Author: Benedetto Youssef

I remember the first time I realized just how important watch accuracy was. I was just starting out on my watch journey, still exploring the world of cheaper homage watches with low-end Chinese movements. As far as I was concerned, if it slightly resembled an Omega Seamaster and ticked, it probably was good enough to reliably depend on. Little did I know.

I remember wearing the watch for a few days—not really thinking about checking the accuracy of its timekeeping. It was ticking, after all, so that meant it was working. A week later, I was ten minutes late for a college course I was teaching. Ten minutes late? How the heck did that happen? 

Well, it turns out the watch was losing about a minute and a half per day. A quick trip to my jeweler, and he adjusted the watch so that it wasn’t so inaccurate. I learned my lesson: Buy once, cry once. Chinese “off-brands” are able to sell watches so cheaply because the quality control and fine adjustment aren’t quite there—if present at all! 

The lesson here is that accuracy matters. Never forget!

The COSC Chronometer Certification

In the mid-20th century, as the demand for accurate timepieces grew across the globe, the Swiss sought to create an independent timekeeping standard that only the best quality movements could achieve. 

We call these watches COSC-certified or chronometers. COSC, as is defined by the watch industry today, is the rigorous timekeeping standard created by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute—for you language aficionados, also known as Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres—in 1973. 

This “ISO 3159” standard subjects mechanical movements (both automatic and manual winding) to a 15-day testing process, which measures accuracy across five positions and three temperatures. If the watch maintains a daily timekeeping rate of at least -4/+6 seconds per day, then it receives the badge of honor: COSC certified. 

Other Chronometer Certifications 

While “COSC” is the standard by which all others are measured today, it actually wasn’t the first “chronometer” certified movement, nor was it the last! The following is a list of timekeeping standards used both within and without Switzerland, with the majority still in use as of my writing this article!

Superlative Chronometer 

The King wears the crown, after all. That’s right, folks, Rolex is the earliest on this list to offer a Chronometer standard better than the COSC Chronometer certification. In the 1950s, Rolex began offering Superlative Chronometer watches to differentiate themselves from other Swiss competitors and establish themselves as a leader in precision and reliability.

And although Rolex had been releasing COSC-level watches for decades prior, this was done through various independent observatories, not by the aforementioned body, which became the central authority, standardizing it under one unified body in 1973. 

It’s worth noting that Rolex didn’t only offer “better” than Chronometer timekeeping—the brand absolutely crushed the standard, with their Superlative Chronometer watches all maintaining accuracy of at least +/- 2 seconds per day. Today, the entire Rolex catalog of watches comes standard with Superlative Chronometer accuracy. 

Like I said—they wear the crown for a reason! 

METAS Chronometer 

As I’m typing this, I am staring at my Omega Railmaster—at the small white lettering that reads, “Master Chronometer.” Never to be outdone by Rolex, in 2015, Omega set an even more rigorous standard, claiming, “To own a MASTER CHRONOMETER is to be confident that your watch has been certified not once – but twice!”

Indeed, Omega does certify their METAS watches twice: once with Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, ensuring it meets standard COSC parameters and is accurate to -4/+6 seconds per day, and a second time by METAS (Swiss Federal Industry of Metrology), where it undergoes an additional and more rigorous 10 days of testing to ensure the watch can withstand magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, maintain an accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day after casing, be tested for water resistance to its specified depth, and have its power reserve verified to match the advertised duration.

What’s more interesting—and unlike standard COSC watches and even Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer watches—is the fact that Omega offers full transparency, available online, for the results of each and every METAS-certified watch they sell. It’s pretty cool to be able to log onto the site and see your individual watch’s results, I have to admit. 

German Chronometer Standard 

Enter the Germans. No really—whenever great horological houses are discussed, it’s always the big three that are mentioned: Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. Of course, great watches, both entry-level and luxury, come from a great host of nations, like anything else. But Germany, especially the city of Glashütte, has been producing highly accurate timepieces for hundreds of years. 

The German Chronometer Standard was first introduced in the 20th century under the “DIN 8319” standard, which in actuality closely mirrored COSC’s ISO 3159 standards. The difference is that DIN 8319 only tests fully cased watches, whereas ISO 3159 tests movements alone. 

For me, it always felt a bit like, “Hey. We can do this too. Our standards are at least equal to, if not better than the Swiss!” Either way, you can have peace of mind knowing that if you have a German Chronometer Standard watch, you will have superb accuracy, durability, and craftsmanship present.

Grand Seiko Special Standard 

If you’ve heard of Grand Seiko—and if you haven’t, have you been living under a damn Rock?—you know that they are renowned for their dials, meticulous craftsmanship, and their Spring Drive movements. 

These hybrid quartz-mechanical movements are accurate to +/-15 seconds per month, but they do use quartz oscillators and, therefore, do not fall under the purview of COSC or any mechanical movement standard. You might be asking yourself, then, what in the world is “Grand Seiko Special Standard?”

Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we aren’t only in the business of selling watches but also informing our audience about horological history and innovation! In 1960, the first Grand Seiko had “Chronometer” on the dial as an indication of its superior accuracy, rivaling the standard set by the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres of the time.

This only lasted for 6 years, however, and in 1966, Grand Seiko introduced its own standard: Grand Seiko Special Standard. These mechanical movements would undergo a 17-day vigorous testing period, in which the movements would be subjugated to temperature and position variation. Watches would only pass and be designated with Grand Seiko’s Special Standard if they had precision rates of at least +4/-2 seconds per day! 

Qualité Fleurier Standard 

In the world of Haute horology, or high horology, the Qualité Fleurier Standard is the absolute gold standard. Established in 2001 in Fleurier, Switzerland, it is considered to be one of the most prestigious and demanding certifications in the industry. 

Not only does it measure the accuracy of a timepiece, but also the reliability, durability, and finishing of both the movement and the timepiece. 

The Qualité Fleurier Standard also requires that all components of the timepiece, from the dial to the case, hands, and indices, be manufactured and assembled in Switzerland. It is worth noting that the movement accuracy must meet ISO 3159 (COSC) standards. 

Because of these stringent requirements, only a handful of high-end Maisons qualify for the Qualité Fleurier Standard—watches like Parmigiani Fleurier, Chopard, and Bovet. 

Patek Philippe Seal 

Arguably the centerpiece of “The Holy Trinity” of watchmaking, Patek Philippe holds a venerable “grail” status amongst most enthusiasts. I recently had the opportunity to try a platinum World Time on the wrist. 

It was my first hands-on Patek Philippe experience, and the whole thing lasted about 20 seconds but left me thinking about that watch in the days, weeks, and months to come. It was beautiful.

In 2009, Patek Philippe introduced their own in-house certification, replacing the Geneva Seal—a historic sign of Swiss watchmaking excellence. Going beyond the stringent requirements of the Geneva Seal, the Patek Philippe Seal covers the entire watch: case, dial, hands, bracelet, movement finishing, and performance. 

We already know how “perfect” Patek Philippe’s are in terms of finishing, but the Patek Philippe Seal also calls for a greater than COSC accuracy of -3/+2 seconds per day. Make no mistake, folks—this is Patek proclaiming loud and clear for all those to hear, “We set our own standards of excellence.”

Why is Chronometer Certification Important?

If you consider some of the tragic accidents that happened in the locomotive world, leading to better accuracy in American horology, and the needs for soldiers in battle to have accurate time telling, and for pilots to measure fuel consumption and flight times, and for racecar drivers to accurately time lap times to measure performance, and—I’m guessing you are starting to get the point here. 

Yes, having accurate timekeeping capabilities is a tenet of contemporary societal needs. And in the age of digital watches, smartwatches, and cellphones, the onus is on the titans of the horological industry to offer as accurate a mechanical watch as possible! 

After all, you can’t expect people to spend boatloads of cash for a watch that isn’t reliable. The Chronometer certification—in whatever aforementioned guise it is offered in—is a worry-free guarantee to the customer: you won’t be late. We have your back.

Conclusion

While having superbly accurate timepieces is important, it’s equally important to discuss some of the costs associated with more stringent accuracy. Timepieces with COSC certifications are usually more expensive than their counterparts without. 

Nevertheless, I have some non-COSC certified timepieces that are just as accurate, or even more accurate than the chronometers in my staple. It’s also worth noting that if you rotate your watches daily, or even weekly, COSC becomes less important, as you are constantly switching out watches and resetting the times. 

In the end, what matters most is that a timepiece aligns with your needs and passions as a collector. After all, a watch isn’t just about telling time—it’s about telling your story. 

Our sense of personal taste, style, and function doesn’t have to end with the purchase of a wristwatch. But many don’t even explore the various options available to really make a timepiece their own—or to better suit it to a specific aesthetic or activity. 

For many, a nice pair of shoes can really bring an outfit together while also offering specific functionality. A good pair of boots can help you navigate rugged terrain.

A pair of basketball sneakers can give you better support for working out or training. A sleek pair of dress shoes can really elevate formal wear. 

But so many of us buy a watch and forget that we can make it our own. We’ll wear a leather band to the beach, or a NATO strap to a board meeting, or a metal bracelet to a black-tie event.

And while variety is the spice of life, a timepiece is, in actuality, extraordinarily flexible if we just consider changing the band or strap from time to time. 

A watch band is, after all, shoes for your wrist, so don’t be afraid to explore the many options that can make an older watch feel new again or to make your watch even more suited to the task at hand.

History of Watch Bands 

As many may know, the first watches were essentially miniature versions of clocks, so they were still too large to be worn on the wrist.

In the 16th century, these “miniature clocks” were known as pocket watches, and while they were small enough to be carried, they were typically attached to chains and worn in pockets (hence the name) or pinned onto clothing. 

The first wristwatch was created in the early 19th century by the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet. He crafted this first wrist-worn timepiece for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples in 1810.

And for much of the 19th century, pocket watches reigned supreme, with a few wrist-worn pieces created for royalty. 

The prominence of wrist-worn watches didn’t begin until the early 20th century. In 1904, Cartier designed a watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, an aviator with a “functional” need for accessible timekeeping while flying. 

And then the start of The Great War (World War I) required a more practical timekeeping solution for combat. Soldiers began strapping watches to their wrists, using makeshift leather straps or fabric brands to secure their pocket watches onto their wrists.

The rest is history—literally! 

Most Popular Watch Band Types 

So you want to change up the look of your timepiece. Or maybe you are about to head on a scuba adventure or mountainous trek, and you want something that is more comfortable or better suited to the outdoors. 

Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we aren’t only in the business of selling luxury timepieces, but we are also in the business of informing you, our readers and clients, about the most popular watch band types that exist. 

So sit back, relax, and get ready to journey down the winding—no pun intended!—road of watch bands. It is important to note that we will cover a good portion of the different types of straps and bracelets available, but the following list is not a fully exhaustive list.

Metal Bracelets

If strength, durability, and lightplay are at the top of your list, a metal bracelet is unparalleled in offering these traits.

They come in many shapes and sizes, with some types better suited to rugged wear while others bridge the difference between formal and informal attire. Every collector should have at least one good bracelet in their collection! 

Oyster

The brainchild of Rolex, the Oyster bracelet is the quintessential watch accessory. If you ask the average person to close their eyes and imagine a watch, chances are they will probably envision some type of dive watch on an Oyster bracelet. 

The broad, flat three-piece links are engineered for superior durability and comfort, making the Oyster bracelet ideal for diving or desk wear.

Because these watches are often built to the highest of standards, they have micro adjustment available via their robust clasps, offering even greater flexibility for wetsuits and wrist swelling.

Jubilee

Another invention from the crown, the jubilee bracelet is made up of a five-piece structure with semi-circular links, offering a more comfortable, form-fitting wear, as well as a dressier overall look.

The larger outer links are usually brushed, and the narrow inner links are polished, giving the jubilee bracelet an elegant appearance with eye-catching light play. 

The jubilee is the most appropriate bracelet for a dress watch, period. It also wears nicely on the weekend with a pair of jeans.

You’d be hard-pressed to find a more versatile bracelet; while they are robust for most activities, if a demanding physical activity calls for a metal bracelet, you would be better served with an Oyster or Engineer Bracelet.

President

The final bracelet on this list that was originally conceptualized and created by Rolex, the President bracelet is a dressier and more refined version of the Oyster bracelet. It is characterized by rounder, narrower, and wider links, arranged in rows of three.

There is a greater distinction and variation (depending on the model) of brushed versus polished textured surfaces, thus adding onto the lightplay and sophistication of the bracelet. 

Additionally, the President bracelet typically features a hidden clasp that maintains the sleek aesthetic, while the Oyster may have a more visible clasp design. This makes for a bracelet that is much better suited for formal occasions.

Engineer

The most underrated of metal straps that just so happens to be my favorite. Formed by rows of five narrow, tightly interlocking links, the Engineer bracelet has a unique pattern and superior wearability. Think about breaking one stick in half and then a bundle of sticks. 

The five links create a really strong and unique design, ultimately offering more “points” to conform onto the wrist, providing unmatched flexibility.

This combination makes the engineer bracelet both stylish and incredibly resilient for outdoor and active wear while offering a striking visual texture that’s hard to miss.

Mesh

Pick your poison: shark mesh or Milanese. The Shark Mesh bracelet takes its design cues from the protective mesh suits used by divers to shield themselves from shark attacks.

This kind of bracelet rose to prominence in the 1970s as diving watches gained popularity. Shark mesh bracelets are a bit more loosely woven when compared to their closest cousin: Milanese. 

The Milanese or “Milano” bracelet originated in 19th-century Milan, where artisans developed it as a form of chainmail. This beautiful mesh design eventually made its way into watch bracelets, offering a unique mix of flexibility, comfort, and style.

With its tightly woven stainless steel mesh, the Milanese bracelet has a sleek and fluid look that, at least in my own experiences, almost wears like a “second skin,” albeit one made from metal.

Leather Straps

We’ve all owned a watch on a leather strap. Maybe it was something cheap and stiff, or perhaps it was something luxurious and buttery, but likely, it was something in the middle, taking a bit of time to break in and become your own. Leather straps are ubiquitous in the world of watches today.

Aviator/Pilot

These leather straps are often thick and padded; this was done to conform to the historically “larger” dimensions and case thickness of pilot’s watches, which had to be large to offer superior legibility during flights. 

Sometimes featuring stainless steel studs near the widest portion of the strap, the pilot’s strap is crafted from various textures, ranging from smooth (top-grain) to rough (nubuck), and comes in colors like black, tan, and mocha brown.

Bund

I’ve never owned a bund strap. Sure, I’ve tried a few on, but they are far too large for smaller wrists, in my opinion. The term “bund” comes from the German word Bundeswehr, which means “Federal Defense.” 

The bund strap is unique in that it is a regular leather strap atop a larger and wider leather baseplate. This was done, specifically for pilots, to protect wrists from temperature changes and, thus, the friction/discomfort that metal watch cases would bring onto wrists due to drastic changes in temperature.

Dress

Dress watch straps come in all shapes and sizes. Some are crafted from exotic hides such as ostrich and crocodile, and others are merely embossed so as to appear that they are made from a leather other than calf. Leather straps can be padded or unpadded, depending on the watch accompanying the strap. 

Thicker and larger watches, with multiple complications, may call for a padded strap, while thinner, elegant pieces may call for an unpadded and sleek strap. Nevertheless, when in doubt, a leather dress strap is always appropriate for formal attire and events.

Rally

These straps are inspired by motorsports, particularly automotive racing. Many chronographs come on rally straps, as these watches are specifically built for the world of automotive sports. 

Rally straps have distinctive perforations that allow the wearer’s wrist to breathe, offering a more aggressive aesthetic that is both timeless and functional.

If you are looking to add a dynamic edge to your watch, or you are a car enthusiast of any sort, consider adding a rally strap to your collection. Steve McQueen would be proud! 

Fabric Straps

When the heat makes leather straps unbearably sweaty, and the frost renders metal bracelets bitingly cold, fabric straps emerge as the ultimate versatile choice: a jack of all trades, really. They can be dressed up or down, are very durable, and can be worn in water without worry.

NATO

NATO straps have a military history dating back to the 1970s. Originally designed by the British Ministry of Defense, their durability and style have made them one of the most popular watch straps available today. 

NATO straps are unique in that they have a safety flap that goes under the case to secure the watch if a spring bar breaks. Constructed from nylon, NATO straps are highly durable and ready for the battlefield, the bar, or the boardroom. 

Zulu

The Zulu strap is generally constructed from thicker nylon than its cousin, the NATO strap, though they can also be constructed from leather. The Zulu strap is based on military watch straps from the mid-20th century. 

The US military began using the Zulu style as early as the 1960s, and the name may come from the military’s use of Zulu time, which was the same as GMT or UTC time.

These straps are also durable because they are a single piece of nylon that goes through and under both spring bars, ensuring that the watch isn’t lost if one bar fails. This allows for the same durability as a NATO but with less strap bulk underneath the case.

Perlon

The perlon strap is made from a light, crisp, and elastic material that offers excellent breathability, making it ideal for hot summer days or extraneous activities. One of the standout features of this braided nylon is the ability to make micro-adjustments for the perfect fit. 

Thanks to its flexible and soft construction, you can easily slide the buckle’s pin into one of the strap’s numerous perforations, ensuring a perfectly comfortable and customized fit.

Cordura

This sailcloth style strap is constructed from durable Cordura®-nylon, known for its resistance to abrasion, tears, and scuffs. These straps are well known amongst the sailing and marine industries, and offer a stylish yet comfortable solution to salt, sand, and sea! 

Rubber Straps

Rubber straps have risen in popularity since the middle of the 20th century. As watch manufacturers recognized the demand for durable, waterproof options, they started to produce rubber straps that could withstand even the harshest of aquatic environments.

Waffle

The rubber waffle strap was made famous by Captain Willard (Martin Sheen) in the iconic movie Apocalypse Now when he wore it with his Seiko 6105.

The waffle strap offers a unique textured pattern that not only looks great but also helps the wrist breathe better and dry sooner if it becomes wet from water or sweat.

Do you want to be as cool as Captain Willard? If so, you should consider putting a dive watch on a waffle strap! 

Tropic

Tropic straps first appeared in the 1960s, created to meet the needs of scuba diving enthusiasts who wanted waterproof watch straps that could handle the tough conditions of saltwater.

Crafted from a new type of “synthetic rubber,” designed to be more resistant to saltwater and UV exposure.

Tropic straps have a unique pattern that intersects style and function, with perforations to enhance breathability and water drainage, thus making the straps amphibious.

Silicone

We’ve all heard of the wonders of silicone before, but have you ever tried one on your wrist? No leather in existence can match the utter comfort and suppleness of a silicone strap.

If you are looking for something that can weather any element, all while feeling supple and soft, you simply must have a silicone strap in your collection.

Choosing the Right Watch Band for You 

There are a myriad of options available when choosing the right watch band. As with anything, it is all about balancing form and function.

Do you want it to look a certain way, depending on what you are wearing? Do you want it to serve a specific role? If the answer to either of these questions is no, then just choose the band that tickles your fancy. 

But if you need a strap to complete a specific look or complement a certain activity, then you can’t go wrong in considering any of the aforementioned options.

I know they say that fashion doesn’t necessarily conform to comfort, but with the many materials available today, you can have fashion, function, and comfort all in one package!

How to Maintain Your Watch Bands 

Anyone who wishes to maintain their watch bands should always adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations. That said, metal bracelets of any type can be cleaned with warm water, a mild soap, and a sponge or soft brush.

Rubber straps can be cleaned in the same way, and you can also consider using a rubber conditioner every couple of months to help repel water, dirt, and stains. 

Canvas straps of any variety can be cleaned with warm water, soap, and a soft brush or sponge. They should ALWAYS be air-dried.

Finally, leather straps may require a bit more maintenance, but I’ve always done really well with a horsehair brush and shoe cream or leather conditioner—neutral color of course.

Brush the dirt and debris off of the strap, apply and massage a thin layer of cream onto the shoe, and give it a good brush a few minutes later. 

Conclusion 

Who would have thought that there are so many options available to dress our watches up or down and to better prepare them for the specifics of any endeavor, be it work, play, or formal engagement? 

It’s always important to consider your own unique style and taste, too. Don’t just conform, and don’t be afraid to experiment.

Just because a timepiece comes with a specific strap or bracelet doesn’t mean that you aren’t allowed to change up the look! Be unique and have fun…at the end of the day, that’s what this hobby is all about.

You’ve seen it before: a luxury dive watch with a black rotating bezel, healthy amounts of lume for superior nighttime visibility, a rugged bracelet with on-the-fly adjustment, robust water resistance, shock absorption, and anti-magnetic properties. When you close your eyes and think of such a watch, you likely see a crown logo and aftermarket pricing that is greater than the watch’s MSRP. 

This isn’t your father’s dive watch we’re going to talk about here. This is the Grand Seiko SBGA463.

History

Forged in the land of the rising sun, in the legendary Shinshu Watch Studio, surrounded by the Jonen and Hotaka mountain ranges, the SBGA463 was first introduced in 2021. And though Grand Seiko has over half a century of history and heritage to draw on, it wasn’t until 2008 that they released their first dive watches: the SBGA029 in stainless steel and the SBGA031 in titanium. 

A quick Google search will show that the newly updated SBGA463 is inspired by these original releases, both stylistically and technologically. They feature the same large dimensions, case material (titanium), and Spring Drive movement (9R65). If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. That’s precisely the mantra Grand Seiko has used for the new SBGA463, and they’ve certainly executed it.

Case

Big. Bold. A watch that is likely to grab the attention of bystanders, the SBGA463 has a 44mm diameter, with a thickness of 14mm, and a lug-to-lug of 50mm. I know that, based on today’s preferences for “smaller” and “vintage inspired” pieces, this may seem jumbo-sized. 

But, in actuality, this is a very wearable watch, especially when considering what it’s meant for: a mechanical tool watch designed for diving and rugged adventures. 

The fact that it’s crafted from high-intensity titanium—offering greater corrosion resistance and durability—actually helps the watch’s wearability. It’s all in the weight savings; being 30% lighter than stainless steel doesn’t mean it wears 30% smaller, but for a watch this size, I have to admit that I often forgot it was on my wrist when wearing it for extended periods of time. Kudos to Grand Seiko for continuing to be innovative in case materials and construction.

And, the case offers Grand Seiko’s famed Zaratsu polishing on the side of the case and drilled lug edges, with a nice brushed finish on the inside of the lugs for superior light-play. Being a dive watch, of course, Grand Seiko includes a screw-down crown nicely engraved with the GS logo and 200m of water resistance. 

The area around the crown has been engineered to ensure that residue from dirt, sand, or seawater can be easily washed off. Grand Seiko doesn’t specify if the bezel insert is ceramic or aluminum, but upon wearing and seeing the watch in the flesh, I believe it to be aluminum, which shouldn’t be a deal breaker for most. Finally, a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inside offers industry-leading visibility and durability.

Dial

Grand Seiko dials are the stuff of legends. When the Snowflake first came out, it set the entire industry on notice. There are no fancy patterns or textures to this dial; however, it doesn’t take away from the subtle beauty of it. If I had to describe the dial, I’d say it’s an “inky-black,” which is perfect for a dive watch.

The dial markers are circular and filled with Lumbrite, though the 12, 3, 6, and 9 offer differently shaped markers. The hour and minute hands have a broad, sharp profile that enhances legibility and has a brushed finish. 

The second hand is more slender and glides smoothly due to the Spring Drive movement. A date is clearly visible at the 3 o’clock position, and it’s worth noting that, as in all things Grand Seiko, it’s all about attention to detail. 

A trained artisan meticulously polishes the smallest details within the dial: the metal borders surrounding the date window, each dial marker, and even the power reserve indicator. 

No, no—don’t roll your eyes. I actually adore the power reserve indicator, but I know some people don’t love them. They are uniquely Grand Seiko, and I think it fits their design language nicely, but that’s me.

Movement

Some watch snubs wrinkle their noses in abject disgust at the prospect of spending thousands of dollars on a quartz watch. They argue that the intricacy of a mechanical watch, along with the craftsmanship and history, make it the “only” option for a luxury purchase. I myself have no problem with quartz watches, but what if I told you that the best of both worlds was available in one mesmerizing package?

Enter the 9R65 Spring Drive movement, the beating heart of the SBGA463. This is an in-house movement, combining both quartz and mechanical movement technology into something entirely unique to Grand Seiko. Spring Drive uses a mechanical mainspring for power but regulates time with a quartz crystal and an electromagnetic brake. 

This unique system creates a smooth, continuous movement of the second hand, combining the benefits of both mechanical and quartz technologies. These watches are super accurate, to the tune of +/-15 seconds per month—unparalleled accuracy in the watch industry. The movement also features a robust 72 hours of power reserve! 

Keep in mind that in today’s day and age, many manufacturers claim to use “in-house” movements, but their movements are just slightly modified ETA or Selita movements, and there is nothing wrong with third-party movements. 

Most Swiss watches under $3000 feature these movements, and they are accurate, dependable, and offer long-term repairability. It’s always nice, however, to know that you purchased a luxury watch with a movement specifically made for that watch, offering the latest and greatest in horological technology.

Straps

In my years covering the watch industry, I’ve heard it often repeated that Grand Seiko bracelets aren’t up to par, especially when considering their lack of micro-adjustment. I’ve debunked this claim as fictitious in previous reviews of the brand. 

Grand Seiko’s bracelets are woefully underrated. Their finishing matches or beats competitors in their price range, and the SBGA463 has the best Grand Seiko bracelet I’ve ever tried, offering four micro-adjustment holes on its titanium clasp.

The entire bracelet is made from titanium, with a finishing that offers variations between brushed and polished details. Like every GS bracelet, it is adjusted via push pins and has a lug width of 22mm—a nice touch, considering odd-numbered lug widths made it so much more difficult to purchase aftermarket straps. 

Another touch that Grand Seiko continues to offer on most of its sportier models is the inclusion of drilled lugs. You don’t have to worry about scratching your beautiful investment anymore or going to an AD just to change your watch strap.

On-Wrist Experience

There it was, lying on a beautiful blue felt mat, winking at me with its devilishly good looks.

“This is a 44?” I asked, glancing down at my slender wrists nervously. I had my doubts that the SBGA463 would fit me properly.

“Yes, 44mm,” the saleswoman responded, opening the clasp and helping me put the watch on.

I remember the first thoughts that came to my mind: wow, this is light. She urged me to walk around for a bit to get a proper feel for the watch. I did, and the longer I spent with it, the more I realized that the lightness of the watch really helped the wearing experience. 

I dare say this wore like a 42mm watch. The bracelet was super comfortable, with great articulation, easily conforming to the curves of my wrist. There was no lug overhang, not on my 6.75-inch wrist.

I left the boutique pleasantly surprised. People are so quick to go down the rabbit hole that is the online watch community, where things like lug-to-lug and case diameter reign supreme. 

Listen, I am as guilty as the rest, but it’s always important to try a watch on, especially if you like the looks. You remember the old saying: Don’t judge a book by its cover. I was guilty of judging the SBGA463 by its dimensions, but I was wrong. This is a watch that will fit the vast majority of wrists out there, from 6 inches up to infinity!

Price & Availability

The SBGA463 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $7,300. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SBGR325, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. At Exquisite Timepieces, we’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. 

As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or on various watch forums, but with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces. 

I spent some time online searching for pre-owned examples of the SBGA463. There are not many for sale, and they go for about $5500-6000 on the pre-owned market. Are the savings worth it? It all depends on your preferences. 

And remember, purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion

Whether you are searching for a professional diver to take on your next deep sea exploration or you need a luxurious desk diver that can be dressed up or down, the Grand Seiko SBGA463 is more than deserving of your consideration. It’s easy to dress up or down due to the subtle yet beautiful black dial. 

You can lug this around all day without feeling tired, too. Some larger watches made from stainless steel can really weigh you down, but Grand Seiko’s proprietary high-intensity titanium is not only 30% lighter than comparable stainless steel, but it also offers superior durability and scratch resistance. 

When considering a luxury watch purchase, we often take the “safe” route, purchasing a watch that is easily recognizable by watch nerds and civilians alike. You can complete the sentence with any number of safe brands: You buy a _____ to impress others; you buy a Grand Seiko to impress yourself.

Do yourself a favor. Consider buying this tremendous watch, or any Grand Seiko for that matter. Don’t impress others—impress yourself. 

Grand Seiko, the pride of Japan, is often heralded as horologically innovative—in part due to their incredible Spring Drive movements—and, of course, for their utter dedication to putting out timepieces with finishing that surpasses watches costing two to three times as much. 

The SBGR325 is not powered by Spring Drive; it actually has a mechanical movement! And let’s just get this out of the way: the dial is incredible, the finishing is incredible, the watch IS incredible. I have lusted over a Grand Seiko for some time, and in considering which piece might be best, the SBGR325 quickly rose to the top of my list.

History

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 is part of its esteemed Heritage Collection, paying homage to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS, a watch that established modern, angular, and masculine Grand Seiko styling. In 2023, Grand Seiko marked the 25th anniversary of its game-changing caliber 9S with special edition watches from the Heritage collection. These models feature dials that take inspiration from the shifting skies over Mount Iwate. 

Paying tribute to the first-ever GS watch that sported the in-house 9S mechanical movement, designed by Nobuhiro Kosugi back in 1998, the Grand Seiko SBGR325 comes in the same sleek case design with a compact 37mm diameter. Oh, and they’re super exclusive—only 1,200 pieces will be made!

Case 

“I like them a lot—they are just too big for me.” I’m sure many who work at a Grand Seiko boutique have heard these words before. I am sure many of you who are familiar with the watch enthusiast community have either heard or said a similar phrase, too. But things are quickly changing over at Grand Seiko and throughout the watch industry. 

Maisons are listening, whether it be through social media, the algorithm, or just word of mouth. Alterations to models are happening at a faster pace than ever before, and if you think about it, it makes perfect sense. They want to build what the people want, and in doing so, they’ll sell more watches. Sound logic.

The SBGR325 features a 37mm case diameter and a thickness of 13.3mm. Don’t raise a brow at the watch’s 13.3mm thickness; this is in part due to the beautiful domed sapphire crystal. On my 6.5-inch wrist, this watch felt amazing. 

I’d been looking at the SBGA415, which is also part of Grand Seiko’s Heritage collection but with a slightly larger case diameter of 40mm. I know 3mm is a small number, but I really did feel a night-and-day difference in trying on both watches at the same boutique. It just fits me better, plain and simple. If you have small to medium-sized wrists, this watch is the Grand Seiko for you. 

The finishing on the case alternates between Zaratsu polished and brushed surfaces, and the conical bezel is fully polished. See-through caseback gives a glimpse into the beautiful 9S65 movement with a custom titanium blue rotor. Finally, a fluted crown makes for easy winding and time adjustment. All in all, this is a beautiful package!

Dial 

True artistry is inspired, and Grand Seiko has never kept a secret about where it draws inspiration: from the beautiful nature surrounding its two studios—one in Iwate, the other in Shinshu. The SBGR325 takes inspiration from the shifting skies over Mount Iwate. This offers a breathtaking sky-blue, some might even call it an on-trend Tiffany blue that you have to see in person to fully appreciate. The rendered images and even the high-quality photography fail to do this timepiece justice! 

The applied GS logo in gold offers a wonderful contrast, and the heat-treated second hand gracefully floats around the dial. Some watch aficionados decry Grand Seiko’s insistence on destroying dial symmetry with power reserve indicators (which I actually love, but that’s neither here nor there), and they will be happy to see that such an indicator has not been included on this watch. They may, however, scoff at the date window, which is not color-matched, nor does it do anything to help the symmetry of the watch.

Movement 

The 9S65 in-house automatic movement is beautiful to look at with its high-level detailed finishing. Where it truly shines, though, is in its power reserve, boasting a whopping 80 hours (up from the 55 hours of the previous generation 9S). While this might not seem that high, it’s impressive, considering it’s a Hi-Beat movement that runs at 36,000 vph and has excellent tolerances (+5/-3 seconds per day). 

The new 9S65 caliber features a very energy-efficient escapement and a new free-sprung balance specially designed for this movement. This new design allows for higher accuracy over longer periods of time while offering superior shock and friction resistance. Additionally, Grand Seiko kept it very thin, making it 15% slimmer than other 9S Hi-Beat calibers. 

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 has an exhibition sapphire case back, allowing you to enjoy observing the beautifully finished 9SA5 caliber. When I first held the watch in hand, I was mesmerized by the finishing—and also by the movement of the second hand, which seemed to effortlessly glide around the dial, almost as smoothly as a spring drive.

Straps 

We’ve all heard how Grand Seiko bracelets are a step behind the competition. The rumor mill hints at a possible micro-adjustment clasp being released in the future, but as of now, you get a standard butterfly clasp without fine-adjustment. The SBGR325 bracelet is a standard, stainless steel Grand Seiko bracelet, which means it is “good enough.” 

Some argue, and rightfully so, that where Grand Seiko excels in finishing, movement technology, and dial, they fall short on their bracelets. The SBGR325 felt “good enough” on my wrist, and that’s not to say that it is a bad bracelet, but I think I would probably prefer this on a blue, gray, or even a brown leather strap. 

The 20mm lug width offers the wearer ease in finding alternative straps, and the inclusion of drilled lugs facilitates easier strap changes. So the bracelet is not the SBGR325’s strongest feature, but it functions well enough for a luxury wristwatch.

On-Wrist Experience 

Sublime. If I could just write one word for the on-wrist experience of the SBGR325 and leave it at that, the word would be sublime. Yes, watches are trending a bit smaller these days, but I’ve always been perfectly happy with the prospect of a 40mm Grand Seiko. But then I tried on this 37mm watch, and I fell in love. 

I wasn’t constantly rearranging the watch, and I wasn’t aware that it was even on my wrist. And then I’d look down, and there it was, its distinct dial reminding me that the sky’s the limit, that artistry, and craftsmanship are something to be celebrated and passed down from generation to generation, that good things do come in small packages. 

The SBGR325 offers classic wristwatch dimensions with a playful and meditative splash of color. Here’s a watch that you can effortlessly wear with formal attire. It would also go with a pair of shorts and a T-shirt for grilling and chilling on a Saturday afternoon with friends. The salesman who helped me with the watch was smiling because he knew that I had found a keeper. 

He told me that customers have been raving about the on-wrist experience and that this model was an extremely popular release. Unfortunately, I kept the plastic safe in my wallet, my wife’s voice echoing in my head, “No more watches.” I don’t know how long I can go without, but the SBGR325 is now at the top of my Grand Seiko wishlist! 

Price & Availability 

The SBGR325 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $5,300. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SBGR325, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. At Exquisite Timepieces, we’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. 

As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or on various watch forums, but with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces. 

Purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion 

You’ve been meaning to scratch that Grand Seiko itch—I mean, who hasn’t? And if you are reading this article and have yet to step into a boutique, do yourself a favor. Go have your mind blown by watches that rival the finest this industry has to offer, oftentimes at a fraction of the premium. 

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: Pictures do not do these watches justice. They simply have to be felt on the wrist. Their dials beg for a closer, almost meditative inspection. And the light-play—gosh. You can’t fully appreciate the artistry that goes into Zaratsu polishing unless you’ve seen the light-play in person.

All in all, Grand Seiko continues to impress with their release of the SBGR325. Sure, their bracelet is in sore need of an upgrade, and a color-matching date wheel would have been nice, but overall this is a watch with timeless sizing, profound artistry, and state-of-the-art technology. You simply can’t go wrong.