Author: Charlotte H

Most of us have owned a watch or two in our lives, but usually, it’s something we grab for its stylish look or just to make sure we’re not late for work. Maybe it’s a trusty Seiko or a handsome Omega. But there’s a whole other world of watches out there, ones that don’t just keep time but also rake in millions of dollars at auction. 

If you’ve ever wondered what makes a tiny, ticking piece of machinery worth millions, then you’ve come to the right place. While most of us can’t imagine forking the cost of a mansion for something that fits our wrists, there are plenty of collectors and connoisseurs out there who are more than happy to drop millions at the drop of a gavel. 

These watches aren’t just about telling the time anymore; they’re about owning a piece of history, art, and, in some cases – or maybe even every case – status. 

But as you’d expect, the world’s most expensive watches ever sold at auction aren’t your run-of-the-mill wrist candy. These aren’t the kind of watches you’ll find in the window of any regular jewelers. 

These are watches that combine rarity, craftsmanship, and a touch of fame to create something almost completely one-of-a-kind. So, what exactly makes a watch rake in the big bucks? Is it all about diamonds and gold, or is there more to the story?

What Makes a Watch Fetch a High Auction Price?

So, what exactly makes a watch go from a cool, high-performing accessory to something worth more than an actual house? Well, to be honest, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer, and as you’ll soon find out, every watch has its own unique story and set of reasons for being valued so highly. But there are also a few key ingredients that can send a watch’s price tag souring. 

For starters, the rarity of a watch makes a big difference to its value. The fewer pieces made, the higher the price will likely be. Some watches are limited editions while others are one-of-a-kind, and buzzwords like this can get collectors salivating. 

To add to this, when a watch is made by some of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet, you’re also more likely going to hold sway in the auction world. These brands have been around for decades, even centuries, and have built a reputation for producing exceptional timepieces.

Complications are another thing to consider. In the watch world, complications refer to features beyond just telling time. These could be anything from a perpetual calendar to a moon phase indicator or even a split-second chronograph. The more complicated, the better. And the more people are willing to shell out. 

Similarly, materials help. Sure, gold and diamonds come to mind, but it’s also more about the craftsmanship and uniqueness of these materials that really add value. Some watches are made with super rare materials or are meticulously hand-crafted down to the smallest detail. When you’re dealing with that level of precision, you’re not just buying a watch but a work of art.

Finally, we need to talk about provenance. This is a fancy word for “who owned this thing before?” For example, a watch that once belonged to a celebrity or a historical figure is much more likely to sell for the same design that’s been sitting in a shop window for several years.  

Take the Omega Speedmaster, which belonged to astronaut Dave Scott, as an example. This was one he wore during the Apollo 15 mission, and it made history as the first privately owned timepiece to go to the moon. When it hit the auction block, it sold for a whopping $1.6 million. Personal connections and backstories are a game changer. 

Top 5 Watches Sold at Auction 

Now that we know what makes a watch sell for insane prices let’s dive into the watches that have broken all the records. Some of these have stories attached that are just as cool as the watches themselves. So, without further ado, let’s take a look at the top 5 most expensive watches ever sold at auction…

#1 Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime (ref. 6300A-010)

The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime (ref. 6300A-010) is a true masterpiece, breaking records when it sold for a staggering $31.19 million at the Only Watch Charity Auction in Geneva in 2019. What makes this watch so special? First, it’s the only Grandmaster Chime ever made in stainless steel—a material rarely used by Patek Philippe for its grand complications. 

It’s also a watch that features 20 complications – yes, that’s a lot. This includes an alarm that chimes the pre-set time and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. It’s also equipped with two dials housed in a reversible case, allowing the wearer to display either dial. 

With “The Only One” engraved on the case, it’s also a timepiece that oozes exclusivity and prestige. Combining its rarity, complexity, and the charitable cause behind its creation, the Grandmaster Chime stands as one of the most valuable watches ever sold.

#2 Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication (ref. 198.385) 

Another model from Patek Philippe is the Henry Graves Supercomplication (ref. 198.385). Created in 1933 for American banker Henry Graves Jr., this stunning timepiece features 24 complications, making it one of the most complex mechanical watches ever made. 

The watch took nearly five years to craft and remains a testament to Patek Philippe’s exceptional artistry and technical expertise. Its most notable features include a perpetual calendar, sunrise and sunset times, a moon phase indicator, and a minute repeater. 

The intricacy of its design is matched only by its beauty, with an elegant gold case adorned with exquisite engravings. In 2014, the Henry Graves Supercomplication was sold at auction for a jaw-dropping $24 million, making it the most expensive watch ever sold at the time.

#3 Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” (ref. 6239)

The Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” (ref. 6239) is arguably one of the most famous designs from the Swiss watch giant, and for good reason. Originally introduced in the 1960s, this watch gained its nickname thanks to the legendary actor and race car driver Paul Newman, who was often seen wearing it. The design featured an Art Deco-like dial with a cream backdrop and striking black sub-dials – a combination of details that remains a huge draw for collectors today. 

In addition to having a celebrity connection, the Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” was a rare timepiece, with only a limited number of people dressed in these specific aesthetic details. In 2017, a “Paul Newman” Daytona sold for an astounding $17 million at auction, making it one of the most expensive wristwatches ever sold. 

Today, many models have emerged that resemble the original Daytona, but none carry the same cachet. Even though these newer versions don’t fetch millions, they are still some of Rolex’s most coveted designs.

#4 Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 1518)

Our next legendary timepiece is the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 1518. Launched in 1941, this model was the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever to be produced in a series by a manufacturer. 

Its innovative perpetual calendar complication accurately tracks the date and accounts for leap years. But what makes the reference 1518 exceptionally rare is the fact that only four examples were ever produced in stainless steel. 

This unique material, combined with the watch’s already limited production, has elevated its status among collectors. In 2016, one of these steel models sold at auction for an astonishing $11 million. Other models with differing case materials have also been up for auction since, and although none have quite beaten their predecessor, they rarely fail to hit six figures. 

#5 Patek Philippe “Prince Mohammed Tewlik A. Toussou” (ref. 1518 with French calendar)

Yes, you read that right. Our final watch in today’s rundown is yet another Patek Philippe and another reference 1518. This release was also part of a limited production run, with only 14 known pink gold versions in existence. It’s also largely set apart by its unique French calendar, which adds a special charm to its already sophisticated design. 

In December 2021, the Patek Philippe “Prince Mohammed Tewlik A. Toussou” watch, named as such for the royal figure that owned it previously, made headlines when it sold for an impressive $9.57 million at a Sotheby’s auction in New York. Its combination of rich history, royal provenance, and the allure of its pink gold casing contributed to its elevated value.

Conclusion

So, there you have it, the five most expensive watches ever sold at auction. As we’ve hopefully demonstrated, these are watches that are famed for their high levels of craftsmanship, rarity, and history. 

From the unique Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime to the iconic Paul Newman Daytona, each piece has captivated collectors for their stunning designs and intricate complications and their connections to famous figures and pivotal moments in time. 

They may not be watches we’ll ever own personally, but it’s certainly fun to hear about their stories and the extraordinary price tags they’ve reached!

We’ll forgive you if you haven’t thought much about your watch’s crystal. At the end of the day, this thing is almost entirely transparent so it’s not going to be the first thing you notice. That clear thing covering the dial does a lot more than you might expect, however. But isn’t it just glass? Well, yes… and no. That “glass” is actually called watch crystal, and it does a lot more than just look pretty. 

It’s a little like your watch’s armor, and it greatly affects how tough your watch is, how clear the dial looks and importantly, how much you’ll be shelling out for the timepiece at checkout. If you’ve owned watches in the past, it’s likely you’ve noticed scratches popping up on some watch crystals more than others, or you’ve noticed some watch crystals looking perfectly clear while others can be a little cloudy. That’s because not all watch crystals are the same. 

In fact, there are three types of main watch crystal types: sapphire crystal, mineral crystal and acrylic. Each has its own superpowers and its own weaknesses, so the type you choose can make a real difference in your watch’s durability and aesthetic. In this guide, we’ll be breaking down these three crystal types for you. We’ll walk you through the pros and cons of each, so you can make the right decision for you when it comes to choosing your next timepiece.

The Acrylic Crystal 

Alright, let’s get into the wonderful, occasionally scratchy world of acrylic glass! I like to think of acrylic glass as the humble, hardworking, and slightly underappreciated material that covers the face of many watches. While it might not be as flashy as sapphire or as refined as mineral glass, acrylic is a classic choice for a reason.

 What Exactly Is Acrylic Glass? 

First things first, despite being called “acrylic glass,” it’s not glass at all. Acrylic is actually a type of plastic, specifically polymethyl methacrylate (or PMMA if you’re feeling fancy). You might also hear it called Plexiglas or plexiglass. It’s lightweight, clear as can be, and is used for watch crystals because it shares some glass-like optical properties while being a lot easier on the wallet. It’s been a go-to material in watchmaking for decades and is especially common in vintage watches since it was used a lot more regularly during the 70’s and 80’s.  

 A Quick History of Acrylic in Watchmaking 

Acrylic glass, or PMMA, was first developed in the 1920s by British chemists Rowland Hill and John Crawford, who were working with the company Imperial Chemical Industries. It was later introduced commercially in 1933 by the German company Röhm and Haas under the trade name Plexiglas. This material became especially popular due to its unique combination of transparency, durability, and lightweight properties, mimicking the appearance of glass but with greater resistance to impact and lower cost. 

Its early uses were mainly industrial and military. For example, during World War II, acrylic glass was widely used in aircraft canopies, submarine periscopes, and even gun turrets, valued for its impact resistance and transparency. After the war, acrylic became more accessible and was adapted for consumer products, including watch crystals. It first appeared on watches around the 1950s, and quickly became a standard material, especially throughout the 1970s and 1980s. 

Pros of Acrylic Glass 

·       Impact Resistance – One of the top reasons acrylic has stuck around for so long is its durability. Unlike glass, which can crack or shatter, acrylic is more flexible and can absorb a hit without falling to pieces. This makes it ideal for sports or outdoor watches and any watch likely to see some rough handling. It’s why a lot of smartwatch brands tend to use acrylic glass on their designs, because it’s best for those that like to go hiking or jump out of planes. It can take a beating without flinching.

·       Light as a Feather – Acrylic glass is noticeably lighter than other crystal materials like mineral glass or sapphire, making it super comfortable to wear. If you’re after an everyday watch that doesn’t feel like a weight on your wrist, acrylic is a solid choice. Less weight on your wrist means it’s most likely going to be more comfortable.

·       Cost-Effective Choice – Acrylic glass is cheaper to produce than other crystal types, so it’s often found in more affordable watches. This means you can get a stylish, functional watch without spending a fortune, which is great news for newcomers to the watch world or anyone looking to expand their collection on a budget.

·       Easy to Polish – While acrylic might scratch more easily than other materials (we’ll get to that in a minute), it has a secret weapon: you can polish those scratches away! With a little bit of polishing, acrylic crystals can be buffed back to clear, like-new condition. No need for costly replacements or worrying about every little nick or scuff—just polish, and it’s like they were never there. 

Cons of Acrylic Glass

·       Scratch-Prone – Despite acrylic happily taking a strong hit without cracking, it can be pretty easy to scratch. Toss it in your pocket with your keys, or brush it up against a rough surface, and it’s likely to come away with a few marks. But as we mentioned earlier, scratches on acrylic are generally fixable with a quick polish. However, if you’re someone who wants a completely scratch-free watch face all the time, acrylic might drive you a little nuts.

·       Looks a Bit “Cheap” – At the end of the day, acrylic is plastic, and it sometimes lacks the high-end look that mineral or sapphire crystal can give a watch. Especially when you hold it up next to sapphire, it can seem a little less sophisticated or luxe. That said, plenty of watch lovers appreciate the retro, warm look that acrylic gives, so this really comes down to personal taste.

The Mineral Crystal

Now, let’s talk about mineral glass, the reliable middle ground of watch crystals. Mineral glass is probably the most common glass you’ll find on mid-range watches, giving you a solid blend of durability, affordability, and clarity.

What Exactly is Mineral Glass?

This time mineral glass is, as its name suggests, a type of glass. But it’s not just any old glass like what our drinking glasses are made of. It’s toughened up with a process called tempering (or hardening) where the glass is heated to high temperatures and then cooled rapidly. This treatment strengthens the glass, making it harder and more resistant to scratches and impacts than regular glass. It won’t take on sapphire crystal in terms of hardness, but it’s got way more scratch resistance than acrylic.

A Quick History of Mineral Glass

Mineral glass began making its way into watches during the mid-20th century, as watchmakers were looking for a stronger alternative to acrylic that was still cost-effective. By the 1970s and 1980s, mineral glass was all over the place in the watch world, quickly becoming the industry standard for most mid-range models. Its clarity, scratch resistance, and lower price point helped mineral glass become a favorite among both brands and buyers alike. Interestingly, there is no inventor credited to the creation of mineral glass but many accessible watch brands, like Seiko and Citizen, are known for playing a significant role in popularizing the material.

Pros of Mineral Glass

·       Scratch Resistance – One of mineral glass’s big selling points is its scratch resistance. While not as tough as sapphire, mineral glass is sturdy enough to handle everyday knocks and scrapes without showing too much wear. If you’re careful with your watch but still want something resilient enough for regular use, mineral glass strikes a good balance. It’s definitely more scratch-resistant than acrylic, so it doesn’t need constant touch-ups to stay looking nice and clear.

·       Cost-Effective – Mineral glass is affordable to produce, which keeps prices down on watches that use it. This makes it a popular choice for budget-conscious watch collectors who want durability without breaking the bank. You get a quality crystal that offers some resistance to scratching and impact, all while keeping your wallet happy.

·       Clear as Day – Mineral glass is known for its optical clarity, allowing you to see your watch’s dial and hands clearly. In some cases, it’s even coated with an anti-reflective (AR) layer, so you get an extra-clear view without those annoying reflections. This is especially nice if you’re outdoors a lot or tend to check the time in bright settings, as it keeps the dial sharp and easy to read.

Cons of Mineral Glass

·       Prone to Scratches (Eventually) – While mineral glass is more scratch-resistant than acrylic, it’s not invincible. With daily wear, it may eventually collect some fine scratches, especially if you’re around abrasive surfaces a lot. Unlike acrylic, which can be polished back to perfection, mineral glass scratches are tough to remove, so it’s best to be a little cautious if you want it to stay pristine.

·       Risk of Breaking and Shattering – Mineral glass is toughened, but it’s still glass at the end of the day. Under heavy impact, it can crack or shatter, which makes it a bit more vulnerable than sapphire, which has both greater scratch and shatter resistance. If you’re looking for ultimate durability and are willing to invest a little more, you might want to consider sapphire instead.

The Sapphire Crystal

Finally, we have sapphire crystal glass which, to be completely honest, it the crème-de-la-crème of watch crystals. It’s known for being insanely tough, ultra-scratch resistant and has a beautiful sheen to it that makes reading watch dials effortless. Its hardness is only second to diamonds (the hardest material known to man).

What Exactly Is Sapphire Crystal?

Sapphire crystal isn’t glass, but a synthetic material made from aluminum oxide which is the same stuff as sapphire gemstones. But rather than being blue or pink as we best know sapphires, it is its clearest form. To make it, they use a process called the Verneuil method which involves heating up aluminum oxide crystals to super-high temperatures and then forming them into a transparent, super-durable material. Then it’s cut, polished, and shaped to fit your watch.

A Quick History of Sapphire Crystal

Sapphire crystal was introduced during the early 1900’s but was originally used for industrial purposes, like in scientific instruments and camera lenses. It wasn’t until the 1960s and 70s that watchmakers started catching on and using it for watch crystals. It’s thought that one of the first watches to use sapphire crystal was Jaeger-LeCoultre in the 1930’s with the Swiss watchmaker placing it on their iconic Reverso watch. But really, it was Rolex that first used it extensively, spurring the material to be a widespread material with models like the Rolex Daytona in the 1980’s. Today, sapphire crystal is incredibly popular in many watches, notably those in the luxury category.

Pros of Sapphire Crystal

·       Harder Than a Rock: Seriously, sapphire crystal is tough. It ranks a 9 on the Mohs scale (with the diamond ranked at 10), which means it’s almost impossible to scratch. Owning a sapphire crystal watch means you rarely have to worry about getting any scratches or cracks at all.

·       Crystal Clear: Sapphire crystal is known for its amazing clarity. You’ll get no fog, no distortion – just a perfect, clear view of your watch dial. It’s like looking through a sheet of glass that’s been perfectly polished.

·       Low Maintenance: Unlike acrylic and mineral glass, which can scratch over time, sapphire stays flawless for way longer. That means fewer trips to the watch shop for polishing and cleaning.

·       Chemical Resistant: We’re all prone to being a little clumsy, so if you accidently splash coffee or hand sanitizer on your watch, you can feel assured that sapphire crystal is resistant to most chemicals.

·       That Luxe Look: Finally, watches with sapphire crystal just look more premium. It has this beautiful shine that gives the watch a high-end vibe. This is especially clear when you place a sapphire crystal watch next to one made of acrylic.

Cons of Sapphire Crystal

·       A Little Brittle: Despite sapphire crystal being incredibly hard, it’s not entirely “shatterproof.” It could still chip or crack if you drop it or hit it hard against a solid surface. So, as tough as it is on scratches, it’s a little more delicate in the impact department.

·       Price Tag: Sapphire crystal is expensive to make. So, watches with sapphire crystal are generally pricier. It’s why you’ll always find sapphire crystal glass on top-end watches like those from Omega, Rolex and Patek Phillippe. It’s the best of the best, so it’s used by the best of the best.

·   No Fixing Scratches: Unlike acrylic glass, which can be polished if it gets a scratch, sapphire doesn’t really “polish” the same way. Once it gets a scratch, you’re stuck with it until you’re willing to replace the entire crystal.

Why is the Watch Crystal Important?

That clear shiny piece of crystal that sits on top of your watch dial is incredibly important, we promise. It might seem like a small thing, but the right crystal can make a huge difference to how your watch wears, looks and lasts.

First off, watch crystals are your watch’s first line of defense. It’s the material that will take the hit when you accidentally knock your watch on a doorframe or drop it on the floor. If you pick a cheap, soft crystal like acrylic, you’re likely going to be dealing with scratches every few months. On the other hand, sapphire crystal is almost indestructible. It won’t get scratched up anywhere near as easily, keeping your watch looking fresh and sharp for much longer.

Next, there’s clarity. If you want a watch that looks as clear and shiny as it does in the store, you’ve got to think about the crystal. Sapphire gives you an unbeatable view of the dial with no distortion. Mineral glass and acrylic glass are still breathtakingly clear, but since they scratch a lot easier, they can eventually get an almost “hazy” effect which will in turn affect the legibility of the dial.

Then there’s the cost. Sure, you might love the idea of rocking a Grand Seiko with sapphire crystal, but if you’re on a budget, mineral glass or even acrylic might be the way to go. Just keep in mind that these cheaper options may scratch more easily and might need some more TLC. Instead, if you’re someone who wants low-maintenance gear, then investing in sapphire might save you hassle in the long run.

Finally, style matters too. Watch crystal plays a big role in the aesthetics of your watch. A crystal with that perfect shine with little to not scratches will undoubtedly elevate the whole vibe of your watch.

Conclusion

At the end of the day, the type of watch crystal that’s best for you really depends on your personal style, lifestyle, and budget. If it were me, I’d save up a bit more for sapphire crystal since it’s super durable, scratch-resistant, and looks amazing. But I totally get that not everyone wants to drop that much on a watch, and that’s okay. Acrylic and mineral glass can still look great and hold up well if you take care of them. It’s all about finding the right balance that works for you.

You wouldn’t walk around in shoes two sizes too big nor a hat so small it gives you a headache, so why would you wear a watch that isn’t properly sized to your wrist? If you’re here, you’re likely thinking about getting a new watch, or maybe you’ve just picked one up, and now you’re wondering if it’s the right size for your frame. 

The right-sized watch can make all the difference. Sure, comfort is essential because, at the end of the day, you’re likely going to be wearing this timepiece for days at a time – so it needs to feel good. But it’s also about balance and aesthetics. 

A watch that looks obviously too big for you will look out of place and most likely be uncomfortable. Equally, a watch too small will feel awkward and might get lost on your wrist, making it look less like a statement piece and more like an afterthought. 

If you’re spending your hard-earned money on a luxury timepiece, it deserves to look right, giving you that sharp and stylish vibe you’re after. So, how do you find the perfect-sized watch for your wrist? And what’s the best way to measure your wrist for a watch? Join us as we walk you through everything you need to know to become a wrist-sizing pro.

Why is a Proper Watch Size Important?

At the end of the day, I truly believe you should wear whatever watch you want. If someone says a particular timepiece looks too big on you, but you love the look of it – go for it. It’s the same if you’re someone with a big frame but adore the vibe of a small, vintage-inspired timepiece. 

If you like it, then the rest doesn’t matter. That said, your watch does deserve to be comfortable, and we’d hate for you to shop online and spend money on a watch that ultimately doesn’t look right in person. 

For starters, the size of your watch will largely dictate how comfortable it sits on your skin. If the watch is too big, it might feel bulky, slide around, and even get in the way. It also won’t look great, making your wrist look like it’s drowning in a sea of metal and leather. On the other hand, if it’s too small, it might pinch, look out of place, and generally feel awkward. 

My biggest piece of advice when trying a watch on for size is to think like this: your watch should feel like an extension of your arm and not something that is constantly making you aware of its presence. 

Don’t get me wrong, it’s fine to have a watch that stands out in other ways, whether that’s with a unique case design or a bright-colored dial, but when it comes to size, it’s best to wear something that fits properly so you can enjoy it as you go about your day.

Plus, wearing the right watch size means your timepiece will last longer because it won’t be constantly slipping, knocking, or getting caught on things. If you’re spending good money on a luxury timepiece, it deserves to be well taken care of, and one of the best ways to do that is to ensure it sits snugly and safely on your wrist.

How to Determine Your Wrist Size 

Before you start shopping for a watch or making adjustments to a timepiece you already own, you need to know your wrist size. It’s super easy to figure out, and there are plenty of options in case you’re limited with the tools you have at hand. Here are the three most common methods for figuring out your wrist size.

Using a Piece of String

Using a piece of string to figure out your wrist size is probably one of the easiest methods. You don’t need any fancy tools, just a piece of string or a thin piece of paper and a ruler.  

Step 1: Start by grabbing your string or paper strip and wrapping it around your wrist where you’d normally wear your watch. Make sure the string is snug but not too tight. You want to simulate how the watch will sit.

Step 2: Use a pencil to mark where the string or paper overlaps to get your wrist circumference.

Step 3: Lay the string or paper flat on a table and measure the length with a rule.

This method is great for getting a quick measurement and is super easy to do. However, just be careful, as it’s not always the most accurate since strings can stretch or twist. Still, if you’re in a pinch, it can work just fine!

Using a Measuring Tape

For a more accurate reading, use a soft measuring tape. No, not the metal kind you use in construction, but the soft, ribbon-like version that is used by tailors. This way, it’ll mold effortlessly around your wrist and give you a quick and easy reading of your wrist size.

Step 1: Grab a flexible measuring tape and wrap it around your wrist at the point where you would wear your watch.

Step 2: Note the measurement where the tape meets the zero point.

This option is great for getting your wrist size down to the millimeter. It’s precise, and there’s no need to worry about guesstimating or accidentally stretching anything.

Using an Online Watch Size Guide

Thanks to the magic of the internet, there are also plenty of watch size guides and tools available online. These guides often let you print out a ruler or a wrist measuring guide that you can wrap around your wrist for an accurate measurement.

Some websites even offer calculators where you can enter your wrist size, and they’ll recommend the perfect watch diameter for your wrist. But remember, tools like this are just guidelines, and they shouldn’t stop you from wearing oversized or undersized watches if that’s the look you like.

Step 1: Find an online watch size guide and print it out. Just make sure it’s printed to scale!

Step 2: Cut out the wrist-sizing strip and wrap it around your wrist, following the instructions.

Step 3: Record the measurement and compare it to their watch size recommendations.

The advantage of using an online guide is that they often provide not just wrist circumference but also suggest the ideal watch case diameter for your wrist size. This way, you get both the fit and the look that works for you.

How to Size Your Watch Bands

Just as the diameter and thickness of your watch’s case are important, the sizing of your watch band is essential to make sure your timepiece sits comfortably and looks the part. Watch straps come in different styles and materials and require a different approach to sizing depending on which one you choose. Here’s how to get the right fit for a few of the most popular watch band styles:

Leather and Fabric Straps

Leather and fabric straps usually come with a series of holes punched in the strap. To size these, simply adjust the buckle to a hole that feels snug but not tight. 

You should be able to fit a finger between your wrist and the band, but the watch shouldn’t be sliding around. If you find that none of the pre-punched holes give you the perfect fit, don’t worry. Many watch stores and jewelers can punch additional holes to customize the fit for you.

Metal Bracelets

Sizing metal bracelets is generally a little trickier than simply adjusting the buckle into the next hole on a leather or fabric strap. They often need to be resized by adding or removing links. 

If you’re not comfortable doing this yourself, you can always drop your watch off with a local jeweler who will be able to do it for you. Alternatively, you can try it yourself. It’s a good skill to learn, especially if you’re into your watches!

To resize your metal bracelet, try on your watch as it comes to see how it fits with all the links intact. If it’s too loose, you’ll need to remove some of the links. If it’s too tight, you’ll need to add in some extras. Every metal bracelet is different, so before you begin resizing, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions.

Typically, the bracelet’s links will be held together using small pins. These can be removed using a clever tool called a pin pusher. We recommend removing links evenly on both sides of the clasp to keep the watch balanced. The same goes for adding extra links. 

The goal is to have the watch snug enough that it doesn’t spin on your wrist but not so tight that it pinches or leaves marks when you take it off again. Again, a good rule of thumb is to be able to slip one finger comfortably between the band and your wrist.

Rubber or Silicone Straps

Rubber and silicone straps are popular watch bands for sports watches, and many of them come with the same hole-and-buckle system as leather straps. 

Some even allow you to trim the excess strap for a customized fit. Like leather straps, you want a snug but comfortable fit. And again, you should be able to slip a finger under the strap without it feeling too loose or too tight.

What Does a “Good Fit” Feel Like?

At the end of the day, finding the right fit is all about personal preference and personal comfort. But as with everything, there are a few key things to keep in mind to ensure your watch fits right. 

First, you want the watch to feel snug but never too tight. It should sit securely on your wrist without leaving deep marks or causing discomfort after wearing it for a while. A well-fitted watch should almost feel like it’s not even there. It should be secure but unobtrusive. If you take it off and find red indentations, that’s a sign the band is too tight and needs to be adjusted.

Another important factor to consider is to make sure there’s no slipping. The worst thing that can happen is your watch slides off entirely so that it becomes lost or damaged. Even having it slide upside down could lead the watch to hit something hard and become scratched or marked. 

A properly fitted watch should stay in place as you go about your day rather than spinning around your wrist or sliding up and down your arm. This is particularly true for heavier watches, where too much movement can be distracting and uncomfortable. You want the watch to feel stable, resting comfortably on the wrist but without any restrictive tightness.

Lastly, when it comes to watches with metal bracelets, balance is key. The weight of the watch should be evenly distributed across your wrist. If too many links are removed from one side of the bracelet, the watch can feel off-kilter, which not only looks awkward but can also affect comfort. Achieving that perfect balance will make the watch feel lighter and more natural on your wrist.

Getting the fit just right isn’t only about comfort, but it also prolongs the life of your watch. A band that’s too tight will wear down faster, and a loose watch is more prone to getting knocked or scratched. Sizing your watch correctly ensures you get the best possible wearing experience while keeping your timepiece in great shape for the long haul.

Conclusion

Your wrist size is one of those things you don’t think of first when shopping for watches. And rightly so! It’s much more fun to focus on things like the case material, dial color, and even the mesmerizing movement of working hard inside. But trust me, watch size also makes a difference, and it’s a detail you’ll have to consider at some point.

Wearing a watch that fits well is the difference between feeling polished and professional and constantly fiddling with your timepiece. 

We recommend starting your watch-collecting journey by measuring your wrist, whether that’s by using a piece of string, a measuring tape, or an online guide, so you can get a good idea of the kind of watch that will best suit your frame. Once you’ve got all that information and you know how to adjust the watch strap when it arrives with you, you have everything you need to enjoy your watch to its full potential.

I’m quite happy to admit I’m a Seiko fan girl. The majority of my collection is made up of designs from this Japanese watchmaker, including several 5 Sports, Presage, Prospex, and Grand Seiko models. But most of the watches I own aren’t actually marketed towards my wrist. 

By this, I mean these watches are typically 38mm or above in diameter – but as a lover of an oversized timepiece, this isn’t something that puts me off at all. But, since Seiko and their luxury counterpart company, Grand Seiko, lack a lot of smaller women-orientated watches, it has sadly meant a lot of women – and men with smaller than average wrists – have missed out on an opportunity to wear one of these incredible timepieces. 

That’s not to say there are no 35mm and below Grand Seiko watches out there because there are. But the selections are a little limited. It’s why you’ll often find small-wristed folk opting for the wider selections of women’s watches offered by the likes of Rolex, Omega, and Longines. 

This is a shame because more women deserve to own and wear the beauty of a Grand Seiko watch. So, if there was one Grand Seiko ladies watch worth a second look, which one would it be? In my opinion, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 is up there on the list.

The Importance of a Grand Seiko Ladies Snowflake

Okay, so let’s talk about the Grand Seiko Snowflake dial and why bringing the crisp white textured centerpiece into a lady’s watch was one of the best decisions Grand Seiko could have made. 

The Snowflake, originally launched in 2010, captured the hearts of watch lovers all around the world with its unique dial that beautifully resembles the look of freshly fallen snow. The texture is delicate yet strikingly beautiful, representing the serene beauty of winter in Japan. 

Because of its unique look, the Grand Seiko Snowflake watch has since become one of the Japanese watchmaker’s best-selling timepieces. But sadly, before the launch of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 I’m reviewing today, the dial was typically housed within cases of 38mm to 40mm wide. 

So, by introducing a women’s version of the Snowflake, Grand Seiko has not only satiated those of us with smaller wrists but also opened the door for more women to step into the extraordinary world of Grand Seiko and, in turn, fall in love with more Grand Seiko watches. 

It’s a genius move from Grand Seiko if you ask me. It’s not just about creating a smaller watch – which, of course, we all appreciate – but it’s also about inviting more women into the landscape of luxury horology, allowing more people to appreciate the craftsmanship and elegance that Grand Seiko represents.

Grand Seiko’s Smallest Case

So since one of the biggest selling points of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is its dimensions, let’s start there. This release is one of Grand Seiko’s smallest dress watches, sized at 28.9mm wide and with a thickness of just 8.7mm. It also has a compact lug-to-lug width of 35.4mm. It wears incredibly well on my five-and-a-half-inch wrist, feeling comfortable and unobstructive. 

Without naming names, there are several watch brands I know of that tend to skimp on some of the finer details of their women’s watches. Thankfully, Grand Seiko is not one of them. They’ve constructed the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch with all the high levels of detailing and finishing you’d expect to find on their larger men’s watches. 

For starters, the case is almost entirely Zaratsu polished, a meticulous process that involves hand-polishing each surface to achieve a flawless, mirror-like finish. It’s a technique that takes up to three years to learn, seeing talented artisans hold the precious stainless steel metal against a spinning tin plate at a precise angle and with just the right amount of pressure. 

In addition to the Zaratsu polishing, there are also satin-brushed elements, mainly on the bracelet and the tops of the gently curved lugs. These satin-brushed finishes introduce a subtle contrast to the polished surfaces, adding depth and complexity to the overall design. This combination of finishes helps to enhance the dressy appeal of the design, bringing most of your attention to the bright polished surfaces. 

In a similar fashion, the dual-curved sapphire crystal glass placed on top cleverly brings your attention to the Snowflake dial at the center. The glass, with its seamless flow from case to dial, enhances the overall aesthetic and places the unique textures and details front and center. 

Sapphire crystal glass is also well-known for its durability and scratch resistance, making it ideal for those of you who want a luxury watch that will last. The inner surface features a layer of anti-reflective coating to help minimize glare, which helps you appreciate the snow-like texture of the dial even further without any distractions. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is completed by a gently knurled crown at 3 o’clock engraved with the GS logo and a screw-down case back beautifully embossed with the Japanese brand’s logo and their iconic lion emblem in relief. 

Together, the crown and case back warrant a healthy 100-meter water resistance, so having this watch out in the rain or on the wrist while watching dishes won’t be a problem.

The Snowflake Dial

While the case dimensions of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch are certainly a major attraction for those of us with smaller wrists, the real star of the show is, without a doubt, the iconic Snowflake dial. 

This mesmerizing dial has become synonymous with Grand Seiko, arguably putting the brand on the map for many collectors. What I truly appreciate about this watch is that Grand Seiko has ensured that the women’s version is just as spectacular as the men’s offerings without any compromises in design or craftsmanship. 

The Snowflake dial maintains the classic aesthetic that collectors adore, with its enchanting texture that mirrors freshly fallen snow. It’s one of those dials that draws you in, captivating your attention and mesmerizing you. Honestly, it can be a bit dangerous for me to wear a watch like this, as I often find myself staring at it rather than focusing on whatever task is at hand! 

Another thing I love about the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch’s dial is the simplicity of its layout. Unlike some of the larger models in the Snowflake family, this model doesn’t feature a power reserve indicator between the 7 and 8 o’clock marker. Instead, this release focuses solely on presenting the time and date. 

This design choice was probably forced upon Grand Seiko’s designers due to the lack of room available on such a small watch. But I’m glad that was the case since it’s a choice that adds to the watch’s elegance and allows the texture of the dial to take center stage. 

In keeping with Grand Seiko’s commitment to craftsmanship, all the hands and markers on the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359’s dial are Zaratsu polished, contributing to its luxurious feel. The hour and minute hands are elegantly shaped, sharp, and sword-like, catching the light beautifully as they sweep across the dial. 

Each hour marker is hand-faceted, showcasing the meticulous attention to detail that Grand Seiko is renowned for. The seconds hand is the only real touch of color, finished in stunning blued steel. Finally, the border around the date is polished and outlined in silver, framing the black-on-white date wheel with precision.

A Highly Accurate Quartz Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 is powered by the Caliber 4J52 movement, a quartz caliber crafted in-house by Seiko. I have to be honest; part of me feels a little disappointed that they released this Snowflake women’s watch with a quartz movement instead of a mechanical one. 

After all, Grand Seiko is renowned for its exceptional mechanical watches, and it would have been a dream to see this stunning design powered by none other than a Spring Drive movement. However, the 4J52 is a trusted quartz caliber with impressive accuracy, with a deviation of no more than ±10 seconds per day.

This precision is a significant selling point for the watch, making it an excellent choice for those who appreciate reliability in their timepieces. Plus, it’s one of the reasons this particular Grand Seiko model is among the most affordable options in the lineup. While I would have loved to see a mechanical movement here, I understand the considerations at play. The Spring Drive mechanism, while brilliant, has certain limitations in terms of size.

For now, I’m content to embrace the accuracy and dependability of the Caliber 4J52. It provides peace of mind that I won’t be constantly adjusting the time, plus I can easily take it off the wrist for several days at a time without ever having to twist the crown or shake up the movement to get its power pumping. And who knows, perhaps one day Seiko will create a smaller version of their Spring Drive for us small-wristed folk.

Straps

The stainless steel bracelet is a nice and expected complement to the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch. It is predominantly engineered with satin-brushed surfaces and Zaratsu polished sides that catch the light beautifully. The polished sides are a particularly nice touch, especially for their slightly rounded silhouette, which not only ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist but adds an extra touch of luxury and sophistication to the design.

Following the classic Oyster design, this bracelet is narrower than standard GS models, which suits the delicate nature of the women’s Snowflake watch perfectly. The links lead down to a standard folding clasp embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. 

It’s worth noting that the clasp lacks micro-adjust holes, which could make finding that perfect fit a bit more challenging. However, the design does come with drilled lugs, so strap changes are made easy. That means that if you want to switch things up, you can easily find alternative straps, like a nice leather band, to fit the 14mm lug width without problem.

On-Wrist Experience

Finally, let’s discuss how the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 wears on the wrist and how it felt on me this past week. First of all, this watch is ideal for everyday practicality. 

It’s barely noticeable on the wrist when your sleeves are rolled down thanks to the compact dimensions  — 28.9mm in diameter, 35.4mm lug-to-lug, and only 8.7mm in thickness – and the quartz movement. It’s almost weightless because of the latter, allowing it to disappear seamlessly on the wrist.

And yet, despite this, once the sleeves are rolled up, that Snowflake dial has a quiet confidence that attracts just the right amount of attention. The beautiful crisp white texture is a sight to behold, and during my time wearing this model, I received so many compliments on it. 

Because of this, although it wears effortlessly as a daily beater, you could easily get away with using this as a formal dress watch too. In fact, it’s the perfect one-watch collection, working well for pretty much any situation.

As for what wrist size best suits the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch, that ultimately comes down to how prominent you want the watch to appear. I have a five-and-a-half inch wrist, and it sat perfectly on my arm without feeling over or undersized. 

If you have smaller wrists and love something even daintier, then this would be the perfect watch for you. On the other hand, if you have large wrists but love the vintage look a small watch gives, then you’ll love it just as equally.

Price & Availability

As previously mentioned, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is one of the Japanese watch manufacturer’s most affordable models, retailing brand new for $2,300. If you want to purchase this model brand new, a quick word of warning: be sure to order from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. 

At least then, you’ll know you’re getting a genuine Grand Seiko watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. This is a watch also available on the second-hand market, typically selling for around $1,500. The watch remains a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s women’s collection and is not a limited edition.

Conclusion

If you couldn’t tell, I think the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is beautiful and well-thought-out. But most importantly, I think it’s a wonderfully significant addition to the watch world. It brings one of the industry’s most coveted dials to women in a beautiful, compact form. 

This design not only satisfies collectors like myself but also entices new female enthusiasts into the horological community. Could this watch be improved by a mechanical movement? Yes. But do its small dimensions and insanely reasonable price point make up for that? Absolutely.

Ask any watch collector or self-confessed timepiece enthusiast. We guarantee they’ll be more than happy to talk about mechanical watches, probably for hours, and explain to you just how innovative and breathtaking these timeless pieces are. 

Whether manually wound or powered by the movement of your wrist, mechanical watches have remained a symbol of craftsmanship and precision since their birth. Unlike quartz watches, which rely on a battery, mechanical watches utilize several intricate components to keep time.

So, just in case you’re new to the world of horology – that’s the fancy word for the art of watchmaking – and you don’t have an avid watch connoisseur in your life, let us guide you through all there is to know about mechanical watches including how they work, their history and how best to maintain then.

The Basics of a Mechanical Watch

Ok, so before we get into the nitty-gritty details of how a mechanical watch works, let’s first cover the basics. At the heart of any watch, there is something called a movement. This is the technology used to make the hands tick seamlessly around the dial so you can read the correct time. There are two key types of watch movements: quartz and mechanical.

Quartz watches are those powered by a small battery that needs replacing every couple of years. The battery relies on electricity and the properties of a quartz crystal, allowing quartz watches to be incredibly accurate and low maintenance. Mechanical watches, on the other hand, work completely differently. They don’t use batteries but instead rely on a series of tiny moving parts to keep time.

There are two types of mechanical movements: manual winding and automatic. Manual winding watches need to be wound by hand. You turn the crown (the little knob on the side of the watch), and this winds a component called the mainspring. As the mainspring unwinds, it releases stored energy that powers the movement, keeping the watch ticking. 

Automatic watches work similarly, except they have a small, semi-circular weight inside called a rotor, which winds the mainspring automatically as you wear the watch. The natural motion of your wrist makes the rotor spin, keeping the watch wound without you needing to do anything. If you wear it daily, it’ll keep ticking forever.

It’s these tiny, intricate parts that make a mechanical movement truly special. As you’ve probably realized, the mainspring is one of the most important components, as it’s this that needs winding to power the watch. 

It works by winding up and storing the energy needed to fuel the other components. This energy is then transmitted through the gear train, an escapement and a balance wheel, all of which work together to ensure the watch runs steadily and accurately.

History of Mechanical Watches

Mechanical watches date back centuries, with some of the first recorded mechanical clocks emerging from Europe during the late 13th century. But these were large tower clocks and not the wristwatches we know today. 

It wasn’t until the 16th century that the components of mechanical movements were made small enough to fit into portable, wearable watches. Some of the earliest mechanical watches were powered by a mechanism called the Verge escapement, an innovation that helped watches become more compact and wearable.

The first true mechanical watch was developed by Peter Henlein, a German locksmith, around 1510. His invention, often credited as the first portable timepiece, was a spring-powered pocket watch. However, it was far from accurate— as you’d expect for the world’s first-ever attempt. Instead, these early watches were mostly decorative, meant to showcase wealth rather than tell precise time.

Accuracy in mechanical watches became a major focus in the 18th century. John Harrison, an English carpenter and clockmaker, invented the marine chronometer, which revolutionized timekeeping as we know it. 

His device allowed sailors to determine longitude at sea, a breakthrough in navigation. This leap in precision marked the beginning of mechanical watches being valued not just for their beauty but for their accuracy.

As time went on, mechanical watch movements continued to evolve. The COSC certification (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) was introduced to set a high standard for accuracy in Swiss watches. 

To receive COSC certification, a mechanical watch must meet strict criteria, such as keeping time within -4 to +6 seconds per day, a mark of precision that separates ordinary watches from exceptional ones. Having a COSC-certified watch means you have the confidence your fancy wristwatch has passed several rigorous tests to prove its timekeeping abilities.

Today, mechanical watchmaking has reached entirely new heights with innovations like the Zenith El Primero. Launched in 1969, this has become famed for being the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. It not only automated the winding process but also boasted a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, making it one of the most precise mechanical movements of its time. 

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive is another notable innovation. This engineering marvel has somehow combined the mainspring of a mechanical movement with the electronic regulator of a quartz one. This hybrid technology allows for a completely smooth seconds hand and near-perfect precision.

Operating a Mechanical Movement

Until you’ve seen one up close, it’s difficult to explain just how incredible and innovative mechanical watch movements are. But we’ll try our best! 

These miniature marvels of engineering are powered by hundreds of tiny parts that all work together to keep the time showing on the dial accurate. Let’s break down the key parts of a mechanical watch and see how they work together to create a functioning timepiece.

The Mainspring

Many will agree that the mainspring is the heart of a mechanical watch. It’s a long, thin strip of metal wound tightly into a coil, and its job is to store energy. In a manual winding watch, you wind the watch by turning the crown, which tightens the mainspring. In an automatic watch, the winding happens naturally as you move your wrist, thanks to a rotor inside the watch that spins and winds the spring. 

As the mainspring unwinds, it releases the stored energy. The more tightly it’s wound, the more energy it stores, and the longer the watch can run. A fully wound mainspring can typically power a watch for about 40 hours, though some high-end watches offer much longer power reserves. The energy released by the mainspring powers the entire movement. 

However, it doesn’t release all the energy at once, but it does so slowly, over time. The process of controlling this energy flow is where the rest of the watch’s components come into play.

The Gear Train

Once the mainspring begins to release energy, it sends it through the gear train, a series of small gears that transmit the energy throughout the movement. These gears reduce the speed of the energy unwinding from the mainspring so that the hands on the watch move at the correct speed. 

At the start of the gear train, energy is moving very fast, but by the time it reaches the hands of the watch, it has been slowed down enough to turn the second, minute, and hour hands at their proper speeds. The gear train ensures that one complete rotation of the minute hand happens every 60 minutes and one rotation of the hour hand happens every 12 hours.

The Escapement

The escapement is another super important component of a mechanical watch because it controls the release of energy from the mainspring. Without it, the mainspring would unwind too quickly, and the watch would lose all its energy in seconds. 

The escapement acts almost like a gatekeeper, releasing tiny amounts of energy in controlled intervals. This gives the watch its steady “tick-tock” rhythm. It also works in conjunction with the balance wheel (which we’ll get to next) to regulate the speed at which the gears turn and the hands move.

In most mechanical watches, the escapement consists of two main parts: the escape wheel and the pallet fork. The escape wheel is connected to the gear train, and the pallet fork alternately locks and unlocks it, allowing the wheel to move forward one step at a time. 

Each time the escape wheel moves, a tiny burst of energy is sent to the rest of the movement, allowing the gears to turn in perfect time.

The Balance Wheel

Working closely with the escapement is the balance wheel, which is like the watch’s pendulum. The balance wheel oscillates back and forth at a constant rate, and this regular motion helps the escapement release energy in evenly spaced intervals. Attached to the balance wheel is a tiny, coiled spring called the hairspring or balance spring. 

As the balance wheel swings in one direction, the hairspring tightens. Then, it loosens, pushing the balance wheel back in the opposite direction. This process repeats over and over, giving the watch its rhythm. 

The oscillations of the balance wheel, typically 18,000 to 36,000 beats per hour, determine how quickly the escapement can unlock and release energy. The faster the balance wheel oscillates, the more precise the watch will be.

The Dial Train and Hands

The dial train is a series of gears that takes the controlled energy from the escapement and balance wheel and uses it to drive the hands of the watch. It reduces the speed of the gear train so that the second, minute, and hour hands move at their respective speeds. 

For example, the second hand completes one full rotation every 60 seconds, the minute hand completes one rotation every 60 minutes, and the hour hand completes one rotation every 12 hours. The dial train ensures that these rotations happen precisely and smoothly.

The Rotor (for Automatic Watches)

For automatic watches, there’s an additional component called the rotor. This is a semi-circular weight that spins as you move your wrist, winding the mainspring in the process. The rotor pivots around a central axis, and when it spins, it transfers energy to the mainspring, keeping the watch wound without the need for manual winding. 

The beauty of the rotor is that it uses the natural movement of your body to keep the watch running. If you wear your watch regularly, it will stay wound without you ever having to manually wind it.

The Crown

The crown is the small knob on the side of the watch that you use to wind it manually. In most watches, you can pull the crown out to adjust the time or push it in to wind the mainspring. 

Automatic watches can also be wound manually if the rotor hasn’t wound enough through natural movement. The crown is your main point of interaction with the mechanical movement, and it plays a crucial role in keeping the watch running smoothly.

Mechanical Watch Maintenance Tips

As is the case with any watch, mechanical watches require some love and care to keep them ticking for years. One of the most important and possibly obvious tips we can give you is to keep your mechanical watch wound. 

For many watches, make sure to wind the crown gently once per day, preferably at the same time each day. If you have an automatic watch but you don’t wear it daily, you might want to consider getting a watch winder to keep it running.

Another key tip is to avoid exposure to magnets, as they can affect the watch’s accuracy. Keep your mechanical watch away from electronic devices like smartphones, speakers, and laptops, which emit magnetic fields, as these can mess with those intricate components inside and ultimately ruin the precision and functionality of your timepiece. 

Similarly, we also suggest keeping your watch clean. Wiping it with a soft, dry cloth every now and then will help to prevent any dust, dirt, or sweat from getting into the movement. This will also help keep your watch looking brand new.

Depending on the water resistant rating of your mechanical watch, try to avoid submerging it in water. And even if your watch is water resistant, check the seals periodically. This can also be done when you service your watch, which should be actioned by a professional every 3 to 5 years. 

Over time, the oils inside the movement can dry out, and the tiny gears can wear down, so the regular maintenance provided by a watch service ensures your watch keeps performing at its best.

Conclusion

Hopefully, you can now see why so many of us watch nerds and why we love the beauty and technology of mechanical watches. These little works of art require no battery, but just a selection of finely tuned gears, springs, and wheels to tell the time. 

Whether manually wound or automatic, mechanical watches represent centuries of horological innovation. Sure, they’re not as accurate as quartz watches, but those battery-operated movements lack the artistry, engineering, and history that comes with a true mechanical timepiece.