Author: Charlotte H

You wouldn’t walk around in shoes two sizes too big nor a hat so small it gives you a headache, so why would you wear a watch that isn’t properly sized to your wrist? If you’re here, you’re likely thinking about getting a new watch, or maybe you’ve just picked one up, and now you’re wondering if it’s the right size for your frame. 

The right-sized watch can make all the difference. Sure, comfort is essential because, at the end of the day, you’re likely going to be wearing this timepiece for days at a time – so it needs to feel good. But it’s also about balance and aesthetics. 

A watch that looks obviously too big for you will look out of place and most likely be uncomfortable. Equally, a watch too small will feel awkward and might get lost on your wrist, making it look less like a statement piece and more like an afterthought. 

If you’re spending your hard-earned money on a luxury timepiece, it deserves to look right, giving you that sharp and stylish vibe you’re after. So, how do you find the perfect-sized watch for your wrist? And what’s the best way to measure your wrist for a watch? Join us as we walk you through everything you need to know to become a wrist-sizing pro.

Why is a Proper Watch Size Important?

At the end of the day, I truly believe you should wear whatever watch you want. If someone says a particular timepiece looks too big on you, but you love the look of it – go for it. It’s the same if you’re someone with a big frame but adore the vibe of a small, vintage-inspired timepiece. 

If you like it, then the rest doesn’t matter. That said, your watch does deserve to be comfortable, and we’d hate for you to shop online and spend money on a watch that ultimately doesn’t look right in person. 

For starters, the size of your watch will largely dictate how comfortable it sits on your skin. If the watch is too big, it might feel bulky, slide around, and even get in the way. It also won’t look great, making your wrist look like it’s drowning in a sea of metal and leather. On the other hand, if it’s too small, it might pinch, look out of place, and generally feel awkward. 

My biggest piece of advice when trying a watch on for size is to think like this: your watch should feel like an extension of your arm and not something that is constantly making you aware of its presence. 

Don’t get me wrong, it’s fine to have a watch that stands out in other ways, whether that’s with a unique case design or a bright-colored dial, but when it comes to size, it’s best to wear something that fits properly so you can enjoy it as you go about your day.

Plus, wearing the right watch size means your timepiece will last longer because it won’t be constantly slipping, knocking, or getting caught on things. If you’re spending good money on a luxury timepiece, it deserves to be well taken care of, and one of the best ways to do that is to ensure it sits snugly and safely on your wrist.

How to Determine Your Wrist Size 

Before you start shopping for a watch or making adjustments to a timepiece you already own, you need to know your wrist size. It’s super easy to figure out, and there are plenty of options in case you’re limited with the tools you have at hand. Here are the three most common methods for figuring out your wrist size.

Using a Piece of String

Using a piece of string to figure out your wrist size is probably one of the easiest methods. You don’t need any fancy tools, just a piece of string or a thin piece of paper and a ruler.  

Step 1: Start by grabbing your string or paper strip and wrapping it around your wrist where you’d normally wear your watch. Make sure the string is snug but not too tight. You want to simulate how the watch will sit.

Step 2: Use a pencil to mark where the string or paper overlaps to get your wrist circumference.

Step 3: Lay the string or paper flat on a table and measure the length with a rule.

This method is great for getting a quick measurement and is super easy to do. However, just be careful, as it’s not always the most accurate since strings can stretch or twist. Still, if you’re in a pinch, it can work just fine!

Using a Measuring Tape

For a more accurate reading, use a soft measuring tape. No, not the metal kind you use in construction, but the soft, ribbon-like version that is used by tailors. This way, it’ll mold effortlessly around your wrist and give you a quick and easy reading of your wrist size.

Step 1: Grab a flexible measuring tape and wrap it around your wrist at the point where you would wear your watch.

Step 2: Note the measurement where the tape meets the zero point.

This option is great for getting your wrist size down to the millimeter. It’s precise, and there’s no need to worry about guesstimating or accidentally stretching anything.

Using an Online Watch Size Guide

Thanks to the magic of the internet, there are also plenty of watch size guides and tools available online. These guides often let you print out a ruler or a wrist measuring guide that you can wrap around your wrist for an accurate measurement.

Some websites even offer calculators where you can enter your wrist size, and they’ll recommend the perfect watch diameter for your wrist. But remember, tools like this are just guidelines, and they shouldn’t stop you from wearing oversized or undersized watches if that’s the look you like.

Step 1: Find an online watch size guide and print it out. Just make sure it’s printed to scale!

Step 2: Cut out the wrist-sizing strip and wrap it around your wrist, following the instructions.

Step 3: Record the measurement and compare it to their watch size recommendations.

The advantage of using an online guide is that they often provide not just wrist circumference but also suggest the ideal watch case diameter for your wrist size. This way, you get both the fit and the look that works for you.

How to Size Your Watch Bands

Just as the diameter and thickness of your watch’s case are important, the sizing of your watch band is essential to make sure your timepiece sits comfortably and looks the part. Watch straps come in different styles and materials and require a different approach to sizing depending on which one you choose. Here’s how to get the right fit for a few of the most popular watch band styles:

Leather and Fabric Straps

Leather and fabric straps usually come with a series of holes punched in the strap. To size these, simply adjust the buckle to a hole that feels snug but not tight. 

You should be able to fit a finger between your wrist and the band, but the watch shouldn’t be sliding around. If you find that none of the pre-punched holes give you the perfect fit, don’t worry. Many watch stores and jewelers can punch additional holes to customize the fit for you.

Metal Bracelets

Sizing metal bracelets is generally a little trickier than simply adjusting the buckle into the next hole on a leather or fabric strap. They often need to be resized by adding or removing links. 

If you’re not comfortable doing this yourself, you can always drop your watch off with a local jeweler who will be able to do it for you. Alternatively, you can try it yourself. It’s a good skill to learn, especially if you’re into your watches!

To resize your metal bracelet, try on your watch as it comes to see how it fits with all the links intact. If it’s too loose, you’ll need to remove some of the links. If it’s too tight, you’ll need to add in some extras. Every metal bracelet is different, so before you begin resizing, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions.

Typically, the bracelet’s links will be held together using small pins. These can be removed using a clever tool called a pin pusher. We recommend removing links evenly on both sides of the clasp to keep the watch balanced. The same goes for adding extra links. 

The goal is to have the watch snug enough that it doesn’t spin on your wrist but not so tight that it pinches or leaves marks when you take it off again. Again, a good rule of thumb is to be able to slip one finger comfortably between the band and your wrist.

Rubber or Silicone Straps

Rubber and silicone straps are popular watch bands for sports watches, and many of them come with the same hole-and-buckle system as leather straps. 

Some even allow you to trim the excess strap for a customized fit. Like leather straps, you want a snug but comfortable fit. And again, you should be able to slip a finger under the strap without it feeling too loose or too tight.

What Does a “Good Fit” Feel Like?

At the end of the day, finding the right fit is all about personal preference and personal comfort. But as with everything, there are a few key things to keep in mind to ensure your watch fits right. 

First, you want the watch to feel snug but never too tight. It should sit securely on your wrist without leaving deep marks or causing discomfort after wearing it for a while. A well-fitted watch should almost feel like it’s not even there. It should be secure but unobtrusive. If you take it off and find red indentations, that’s a sign the band is too tight and needs to be adjusted.

Another important factor to consider is to make sure there’s no slipping. The worst thing that can happen is your watch slides off entirely so that it becomes lost or damaged. Even having it slide upside down could lead the watch to hit something hard and become scratched or marked. 

A properly fitted watch should stay in place as you go about your day rather than spinning around your wrist or sliding up and down your arm. This is particularly true for heavier watches, where too much movement can be distracting and uncomfortable. You want the watch to feel stable, resting comfortably on the wrist but without any restrictive tightness.

Lastly, when it comes to watches with metal bracelets, balance is key. The weight of the watch should be evenly distributed across your wrist. If too many links are removed from one side of the bracelet, the watch can feel off-kilter, which not only looks awkward but can also affect comfort. Achieving that perfect balance will make the watch feel lighter and more natural on your wrist.

Getting the fit just right isn’t only about comfort, but it also prolongs the life of your watch. A band that’s too tight will wear down faster, and a loose watch is more prone to getting knocked or scratched. Sizing your watch correctly ensures you get the best possible wearing experience while keeping your timepiece in great shape for the long haul.

Conclusion

Your wrist size is one of those things you don’t think of first when shopping for watches. And rightly so! It’s much more fun to focus on things like the case material, dial color, and even the mesmerizing movement of working hard inside. But trust me, watch size also makes a difference, and it’s a detail you’ll have to consider at some point.

Wearing a watch that fits well is the difference between feeling polished and professional and constantly fiddling with your timepiece. 

We recommend starting your watch-collecting journey by measuring your wrist, whether that’s by using a piece of string, a measuring tape, or an online guide, so you can get a good idea of the kind of watch that will best suit your frame. Once you’ve got all that information and you know how to adjust the watch strap when it arrives with you, you have everything you need to enjoy your watch to its full potential.

I’m quite happy to admit I’m a Seiko fan girl. The majority of my collection is made up of designs from this Japanese watchmaker, including several 5 Sports, Presage, Prospex, and Grand Seiko models. But most of the watches I own aren’t actually marketed towards my wrist. 

By this, I mean these watches are typically 38mm or above in diameter – but as a lover of an oversized timepiece, this isn’t something that puts me off at all. But, since Seiko and their luxury counterpart company, Grand Seiko, lack a lot of smaller women-orientated watches, it has sadly meant a lot of women – and men with smaller than average wrists – have missed out on an opportunity to wear one of these incredible timepieces. 

That’s not to say there are no 35mm and below Grand Seiko watches out there because there are. But the selections are a little limited. It’s why you’ll often find small-wristed folk opting for the wider selections of women’s watches offered by the likes of Rolex, Omega, and Longines. 

This is a shame because more women deserve to own and wear the beauty of a Grand Seiko watch. So, if there was one Grand Seiko ladies watch worth a second look, which one would it be? In my opinion, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 is up there on the list.

The Importance of a Grand Seiko Ladies Snowflake

Okay, so let’s talk about the Grand Seiko Snowflake dial and why bringing the crisp white textured centerpiece into a lady’s watch was one of the best decisions Grand Seiko could have made. 

The Snowflake, originally launched in 2010, captured the hearts of watch lovers all around the world with its unique dial that beautifully resembles the look of freshly fallen snow. The texture is delicate yet strikingly beautiful, representing the serene beauty of winter in Japan. 

Because of its unique look, the Grand Seiko Snowflake watch has since become one of the Japanese watchmaker’s best-selling timepieces. But sadly, before the launch of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 I’m reviewing today, the dial was typically housed within cases of 38mm to 40mm wide. 

So, by introducing a women’s version of the Snowflake, Grand Seiko has not only satiated those of us with smaller wrists but also opened the door for more women to step into the extraordinary world of Grand Seiko and, in turn, fall in love with more Grand Seiko watches. 

It’s a genius move from Grand Seiko if you ask me. It’s not just about creating a smaller watch – which, of course, we all appreciate – but it’s also about inviting more women into the landscape of luxury horology, allowing more people to appreciate the craftsmanship and elegance that Grand Seiko represents.

Grand Seiko’s Smallest Case

So since one of the biggest selling points of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is its dimensions, let’s start there. This release is one of Grand Seiko’s smallest dress watches, sized at 28.9mm wide and with a thickness of just 8.7mm. It also has a compact lug-to-lug width of 35.4mm. It wears incredibly well on my five-and-a-half-inch wrist, feeling comfortable and unobstructive. 

Without naming names, there are several watch brands I know of that tend to skimp on some of the finer details of their women’s watches. Thankfully, Grand Seiko is not one of them. They’ve constructed the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch with all the high levels of detailing and finishing you’d expect to find on their larger men’s watches. 

For starters, the case is almost entirely Zaratsu polished, a meticulous process that involves hand-polishing each surface to achieve a flawless, mirror-like finish. It’s a technique that takes up to three years to learn, seeing talented artisans hold the precious stainless steel metal against a spinning tin plate at a precise angle and with just the right amount of pressure. 

In addition to the Zaratsu polishing, there are also satin-brushed elements, mainly on the bracelet and the tops of the gently curved lugs. These satin-brushed finishes introduce a subtle contrast to the polished surfaces, adding depth and complexity to the overall design. This combination of finishes helps to enhance the dressy appeal of the design, bringing most of your attention to the bright polished surfaces. 

In a similar fashion, the dual-curved sapphire crystal glass placed on top cleverly brings your attention to the Snowflake dial at the center. The glass, with its seamless flow from case to dial, enhances the overall aesthetic and places the unique textures and details front and center. 

Sapphire crystal glass is also well-known for its durability and scratch resistance, making it ideal for those of you who want a luxury watch that will last. The inner surface features a layer of anti-reflective coating to help minimize glare, which helps you appreciate the snow-like texture of the dial even further without any distractions. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is completed by a gently knurled crown at 3 o’clock engraved with the GS logo and a screw-down case back beautifully embossed with the Japanese brand’s logo and their iconic lion emblem in relief. 

Together, the crown and case back warrant a healthy 100-meter water resistance, so having this watch out in the rain or on the wrist while watching dishes won’t be a problem.

The Snowflake Dial

While the case dimensions of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch are certainly a major attraction for those of us with smaller wrists, the real star of the show is, without a doubt, the iconic Snowflake dial. 

This mesmerizing dial has become synonymous with Grand Seiko, arguably putting the brand on the map for many collectors. What I truly appreciate about this watch is that Grand Seiko has ensured that the women’s version is just as spectacular as the men’s offerings without any compromises in design or craftsmanship. 

The Snowflake dial maintains the classic aesthetic that collectors adore, with its enchanting texture that mirrors freshly fallen snow. It’s one of those dials that draws you in, captivating your attention and mesmerizing you. Honestly, it can be a bit dangerous for me to wear a watch like this, as I often find myself staring at it rather than focusing on whatever task is at hand! 

Another thing I love about the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch’s dial is the simplicity of its layout. Unlike some of the larger models in the Snowflake family, this model doesn’t feature a power reserve indicator between the 7 and 8 o’clock marker. Instead, this release focuses solely on presenting the time and date. 

This design choice was probably forced upon Grand Seiko’s designers due to the lack of room available on such a small watch. But I’m glad that was the case since it’s a choice that adds to the watch’s elegance and allows the texture of the dial to take center stage. 

In keeping with Grand Seiko’s commitment to craftsmanship, all the hands and markers on the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359’s dial are Zaratsu polished, contributing to its luxurious feel. The hour and minute hands are elegantly shaped, sharp, and sword-like, catching the light beautifully as they sweep across the dial. 

Each hour marker is hand-faceted, showcasing the meticulous attention to detail that Grand Seiko is renowned for. The seconds hand is the only real touch of color, finished in stunning blued steel. Finally, the border around the date is polished and outlined in silver, framing the black-on-white date wheel with precision.

A Highly Accurate Quartz Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 is powered by the Caliber 4J52 movement, a quartz caliber crafted in-house by Seiko. I have to be honest; part of me feels a little disappointed that they released this Snowflake women’s watch with a quartz movement instead of a mechanical one. 

After all, Grand Seiko is renowned for its exceptional mechanical watches, and it would have been a dream to see this stunning design powered by none other than a Spring Drive movement. However, the 4J52 is a trusted quartz caliber with impressive accuracy, with a deviation of no more than ±10 seconds per day.

This precision is a significant selling point for the watch, making it an excellent choice for those who appreciate reliability in their timepieces. Plus, it’s one of the reasons this particular Grand Seiko model is among the most affordable options in the lineup. While I would have loved to see a mechanical movement here, I understand the considerations at play. The Spring Drive mechanism, while brilliant, has certain limitations in terms of size.

For now, I’m content to embrace the accuracy and dependability of the Caliber 4J52. It provides peace of mind that I won’t be constantly adjusting the time, plus I can easily take it off the wrist for several days at a time without ever having to twist the crown or shake up the movement to get its power pumping. And who knows, perhaps one day Seiko will create a smaller version of their Spring Drive for us small-wristed folk.

Straps

The stainless steel bracelet is a nice and expected complement to the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch. It is predominantly engineered with satin-brushed surfaces and Zaratsu polished sides that catch the light beautifully. The polished sides are a particularly nice touch, especially for their slightly rounded silhouette, which not only ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist but adds an extra touch of luxury and sophistication to the design.

Following the classic Oyster design, this bracelet is narrower than standard GS models, which suits the delicate nature of the women’s Snowflake watch perfectly. The links lead down to a standard folding clasp embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. 

It’s worth noting that the clasp lacks micro-adjust holes, which could make finding that perfect fit a bit more challenging. However, the design does come with drilled lugs, so strap changes are made easy. That means that if you want to switch things up, you can easily find alternative straps, like a nice leather band, to fit the 14mm lug width without problem.

On-Wrist Experience

Finally, let’s discuss how the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 wears on the wrist and how it felt on me this past week. First of all, this watch is ideal for everyday practicality. 

It’s barely noticeable on the wrist when your sleeves are rolled down thanks to the compact dimensions  — 28.9mm in diameter, 35.4mm lug-to-lug, and only 8.7mm in thickness – and the quartz movement. It’s almost weightless because of the latter, allowing it to disappear seamlessly on the wrist.

And yet, despite this, once the sleeves are rolled up, that Snowflake dial has a quiet confidence that attracts just the right amount of attention. The beautiful crisp white texture is a sight to behold, and during my time wearing this model, I received so many compliments on it. 

Because of this, although it wears effortlessly as a daily beater, you could easily get away with using this as a formal dress watch too. In fact, it’s the perfect one-watch collection, working well for pretty much any situation.

As for what wrist size best suits the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch, that ultimately comes down to how prominent you want the watch to appear. I have a five-and-a-half inch wrist, and it sat perfectly on my arm without feeling over or undersized. 

If you have smaller wrists and love something even daintier, then this would be the perfect watch for you. On the other hand, if you have large wrists but love the vintage look a small watch gives, then you’ll love it just as equally.

Price & Availability

As previously mentioned, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is one of the Japanese watch manufacturer’s most affordable models, retailing brand new for $2,300. If you want to purchase this model brand new, a quick word of warning: be sure to order from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. 

At least then, you’ll know you’re getting a genuine Grand Seiko watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. This is a watch also available on the second-hand market, typically selling for around $1,500. The watch remains a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s women’s collection and is not a limited edition.

Conclusion

If you couldn’t tell, I think the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is beautiful and well-thought-out. But most importantly, I think it’s a wonderfully significant addition to the watch world. It brings one of the industry’s most coveted dials to women in a beautiful, compact form. 

This design not only satisfies collectors like myself but also entices new female enthusiasts into the horological community. Could this watch be improved by a mechanical movement? Yes. But do its small dimensions and insanely reasonable price point make up for that? Absolutely.

Ask any watch collector or self-confessed timepiece enthusiast. We guarantee they’ll be more than happy to talk about mechanical watches, probably for hours, and explain to you just how innovative and breathtaking these timeless pieces are. 

Whether manually wound or powered by the movement of your wrist, mechanical watches have remained a symbol of craftsmanship and precision since their birth. Unlike quartz watches, which rely on a battery, mechanical watches utilize several intricate components to keep time.

So, just in case you’re new to the world of horology – that’s the fancy word for the art of watchmaking – and you don’t have an avid watch connoisseur in your life, let us guide you through all there is to know about mechanical watches including how they work, their history and how best to maintain then.

The Basics of a Mechanical Watch

Ok, so before we get into the nitty-gritty details of how a mechanical watch works, let’s first cover the basics. At the heart of any watch, there is something called a movement. This is the technology used to make the hands tick seamlessly around the dial so you can read the correct time. There are two key types of watch movements: quartz and mechanical.

Quartz watches are those powered by a small battery that needs replacing every couple of years. The battery relies on electricity and the properties of a quartz crystal, allowing quartz watches to be incredibly accurate and low maintenance. Mechanical watches, on the other hand, work completely differently. They don’t use batteries but instead rely on a series of tiny moving parts to keep time.

There are two types of mechanical movements: manual winding and automatic. Manual winding watches need to be wound by hand. You turn the crown (the little knob on the side of the watch), and this winds a component called the mainspring. As the mainspring unwinds, it releases stored energy that powers the movement, keeping the watch ticking. 

Automatic watches work similarly, except they have a small, semi-circular weight inside called a rotor, which winds the mainspring automatically as you wear the watch. The natural motion of your wrist makes the rotor spin, keeping the watch wound without you needing to do anything. If you wear it daily, it’ll keep ticking forever.

It’s these tiny, intricate parts that make a mechanical movement truly special. As you’ve probably realized, the mainspring is one of the most important components, as it’s this that needs winding to power the watch. 

It works by winding up and storing the energy needed to fuel the other components. This energy is then transmitted through the gear train, an escapement and a balance wheel, all of which work together to ensure the watch runs steadily and accurately.

History of Mechanical Watches

Mechanical watches date back centuries, with some of the first recorded mechanical clocks emerging from Europe during the late 13th century. But these were large tower clocks and not the wristwatches we know today. 

It wasn’t until the 16th century that the components of mechanical movements were made small enough to fit into portable, wearable watches. Some of the earliest mechanical watches were powered by a mechanism called the Verge escapement, an innovation that helped watches become more compact and wearable.

The first true mechanical watch was developed by Peter Henlein, a German locksmith, around 1510. His invention, often credited as the first portable timepiece, was a spring-powered pocket watch. However, it was far from accurate— as you’d expect for the world’s first-ever attempt. Instead, these early watches were mostly decorative, meant to showcase wealth rather than tell precise time.

Accuracy in mechanical watches became a major focus in the 18th century. John Harrison, an English carpenter and clockmaker, invented the marine chronometer, which revolutionized timekeeping as we know it. 

His device allowed sailors to determine longitude at sea, a breakthrough in navigation. This leap in precision marked the beginning of mechanical watches being valued not just for their beauty but for their accuracy.

As time went on, mechanical watch movements continued to evolve. The COSC certification (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) was introduced to set a high standard for accuracy in Swiss watches. 

To receive COSC certification, a mechanical watch must meet strict criteria, such as keeping time within -4 to +6 seconds per day, a mark of precision that separates ordinary watches from exceptional ones. Having a COSC-certified watch means you have the confidence your fancy wristwatch has passed several rigorous tests to prove its timekeeping abilities.

Today, mechanical watchmaking has reached entirely new heights with innovations like the Zenith El Primero. Launched in 1969, this has become famed for being the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. It not only automated the winding process but also boasted a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, making it one of the most precise mechanical movements of its time. 

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive is another notable innovation. This engineering marvel has somehow combined the mainspring of a mechanical movement with the electronic regulator of a quartz one. This hybrid technology allows for a completely smooth seconds hand and near-perfect precision.

Operating a Mechanical Movement

Until you’ve seen one up close, it’s difficult to explain just how incredible and innovative mechanical watch movements are. But we’ll try our best! 

These miniature marvels of engineering are powered by hundreds of tiny parts that all work together to keep the time showing on the dial accurate. Let’s break down the key parts of a mechanical watch and see how they work together to create a functioning timepiece.

The Mainspring

Many will agree that the mainspring is the heart of a mechanical watch. It’s a long, thin strip of metal wound tightly into a coil, and its job is to store energy. In a manual winding watch, you wind the watch by turning the crown, which tightens the mainspring. In an automatic watch, the winding happens naturally as you move your wrist, thanks to a rotor inside the watch that spins and winds the spring. 

As the mainspring unwinds, it releases the stored energy. The more tightly it’s wound, the more energy it stores, and the longer the watch can run. A fully wound mainspring can typically power a watch for about 40 hours, though some high-end watches offer much longer power reserves. The energy released by the mainspring powers the entire movement. 

However, it doesn’t release all the energy at once, but it does so slowly, over time. The process of controlling this energy flow is where the rest of the watch’s components come into play.

The Gear Train

Once the mainspring begins to release energy, it sends it through the gear train, a series of small gears that transmit the energy throughout the movement. These gears reduce the speed of the energy unwinding from the mainspring so that the hands on the watch move at the correct speed. 

At the start of the gear train, energy is moving very fast, but by the time it reaches the hands of the watch, it has been slowed down enough to turn the second, minute, and hour hands at their proper speeds. The gear train ensures that one complete rotation of the minute hand happens every 60 minutes and one rotation of the hour hand happens every 12 hours.

The Escapement

The escapement is another super important component of a mechanical watch because it controls the release of energy from the mainspring. Without it, the mainspring would unwind too quickly, and the watch would lose all its energy in seconds. 

The escapement acts almost like a gatekeeper, releasing tiny amounts of energy in controlled intervals. This gives the watch its steady “tick-tock” rhythm. It also works in conjunction with the balance wheel (which we’ll get to next) to regulate the speed at which the gears turn and the hands move.

In most mechanical watches, the escapement consists of two main parts: the escape wheel and the pallet fork. The escape wheel is connected to the gear train, and the pallet fork alternately locks and unlocks it, allowing the wheel to move forward one step at a time. 

Each time the escape wheel moves, a tiny burst of energy is sent to the rest of the movement, allowing the gears to turn in perfect time.

The Balance Wheel

Working closely with the escapement is the balance wheel, which is like the watch’s pendulum. The balance wheel oscillates back and forth at a constant rate, and this regular motion helps the escapement release energy in evenly spaced intervals. Attached to the balance wheel is a tiny, coiled spring called the hairspring or balance spring. 

As the balance wheel swings in one direction, the hairspring tightens. Then, it loosens, pushing the balance wheel back in the opposite direction. This process repeats over and over, giving the watch its rhythm. 

The oscillations of the balance wheel, typically 18,000 to 36,000 beats per hour, determine how quickly the escapement can unlock and release energy. The faster the balance wheel oscillates, the more precise the watch will be.

The Dial Train and Hands

The dial train is a series of gears that takes the controlled energy from the escapement and balance wheel and uses it to drive the hands of the watch. It reduces the speed of the gear train so that the second, minute, and hour hands move at their respective speeds. 

For example, the second hand completes one full rotation every 60 seconds, the minute hand completes one rotation every 60 minutes, and the hour hand completes one rotation every 12 hours. The dial train ensures that these rotations happen precisely and smoothly.

The Rotor (for Automatic Watches)

For automatic watches, there’s an additional component called the rotor. This is a semi-circular weight that spins as you move your wrist, winding the mainspring in the process. The rotor pivots around a central axis, and when it spins, it transfers energy to the mainspring, keeping the watch wound without the need for manual winding. 

The beauty of the rotor is that it uses the natural movement of your body to keep the watch running. If you wear your watch regularly, it will stay wound without you ever having to manually wind it.

The Crown

The crown is the small knob on the side of the watch that you use to wind it manually. In most watches, you can pull the crown out to adjust the time or push it in to wind the mainspring. 

Automatic watches can also be wound manually if the rotor hasn’t wound enough through natural movement. The crown is your main point of interaction with the mechanical movement, and it plays a crucial role in keeping the watch running smoothly.

Mechanical Watch Maintenance Tips

As is the case with any watch, mechanical watches require some love and care to keep them ticking for years. One of the most important and possibly obvious tips we can give you is to keep your mechanical watch wound. 

For many watches, make sure to wind the crown gently once per day, preferably at the same time each day. If you have an automatic watch but you don’t wear it daily, you might want to consider getting a watch winder to keep it running.

Another key tip is to avoid exposure to magnets, as they can affect the watch’s accuracy. Keep your mechanical watch away from electronic devices like smartphones, speakers, and laptops, which emit magnetic fields, as these can mess with those intricate components inside and ultimately ruin the precision and functionality of your timepiece. 

Similarly, we also suggest keeping your watch clean. Wiping it with a soft, dry cloth every now and then will help to prevent any dust, dirt, or sweat from getting into the movement. This will also help keep your watch looking brand new.

Depending on the water resistant rating of your mechanical watch, try to avoid submerging it in water. And even if your watch is water resistant, check the seals periodically. This can also be done when you service your watch, which should be actioned by a professional every 3 to 5 years. 

Over time, the oils inside the movement can dry out, and the tiny gears can wear down, so the regular maintenance provided by a watch service ensures your watch keeps performing at its best.

Conclusion

Hopefully, you can now see why so many of us watch nerds and why we love the beauty and technology of mechanical watches. These little works of art require no battery, but just a selection of finely tuned gears, springs, and wheels to tell the time. 

Whether manually wound or automatic, mechanical watches represent centuries of horological innovation. Sure, they’re not as accurate as quartz watches, but those battery-operated movements lack the artistry, engineering, and history that comes with a true mechanical timepiece.

It feels like watches have been around forever, especially with everyone’s growing love of vintage designs of late. But interestingly, watches aren’t as old as we might think. Compared to so many other human inventions, watches are a relatively recent addition. 

Believe it or not, wristwatches have only been worn for around 100 years. And before that, timekeeping was a little more… creative. 

But how did we go from tracking the time using sundials to wearing sleek, high-precision instruments on our wrists? The history of watches is more fascinating than you might think, with roots that stretch back to humanity’s earliest attempts to measure time. 

From the first mechanical clocks in the 14th century to the miniaturization that allowed for pocket watches, and finally, the wristwatches that became popular in the 20th century, each step of this evolution tells a story of innovation and clever craftsmanship. 

Today, I’ll be taking a closer look at the history of watchmaking, going right back to the beginning to see how it all got started. So, if you’ve just looked down at your wrist and randomly asked yourself when watches were invented, I’ve got you. 

When Was The First Watch Made?

Early humans weren’t exactly checking their watches to make appointments or arrive on time for work like we do. Instead, they typically looked up to the sky and judged the time of day based on where the sun was. It’s why some of the earliest timekeeping instruments were things like the sundial, which goes all the way back to the ancient Egyptians. 

They used the sun’s shadow to mark the passage of time during the day. There were also water clocks (also known as clepsydra), which the Greeks and Chinese used to track time by the steady flow of water. And let’s not forget the trusty hourglass, which appeared in medieval Europe. But more on these devices shortly.

Fast forward to the invention of mechanical clocks, and things start to look a little more familiar. One big leap came in the 17th century with the invention of the pendulum clock by Dutch scientist Christian Huygens. 

This was a major breakthrough because pendulums were way more accurate than anything people had before. But, as cool as pendulum clocks were, they weren’t exactly portable!

Enter Peter Henlein, a German locksmith and clockmaker from the 15th century, who is often credited as the inventor of the first “watch.” Henlein’s creations were called “clock-watches,” and they were small enough to be carried on the body, usually in a pocket, hence the name pocket watch. 

These early pocket watches, made in the 1500s, were the first step toward timekeeping becoming a personal accessory. The thing is, they were luxury items back then, reserved for the rich and fancy. It wasn’t until the late 18th century when the Industrial Revolution kicked in, that pocket watches became more affordable for the general public.

But alas, pocket watches weren’t as handy as some people would have liked. They had to be hung from clothing, usually on a chain, and often required two hands to use—one to hold the watch and the other to open the cover or read the time. 

As people’s lives became busier and more fast-paced, especially during wartime, a more practical solution was needed. So what about a pocket watch… but strapped to the wrist?

When Was The First Wristwatch Created?

It’s argued that the original inventor of the first wristwatch was Abraham-Louis Breguet, a Swiss watchmaker who, in 1810, crafted the very first timepiece designed to be worn on the wrist for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples. 

This wristwatch, however, was quite different from the wristwatches we know today. It was an ornate, delicate piece made for royalty. Truthfully, it was more of a piece of jewelry than a timekeeper.

For much of the 19th century, wristwatches were considered a luxury item and were mainly worn by women. Men, on the other hand, stuck to their trusty pocket watches, which were seen as more masculine and accurate. 

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that wristwatches became more popular, especially for men. World War I played a significant role in this shift, as soldiers needed to quickly check the time in battle without fumbling with a pocket watch. This practicality led to wristwatches being widely adopted by the military and, soon after, by the general public.

The Evolution of Watchmaking 

As we mentioned, Abraham-Louis Breguet crafted the first wristwatch in 1810, but it took some time for these designs to catch on. After World War I, however, wristwatches became the norm, and watchmakers around the world quickly followed suit, designing their own variations. With more brands jumping into the market, competition drove rapid innovation, leading to significant technological advancements. 

One of the biggest innovations came in the early 20th century with the development of automatic movements. In 1923, John Harwood created the first self-winding wristwatch, which used the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist to keep the watch powered without the need for manual winding. 

This was a game-changer for watch wearers since, previously, watches had to be manually wounded by hand. Now, as long as they were never taken off the wrist, they would power indefinitely. 

Then came the quartz revolution. In 1969, Japanese watchmaker Seiko introduced the first quartz wristwatch, which used an electronic oscillator regulated by a quartz crystal. Quartz movements were far more accurate than mechanical ones and much cheaper to produce, leading to the widespread availability of affordable watches. 

This innovation rocked the watchmaking industry for quite some time, and for a short while, it was thought that mechanical movements were gone for good. Thankfully, that wasn’t quite the case! It seems watch wearers now appreciate the precision of quartz and the traditional beauty of mechanical timepieces. 

Of course, today, we’re also in the age of smartwatches. With digital displays, fitness tracking, and even the ability to make calls and send texts, these gadgets prove just how far we’ve come from the sundials of Egyptian times.

How Did People Track Time in the Past?

It’s widely believed that the world’s first timekeeping device was the sundial, with evidence suggesting it was used as far back as ancient Egypt in 1500 BCE. Yes, that’s a long, long time ago. 

For it to work, the Egyptians would place a vertical stick, known as a gnomon, in the ground and observe the shadow it cast to determine the time of day based on the sun’s position. 

As the sun moved across the sky, the shadow shifted, giving a rough estimate of the hour. Sundials were widely used in ancient Greece and Rome as well, but they only worked during daylight hours and, of course, required a sunny day. 

To address the limitations of sundials, ancient civilizations like the Greeks and Chinese developed the water clock, also called a clepsydra. The water clock used the steady flow of water from one container to another to measure the passage of time. 

These clocks were used as early as 4000 BCE in Babylon and Egypt. The Greeks later improved the design, adding gears and scales to make them more accurate. While they could be used during the day and night, they were still prone to inaccuracy due to temperature variations affecting the flow of water. 

Then came the hourglass, also known as a sandglass. This timekeeping device emerged in medieval Europe, though its exact year of invention is unclear. It likely appeared in the 8th century and became popular by the 14th century. 

Hourglasses work by allowing sand to flow from one bulb to another at a steady rate, measuring specific increments of time. Unlike sundials and water clocks, hourglasses were portable and more reliable, but they had to be manually reset after each use.

Conclusion

Timekeeping has come a long way from ancient sundials and water clocks. It was the brilliant Christian Huygens who, in 1656, created the pendulum clock, marking a huge leap in timekeeping accuracy. 

Then, in the early 19th century, master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet designed the first wristwatch, setting the stage for the stylish and practical timepieces we love and wear today. From tracking the sun to wearing time on our wrists, it’s fascinating to see how our need to measure time has shaped history. I wonder what will come next…

The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is arguably one of the Japanese watchmaker’s most popular and iconic models. It’s a watch that embodies the elegance and craftsmanship that Grand Seiko is renowned for, featuring a charming dial design that mimics the beauty of freshly fallen snow. However, due to its high craftsmanship and limited availability, the Grand Seiko Snowflake is not as easily accessible as watch enthusiasts would like. 

And yet, a watch that bears a striking resemblance to the essence of the Snowflake, yet one that doesn’t carry its prestigious nickname, is the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269. 

This model showcases an equally refined aesthetic, enhanced functionality, and a snow-inspired dial texture, making it an appealing alternative for those seeking the sophistication of the Grand Seiko Snowflake without the scarcity associated with it.

The Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT Collection

For as long as I’ve been following the work of Grand Seiko, nature has played a significant role in their designs. There’s something rather beautiful about the thought of Grand Seiko designers simply looking out the windows of the company’s manufacturing facilities and drawing inspiration from the weather and flora found right outside their windows. 

The Grand Seiko Snowflake has always epitomized the brand’s love of nature, beautifully mirroring the purity of freshly fallen snow in the mountains surrounding the Grand Seiko factory in Shizukuishi. 

Other popular models worthy of mention are the Grand Seiko White Birch Shirakaba SLGH005, which has a breathtaking dial inspired by the texture and color of the birch trees found outside their studio, and the Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Omiwatari” SBGY007, which mimics the texture of Lake Susa when its water freezes during the winter. 

It’s clear that their connection to nature has become a signature aspect of the brand, leading to the creation of numerous models inspired by the textures and colors found in the natural world. 

More recently, Grand Seiko introduced the Four Seasons Collection, which again cements their commitment to nature-inspired design. The non-limited series draws inspiration from the different colors of Japan’s changing seasons. 

Whereas we simply measure the seasons in spring, summer, autumn, and winter, in Japanese culture, they divide the year into 24 smaller segments known as sekki, with each of the watches in the Four Seasons collection representing one of these sekki. 

The Grand Seiko Four Seasons collection was first introduced in 2019 and featured a quartet of time-and-date-only models with colorful and textured dials inspired by “Taisetsu”, the deep snow of winter, “Shunbun”, the vernal equinox, “Rikka”, early summer and “Shubun”, the autumnal equinox. 

Shortly after, Grand Seiko expanded the series further by adding more dial colors and additional GMT complication into this mix. And so, in 2021, the Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT collection was born. 

Once again, the watches in this collection represent four different sekki. The line-up includes the Hi-Beat 36000 powered “Shunbun” SBGJ251 and “Shosho SBGJ249, and two Spring Drive-powered watches called “Kanro” SBGE271 & “Toji” SBGE269. 

It’s the latter that I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this week, and with a dial inspired by the winter solstice, I have forgiven myself for originally thinking this was a Grand Seiko Snowflake when I first opened the box.

A Crisp-As-Snow Steel Case

Like all the models in the Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT collection, the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is slightly based on the original 62GS case from the 1960s. Much like the original, we have a soft, curved silhouette with a gently sloping bezel and refined lugs that beautifully highlight the watch’s polished surfaces. 

But as you’ll have probably noticed, the dimensions of this watch are a little more modern, coming in at 40.2mm wide and with a thickness of 14mm. It’s a well-sized watch that will suit most wrists. The lug-to-lug is 48.5mm, and if you count the end links, I measured it sitting at 51.2mm across. 

As for finishing, no expense is spared as usual from Grand Seiko. Much of the case is polished using a technique the Japanese watch brand calls Zaratsu polishing. It involves holding the stainless steel surface against a spinning tin plate using just the right amount of pressure and angle to create these beautiful mirror-like finishes. 

It’s a technique that takes about three years to learn, ensuring that only the most skilled artisans, known as Takumi, are entrusted with this meticulous process. It’s also a process typically reserved for small movement parts, so seeing it on a macro scale across an entire case is truly exceptional. Getting a fully hand-finished watch at this price is not a common sight. 

A few smaller portions of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s case are brushed, creating a visual of light play and contrasts. Other than its finishing, the most visually noticeable part of the case is the sapphire crystal glass. 

It’s one that is dramatically domed, adding to the watch’s 1960s-inspired heritage. It’s also this that adds to the larger 14mm thickness. Despite giving off the appearance of vintage plexiglass, the material is super scratch-resistant and treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface for legibility. Ultimately, you get the period feel without any of the compromises that come with real vintage watches. 

Completing the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s retro personality is the signed crown placed at 3 o’clock. Not quite an onion crown, but still relatively prominent in size and boasting a slightly domed and fully knurled exterior, it adds to the watch’s vintage charm while ensuring functionality. This screw-in crown enhances the watch’s water resistance, providing an impressive 100 meters of protection against the elements.

A Winter Solstice Dial

Easily, my favorite part of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is the dial. Nicknamed “Toji” after one of Japan’s twenty-four sekki that marks the winter solstice, the hammered silvered white texture has a beautiful, almost random grain inspired by the texture and color of snow as it shines in the sunlight of the winter solstice. 

It’s one of those dials you really need to see in person to appreciate, and no matter how hard I try, it’s impossible for me to find the words to describe its beauty accurately. 

The texture is larger and deeper than those seen on the popular Grand Seiko Snowflake watches but still has the same ethereal quality that instantly catches your eye. I love it, and I urge anyone reading this remotely tempted by its finish to go see this at your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer. 

For the hands and markers, Grand Seiko has once again elected hand-finishing for all the hardware. The dauphine-styled hour and minute hands are beautifully sharp with a combination of brushed and polished finishing, much like each hour marker, which is faceted with polished faces and brushed exteriors.

In contrast, the GMT hand is finished in a wonderful shade of rose gold to evoke the last rays of an evening sun. It’s a beautiful pop of color against an otherwise monochromatic dial and adds a touch of warmth and elegance to the overall aesthetic. We have the same color marking the GMT text at 6 o’clock, further tying together the dial’s design elements. 

The dial is also home to a 72-hour power reserve indicator, but Grand Seiko has ingeniously chosen to print it onto the dial’s textured surface rather than opting for a sunken scale. This decision preserves the watch’s clean lines and enhances the visual depth, allowing the textured background to play a prominent role in the overall design. 

The result is a more concise and subtle look that seamlessly integrates all the features without overwhelming the eye. It also brings the power reserve indicator in line with the printed black railway track found around the dial’s circumference. 

Another clever addition to the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s dial is the 24-hour scale. 

Compared to the SBGJ249 and SBGJ251 models in the same collection, the 24-hour markers have been moved to the minute track to help the dial breathe a bit more and not feel cluttered. We’re also treated to a box-shaped date window positioned at 3 o’clock and the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock.

A Spring Drive Movement

Alongside a completely hand-finished case and dial, we also have a movement that’s been built, tuned, and – when necessary – serviced entirely in-house by Grand Seiko. The movement in question is the Caliber 9R66, an automatic winding Spring Drive movement that represents one of Grand Seiko’s most innovative achievements. 

The Spring Drive combines the precision of a quartz movement with the mechanical beauty of a traditional automatic movement. Unlike conventional mechanical movements, which rely on a balance wheel and escapement, the Spring Drive caliber uses a unique “tri-synchro regulator” system. 

This regulates the movement by using a mainspring for power, just like a mechanical watch, but instead of an escapement, it uses an electromagnetic brake that works with a quartz crystal for precise timekeeping. 

This allows for incredible accuracy, with a deviation of only +/-1 seconds per day or +/- 15 seconds per month. It also delivers the signature smooth, gliding seconds hand that is famously a hallmark of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive watches. 

The Caliber 9R66 also features a GMT complication, allowing for the tracking of a second timezone, and boasts a 72-hour power reserve. There’s also a hacking seconds function, 30 jewels, and manual winding capability should you wish to see the power reserve indicator operate before your eyes. 

Turning the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch around, and you can admire the Spring Drive movement for yourself, including its handsomely striped oscillating rotor and bridges.

A Hybrid Bracelet

Completing the exterior of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is a classic full stainless steel bracelet. Its design is almost like a hybrid of a dress and sports bracelet. It has the beautiful, rolled flanks and the polished intermediates of a dress bracelet but then a sturdy three-row link architecture similarly styled to the Rolex Oyster bracelet. 

The surface of each link is brushed in the same direction as the bracelet falls, leading down towards a single-fold deployment clasp with twin trigger release. 

Sadly, the bracelet doesn’t come with any micro-adjustment, but we are given two half-links on either side to get a near-perfect fit. There’s also screw links to make adjustments easier and drilled lugs, so should you wish to swap out the strap for something different, that won’t be too much of a task. That said, Grand Seiko has elected a lug width of 19mm, which is a little awkward for finding replacement watch bands.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 is easily one of those “throw-on-and-go” watches. Its dimensions make it very wearable across a wide variety of wrist sizes. I’d recommend it for anyone with wrists as small as six inches and as large as eight inches. 

But please, if you don’t fall within that range, don’t let it put you off. If you have smaller wrists but love the oversized look, or if you have larger wrists and appreciate a more vintage vibe, this watch could still work beautifully for you. Plus, you can always swap out the metal bracelet for a leather strap to tone down its presence and make it feel a bit more understated. 

It is a thick watch, measuring 14mm tall, primarily due to the domed sapphire crystal. Unfortunately, this means it may not slide easily under the cuff of a dress shirt unless the cuffs are loose. Instead, it gives off more of a daily-beater or sports watch vibe, though it can still be worn for dressier occasions, thanks to that brilliant textured dial.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch retails brand new for $6,000. We always recommend purchasing your Grand Seiko watches through one of the brand’s authorized retailers, like Exquisite Timepieces. 

This way, you can sport your new timepiece knowing it’s the real deal and it’s arrived with all the official paperwork and warranty. You can also find this model on the second-hand market for around $4,500 if you’re working with a smaller budget. 

Thankfully, unlike so many of the Grand Seiko Snowflake watches, this winter-inspired release is a non-limited edition, and there’s plenty of availability at the time of writing this! But keep in mind this is a watch that has been out for three years now, so if it’s one you’ve fallen in love with, I recommend snapping it up as soon as you can, just in case Grand Seiko suddenly decides to discontinue it.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 is hands down one of the most beautiful Grand Seiko watches I’ve had the pleasure of trying on recently. If you’re someone who’s been captivated by the magic of the Grand Seiko Snowflake but hasn’t quite found the budget or the right model for you, this could be the perfect watch. The crisp white textured dial is absolutely breathtaking and really stands out as a centerpiece.

As I mentioned earlier, I strongly urge anyone who’s even somewhat interested to go see this watch in person. The way the light plays off the dial, the rich texture, and those subtle hand-finished elements are something you truly have to experience up close. I guarantee you’ll get lost in its details just as much as I did!