Author: Charlotte H

Whether you’ve visited the beautiful country of Japan or not, we’re sure there are certain aspects of the culture you are familiar with more than others. Whether it’s the pretty pink cherry blossoms, their colorful and action-packed anime, or the intricate art of origami, it’s clear that Japan’s cultural treasures have captivated hearts around the world. Another aspect of Japanese culture that is well known worldwide is the creation of the katana, a weapon that symbolizes not only strength but also the rich artistry of Japan. 

The Japanese katana is known for its exceptional craftsmanship, taking skilled artisans years to perfect the techniques involved in its creation. 

Each blade is carefully forged from high-carbon steel, with multiple layers folded together to create a resilient yet flexible weapon. The process involves heating, hammering, and tempering, ensuring that every katana possesses a unique combination of beauty and functionality. The curvature of the blade, the precision of the edge, and the intricate designs on the tsuba (guard) all reflect a commitment to artistry and perfection. 

Just as the katana embodies the spirit of Japanese craftsmanship, so does Grand Seiko’s beautiful collection of watches. And, as you’ve probably guessed, today’s model up for review, the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491, is inspired by this legendary weapon with a dial designed to echo the raw materials and distinctive patterns used in the creation of the katana.

Three Katana-Inspired U.S Exclusives 

Just last year, during the summer of 2023, Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko unveiled three new models exclusive to the US market. The trio were all inspired by the elements used in the creation of the katana: earth, fire, water, and air. The process begins with iron sand sourced from the Earth which is then heated in a furnace known as the tatara, using both fire and air. 

As the iron sand melts, it transforms into a type of Japanese steel called tamahagane. From this steel, two distinct forms emerge: kawagane, the high-carbon steel used for the blade’s sharp outer edge, and shingane, the resilient inner core that provides strength. 

The individual metal shards are meticulously stacked and then heated until they glow in vibrant shades of yellow, orange, and red. This glowing mass is forged, folded, and drenched in water, resulting in the inner core being welded securely within the hardened outer shell. The creation of a katana is a rigorous and precise art form, culminating in a sword that is both beautifully balanced and exceptionally functional.

As you’d expect, Grand Seiko has crafted the three katana-inspired Heritage Spring Drive models with the same attention to detail. Their cases are Zaratsu polished, while the dials are meticulously engraved to honor different parts of a katana’s creation. 

The first of the trio is reference SBGA493, which has a bold, deep red dial and yellow gold-colored accents inspired by the heated blade during the forging process. The unique, ultra-deep sunray pattern evokes the sparks that radiate from the hammer every time it strikes the blade. 

The other two models are reference SBGA489 and SBGA491. These offer a slightly different dial design with a super fine-grained finish. Model SBGA489 is colored in a deep gray and is said to be inspired by kawagane, the high-carbon steel used to create the katana. Meanwhile, the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491, the very watch I’m reviewing today, has a beautiful deep green dial inspired by shingane, the inner core of the legendary blade.

A 44GS Case

I’m not sure it would feel quite right for Grand Seiko to release a range of katana-inspired watches that weren’t Zaratsu polished and in the 44GS case architecture. 

Thankfully, the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch is both, with a sharp angled case executed according to their Grammar of Design philosophy inspired by the 44GS watch released in 1967. It’s a design philosophy that places emphasis on simplicity, precision, and beauty, with the case offering beautiful flat surfaces and crisp angles that give the SBGA491 watch a dressy, refined look. 

Every surface looks and feels perfectly produced, and that’s partly due to the high levels of detail that are placed on the finishing – just as the katana requires tremendous skill and detail to create. The majority of the stainless steel surface is polished using a technique Grand Seiko calls Zaratsu polishing. 

This intricate process is renowned for creating a mirror-like finish that enhances the beauty of the metal. Mastering Zaratsu polishing can take up to three years, as artisans must learn to hold the metal against a spinning tin plate at the perfect angle and pressure. It’s a method that not only highlights the intricate details of each piece but ensures a flawless surface that reflects light beautifully. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch also has some satinized surfaces placed along the case sides and lug flanks to create a wonderful contrast, once again adding to the sharp angles and beautiful profile. 

As for dimensions, this release is one that will suit almost any wrist size. It measures to 40mm wide and 12.5mm tall, allowing it to slide effortlessly under the cuff of a dress shirt. There’s also a very reasonable lug-to-lug of 46.2mm. 

You can expect all the modern adornments to complete the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch, including domed sapphire crystal on top, treated to its own layer of anti-reflective coating for exceptional visibility, and a screw down crown positioned at 3 o’clock for a 100-meter water resistance. 

The latter is neatly embossed with the GS logo in relief and knurled for easy manipulation. Turning the timepiece over reveals another layer of sapphire crystal glass for a wonderful view of the beautifully finished Spring Drive movement housed inside.

A Unique Grained Dial 

I’ve been incredibly lucky to witness and wear many Grand Seiko dials over my career, and after having unboxed the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch myself, I have to say this might be one of the most unique and beautiful Grand Seiko dials I have ever seen. 

Yes, I know this is a bold statement, but bear with me. It’s once again one of those dials that is not done justice in the press images. The prominent textured surface has so much more visual complexity up close, and the contrast between the deep olive green and the gold elements is stunning. 

According to Grand Seiko, the dial here is inspired by the resilience and strength of shingane. The unique, deeply-grained texture supposedly evokes the texture in the variations of tamahagane, the “jewel” steel from which traditional katana swords are fashioned. 

Now I have absolutely no experience crafting katana swords, so I am unable to confirm or deny whether the dial reflects what Grand Seiko suggests accurately. But I don’t really care. The dial is absolutely beautiful and delivers a contrast of colors and light play on the wrist that is rare to see anywhere else – especially at this price point. 

Like the case, much of the hardware placed on the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch’s dial is Zaratsu polished. The baton hour markers are beautifully faceted, with polished edges and a brushed center to create a striking contrast that catches the light at various angles. In the same way, the sharp sword-shaped hands are beveled with polished edges and a brushed, streamlined middle. 

I have a feeling one point of divisiveness on this dial will be the gold color used on the power reserve indicator. It’s clear this complication has caused some chaos in the Grand Seiko community for some time, with some adoring the feature while others praying Grand Seiko releases more Spring Drive models without it. 

So, to see the indicator demanding more attention than ever in a new gold hue will likely cause disagreements. That said, I really like it. I think it adds to the opulence of the dial. It’s also not just some plain gold surface either; Grand Seiko has taken their time to add intricate faceted detailing to make it all the more beautiful.

The golden power reserve indicator matches nicely with the gold, hand-applied GS logo at 12 o’clock, which sits above silvered printing for “Grand Seiko” just below it. Similarly, lettering at 6 o’clock is printed to denote the Spring Drive movement housed inside. 

The only other point of interest on the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch’s dial is the date window at 3 o’clock, bordered by its own silvered frame and presented with a black-on-white date disc.

A Spring Drive Movement

Powering the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is, as its name suggests, one of the Japanese watch brand’s Spring Drive movements. The Caliber 9R65 is an in-house hybrid movement that combines the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. 

I won’t go into the technology behind Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement in too much detail but know that it uses a self-winding mechanism, allowing the watch to harness the energy generated by the wearer’s movements while also incorporating a quartz regulator that ensures stable and precise timekeeping.

It basically means you get the beauty of a mechanical movement but with the accuracy of a quartz one. To put it into perspective, even some of the most precise mechanical movements in the world are rated between -4 to +6 seconds per day. 

The Caliber 9R65, however, has an impressive precision of just +/-1 second per day, or +/- 15 seconds per month. The movement also boasts a seamless, continuous sweep of the second hand, enhancing the watch’s aesthetic appeal, and an extended 72-hour long power reserve, which, as mentioned, is displayed on the dial in gold.

Beyond their performance, Spring Drive movements are wonderfully finished, showcasing a range of exquisite finishes that make the open case back worth taking the watch off every once in a while. At first glance, it closely resembles a traditional mechanical movement, and this is no coincidence since many of the mechanical components remain intact. 

It has striking striped bridges and beautiful interior anglage, which enhance the overall elegance of the movement. The continuation of Zaratsu polishing also adds an extra layer of refinement, reflecting light in a way that showcases the meticulous craftsmanship involved.

A Full Metal Bracelet

Completing the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is the bracelet. There’s nothing much to say about this, honestly. It’s not that it’s a bad bracelet by any means, but compared to the attention to detail applied to the case, dial, and movement, the bracelet feels a little obsolete. It’s still a lovely watch strap, though, featuring a classic three-row link architecture with mostly brushed surfaces and a few polished elements to tie in with the case. 

It’s an odd size, offering a lug width of 19mm and tapering down slightly to 18mm as it reaches the clasp. It’s not going to be easy to find many replacement straps with a 19mm lug width, but there are drilled lugs, so once you do find one, swapping it over is easy. 

The links of the bracelet are screwed, and while there is no micro-adjustment, there are two half-links for decent levels of adjustment. As for the clasp, it’s a standard dual push button trigger with the Grand Seiko logo decorating the exterior in relief.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is a pleasure to wear for a number of reasons. The most obvious is that it’s a beautiful watch, and I feel almost honored to wear something that has been designed and crafted so meticulously. Honestly, every aspect of the dial and case feels expensive, and it looks like it should cost more than the price tag suggests. 

The dial, in particular, will no doubt attract attention and be a great conversation starter. The deep-grained finishing, faceted hardware, and golden elements catch the light effortlessly, creating a dynamic visual experience that shifts with every angle. 

It’s also an extremely comfortable watch to wear. The excellent dimensions, including the 40mm width, 12.5mm height, and 46.2mm lug width, means it will wear easily on wrists as low as six inches. For wrists larger than eight inches, you might find it a touch small unless you like the super compact vibe. 

It’s a watch that works as a sports watch (thanks to its water resistance), as a dress watch (thanks to its slim case), and as a daily beater. There’s really no occasion this watch wouldn’t suit.

Price & Availability

Honestly, I can’t quite get over the retail price of the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch. To find a watch engineered to this standard for less than $6,000 is not a common sight. The model retails brand new from authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces for $5,600, and if you’re lucky, you might be able to find preowned examples on the second-hand market for around $5,000. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is also a permanent addition to the Japanese watch manufacturer’s Heritage collection, which means it’s not limited to a specific number of pieces. That said, it is exclusive to the US market, so it’s not as easily accessible as one might hope.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 is undoubtedly one of the finest Spring Drive watches I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing. I’m still amazed by its price tag of $5,600, which, when you consider the in-house Spring Drive movement, the beautifully executed case, and the meticulously detailed dial, feels like an absolute steal. 

Yes, there are more affordable Spring Drive models on the market, but for this level of craftsmanship and attention to detail, I genuinely believe this to be one of the best entry-level options available. It seamlessly blends cutting-edge technology with the elegance and tradition that Grand Seiko is known for, making it a standout piece for any collector.

A close friend of mine is a bigger fan of Grand Seiko than anyone I know. His collection is predominantly filled with models from the brand’s Heritage, Elegance, and Sports families, and he’s often the person I go to when I have any questions or concerns about a particular model. 

It wasn’t all that long ago when we were chatting in-depth about GMTs, and I asked him which dual time-telling model from Grand Seiko would be his go-to recommendation. He mentioned several models, including the Spring Drive-powered SBGE253 and the beautifully dressy and impressively affordable SBGM221.

But the watch he spoke most passionately about was the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch. He described it as one of the best GMT sports watches on the market, being wearable, attractive, and well-priced for the list of specs that are included. 

So, of course, as any watch-obsessed writer would, I went out to find the watch for myself and tried it for a full week to see if it was really as good as he suggested. So here I am, reviewing the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245…

When Was the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 Released?

I’m not sure how it happened, but the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch was one of those releases that flew under the radar for me. I don’t know what other watches were being released at the same time, but it must have been something good for me to not have noticed a new GMT model from Grand Seiko. 

The design was first launched in 2021, towards the end of the year, and joined the Japanese watch brand’s collection alongside an equally attractive olive green-dialed variant.

Grand Seiko has never had a shortage of GMT models in their arsenal, but some of the most compact references were those with quartz movements. Now, don’t get me wrong, I love quartz watches – especially those by Grand Seiko – but if budget allows, I will always choose a mechanical timepiece. I’m a sucker for the craftsmanship and complexity that goes into a mechanical movement. 

But, the majority of Grand Seiko’s mechanical GMTs were a little large in size, typically measuring around 44mm in diameter. But with the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch and its green-faced counterpart, you’re getting both a mechanical movement and a compact set of case dimensions.

A Sporty but Compact Case

Sports watches, GMT watches, and sport GMT watches are typically large with statement dimensions to make an impact. This is fine if you have the wrist real estate to pull it off, but alas, with my five-and-a-half inch wrist, I’ve always found shopping for a solid sports watch incredibly difficult. So, when I saw the dimensions of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch, I was over the moon. Finally, a sports GMT model that I could wear! 

Its dimensions include a 40.5mm width and a lug-to-lug of 48.6mm. On my wrist, it sits really nicely. It gives off that oversized sports watch aesthetic – something I absolutely love – with the short, downward-turned lugs helping to keep the watch nice and close to the skin. It’s a relatively thick watch, at 14.4mm tall, but it’s what you’d expect from a watch of this genre. 

At the end of the day, it’s a sports watch, not a dress watch, and we’ve got to take into account the prominent bezel, which gives the design so much of its personality, and the movement inside, which includes an extra layer of hardware for the GMT hand. That said, I can still imagine this watch sliding under the cuff of a dress shirt, as long as it’s one that’s not too tight. 

Despite this being one of Grand Seiko’s entry-level mechanical sport GMT watches, the finishing of the stainless steel case is exceptional. It delivers the same high levels of attention to detail as some of their more expensive models. It has satin-brushed finishing on the lug hoods and bright polishing on the case flanks. A beautiful sharp bevel separates the lugs from the case sides to help add to the watch’s sporty, streamlined architecture. 

This bevel, along with the case flanks, are brilliantly polished using Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing technique. Also known as black polish, this is a high-end finishing that requires talented artisans who have trained for three years to meticulously hand polish the steel by holding it against a spinning tin plate. It’s a complex process, but one that delivers an exceptional mirror-like shine.

Giving the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch its tool-like personality is the bezel placed atop. Finished in matching stainless steel, the polished and satinized surface is handsomely etched with black-colored numerals for the 24-hour scale. If you still question this watch’s sportiness, know that it also comes with a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock and a closed case back offering a 200-meter water resistance. 

A Hand-Finished Dial

Every piece of shiny hardware seen on the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch’s dial is hand-finished, like the case. These lovely little pieces of dial furniture are once again polished by hand using diamond-tipped milling tools to create this lustrous shine. 

The hardware isn’t just singularly treated either but features brushing and polishing on the same component to create this wonderful visual effect of light play. For example, the hands at the center have beveled and polished edges and satinated centers, adding to their sharp and aggressive aesthetic. Similarly, the hour markers are faceted and boast their own combination of polishing and brushed finishing.

The hardware, all of which is also placed entirely by hand, sits on a gorgeous sunburst blue dial that plays with the lighting conditions depending on how you angle your wrist. One minute, the color is a rich navy blue; the next, it’s almost jet black. 

Even in the dark, the dial impresses with a generous amount of Lumibrite (Grand Seiko’s go-to luminous material) added to the hands and the four markers at each cardinal point. At night, these elements glow a rich green, providing you with effortless legibility no matter your surroundings.

The central GMT hand, finished in bright red for exceptional contrast, has its own arrow-shaped luminous tip. Its color pairs with the GMT text at 6 o’clock, also printed in red sitting beside white lettering to denote its automatic movement. 

Working with this complication is the sloped flange around the dial’s center, which is printed with a second24-hourr scale and has a dual-toned backdrop to showcase the day hours in silver and the night hours in navy blue. 

The only other features of the dial I’m yet to mention include the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock and the date window positioned at 4 o’clock. I appreciate the integration of the date window where the 4 o’clock hour marker should be, plus the nicely polished border. But would this dial look better without a date? Yes, I think so. Or at least let’s incorporate a blue date wheel to allow it to blend into the dial design a little more subtly.

An In-House Movement

As mentioned, the case back of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch is closed. It’s a shame, as I always love to see the workings of a mechanical movement, but we do have to keep in mind that its closed nature helps to assist in its healthy 200-meter water resistance. The case back is nicely decorated, showcasing a lovely beaded border and the Grand Seiko lion logo at the center in relief.

The exact movement hiding behind this steel component is the Caliber 9S66 automatic winding movement. It’s a movement made entirely in-house by Grand Seiko and regulated in their own facilities, promising an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. To receive this rating, the movement has been measured in six positions and placed under stress in artificially controlled environments for 12 days.

We’re promised a 72-hour power reserve, so you can easily take this watch off on Friday and put it back on Monday morning without worrying about lost time. It also pivots on 35 jewels, has stop seconds, and, of course, the added date and GMT complications for improved functionality.

Straps

There is beautiful satin-brushed finishing across the top and conforming end links for a comfortable fit. I’ve always liked the slight rolled bevel on these Grand Seiko bracelets. They have a lovely polished outer surface, giving the watch a contemporary look. 

The links are screw fixed and can be removed to achieve a more accurate fit. To help, there are several half links on either side, plus micro-adjustment holes on the stamped clasp. The twin push button release clasp is effortless to use and is nicely presented with the GS logo in relief. 

There’s a 20mm space between the drilled lugs, so finding and changing out alternative straps for the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch is made easy. If you’re like me and you have relatively small wrists, note that this will wear even more compactly on a strap rather than a bracelet.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 is a fantastic watch that wears surprisingly comfortably for its size. With a 40.5mm width, it’s one of the most compact GMT sports watches out there, which is a huge plus for folks like me with smaller wrists—I’m rocking a five-and-a-half-inch wrist, and even though it’s a big watch, I love that oversized look. 

If your wrists are around six inches or more, this watch will fit perfectly; any smaller, and you might find it feels a bit too large. Any bigger than eight inches, and you might find it too small.

The 14.4mm height does make it thicker than your average dress watch, as it houses that impressive GMT movement. But don’t worry—it’s not so thick that you can’t slip it under a dress shirt. 

While this is definitely a tool watch and not a dress watch, I can still see it dressed up for formal occasions, too. The angled lugs and conforming end links of the bracelet make it super comfortable to wear all day, whether you’re at the office or out on an adventure. Overall, this watch strikes a great balance between functionality and style.

Price & Availability

Retailing for $5,700, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch has become one of the Japanese watchmakers’ entry-level mechanical GMT sports watches. It’s incredibly well-priced for the high levels of case and dial finishing and technology going on inside. 

It’s a permanent piece in their collection, meaning it’s not limited to a specific set of pieces, but since it has been out on the market since 2021, it might not be a model that stays around for much longer.

If you choose to order the design, please ensure it’s through an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces so you can feel confident you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty.  Alternatively, you may be able to find it on the second-hand market for around $3,500 to $4,000.

Conclusion

Following my friend’s advice has never let me down, and after reviewing the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 at his suggestion, I can confirm he’s one to trust yet again. This watch is beautifully executed in every way. The case is sporty and streamlined, making it incredibly comfortable to wear, allowing even those of us with smaller-than-average wrists to enjoy the statement that comes with a sporty GMT watch.

What truly sets this watch apart, though, is the exceptional hand-finishing. In a world where many luxury watches skimp on this detail, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 stands out. 

Most watch collectors, myself included, own a dive watch but have never actually dived with it. It’s more of a style statement than a piece of actual dive gear, and there’s something reassuring knowing your timepiece can withstand high pressures of water – just in case you spontaneously decide to dive headfirst into a pool. 

Alternatively, you might actually be one of those rare collectors who does dive, or maybe you’re not even a collector at all—just a real, seasoned diver looking for something reliable. If so, then the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this past week might just be the perfect watch for you. It’s not just about looking good (although if you’re like me and you do just enjoy a timeless dive watch aesthetic, it nails that, too), but this has a list of specs that promises a watch that performs.

Grand Seiko’s Background in Dive Watches

Grand Seiko has been around for over half a century, founded in 1960, and yet it wasn’t until 2008 that the Japanese watchmaker debuted their first dive watch. It included reference SBGA029, a stainless steel model, and reference SBGA031, done in titanium. 

Both were powered by the company’s legendary 9R65 Spring Drive movement, perfectly combining the ruggedness of a serious dive watch with the unprecedented precision of their Spring Drive technology. This unique movement, combining mechanical precision with quartz accuracy, gave their dive watches an edge in both reliability and performance, letting them contend in a saturated and highly competitive market.

In more recent years, Grand Seiko has also impressed with its Hi-Beat Diver models, which specifically target wearers who appreciate a higher frequency mechanical movement, offering greater accuracy and a more responsive feel. The brand has long been a strong contender in the sports watch market, so it’s no surprise that their dive watch collection is packed with high-performing, top-tier models.

One of their standout recent releases of recent years is the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 200m Diver SBGH289, launched in 2021 alongside its black-dialed counterpart, the SBGH291. These models lean more toward recreational diving, offering a slightly less rugged and oversized design, perfect for both underwater performance and casual weekend wear. 

They’re versatile and stylish, and still maintain the Grand Seiko reputation for excellence in craftsmanship and functionality. After wearing the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 for the past week, here are my thoughts…

A Solid, Water Resistant Case

No matter how hard I try, I can’t help but have preconceptions about a watch before it even lands on my desk for review. With the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289, despite the relatively compact dimensions listed on the GS website (at least, for a dive watch), I was convinced it was going to feel big—maybe even too big for my wrist. But, as usual, my assumptions were quickly proven wrong. 

Once I had it on, the watch felt perfectly balanced, with the sleek case design and smart proportions making it surprisingly comfortable. It manages to strike that rare balance between being substantial enough to feel like a true dive watch without overwhelming the wrist. It’s a perfect reminder that you can’t always judge a watch by its specs alone. 

Dimensions are made up of a 43.8mm width and a lug-to-lug of 51mm. It also has a thickness of 14.7mm which again feels much lower on the wrist than the numbers suggest. It should, as long as your shirt cuff isn’t too tight, slip easily under most dress shirts. The short but broad lugs that sloped downwards help to keep the case compact on the wrist while the bezel and sapphire crystal glass add to its height. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is engineered from stainless steel and, in typical Grand Seiko style, features a nice combination of finishes. The case sides feature a black polish, also known as Zaratsu polishing in GS’s dictionary. 

It’s a process that is done completely by hand and requires several years of training to master. The metal is held against a spinning tinplate to create a breathtaking mirror polish. It looks incredibly good on a dress watch, and in this case, a sports watch.  There’s also a small bit of bevelling along the side of the case, adding to its sleek architecture and satin-brushed finishing applied on the lug hoods. 

Up top, the bezel has its own stainless steel ring with knurled detailing for easy grip, even with wet hands or while wearing thick diving gloves. Sadly, the bezel is not ceramic, which is something you’d expect at this price point. In fact, Grand Seiko doesn’t specify exactly what the material is, but to me, it appears to be ADLC, aka Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon. 

It’s still a super scratch-resistant and glossy material that won’t shatter like a ceramic will. Grand Seiko has also suggested it’s been treated with a special hard coating so that durability is increased further. What I really love about the bezel is how silky and smooth it feels to turn. It’s a pleasure to set with an accurate 120-click action. The insert is a glossy black and has a 60-minute diver’s scale engraved in white around the circumference. A luminous pip is also added at 12 o’clock. 

At 3 o’clock, there’s a screw down crown nicely recessed into the case and protected by prominent crown guards. The case back is also screwed down, allowing for a healthy water-resistant rating of 200 meters. It’s the perfect level of water pressure protection for most recreational diving, whether you’re snorkeling, swimming, or going for a shallow dive. 

Even if you’re not planning on deep-sea adventures, 200 meters of water resistance means you never have to worry about everyday splashes, rain, or even taking it in the shower. It’s more than enough for casual divers or anyone who simply enjoys the peace of mind that comes with a robust, well-engineered dive watch. 

A Deep Navy Dial 

Like the pip on the bezel at 12 o’clock, much of the hardware on the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch glows bright green in the dark. I’ve always loved the unusual combination of hands-on Grand Seiko’s dive watches, and the unique setup is made all the more obvious when the hands glow brilliantly at night. 

There’s a modern and broad arrow-tipped minute hand, a lollipop seconds hand, and a vintage-inspired cathedral hour hand. It might not be a combination of hardware suited to every taste, but I love it, and it really highlights Grand Seiko’s proficiency in bringing together traditional watchmaking techniques with modern ones. 

The dial has a gorgeous glossy blue finish that appears a deep royal blue in some lights and almost black in others. The rounded and baton-shaped hour markers are also generously decorated in Lumibrite for glow-in-the-dark capability and are hand-finished and brightly polished for an upscale look. 

It’s a relatively simple and standard dial layout, but the finishing of the hardware makes the dial look and feel more luxurious than any other standard dive watch. The date window at 3 o’clock, which replaces the hour marker here, also has its own polished border and a black-on-white date disc.

The only other notes of reference on the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch’s dial are the sloped navy seconds scale around the furthest edge and the applied Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock. 

There’s also some lettering printed for Grand Seiko below the applied logo and several lines of text to denote the watch’s water resistance and movement at 6 o’clock. You could argue the text here could be reduced by a line or two to make the dial feel less cluttered, but since this is a time-and-date watch, after all, it doesn’t feel excessive.

A Hi-Beat Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is the Caliber 9S86 Hi-Beat movement. It’s automatic winding with manual winding capacity and is best characterized – and named after – by its high frequency of 5Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour. It also has a 55-hour power reserve, a quick set date, and hacking seconds. It’s also one of Grand Seiko’s most finely regulated movements, claiming an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds a day. That’s an accuracy well within chronometer standards (-4 to +6 seconds a day).

Thanks to its higher frequency, the seconds hand glides with a noticeably smoother sweep compared to standard mechanical watches running at 28,800 vph. While it may not achieve the ultra-smooth flow of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movements, it still offers a wonderfully fluid motion and a subtle, satisfying tick that’s a pleasure to see and hear.

A Solid Metal Bracelet

The bracelet of the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is really nice and has a lot going for it. It has a lovely conforming end link which sits flush to the bracelet. There’s nothing worse than a metal bracelet that leaves a gap, even one small, between the bracelet and the case. 

That’s not a problem here, though. It has a modern look with a three-link architecture and wide spacing between the lugs. The bracelet does have a slight taper, decreasing ever so slightly the closer it gets to the folding buckle.

Like the case, the bracelet’s stainless steel surface has a combination of polished and satin-brushed finishing. The edges of the links have beautiful, rolled bevels with polishing, while the central links are tipped by edges that are also polished.

Annoyingly, the links are fixed with pins instead of screws, which is unusual for a Grand Seiko’s stainless steel model – we’ve seen this with some of their titanium models, but rarely those made from classic steel. It would have been better to have seen screws here, but changing out links is still easy and requires few tools.

That said, there likely won’t be many links to remove since there are plenty of micro-adjustment options on the buckle. There are four micro-adjust holes equipped on the buckle and a diver’s extension, so you can make super accurate amendments. 

The dive extension is particularly useful, as it can be done on the go while the watch is on the wrist. You just lift the two tabs on the buckle to adjust the sizing. It means you can adjust the length even while around marine environments without the worry you’ll drop it in the water! 

The buckle itself has a twin trigger release for added security and is nicely embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. If you’d rather wear – or dive – in a water-resistant strap like a rubber watch band, then the 22mm lug width and drilled lugs make shopping and changing out the strap a breeze.

On-Wrist Experience

Despite its seemingly large dimensions, I’m thoroughly impressed with how the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 wears. The short, angled lugs are thoughtfully designed to hug the wrist, giving it a surprisingly comfortable fit. In fact, I think it could work on wrists as small as six inches, as long as you don’t mind the oversized look. 

That said, I’d recommend it for wrists between six-and-a-half and eight inches for the best balance of size and proportion. The only drawback is the use of stainless steel, which adds a bit of heft and makes it feel slightly heavier than you might expect. However, the extra weight doesn’t make it too cumbersome; it still wears well and feels solid without being overbearing, making it a good choice for those who appreciate a more substantial dive watch.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is a permanent addition to the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio, meaning that it’s a non-limited edition and doesn’t appear to be leaving the collection anytime soon. It retails for $7,300 brand new when ordered from authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. 

It’s always worth purchasing your watches through authorized retailers like this, as you’ll have the reassurance that you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. You can also find the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 on the second-hand market, averaging between $4,000 and $5,000.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 is a fantastic dive watch that feels robust, reliable, and built to last. The case is surprisingly compact despite its listed dimensions, and it’s impressive how well Grand Seiko has managed to pull off a watch that’s both functional and attractive – especially at this price. The bezel and deep blue dial are also well executed and feel right at home alongside much more expensive dive watches. I will always love the unique combination of hand styles, too. In my opinion, you’ll not find a comparable Swiss-made dive watch with this level of hand-finishing and technology. I’m happy to recommend it to anyone who loves the look of a dive watch or genuinely wants something robust and reliable that can join you under the waves.

Many watch collectors, myself included, have a bucket list of holy grail watches we hope to own one day. For some, it’s popular designs like the Rolex Submariner or the Omega Speedmaster. For me, though, it’s the Grand Seiko Spring Drive. Why? Because this is one of those pieces of technology that is impossible to replicate. 

No other watch brand has designed a movement quite like this one – a movement that not just tells the time but tells it almost perfectly, and two – a movement that combines the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. 

But of course, with incredible technology often comes high price tags, and even though, when put into perspective, much of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive collection is very reasonably priced, it’s still out of reach for some. 

That said, there are a few designs in the collection that are the perfect entry-level pieces for those wanting to own a Spring Drive watch. One such model is the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439. It’s a watch that lacks very little in terms of design and technology and yet retails for less than $5,000. Shall we take a closer look? 

What is a Spring Drive Movement? 

Grand Seiko ultimately has three movement pillars to distinguish their watches. There are their 9F quartz models (some of the most accurate quartz watches in the world, I should add), their Hi-Beat models, and, of course, their Spring Drive watches. The latter is undoubtedly their best-known, for good reason. 

These are revolutionary watches that, in essence, use mechanical power as a reserve of energy with the help of a mainspring (a component used in all mechanical watches). The rotating wheel at the end of the gear train creates a small electrical charge that sends a signal to an integrated and quartz oscillator (the same used in quartz watches). 

It sounds complicated because it is. It’s a piece of proprietary technology Grand Seiko developed for several decades, first being initiated during the 1970s and later being launched in 1999, debuting at Baselworld that same year. 

The movement’s brilliance lies in a number of things, including its seconds hand, which is insanely smooth with a continuous motion – there’s none of that erratic ticking like a regular watch.

Spring Drive movements are also insanely accurate. To put it into perspective, even some of the most accurate mechanical watches on the market are rated between -4 to +6 seconds per day. The Grand Seiko Spring Drive, on the other hand, has an impressive tolerance of just +/- 1 second per day. 

Basically, you’re getting the accuracy of a quartz watch but with the artistry of mechanical watchmaking. It’s the best of both worlds in my opinion, and it’s for this reason so many watch collectors consider the Grand Seiko Spring Drive a prerequisite of a true luxury watch collection. 

OK, so back to the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch. This model was first released in 2021 alongside four other entry-level Spring Drive watches with silver, white, or champagne-colored dials. 

As mentioned in the introduction, trailblazing technology often comes with a price tag to warrant it. Typically, Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches retail from between $6,000 and $7,000, so to find one within the $4,000 bracket has become a huge win for those of us working with a smaller budget.

A Refined Steel Case

You might think that since the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of the most affordable Spring Drive models in their portfolio, it will lack some of the luster and elegance of other designs in the collection. 

I thought that, too, honestly, but I was wrong. In fact, the SBGA439 wears just as beautifully as any other Spring Drive I’ve had the pleasure of trialing. It has a beautiful classic shape and wonderful dimensions that are going to suit pretty much any wrist size. 

It measures just 40mm wide, 12.3mm thick, and with a lug-to-lug width of 46.6mm. As someone with a five-and-a-half inch wrist, I typically max out watches at 40mm, but I have to admit, this model wears smaller than its dimensions suggest. And that’s not a bad thing. 

In fact, it’s incredibly compact, and I think that’s really down to the length of the case. It sits beautifully on my wrist, and yet I can just as easily imagine it on someone with a frame larger than myself. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 presents all the high levels of finishing we’ve come to expect from the Japanese watchmaker. The interior plains of the lugs and bracelet links are brushed, while the rest of the design, including the case sides, bezel, and aggressive line facets running down the case length, are brightly polished. 

These are created using the company’s famous Zaratsu polishing, a process done completely by hand, requiring several years of training and insane levels of attention to detail. The mirror finish is certainly worth the effort. 

For a nice touch of vintage appeal, the watch is topped by double-domed sapphire crystal glass with an anti-reflective coating for excellent visibility. There’s also a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, with slight knurled detailing, and the GS logo placed at the center in relief. The crown is ever so slightly recessed into the case for added protection without the need to add any bulky crown guards. 

Similarly, the case back is solid and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo and their legendary lion emblem. Both the case back and crown ensure a water resistance of 100 meters. The closed case back might be a letdown for some because it’s always nice to see the technology of the Spring Drive movement through a glass back, but minor sacrifices like this help keep the cost down. 

A Midnight Blue Dial 

If you’re even remotely familiar with Grand Seiko, then it’s very likely you’re aware that many of their dials are often patterned or intricately engraved. That’s not the case with the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA43 watch, however. Instead, the dial is kept simple and classic, yet somehow, it is still no less beautiful. 

It features this rich deep blue dial Grand Seiko called “Midnight Blue”. It has a subtle sunburst effect that radiates from the center of the display and creates this cool color-changing feature depending on the lighting conditions.

The dial appears royal blue in the bright light, and then, in darker areas, it seems almost pitch black. It’s a beautiful effect despite there being no obvious visual complexity. 

Of course, with this being a Grand Seiko dial, after all, the hardware placed at the center is not neglected by the brand’s hand-made craftsmanship. Every single hand and marker has been hand-finished by trained artisans to contribute their own element of light play.

Resting between the lined minute track in white, the large, hand-applied, and hand-polished hour markers glisten with every movement of the wrist. In a similar fashion, the hands are faceted and sharply finished, with the seconds hand freely rotating with not a single jump or splutter in sight – all thanks to the Spring Drive movement. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA43 watch does offer two complications. The first is the box-shaped date window at 3 o’clock, replacing its respective hour marker with a polished silver border and a nice color-matching date wheel. 

The other is the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, printed in white with its own silver hand to showcase its remaining power. From there, the only other dial details are the Grand Seiko logos beneath the double 12 o’clock index and white ink lettering at 6 o’clock to denote the movement inside.

A Spring Drive Movement

Powering the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA43 watch is the Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement. This is easily one of the better-known and most popular Spring Drive movements on the market, as it keeps things “simple” with just time, date, and power reserve. It’s still a world-class movement, and this is one of the reasons why this model is such a compelling point of value in the broader Grand Seiko lineup.

It delivers that silently and unbelievably smooth gliding seconds hand at the center and an accuracy of one second per day, or 15 seconds per month. It also boasts a weekend-proof 72-hour power reserve, so you can confidently take the watch off on a Friday and return it to your wrist on Monday, knowing it’ll still be keeping perfect time. Plus, the power reserve is on show on the dial, so it’s easy to keep track of when the watch might need a few hours of wear.

A Simple Steel Strap

Securing the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch to the wrist is a bracelet we don’t often see from the Japanese watchmaker. It’s a standard, simply executed oyster-style bracelet with three links and a 20mm lug width. 

It has the same combination of brushed and polished surfaces as many of GS’s bracelets, but it doesn’t have the signature polished middle links. It’s still a beautiful, solid-looking, and feeling bracelet but does have a little less pizzazz than those with the added polishing. 

The bracelet tapers down to a push-button folding clasp decorated with the GS logo in relief. The lugs are drilled, so strap changes are easy, and with its 20mm lug width, you’ll have no trouble finding replacement straps elsewhere. 

Since it’s a standard Grand Seiko clasp, don’t expect to find any micro adjustment here. It does arrive with screws and half links, though, so a good level of close adjustment is still possible.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of those watches I’d recommend to almost anybody. The Spring Drive technology inside speaks for itself, and its combination of finishing, dial color, and dimensions make it one of the most versatile daily beaters from Grand Seiko. 

It has excellent wearability thanks to its 40mm width and relatively thin 12.3mm height. It sits even smaller than its width suggests, too, keeping comfy and compact thanks to the 46.6mm lug to lug. 

I’d confidently say that anyone with wrists as small as five-and-a-half inches can effortlessly pull off this watch, and it looks just as fantastic on wrists up to eight inches. Even if you have a larger frame but love the elegance of a smaller watch, this piece can still shine. Its slender profile makes it ideal for formal occasions, easily slipping under shirt cuffs. 

The rich blue dial color is also perfect for these occasions, adding a touch of sophistication and depth that enhances its overall elegance. It’s one of those watches that transitions between an everyday timepiece and a dress watch, perfect for those who want to invest in a good quality all-rounder. 

Price & Availability 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of the most affordable Spring Drive offerings from the Japanese luxury watch brand, retailing for just $4,800. 

This will never not be an impressive price, especially when you take into account the high levels of detail, the hand-finishing, and, of course, the groundbreaking Spring Drive movement. Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces to ensure you receive a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. 

The model can also be found on the second hand market for around $3,500 and $4,000 if you’re interested. It’s a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s Heritage Spring Drive collection, so we don’t expect it to be disappearing anytime soon.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch is one of those watches I truly believe not enough people know about. When you type Spring Drive into a search engine, you’ll instantly become inundated with examples of some of the Japanese brand’s more expensive models and conclude that these are watches you can’t afford. But that’s just not the case. 

Grand Seiko does boast an impressive line-up of entry-level Spring Drive models and the SBGA439 is one of the best. If you want a highly accurate timepiece with a flawless sweeping seconds hand, hand-finishing detailing, compact dimensions and a mesmerizing deep blue dial, you’ll struggle to find anything better than the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439.

I don’t know about you, but I have a few prerequisites for a good GMT watch. At the end of the day, this is a timepiece I’m likely going to take traveling abroad or across the country, so it needs to be able to withstand the many different types of adventures I get up to during that time. I’m more of a sightseer than a beachbody, so I want something durable and robust that can withstand the hikes, city tours, and anything else I might get up to while traveling.

But for those days when I do want to chill by the pool or at the beach, it needs to be waterproof enough to resist those dips in the water. And finally, whether it’s for when I’m traveling for work or going out for a nice dinner at dusk, I want something that looks good. Not necessarily something overly dressy, but just something that looks the part, something that demands a little bit of attention without feeling overly heavy or over-the-top on my wrist. 

If I had the choice, it would be a watch like the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253. Or at least that’s my opinion after wearing it this past week…

One of Three

Making its debut in 2020, you’re probably wondering why it’s taken me this long to test out the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 properly. Truth be told, I’ve technically test-driven this watch before, but it was a slightly different reference in the same collection – just with a different dial and bezel combo. And although I loved it, I wasn’t in a rush to try on any of the other models in the line-up.

But a lot has changed in the last four years. Not only have I gained a little more financial freedom to enjoy brands like Grand Seiko, but my desire for a GMT watch has also grown. And with so many GMT models out there, it can feel a little daunting to know where to start. 

So, I decided to give the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 a shot. As mentioned, it was released in 2020 as part of the Japanese watchmaker’s Sport Collection. It joined two other references, including a green SBGE257 model and a contrasting blue SBGE255 model (the latter being the reference I tested originally).

At first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking these watches didn’t offer anything overly new for the brand. At this point in time, Grand Seiko already had several Sports GMT models in their collection, some with Spring Drive movements and others with their famous Hi-Beat caliber. 

But what these new models did do, rather subtly I should add, is apply a more scaled-down design. I’m talking about more compact cases, a new ceramic bezel, and more refined dial layouts. And ever since, they have basically become one of Japan’s most popular GMT watches with a design to rival those like the Rolex GMT-Master and the Tudor GMT.

A Compact, Sporty Case

Those of us with smaller than average wrists and a love of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology are often faced with a problem involving case sizes. More accurately, their cases are too big. However, with the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch, we are treated to one of the brand’s most compact sports GMT watches. 

Now if you have a wrist size of five inches, don’t get too excited. This is still a well-sized watch – it’s a GMT Spring Drive, after all – but it has a new set of dimensions that make it a whole lot more wearable compared to previous references in the same collection.

To put it into perspective, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT models with Spring Drive or Hi-Beat movements on offer before the SBGE253 was released were only available with hefty 44mm wide cases. That’s a big ol’ chunk of wrist real estate taken up, especially if you’re like me and you don’t have that much to begin with. 

So, with the release of watches like the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253, lovers of more compact-sized cases are getting to enjoy GS’s aggressive Sport Collection aesthetics with Spring Drive technology – finally!

As for exact dimensions, the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 measures just 40.5mm wide and with a 48.7mm lug to lug. If you count the end links of the bracelet – which annoyingly don’t articulate (but more on that later), the lug to lug is closer to 50mm. 

It’s still a relatively large watch if you have a small wrist, but it’s 40.5mm diameter makes it a whole lot more wearable than before. The beautiful curvature of the case and downward nature of the lugs help with this too.

The thickness of the watch is relatively high at 14.7mm but that’s kind of expected for a Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT. The technology going on inside here, which I’ll go into more detail about shortly, needs the space to work its magic. 

We’ve also, of course, got the additional GMT hand which alone adds a few millimeters of thickness as it stacks on top of the standard hours, minutes, and seconds. The height also includes the double-domed sapphire crystal glass on top, treated with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, for added legibility and a nice vintage touch.

Unsurprisingly, the finishing of the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is superb. The entire stainless steel surface is meticulously finished in either Zaratsu polishing or a brushed finish to create a stunning visual complexity. 

The tops of the lugs and the majority of the bracelet have a wonderful horizontal brushed finish while the case sides are treated to the brand’s in-house polishing technique, a highly intricate and demanding process that uses a specialized machine that involves holding the metal against a rotating plate. It’s an extremely precise skill that is done entirely by hand and one that results in an opulent mirror-like finish.

Sitting atop the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a ceramic bezel – a new feature for the Sport GMT model at the time of its release. The glossy black ceramic insert is expectedly decorated with white engraved 24-hour markers to be used in conjunction with the GMT complication. 

The bezel has a slight slope to its architecture which again helps to detract from the thickness of the case. We’re also presented with a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock, offering a 200m water resistance and easy ambidextrous use, and a screw-down case back decorated with the Japanese watch brand’s famous lion emblem in relief.

A Glossy Black Dial

I’m so used to reviewing Grand Seiko watches in the Elegance or Heritage collections that are intricately decorated with complex patterns and colors that a dial like the one owned by the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch seems almost impossible to comment on. Truth be told, by Grand Seiko standards, it’s a simple dial. However, it couldn’t – or shouldn’t – be any other way.  

The glossy black display pairs beautifully with the matching black ceramic bezel and becomes the perfect canvas for the mass of functions placed at the center. Sometimes, simplicity is key, especially when you have a lot of information to offer. If this dial was patterned with some of the more fanciful decorations Grand Seiko are known for, it would likely become difficult, if not entirely impossible, to read at a glance.

Although simple in its execution, that’s not to say that the dial of the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch doesn’t involve the brand’s high levels of attention to detail. For starters, the hands and hour markers are all hand-finished to perfection, diamond-polished, and faceted to create a subtle glimmer in light for enhanced legibility. The cardinal hour markers and the hours and minute hands offer further readability with the use of glow in the dark Lumibrite on their tips.

Meanwhile, the GMT hand is finished in a bright red and contrasts against the black backdrop very well. This arrow-tipped hand also features its own Lumibrite insert for added legibility. On the outskirts, the dial offers an inner bezel with another set of 24-hour numerals, but these only display odd numbers. 

It’s another ingenious way of ensuring effortless readability at a glance. There’s also a power reserve indicator between 8 and 9 o’clock and a date window at 4 o’clock. The date window cleverly replaces the hour index and features no silvered border – a design decision that helps to integrate the date complication seamlessly without it becoming overbearing or obtrusive.

A Spring Drive Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is, as its name suggests, one of GS’s infamous Spring Drive movements. The exact caliber in question is the Caliber 9R66 which was first introduced back in 2006. 

If you’re not familiar with Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology, then in short, it’s basically a mechanical movement with some quartz technology included for better levels of accuracy. It has an escapement Seiko calls a “tri-synchro” quartz regulator to ensure its precision but still utilizes the mainspring of a traditional mechanical movement. It’s basically the best of both worlds. 

One of the biggest draws of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive movement is its smooth sweeping seconds hand. I can say this without doubt: the Spring Drive has the smoothest seconds hand I’ve ever seen. It will always fascinate me and it’s something I could watch forever. For its list of specs, the Caliber 9R66 has a 72-hour power reserve, which is neatly displayed on the dial front, and an accuracy of +/-15 seconds a month.

The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is also a “true” GMT. What this means is that the hour hand for local time can be independently adjusted, unlike an “office” GMT, where the GMT hand is the only hand independently adjustable. 

In this case, the first position of the crown lets you set the hour hand while the second position adjusts both local time and GMT. This feature is especially useful for travelers who need to keep track of multiple time zones simultaneously and want the flexibility to set their local time without disrupting the watch’s ongoing timekeeping.

A Full Metal Bracelet

Completing the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a full stainless steel, three-row link bracelet. It works perfectly with the sporty, almost aggressive personality of the design and has great proportions compared to the case. I do wish it had a bit of a taper, even as little as 2mm, to reduce the sense of bulk, but it still wears incredibly well and feels comfortable and durable.

As I mentioned earlier, the bracelet has mostly brushed surfaces but there are a few Zaratsu polished elements added to the edges of the middle links to echo the finishing of the case sides. It’s wonderfully finished, as you’d expect, and a huge bonus for many is that it’s one of the few Grand Seiko bracelets to come with micro adjustment. 

It has four micro-adjust slots in total, so you’ll easily get the perfect fit. There are also screws to remove and add in links, and several half links included. If you’re less keen on the metal bracelet and would prefer something more casual like a black leather band, thankfully, the 20mm lug width and drilled lugs will make finding alternative watch straps super easy.

On-Wrist Experience

It’s no surprise that with its compact dimensions, curved lugs, easy-to-read dial and exceptional finishing the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a joy to wear. In fact, it’s one of the most comfortable GMT sports watches I’ve had the pleasure of trialing. 

I’d recommend this model to anyone with wrists between six and seven-and-a-half inches, but as always, don’t let that deter you if you have wrists smaller or larger. I have five-and-a-half inch wrists, and with a love for oversized statement watches, this still looks incredible on me. 

In the same way, if you have large wrists and you want something super compact, comfortable, and easy to throw on, you’ll equally enjoy the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch retails brand-new for $6,200. Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces, so you know you’re receiving a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. Alternatively, you might be able to find the model on second-hand markets for around $4,000 to $4,500 if you’re working with a budget. 

But keep in mind that reference SBGE253 is a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s Sport Collection, so you may prefer to save up for another few months so you can afford it brand new. It’s a non-limited edition and as far as we’re aware, it’s not going anywhere anytime soon.

Conclusion

So, to go back to my original comments in the introduction, let’s just have a quick run-down as to why I think the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 is a hard-to-beat GMT watch. 

Is it durable for those traveling adventures? Yes. Is it capable of withstanding those dips in the pool and ocean? Yes, and more with a 200-meter water resistance. And does it look good? Absolutely. It’s a beautiful watch in more ways than one, offering compact sizing for a comfortable feel, a hand-finished dial and case, and more importantly, an impressively precise Spring Drive movement that will never let you know. What more could you want in a GMT watch?