Charlotte H, Author at Exquisite Timepieces
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Author: Charlotte H

Today, we’re talking about Mathey-Tissot and Tissot. Now, depending on how deep you are into the world of horology, you might know one, neither, or both. But if you’ve ever wondered if Mathey-Tissot and Tissot are the same brands, then don’t worry, you are not alone. 

We’ve all confused watch brands or even timepiece-related terminologies at least once in our watch-collecting careers (yes, I mixed up chronometer and chronograph once upon a time). And equally, the question of whether Mathey-Tissot and Tissot are the same watch brand is another common question. 

First of all, let me clear that up right now: nope, they’re not. Sure, they both have “Tissot” in their name, and you might even argue that a few of their designs can make you do a double-take. 

However, these two are entirely separate Swiss watch manufacturers, each with their own unique history, innovations, and style. In today’s post, we’re diving into the world of these two brands, including where they came from, what makes them tick, and how their modern-day collections stack up.

The Mathey-Tissot Brand 

Mathey-Tissot is a name that might ring a bell, but that could well be because it’s so often confused with the more globally recognized Tissot. But as I said in the introduction, these are two entirely different entities. 

While Tissot is something of a titan in the watch industry, Mathey-Tissot has quietly carved out its own niche, appealing to collectors and enthusiasts who value heritage and affordable design. 

Founded in 1886 in the village of Les Ponts-de-Martel in Switzerland, Mathey-Tissot built its reputation on precision timekeeping and traditional craftsmanship. 

Though not as widely known, this independent brand has earned respect for its quality and affordability. From its origins in repeater pocket watches to supplying the U.S. Army during WWI, Mathey-Tissot has become a brand defined by resilience and adaptability.

History of Mathey-Tissot 

The story of Mathey-Tissot begins in the late 19th century in the picturesque Swiss Jura Mountains. Edmond Mathey-Tissot, a skilled local watchmaker, established the brand in 1886 in Les Ponts-de-Martel. The brand initially focused on producing repeater watches and pocket timepieces, gaining recognition for their precision and quality. 

But their rise to prominence really began when they launched their line of chronograph watches. The Second Boer War in 1899 created a demand for highly accurate timekeeping instruments, and Mathey-Tissot stepped up to the challenge. The brand’s chronographs became so popular among military personnel that it had to expand its production facilities. 

Shortly after, it seems like the Scottish nobility took notice, and one nobleman famously ordered 2,500 watches, presenting gold models to officers and silver ones to enlisted men. These timepieces were recognized for their exceptional reliability, earning accolades from prestigious institutions like the Kew Observatory in 1914. 

Mathey-Tissot’s reputation continued to grow during World War I when it became a key supplier of chronographs to the U.S. Army. These watches were prized for their precision and durability, leading General John Pershing to award them to his top officers. 

And, understandably, their strong military history led to personnel relying once again on Mathey-Tissot watches during World War II, with even the Royal Navy known for wearing some of their models. 

However, It wasn’t until the 20th century until Mathey-Tissot gained real popularity outside the military. They caught the eye of none other than Elvis Presley, who owned and gifted personalized Mathey-Tissot watches to his inner circle. 

However, like so many traditional watchmakers, Mathey-Tissot faced significant challenges during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. The advent of affordable, accurate quartz watches disrupted the industry, and Mathey-Tissot struggled to compete. 

The brand eventually came under Chinese ownership, shifting its focus to entry-level watches while retaining its Swiss heritage. Today, Mathey-Tissot continues to produce affordable, well-crafted timepieces, combining classic designs with modern accessibility. 

Popular Mathey-Tissot Watches 

Mathey-Tissot may not dominate the luxury market quite like Tissot, but it offers a range of models that deliver excellent value for money. With price points typically between $200 and $1,200, the brand caters to those who appreciate Swiss craftsmanship without breaking the bank. Here are just some of the standout models Mathey-Tissot has to offer: 

Mathy III

The Mathy III is a testament to Mathey-Tissot’s focus on classic design and functionality. This versatile watch features a clean dial layout with sleek baton markers and a wonderful faceted bezel that captures the light beautifully. 

There are models in steel, gold, or two-toned with options secured by leather or metal straps. The Mathey III is one of those easy-to-wear watches that suits both formal and casual occasions, striking a nice balance between tradition and modernity. 

Mathy Evasion

If you’ve ever admired the iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Mathy Evasion might catch your eye. Whether it’s intentionally inspired by the legendary design or not, there are clear similarities between these two watches – at least aesthetically. 

It has the same cushion-shaped case, wide flat bezel, and H-link bracelet. You’re not going to get an in-house movement, but if you’re happy with a Swiss quartz caliber, it’s definitely an attractive choice for budget-conscious enthusiasts. 

Mathy Ceramic

For those who admire the look of the Rolex Submariner but want a more accessible alternative, the Mathy Ceramic is a strong contender. 

With a unidirectional ceramic bezel, luminous markers, and a robust stainless-steel case, this dive watch embodies the rugged elegance of its higher-priced counterparts. While it lacks some of the advanced technology found in luxury divers, it offers exceptional value for its price point. 

Mathy GMT

Travelers will appreciate the Mathy GMT, a practical and stylish watch designed to track multiple time zones. 

Featuring a secondary hour hand and a 24-hour bezel, the Mathy GMT is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Its classic design makes it a versatile companion for globetrotters plus, I’ve even spotted a particular model with an all too familiar blue and red “Pepsi” bezel.

The Tissot Brand

Now, I’m not saying Tissot is as well-known as timepiece giants like Rolex or Omega, but they are certainly a name you’re more likely going to be familiar with compared to Mathey-Tissot. 

You might have spotted their branding while watching the MotoGP since Tissot has been the official timekeeper for the FIM MotoGP World Championship since 2001. Or, you might already be familiar with their watchmaking prowess, considering they are well-known for precision, elegance, and innovation. 

The History of Tissot 

Tissot’s story began in 1853, when Charles-Félicien Tissot and his son, Charles-Émile, founded Charles-Félicien Tissot & Son in Le Locle, Switzerland. 

Initially, the company operated as an assembly workshop, sourcing components such as cases, crowns, and straps from local craftsmen and assembling them into complete timepieces. The first Tissot watches were pocket and pendant watches aimed primarily at the burgeoning American market. 

Tissot’s international success began with a stroke of serendipity. In 1858, Charles-Émile traveled to Russia, where he eventually settled and married. 

His strong connections in Moscow helped the brand penetrate the Russian market, establishing a foothold that fuelled its growth. By 1885, Tissot was a respected name across Russia and had also begun expanding its reach in Europe and beyond. 

In 1907, Tissot opened its first factory in the nearby town of Chemin de Tourelles, a location that remains the brand’s headquarters to this day. 

By 1917, the company had taken a significant step forward by establishing its own manufacturing facilities, enabling it to produce movements and components in-house. This move reduced costs, improved quality control, and allowed Tissot to offer high-end watches at more accessible prices.

Ever since, Tissot has been at the forefront of horological innovation. In 1930, the brand introduced the first-ever non-magnetic wristwatch, setting a new industry standard. Tissot also experimented with unconventional materials and created watches made from plastic, wood, and even mother-of-pearl long before these were common in watchmaking. 

In the same year, Tissot merged with Omega to form the first Swiss watchmaking association, SSIH. This partnership strengthened both brands and allowed them to share resources and expertise while still maintaining their distinct identities. 

Like Mathey-Tissot, Tissot also faced challenges during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. However, its decision to join the Swatch Group in 1998 proved to be a masterstroke. As part of this prestigious conglomerate, which includes iconic brands like Omega, Longines, Rado, and Hamilton, Tissot has since flourished, bringing together its rich history with modern marketing and production capabilities. 

Best-Known Tissot Watches 

Tissot’s diverse portfolio includes a wide range of watches, from elegant dress pieces to rugged sports models retailing between $400 and $3,500. Here are some of the brand’s most iconic offerings:

Tissot PRX 

I might be a little biased here because I’m a proud owner of a Tissot PRX, but I truly believe this to be one of the best entry-level integrated sports watches out there. It’s a masterclass of retro-modern design, bringing back to life the brand’s original PRX model from the 1970s. 

It features a fluid integrated case and bracelet and a range of sleek, minimalist dials that evoke vintage cool. The quartz models are the most affordable, but I’ll forever be impressed by those powered by their in-house Powermatic 80 movement, a calibre that is automatic winding, anti-magnetic, and offers an outstanding 80-hour power reserve.

Tissot Gentleman

As its name suggests, the Tissot Gentleman is the perfect watch for those who appreciate classic sophistication. This model boasts a timeless design with a clean dial, polished indices, and a date window. It’s also available in a range of finishes, including stainless steel and rose gold and can also be found powered by their Powermatic 80 movement. 

Tissot PR100 Chronograph

The Tissot PR100 Chronograph is another robust and functional timepiece from the Swiss watchmaker and is a testament to the brand’s associations with motorsport. 

It brings together high-precision chronograph functionality and a tachymeter bezel so you can measure speed over distance with ease. It’s one of the many reasons this novelty is prized by racing enthusiasts and professionals alike. 

Tissot Seastar

The Tissot Seastar is the Swiss brand’s flagship diver’s watch that combines professional-grade performance with sleek aesthetics. With water resistance up to 300 meters, a unidirectional ceramic bezel, and luminous hands and markers, the Seastar is built for underwater adventures. Its robust build and stylish design make it equally suitable for daily wear. 

Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar

Finally, almost as a little excuse to show off, Tissot has a range of solar-powered smartwatches. Known as the T-Touch Connect Solar, these timepieces offer a suite of advanced features, including activity tracking, weather forecasting, and smartphone connectivity. 

They’re also entirely powered by solar energy, so you never have to wind the movement or change out the battery. Just pop it in natural or artificial light for a bit and it’ll be good to go.

Which is the Right Brand for You? 

Now you know that Mathey-Tissot and Tissot are totally different watch brands, offering their own selections of designs and technologies, you might now be asking yourself which brand is going to be best for you. Sadly, we can’t give you a straight answer. 

At the end of the day, both brands offer value, prestige, tradition, and innovation – just in their own ways. But there are some things that set them apart, so let’s take a look at them to help you work out which brand suits your style, budget, and needs.

 In my opinion, both Tissot and Mathey-Tissot are entry-level watch brands, but one is a little more budget friendly than the other. Mathey-Tissot offers several models for around $150, with some of their more expensive offerings sitting around the $4,000 mark. 

Tissot, by comparison, has few models that cost less than $300, with some of their more premium collections retailing up to $3,500. Regardless, both brands are exceptionally affordable, especially for the design and technology on offer. 

In my opinion, Tissot excels in design. Their watches are classic and elegant, and have a design DNA that differs strongly from so many others in the industry. 

On the other hand, Mathy-Tissot leans heavily into timeless and unified aesthetics that are often recognizable. This isn’t a bad thing by any means because if there’s a luxury watch out there you love the look of but don’t have the bank balance to support it, then this brand is going to be a great pick for you. But it’s something to keep in mind. 

When it comes to technology, both brands rely on Swiss craftsmanship and offer a range of manual, automatic, and quartz options. 

Mathey-Tissot tends to elect quartz movements more often than mechanical ones, while Tissot has something of an edge when it comes to their technology, using in-house mechanical movements like their Powermatic 80 caliber or solar-powered movements. 

Tissot also tends to offer more complex and accurate mechanical movements, particularly in their higher-end models, but of course, this is reflected in their price point. 

Really, the choice is up to you. If you’re on a tight budget or simply want an elegant, dependable Swiss watch, Mathey-Tissot is a strong contender. It’s an excellent starting point for anyone dipping their toes into the world of horology. 

On the other hand, if you’re looking for greater versatility, advanced features, and a touch of luxury without breaking the bank, Tissot is the brand to beat. It really depends on what you want from a watch and the budget you are working with.

Conclusion

While Mathey-Tissot and Tissot may share a slightly similar name, a Swiss heritage, and cater to entry-level watch enthusiasts, they are distinctly different brands with their own histories, lineups, and philosophies. 

Mathey-Tissot, with its classic, unified designs, and affordable price points, is perfect for those seeking timeless elegance without stretching their budget. Meanwhile, Tissot offers greater variety, innovation, and a touch of luxury, making it an excellent choice for those looking to combine style with advanced technology and craftsmanship. 

Both brands excel in delivering quality Swiss timepieces, but the right choice ultimately depends on your personal taste, lifestyle, and what you value in a watch. Whether you favor Mathey-Tissot’s understated charm or Tissot’s innovative edge, each offers something special and we have no doubt you’ll enjoy both brands, no matter which timepiece you add to your collection next.

There are so many GMT watches to choose from. There are well-known models like the GMT-Master from Rolex and the Seamaster Planet Ocean from Omega, and there are some watches that are lesser known but still deserve just as much attention. 

For me, one of these collections is the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT. It’s a series of watches based upon the Japanese watchmaker’s “Grand Seiko Style” design language inspired by the original 44GS launched in 1967. 

But these aren’t old-school timepieces in any shape or form. They are brilliantly designed from a steel alloy that looks and wears better than standard stainless steel, plus they uniquely present their GMT complication on a dial that’s more complex than any other GMT watch I’ve seen. 

They’re also powered by an in-house high-frequency movement. And all this comes at a retail price of less than $8,000. Yes, that’s significantly more affordable than those by Rolex and Omega. 

But did the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT watch’s specs live up to the hype after being on the wrist for a week? I got hands-on with one to find out, specifically reference SBGJ267, a boutique edition with a beautiful navy blue dial.

A 2023 Upgrade

When it launched in 2023, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT collection flew under the radar for a lot of collectors. 

Not because it wasn’t impressive, but merely because there were so many other incredible releases out at the time, including some by Grand Seiko themselves (I’m still not quite over the Grand Seiko Tentagraph). Plus, it was a subtle refresh to an already existing collection. But one that was needed. 

The 2023 Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT collection wasn’t about reinventing the wheel but about refining something classic. The family features five new references, each replacing an older model. 

For instance, the SBGH299 (time-and-date, silver dial) stepped in for the SBGH277, while the SBGJ263 GMT (silver dial) replaced the SBGJ201. There’s also the time-and-date SBGH301 (dark gray dial) to replace the lighter gray SBGH279 and the GMT SBGJ265 taking over the SBGJ203. 

There was also a stunning GMT boutique exclusive under reference SBGJ267. This one boasts a stunning blue dial and is the very model I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this past week. 

The changes made, although subtle, suggested they’d make a big improvement to overall wearability. Grand Seiko tweaked the dials, cases, and bracelets to bring everything just a touch more up-to-date, keeping these watches feeling fresh while staying true to their roots. 

The dials, for example, now feature intricate textures inspired by Mt. Iwate, a breathtaking mountain near GS’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio. It’s a nod to their heritage and is truthfully a sight to behold.

But, the biggest change is the material used for the case and bracelet. Each Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT watch features the brand’s Ever Brilliant Steel. A material that’s tougher, more corrosion-resistant, and boasts a brighter, whiter finish than traditional stainless steel.

Ever Brilliant Steel vs Standard Steel

Before I get into the minute details of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267, I want to first explain exactly what the difference is between Grand Seiko’s Ever Brilliant steel and the standard stainless steel used on most watches. Because, ultimately, it’s this material (among other things), that helps this watch stand out against its competition.

Ever Brilliant Steel isn’t just regular stainless steel, but an alloy that has a PREN (Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number) that’s 1.7 times higher than what you’ll find in the steel used for most luxury watches. Translation? It’s way better at standing up to things like rust and corrosion. While most watches are often made from 316L steel, Ever Brilliant Steel is known as 904L steel. 

Over time, normal stainless steel can start to lose its luster, especially if you’re wearing your watch in humid or salty environments. Meanwhile, Ever Brilliant Steel keeps looking fresh and shiny way longer. It’s also got this super bright, almost white finish that gives the watch an extra pop of elegance compared to the usual grayish tone of standard steel.

The Ever-Brilliant Steel Case

As I mentioned earlier, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 draws its design inspiration from the original 44GS, a 1967 release that established the iconic “Grammar of Design”. 

This watch defined the sharp, clean aesthetic Grand Seiko is now famous for. The SBGJ267 case stays true to that legacy with a breathtaking mix of curves, angles, and flat surfaces to create a sleek, sophisticated presence on the wrist. 

Measuring 40mm in diameter and 14.4mm in height, the GMT model isn’t the slimmest, but there’s a good reason for that. The added thickness accommodates the intricate movement and GMT complication. There’s an added hand, after all, so the case needs to make room for that. Despite this, the watch doesn’t feel bulky, thanks to its well-balanced proportions and 50mm lug-to-lug length. It may struggle under a super-tight shirt cuff but will fit comfortably beneath most sleeves. 

The Ever-Brilliant Steel used for the case elevates the design even further. This proprietary alloy gives the watch an almost white, radiant finish that stands out from traditional stainless steel. It’s also highly resistant to corrosion, ensuring the case retains its pristine appearance for years. 

Then there’s the Zaratsu polishing, a hallmark of Grand Seiko craftsmanship. Achieving this flawless, mirror-like finish is no small feat since it takes artisans years to master the skill, which involves pressing the metal against a spinning tin plate. 

The result is a surface so reflective and distortion-free that you can practically use it as a mirror. While most of the cases are Zaratsu polished, carefully placed brushed sections add subtle contrast and emphasis to the angular architecture. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 also includes a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, knurled and embossed with the GS logo, giving the watch a 100-meter water resistance. This allows the release to straddle the line between a dress watch and a sports watch. It could easily be worn as both. 

The double-domed sapphire crystal on top adds a vintage touch that nods to the 1960s 44GS while showcasing the dial beautifully. It features added anti-reflective coating for improved legibility and scratch resistance. 

Flip the Grand Seiko watch over, and you’ll find a screw-down case back with a sapphire window and a finely detailed beaded edge, drawing attention to the stunning movement inside.

The Intricate Navy Dial 

While I am undoubtedly impressed by the case of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch, I could also stare at its dial for a lifetime. 

I’ve said it so many times at this point, but Grand Seiko are truly the masters of dial design. They are never short of inspiration from their home country, bringing to life their Japanese heritage through intricate and masterful textures and colors. 

For the SBGJ267, Grand Seiko uses their iconic Mt. Iwate pattern, inspired by the ridged surfaces of the mountain visible from their Shizukuishi Studio, where all their mechanical watches are born. 

The pattern is super fine and subtle, scattering out from the center in a sunburst effect. But it’s not just any ordinary sunburst dial, it’s more like the scatter of snow or rain. Its super fine, super detailed and super pretty. For me, Grand Seiko dials will always be better than Rolexes for this reason. 

This intricate texture also plays a huge part in the color of the dial. It mostly appears as a rich navy, but catch it in the right light, and it can shift to a lighter hue or even a deep, almost-black shade. It’s endlessly fascinating. 

The layout is a little different for Grand Seiko, too. Instead of the 24-hour GMT scale being on the dial’s inner section, it’s placed neatly on the rehaut, keeping the main dial clean and minimal. The rest of the hardware is classic Grand Seiko. There are razor-sharp dauphine-style hour and minute hands, brushed on top and polished along the edges. 

The hand-applied indices are equally stunning, faceted like tiny gemstones with a mix of brushed and polished finishes that catch the light beautifully. Like the case, all the hardware is hand-finished and made using diamond-tipped milling tools to create this exceptional shine and gleam.

Adding to the mix is the rose gold GMT hand, which pops against the blue dial while staying elegant and legible. At 3 o’clock, there’s a polished-framed date window with a crisp black-on-white date wheel. The rest of the dial keeps things balanced, with the Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and movement info at 6 o’clock.

The Hi-Beat GMT Movement

The beating heart of the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 is the in-house Caliber 9S86. The movement is yet another highlight of this release, known as a high-frequency automatic winding caliber that beats at 5Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour.

This means it has super high levels of accuracy and a buttery-smooth motion for the second hand. The movement also boasts a 55-hour power reserve and an accuracy rated at -3 to +5 seconds per day, a rating that beats even COSC certification

The Caliber 9S86 is also a traveler’s GMT movement, a complication that’s perfect for those who like to hop between timezones. 

Unlike “office” GMT watches, where the 24-hour hand is independently adjustable, the local hour hand here can be adjusted in one-hour increments—both forwards and backward—while the minute and GMT hands remain unaffected. 

This is a game-changer for frequent flyers since you just pop the crown into its second position, move the hour hand, and you’re set without messing up the minutes or the additional time zone displayed by the 24-hour hand. 

The movement is also beautiful to look at, visible through the watch’s sapphire case back. As with everything, Grand Seiko spares no effort in its finishing, with 37 jewels nestled into a movement adorned with intricate striping and polishing.

The Ever-Brilliant Bracelet

The bracelet on the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 is also beautiful, but it is the only part of the watch I have some criticism of. It’s crafted from the same Ever Brilliant Steel as the case, so it matches perfectly in both durability and shine. 

It also has a wonderful architecture featuring staggered links in alignment, size, and finish to create this amazing light play as it catches the light from every angle. The polished edges and rolled, beveled link edges give it a refined look, while the inner flanks of the links are polished. The rest of the bracelet is brushed. It’s a fantastic combination of sharp and smooth, elegant and rugged.

The clasp is a twin-trigger release, so it’s secure and doesn’t just pop open easily, which is a nice touch for peace of mind. The Grand Seiko logo is embossed on the outside in relief, adding a subtle but classy touch. 

There are half links at both ends, so you can get pretty close to perfect fit. Plus, the bracelet has screw links for easy adjustments, which is a relief for anyone who has had to deal with pin links before.

However, here’s the downside: there’s no micro-adjustment on the clasp. It’s a bit of a miss since micro-adjustment is such an important feature on metal bracelets. It would make fine-tuning the fit a lot easier, especially on warm days when your wrist might swell a bit. I do wish Grand Seiko would take the time to refine their metal bracelets this way, but that said, it’s not a deal-breaker for me. But it’s something to keep in mind if you’re a stickler for precision.

On the upside, the 19mm lug width, despite being a bit of an odd size, makes finding alternate straps possible, and you’ve got drilled lugs to make swapping them out easy. Plus, if this watch sounds a little large in its dimensions for you, I reckon placing it on a leather or textile strap would make it a lot more wearable.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 wears beautifully on the wrist thanks to its well-proportioned 40mm diameter and lug-to-lug measurement of 50mm. It feels comfortable and secure, fitting a wide range of wrist sizes, from 6 inches to 7.5 inches. At 159 grams, it’s not too heavy, but there’s definitely some presence to it. It’s just the right amount of weight to feel substantial without being overly bulky.

The slightly thicker case might be a drawback for some, but part of this is put down to the domed sapphire crystal. It does mean it’s not ideal for sliding under formal shirt cuffs, so it would suit sportier wear better. 

Although, to be honest, I would still wear this for dressier occasions. I’d just make sure my shirt cuffs weren’t too tight. Simply put, the Grand Seiko SBGJ267 feels as beautiful as it looks.

Price & Availability

If you’re interested in purchasing the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch, there are a few things to keep in mind. 

For starters, this is a boutique-only edition, which means it’s only available at select Grand Seiko stores and authorized Grand Seiko retailers around the world. Thankfully, Exquisite Timepieces is one of the same. 

Brand new, the Grand Seiko SBGJ267 retails for $7,500, which is honestly really impressive for a GMT watch made from a luxury metal with a hand-crafted case and dial, full metal bracelet and an in-house high-frequency movement. 

I’m pretty sure there are no other GMT watches finished to this standard with this level of technology for a price even close to this. You might be able to find the model on the second-hand market, too, if you’re working with a smaller budget. A quick look online, and I saw a few pre-owned references for around $6,000.

Conclusion

In my opinion, the Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ267 watch is one of the best GMT watches on the market, especially when you consider its price. There’s a level of precision, craftsmanship, and attention to detail here that’s hard to beat. 

It ticks every box for a fantastic GMT: precision, functionality, a healthy 55-hour power reserve, and a durable yet stunning case made from Ever-Brilliant Steel. If you asked me to choose between this and the Rolex GMT-Master, I’d pick the Grand Seiko every time.

Yes, the bracelet could be improved with some micro adjustment, but I’ll be honest: I’m too distracted by how incredible the dial looks even to notice. The Mt. Iwate pattern is nothing short of mesmerizing and I do have hope they’ll release this watch, or at least something similar, in some more non-traditional dial colors soon to spice things up further.

This time last year, Grand Seiko decided to end the year with a bang by launching their last watch of 2023. It was a design many people had been waiting for and was suitably named the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Winding SBGW305. 

It’s a watch you could easily fall in love with for a number of reasons. It boasted a compact set of dimensions to suit pretty much any wrist size, an in-house manual winding movement, and a wonderful heritage-inspired aesthetic that tempted all of us with a love of vintage watches. 

But why were collectors so excited for this model? To understand this, we first need to go back a couple more years to the release of another Grand Seiko watch, one found under reference SBGW235.

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305’s Predecessor

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 owes much of its popularity to its predecessor, the SBGW235, which debuted in 2021. The SBGW235 was a stunner, and if you’ve ever ogled photos of it online (like I have countless times), you’ll know exactly what I mean. 

It has this perfectly rounded, compact case that sits well on most wrists, paired with a clean, heritage-inspired dial that oozes class. It also has a manual-winding movement for a proper throwback to the golden era of watchmaking. 

But for many, myself included, the pièce de résistance of the Grand Seiko SBGW235 is the beads of rice bracelet. Grand Seiko isn’t exactly known for their metal bracelets. They’re incredible at pretty much everything except bracelets. 

But this vintage-inspired band can’t be included in this opinion. According to many who have had hands-on time with this metal band, it’s one of the best beads of rice bracelets on the market. 

So what’s the catch? Unfortunately, the Grand Seiko SBGW235 was only available in Japan. Yep, it was one of those “look but don’t touch” situations for us collectors outside of the country. I’ve heard glowing reviews from my watch friends overseas, but I’ve never actually seen it in person. 

Fast forward to December 2023, and along came the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305, which felt like the Japanese watchmaker’s attempt at throwing us international fans a bone. It’s not a one-to-one replica of the SBGW235, but the design is clearly inspired by it. 

This time, it features a crisp silver dial instead of the creamy tone of its predecessor. It also elects silver-toned hardware on the dial rather than a blued seconds hand. 

But we still have the same minimalist dial layout, the absence of a date window (thank you, Grand Seiko!), the compact dimensions, and—most importantly—the same glorious beads of rice bracelet. And unlike the SBGW235, the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 isn’t exclusive to Japan.

A Case Worthy of the 1960’s

If you like vintage-inspired design, then you’ll no doubt love the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch. The biggest draw for me, and I’m sure for many of you who have relatively small wrists (or just like vintage proportions), will be the set of dimensions.

At 37.3mm in diameter, it’s compact and wonderfully wearable, hitting that perfect sweet spot for pretty much any wrist size. The lug-to-lug is 44.3mm, and the thickness is a mere 11.7mm, making it one of the easiest Grand Seiko watches to slide under a cuff. It’s small but mighty, full of retro charm, and completely timeless.

Now, let’s talk details. The stainless steel case is a nod to the original Grand Seiko from 1960, and you can feel the heritage in every curve. It’s got a classic fixed bezel that sits flush with the case but below the domed crystal that rises above it for that retro vibe. 

The crystal in use is box-style sapphire with an anti-reflective coating on the inside, so you get a crystal-clear view without any annoying reflections. 

Another beautiful addition to the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305’s case is the Zaratsu polishing. If you’re not familiar with Zaratsu, it is Grand Seiko’s signature mirror-like polishing technique, and it’s flawless. The entire case gleams like liquid metal, reflecting light in the most mesmerizing way. 

It’s not an easy finish to achieve either, with artisans having to train for over three years before being trusted to hold the precious stainless steel against a spinning tin plate to give it its unbeatable shine. 

The crown is push-pull, which is pretty standard for a dress watch, and it offers 30 meters of water resistance. It’s definitely not a watch you’ll want to risk near open water, but let’s be real, you probably shouldn’t be shopping in the dress watch department if you’re wanting something to take in the ocean. 

The crown is slightly oversized, and while I’m sure some might think it’s a bit bulky, I love it. It adds to the vintage aesthetic and reminds me a lot of an onion crown, except without the onion shape. And, of course, the crown is signed with the GS logo in relief for a nice finishing touch.

Turn the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch around, and you’ve got an exhibition case back secured by six screws. The sapphire crystal lets you peek at the manual-winding movement inside (more on that later), and there’s a delicate beaded border around the glass to draw your attention inward. It’s a small detail, but it really adds to the overall elegance of the watch.

A Clean, Date-less Dial

For the dial, the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Winding SBGW305 watch continues its tradition of clean, refined watchmaking. And you might not agree with me, but it’s seriously all the better for having no date. 

I can’t overstate how much I love a no-date dial, especially on a dress watch like this. There’s just something so satisfying about the simplicity and symmetry it brings. No date, no clutter, just pure elegance.

The dial itself has a beautiful silver sunray finish that keeps things classic and versatile. It’s subtle enough to stay under the radar but has just enough shimmer to catch the light and add depth. There are no intricate patterns or distractions here, just a clean, timeless surface that’s all about understated sophistication. It feels like the perfect blank canvas for the polished hardware to shine.

Speaking of the hardware, the indices are hand-applied and fully polished, reflecting light like tiny mirrors. Each cardinal hour marker gets a double index for extra clarity, which adds a practical touch without disrupting the design’s flow. The hands are sharp and angular, crafted with the same meticulous attention to detail. 

The minute and second hands are even slightly bent by hand to follow the subtle curve of the dial. It’s a detail that’s easy to miss but impossible not to appreciate once you notice it. There’s no blued second hand here like the SBGW235. Instead, everything sticks to a sleek monochromatic silver and steel theme, which gives the watch a harmonious, cohesive look.

The only other feature to note is the Grand Seiko logo positioned at 12 o’clock. You might have noticed that the font for this is a little different from some of the Japanese watch manufacturer’s other models. It’s a replica of their 1960s emblem, working as the perfect signpost to the inspiration behind this model.

A Manual Winding Movement

A watch like the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 could only be powered by a manual-winding movement. It’s a 1960s-inspired timepiece, after all. 

I’ve always had a soft spot for manual winding watches; there’s just something so satisfying about winding your watch each morning feeling that connection to the craftsmanship on your wrist. Manual winding is not just a feature here but part of the experience.

The movement in question is the Grand Seiko Caliber 9S64, a hand-wound movement introduced in 2011. It offers a 72-hour power reserve so it’s perfect for wearing as a formal work watch. 

For example, if you wear it during the workweek and take it off on Friday night, it’ll still be ticking when Monday morning rolls around. The movement also operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, which gives it that buttery-smooth sweep of the second hand that’s a joy to watch.

Since it’s made entirely in-house by Grand Seiko, the Caliber 9S64 is packed with all the high-tech features known to the Japanese watchmaker. For example, it uses the brand’s proprietary alloy called Spron510 for the mainspring, which is thinner and longer than usual, allowing for that impressive three-day power reserve. 

Meanwhile, the balance spring is made from Spron610, another proprietary alloy that’s highly shock-resistant and anti-magnetic, ensuring durability and reliability.

Grand Seiko’s commitment to precision is also on full display here. The movement is tested in six different positions and at three different temperatures over 17 days to achieve an accuracy rating of +5 to -3 seconds per day. That’s a rating better than the COSC standard.

And let’s not forget the finishing. Through the exhibition case back, the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch lets you admire the striped bridges, polished screws, and the visible jewels, which are positioned in a way that makes them sparkle when the light hits just right. 

It’s not as elaborately decorated as some haute horology movements, but the clean and purposeful aesthetic fits Grand Seiko’s design philosophy perfectly.

The Beads of Rice Bracelet

As you could probably tell from the introduction, the feature I was most excited to see in person on the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Wind SBGW305 watch was the beads of rice bracelet. It’s a strap that’s the perfect match for a vintage-inspired dress watch. 

It’s a stainless steel five-link bracelet with a “beads of rice” design, something of a rarity on Grand Seiko dress pieces and one of the reasons this watch stands out.

 If you’re not familiar with the beads of rice style, it’s a bracelet that gets its name from the small, rounded center links that resemble tiny grains of rice arranged in neat rows. These links are flanked by polished outer links, giving the bracelet a timeless, elegant look. 

What I love most about the beads of rice bracelet is how it wears. The tiny, closely spaced links allow the bracelet to drape and conform to your wrist almost like fabric. It’s incredibly comfortable and there’s no pinching or stiffness, just a silky-smooth feel. 

This level of flexibility makes it an absolute joy to wear, especially if you’re someone who values comfort as much as style.

The bracelet is 19mm wide at the lugs and tapers down to 17mm at the clasp, adding to the overall sleekness of the watch. The clasp itself is a dual push-button release, which is easy to use and feels secure. 

Now, here’s the downside: there’s no micro-adjustment on the clasp, and the bracelet doesn’t come with any half links. This means getting the perfect fit can be a bit of a challenge. I won’t sugarcoat it, if you’re particular about how snug your bracelet fits, this might be a sticking point.

One thoughtful feature is the drilled lugs, which makes swapping out the bracelet for a strap super easy. However, the 19mm lug width is a bit uncommon, so finding aftermarket straps might take some effort. Still, the versatility of the bracelet means you might not even want to take it off. 

It complements the watch’s design so well, from the polished Zaratsu case to the clean, silver dial, that it feels like they were made for each other. In short, while the bracelet isn’t perfect in terms of adjustability, it more than makes up for it in looks and comfort. It’s a stunning addition to an already beautiful watch.

On-Wrist Experience

I was fortunate enough to get hands-on with the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch for a whole week, and I truly mean this: I only took it off when I needed to be around water. It was an absolute dream to wear. 

It felt made for my 5.5-inch wrist, which isn’t something I say often when I review watches. My wrists often struggle with larger watches, but this one fits like a glove.

The compact 37.3mm case, short lug-to-lug of 44.3mm, and the slim 11.7mm thickness makes it perfectly proportioned for smaller-than-average wrists. It hugs the wrist without feeling bulky, and the beads of rice bracelet adds an extra layer of comfort, draping naturally and flexibly around the skin. 

It would easily suit wrists up to 7.5 inches in my opinion, but anything over that and it may start to feel a little small for your frame. That said, don’t let me put you off, especially if you love a small vintage-inspired timepiece.

At just 108 grams, the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Wind SBGW305 watch has a reassuring heft without being overwhelming. It feels substantial but not heavy, striking that perfect balance that lets you forget it’s even there until you catch a glimpse of it peeking out from under your sleeve. 

The slim profile means it slides effortlessly under any dress cuff, too, so it’s ideal for formal occasions or as an “at-the-office watch”. While it’s marketed as a men’s dress watch, the size and design are easily unisex.

Price & Availability

Although the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 is a “simple” watch in many ways, keeping things clean and minimalistic, it packs a punch in terms of its attention to detail and technology. It’s why when I found out its retail price, I was shocked – in the best way. It retails brand new for only $5,700. 

There aren’t many watches as physically beautiful and technologically impressive as this at this price. Plus, if you’re lucky, you might be able to find it cheaper on the second-hand market. I found a couple of examples retailing for around $4,000.

The Grand Seiko SBGW305 is currently a permanent addition to the brand’s Elegance collection, so it’s not limited to a specific set of numbers. It can be ordered indefinitely as long as the stock lasts. 

Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces to ensure you receive a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch might be one of the most beautiful Grand Seiko watches I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing. It’s a timepiece that feels tailor-made for smaller wrists thanks to its compact dimensions, and equally as perfect for anyone who appreciates a clean, refined, vintage-inspired timepiece.

The beads of rice bracelet is as stunning as I’d hoped, draping comfortably around the wrist and adding to the watch’s retro charm. While I do wish it had some micro-adjustment for an easier fit, it’s a minor gripe that doesn’t detract from the overall experience. The dimensions are spot-on, the manual-winding movement is a joy to interact with, and the simplicity of the dial is pure perfection.

I know this is a watch many Grand Seiko collectors have been waiting for, and I can confidently say it was worth the wait. If you’ve been considering adding this beauty to your collection, I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Grand Seiko is well known for a number of things. When I think of this Japanese watchmaker, I think of their groundbreaking Spring Drive movements, their intricately textured dials, and, of course, the iconic lion on their logo. Interestingly, there’s a watch that brings all these elements together in a deliberate, celebratory way: the Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307.

It’s a watch I’ve admired from afar for a few months. On paper and in photos, it has always seemed like a brilliant timepiece, but since its release earlier this year, I’ve never felt the urge to rush to my nearest Grand Seiko retailer to see it in person. Why? The case dimensions. I’ll warn you now: this isn’t a small, compact dress watch that effortlessly slides under a tight shirt cuff. 

No, this is a bold statement piece, a watch with real wrist presence that could easily overwhelm smaller wrists. But if you’ve got the frame to pull it off, this could very well be a spectacular addition to your collection.

This week, I got the chance to go hands-on with the Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 watch to see just how beautiful it is in person and whether it lives up to its roaring reputation.

The History of the Grand Seiko Lion

The Grand Seiko lion logo has been around since the brand’s very first watch in 1960, and it’s been a symbol of strength and nobility ever since. The lion, often called the “king of beasts,” perfectly represents what Grand Seiko is all about: precision, power, and a certain regal elegance. 

When they launched the brand, Grand Seiko wanted to create watches that were a cut above the rest, and it almost feels like they chose the lion as their symbol to prove they’ll be leading the way or the pride…

Over the years, the lion has been a pretty prominent part of Grand Seiko’s identity, usually sitting proudly on the case back of their watches. It’s become more of a logo but a statement about the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and innovation. 

Fast forward to 2024, and Grand Seiko decided to take things to the next level with the ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307, which made its debut at this year’s Watches & Wonders event. 

This watch does something a little different by moving the lion from the case back to the dial. The dial features a beautiful champagne color and a texture designed to evoke the flow of a lion’s mane. It’s a really clever design idea, bringing the whole essence of their logo front and center. 

This isn’t the first Grand Seiko watch to be inspired by their logo. There have been a couple of other models, such as the SBGA403 with an olive green lion mane dial and the SBGC230, a chronograph with deep maroon coloring. But the new Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 is a little more special because this one is not a limited edition.

A Claw-Inspired Case 

As I mentioned in the introduction, the case of the Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 is a beast in more ways than one. Its architecture is purposely designed to evoke the sharp and abrasive nature of a lion. The case is sharp, bold and angular, and my gosh, the lugs. 

Designed to evoke the shape of a lion’s claws, these lugs certainly aren’t your typical GS lugs. They’re bold and angled, and they have these exaggerated slopes that add a whole other dimension to the case. Yet, as sharp as they look, they’re not uncomfortable. The underside softens the aggression, curving gently down to meet your wrist like a handshake. 

It’s a big case too, no question about it. At 44.5mm wide and 14.9mm thick, it’s not sneaking under any cuffs. Although it has a noticeable presence, it does make up for it with titanium construction. The hardened and high-intensity titanium makes the release 30% lighter than if it was made from standard stainless steel. 

This helps make that hefty set of dimensions more wearable, and with the help of the curved lugs, it has a nice low center of gravity. Yes, it’s big, but it doesn’t feel bulky, which isn’t an easy thing to do. The use of titanium also provides the added benefits of increased scratch resistance and overall durability. 

Now let’s talk finishing. Grand Seiko is known for its high level of finishing when it comes to cases, and the Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 is no different. The case boasts a mix of hairline brushing and Zaratsu polishing, two contrasting finishes that look glorious side by side. 

The brushing gives elements like the sharp lug tops a matte, utilitarian finish, while the Zaratsu polishing, famed for its mirror-like reflection, adds to its sharp, sophisticated nature. It’s the kind of watch that you want to take off your wrist and turn around in your hands just to see how it catches the light at different angles. 

The fixed black ceramic bezel is a bit of a curveball, and I’m not sure how I feel about it. It looks like it should rotate, since the black insert contrasts dramatically against the crisp titanium metal and cream dial, but it’s not. It’s simply static and marked by a 24-hour scale to work with the GMT hand at the center. 

I’m not mad about its functionality because, at the end of the day, it provides an additional time zone, but I do wish they’d made the bezel in titanium or steel rather than using a black sapphire insert. I feel a design choice like this would have added to the SBGE307’s fierce but sophisticated charm. 

On the other hand, the dual-curved sapphire crystal is perfection. It doesn’t protrude or distract; it’s just there, doing its job with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface to keep glare to a minimum. 

Together, the bezel and crystal come together for a clean, modern look that works well. Sapphire crystal is also used on the case back, so you have front-row seats to admire the Spring Drive movement at work. There’s also a screw-down crown embossed with the GS logo to assist in a healthy 200-meter water-resistant rating.

A Mane Inspired-Dial

It’s probably pretty obvious, but the dial of the Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 watch is where it really shines. It has this incredible ivory-gold champagne hue with a texture inspired by the organic flow of a lion’s mane. 

It’s subtle, not over the top, but detailed enough that you can understand where its inspiration comes from. It’s one of those Grand Seiko dials that you could stare at all day, with every glance revealing something new. 

It’s a rich and dynamic texture that almost replicates brush strokes, catching the light and adding to its golden shimmer. If you’ve seen the SBGA413 “Shunbun” before, you’ll catch a similar vibe here, although this one leans into a warmer, golden tone that feels even more regal. 

The hands and indices on this dial are pure Grand Seiko. They’re broad, bold, and immaculately finished. The hands are faceted with mirror-like precision, so they pop beautifully against the textured backdrop. 

They’re also generously filled with Lumibrite, which makes them glow bright and legible even in low light. The hour markers are similarly treated, with the 6, 9, and 12 indices standing out as luminous anchors for nighttime legibility. Every facet and angle on these markers is razor sharp, catching the light with a sparkle that screams luxury. 

One standout feature is the hour hand. It’s short and chunky, almost reminding me of a lion’s paw swiping across the dial. I don’t know whether this was intentional or not, but it fits the overall theme well. 

The minute and seconds hands are sleeker but no less impressive, and the red GMT hand provides a pop of contrast against the cream display. The GMT text at 6 o’clock is in the same shade of dark red, sitting below further lettering denoting the Spring Drive movement and the Grand Seiko logo.   

The only other features to note on the dial are the date window and the power reserve indicator. The date replaces the 3 o’clock index, boasting its own silvered border and black-on-white date disc. Meanwhile, the power reserve indicator, a feature I know Grand Seiko watch fans seem to either love or hate, is positioned between the 7 and 8 o’clock markers. 

While I’m often on the side of those who believe the power reserve’s design can interrupt the flow of the dial, I don’t feel that here. The curved indicator nestles into the texture naturally, and you almost don’t notice it until you need it.

A Spring Drive Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 is the Caliber 9R66 Spring Drive, a piece of horological wizardry that blends the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. 

It combines a traditional mainspring, which powers the watch like a mechanical movement, with a quartz oscillator and an electronic regulator to deliver unparalleled accuracy and a smooth sweeping seconds hand

No matter how many times I watch the seconds hand of a Grand Seiko Spring Drive watch, I’m always fascinated by how smoothly, silently, and effortlessly it slides across the dial. The levels of precision delivered by the Caliber 9R66 are equally as fascinating. 

It’s accurate to +/- 1 second per day or +/- 1 15 seconds per month. That’s better than most quartz watches, yet it’s achieved without sacrificing the craftsmanship of a mechanical movement. 

The 9R66 also brings GMT functionality into the mix, making this watch as practical as it is beautiful. The independent GMT hand, also known as a “true” GMT, lets you track a second timezone and adjust the time without affecting any of the other hands. 

The Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 watch also delivers a robust 72-hour power reserve, that’s three full days of uninterrupted performance, meaning you can take it off Friday night, and it’ll still be ticking strong come Monday morning.

Straps

Made from the same high-intensity titanium as the case, the bracelet of the Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 watch is lightweight and tough, perfectly complementing the angular aesthetic of the timepiece. What sets it apart is its H-link design, something of a rarity for Grand Seiko, but it’s a perfect fit for the sharp lines and bold character of the watch. 

As we know, Grand Seiko is all about the details, and the bracelet here is no exception. The links are predominantly brushed, giving it a sleek, understated look, but there are polished accents along the edges that add just the right amount of sophistication. It’s the kind of finishing that catches the light subtly, creating a play of textures that elevates the overall design without being flashy. 

The bracelet is designed with practicality in mind. It’s sized with push pins, which is standard for Grand Seiko’s titanium bracelets, making adjustments straightforward. 

The clasp is a twin-trigger fold over style with three micro-adjustment holes, so you can fine-tune the fit to your wrist. And then there’s the diver’s extension, a bit of an odd choice for a GMT watch but, hey, added functionality never hurts. 

Another arguably odd design choice is the 23mm lug width. It’s going to make finding alternative watch straps a little tricky. But as mentioned, the lugs are drilled, so making the swap will be easy. I just wish you luck finding a good variety of straps to fit between them. 

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 is a big watch, there’s no two ways about it. At 44.5mm in diameter, it’s got serious wrist presence. But something that did surprise me was that it doesn’t wear nearly as large as the specs suggest. 

Thanks to its titanium construction, the watch is incredibly lightweight, making it much more comfortable than you’d expect for its size. The 50mm lug-to-lug distance is also compact enough to keep the watch balanced, even on slightly smaller wrists. And those beautifully curved claw-inspired lugs also help it sit flush on the wrist rather than towering awkwardly. 

If your wrist can handle a larger watch, say if your arm is around 7.5 inches or more in size, then this Grand Seiko is absolutely worth considering. It’s bold without being overbearing, with a design that commands attention without shouting for it. That said, if you’ve got a wrist around 6.5 inches and you prefer your watches on the larger side, you can still pull this off.

Price & Availability

Unlike the other lion-inspired models we’ve seen from Grand Seiko previously, the Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 watch is not a limited edition, which means it’ll stay a permanent part of the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio until they choose to swap it out for something new in the distant future. This makes it a whole lot more accessible to watch collectors than before.

Price wise, the Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 watch retails for $11,000. Yes, it’s not the most affordable of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive models, but when you take into account the added GMT complication, the full titanium case and bracelet, and the exquisite detailing of the dial, it really does make sense. 

Since it only came out earlier this year, you might struggle to find it on the pre-owned market, but I have spotted a couple out there retailing for around $9,500.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko ‘Tokyo Lion’ Champagne GMT SBGE307 is a beautiful watch through and through. It’s a large watch, but its beautifully sharp and sleek titanium construction makes up for that. Those lugs are something special, helping to keep the case low and balanced on most wrists. 

But the real star for me here is the dial. I can’t praise it enough. It’s absolutely breathtaking with its subtle shimmer, rich champagne tone, and the paintbrush-like texture inspired by a lion’s mane. Even though this is a sports watch, the dial adds an undeniable touch of elegance, making it versatile enough for both casual and formal settings. For those who can handle its bold size and aesthetic, the Grand Seiko SBGE307 is a watch that delivers in every way.

Watches say a lot about us. They speak to our sense of style, our punctuality (or attempts at it), and even our personality quirks. Even the smallest parts of our watches can reveal things about us, whether it’s the color of the dial or even the size of the case. Similarly, did you know that even the wrist you choose to wear your watch can reveal something about you?

Most people automatically go for the left wrist, following a decades-old tradition. But many people are choosing to break from the mold, donning their watches on the right wrist instead. 

For some, it’s a matter of comfort or just about practicality. For others, it’s a matter of habit or style. But without us realizing it, there can be some subconscious psychological reasons why we wear our watches on the right hand.

Reasons for Wearing a Watch on the Right Hand 

Wearing a watch on the right hand may not be as common, but it’s certainly not unusual. People have all kinds of reasons for making this choice; some practical, some personal, and some just based on habit. Here are some of just a few reasons you might choose to wear a watch on your right wrist:

Tradition

Tradition often plays a big role in why people wear a watch on a particular wrist. Historically, wristwatches were designed with a specific function in mind: to be easily operated without needing to remove them. Most people are right-handed, so the majority of watches are crafted with a small knob on the right side of the watch face called the crown. 

This crown allows you to wind the watch and adjust the time, so placing it on the left wrist means you can wind and adjust it using your dominant right hand. Wearing your watch on the left also helps protect the watch from damage since the less dominant hand (the left, for most) is generally less active and thus less likely to bump or scratch the watch.

This left-wrist tradition quickly became the standard in Western culture, with the design of wristwatches reflecting it to this day. However, in some cultures, wearing a watch on the right wrist is more common and even carries its own significance. 

In parts of Eastern Europe, South Asia, and the Middle East, for instance, wearing a watch on the right wrist may be linked to cultural norms and values or even religious beliefs. In these regions, people may feel that wearing a watch on the right wrist aligns with certain customs or is seen as a more dignified or respectful choice.

Left-Handed

Being left-handed is one of the most common practical reasons people wear a watch on their right wrist. Since lefties use their left hand for most daily tasks, putting a watch on the right wrist frees up their dominant hand for writing, eating, or using tools. 

This means the watch doesn’t interfere with the activities they perform most frequently, where wrist movement and flexibility are essential. Having the watch on their non-dominant wrist also reduces the chance of accidental damage from tasks that involve fine motor skills or pressure, like chopping, writing, or even playing sports.

Wearing the watch on the right wrist also allows left-handed people to adjust or wind the watch more comfortably with their dominant hand. 

Many traditional watches are designed with the crown (the knob used to set the time) on the right side, which is ideal for right-handers wearing a watch on their left wrist. When left-handed people wear a right-sided crown watch on their right wrist, they can easily access and operate it with their left hand, which might be much trickier if they wore the watch on the left.

Personal Style

Sometimes, wearing a watch on the right wrist is simply a matter of personal style. Watches are often worn as part of an outfit as a fashion accessory, and rightly so. These timekeeping marvels are made to look good, after all. 

So, some people choose to wear their watch on a particular wrist simply because they like how it looks. For some people, a watch on the right wrist feels a bit more unconventional and can help them stand out from the crowd. 

It’s like a subtle statement to show they like to be different. Others might choose the right wrist because it fits better with other accessories. For example, they might wear other pieces of jewelry on the left wrist, like bracelets or bangles.

Physiological Issues

Comfort and health considerations play a significant role in how people choose which wrist to wear a watch on, especially for those managing certain physiological conditions or temporary injuries. 

For example, for people with carpal tunnel syndrome or tendonitis, the choice of wrist can greatly impact comfort. Carpal tunnel syndrome occurs when the median nerve is compressed as it travels through the wrist, often causing tingling, pain, or numbness. 

Wearing a watch on an affected wrist may worsen these symptoms by adding extra pressure to an already sensitive area.

In addition to chronic conditions, injuries like sprains, fractures, or even just soreness from repetitive strain can influence the choice of wrist. For instance, someone with a cast or a bandage on one wrist may naturally shift their watch to the other side. 

Some people may also experience swelling due to circulation issues or arthritis, which can cause fluctuations in wrist size and sensitivity. For these individuals, wearing a watch loosely on the less sensitive wrist or switching wrists based on daily comfort can prevent additional pain and allow them to keep wearing their timepieces.

Which Hand Should a Man Wear a Watch on? 

Traditionally, men are most commonly seen wearing their watch on the left hand. This trend dates back to the early days of wristwatches when pocket watches were converted into wristwatches and worn on the left hand, making it easier for right-handed men to wind them with their dominant hand. Over time, this became a social norm, and it’s still the standard for many men today. 

However, there’s no hard and fast rule that says men must wear their watch on the left wrist. If wearing it on the right hand feels more natural, looks better with other accessories, or simply suits your style, there’s no reason you can’t switch it up. In the end, the wrist you choose says a lot about your personality and your willingness to follow or break tradition.

Which Hand Should a Woman Wear a Watch on? 

Interestingly, the social expectations for women’s watch-wearing have been different from those for men. Traditionally, women were more likely to wear their watch on their right hand, though there isn’t a clear reason why this trend emerged. Some say it’s to differentiate from men’s style, while others suggest it simply became a custom over time. 

Just like with men, though, this tradition is far from a rule. Women today should choose whichever wrist feels right for them. Some women might stick with the right wrist out of habit or preference, while others may find the left hand more comfortable or practical. 

As a female myself, I’m happy to admit my right wrist has always felt the most comfortable for my watches. It was a subconscious decision I made early on, and now I only ever put them on this wrist out of habit. But who knows, maybe I’ll mix it up more often. Ultimately, there’s no right or wrong wrist for a woman to wear her watch on; it should all be personal style and comfort.

Are There Psychological Reasons for Wearing a Watch on the Right or Left Hand?

This is where things get a little interesting and fun. Could the wrist you wear your watch on actually reveal clues about your personality, habits, and even your psychological makeup? Maybe… Psychology often weaves its way into the subtle choices we make, whether it’s our fashion sense or our favorite accessories. 

And yes, some people believe that the wrist you choose for your watch, left or right, could hint at certain personality traits or even offer insight into how you navigate life.

For example, since the majority of people (aka right-handers) tend to make the left wrist their default choice, these people are often associated with a sense of tradition and practicality. It’s a convenient choice, as we’ve already explained, since the left hand is less dominant, so the watch is less likely to get in the way of daily tasks. 

For that reason, those who stick with this classic placement might be seen as organized and maybe even planners at heart, often valuing order and routine.

You could also argue left wrist watch-wearers are less risk averse, choosing the “typical” wrist because they know it’s tried-and-true and keeps their watch more protected. Alternatively, it may just mean they are detail-oriented, as the traditional placement suggests they value efficiency and don’t feel the need to complicate things, especially when it comes to practical manners.

Wearing a watch on the right wrist, while less common, is still an option for many and can equally suggest a few things about that person. It could be that the person is simply left-handed, and wearing their timepiece on the right wrist just makes sense. Or it could be that they want to defy the norm and embrace a choice that’s different and unexpected. 

This alone reflects their confident personality and proves they value self-expression. It also hints at a bravery to go against the grain. Similarly, those who wear their watch on the right wrist might enjoy approaching things from new angles, bringing a fresh, unconventional mindset to everyday choices.

Interestingly, if you’re right-handed but choose to wear your watch on your right wrist, this could hint at an intentional embrace of self-expression. Maybe it’s a sign that you like to make even small choices of your own. 

Similarly, a left-handed person who wears their watch on the left might value comfort but isn’t afraid to endure a bit of awkwardness for the sake of blending in or sticking to what feels “right.”

In the end, whether these assumptions hold true depends entirely on the individual. But there’s something fun about the idea that even a small, everyday choice like which wrist to wear a watch on might reveal a glimpse into someone’s inner workings. 

So, if you’re rocking your watch on the “unexpected” wrist, maybe you’re subtly showing the world you’re not one to follow the crowd—or maybe you’re just all about making things work for you in your own way!

Conclusion 

At the end of the day, it really doesn’t matter which wrist you choose to wear your watch on. You should decide based on your own wants and needs. If you like to be influenced by tradition or you enjoy the practicality and comfort of wearing it on your left wrist, then do just that. Or, if you see yourself as more of a fashion-forward thinker who wants to stand out, choose your right. 

The beauty of watches is that it’s all about you and your personal style. They’re designed to be a reflection of our habits, preferences, and personalities, so wear your watch on the wrist that feels right for you. There are no rules when it comes to watchmaking, let alone watch-wearing, so enjoy the freedom of it and wear your timepiece without any rules.

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