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cartier panthere small vs medium

Cartier Panthere Small vs Medium: Which Panthere Size Should You Get?

Charlotte H

March 13, 2025

For a long time now, the Cartier Panthere has been widely considered more than just a timepiece but a little piece of luxury. It’s beloved by collectors, celebrities, and style enthusiasts, spotted on some of the world’s most famous wrists. For this reason, many will confidently argue it as one of those rare watches that deserves to forever live in the jewelry watches hall of fame.   

From afar, it’s instantly recognisable for its sleek square-shaped case, feline-inspired design and air of prestige. There’s no denying that the Panthere embodies everything Cartier stands for. But if you’re thinking about adding one to your collection, there’s one decision you’ll need to make first and that’s picking a size. 

You might think size is just about fit, but trust me, it goes way beyond that. The size can completely change how the watch looks and feels on your wrist, and to make things even more interesting, certain styles and finishes of the Cartier Panthere are exclusive to specific sizes. That means your choice isn’t just about preference; it can shape the entire buying experience. 

In this guide, we’ll break down the differences between the Cartier Panthere Small and Cartier Panthere Medium, so you can choose the one that fits your style and wrist.

The Cartier Panthere Collection 

Cartier Panthere Collection 

Cartier has no shortage of exceptional luxury watches. Many of you will likely be familiar with the Cartier Tank, a watch shaped like the tracks of a military tank, embodying timeless elegance and clean, geometric lines.

There’s also the famous Santos de Cartier, which holds the distinction of being one of the first wristwatches ever created, originally designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont to provide practicality and sophistication in flight.

Joining these iconic collections is the Cartier Panthere collection, a line that exudes femininity and glamour, characterized by its sleek, jewelry-like design and a bracelet that flows as smoothly as liquid metal. 

With its origins in the glamorous 1980s and a celebrated revival in 2017, the Cartier Panthere collection has solidified its place as one of Cartier’s most enduring and iconic designs. From its unmistakable bracelet to its feline-inspired elegance, it’s a watch with a brilliant history and an equally brilliant range of variations in today’s line-up to choose from. 

A Quick History of the Cartier Panthere

 The history of the Cartier Panthere interestingly doesn’t start with the release of the watch. In fact, it began way before in 1914 when Louis Cartier commissioned artist George Barbier to create a piece called “Lady with a Panther” for a jewelry exhibition. That same year, the first ever panther motif appeared on a Cartier piece, a wristwatch adorned with onyx and diamonds in a panther-spotted pattern. 

From that moment on, the panther became a legendary symbol of the fine jewelry brand. Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s creative director at the time, further cemented the panther’s legacy by launching the “La Panthere,” a feline-inspired jewellery collection which featured everything from panther-shaped rings to intricate brooches.

The Panthere de Cartier watch, however, took a subtler approach. Named for its fluid, graceful bracelet that mimics the animal’s movement, the Panthere watch was designed to embody the panther’s spirit in form rather than imagery. 

When Cartier unveiled the Panthere watch in 1983, it was an instant hit. The design balanced sophistication and versatility, appealing to both men and women.

Available in various sizes, from the petite Mini to the bold Jumbo, the Cartier Panthere offered something for everyone. Its square case, reminiscent of Cartier’s earlier Santos design, was softened with rounded edges and paired with a five-link bracelet that gave it an undeniable jewelry-like quality. 

During the 1980s and 1990s, the Panthere became synonymous with luxury, gracing the wrists of celebrities like Madonna and Pierce Brosnan. Its quartz movement, cutting-edge at the time, kept the design sleek while ensuring practicality.

From all-gold versions to two-tone styles and diamond-set models, the Panthere was as much about individual expression as it was about timeless glamour. 

Design Characteristics of the Cartier Panthere 

  • A Square Case and Bezel: With eight small rivets, the bezel’s symmetry adds a subtle edge to the otherwise fluid design.
  • Roman Numerals and Blue Sword-Shaped Hands: The classic Cartier dial layout, with its secret signature hidden within the Roman numeral X, maintains tradition although there are several new dial variations that are now also available.
  • The Five-Link Bracelet: This ultra-flexible, silky bracelet is the heart of the Panthere collection, transforming it into a piece that seamlessly straddles the line between watch and jewelry.
  • Quartz Movement: The slim quartz mechanism keeps the watch lightweight and functional, allowing the bracelet to remain the centerpiece.

Cartier Panthere Medium vs Small – The Right Size for You

Cartier Panthere Medium vs Small

When it comes to the Cartier Panthere collection, there is a wealth of variety to explore. Cartier offers several sizes within this iconic collection, catering to different preferences and styles.

While the focus of this comparison is the Small and Medium models, it’s worth noting that the collection also includes a Mini (or Very Small) model and a Large model, each with unique characteristics. 

The Cartier Panthere Mini is the most petite of the collection, measuring to just 25 mm by 20 mm with a thickness of 6 mm.

This model currently comes in a single, highly luxurious variation inclusive of a quartz movement and a breathtaking rhodium-finished white gold case covered entirely in brilliant-cut diamonds.

Its crown is also adorned with a brilliant-cut diamond, and the silvered dial features blued-steel sword-shaped hands under sapphire crystal. This Mini model is truly a jewelry piece as much as it is a watch, offering an unmatched elegance in its diminutive size. 

On the other end of the spectrum is the Cartier Panthere Large, available in three variations: full stainless steel, two-tone stainless steel and 18kt gold, and full 18kt gold. The Large model measures 31 mm by 42 mm, with a thickness of 6.71 mm. It provides a bold statement on the wrist while retaining the refined sophistication Cartier is known for.

Between these extremes, the Small and Medium Panthere models stand out for their versatility and broader range of options. Here’s all you need to know about these two popular sizes. 

The Cartier Panthere Small 

The Small model measures 30.3 mm by 22 mm, with a thickness of 6.3 mm. It strikes a perfect balance between the delicacy of the Mini and the presence of the Medium or Large models. The Small Panthere offers more options compared to the Mini and Large collections, making it a favourite among those looking for variety. 

Currently, there are six references in the Small size. These include two two-toned gold and steel variations with silvered dials decorated with black Roman numerals and the traditional blued-steel hands. Additionally, there are four stunning solid gold models.

These gold variants can be ordered with a black lacquer dial, a golden grained dial, a rose gold-colored grained dial and a special brown dial. The latter is particularly beautiful, utilizing graduated shades of gold and golden brown to form a diagonal pattern in the center. 

The first three gold models feature diamond-set bezels and the iconic diamond-tipped crown. The fourth, with its brown dial, features a crown set with a blue sapphire and a simple, unadorned bezel.

This latter option is particularly unique within the Panthere collection, offering a more understated elegance and a distinctive look. As one of my personal favourites, it’s a reference that could easily sway a decision for those torn between sizes. 

The Cartier Panthere Medium 

The Medium Panthere comes in a little larger at 27 mm by 37 mm with a thickness of 6 mm, making it more prominent and a little more of a statement piece than the Small model. It also offers the most extensive range of variations within the entire Cartier Panthere collection, providing options to suit almost every taste. 

Currently, the Cartier Panthere Medium comes in steel, two-toned gold, and full gold cases. These are complemented by a variety of dial and bezel combinations, including silvered dials with black Roman numerals and blued hands, black lacquer dials with gold hands, plain bezels and diamond-set bezels and diamond-set dials and non-diamond-set dials.

There’s also one model entirely encrusted with diamonds, featuring 415 brilliant-cut diamonds across the dial, bezel, crown, case, and bracelet to total a whopping 7.80 carats. 

This impressive variety ensures that the Medium size can cater to those seeking subtle sophistication as well as full-on opulence. 

Which Cartier Panthere Is Right for You? 

When deciding between the Cartier Panthere Small and Panthere Medium models, several factors come into play, including wrist size, personal style, and intended use. 

For those with petite wrists, the Cartier Panthere Small may be the ideal choice. Its dimensions ensure it sits comfortably on smaller wrists while maintaining a chic and elegant appearance.

The variety of designs, especially the solid gold options with unique dials, provide ample opportunities to find a model that matches your personality. 

Those with larger wrists or those wanting something a little more versatile, the Cartier  Panthere Medium will likely be the more tempting of the two. It offers a slightly larger presence that’s perfect for making a statement without feeling oversized.

Plus, it’s extensive range of variations allows you to choose a model that transitions seamlessly from day to night, whether you prefer understated steel or the glamour of diamonds. 

For lovers of luxurious details, you can’t go wrong with either. Both sizes offer exquisite craftsmanship, but if you’re drawn to more unique dial designs, such as the diagonal gold-and-brown pattern in the Small model, that might tip the scales in its favor. Conversely, if you’re looking for sheer extravagance, the fully diamond-encrusted Medium model is unparalleled.

Conclusion 

Ultimately, the choice between the Cartier Panthere Small and Panthere Medium comes down to personal preference and lifestyle. If you have a petite wrist or prefer a watch that feels daintier, the Small model’s refined elegance and unique dial designs, such as the stunning diagonal gold-and-brown configuration, make it an excellent choice. Its slightly smaller presence exudes sophistication without overwhelming the wrist, making it perfect for those seeking understated glamour.

On the other hand, the Medium size offers unmatched versatility and variety compared to the other sizes, with options ranging from sleek steel designs to dazzling diamond-encrusted models.

If you’re after a watch that can transition effortlessly from casual chic to full-on evening luxury, the Medium size is hard to beat. Its larger case also makes a stronger style statement, ideal for those who love a bolder accessory or just have slightly larger wrists.

No matter which size you decide on, we have no doubt you’ll love the Cartier Panthere. It’s a masterpiece of design and craftsmanship and one of those rare watches that continually turns heads.

From the fluid bracelet to the exquisite dial options, every detail has been thoughtfully designed to catch the eye and spark admiration. So which Cartier Panthere will you choose?

longines vs tudor

Longines vs Tudor: Battle Between two Luxury Watch Giants

Charlotte H

March 7, 2025

If someone asked me to name some watch brands that perfectly straddle the line between accessibility and luxury, two names would instantly spring to mind: Longines and Tudor. These Swiss powerhouses epitomize what it means to create high-quality, refined timepieces that don’t demand you empty your bank account. 

With their use of premium materials, robust Swiss-made movements, and a commitment to precision, both brands have carved out a unique space in the watch world, one that’s as approachable as it is aspirational.

But what really makes this comparison fascinating is just how much these two brands have in common. Take the Longines Spirit and the Tudor Black Bay, for example. 

Both exude a vintage-inspired, tool-watch charm that pays homage to the golden age of watchmaking while offering modern reliability and style. And yet, despite their similarities, each brand brings its own design DNA and rich history to the table, making them distinct in their own right.

Ultimately, choosing between Longines and Tudor comes down to personal preference. Do you gravitate toward Longines’ elegant heritage, or does Tudor’s bold, adventure-ready spirit speak to you more? 

Either way, you’re in good hands. So, without further ado, let’s dive into the histories, design philosophies, and standout collections of these two iconic brands to help you make the best choice for your wrist.

Brand Heritage

Let’s talk about Longines, a name that’s been around since 1832. It all started in the quiet Swiss town of Saint-Imier when Auguste Agassiz opened a little watch workshop. 

Fast forward a few decades, and his nephew Ernest Francillon came on board, turning that small operation into something much bigger.

He centralized production, something that was a bold move back then, and stamped the brand with the winged hourglass logo we still see today, officially putting Longines on the map. 

What really set Longines apart in its early days was its desire to push boundaries. They have secured many “firsts” in their arsenal, like the first flyback chronograph, the first rotating bezel, and even the first dual-time-zone watch. 

Longines also revolutionized sports timing, becoming the go-to watchmaker for precision timekeeping in equestrian sports, skiing, and even aviation. 

The latter is one of Longines’ biggest claims to fame, having worked with aviation legends like Charles Lindbergh, who collaborated with Longines to create the iconic Hour Angle watch. It’s why you’ll often find so many celebrating Longines modern-day pilot’s watch collection.

Nowadays, Longines is part of the Swatch Group and is still producing watches that blend timeless design with modern tech, making it a favorite for anyone who wants a piece of Swiss heritage at an affordable price.

For Tudor, things started a little later. The Swiss watchmaker’s story kicked off in 1926 when Hans Wilsdorf, the mastermind behind Rolex, decided to create a brand that would offer the same durability, precision, and reliability as Rolex but at a more accessible price point. Tudor nailed that balance by using Rolex’s iconic cases and bracelets but keeping costs down with off-the-shelf movements. 

Tudor quickly built a reputation for toughness. Their partnership with the French Navy cemented their status as the go-to for dive watches, starting with the Submariner in 1954.

And let’s not forget 1969, when Tudor decided to do something bold with the iconic “snowflake” hands. Even today, these broad, super legible hands are what help set Tudor apart from their big brother, Rolex. 

Modern Tudor continues to embrace its legacy while pushing boundaries. The brand redefined itself in 2010 with the launch of the Tudor Heritage line, which brought vintage-inspired models like the Black Bay and Pelagos to a new generation of collectors. 

Notably, Tudor has stepped out of Rolex’s shadow by offering its own in-house movements, combining precision engineering with rugged aesthetics.

Model Variety

When it comes to sheer variety, Longines is tough to beat. They have a watch for pretty much every occasion and every type of wearer, whether you’re looking for a sleek dress watch, a rugged pilot’s watch, a sporty dive watch, or something that strikes a balance between these styles. Longines splits its lineup into two main categories: the Classic collection and the Sport collection. 

The Classic collection is where you’ll find their most timeless and elegant watches. For men and women who appreciate understated sophistication, the DolceVita series is a standout. 

Its rectangular cases and Art Deco vibes make it perfect for formal occasions or as an everyday dress watch. Then there’s the Master Collection, which is packed with complications like moon phases, chronographs, and power reserve indicators all wrapped in a refined package. 

On the other hand, the Sport collection is where Longines flexes its versatility. The HydroConquest is a modern dive watch with impressive water resistance and bold designs, perfect for those who love the outdoors. 

For fans of aviation history, the Spirit collection channels the brand’s ties to pioneering aviators with vintage-inspired tool watches. And if you’re looking for something sleek but sporty, the Conquest line covers everything from casual wear to sports timing. 

With such a broad range of styles, sizes, and configurations, including a significant number of watches designed specifically for women, Longines truly offers something for everyone.

Tudor’s lineup, by contrast, is more streamlined but still covers all the essentials. The brand’s modern success is built largely around the Black Bay collection, which has grown into a versatile family of dive watches inspired by Tudor and Rolex history. 

It all started with models like the classic Black Bay Fifty-Eight, but the collection now includes GMTs, chronographs, and even dressier models like the Black Bay 31/36/39/41.

These watches combine vintage-inspired designs with modern technology and are perfect for those who want a balance between ruggedness and elegance. 

If you’re looking for a pure dive watch, Tudor’s Pelagos series delivers. This line is designed for serious underwater use, offering advanced features like helium escape valves and lightweight titanium cases.

The Ranger, on the other hand, is all about adventure, channeling the rugged spirit of the Rolex Explorer with its simple, no-nonsense design. 

For something a bit more dressy, the 1926 collection offers classic styles for men and women, while the Clair de Rose line caters specifically to women with a refined, elegant touch.

Finally, there’s the Royal collection, which combines sporty and formal elements with integrated bracelets, offering a great alternative to higher-priced luxury models. 

While Tudor’s range may not be as extensive as Longines’, it’s easier to navigate. However, you’ll find fewer options in terms of sizes, case shapes, and dial configurations, which could be a deciding factor if you like a lot of variety. 

Design

Tudor Black Bay

When it comes to design, Longines puts a lot of its focus on elegance and versatility. The brand has mastered the art of blending tradition with innovation, creating watches that are both sophisticated and highly functional. Each collection within Longines feels like it tells its own story, often inspired by the brand’s rich history.

Take the Spirit collection, for example. Its vintage-inspired pilot’s watches channel the durability, legibility, and adventurous spirit of Longines’ aviation past.

Then there’s the Master Collection, which exudes refinement with its clean dials, intricate complications, and classic aesthetics. Even their sportier lines, like the HydroConquest, maintain a polished and versatile look, proving that ruggedness doesn’t mean sacrificing style. 

Longines also offers exceptional diversity in design, catering to men and women equally. Whether it’s the elegance of the DolceVita for women or the sporty sophistication of the Conquest for men, there’s a Longines watch for nearly every occasion and personal style. Their ability to balance a rich heritage with modern-day appeal is one of their biggest strengths, making their designs feel as relevant today as they were decades ago. 

Tudor, on the other hand, has a much more focused design philosophy, one that’s rooted in adventure and rugged functionality. While their designs often take cues from Rolex, it’s worth noting that Tudor has carved out its own identity. Their watches are bold, durable, and unapologetically tool-like, yet refined enough to wear every day. 

One of the hallmarks of Tudor’s design DNA is their snowflake hands, a bold, angular design first introduced in the 1960s. These hands have become iconic, giving Tudor watches a unique and recognizable character. 

The Black Bay collection, which is the cornerstone of Tudor’s lineup, perfectly showcases their retro-inspired yet modern style. From the classic Black Bay Fifty-Eight to the GMT models, these designs feel rugged and adventurous while nodding to the golden era of dive watches in the 1950s and 60s. 

Tudor’s Pelagos collection takes this ruggedness to the next level with professional-grade dive watches designed for serious underwater exploration. Meanwhile, the Royal collection brings a more polished side to Tudor, with integrated bracelets and refined dials that appeal to those seeking a touch of luxury.

Build Quality & Materials

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Black Dial 39mm on Leather Strap

Longines isn’t afraid to experiment with different techniques and materials. They primarily use 316L stainless steel for their collections, especially those in their Sports collection, since these watches need to be highly resistant to corrosion and impacts. 

That said, Longines confidently incorporates luxurious metals like 18-karat gold into many of their models, particularly their dress watches. The use of both yellow and rose gold, often in the form of solid cases or plating, adds a touch of luxury to their offerings.

 Longines has also made use of advanced ceramics, a material often found on their dive watches’ bezels. Ceramic is highly scratch-resistant, adding a layer of sophistication and resilience, especially for models meant for more rugged activities. 

Another common material in Longines’ material palette is titanium, a lightweight yet highly durable material that has found its place in popular models like the Spirit Titanium Automatic.

When it comes to finishing, Longines excels in delivering a predominantly polished aesthetic, particularly in their dress watches. Their polished surfaces reflect light beautifully, giving the watch a refined, high-shine look. In their sportier collections, like the Conquest and HydroConquest, Longines utilizes both polished and brushed finishes to maintain a balance of elegance and toughness.

Tudor takes a more utilitarian approach to watchmaking, focusing on rugged durability and function. The brand predominantly uses 316L stainless steel for its cases, offering the same corrosion resistance and impact resistance as Longines. 

However, Tudor’s use of stainless steel is often paired with brushed finishes, becoming something of a hallmark of their more tool-oriented designs. This technique gives their watches a distinctive, matte texture that complements their no-nonsense aesthetic, especially in collections like the Black Bay. 

In addition to stainless steel, Tudor has used bronze in some of its models, such as the Black Bay Bronze. Bronze has a unique ability to develop a patina over time, allowing each watch to acquire a personalized look. 

This material choice speaks to Tudor’s history of designing watches for adventurers and divers, with bronze being a classic material used in maritime equipment like ships’ propellers and diver’s helmets. 

Tudor has also embraced titanium in the Pelagos line and solid gold in select models like the Black Bay 18k Gold. However, Tudor’s use of gold is relatively minimal compared to other brands, as the focus remains on their core tool-watch ethos.

Movements

Since Longines is part of the Swiss Watch Group, the very same company that owns the famous ETA movement manufacturer, it makes sense that many of Longines’ watches are powered by ETA calibers.

These calibers are highly respected in the watchmaking industry and used by almost every watch manufacturer and their dog. They are well-known for their reliability, precision, and affordability. 

While they might not carry the same level of exclusivity as in-house calibers, they are incredibly well-engineered and have been tested in countless timepieces over the years.

Longines’ use of ETA movements enables the brand to offer exceptional value by keeping their prices more accessible without sacrificing quality or performance.

In fact, many Longines watches, particularly those in their Sport and Aviation collections, come with Chronometer-certified ETA movements, ensuring a high level of accuracy, just like Tudor’s offerings. 

For watch lovers who want a beautifully crafted Swiss timepiece at a more accessible price point, Longines’ use of ETA movements makes sense. 

These movements are incredibly reliable and widely recognized and have been used in numerous prestigious watches across different brands. This also means they have access to a wide number of complications, too, from moonphase and GMT to even complex perpetual calendars.

Tudor’s commitment to in-house movements is one of the defining aspects of the brand. Since its resurgence in 2012, Tudor has been moving away from off-the-shelf calibres and has focused on developing its own proprietary movements, made in partnership with Kenissi, a movement manufacturer co-owned by Tudor. By using these movements, Tudor can ensure that each piece is designed, crafted, and tested to meet their exacting standards. 

A key benefit of Tudor’s in-house movements is their Chronometer certification. For a movement to be Chronometer-certified, it must pass rigorous testing by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), ensuring it meets a high standard of accuracy, usually within -4 to +6 seconds per day. This level of precision is something that collectors and watch enthusiasts deeply appreciate, making Tudor watches a go-to for those who care about accuracy. 

Tudor is not stopping at Chronometer certification either. The brand is gradually moving towards Master Chronometer certification, which is an even more stringent level of testing, further elevating the precision of their watches.

This upgrade marks an exciting development for the brand and ensures that Tudor continues to push the envelope when it comes to technical excellence. 

But because they make their movements in-house, it does mean they are a little more limited to the different complications on offer, especially compared to Longines. Currently, Tudor only uses time-only, GMT and chronograph complications, with no overly complex mechanisms like perpetual calendar or moonphase in sight.

Price Point

When it comes to value for money, Longines delivers. The brand offers many timepieces at significantly lower price points than Tudor yet doesn’t skimp on quality. Take the Longines Spirit, for example. 

Priced around $2,500, it provides a similar look and feel to the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, but at a much more affordable price. Although Longines relies on ETA movements (which are reliable and well-established), you’re still getting a beautifully crafted Swiss watch at an excellent price.

Longines also has some higher-end pieces, like their solid gold Master Collection, which retail for around $15,000. That’s a far more accessible price than Tudor’s solid gold models, which can climb as high as $32,000. 

Tudor, on the other hand, carries a higher price tag, but there’s a good reason for it. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is one of the brand’s iconic models, retailing for around $4,500. 

What you’re paying for is the in-house movement, which is chronometer-certified for accuracy, and the company’s heritage linked with the legend of Rolex. It really depends on what you value and what you think is worth the money.

Conclusion 

Choosing between Longines and Tudor ultimately comes down to your personal preferences and what you value most in a watch. Longines offers a fantastic blend of heritage, affordability, and solid quality, making it an excellent choice for those seeking elegance and reliability at a great price.

On the other hand, Tudor brings in-house craftsmanship and precision to the table along with a more rugged, adventure-ready style. Honestly, both brands deliver exceptional value, and I’m certain that whichever you choose, you won’t be disappointed.

tudor vs breitling

Tudor vs Breitling: Battle Between two Luxury Watch Icons

Charlotte H

March 6, 2025

With so many impressive watch brands out there, it’s not always easy to know where to start. They all offer something different: different designs, materials, technologies, and totally different price points. But of course, there are some names that stick out more than others, and two of the biggest ones in my eyes are Tudor and Breitling.

These two luxury brands are known all over the world, and yet they’re also worlds apart in what they offer and the people they attract. Tudor, with its understated charm and rich heritage, is famously tied to Rolex and focuses on timeless design and accessible luxury. 

Breitling, on the other hand, exudes boldness and adventure and is known for its robust pilot and dive watches that are as functional as they are stylish. Different strokes for different folks, right?

That doesn’t mean one’s better than the other. It all boils down to what you’re looking for in a timepiece. In this blog, we’re going to be looking into both brands to help you figure it all out.

From their fascinating histories to their current collections, movements, and design DNA, I’ll break it all down for you. By the end, you’ll have a clearer picture of which brand aligns with your taste, lifestyle, and budget.

Brand Heritage

Tudor Black Bay 54

For Breitling, we need to go back quite far to 1884. Here, in a small Swiss town called Saint-Imier, a young watchmaker named Léon Breitling opened a modest workshop. 

He began building watches with a focus on precision, innovation, and elegance, and even early on, the company became known for pushing boundaries. Léon’s passion for accuracy and his inventive mindset laid the foundation for a brand that would become a giant in the world of horology. 

Breitling started out specializing in chronographs, tools that went beyond simply telling the time. These early creations played crucial roles in industries like science and engineering and helped make Breitling synonymous with precision. The brand’s commitment to excellence caught on quickly, and it didn’t take long for its reputation to spread far beyond the Alps. 

As aviation took off, literally and figuratively, Breitling became the go-to name for pilots needing accurate, reliable timepieces. In 1915, they introduced one of the first wrist-worn chronographs designed for aviators, and in 1952, the iconic Navitimer was born. 

With its slide rule bezel for in-flight calculations, it became an indispensable cockpit tool, earning its place as one of the most legendary pilot’s watches in the watchmaking world.

But Breitling didn’t stop at aviation. In 1957, they dove into the deep blue with the launch of the SuperOcean, a rugged, water-resistant instrument for divers.

Later decades brought even more innovations, like the Emergency watch in 1995, featuring a built-in distress beacon, and the Chronomat, a luxury sports watch for those who wanted beauty and durability. 

Today, Breitling stands as a symbol of innovation and adventurous spirit. Its collections, from the aviation-inspired Navitimer to the ocean-ready SuperOcean and the versatile Chronomat, reflect a brand deeply rooted in history while embracing modernity.

Established in 1926, Tudor’s story is intricately tied to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex. From its inception, Tudor was designed to echo Rolex’s renowned quality and reliability while being accessible to a broader audience. This duality—luxury craftsmanship at an attainable price—became the bedrock of Tudor’s identity. 

Tudor’s origins trace back to the Swiss watchmaking house of Veuve de Philippe Hüther, which registered the name “Tudor” on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf. Wilsdorf, inspired by his English heritage, chose the Tudor name as a tribute to the Tudor period in England, a time synonymous with strength and refinement. 

Tudor’s first wristwatches, launched in 1932, were simple yet resilient. These timepieces bore a clear emphasis on durability and legibility, featuring cream-colored dials, luminescent Arabic numerals, and blue baton hands. By 1946, Tudor had evolved into Montres TUDOR S.A., with Rolex’s backing for movement precision and distribution. 

The Tudor Oyster, released in 1947, remains one of the brand’s most iconic launches. It borrowed Rolex’s patented waterproof Oyster case as proof of their commitment to robust engineering.

The Oyster Prince followed in 1952, combining reliability with an elegant three-link bracelet, further solidifying Tudor’s appeal as a tool watch for professionals and adventurers. 

The 1960s saw Tudor perfect its design language with the introduction of the legendary “Snowflake” hands and square hour markers. Initially developed for the French Marine Nationale, these features prioritized underwater visibility and became a hallmark of Tudor’s dive watches. 

While Tudor’s popularity waned slightly during the quartz crisis of the 1980s and 1990s, the 21st century marked a dramatic resurgence. Tudor returned to its roots, embracing its legacy of robust tool watches while incorporating modern aesthetics and technology. 

For example, the Black Bay collection, launched in 2012, epitomizes this renaissance, offering modern features, in-house movements, and 200-meter water-resistant cases for the contemporary diver. Today, you also have models like the Pelagos and Ranger embodying Tudor’s ethos of timeless design rooted in history.

Model Variety

Breitling History

Breitling excels in offering something for everyone, with an impressive range of watches designed for various wrist sizes, preferences, and lifestyles. From the petite 28mm Chronomats to the bold 48mm Super Avengers, Breitling ensures that every wrist, no matter how large or small, can find its perfect fit. 

Breitling’s portfolio spans dress watches, pilot’s watches, dive watches, and even vintage-inspired designs. The Navitimer is arguably Breitling’s most recognizable model, embodying the brand’s strong aviation heritage. 

Since its debut in 1952, this iconic pilot’s watch has been a reliable tool for mid-flight calculations, thanks to its distinctive slide-rule bezel. Over the years, the Navitimer has evolved with modern twists but remains a symbol of precision and practicality.

For diving enthusiasts, Breitling’s SuperOcean collection is a standout. Introduced in 1957, it offers water-resistant durability, luminescent hands, and rugged construction suitable for both professional divers and recreational underwater adventures. The retro-inspired SuperOcean Heritage, launched in 2007, adds a sporty yet nostalgic touch to the lineup.

Breitling’s Chronomat collection is a personal favorite of mine and offers versatility with its functional chronograph complications and integrated Rouleaux bracelets, giving it a distinct flair. This line is particularly popular with women thanks to the many pastel-coloured and diamond-set dials adding an element of sophistication. 

Tudor, while less expensive than Breitling, has a focused collection that emphasizes quality over quantity. Their offerings are slightly smaller in scale, with models ranging from 31mm to 43mm, but the brand makes up for it with an emphasis on craftsmanship and purpose-driven design.

At the heart of Tudor’s lineup is the iconic Black Bay collection, a series of diving and tool watches that encapsulate the brand’s expertise in robust and legible timepieces. 

The Black Bay’s roots trace back to Tudor’s first diver’s watch in 1954, and its legacy is evident in features like the signature snowflake hands. From standard Black Bay divers with 200-meter water resistance to the Pelagos models boasting an impressive 500m, Tudor’s commitment to the diving community is clear.

For those seeking a more refined aesthetic, Tudor offers the Royal collection, which bridges the gap between sporty and luxurious. With integrated bracelets, diamond indices, and sizes ranging from a dainty 28mm to a commanding 41mm, the Royal is a versatile option for both men and women.

Tudor hasn’t forgotten about its female clientele either. The Clair de Rose collection, introduced in 2017, is a line of steel automatic watches that exude feminine charm. 

For adventurers, the Ranger and compact Pelagos 39 cater to those who appreciate rugged performance in smaller, versatile packages.

The Pelagos 39, for instance, reimagines Tudor’s dive watch heritage with a sleeker design and updated movement, making it ideal for those who want understated sophistication.

Design

Breitling Watches 2

Breitling’s design DNA is deeply rooted in adventure, precision, and functionality. From the beginning, the brand has been a pioneer in producing watches that serve a practical purpose, and this focus has remained central throughout its history. 

Whether it’s for pilots, divers, or extreme adventurers, Breitling’s watches are designed to withstand the harshest conditions while maintaining cutting-edge style.

Breitling’s designs are bold, often oversized, and purpose-built, making them instantly recognizable. The brand is particularly famous for its aviation-inspired designs, like the iconic Navitimer with its slide-rule bezel. 

Breitling’s watches are known for their large, legible dials, prominent bezels, and functional complications that cater to professionals, such as chronographs, GMTs, and tachymeters.

The Chronomat collection, for instance, exemplifies Breitling’s innovative design with its rider tabs on the bezel and integrated bracelets that balance robustness with elegance.

Meanwhile, Tudor’s design is more of a reflection of its deep-rooted history and heritage, with its designs often paying homage to iconic Rolex models like the Submariner. 

They are famed for their tool-watch pedigree, and like its sibling brand Rolex, the designs strike a balance between luxury and durability. They’re also versatile and functional, often made with military, diving, and adventure enthusiasts in mind, but always with an emphasis on quality craftsmanship and timeless style.

Tudor’s Black Bay collection, for example, exemplifies this blend of ruggedness and heritage. The Black Bay’s design is inspired by vintage Tudor dive watches, especially the submariner-style cases and rotatable bezels reminiscent of models from the 1950s. 

But Tudor also introduced its Snowflake hands in the Black Bay collection, a distinct design element that sets it apart from its competitors, evoking a sense of utilitarian elegance.

The Snowflake hands are a direct nod to the brand’s military and diving roots, offering better legibility underwater, a signature feature that speaks to Tudor’s functional design philosophy.

Build Quality & Materials

Breitling has long been at the forefront of innovation when it comes to the materials used in their timepieces, making sure that each watch balances durability, aesthetics, and functionality.

Their case materials showcase a commitment to both strength and sophistication. Stainless steel is the backbone of many of their collections, but Breitling has expanded its use of premium alloys to include gold, titanium, and even ceramic for specific models.

This ensures their timepieces are not only visually striking but can endure the rigorous demands of adventure, aviation, and diving.

One of Breitling’s standout material innovations is Breitlight. This patented material is a unique, lightweight composite that is stronger than titanium and much lighter than steel, providing impressive resistance to scratches, corrosion, and extreme temperatures. 

The result is a timepiece that feels significantly lighter on the wrist while remaining highly durable. Breitlight also has a distinctive matte finish and a darker, almost “stealthy” look, which contributes to the brand’s modern aesthetic.

When it comes to finishes, Breitling’s attention to detail is evident in the intricate polishing and brushing of their cases. Their dials are also beautifully finished, often made from brass plates, which are drilled and then polished or lacquered to achieve a specific color and depth.

Tudor’s approach to materials and build quality is centered around affordability without sacrificing luxury. One of the most popular materials that Tudor uses is 316L stainless steel, a standard in the watch industry for its resistance to corrosion, scratch resistance, and ability to hold finishes over time.

However, Tudor doesn’t shy away from pushing boundaries. The Black Bay 58 18K is a perfect example of this, as it’s the first Tudor diver’s watch to feature solid 18-carat yellow gold.

Additionally, Tudor has ventured into titanium and ceramic for select models, offering a range of materials that cater to those looking for high-end aesthetics with practical functionality.

Tudor also places significant emphasis on finishing, ensuring their watches are both refined and resilient. The brand often utilizes a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, with an emphasis on creating a visually dynamic and tactile feel.

The sunray brushed finish, commonly found on the Black Bay’s dials, catches the light in an appealing way, while the matte dials add a modern, understated touch.

Movements 

Breitling’s commitment to in-house movement production is a cornerstone of the brand’s identity, offering COSC-certified chronometers across their entire collection. One of Breitling’s best-known movements is the B01, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve and chronograph complication.

Breitling also demonstrates an impressive ability to push the boundaries of horology with haute horlogerie complications, such as perpetual calendars and split-second chronographs, though these are rare and often featured in limited-edition models.

We also have to mention Breitling’s famous SuperQuartz movement, another in-house caliber that is quartz-powered and claims to be ten times more accurate than ordinary quartz.

In terms of movement finishing, Breitling showcases the technical complexity of its calibers with the use of perlage and Côtes de Genève stripes. These finishing touches are not just for aesthetic appeal, but they signify the attention to detail and precision that Breitling is known for.

Tudor’s approach to movements is rooted in simplicity and reliability. While Tudor may not offer the same level of technical complexity as Breitling, they excel in providing robust and reliable movements that serve the needs of their customers.

The brand’s focus remains on time-only and chronograph complications but ones that are still chronometer-certified for reliability.

The MT5612 movement found in many of Tudor’s models, such as the Black Bay, is a solid choice, offering a 70-hour power reserve. Similarly, the MT5813 chronograph movement provides a smooth and precise chronograph function, adding a dash of functionality to Tudor’s classic designs.

While Tudor’s movement finishing may not be as elaborate as Breitling’s, the brand does incorporate finishing elements like brushed surfaces and Côtes de Genève on some models.

The movement’s finishing is more modest, reflecting the brand’s focus on offering high-quality, durable watches at an accessible price point without overemphasizing ornate details.

Price Point 

Breitling’s price range starts at around $3,500 and can rise to $45,000 for high-end models, reflecting the brand’s focus on luxury and prestige.

Their pricing is justified by the use of premium materials like titanium, gold, and Breitlight, alongside in-house movements and sophisticated complications like perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs.

Breitling offers exceptional technical innovation and craftsmanship, making their timepieces highly desirable for collectors who want not just a watch but a statement. Their high-end models cater to those seeking exclusivity and prestige in addition to robust functionality, particularly in aviation and diving.

Tudor, renowned for being the king of affordable luxury, offers exceptional value, with prices starting around £2,500 for models like the 1926 and Royal and going up to $9,000 for more premium options with diamond decorations or 18ct gold elements.

Tudor delivers Swiss-made quality, in-house movements, and timeless design at a fraction of the cost of luxury counterparts. While their materials are more conventional, like stainless steel and titanium, they offer incredible value for money, making Swiss precision and affordable luxury accessible.

Conclusion

Both Tudor and Breitling offer exceptional timepieces, but it’s clear they cater to different tastes and budgets. Tudor is perfect for those seeking affordable luxury, delivering Swiss craftsmanship and reliable performance at a more accessible price.

On the other hand, Breitling is ideal for collectors looking for premium materials, advanced complications, and a luxury experience with more opulent designs. It ultimately comes down to personal preference and budget: Tudor offers great value, while Breitling delivers prestige and sophistication.

christopher ward watches review

Christopher Ward Watches Review – From England With Love

Charlotte H

March 4, 2025

As a British watch collector, I’ve always had a soft spot for homegrown horological talent. There’s just something special about rooting for brands that are close to home, especially when the global watchmaking heavyweights from Switzerland and Germany tend to dominate the scene.

Don’t get me wrong, I love a good Swiss watch as much as the next collector, but there’s a unique thrill in seeing a British brand carve out its place in a saturated industry.

That’s exactly why Christopher Ward has been on my radar for years. Back in the day, they were the definition of a microbrand.

They started as a relatively small team that was just excited to be making watches on British soil. But that did mean very few of my international watch-collecting friends had ever heard of them.

But it’s safe to say that’s now all changed. Today, Christopher Ward is no longer a secret, especially since winning the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) with their stunning C1 Bel Canto and releasing affordable designs like The Twelve and Sealander.

They’ve gone global in a big way. But, if you’re still unfamiliar with the name or just curious to know more, I’m excited to take you through everything there is to know about Christopher Ward.

I’ll be looking back at their humble beginnings to the current collections and discussing whether a Christopher Ward watch is right for your wrist.

History of Christopher Ward Watches 

christopher ward review

Back in 2004, three friends—Mike France, Peter Ellis, and Chris Ward—were floating down the Thames, brainstorming ideas for their next venture.

They’d just left their previous gigs and decided it was time to create something new. Watches, it turns out, was a shared passion and was a world they believed they could actually break into, despite the mass of popular brands already out there. 

At the time, Swiss luxury brands dominated the market with astronomical markups and heavily marketed prestige. So Mike, Peter, and Chris saw an opportunity to shake things up. 

They envisioned a watch brand that skipped the glitzy marketing and sold directly to customers online, making high-quality timepieces that didn’t break the bank. And so, from a humble chicken shed in Berkshire, the Christopher Ward brand was born.

Their first two watches, the C5 Malvern Automatic and the C3 Malvern Chronograph, were launched in 2005. The startup had no physical storefront and instead relied on a single ad in The Independent newspaper and their fledgling website.

Sales were slow at first, but after a review mentioned their C5 and described it as the “best-value mechanical watch in the world”, all of a sudden, the little British watch brand was on the map. 

By 2008, Christopher Ward had partnered with Swiss watchmakers Synergies Horlogères, giving them access to bespoke craftsmanship and expertise. 

This collaboration led to innovations like the JJ Calibres and, in 2014, the game-changing Calibre SH21, a 5-day power reserve movement. It was the first commercially viable in-house movement from a British watch brand in over 50 years, cementing Christopher Ward as a real disruptor. 

Fast forward to today, and Christopher Ward has transformed into a global name in watchmaking. Their headquarters in Maidenhead, UK, and manufacture in Biel, Switzerland, ensure the perfect blend of British design and Swiss precision. 

The brand has grown its catalog to include collections like the C60 Trident, Aquitaine, and Sealander, appealing to everyone from first-time buyers to seasoned collectors. 

They’ve also evolved their branding, ditching the full “Christopher Ward” text on dials in favor of the sleek twin-flags logo. This change wasn’t just cosmetic but was also designed to represent the dual British-Swiss heritage. 

The real tipping point for Christopher Ward, though, at least in my eyes, was when they won the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award for their C1 Bel Canto.

This innovative chiming watch is remarkably affordable, considering it houses a chiming complication and remains one of the British watchmaker’s most coveted designs. 

And with other models like The Twelve and C1 Moonphase more recently hitting virtual shelves, Christopher Ward has made it clear they’ve outgrown their microbrand roots.

Popular Christopher Ward Collections

Bel Canto 

Christopher Ward Bel Canto

As I hopefully made clear in the introduction, the Christopher Ward Bel Canto remains the brand’s most transformative piece that catapulted the British watchmaker into the limelight. 

Powered by the innovative FS01 module atop the reliable Sellita SW200-1 movement, it produces an hourly chime. This alone is a rare sight in watches, but especially at a price point of $4,000. 

Housed in lightweight Grade 5 titanium, the watch is both durable and elegant, with a 41mm case that’s been masterfully sculpted to reduce visual heft.

This balance of design ensures a comfortable, unobtrusive wrist presence. Its centrepiece, though is the vibrant sunburst dial that rivals even those on high-end luxury timepieces.

It’s visually captivating without being overly complicated, with a symmetrical dial-side chime mechanism and polished, chamfered details. 

The Twelve

Christopher Ward The Twelve

Christopher Ward’s The Twelve collection is a personal favorite of mine and a watch I’ve owned for a little over a year now. It’s one of the few affordable integrated sports watches on the market available in both 40mm and 36mm and in steel or titanium. 

Its most defining feature, and the very thing it’s named after, is the bezel. It has twelve sides and is meticulously triple-finished for depth and dimension. 

Dial textures vary across models, from glacier blue to nebula purple, each adorned with Christopher Ward’s signature cross-flag pattern.

The steel models house the Sellita SW200 movement, while the titanium models feature a thinner, chronometer-certified SW300, reflecting thoughtful tiered offerings. 

With a starting price of $995, The Twelve bridges the gap between haute horology and everyday luxury, making it a formidable contender for anyone wanting an integrated sports watch that doesn’t have the price tag of a Royal Oak or Nautilus. 

Trident

Christopher Ward Trident

The Trident is Christopher Ward’s flagship dive watch, offering a balance of performance, style, and value. Among the standout models is the C60 Trident Pro 300, a reimagined classic designed for everyday versatility. 

Slimmer and lighter than previous iterations, it features a two-part unidirectional ceramic bezel that delivers a precise, satisfying click. It’s also available in a range of sizes, including 38mm, 40mm, and 42mm, and four dynamic color options. 

Another highlight is the C60 Trident Lumière, a more recent release that takes luminosity to the next level. Constructed from Grade 2 titanium, the case and bracelet exhibit a darker, more refined finish than traditional stainless steel, while the gradient dial features a new patented material Christopher Ward calls Globolight on the hour markers. These are ceramic blocks infused with Super-LumiNova that create a striking 3D effect, perfect for underwater legibility. 

C1 Moonphase 

Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase

Another Christopher Ward watch many of you will likely be familiar with is their C1 Moonphase. This collection is inspired by the night sky’s celestial beauty, showcasing an aventurine dial crafted from aventurine glass infused with copper oxide. 

The result is a display that sparkles like a starry night sky. The most notable part of the dial, though is the moon. Fashioned from Globolight, a ceramic and Super-LumiNova blend, the moon offers a breathtakingly accurate three-dimensional representation of the moon’s surface. 

The C1 Moonphase is powered by Calibre JJ04, an in-house modular movement that links the moonphase to the hour hand for a seamless, perpetually moving display of lunar phases. 

Remarkably accurate, it promises to track the moon’s journey for 128 years as long as you keep it wound. The rest of the watch has a beautiful minimalist approach, with the aventurine dial stripped of markers, indexes, and even the logo, allowing the moon and starry backdrop to take centre stage. 

C63 Sealander

The C63 Sealander Collection is Christopher Ward’s answer to the call for a versatile, go-anywhere, do-everything sports watch.

With a sleek design rooted in English aesthetics and Swiss engineering, these watches are crafted from marine-grade stainless steel and feature shimmering sunray dials at the center. 

With options in 36mm and 39mm, the ergonomically designed Light-catcher case fits snugly on the wrist, combining brushed and polished surfaces that play beautifully with the light (hence the name). 

Turn the watch over, and the exhibition case back reveals the intricate workings of the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement.

And for those who travel regularly, you’ll likely appreciate the C63 Sealander GMT, which adds an additional time zone hopping complication so you can stay connected to multiple time zones at once. 

Super Compressor

Christopher Ward Super Compressor

Finally, a Christopher Ward watch that doesn’t get mentioned enough is the C65 Super Compressor. As a genuine super compressor watch, it features a unique mechanism that uses water pressure to enhance its seal, a hallmark of Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA) cases from the 1950s. T

heir latest design in the series is their “Elite” version, which reimages their original with even better functionality. 

At the heart of the C65 Super Compressor Elite is a COSC-certified version of the Sellita SW300-1 automatic caliber, placing it among the top six percent of Swiss mechanical movements for accuracy. 

This precision is complemented by the decompression scale on the dial, box-shaped sapphire crystal glass and a sturdy 41mm cushion-shaped Light-catcher.

There are also twin crowns, one for controlling the internal rotating bezel and another for changing the time, both screwed in to ensure the 150-meter water resistance.

What Makes Christopher Ward Watches Stand Out? 

When it comes to finding a watch that truly stands out, Christopher Ward has carved a niche that’s hard to ignore. As a fellow British watch enthusiast, I’ve always admired their approach to watchmaking.

They’re not just another brand in the sea of options but a small, independent British watchmaker that genuinely cares about quality and innovation. This makes their timepieces especially appealing to those of us who appreciate the finer details of horology. 

One of the biggest things that set Christopher Ward apart is their use of in-house movements and materials.

While many of their movements are based on tried-and-true Swiss workhorses, Christopher Ward takes it a step further by integrating their own patented technologies like that seen in the Bel Canto or the C1 Moonphase.

Their Light Catcher case is another example and having worn several Christopher Ward watches with this design feature, I can confirm it has a beautiful, flowing architecture that enhances aesthetic appeal and wearability.

Quality is another cornerstone of Christopher Ward’s philosophy. They don’t compromise when it comes to materials or craftsmanship.

Whether it’s the Grade 5 titanium in the Bel Canto or the aventurine glass in the Moonphase collection, every component is meticulously chosen and expertly crafted.

And speaking of complications, their Bel Canto and Moonphase models are perfect examples of how they bring high-end features to insanely affordable prices. 

To put it into perspective, the Bel Canto retails for just over $4,000, while a similar chiming watch from a brand like A. Lange & Söhne, such as the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, can set you back over $450,000. That’s more than 100 times the price. But Christopher Ward isn’t cutting corners, they’re instead reimagining accessibility without sacrificing quality. 

Christopher Ward is also known for their direct-to-consumer approach. They choose to bypass traditional retail models so they can bring high-quality timepieces available to a wider audience.

It’s a clever way to challenge the status quo and bring back transparency in watchmaking. In an industry often shrouded in mystery, Christopher Ward pulls back the curtain and instead shares insights into their manufacturing processes, material sourcing, and the true costs involved in creating each watch. This level of openness builds trust and makes you feel like you are part of their journey, not just a customer.

Should you get a Christopher Ward Watch?

Deciding whether to invest in a Christopher Ward watch depends on what you’re looking for in a timepiece and where your priorities lie. As I’ve hopefully explained, this British watchmaker has done a great job at balancing quality, innovation, and affordability so honestly, there’s a good chance you’ll find something to suit your needs.

In particular, Christopher Ward caters to those who appreciate independent brands and value both design and function.

If you’re someone who admires the craftsmanship of luxury timepieces but finds their prices daunting, Christopher Ward offers an excellent alternative. They’re perfect for enthusiasts who want high-quality materials, innovative features, and Swiss-made movements without paying a luxury premium. 

Their appeal also extends to people who enjoy technical ingenuity. The brand is renowned for creating affordable watches with complications that would typically come with astronomical price tags. Not to bring up their Bel Canto again, but a chiming watch that retails for just over $4,000 is unheard of. It delivers a complication so rare that its closest competitors cost thousands more. 

Of course, while Christopher Ward offers a lot, they may not be the right fit for everyone. Traditionalists who seek a storied heritage or brand prestige might lean toward household names like Rolex, Omega, or Patek Philippe.

Christopher Ward, being a relatively new and independent British brand, doesn’t carry the same legacy or cultural cachet. If owning a watch from a brand with centuries of history is important to you, this might be a dealbreaker. 

But if it was me, I wouldn’t hesitate to choose a Christopher Ward for my collection. In fact, I have several, and I’m currently wearing my The Twelve 36 while writing this article.

Their watches have yet to let me down, and I’ve found them to be an excellent choice if you want that luxury feel without the luxury price tag. They also have a wide range of styles, case sizes, complications, and dial colors to choose from, so you’re guaranteed to find something to suit your taste. 

Conclusion 

It might have taken twenty or so years to have heard of their name, but I truly believe Christopher Ward to be a watchmaker worth keeping an eye on. From their humble beginnings in a chicken shed to winning international acclaim, they’ve proven that luxury doesn’t have to come with a six-figure price tag. 

This is a brand for those who value quality and innovation over flashy logos, who appreciate transparency in a traditionally secretive industry, and who want a watch that tells a story as much as it tells the time. Their ability to combine cutting-edge complications with affordable pricing is difficult to compete with and they are a watchmaker I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend to you, or anyone else. 

So, should you get a Christopher Ward watch? If you’re ready to embrace independent and affordable watchmaking at its finest, the answer is a resounding yes.

sarb017 vs spb121

Seiko SARB017 vs SPB121: Which is the Superior Alpinist?

Charlotte H

March 2, 2025

If you’re a Seiko fan or even just a casual watch lover, chances are you’ve heard of the Seiko Alpinist. This also means you’ve probably heard of, or at least seen in passing, either the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 or SPB121. With their green dials, golden accents, and signature internal compass bezels, these two models have become, for many collectors, the flagship Alpinist. 

But yes, these are two gateway watches that look almost identical. They are two very similar versions of the Alpinist, so understandably, many of us struggle to comprehend the differences between them, which makes it hard to pick between the two when it comes to purchasing one for our own wrists. 

But alas, there are a few differences to note. While the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 is the oldest of the two, and now sadly discontinued, the SPB121 is still holding strong in Seiko’s lineup.

You might have also spotted a few tweaks to the case dimensions, movement, and case back décor. These might not seem like big differences, but as any watch collector will argue, these small details can make all the difference. 

So, to help you decide between the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 and SPB121, let’s take a look at what each of these watches have to offer.

Why the Seiko Alpinist in the First Place? 

Seiko is probably best known for their diving watches, otherwise known as the Prospex collection, or their luxury sister company Grand Seiko. However, another family considered a big deal, especially with collectors who appreciate retro design, is the Seiko Alpinist. 

It’s a watch that debuted in 1961 and made history as Seiko’s first-ever “sports watch.” It was designed to be a rugged, reliable timepiece that could withstand the harsh conditions faced by mountain climbers in Japan. It had to be tough, legible, and ready to handle the great outdoors. 

The original Alpinist, named the Seiko Laurel, was a true milestone for the brand. It featured the now-iconic arrow markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9, and was available in black and cream dials. In the watch-collecting world, these inaugural versions are considered the holy grails of Alpinists. 

Fast forward to today, and the Alpinist has evolved into one of Seiko’s most beloved models. Its popularity skyrocketed with the release of the SARB017 (yes, one of the models we’re looking at today), which became a collector’s favorite before it was discontinued. 

Other modern-day models like the Baby Alpinist have also proved the collection’s popularity. Truthfully, the Alpinist, in all its forms, deserves a place in any collector’s watch box, but as I’m sure you’ve realized by now, the Seiko SARB017 and SPB121 are two of the most coveted – and for good reason.

The Seiko SARB017

Seiko SARB017 Alpinist

Aside from the Seiko Laurel, the Alpinist SARB017 might just be one of the most important designs to join the explorer-inspired line-up. Released in 2006 as part of the brand’s SARB series, this model represented the fifth generation of the Alpinist. 

Its release came at the perfect time when the watch enthusiast community was beginning to grow, and the SARB017 quickly became a favorite of collectors worldwide. 

One of the most notable features of the SARB017 is its stunning sunburst emerald green dial. This striking color, complemented by gold-plated Arabic numerals and dagger-shaped hour markers, gave the watch a distinct and refined look that set it apart from other models. 

The gold accents paired beautifully with the brown alligator-textured leather strap, creating a watch that was both rugged and elegant. The dial also features elegant cathedral-style hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. 

Another notable feature of the SARB017 was its internal rotating compass bezel. This unique feature, combined with the watch’s legible dial and durable 38mm stainless steel case, made it a versatile piece that could easily transition from outdoor adventures to more formal settings. 

The rotating bezel, which could be adjusted with a second crown at 4 o’clock, gave the watch a functional yet subtle flair, tucking neatly into the design without overwhelming it.

The design also boasted the brand’s in-house Caliber 6R15 mechanical movement, which offered an impressive 23 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. 

Although the SARB017 was initially a Japan Domestic Model (JDM) release, making it difficult to find outside Japan, its allure only grew as word spread.

The SARB017 became a sought-after “forbidden fruit” for collectors around the world. Its limited availability, combined with its stunning design and functionality, created a sense of exclusivity that fuelled its growing demand.

The Seiko SPB121

Seiko SPB121 Alpinist

For the newer Seiko Alpinist SPB121, I almost think of this novelty as a love letter to the SARB017. It’s clearly designed with the same core appeal but updated with a few thoughtful tweaks.

Seiko recognized the SARB017’s massive fanbase and how coveted it became after its discontinuation, so they essentially took everything collectors loved about the Alpinist and gave it a modern refresh. 

The green sunburst dial is back, just as striking as before, along with the signature gold-plated hour markers and hands that give the watch its distinct character. The rotating internal bezel also makes a return, as does the classic brown leather strap, making the SPB121 feel like an evolution of the iconic SARB017.

While the design closely mirrors its predecessor, there are some key changes that make the SPB121 a little different. For one, the case has grown ever so slightly, from 38mm to 39.5mm, making it feel a bit more substantial on the wrist. 

The thickness has also increased from 12mm to 13.2mm, adding a more solid presence, which further adds to the Alpinist’s rugged elegance.

Another noticeable upgrade is the exhibition case back, giving owners a clear view of the new movement inside Seiko’s in-house Calibre 6R35. This movement offers a substantial boost in power reserve, now clocking in at 70 hours compared to the 6R15’s 50-hour reserve. 

There are also some other subtle tweaks on the dial, like the slightly redesigned dial text and the reintroduction of the cyclops date magnifier. The Prospex “X” logo replaces the previous Diashock branding to mark the model’s new home in Seiko’s dive watch line. 

Despite these upgrades, the SPB121 maintains the soul of the SARB017, offering collectors the same style and functionality that made the original such a hit. Of course, these enhancements come with a slightly higher price tag. The newest model retails for around $725 new, compared to the $700 launch price of the SARB017. 

However, considering that the SARB017 now regularly fetches upwards of $1,000 on the second-hand market, the SPB121 represents a more accessible way to get your hands on a modern Alpinist, while still enjoying all the nostalgic charm of the original.

Seiko SARB017 vs SPB121 – How to Choose 

When deciding between the Seiko SARB017 and the Seiko SPB121, there are a few important factors to consider that will help you determine which model suits you best. Both watches share a common heritage, with the SPB121 being a direct successor to the SARB017, but there are enough differences to make each model unique, and appealing to different types of collectors. 

The Case Size and Fit 

One of the first things you’ll notice when comparing the two watches is their size. The Seiko SARB017 comes with a 38mm case diameter, while the SPB121 is slightly larger at 39.5mm. 

For those with smaller wrists, or those who simply prefer a more compact watch, the SARB017’s 38mm case might be the better fit. It’s a classic size that maintains the Alpinist’s rugged yet elegant look without feeling too bulky. Additionally, the SARB017’s slimmer 12mm thickness makes it comfortable and unobtrusive on the wrist. 

On the other hand, if you have larger wrists or prefer a more substantial watch, the SPB121 might be a better choice. The 39.5mm case diameter, coupled with the slightly increased thickness of 13.2mm, gives the SPB121 a more robust presence. The larger case size also makes the SPB121 a bit more modern in feel, while still retaining the Alpinist’s charm. 

Movement and Power Reserve 

Another significant difference between these two watches is their movements. The SARB017 uses Seiko’s 6R15 automatic movement, which has been a reliable and well-loved workhorse in the world of affordable mechanical watches. 

However, the movement offers a power reserve of 50 hours, which is great for daily wear but might fall short if you’re someone who tends to rotate watches over the weekend and leave one off for a few days at a time. 

The SPB121, on the other hand, is powered by the newer Seiko 6R35 movement. This movement offers a notable improvement with a 70-hour power reserve, meaning that it can last through an entire weekend without needing to be wound. 

For those who like to take a break from wearing their watch on the weekends and don’t want to worry about winding it up again, this increased power reserve is a clear advantage. Plus, the SPB121’s 6R35 movement is slightly more refined and updated compared to the 6R15, making it an attractive choice for those seeking a more modern technical upgrade. 

Additionally, the SPB121 comes with an exhibition case back, which allows you to admire the movement in all its mechanical glory. This is a welcome touch for many watch wearers who appreciate seeing the inner workings of their timepieces. 

The SARB017, however, keeps things more classic with a solid stainless steel case back that features the Alpinist logo. While it may not have the same “show-off” quality as the SPB121, the SARB017’s case back is part of its vintage charm and speaks to the history and heritage of the model. 

Dial Design 

When it comes to the dial, the SPB121 stays remarkably true to the SARB017’s iconic green sunburst dial. The color remains the same, with the gold-plated hour markers and hands that give the watch its distinct character. 

However, there are some refinements in the SPB121, including a cleaner dial with less text and the reintroduction of the cyclops date magnifier at 3 o’clock, which gives the dial a slightly more contemporary look. 

The SARB017, on the other hand, has the original Alpinist logo and a slightly more vintage feel with its classic design and cluttered dial text.

Much of this is down to the lettering detailing its Diashock movement. It might not be an important thing to denote for some of you, but it does give it that nostalgic allure that the SPB121, despite its many strengths, can’t quite replicate. 

Which One Is Right for You? 

If you’re after a more modern take on the classic Alpinist, the SPB121 is likely the better choice. With its larger case, upgraded movement, exhibition case back, and improved power reserve, it offers a more contemporary experience without straying too far from the original design that made the SARB017 so beloved. 

However, if you’re someone who appreciates the vintage feel and charm of the original Alpinist, the SARB017 is going to appeal more. It’s more compact, offers a classic design, and carries with it the weight of Seiko’s rich history. 

If you already own the SARB017, you might also be asking if upgrading to the SPB121 is worth it. For myself, and I’m sure many others, too, the answer is no.  While the SPB121 does bring some meaningful improvements, the SARB017 still offers incredible value and remains a classic in its own right.

Conclusion

In the end, choosing between the Seiko SARB017 and the SPB121 comes down to your personal preferences.

If you’re after a more substantial, modern watch with a longer power reserve, a slightly larger case, and a refined design, the SPB121 is the way to go. However, if you’re drawn to Seiko’s rich history, a more compact size, and vintage-inspired look, the SARB017 will be your favorite. 

Honestly, though, you can’t go wrong with either model. Both watches offer outstanding storytelling, impressive technology, and exceptional design at a great price.

So whether you leave here to shop a pre-owned SARB017 on the second-hand market or go for a brand-new SPB121 from your local authorized Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces, I promise you won’t be disappointed with your choice.

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