug of 52.8mm.

Both case sizes might sound large, and that’s because they are. That said, the 42mm time-only Omega Seamaster Diver 300M watches do wear more compactly than you might think, thanks to the faceted architecture and sloped lugs. But let me be clear: these aren’t small watches, and I wouldn’t generally recommend them to anyone with wrists smaller than six-and-a-half inches – unless you like the look of an oversized watch, of course.

The protruding element at 10 o’clock does add to the size as well. It’s a feature that’s known to polarize some wearers since it’s not a usual sight on dive watches. This is the helium escape valve, and although it assists in the impressive 300-meter water-resistant rating, it does optically add to the dimensions. The element is decorated with a “He” marking in relief to note its purpose. It sits on the opposite side of the case, opposite the screw-down, polished, and signed crown, which sits at 3 o’clock.

As is the case with most Omega watches, the Seamaster 300M Diver is impressively finished across the case and bracelet with predominantly linear brushing across the surfaces. I particularly love the finishing on the uniquely scalloped bezel.

The slightly sloped finish of the bezel also leads nicely to the domed sapphire crystal glass treated with double anti-reflective coating, which is matched by another layer of sapphire crystal glass on the exhibition case back.

More often than not, the Omega Seamaster 300M Diver is machined from stainless steel, but there are some instances where the case arrives engineered from lightweight titanium or 18ct yellow gold. There are also some models that combine two of these metals together for a striking finish.

Bezel

Alongside the 10 o’clock helium escape valve, the bezel is arguably one of the most defining features of the Omega Seamaster 300M Diver. It is entirely brushed and set with a ceramic insert bezel, often black or blue in color. The insert is decorated with numerals, usually white, and a luminous pip at 12 o’clock.

I have to say, I’ve always found the bezel of the Seamaster a dream to use. It is unidirectional – something that’s essential for divers tracking their elapsed dive time – and is easy to grip thanks to the scalloped edge, even while wearing thick diving gloves. It also has a really satisfying 120-click system.

Dials

Another defining characteristic of the Omega Seamaster over recent years is the dial, which is decorated with a unique horizontal wave pattern. It copies the very same motif seen on the Seamaster 300M Diver worn by Pierce Brosnan in the 1995 James Bond movie “GoldenEye”. And these waves aren’t just merely stamped but meticulously laser engraved to create a cool and mesmerizing textured backdrop.

The dials are crafted from ceramic, found in shades of blue, black, white or gray. For me, the blue ceramic dials are a true classic, again mimicking some of the first Omega Seamaster watches to launch, including the first one to land on the silver screen on Bond’s wrist.

As for hardware, there’s typically a railway-esque style minute track, round bubble-like hour markers, rhodium-plated or gold skeletonized hands with SuperLumiNova, and a date window at 6 o’clock. The chronograph variants also feature two additional subsidiary dials for the small seconds and 12 hours.

Movement

If you’ve been looking for a dive watch for some time, it’s likely you’ve realized that an uncommon sight is an exhibition case back. The Omega Seamaster 300M Diver is one of a few to have one, however. Through the scalloped back, you can admire the Omega Caliber 8800 oscillating within.

This is one of the brand’s movements to feature their famous co-axial escapement which utilizes a three-pallet system rather than a traditional two-pallet system for decreased sliding friction and increased length of service intervals.

The Caliber 8800 is also a Master Chronometer, as certified by METAS, confirming its high levels of reliability and accuracy, and boasts a healthy power reserve of 55 hours. Finishing is also exceptional with spiral waves across the rotor and bridges, plus there’s some beveling and polished screw heads. The movement is also anti-magnetic, offering up resistance to 15,000 gauss.

Meanwhile, the Seamaster 300M Diver Chronographs elect the Caliber 9900, another automatic movement with Master Chronometer certification and a co-axial escapement. These models have a slightly higher power reserve of 60 hours and a higher frequency of 28,800vph compared to the time-only model’s frequency of 25,200vph.

Strap Options

There are a number of handsome strap options to choose from to complete your Omega Seamaster 300M watch. The vertically ribbed rubber straps are an obvious choice for those wanting to test out the diving capabilities of these watches, as they are water and sweat-resistant. The NATO straps are nice for a more relaxed look and help to bring out some of the vintage aspects of the watch’s design.

My favorite strap is the metal bracelet. You can choose from a modern five-row link band with a combination of brushed and polished links or a more retro mesh metal bracelet. Both are completed by folding buckles embossed with the Omega logo in relief.

Most Popular Omega Seamaster 300 Models

As mentioned, there’s no shortage of Omega Seamaster 300 models to choose from in the collection. In fact, there’s such an extensive number that it can be a little overwhelming to know where to begin. To help, here’s the top five most popular Omega Seamaster watches that are definitely worth a longer look…

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Blue Dial On Bracelet (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001)

My current favorite Omega Seamaster Diver 300M watch in the collection is this blue-dialed reference. For me, this is the epitome of a Seamaster watch, boasting many of the same elements found on the 1995 reference worn by Pierce Brosnan in “GoldenEye”.

It has the same blue laser-etched ceramic dial with a wave pattern and a ceramic insert bezel to match. The sturdy 42mm stainless steel case offers the familiar 300-meter water resistance, and inside is the Master Chronometer Caliber 8800 movement with a 50-hour power reserve.

Omega Seamaster 300 Master Chronometer (ref. 234.30.41.21.01.001)

If you prefer something with more of a vintage look, don’t be afraid to venture from the Omega Seamaster 300M Diver collection just slightly. In their Seamaster Heritage family, there’s a model named the Omega Seamaster 300 Master Chronometer, which wonderfully brings to life some of the design features of the very first Seamaster watches.

It has a gorgeous retro aesthetic, including a black dial and an oxalic anodized aluminum bezel, both adorned with off-white markings. But don’t let its vintage look put you off; this model is still equipped with some of Omega’s latest technology, including vintage Super-LumiNova, a 41mm stainless steel case, and the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8912.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Dial on Bracelet (ref. 210.30.42.20.01.001)

Another classic, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Dial, offers all the same tech as the blue-dialed reference previously mentioned above but instead swaps out the blue ceramic on the dial and bezel for black. The black contrasts beautifully against the brushed stainless steel case, which again measures 42mm wide and houses the Omega Caliber 8800 automatic movement.

Omega Seamaster 300M Chronograph America’s Cup (ref. 210.30.44.51.03.002)

Since Omega has played such a pivotal role in the evolution of dive watches, it makes sense they are involved in several water sports, including being the Official Timekeeper of the 36th America’s Cup. This Omega Seamaster 300M Chronograph was launched in honor of the event, and its 44mm wide steel case and blue ceramic bezel were paired with blue and red soft-touch pushers to mimic the livery of the competition. There’s also a regatta countdown indicator ring added in red anodized aluminum and the counterweight of the chronograph seconds cleverly incorporates the American Cup logo.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M White Dial on Strap (ref. 210.32.42.20.04.001)

Finally, we have the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M with the white dial. Again, this model showcases all the classic features of the time-only reference including a stainless steel 42mm case, 300 meter water resistance and the Omega Caliber 8800. It stands out for its crisp white laser-etched dial which contrasts nicely to the black ceramic bezel insert. It also arrives on a ribbed black rubber strap for a comfortable, casual finish.

Should You Buy An Omega Seamaster Diver 300M?

The short answer is yes, absolutely. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is a brilliant watch; it’s not only a fantastic diving watch, offering you all the necessary features for scuba and skin diving, but it’s a handsome daily beater. Remember, you don’t have to be a professional diver for a watch like this.

It’s nice knowing you have a watch that can withstand the rigors that come with diving, regardless of whether you’re someone who’s on, in, or around water a lot. It’s also a handsome design that transitions effortlessly between day and night. It’s a no-brainer in my eyes.

Omega Seamaster 300 Pricing & Availability

The Omega Seamaster 300 retails for $5,600 from authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces or can be found on the second-hand market starting from $2,000. While most of the models in the collection are permanent releases, note there are a handful of exclusive limited editions.

Conclusion

I hope you’ve got a better understanding of the Omega Seamaster 300M and can now appreciate its significance and versatility. This watch truly offers everything you’d want or need in a diving watch—exceptional durability, advanced features, and precise performance. Yet, it’s not just a robust tool; it also boasts a sophisticated, smart design that looks great for any occasion.

Grand Seiko SLGA019 Review

Posted on August 30, 2024August 30, 2024 by Charlotte H

Have you ever wondered what the texture of a lake would look like on a watch dial? No, me neither. But of course, nature-loving Grand Seiko has done just that, reinterpreting the blue-colored ripples of Lake Suwa onto the dial of their sporty Evolution 9 model. The result?

From online images, it should be a sporty chic watch with a dial that leaves you pretty mesmerized. But is the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 as good in person?

Thankfully, I got hands-on with the model this past week to see if its impressive list of specs is up to scratch. As most of you know, we hold Grand Seiko in high esteem. They are one of just a few brands that have truly mastered horological excellence, proudly focusing on precision, elegance, and functionality.

Because of this, however, we find ourselves with high standards when it comes to reviewing their watches. So is the Grand Seiko SLGA019 a masterpiece, or is it simply a novelty that fulfills the Japanese watchmaker’s obsession with nature? Let’s find out, shall we.

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection

Before we get into the nitty gritty details of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019, we first need to take a stroll down memory lane and consider where this model came from. Back in 1960, Seiko decided to up their game and create a more luxury-focused range of watches. Enter Grand Seiko, a collection of timepieces with premium finishing, materials and movements.

Fast forward to 2017 and CEO Shinji Hattori made the announcement that Grand Seiko would become a standalone brand, separate from the Seiko Watch Company. With the Evolution 9 collection, which was launched three years later, Grand Seiko outlined a set of nine design standards that every model must hit.

These included elements like a flat dial, double wide index at 12 o’clock, multi-faceted hour and minute hands, and a bracelet with at least half the width of the case with the right thickness and heft.

You might be thinking this sounds like all Grand Seiko watches. And in some ways, it is, but the Evolution 9 hits more differently than you might anticipate. In fact, some of the changes to the design are almost invisible to the naked eye. For example, the way the ergonomic case has a lower center of gravity on the wrist isn’t something you can see, but it’s something you feel once it’s strapped on.

But does this apply to the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019? For starters, the Japanese watchmaker has forgone the classic flat dial for one inspired by the soft blue ripples of its namesake.

The luxury watch company has habitually drawn inspiration from aspects of nature surrounding their factory, and this novelty is no different. This time, they look to Lake Suwa, a freshwater lake in the Nagano Prefecture of Japan, known for its natural beauty and hot springs.

This isn’t the first watch from Grand Seiko to form a “Lake Suwa ” series. In truth, this is the third in a line-up of three. The first was reference SLGA007, launched as part of the brand’s 140th anniversary celebration.

The second arrived shortly after, reference SBGY007, which utilized a slightly different, but equally exquisite “Omiwatari ” dial pattern and marked the first non-limited edition Lake Suwa watch. Then there was SLGA019, launching later in 2023 and becoming the lightest of them all.

A Lightweight Titanium Case

Arguably, the biggest difference between the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 watch and the two launched before it is the case material. This time, the 40mm wide and 11.8mm tall case is machined from titanium, a material 30-35% lighter than stainless steel.

This makes the SLGA019 incredibly wearable and comfortable, especially as an everyday dress watch. The metal also has a slightly warmer hue and softer appearance, plus it benefits from extra corrosion resistance.

This isn’t just any plain old titanium, either. It’s Grand Seiko’s patented high-intensity titanium, which offers a higher level of scratch resistance and durability than standard titanium.

As I typically do with most titanium watches, I had to weigh it for myself, and according to my scales, reference SLGA019 weighs in at just under 112 grams. It’s a really nice weight for a dress watch; it’s not so light that it feels invisible, but it has a nice lightness that makes it effortless to wear when simply going about your business.

As you’d expect from Grand Seiko, the finishing of the Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 watch is exceptional. The angular case presents the Evolution 9’s small, sloping lugs with a brushed finish to match the vertically brushed fixed bezel and bracelet links.

In contrast, the bezel and case sides are finished using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu polishing, a technique that involves using a spinning tin plate coated with diamond paste to create a flawless, distortion-free mirror finish.

The Grand Seiko SLGA019 sits on the wrist with a lug-to-lug width of 47.9mm and boasts dual-curved sapphire crystal glass on top, a screwed exhibition case back – also utilizing sapphire crystal — and a simple knurled crown at 3 o’clock. The crown offers screw-down capability for a reasonable 100-meter water-resistant rating and is topped by the “GS” logo.

Lake Suwa-Inspired Dial

Due to its name, many will admire the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 most for its dial. Grand Seiko described the dial of the original Lake Suwa SLGA007 model to be inspired by “the calm waters of Lake Suwa”.

The second (SBGY007) replicated the look of the water when it froze during the winter. This time, Grand Seiko suggests the lighter hue evokes “the surface of Lake Suwa and its gentle waves in the early morning hours when a breeze stirs the long, shallow lake.”

In my opinion, this is the best of the “Lake Suwa” dials so far. Why? Because the shade of blue seems to change color depending on your surroundings. It stands out in a bold royal blue in direct sunlight, and yet, in the shade, it becomes an almost discreet shade of black. The supple ripple texture also gives the watch a certain sparkle; both the color and texture are highly responsive to light, reflecting it with every twist and turn.

The hands and indices are also perfectly finished in the Evolution 9 style. Each hour marker is multifaceted, and the 12 o’clock marker has a double multifaceted shape. Despite not having a touch of lume anywhere on the dial, the display of the Grand Seiko SLGA019 is brilliantly legible.

The dauphine-style hands are also broad and easy to read, offering classic hours, minutes, and seconds complication. The hour hand has a unique shape, with the end sliced off and a facet running down the center.

All the silvered hardware, including the boxed-in date at 3 o’clock, is brightly polished. My only complaint about the Grand Seiko SLGA019’s dial involves the date window. I can’t help but think, with a dial as beautiful as this, the date should have been neglected.

And if a date must be insisted on, they should at least swap the white disc to one of navy for a more seamless, subtle finish. The dial is finished with the Grand Seiko logo added in relief at 12 o’clock and lettering denoting information about the movement at 6 o’clock.

The Spring Drive Movement

Like the previous three Grand Seiko “Lake Suwa” watches, SLGA019 is powered by the Japanese brand’s in-house 9RA2 Spring Drive movement. This caliber cleverly combines the precision of a quartz movement with the smooth sweeping motion of a mechanical watch. This alone makes the SLGA019 a valuable timepiece, and when combined with the lightweight case and textured dial, there’s very little to berate.

The quartz-mechanical hybrid is ingeniously engineered to maintain a remarkable accuracy of ±0.5 seconds per day or ±10 seconds per month. This exceptional accuracy is achieved through a combination of a quartz oscillator for timing stability, a mechanical gear train for power transmission, and an electromagnetic brake to regulate the speed of the glide wheel.

The result is a movement that not only keeps impeccable time but also provides a unique tactile experience with its smooth, silent glide of the seconds hand.

There’s plenty of pleasant finishing seen through the case back. I particularly like the frosted plates and bridges that are inspired by the frost that winter brings to the trees surrounding Grand Seiko’s manufacturing facility.

As always, there’s blued screwed, beveled edges, 38 jewels, and an off-set magic lever to keep the movement, and consequently, the case, nice and thin. Rather than being placed on the front of the dial like most of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive watches, the power reserve is positioned on the back of the movement, so when the watch is off your wrist, you can see what’s remaining out of its 120-hour reserve.

Titanium Bracelet

Like the case, the bracelet is made using Grand Seiko’s high-intensity titanium. It boasts a three-link construction with a completely matte finish thanks to the vertically brushed decoration. It tapers from a 22mm lug width where it meets the case down to a 21mm width where the buckle appears. The buckle is embossed with the GS logo on top and has folding functionality with push button release.

One of the few weak points of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 is that the bracelet lacks any sort of micro-adjustment. This hampers its ability to be used as a daily wearer since anyone familiar with wearing metal bracelet watches will know your wrist can swell and contract as the day goes on and temperatures vary.

It would have been a nice addition for Grand Seiko to include a micro-adjustment system on this bracelet; I know it’s a feature many GS enthusiasts have been hoping for in the Evolution 9 series.

It also comes with push pins for sizing instead of screws, which is a little crazy for a watch of this caliber. I’ve said it once, but I’ll say it again: Grand Seiko does everything right until it comes to their metal bracelets.

The bracelet does arrive with drilled lugs, though, so you can easily swap around the strap to something more suitable if you want. The 22mm lug width means you’ll have an endless supply of strap options to choose from. If it were me, I’d invest in a better-styled titanium bracelet or a nice chocolate brown alligator leather band.

On-Wrist Experience

With a watch like the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019, wearability is essential. First impressions confirmed that this was a watch I could effortlessly wear all day, every day. Its titanium construction is incredibly lightweight, and its dimensions make it effortlessly wearable for most wrist types.

The lug-to-lug is a little larger than I’d like, but the slender profile, sleek curves, and low center of gravity make up for this. I’d suggest the SLGA019 would be best suited to those with six and a half inch wrists and above – but even myself, with a five-and-a-half-inch wrist enjoyed the statement this watch made.

While its case makes it a daily beater, the dial of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 makes it one of the finest dress watches in the collection. The detailing and shade of blue are divine, and as always, the finishing on the dial’s hardware makes it sparkle almost like a diamond in certain lights. Its 11.8mm height means it’s also ideal for slipping it under shirt cuffs – although if it were me, I’d keep this bad boy out in the open for everyone to see.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SLGA019 retails for $10,400 brand new and is available to order from your local authorized dealer, including Exquisite Timepieces. It can also be found on the second-hand market for around $6,500. It’s another non-limited edition design, but with how popular the “Lake Suwa” series has proven so far, I wouldn’t expect it to stay in stock for much longer.

Conclusion

Like any watch, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 has some room for improvement. Where the design is let down most is on the bracelet. I’m really hoping Grand Seiko up their bracelet game soon, as a watch like this deserves some micro-adjustment, and it especially needs to have screws rather than push pins. I’d also like to see the “Lake Suwa” series either dateless or at least with a color-matching date disc to match the textured display.

Other than that, the Grand Seiko SLGA019 is exceptional. The lightness of the titanium case, the levels of finishing on the case and bracelet, and the detail found on the detail are breathtaking.

Then you have the in-house 9RA2 Spring Drive movement as the cherry on top. The weekday-proof 120-hour power reserve is extremely useful, and with a level of precision like this, you’ll never have an excuse for being late. I stand by my claim that this is the most handsome Grand Seiko “Lake Suwa” watch released so far.

Grand Seiko SLGH005 Review

Posted on August 30, 2024August 30, 2024 by Charlotte H

Whether it be the texture of snow, the ripples on a lake, or the color of the sky at a particular time of the day, Grand Seiko has pretty much interpreted every aspect of nature seen outside their factory windows onto a watch dial.

The Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is nestled in a quiet forest in Japan’s Iwate Prefecture. It’s here that the original Grand Seiko watch was created and that their new watches and 9S mechanical movements are made.

It seems that outside these windows, Grand Seiko is treated to an abundance of breathtaking scenery from which they can draw inspiration when designing their watches. Whether it be cherry blossoms in bloom in Japan’s early springtime, a garden path through a bamboo forest, or the sight of rain falling on Mt. Iwate, Japan’s nature has well and truly been honored by a Grand Seiko dial more times than we can count.

And yet, just when you think their inspiration must be running thin, they launch one of the most brilliant-looking watch dials I have ever seen. The Grand Seiko SLGH005, nicknamed the “White Birch” for obvious reasons, is inspired by Shirakaba, the Japanese term for white birch trees. “Shira” signifies “white,” and “kaba” combines the kanji for “wood” and “beauty”.

In images I had seen online, the dial finish looked immaculate, but I had not seen the watch in person… until now. So now that I have it on my wrist, the question is: does the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 live up to my expectations?

The History of the Grand Seiko SLGH005

Before we get into the nitty-gritty details of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005, I want to first mention the impact this watch had on its release. When it launched in early 2020, it felt like the start of a new chapter for Grand Seiko. It wasn’t wholly new in any sense, really; we’d seen the sleek and dynamic Evolution 9 case and bracelet already, and we’d enjoyed several models equipped with their in-house Caliber 9SA5 movement.

However, what set the SLGH005 apart from its predecessors was that it marked their first regular production model. It wasn’t exclusive to any part of the world nor limited to a specific number of designs to celebrate the company’s 60th anniversary.

This might not seem all that extraordinary, but when a brand debuts a new case architecture and a new movement to go with it, there’s always some uncertainty about how well it will fare, both in popularity and reliability.

So, the launch of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 as a permanent addition to the brand’s portfolio was proof these aesthetics and technologies were here to stay.

The Evolution 9 Case

For me, dimensions can make or break a watch. I have fairly slender wrists, at around five-and-a-half inches wide, so when I saw that the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 had some healthy proportions, I knew we were off to a good start.

The case measures 40mm in diameter, 11.7mm in height, and a 47mm lug-to-lug. And for those interested, I measured the end link-to-end link diameter as 50.3mm. These are classic dimensions for a daily beater watch and would happily suit wrists similar to mine or bigger.

It wears a little lower on the wrist than its height suggests, too. That’s helped by the double-stepped case, the low flanks of the bezel, and the beautiful downward-turned lugs. The case is entirely machined from stainless steel and follows the architecture of previous Evolution 9 models. The Evolution 9 series is designed to be a more modern watch compared to some of GS’s more traditional collections like the Heritage and Elegance.

It cleverly blends a range of aesthetics sourced from Grand Seiko’s design history to create a watch that’s not quite a sports watch nor a dress watch but one somewhere in between.

This makes the SLGH005 extremely versatile, working just as well with denim as a black tie. Part of the reason it feels like a sports watch is the screw-down crown, which offers 100-meter water resistance, a specification far higher than the typical dress watch standard.

The contrasting finishes used on the case are also to blame. There’s satin brushing on the case sides and bezel top, which juxtaposes nicely with the bright polishing used on the bezel sides and lug edges. The latter is achieved using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu polishing technique, which is done entirely by hand and is a rather lengthy process. The result, though, is stunning with a mirror-like finish.

On top, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 delivers high-quality sapphire crystal glass that is both cambered and box-shaped. The box section is seen outward while the cambered shape is central, creating a seemingly flat but beautifully undistorted view of the dial. Sapphire crystal is also featured on the case back, so you can admire the in-house movement inside when the watch is off your wrist.

The White Birch Dial

Due to its name, I expected the dial of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 would be white. But it’s not. In fact, the textured display is entirely silver with a metallic finish inspired by the look of the white birch trees spotted outside the Shizukuishi studio.

I was pleasantly surprised upon unboxing the SLGH005. Part of me had wondered if a white dial would make the design look all too similar to the GS Snowflake. Instead, the silver dial really makes this watch a novelty in its own right.

The dial texture well and truly looks like the grain of a white birch branch or trunk. I don’t know how Grand Seiko does it, but they are experts in mimicking the colors and textures of nature onto dials.

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 is one of the same. It has very deep grooves that give the dial an almost rustic-like appearance and provide plenty of visual interest. It’s one of those displays you can get lost in all too easily.

According to Grand Seiko, creating the SLGH005’s dial is no easy feat. It requires up to 20 steps to fabricate, many of which involve clear coating the surface. This is done up to 14 or 15 times before the finishing touches are done to create the final silver color and texture. It’s only after that that the Japanese watchmaker can begin adding the GS logo, silver-bordered date window, and hands and minute markers.

For the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 watch, the indexes are hand-applied and faceted with the 12 o’clock marker featuring the Evolution 9’s double-faceted profile. The hour hand is uniquely shaped, with a flat end, while the minutes and seconds are kept nice and sharp.

The latter is steel and fired blue for a brilliant contrast against the rest of the monochromatic display. There’s no lume in sight, but the bright polishing of all the hardware provides plenty of legibility, at least in the daytime.

Movement

With so much going on with the case and dial, it’s easy to forget that the movement within the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 watch is just as much, if not more impressive.

The movement in question is Caliber 9SA5, an in-house manufacture movement that brings together some of Grand Seiko’s greatest proprietary technologies into one place. The result is a movement with a weekend-proof 80-hour power reserve and a high beat frequency of 36,600 vibrations per hour.

One of the biggest draws of the Caliber 9SA5 is the escapement design. It has a dual-impulse, increasing energy efficiency and allowing for such a high frequency and long power reserve.

I won’t go into too much detail about how this works because I’m no engineer, but I do know it’s technology garnered plenty of applause and is considered a real example of haute horlogerie. It’s also 15% slimmer than previous 9S calibers, measuring to just 5.18mm tall. This is achieved by placing the barrel and gear trains in a special horizontal layout.

In addition to being technically impressive, the Caliber 9SA5 is a beautiful movement. Through the sapphire crystal case back, you can view the breathtaking bridges designed to mimic the flowing lines of Mt. Iwate and the Shizukuishi River. The surfaces are treated with striping, polished bevels, and perlage, and the oscillating rotor has a more openwork design compared to previous 9S Calibres, giving us a better view of the components below that are hard at work.

Straps

Like all the watches in the Evolution 9 Series, the Grand Seiko “White Birch” SLGH005 is finished by a modern and broad metal bracelet. It matches the case in its stainless steel construction and has a wonderful array of finishes including polished links on the outer face and a satin-brushed top.

I particularly like the staggered link alignment, as this adds to the watch’s sporty persona, plus the bracelet has an integrated end link to remove any awkward gaps between the case and strap.

The buckle is just as beautifully finished with both satin and polished finishing and the GS logo in relief. It’s a single-fold deployment clasp with a twin trigger release, so it’s not easy to accidentally pop open.

The strap is 22mm wide, so swapping it out for another is made easy, plus its length can be adjusted by screws. My only real complaint, as is normally the case with Grand Seiko bracelets, is that there’s no fine adjustment clasp. But there are varying ranges of link sizes that can be taken out, so finding a good fit won’t be too difficult.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 is a unique offering from the Japanese watchmaker for many reasons, one being its wearability. On paper, the dimensions are extremely wearable and don’t get me wrong, this is a comfortable watch, but it is a little larger than some of their other models.

Much of that is down to the lug-to-lug distance of 50.3mm when you include the male end links. It still wears nicely on my five-and-a-half-inch wrist, but it felt more like a statement timepiece than a real daily beater. I’d recommend that if you want this watch to be your everyday go-to, you’ll need to be an individual with 6.75-inch wrists or more.

That said, it has a nice low profile, making it feel a touch more compact. It’s the perfect height for a dress watch, as it’ll slip under the cuff of a shirt without issue. But I have to say, with a dial like this, I wouldn’t want to hide the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 under a sleeve. I’ll say it again, but this dial is beautiful. I want to stare at it and have others stare at it, too.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 retails brand new for $9,100 or can be found on the second-hand market for between $5,000 and $7,000. It’s a non-limited edition, so it is currently part of the brand’s permanent collection. If you’re interested in this model, we recommend purchasing a watch of this caliber through an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

There’s no putting this any plainer: the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 is a beautiful watch and represents the very best of what this Japanese watchmaker can do. The case’s design language, the exquisite finishing of the dial and the technology incorporated within the high-beat movement is just exceptional and there are very few watches made to this standard available under $10,000.

My favorite feature of the model will come to no one’s surprise. It’s the dial. The intense metallic silver color with its shimmering tree bark effect is breathtaking, and it creates an almost mesmerizing coherent finish with the metal case and bracelet. This really is a watch you deserve to see in person. Sadly, I’m not sure even my writing skills can translate this watch’s immaculate beauty.

Grand Seiko SBGK002 Review

Posted on August 28, 2024August 28, 2024 by Charlotte H

There’s a long list of Grand Seiko watches I’ve always wanted to get hands-on with. I’ve been fortunate to tick some of them off my bucket list already, but one that has been sitting close to the top spot for quite some time is the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002.

Why? Because this is one of those watches that looks absolutely breathtaking in pictures. The warm 18-carat rose gold case, and the rich burgundy dial are enough to make your wrists sweat. And then you have the texture of the dial; it’s a display that looks as if it’s almost made of hair with Urushi lacquer creating a fine and unique texture. But is the Grand Seiko SBGK002 as impressive in person? I’m excited to say I finally found out.

A Pre-Baselworld 2019 Launch

There’s never been a shortage of dressy and elegant Grand Seiko watches. Ultimately, the company’s founder Kintaro Hattori set out to create a “perfect” watch, one that was durable, legible, precise and most importantly, beautiful. He certainly succeeded as proved by Grand Seiko’s unquestionable execution in both their mechanics and aesthetics.

Just before Baselworld (RIP) opened its doors in 2019, the Japanese watchmaker launched a collection of four watches that embraced the qualities of a dress watch even further. We’re talking about high-end case materials, thin dimensions, Urushi lacquer dials (a first for GS at this time), and a new movement. The series was known as the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection and featured four references noted as SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005, and SBGK006.

The first, and my personal favorite at the time, reference SBGK002, is the very model we’re reviewing today. It features a solid rose gold case and a deep red dial. In contrast, SBGK004 pairs its rose gold case with a black dial, SBGK005 opts for a blue dial and steel housing, and SBGK006 (the only non-limited edition in the line-up) sports a white dial and a yellow gold case.

All four felt very different from the Grand Seiko watches we’d seen before. Sure, Grand Seiko already had plenty of dress models in their portfolio, but these stood out. It wasn’t just because they used Urushi lacquer for the first time.

They chose a more refined case with fewer sharp and angular elements, plus a set of dimensions that made them perfectly suited to almost any wrist size. Everything just sounds too good to be true. So, does the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 live up to its reputation?

A Vintage Rose Gold Case

First impressions: The case of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK002 watch might be one of the most impressive cases I’ve seen on a GS watch yet. It’s immediately elegant, but the more you stare at it, the more you realize just how complex its construction is.

It has a generously sloped architecture that seems to be made from one single block of 18-carat rose gold. It’s beautifully soft, with round corners and edges and little to no shared elements. For example, while most Grand Seiko cases have a facet on the internal side of the lugs, this model has no boundary separating the case band and lugs. The lugs’ width is also only 19mm, which adds to the design’s 19th-century-inspired aesthetic.

The dimensions of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 add to its dressy personality further. It arrives with a diameter of 39mm and a height of just 12mm. Lug to lug is also just 44mm making this one of the most wearable Grand Seiko watches on the market. As someone with a generally small wrist size compared to the average at five-and-a-half inches, this sits comfortably without fault.

The top surfaces of the case are finished with the Japanese watchmaker’s famous Zaratsu tin plate polish for a brilliantly dressy, almost mirror-like shine. In contrast, the case sides, which are remarkably slim in their profile, are detailed with satin finishing that runs vertically. The cambered underside has the same Zaratsu polished finish as the top. The crown, also in 18ct rose gold, is gently knurled and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. It has a slight counter-sink into the case’s profile.

The case is topped by domed sapphire crystal glass which again elevates its vintage feel and presents an unadorned 18ct rose gold bezel with a slight conical profile. Again, the bezel has a high polish finish. Turning the Grand Seiko SBGK002 over reveals a glimpse into the 9S63 movement within, one protected by a simple 30-meter water-resistant rating.

A Complex Urushi Lacquer Dial

It’s not often you’ll find a Grand Seiko dial that is anything but mesmerizing. Let’s be honest, this Japanese watchmaker has well and truly mastered the art of dial design. It’s surprising though, that it took until 2019 for the company to use Urushi lacquer on one of their watches.

The rare technique involves the sap from Urushi, a tree grown around the town of Joboji that lies under Mt. Iwate, the very mountain seen out the windows of Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio. The sap is then turned into a lacquer that hardens, becoming extremely durable with a breathtaking, glossy finish.

In the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch, the lacquer is dyed in a rich burgundy hue and applied carefully to create this intricate, fur-like finish. Grand Seiko calls it their “Mt. Iwate pattern” since it is inspired by the ridgelines of the magnificent mountain. It’s the kind of dial you can stare at forever, getting lost in its complexity. The rich shade of red is also the perfect companion for the rose gold case, with the warmth of both creating a truly luxurious-looking watch.

At first glance, the hardware on the Grand Seiko SBGK002 watch’s dial may appear simple, but it’s anything but. The off-gray hour markers and “GS” letters of the Grand Seiko logo are decorated with a traditional Japanese technique called Maki-e. Done by hand by master Isshu Tamura in his studio in Kanazawa on the west coast of Japan’s main island, it’s a process that combines platinum powder with lacquer, taking great dexterity and patience. Every marker has the same depth and shape, created by applying layer after layer of the lacquer. It gives the numeral and markers a three-dimensional profile for a nice level of legibility.

In contrast, the hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, and power reserve indicator are crafted from rose gold and hand-finished using diamond-tipped tools. The hour and minute hands are faceted with satin brushing on the top and polished on the bezels.

I have to applaud Grand Seiko for the perfect symmetry achieved in the placement of the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. It’s not easy to add a power reserve indicator to a dial without the aesthetic feeling cluttered, but it’s been done here perfectly, giving us extra functionality without losing out on any level of elegance.

A Rare Manual-Winding Movement

It would have been all too easy for Grand Seiko to place one of their well-known and highly regarded automatic movements into the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002, but they didn’t, and thank goodness they didn’t. Why? Because this is a vintage-inspired watch that deserves the traditionalism of a manual winding movement.

When the Excellence collection was released, the Caliber 9S63 marked Grand Seiko’s first manual winding movement in six years. They didn’t go easy on themselves either, creating a caliber with a 72-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, a frequency of 28,800vph, and a chronometer-busting accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day. It’s also been tested and regulated to extremely high standards, tested in six positions in a controlled environment for 12 days.

The movement is nicely finished. It has typical Grand Seiko striping and polished chamfers, and the sapphire crystal glass that protects the caliber is decorated with the company’s logo.

Straps

One aspect of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch that I wasn’t expecting to love so much was the strap. Not because Grand Seiko is in any way bad at crafting straps; it’s just that I’m usually too infatuated by the case or dial to take much notice. This time, though, things are different. The strap was actually one of the first things I noticed when I took the Grand Seiko SBGK002 out of the box.

More often than not, straps – even those by some of the most famous Swiss watchmakers – have a level of stiffness to them. It’s not a bad thing; they just require some warming up and wear to get them feeling comfortable.

In the case of the SBGK002, however, the Japanese-made dark brown alligator leather strap has an almost buttery finish to it. It basically melts straight onto the wrist. It feels worn-in already, yet it looks brand new. It’s the best of both worlds and is quite possibly one of the finest leather straps I have experienced.

It utilizes alligator leather on the upper side and calfskin leather on the underside. There’s monotone stitching, a folded edge, and printing to confirm that the strap is handmade by Grand Seiko. The buckle is 18-carat rose gold with bevelling, polishing, and a satin finish. Some might expect a deployment buckle on a watch of this price, but I actually like the pin buckle in this case. It suits the Grand Seiko Excellence’s classic personality more.

On-Wrist Experience

If you’ve read this far, it’s probably going to come as no surprise that this watch is an absolute pleasure to wear. The 39mm width, 12mm height, and beautifully sloped case make it sit low and unassuming on the arm – and that’s coming from someone with a smaller-than-average wrist at five-and-a-half inches. It’s still going to look the part if your wrist is bigger too. I’d suggest anyone with arms below 8 inches could pull this model off. Any bigger and you might want to check out one of Grand Seiko’s larger timepieces.

Wearability is made all the better by the leather strap. It has this incredible buttery feel that feels as if it’s been broken in, even when you pick it up for the first time. I’m normally more of a metal bracelet kind of wearer, but this Grand Seiko leather strap and the design of the SBGK002 overall, have tempted me to broaden my strap horizons.

Price & Availability

Since its launch in 2019, the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch has been available to order from authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. It’s a limited edition of just 150 pieces and currently retails for $29,000. It’s not one of GS’s most affordable watches, but when you take into account the level of craftsmanship, insanely detailed dial, and solid gold case, it’s a figure that makes sense. If you’re lucky, you might be able to find second-hand examples of the model for around $17,000.

Conclusion

It’s not often I review a watch and have nothing bad to say. But with the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002, I really can’t think of anything I would change. If I had to use one word to describe this model, it would be “luxury”. Everything about the design feels lustrous, glossy and opulent.

The case is finished beautifully, and the combination of the Zaratsu polished case elements with the shiny Urushi lacquer dial is perfect. The warm rose gold and rich burgundy make me feel like royalty, and the dial alone is something I could stare at all day. The dimensions are also well thought-out; it’s compact enough for small wrists like mine and yet still exudes a presence worthy of larger arms.

Finally – and last time, I promise – I need to rave about the leather strap. Normally straps are where most watch brands fall short. It makes sense because most watch wearers don’t give much thought to something that can be easily swapped out.

In this instance, though, I can’t imagine ever wanting to swap out the ultra-soft and supple alligator leather on the SBGK002. It’s comfortable and attractive and suits the colorway of the dial and case beautifully. All I have left to say on the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ is: bravo Grand Seiko, bravo.