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christopher ward watches review

Christopher Ward Watches Review – From England With Love

Charlotte H

March 4, 2025

As a British watch collector, I’ve always had a soft spot for homegrown horological talent. There’s just something special about rooting for brands that are close to home, especially when the global watchmaking heavyweights from Switzerland and Germany tend to dominate the scene.

Don’t get me wrong, I love a good Swiss watch as much as the next collector, but there’s a unique thrill in seeing a British brand carve out its place in a saturated industry.

That’s exactly why Christopher Ward has been on my radar for years. Back in the day, they were the definition of a microbrand.

They started as a relatively small team that was just excited to be making watches on British soil. But that did mean very few of my international watch-collecting friends had ever heard of them.

But it’s safe to say that’s now all changed. Today, Christopher Ward is no longer a secret, especially since winning the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) with their stunning C1 Bel Canto and releasing affordable designs like The Twelve and Sealander.

They’ve gone global in a big way. But, if you’re still unfamiliar with the name or just curious to know more, I’m excited to take you through everything there is to know about Christopher Ward.

I’ll be looking back at their humble beginnings to the current collections and discussing whether a Christopher Ward watch is right for your wrist.

History of Christopher Ward Watches 

christopher ward review

Back in 2004, three friends—Mike France, Peter Ellis, and Chris Ward—were floating down the Thames, brainstorming ideas for their next venture.

They’d just left their previous gigs and decided it was time to create something new. Watches, it turns out, was a shared passion and was a world they believed they could actually break into, despite the mass of popular brands already out there. 

At the time, Swiss luxury brands dominated the market with astronomical markups and heavily marketed prestige. So Mike, Peter, and Chris saw an opportunity to shake things up. 

They envisioned a watch brand that skipped the glitzy marketing and sold directly to customers online, making high-quality timepieces that didn’t break the bank. And so, from a humble chicken shed in Berkshire, the Christopher Ward brand was born.

Their first two watches, the C5 Malvern Automatic and the C3 Malvern Chronograph, were launched in 2005. The startup had no physical storefront and instead relied on a single ad in The Independent newspaper and their fledgling website.

Sales were slow at first, but after a review mentioned their C5 and described it as the “best-value mechanical watch in the world”, all of a sudden, the little British watch brand was on the map. 

By 2008, Christopher Ward had partnered with Swiss watchmakers Synergies Horlogères, giving them access to bespoke craftsmanship and expertise. 

This collaboration led to innovations like the JJ Calibres and, in 2014, the game-changing Calibre SH21, a 5-day power reserve movement. It was the first commercially viable in-house movement from a British watch brand in over 50 years, cementing Christopher Ward as a real disruptor. 

Fast forward to today, and Christopher Ward has transformed into a global name in watchmaking. Their headquarters in Maidenhead, UK, and manufacture in Biel, Switzerland, ensure the perfect blend of British design and Swiss precision. 

The brand has grown its catalog to include collections like the C60 Trident, Aquitaine, and Sealander, appealing to everyone from first-time buyers to seasoned collectors. 

They’ve also evolved their branding, ditching the full “Christopher Ward” text on dials in favor of the sleek twin-flags logo. This change wasn’t just cosmetic but was also designed to represent the dual British-Swiss heritage. 

The real tipping point for Christopher Ward, though, at least in my eyes, was when they won the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award for their C1 Bel Canto.

This innovative chiming watch is remarkably affordable, considering it houses a chiming complication and remains one of the British watchmaker’s most coveted designs. 

And with other models like The Twelve and C1 Moonphase more recently hitting virtual shelves, Christopher Ward has made it clear they’ve outgrown their microbrand roots.

Popular Christopher Ward Collections

Bel Canto 

Christopher Ward Bel Canto

As I hopefully made clear in the introduction, the Christopher Ward Bel Canto remains the brand’s most transformative piece that catapulted the British watchmaker into the limelight. 

Powered by the innovative FS01 module atop the reliable Sellita SW200-1 movement, it produces an hourly chime. This alone is a rare sight in watches, but especially at a price point of $4,000. 

Housed in lightweight Grade 5 titanium, the watch is both durable and elegant, with a 41mm case that’s been masterfully sculpted to reduce visual heft.

This balance of design ensures a comfortable, unobtrusive wrist presence. Its centrepiece, though is the vibrant sunburst dial that rivals even those on high-end luxury timepieces.

It’s visually captivating without being overly complicated, with a symmetrical dial-side chime mechanism and polished, chamfered details. 

The Twelve

Christopher Ward The Twelve

Christopher Ward’s The Twelve collection is a personal favorite of mine and a watch I’ve owned for a little over a year now. It’s one of the few affordable integrated sports watches on the market available in both 40mm and 36mm and in steel or titanium. 

Its most defining feature, and the very thing it’s named after, is the bezel. It has twelve sides and is meticulously triple-finished for depth and dimension. 

Dial textures vary across models, from glacier blue to nebula purple, each adorned with Christopher Ward’s signature cross-flag pattern.

The steel models house the Sellita SW200 movement, while the titanium models feature a thinner, chronometer-certified SW300, reflecting thoughtful tiered offerings. 

With a starting price of $995, The Twelve bridges the gap between haute horology and everyday luxury, making it a formidable contender for anyone wanting an integrated sports watch that doesn’t have the price tag of a Royal Oak or Nautilus. 

Trident

Christopher Ward Trident

The Trident is Christopher Ward’s flagship dive watch, offering a balance of performance, style, and value. Among the standout models is the C60 Trident Pro 300, a reimagined classic designed for everyday versatility. 

Slimmer and lighter than previous iterations, it features a two-part unidirectional ceramic bezel that delivers a precise, satisfying click. It’s also available in a range of sizes, including 38mm, 40mm, and 42mm, and four dynamic color options. 

Another highlight is the C60 Trident Lumière, a more recent release that takes luminosity to the next level. Constructed from Grade 2 titanium, the case and bracelet exhibit a darker, more refined finish than traditional stainless steel, while the gradient dial features a new patented material Christopher Ward calls Globolight on the hour markers. These are ceramic blocks infused with Super-LumiNova that create a striking 3D effect, perfect for underwater legibility. 

C1 Moonphase 

Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase

Another Christopher Ward watch many of you will likely be familiar with is their C1 Moonphase. This collection is inspired by the night sky’s celestial beauty, showcasing an aventurine dial crafted from aventurine glass infused with copper oxide. 

The result is a display that sparkles like a starry night sky. The most notable part of the dial, though is the moon. Fashioned from Globolight, a ceramic and Super-LumiNova blend, the moon offers a breathtakingly accurate three-dimensional representation of the moon’s surface. 

The C1 Moonphase is powered by Calibre JJ04, an in-house modular movement that links the moonphase to the hour hand for a seamless, perpetually moving display of lunar phases. 

Remarkably accurate, it promises to track the moon’s journey for 128 years as long as you keep it wound. The rest of the watch has a beautiful minimalist approach, with the aventurine dial stripped of markers, indexes, and even the logo, allowing the moon and starry backdrop to take centre stage. 

C63 Sealander

The C63 Sealander Collection is Christopher Ward’s answer to the call for a versatile, go-anywhere, do-everything sports watch.

With a sleek design rooted in English aesthetics and Swiss engineering, these watches are crafted from marine-grade stainless steel and feature shimmering sunray dials at the center. 

With options in 36mm and 39mm, the ergonomically designed Light-catcher case fits snugly on the wrist, combining brushed and polished surfaces that play beautifully with the light (hence the name). 

Turn the watch over, and the exhibition case back reveals the intricate workings of the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement.

And for those who travel regularly, you’ll likely appreciate the C63 Sealander GMT, which adds an additional time zone hopping complication so you can stay connected to multiple time zones at once. 

Super Compressor

Christopher Ward Super Compressor

Finally, a Christopher Ward watch that doesn’t get mentioned enough is the C65 Super Compressor. As a genuine super compressor watch, it features a unique mechanism that uses water pressure to enhance its seal, a hallmark of Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA) cases from the 1950s. T

heir latest design in the series is their “Elite” version, which reimages their original with even better functionality. 

At the heart of the C65 Super Compressor Elite is a COSC-certified version of the Sellita SW300-1 automatic caliber, placing it among the top six percent of Swiss mechanical movements for accuracy. 

This precision is complemented by the decompression scale on the dial, box-shaped sapphire crystal glass and a sturdy 41mm cushion-shaped Light-catcher.

There are also twin crowns, one for controlling the internal rotating bezel and another for changing the time, both screwed in to ensure the 150-meter water resistance.

What Makes Christopher Ward Watches Stand Out? 

When it comes to finding a watch that truly stands out, Christopher Ward has carved a niche that’s hard to ignore. As a fellow British watch enthusiast, I’ve always admired their approach to watchmaking.

They’re not just another brand in the sea of options but a small, independent British watchmaker that genuinely cares about quality and innovation. This makes their timepieces especially appealing to those of us who appreciate the finer details of horology. 

One of the biggest things that set Christopher Ward apart is their use of in-house movements and materials.

While many of their movements are based on tried-and-true Swiss workhorses, Christopher Ward takes it a step further by integrating their own patented technologies like that seen in the Bel Canto or the C1 Moonphase.

Their Light Catcher case is another example and having worn several Christopher Ward watches with this design feature, I can confirm it has a beautiful, flowing architecture that enhances aesthetic appeal and wearability.

Quality is another cornerstone of Christopher Ward’s philosophy. They don’t compromise when it comes to materials or craftsmanship.

Whether it’s the Grade 5 titanium in the Bel Canto or the aventurine glass in the Moonphase collection, every component is meticulously chosen and expertly crafted.

And speaking of complications, their Bel Canto and Moonphase models are perfect examples of how they bring high-end features to insanely affordable prices. 

To put it into perspective, the Bel Canto retails for just over $4,000, while a similar chiming watch from a brand like A. Lange & Söhne, such as the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, can set you back over $450,000. That’s more than 100 times the price. But Christopher Ward isn’t cutting corners, they’re instead reimagining accessibility without sacrificing quality. 

Christopher Ward is also known for their direct-to-consumer approach. They choose to bypass traditional retail models so they can bring high-quality timepieces available to a wider audience.

It’s a clever way to challenge the status quo and bring back transparency in watchmaking. In an industry often shrouded in mystery, Christopher Ward pulls back the curtain and instead shares insights into their manufacturing processes, material sourcing, and the true costs involved in creating each watch. This level of openness builds trust and makes you feel like you are part of their journey, not just a customer.

Should you get a Christopher Ward Watch?

Deciding whether to invest in a Christopher Ward watch depends on what you’re looking for in a timepiece and where your priorities lie. As I’ve hopefully explained, this British watchmaker has done a great job at balancing quality, innovation, and affordability so honestly, there’s a good chance you’ll find something to suit your needs.

In particular, Christopher Ward caters to those who appreciate independent brands and value both design and function.

If you’re someone who admires the craftsmanship of luxury timepieces but finds their prices daunting, Christopher Ward offers an excellent alternative. They’re perfect for enthusiasts who want high-quality materials, innovative features, and Swiss-made movements without paying a luxury premium. 

Their appeal also extends to people who enjoy technical ingenuity. The brand is renowned for creating affordable watches with complications that would typically come with astronomical price tags. Not to bring up their Bel Canto again, but a chiming watch that retails for just over $4,000 is unheard of. It delivers a complication so rare that its closest competitors cost thousands more. 

Of course, while Christopher Ward offers a lot, they may not be the right fit for everyone. Traditionalists who seek a storied heritage or brand prestige might lean toward household names like Rolex, Omega, or Patek Philippe.

Christopher Ward, being a relatively new and independent British brand, doesn’t carry the same legacy or cultural cachet. If owning a watch from a brand with centuries of history is important to you, this might be a dealbreaker. 

But if it was me, I wouldn’t hesitate to choose a Christopher Ward for my collection. In fact, I have several, and I’m currently wearing my The Twelve 36 while writing this article.

Their watches have yet to let me down, and I’ve found them to be an excellent choice if you want that luxury feel without the luxury price tag. They also have a wide range of styles, case sizes, complications, and dial colors to choose from, so you’re guaranteed to find something to suit your taste. 

Conclusion 

It might have taken twenty or so years to have heard of their name, but I truly believe Christopher Ward to be a watchmaker worth keeping an eye on. From their humble beginnings in a chicken shed to winning international acclaim, they’ve proven that luxury doesn’t have to come with a six-figure price tag. 

This is a brand for those who value quality and innovation over flashy logos, who appreciate transparency in a traditionally secretive industry, and who want a watch that tells a story as much as it tells the time. Their ability to combine cutting-edge complications with affordable pricing is difficult to compete with and they are a watchmaker I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend to you, or anyone else. 

So, should you get a Christopher Ward watch? If you’re ready to embrace independent and affordable watchmaking at its finest, the answer is a resounding yes.

sarb017 vs spb121

Seiko SARB017 vs SPB121: Which is the Superior Alpinist?

Charlotte H

March 2, 2025

If you’re a Seiko fan or even just a casual watch lover, chances are you’ve heard of the Seiko Alpinist. This also means you’ve probably heard of, or at least seen in passing, either the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 or SPB121. With their green dials, golden accents, and signature internal compass bezels, these two models have become, for many collectors, the flagship Alpinist. 

But yes, these are two gateway watches that look almost identical. They are two very similar versions of the Alpinist, so understandably, many of us struggle to comprehend the differences between them, which makes it hard to pick between the two when it comes to purchasing one for our own wrists. 

But alas, there are a few differences to note. While the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 is the oldest of the two, and now sadly discontinued, the SPB121 is still holding strong in Seiko’s lineup.

You might have also spotted a few tweaks to the case dimensions, movement, and case back décor. These might not seem like big differences, but as any watch collector will argue, these small details can make all the difference. 

So, to help you decide between the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 and SPB121, let’s take a look at what each of these watches have to offer.

Why the Seiko Alpinist in the First Place? 

Seiko is probably best known for their diving watches, otherwise known as the Prospex collection, or their luxury sister company Grand Seiko. However, another family considered a big deal, especially with collectors who appreciate retro design, is the Seiko Alpinist. 

It’s a watch that debuted in 1961 and made history as Seiko’s first-ever “sports watch.” It was designed to be a rugged, reliable timepiece that could withstand the harsh conditions faced by mountain climbers in Japan. It had to be tough, legible, and ready to handle the great outdoors. 

The original Alpinist, named the Seiko Laurel, was a true milestone for the brand. It featured the now-iconic arrow markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9, and was available in black and cream dials. In the watch-collecting world, these inaugural versions are considered the holy grails of Alpinists. 

Fast forward to today, and the Alpinist has evolved into one of Seiko’s most beloved models. Its popularity skyrocketed with the release of the SARB017 (yes, one of the models we’re looking at today), which became a collector’s favorite before it was discontinued. 

Other modern-day models like the Baby Alpinist have also proved the collection’s popularity. Truthfully, the Alpinist, in all its forms, deserves a place in any collector’s watch box, but as I’m sure you’ve realized by now, the Seiko SARB017 and SPB121 are two of the most coveted – and for good reason.

The Seiko SARB017

Seiko SARB017 Alpinist

Aside from the Seiko Laurel, the Alpinist SARB017 might just be one of the most important designs to join the explorer-inspired line-up. Released in 2006 as part of the brand’s SARB series, this model represented the fifth generation of the Alpinist. 

Its release came at the perfect time when the watch enthusiast community was beginning to grow, and the SARB017 quickly became a favorite of collectors worldwide. 

One of the most notable features of the SARB017 is its stunning sunburst emerald green dial. This striking color, complemented by gold-plated Arabic numerals and dagger-shaped hour markers, gave the watch a distinct and refined look that set it apart from other models. 

The gold accents paired beautifully with the brown alligator-textured leather strap, creating a watch that was both rugged and elegant. The dial also features elegant cathedral-style hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. 

Another notable feature of the SARB017 was its internal rotating compass bezel. This unique feature, combined with the watch’s legible dial and durable 38mm stainless steel case, made it a versatile piece that could easily transition from outdoor adventures to more formal settings. 

The rotating bezel, which could be adjusted with a second crown at 4 o’clock, gave the watch a functional yet subtle flair, tucking neatly into the design without overwhelming it.

The design also boasted the brand’s in-house Caliber 6R15 mechanical movement, which offered an impressive 23 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. 

Although the SARB017 was initially a Japan Domestic Model (JDM) release, making it difficult to find outside Japan, its allure only grew as word spread.

The SARB017 became a sought-after “forbidden fruit” for collectors around the world. Its limited availability, combined with its stunning design and functionality, created a sense of exclusivity that fuelled its growing demand.

The Seiko SPB121

Seiko SPB121 Alpinist

For the newer Seiko Alpinist SPB121, I almost think of this novelty as a love letter to the SARB017. It’s clearly designed with the same core appeal but updated with a few thoughtful tweaks.

Seiko recognized the SARB017’s massive fanbase and how coveted it became after its discontinuation, so they essentially took everything collectors loved about the Alpinist and gave it a modern refresh. 

The green sunburst dial is back, just as striking as before, along with the signature gold-plated hour markers and hands that give the watch its distinct character. The rotating internal bezel also makes a return, as does the classic brown leather strap, making the SPB121 feel like an evolution of the iconic SARB017.

While the design closely mirrors its predecessor, there are some key changes that make the SPB121 a little different. For one, the case has grown ever so slightly, from 38mm to 39.5mm, making it feel a bit more substantial on the wrist. 

The thickness has also increased from 12mm to 13.2mm, adding a more solid presence, which further adds to the Alpinist’s rugged elegance.

Another noticeable upgrade is the exhibition case back, giving owners a clear view of the new movement inside Seiko’s in-house Calibre 6R35. This movement offers a substantial boost in power reserve, now clocking in at 70 hours compared to the 6R15’s 50-hour reserve. 

There are also some other subtle tweaks on the dial, like the slightly redesigned dial text and the reintroduction of the cyclops date magnifier. The Prospex “X” logo replaces the previous Diashock branding to mark the model’s new home in Seiko’s dive watch line. 

Despite these upgrades, the SPB121 maintains the soul of the SARB017, offering collectors the same style and functionality that made the original such a hit. Of course, these enhancements come with a slightly higher price tag. The newest model retails for around $725 new, compared to the $700 launch price of the SARB017. 

However, considering that the SARB017 now regularly fetches upwards of $1,000 on the second-hand market, the SPB121 represents a more accessible way to get your hands on a modern Alpinist, while still enjoying all the nostalgic charm of the original.

Seiko SARB017 vs SPB121 – How to Choose 

When deciding between the Seiko SARB017 and the Seiko SPB121, there are a few important factors to consider that will help you determine which model suits you best. Both watches share a common heritage, with the SPB121 being a direct successor to the SARB017, but there are enough differences to make each model unique, and appealing to different types of collectors. 

The Case Size and Fit 

One of the first things you’ll notice when comparing the two watches is their size. The Seiko SARB017 comes with a 38mm case diameter, while the SPB121 is slightly larger at 39.5mm. 

For those with smaller wrists, or those who simply prefer a more compact watch, the SARB017’s 38mm case might be the better fit. It’s a classic size that maintains the Alpinist’s rugged yet elegant look without feeling too bulky. Additionally, the SARB017’s slimmer 12mm thickness makes it comfortable and unobtrusive on the wrist. 

On the other hand, if you have larger wrists or prefer a more substantial watch, the SPB121 might be a better choice. The 39.5mm case diameter, coupled with the slightly increased thickness of 13.2mm, gives the SPB121 a more robust presence. The larger case size also makes the SPB121 a bit more modern in feel, while still retaining the Alpinist’s charm. 

Movement and Power Reserve 

Another significant difference between these two watches is their movements. The SARB017 uses Seiko’s 6R15 automatic movement, which has been a reliable and well-loved workhorse in the world of affordable mechanical watches. 

However, the movement offers a power reserve of 50 hours, which is great for daily wear but might fall short if you’re someone who tends to rotate watches over the weekend and leave one off for a few days at a time. 

The SPB121, on the other hand, is powered by the newer Seiko 6R35 movement. This movement offers a notable improvement with a 70-hour power reserve, meaning that it can last through an entire weekend without needing to be wound. 

For those who like to take a break from wearing their watch on the weekends and don’t want to worry about winding it up again, this increased power reserve is a clear advantage. Plus, the SPB121’s 6R35 movement is slightly more refined and updated compared to the 6R15, making it an attractive choice for those seeking a more modern technical upgrade. 

Additionally, the SPB121 comes with an exhibition case back, which allows you to admire the movement in all its mechanical glory. This is a welcome touch for many watch wearers who appreciate seeing the inner workings of their timepieces. 

The SARB017, however, keeps things more classic with a solid stainless steel case back that features the Alpinist logo. While it may not have the same “show-off” quality as the SPB121, the SARB017’s case back is part of its vintage charm and speaks to the history and heritage of the model. 

Dial Design 

When it comes to the dial, the SPB121 stays remarkably true to the SARB017’s iconic green sunburst dial. The color remains the same, with the gold-plated hour markers and hands that give the watch its distinct character. 

However, there are some refinements in the SPB121, including a cleaner dial with less text and the reintroduction of the cyclops date magnifier at 3 o’clock, which gives the dial a slightly more contemporary look. 

The SARB017, on the other hand, has the original Alpinist logo and a slightly more vintage feel with its classic design and cluttered dial text.

Much of this is down to the lettering detailing its Diashock movement. It might not be an important thing to denote for some of you, but it does give it that nostalgic allure that the SPB121, despite its many strengths, can’t quite replicate. 

Which One Is Right for You? 

If you’re after a more modern take on the classic Alpinist, the SPB121 is likely the better choice. With its larger case, upgraded movement, exhibition case back, and improved power reserve, it offers a more contemporary experience without straying too far from the original design that made the SARB017 so beloved. 

However, if you’re someone who appreciates the vintage feel and charm of the original Alpinist, the SARB017 is going to appeal more. It’s more compact, offers a classic design, and carries with it the weight of Seiko’s rich history. 

If you already own the SARB017, you might also be asking if upgrading to the SPB121 is worth it. For myself, and I’m sure many others, too, the answer is no.  While the SPB121 does bring some meaningful improvements, the SARB017 still offers incredible value and remains a classic in its own right.

Conclusion

In the end, choosing between the Seiko SARB017 and the SPB121 comes down to your personal preferences.

If you’re after a more substantial, modern watch with a longer power reserve, a slightly larger case, and a refined design, the SPB121 is the way to go. However, if you’re drawn to Seiko’s rich history, a more compact size, and vintage-inspired look, the SARB017 will be your favorite. 

Honestly, though, you can’t go wrong with either model. Both watches offer outstanding storytelling, impressive technology, and exceptional design at a great price.

So whether you leave here to shop a pre-owned SARB017 on the second-hand market or go for a brand-new SPB121 from your local authorized Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces, I promise you won’t be disappointed with your choice.

rolex datejust vs day date

Rolex Datejust vs Day-Date: Which Rolex Icon is Right for You?

Charlotte H

February 28, 2025

Rolex is the ultimate watch icon. It’s a brand everyone knows, and that’s due to its reputation for luxury, precision, and style. But because Rolex is a big brand, there are many incredible models in its lineup to choose from, making it difficult to know which Rolex watch is right for you. 

If you’re like me, and you prefer something that’s equal parts sophisticated and durable, a watch that seamlessly pairs with a tux or LBD as it does for a weekend adventuring up mountains or simply tackling some DIY, then you’re probably eyeing up one of these two timeless legends: the Rolex Datejust or the Rolex Day-Date. 

But which one is right for you? In this guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know about these two Rolex watches. From their storied histories and famous fans to the endless customization options that make each watch uniquely yours, we’ll help you decide which Rolex deserves a place on your wrist.

The Rolex Datejust Collection

Datejust 31mm

Rolex has always had a knack for shaping the history of horology, and the Datejust is one of its crowning achievements. Introduced in 1945 to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary, the Datejust certainly made a mark in the watch world. On its release, it became the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to feature an automatic date change at midnight. 

The inaugural Datejust (Reference 4467) featured a 36mm gold case, a fluted bezel, and the now-iconic Jubilee bracelet, which Rolex designed specifically for this model. Fun fact: the Jubilee name was almost given to the watch itself! Over time, the Datejust evolved but always remained true to its original purpose, which was to remain a versatile, timeless watch suitable for any occasion. 

By the 1950s, Rolex introduced stainless steel and two-tone Rolesor versions, making the Datejust more accessible and stylish. 

They also added the Cyclops lens in 1953, magnifying the date display and cementing it as a signature feature. With each decade, the Datejust gained new innovations, like quickset date functionality in the 1970s and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal in the 1980s. By 2009, the Datejust II brought a larger 41mm option for modern tastes, which was refined further in 2016 with the Datejust 41. 

Characteristics of the Rolex Datejust

  • Cyclops Lens: This tiny magnifying bubble above the date window doesn’t just improve legibility but it’s also one of Rolex’s most recognizable design elements.
  • Instantaneous Date Change: Unlike other watches where the date slowly creeps forward, the Datejust flips the date precisely at midnight, thanks to its innovative movement.
  • Oyster Case: Waterproof and durable, the Oyster case has been a hallmark of Rolex watches since 1926, ensuring the Datejust can handle life’s surprises.
  • Perpetual Movement: The Datejust features a self-winding movement with a perpetual rotor, guaranteeing accurate timekeeping without the need for manual winding.
  • Versatile Bracelets: Whether you prefer the elegant five-link Jubilee bracelet, the sporty three-link Oyster bracelet, or the luxurious President bracelet, the Datejust offers options to suit every wrist. 

Famous Rolex Datejust Models 

Over the decades, the Datejust has graced the wrists of celebrities, world leaders, and pop culture icons. Here are a few standout models and their stories:

  • Datejust 126231 – Also known as the “Wimbledon” Model, this was a collaboration with tennis legend Roger Federer, which saw the Datejust pair a steel and rose gold case with a slate-grey dial and green Roman numerals. It’s sporty, sophisticated, and completely unique.
  • Datejust 126200 – The Palm Dial Datejust features an olive-green, palm-leaf-patterned dial and highlights Rolex’s playful side.
  • Datejust 278289RBR – For those who prefer their wrist candy with a touch of sparkle, this model features diamond hour markers and a mother-of-pearl dial, perfectly blending luxury and femininity.
  • Rolex Thunderbird – In the 1950s, Rolex added a Turn-O-Graph bezel to the Datejust, creating the “Thunderbird.” This model became the official watch of the U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds squadron. 

Beyond these models, the Datejust has been a fixture in pop culture. Matthew McConaughey wore one in The Wolf of Wall Street, and icons like Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., Michael Jordan, and Winston Churchill all owned Datejusts. 

Rolex Datejust Sizes and Options 

One of the Rolex Datejust’s most remarkable qualities is its unparalleled versatility, making it a timepiece that suits virtually every style and wrist size. It comes in a range of dimensions from the petite 28mm Lady-Datejust to the bold 41mm option. 

The material options are just as diverse, spanning from the classic elegance of stainless steel to the luxurious allure of solid gold or platinum. For those who appreciate a mix of metals, the Rolesor combination of steel and gold looks and feels exceptional. 

The customization extends beyond size and materials. The Datejust’s bezels, available in smooth, fluted, or diamond-set designs, offer something for every aesthetic preference, with the fluted bezel in gold standing as a signature element of Rolex craftsmanship. 

Dial choices are equally expansive, ranging from classic sunburst finishes to eye-catching patterns like the palm motif, with hour markers that vary from understated indices to sparkling diamonds. Completing the ensemble, the Datejust’s bracelets include the elegant Jubilee, the sporty Oyster, and the iconic President.

The Rolex Day-Date Collection 

Rolex Day-Date 40 Gold President Green Dial (ref. 228238-0061)

The Rolex Day-Date, often referred to as the “President,” has a history intertwined with some of the most influential figures of the 20th century. Introduced in 1956, the Day-Date was revolutionary as the first wristwatch to display the day of the week spelled out in full alongside the date. This innovation, protected under a Swiss patent, cemented the model as a symbol of sophistication and functionality. 

Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf, was a master of strategic marketing. He believed in the power of association and used product placement to position Rolex as a symbol of achievement. By gifting notable figures like Swiss General Henri Guisan, Winston Churchill, and Dwight Eisenhower with Rolex watches, Wilsdorf associated the brand with leadership and excellence. 

Eisenhower’s gold Day-Date, which he wore during his presidency, is one of the most famous examples of this strategy. Although the nickname “President” originally referred to the bracelet designed specifically for the Day-Date, it quickly became synonymous with the entire watch, partly due to its association with U.S. presidents like Lyndon B. Johnson, who was known to wear the model prominently. 

Beyond its ties to world leaders, the Day-Date has been a hallmark of Rolex’s commitment to craftsmanship and luxury. Available exclusively in precious metals like gold and platinum, the watch has maintained its elite status for decades. Whether through its technical innovations or its cultural significance, the Rolex Day-Date remains a symbol of prestige and timeless elegance. 

Characteristics of the Rolex Day-Date

  • Dual Calendar Display: The Day-Date’s most famous feature is its numerical date at 3 o’clock and the day of the week spelled out in full at 12 o’clock, available in 26 languages.
  • Oyster Case: Waterproof up to 100 meters, ensuring durability and practicality for everyday use.
  • Material Excellence: Crafted exclusively from 18-carat gold (yellow, white, or Everose) or 950 platinum, all sourced from Rolex’s in-house foundry.
  • Bezel Options: Available in smooth, fluted, textured, or gem-set designs to suit different tastes.
  • President Bracelet: Introduced alongside the Day-Date in 1956, it features semi-circular, three-piece links and a hidden Crownclasp
  • Advanced Movements: Equipped with the Caliber 3255 in modern models, offering improved precision, a longer power reserve, and enhanced durability. 

Famous Rolex Day-Date Models 

Over its history, the Day-Date has been reimagined through various models that cater to collectors and connoisseurs alike:

  • Day-Date Ref. 6510 and 6511: The original models from 1956 featuring smooth and fluted bezels, these were the first watches to display the day and date in full.
  • Rolex Stella Dial Models: Known for their bold lacquered dials in vibrant colors, these models are highly sought after by collectors.
  • Day-Date II (41mm): Introduced in 2008, this larger version of the classic Day-Date was discontinued in 2015 but remains popular among those seeking a bolder design.
  • Exotic Material Dials: Models with meteorite, mother-of-pearl, or semi-precious stone dials have become incredibly popular, showcasing Rolex’s design prowess.
  • Rolex Day-Date “Rainbow” Editions: Limited-edition models with multi-colored gem-set bezels that are both rare and dazzling. 

Rolex Day-Date Sizes and Options 

Like the Datejust, there’s no shortage of Rolex Day-Date options to suit a range of wrist sizes and tastes. While the original 36mm size remains a classic, the collection has expanded to include 40mm options for those seeking a more contemporary look. Although the Day-Date II in 41mm was discontinued, it remains a popular choice among collectors looking for a pre-owned Rolex with bold proportions. 

Dial options include traditional stick indices, Roman or Arabic numerals, and diamond-set markers. Color choices range from classic tones like champagne and silver to striking shades like green and blue. Exotic dials featuring semi-precious stones or rare materials, such as lapis lazuli or meteorite, are also available but harder to obtain.

The President bracelet, introduced alongside the original Day-Date, remains the most iconic bracelet option. Its semi-circular, three-piece links and hidden Crownclasp exemplify Rolex’s attention to detail. While the President bracelet is exclusive to the Day-Date, some models have been paired with Oyster bracelets or leather straps for added versatility.

Rolex Datejust vs Day-Date – How to Choose 

When it comes to choosing between the Rolex Datejust and Day-Date, the decision isn’t simply about functionality or design but about the statement you want to make. Both watches are quintessentially Rolex, sharing iconic design elements like the Oyster case and Cyclops lens. And yet, each model has its own unique character, appealing to different tastes, lifestyles, and budgets. 

For many, the Rolex Datejust is the most versatile of the two. It’s available in a wide range of sizes from as little as 28mm all the way to 41mm. There’s also plenty of case metal options, from classic steel to luxurious two-tone Rolesor versions and dial colors, so no matter your preferences in terms of aesthetics, there’s guaranteed to be something to suit your tastes. 

The Rolex Day-Date, on the other hand, is more focused on its offerings. Available exclusively in precious metals (yellow gold, white gold, Everose gold, and platinum), it is the ultimate symbol of prestige. Case sizes are also a little more limited to 36mm and 40mm. But it’s the Day-Date’s limited configurations that emphasize its exclusivity, catering to wearers who want to make a statement. 

Both watches feature Rolex’s hallmark date complication, magnified by the Cyclops lens. However, the Day-Date takes it a step further with the addition of a day display spelled out in full at 12 o’clock. 

Available in 26 languages, this feature adds a layer of sophistication and practicality, especially for professionals or travelers who value detailed timekeeping. The Datejust, by contrast, embraces simplicity. Its focus is on practicality and everyday wearability, making it the ideal choice for someone who values elegance without added complexity. 

Finally, we should mention the price. Since the Rolex Day-Date is crafted exclusively from precious metals, it’s understandably more expensive than the Datejust. In fact, even entry-level Day-Date models start at around five times the price of a steel Datejust. For example, some of the most affordable Datejust models retail for around $7,000 brand new, while the cheapest Day-Date is currently around $40,000 brand new.

Conclusion

At the end of the day, whether you’re drawn to the Rolex Datejust or the Day-Date, you really can’t go wrong. Both are absolute masterpieces, showcasing Rolex’s genius for design, craftsmanship, and that unmistakable blend of style and functionality. 

The choice between the two ultimately boils down to what fits your personality, lifestyle, and budget. If you’re after a watch that’s endlessly versatile, then the Datejust is the one. It’s practical, accessible, and offers so many options that there’s genuinely something for everyone. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a watch that makes a statement, something bold, luxurious, and a little bit exclusive, the Day-Date is hard to beat. 

As long as you choose the watch that speaks to you, you’ll never go wrong. Both the Datejust and Day-Date are exceptional in their own right, both icons of craftsmanship and design. No matter what others might say or which one seems to be the more popular choice, the decision should always come down to what feels right for you.

rolex oyster perpetual datejust fake vs real

Rolex Datejust Fake vs Real – How to Tell Them Apart

Charlotte H

February 26, 2025

If you’re new to the world of watches and you’ve always had your eye on a Rolex, the marketplace full of new and pre-owned models can be a bit overwhelming. We all know by now that Rolex isn’t the easiest of brands to get hold of for a number of reasons, but for many of us, that just makes this watchmaker all the more tempting. 

Especially when it comes to their Datejust watch. It’s an iconic piece with the iconic Oyster case, oversized Cyclops lens, and statement-fluted bezel. 

But when shopping for a Rolex Datejust, how do you know which models are genuine and which are fake? In this guide, we’ll be exploring how to spot a fake Rolex Datejust and how to ensure the one you eventually purchase is the real deal.

The Telltale Signs of a Fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust

Rolex Datejust 36

There are a number of ways to spot a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust over a real genuine piece. Sure, trained watchmakers and technicians will be able to notice these details quicker than any of us average watch collectors, but that’s not to say you can’t notice a fake Rolex too. Here are some things to look for: 

Check for Quality 

A real Rolex will look and feel like a real Rolex. The materials will feel heavy and of high quality and the finish will be exceptional. For example, Rolex uses a special 904L grade stainless steel called Oystersteel, which is so tough that it moonlights in the aerospace industry. If your watch doesn’t have that hefty, solid feel or the craftsmanship seems off, alarm bells should be ringing. 

A genuine Rolex will also have a nice perfect blend of brushed and polished finishes. Any uneven textures are a big red flag, and the crown, that little knob on the side of the case, should feel smooth and precise when you’re winding the movement inside.

Another way to test the quality is by strapping the Rolex to your wrist. How does it wear? Does the clasp feel secure and satisfyingly click into place? If it feels flimsy, step away. 

Serial & Model Number Engravings 

All genuine Rolex watches, from Datejust to Submariner to GMT Master II watches, will have serial and model numbers. They are commonly found between the lugs on the side of the case at the 6 o’clock side, behind the bracelet. The numbers should be laser-cut, razor-sharp, and glint in the light. If they look blurred or have dotted numbers, there’s a chance you’re dealing with a fake. 

Fakes also sometimes reuse the same serial numbers on multiple watches, but each Rolex should have a unique set of identifiers. We always recommend using a Rolex serial number checker if you’re unsure. 

Markings 

The Rolex crown emblem isn’t just decoration but also a symbol of authenticity. If the logo or the “Rolex” name is missing anywhere, like on the crown or dial, then it’s a fake. Even if they’re not missing, check for the quality of these details. For example, misaligned logos won’t happen with Rolex. They pride themselves on quality and precision, after all. 

Movement 

Inside every genuine Rolex Datejust is an in-house movement. This means the movement has been made by the Swiss watchmakers themselves, so it’s not an easy thing to replicate. If you can open the back (we don’t recommend doing this yourself unless you’re feeling up to the task), you should be able to see a movement that is breathtakingly detailed and engraved. 

Rolex is also known for manufacturing predominantly mechanical movements, with their quartz watches being a rare exception. So, if you spot a quartz caliber where there shouldn’t be one, that’s a big tell-tale sign you’re handling a fake Rolex Datejust. 

Dial, Hands, & Finishing 

The dial is often considered the soul of a Rolex, and it’s here that the brand’s attention to detail often shines. Everything from the fonts used for the lettering to the spacing and alignment of hour markers is executed with precision. 

A counterfeit watch will often falter in these areas, displaying smudged details, uneven lettering, or hour markers that are misaligned. Carefully inspect the dial under good lighting and compare it to official Rolex images. Any noticeable discrepancies could indicate a fake. 

Cyclops 

The Cyclops lens is a signature feature of the Rolex Datejust that magnifies the date display by 2.5 times. This magnification is achieved with incredible clarity, and the lens itself is slightly domed. On a fake, the Cyclops lens may fail to provide the proper magnification or may even lie flat against the crystal. 

Examine the lens closely and check for a distorted or undersized date magnification. Genuine Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust watches will have a Cyclops lens that is seamlessly integrated into the design.

Water Resistance

Thanks to the Oyster case, Rolex Datejust watches are designed to endure harsh conditions, including significant water pressure up to 100 meters. This means every watch undergoes rigorous testing to ensure its water resistance capabilities. 

Counterfeit watches often lack the precise engineering needed to create a watertight seal, which is why they fail under pressure—literally. While it’s not advisable to test this at home, professional water resistance tests can easily expose a fake. 

Weight 

The weight of a Rolex is another giveaway. Authentic Rolex watches are crafted from high-quality metals and components, giving them a solid, luxurious heft. If a watch feels surprisingly light, it’s likely made from inferior materials, which is common in counterfeits. 

If you have a particular Rolex Datejust in mind, a quick internet search should help you identify the weight of a genuine watch. You can then compare this to the weight of the model you’re looking to purchase to help you make an informed decision. 

Clear Case Back 

Most Rolex watches, including the Datejust, are known for their solid case backs. Transparent case backs, often showcasing the movement, are almost always a sign of a fake unless you’re dealing with a very specific vintage or rare edition. If you encounter a clear case back on what’s supposed to be a Datejust, it’s time to question its authenticity.

Caseback Engravings 

The case back of a Rolex Datejust is typically smooth and unmarked for most modern models. Any flashy engravings or elaborate designs are immediate red flags unless they’re specific to a limited-edition or vintage release. 

Examine the case back for consistency with the expected design of a Datejust. Again, asking the internet for examples of genuine Datejust case backs can be really helpful with this. 

Micro-etched Crystal 

Last but certainly not least, one of the best ways to spot a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust is to check the micro-etched crystal. Since 2002, Rolex has included a subtle micro-etched crown logo on the crystal at the 6 o’clock position. This detail is almost invisible to the naked eye and requires magnification to see. 

Counterfeit watches often fail to replicate this etching accurately, resulting in sloppy, oversized, or even missing logos. Use a magnifying glass to inspect this feature, as it’s one of the more intricate details that sets a genuine Rolex apart from a counterfeit.

Are Fake Rolex Datejust Watches Worth It?

In short: no, they’re not. Sure, a fake Rolex Datejust might seem like an appealing option at first, especially when replicas have gotten increasingly sophisticated in appearance. However, the reality behind these counterfeit timepieces is far less glamorous. 

For example, genuine Rolex watches are meticulously crafted from premium materials and high-end movements. That’s why they have the reputation they do. If you opt for a fake Rolex, you’re going to end up wasting money on a watch that might not even work, have tarnished metals and loose components, and not look like the quality timepiece you were hoping for. 

For many, Rolexes are also an investment piece with authentic models holding their value or even appreciating over time. Counterfeit watches, however, have no resale value. You’re essentially throwing money away on something that won’t retain any long-term worth. 

Finally, purchasing counterfeit goods supports an illegal industry that often has ties to organized crime and unethical labor practices. By buying a fake, you may inadvertently contribute to exploitative working conditions or other illicit activities. Beyond the legal risks, wearing a counterfeit Rolex means knowingly carrying a falsehood on your wrist, which doesn’t feel quite as cool as owning the real deal.

How to Avoid Getting a Fake Rolex Datejust

Rolex Datejust

The world of second hand luxury watches can be exciting, but it’s also rife with pitfalls. Ensuring the authenticity of your Rolex Datejust requires a keen eye and a methodical approach. Here are some key steps: 

Buy From Authorized Dealers 

When it comes to buying a Rolex Datejust, purchasing from an authorized dealer will always and forever be your safest bet. These retailers operate directly under Rolex’s stringent guidelines, ensuring that every watch they sell is 100% authentic and comes with proper documentation. Not only will you receive a genuine timepiece, but you’ll also benefit from warranties and post-purchase services that protect your investment for years to come.

Authorized dealers are also fully trained to provide a premium experience and can answer any questions you have about your watch. If you’re buying new, this route offers the ultimate peace of mind, knowing your Rolex’s origins are beyond question. 

Research the Seller 

In the second hand market, doing your homework on the seller is important. Start by confirming their credibility, like checking their reviews, searching for customer testimonials, and looking for a consistent online presence on reputable platforms. Experienced and reliable sellers will often have a traceable history of transactions, making it easier to trust their listings.

Never be afraid to ask detailed questions about the watch, such as its history, condition, and any accompanying documentation. We also suggest requesting high-resolution images or videos from multiple angles, especially of key details like the serial number and dial. A trustworthy seller will happily accommodate these requests and will always offer full transparency about the item they’re selling. 

Verify the Watch 

Serial numbers are one of the first things you should verify when buying a Rolex Datejust, as they act as unique identifiers for each watch. Ensure the serial number corresponds with the model and production year, and if you notice any inconsistencies, don’t take the risk.

As mentioned earlier, you can also judge the craftsmanship of the timepiece. Beyond numbers, Rolex craftsmanship is renowned for its flawless execution, so examine the dial for clean lines, perfectly aligned markers, and a smooth finish. 

Also, check the case and engravings to ensure they are precise and deeply etched and not rough or uneven. Rolex watches also have a distinct weight due to their high-quality materials, so if the watch feels unusually light, it could be a counterfeit. 

Trust Your Gut 

Sometimes, the best tool you have is your intuition. If you notice discrepancies in the seller’s story, observe inconsistencies in the watch’s appearance, or feel uneasy about the deal, it’s better to walk away than to take a risk. 

Red flags can appear in subtle ways, such as if the seller is reluctant to answer questions or a watch is priced far below market value. Authentic Rolex purchases should feel straightforward and legitimate, so if any part of the transaction feels rushed, confusing, or suspicious, trust your gut and seek out other options.

Conclusion

We promise that finding and buying a genuine Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust is worth it. It’s worth taking the time to do your research, checking the small details, and spending more for the real thing. 

The satisfaction of knowing you own an authentic piece far outweighs the shortcuts that lead to disappointment. And hopefully now, since you know what to look for and how to stick to reputable sellers, you’ll be able to find a genuine Rolex Datejust with confidence and ease.

Audemars Piguet vs Rolex: Battle Between Two Luxury Giants

Charlotte H

December 27, 2024

There aren’t many watch brands that can stand up to Rolex. This Swiss giant is known as one of the best of the best for a reason. And yet, there are one or two names that are as equally synonymous with prestige and craftsmanship. One such brand is Audemars Piguet.

If you’re someone new to the watch world, it’s understandable if you feel a little overwhelmed and inundated with options. There are so many fantastic watches and watch manufacturers out here that it can be difficult to know where to start. 

That’s where we come in—here’s your starting point, a guide to help you compare two of the biggest names in the industry and decide which one deserves a place not just on your radar but on your wrist.

Both Rolex and Audemars Piguet are Swiss legends, but they have different histories, technologies and, most obviously, cater to very different tastes. Audemars Piguet’s bold innovation and artistry contrast with Rolex’s timeless elegance and undeniable versatility. But which one deserves a spot on your wrist? 

In this article, we’ll dive into everything you need to know about Rolex and Audemars Piguet, from their groundbreaking contributions to the industry to their standout collections and the technologies and complications involved. By the end, you’ll have a clear picture of which brand is the perfect match for your style, personality, and lifestyle. 

Brand Heritage

A Quick History of Rolex 

Rolex’s story begins in 1905, and not in Switzerland as you might expect, but in London. Hans Wilsdorf, a young visionary with a passion for precision, teamed up with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis to create Wilsdorf & Davis, a company focused on crafting high-quality wristwatches. Back then, wristwatches were still finding their way into mainstream popularity, but Wilsdorf saw their potential and aimed to make them both accurate and elegant. 

In 1908, the name “Rolex” was born. It was short, memorable, and easy to say in any language. Just a few years later, in 1910, Rolex achieved a groundbreaking milestone by becoming the first wristwatch brand to receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision, setting the tone for its reputation as a leader in accuracy. 

World War I brought changes to everyone, including Rolex, and in 1919, the company relocated to Geneva, Switzerland, to escape heavy British taxes on luxury goods. With this move, the brand truly began to flourish. The iconic Rolex Oyster debuted in 1926 as the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, and in 1931, Rolex introduced one of the first self-winding mechanisms.

Fast-forward to 1953, when the Rolex Submariner landed, becoming a symbol of adventure and one of the Swiss watchmaker’s best-known models. Today, Rolex is possibly the most familiar watch brand in the world, with everyone and their uncle knowing the crown logo, whether they’re into luxury timepieces or not.

A Quick History of Audemars Piguet

Unlike Rolex, Audemars Piguet was born in Switzerland, and it’s where the company has stayed ever since its founding in 1875. Its story started when two ambitious young watchmakers, Jules-Louis Audemars, and Edward-Auguste Piguet, joined forces to create what would become one of the most revered names in the horological world. 

Their partnership was the perfect blend of talents. Audemars focused on crafting intricate, complicated movements, while Piguet took charge of ensuring their precision and managing the business side of things. 

By 1881, their growing reputation led to the official establishment of Audemars Piguet & Cie, and they quickly set themselves apart from so many in the industry. While many brands embraced industrialized production – like Rolex – Audemars Piguet chose the artisanal route, crafting every timepiece with painstaking care, hand-finishing, and collaborating with local artisans. 

In 1892, Audemars Piguet created the world’s first minute-repeating wristwatch movement, a feat that showcased their flair for blending tradition with bold innovation. Fast forward to 1972, and the Swiss watchmaker shook the industry once again with the legendary AP Royal Oak, the world’s first luxury sports watch. Its edgy steel design and octagonal bezel remain synonymous with bold and brilliant watchmaking.

Model Variety

Rolex 

When it comes to variety, Rolex has pretty much a bit of everything. At the core of its offerings is the Oyster Perpetual, a foundational design that defines much of the brand’s lineup. With its waterproof case and self-winding movement, the Oyster Perpetual serves as the backbone for collections like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Datejust. 

Even Rolex’s sportier models, such as the Daytona or Explorer, share this DNA. However, not everything revolves around the Oyster case, with dressier lines like the Cellini and the recently introduced 1908 catering to those who prefer a more traditional, elegant look. 

Rolex also excels in creating options for every wrist size and aesthetic preference. Case sizes range from a petite 31mm to a bold 44mm, ensuring a comfortable fit for everyone, regardless of gender or wrist size. 

The brand also offers a dazzling array of case materials, from classic stainless steel to luxurious yellow, white, or Everose gold, and even platinum. For dial choices, the sky’s the limit, from classic silvers and navy to pastel pinks, vibrant greens, and diamond-encrusted designs.

This incredible range of designs, sizes, and styles is what makes Rolex so appealing. No matter your lifestyle or taste, it’s almost impossible not to find a Rolex that feels suited to you and your tastes. 

Audemars Piguet 

On the other hand, Audemars Piguet’s collections are a little more limiting. If you’re like much of the watch community, you’ve probably only heard of one AP watch: the Royal Oak. 

Since its debut in 1972, this iconic design has been the centerpiece of Audemars Piguet’s lineup, with its bold octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, and stunning finishes. It’s a watch that has changed the landscape of luxury sports watches forever, and it remains the brand’s crown jewel. 

Within the Royal Oak family, there’s a surprising amount of variety. You’ll find options in stainless steel, gold, titanium, and even ceramic, along with dials that range from the classic “Tapisserie” pattern to partial or full skeleton designs. 

For those who love complications, the Royal Oak lineup also offers everything from perpetual calendars to chronographs and flying tourbillons, showcasing AP’s technical prowess. 

If the Royal Oak isn’t sporty enough, the Royal Oak Offshore, introduced in 1993, adds a bolder, more rugged twist to the design. And for the truly avant-garde, there’s the Royal Oak Concept collection, which pushes the boundaries of design with over-the-top crown protectors and large screw-decorated bezels. 

Beyond the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet does offer a few alternatives, such as the retro-inspired [Re]master or the dressy, contemporary Code 11.59 collection. However, these models don’t enjoy the same spotlight as their Royal Oak siblings.

The downside? If you’re not a fan of the Royal Oak’s distinctive integrated design, your choices within Audemars Piguet’s lineup are quite limited. Still, for those who appreciate bold design and groundbreaking technology, the Royal Oak and its many variations are nothing short of extraordinary.

Design

When it comes to design principles, Rolex and Audemars Piguet sit at opposite ends of the spectrum. They both have a distinct design philosophy that they rarely deviate from, and that’s one of the reasons they have gained such a huge gathering of fans, just both with different tastes. 

Rolex

For starters, Rolex feels largely driven by timelessness and simplicity. Their design philosophy is built around creating watches that feel as relevant today as they did decades ago and will continue to feel the same for decades to come. Rather than chasing trends, Rolex refines its designs incrementally, ensuring each evolution honors its legacy while embracing modernity. 

Think of the Submariner’s clean lines, the Datejust’s classic proportions, or the GMT-Master’s instantly recognizable bezel. These designs are deliberate in their restraint, focusing on practicality and versatility. Details like the Cyclops lens for date magnification and the robust Oyster case are examples of Rolex’s ability to combine functional innovation with understated elegance.

Audemars Piguet

Meanwhile, Audemars Piguet is significantly more daring and clearly prefers to push the boundaries of design, even if that means isolating a watch collector or two. 

From the moment the Royal Oak hit the scene in 1972 with its audacious octagonal bezel and exposed screws, AP cemented its reputation as a brand that thrives on disruption. Its designs are bold, often unconventional, and unapologetically attention-grabbing. 

It’s really this that sets Audemars Piguet apart. They have an uncanny ability to marry artistry with technical mastery, which is showcased through their many skeletonized dials, intricate complications, and bold, geometric cases. 

Collections like the Royal Oak Concept show just how far the brand is willing to go in exploring futuristic design, while the Code 11.59 proves they can still interpret elegance, but again in a way that’s unique and very much Audemars Piguet.

Build Quality & Materials 

Rolex

When it comes to build quality, Rolex is very hard to criticize. The brand’s use of 904L stainless steel, a material Rolex calls “Oystersteel”, is really quite remarkable and one of the best case materials in the watchmaking game. It’s a high-grade alloy that’s corrosion-resistant, tough as nails, and has a subtle, gorgeous luster that you won’t find in your average stainless steel. 

Add to that the meticulous polishing and brushing, and you’ve got a watch that can go from the depths of the ocean to a black-tie gala with ease. 

Rolex also loves mixing it up with proprietary materials like Rolesor, a striking blend of Oystersteel and 18-karat gold. Their sapphire crystals are also nearly scratch-proof, and even details like the crowns and bezels are engineered to perfection. 

Finishing extends to every component, from the seamless integration of the Oyster bracelet to the unblemished sheen of their dials, whether it’s a vibrant sunburst or a diamond-studded masterpiece. 

Audemars Piguet

While Rolex seems to focus predominantly on the functionality of their watches when it comes to the materials and finishes they use, Audemars Piguet veers more towards a philosophy where each timepiece is ultimately a work of art. 

For example, the Royal Oak’s “Tapisserie” dials are legendary, featuring intricate hand-crafted patterns that create stunning plays of light. This level of texture and detail is something Rolex rarely dabbles in and is synonymous with AP. 

You also can’t fault the Royal Oak bracelet. In fact, they are some of the finest metal bracelets in the luxury watch industry, in my opinion. The breathtaking blend of angular bevels with brushed and polished surfaces makes the design feel almost architectural. 

It’s the kind of craftsmanship you don’t just see often, and you feel it every time you fasten it to your wrist. Finally, while there are plenty of steel and gold watches in Audemars Piguet’s portfolio, the brand also tends to lean into exotic materials like ceramic, titanium, and platinum, which reinforces their philosophy that watches are wearable pieces of art.

Movements 

Rolex 

When it comes to movements, Rolex and Audemars Piguet differ greatly, too. For Rolex, there’s a clear focus on precision, durability, and reliability. Every Rolex timepiece houses an in-house caliber that’s built to last for decades. 

Rolex movements are often seen labeled as “Superlative Chronometers”, meaning they meet an extraordinary accuracy standard of -2 to +2 seconds per day. That’s one of the tightest tolerances in the watchmaking world. 

This level of precision is achieved through innovations like the Parachrom hairspring, which is resistant to magnetic fields and almost completely unaffected by extreme temperatures. 

Yet, while Rolex movements are marvels of engineering, they’re also pragmatic. They don’t chase the kind of intricate complications seen in haute horology. Instead, their calibers excel at simplicity. 

They offer reliable timekeeping with classic features like date displays, dual time zones, and chronographs. They’re also practical with basic finishing – at least in comparison to Audemars Piguet. The cases often have a closed case back, which again emphasizes that the movement is about performance rather than visual appeal.

Audemars Piguet 

Like their cases and dials, Audemars Piguet’s movements focus greatly on aesthetic beauty and cutting-edge technology. They still only use in-house calibres, but their focus shifts from pure precision to showcasing innovative design and visual artistry. 

Some of their best-known complications include the perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and flying tourbillon – some of the hardest and most complex complications to engineer. 

Their movements are also meticulously hand-finished. Techniques like perlage, Côtes de Genève, and polished bevelling adorn the components, making their movements miniature works of art that can be regularly viewed through exhibition case backs. 

However, this complexity does come with trade-offs. While Audemars Piguet calibers are breathtakingly intricate, this also means they can be more sensitive and require regular maintenance. Some of their chronograph movements use modular constructions rather than fully integrated designs, which can sometimes impact performance. 

Price Point & Collectability 

Rolex 

Rolex watches occupy a rather broad pricing spectrum, offering entry-level models at more accessible prices compared to Audemars Piguet. Prices for Rolex models can range from just over $5,000 for entry-level models like the Oyster Perpetual to well over $100,000 for more intricate pieces, like the Day-Date in precious metals. 

Rolex watches are also well-known to hold their value, especially if taken care of. In fact, the market’s appetite for Rolex is so strong that it’s widely regarded as one of the best investments in the luxury watch market, with some models even outperforming other luxury brands in terms of resale value. Vintage Rolex models especially have seen substantial price increases at auctions, often fetching more than their original retail price. 

Audemars Piguet 

Audemars Piguet watches tend to fall on the higher end of the luxury watch spectrum, with prices reflecting their intricate craftsmanship, complex complications, and limited production. Their most affordable models retail for around $10,000 and go up to $450,000. 

A key factor in AP’s premium pricing is the exclusivity of their designs, especially with iconic models like the Royal Oak. Many of their timepieces feature rare materials such as platinum or rose gold, and complex movements like minute repeaters or flying tourbillons, making them highly coveted among collectors. Limited edition models and their low production numbers further contribute to their rarity. 

While Audemars Piguet watches typically carry higher price tags than Rolex, they still hold strong value in the resale market, especially the Royal Oak models and vintage pieces. However, when compared to Rolex, AP watches tend to experience slower value appreciation. Despite this, owning an Audemars Piguet is more about owning a unique, artistic masterpiece rather than a simple investment. 

Conclusion 

In the end, choosing between Audemars Piguet and Rolex comes down to personal preference and what you value most in a luxury watch. Both brands are undeniably exceptional, each with its own distinctive qualities that set them apart. 

Rolex excels in versatility, precision, and status, offering a broad range of models that cater to different tastes and lifestyles. Their watches are iconic, reliable, and maintain excellent resale value, making them an ideal choice for someone looking for a classic, dependable timepiece that is also a solid investment.

On the other hand, Audemars Piguet is a brand that speaks to those who appreciate artistry, innovation, and exclusivity. With its bold designs, especially the iconic Royal Oak, AP caters to watch enthusiasts who want a timepiece that stands out and pushes the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. 

The complexity of their movements and the rarity of their models make them a choice for collectors who seek something unique and are willing to invest in a piece of horological artistry.

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