Anne Bensons, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 8 of 9

 

Author: Anne Bensons

Seiko skx

Today we take a horological dive into the most iconic and affordable legendary timepiece of all time; the Seiko SKX. Arguably the most popular watch that has introduced many enthusiasts to the intricate world of horology, the SKX line was a well-kept Japanese secret until its release in 1996. 

Built as a beater watch that combines the Japanese appreciation of Haute horology and the technical mastery of Seiko, the Seiko SKX is a highly respected watch with a cult following. The two variants, the black SKX007, and the dark blue SKX009 received profound interest from divers worldwide. The Seiko SKX is highly reliable, sturdy, good-looking, and affordable.

However, Seiko has discontinued the production of the SKX diver. So what now? Is it still the go-to beater watch? Are there alternatives to the extremely popular SKX007 and SKX009? Will the discontinued Seiko SKX go up in value? Is it worth the hype in 2022?

Read on to find out answers to these questions and more as we quickly delve into the story behind the launch of the Seiko SKX, its evolution over the years, the most notable watches from the Seiko SKX line, and some excellent alternatives you should be checking out. 

But first, the basic question…

What Is the Seiko SKX?

The Seiko SKX is a line that was introduced by Seiko in 1996. The watches in this series are fitted with the Seiko 7S26 caliber, a 21-jewel automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve and a 21,600 vph frequency used to power numerous Seiko high-functioning divers with up to 200m water resistance. 

Among the first models introduced at that time, the SKX007 and SKX009 were the two variants that stood out and became the best-selling diver’s watches at that time. The SKX series can trace its DNA back to the creation of Seiko’s (and Japan’s) first diver’s watch, the 150M Diver’s 6217, or 62MAS, as Seiko aficionados, call it. 

Launched to contend with Swiss rivals and even beat them in terms of quality, reliability, and performance, the Diver’s 6217 was originally made for the 1964 Japanese Olympics with Seiko as the official timing partner. 

The 150M Diver portrayed all the elements of a true diver’s watch. The hour makers and hands were luminescent, the bezel could rotate bi-directionally, and it was fitted with the cal. 6127, a 17-jewel automatic movement that guaranteed water resistance up to 150 meters deep.

The watch was largely successful due to its accessibility, reliability, and affordability. It received great responses and immediately placed Seiko in a strong position in the global market and marked the beginning of Seiko’s pursuit of the creation of reliable diver watches.

Following the success of the Diver’s 6217, Seiko made history again with the professional diver’s 600M, an impressive tool watch for exploring the deep crafted out of titanium. Fast forward to the 1980s, and several world firsts diving watches would be produced by the brand. 

These include the world’s first Hybrid Diver’s 150M (the Seiko H558 Arnie), which came with an alarm and chronograph and was launched in 1982. And how could we forget the world’s first Diver’s 1000M (7C46-7009), which featured a ceramic outer case in 1986, and the world’s best-selling Quartz Diver’s 200 meters watch (7c43-6010) in 1985.

As production of the 6309 ended (it reigned from 1976 to 1988), Seiko replaced it with the very first non-prospex timepiece (Prospex means Professional Specifications, and the Prospex collection is lined with high-end Seiko tool watches) by way of the 7002. 

A timepiece that was rugged on all levels and became the first true beater watch made by Seiko for extreme sports, manual labor, and everyday use. 

It was loved immediately after it hit the market, achieving immense fame among personnel of various military forces and freedivers all over the globe. It is a predecessor to the modern-day SKX, which picks up where the 7002 left off. 

So we have established that the Seiko SKX was introduced in 1996 and is a worthy descendant of the Seiko 7002. However, a few variants stand out, like the popular and loved black SKX007, one of the most highly recommended and affordable mechanical tool watches in recent history.

What Makes the Seiko SKX So Iconic?

Seiko SKX watches have all been discontinued by Seiko, but they remain widely available. Compared to other Seiko collections, the SKX line is the 3rd most popular, with an outstanding design, sturdy construction, reliable movement, and affordable price. 

The SKX007 and SKX009 were two of the longest-running models by the brand, as they were produced in huge numbers for over twenty years. But, again, why… just why is the Seiko SKX so popular? Read on to find out.

1. The Movement

All the watches from the SKX line are fitted with Seiko’s 7S26 movement. A solid automatic movement was first released in 1996. It is built around four primary moving parts and has been reported to work perfectly well for five to twenty years without needing servicing. 

The 7S26 is also a prized workhorse, thanks to Seiko’s proprietary diashock anti-shock system that makes it resistant to damage from falls. Beating at a rate of 21,600 bph, the 7S26 features 21 jewels, a quickset day/date display, an automatic bi-directional winding, and a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 

Its accuracy has been rated at approximately -20 to +40 seconds per day which is pretty large, although the movement can be adjusted to gain a higher accuracy. It is non-hand winding and non-hacking and can still be found in some entry-level Seiko 5 watches. 

Overall, the movement is affordable, reliable, and doesn’t require much maintenance to keep it running smoothly. After its discontinuation, it was replaced with the upgraded 4R36, which features hacking and hand-winding.

2. The Accessible Price Point

The SKX line was never meant to be a luxury collection. It was just meant to continue the brand’s legacy of excellent affordable watches. That said, because it uses an inexpensive movement paired with some standard watch components, the price point is insanely accessible.

Before Seiko discontinued it, the Seiko SKX sold for $150 to $250 for a new piece. Three years after its discontinuation, the watches in the Seiko SKX collection can still be obtained below the $500 mark on the private sales market.

3. The Case and Dial

The case and dial of the Seiko SKX line take cues from its predecessor, the 7002, giving it a universal appeal. The case bears the unique Seiko design with Seiko’s trademark Tsunami logo at its back. There are claims that the Seiko Tsunami Logo is based on Japan’s Most Famous Artwork, The Great Wave (Kanagawa Oki Nami Ura). 

The woodblock print by Hokusai Katsushika (1760-1849) depicts an imposing picture of a rogue wave with three boats and Mount Fuji in the background. Given the importance of the Hokusai woodcut in Japanese culture, it’s hard to imagine the Tsunami Logo has nothing to do with it.

Back to the Seiko SKX case, the diameter measures 42mm, while a compact lug-to-lug distance of 46mm, means it wears well on a variety of small to medium-sized wrists. The thickness measures 13.5mm, meaning it’s hefty but not too bulky for active work, while the crown at the 4 o’clock position won’t dig into the wearer’s wrist. 

Overall, the case is clean and good-looking, with smooth finishings between the sections and a brushed surface finish on the top. The dial is super legible, with vivid colors that make it stand out clearly. It shines through a Hardlex crystal – which is fine considering the price – with Hardlex being more scratch-resistant than regular mineral crystal.

Apart from this, it is almost impossible to find a mid-priced Seiko timepiece fitted with a Sapphire Crystal. The hands and big, chunky, painted hour markers stand out prominently. They are generously filled with the legendary Seiko Lumibrite luminescent solution, making the watch stand out clearly in the dark. 

Aesthetically, there’s nothing not to love about the SKX’s dial. It is extremely legible, as one would hope a Sports watch from Seiko would be, and gives you need and more; a day/date display at the 3 o’clock position. How cool is that?

Is the Seiko SKX Discontinued?

To the world’s dismay, in the 2nd half of 2019, Seiko officially announced the discontinuation of the Seiko SKX. Though you can still find new ones, the only place where you can obtain one is on the gray market with a significant value appreciation. 

So the lack of availability has only increased the demand (and, of course, the price), which is normal, as discontinued timepieces are one of the most highly sought-after and coveted watches in the pre-owned market. The Seiko SKX has remained legendary as a rugged, capable, and affordable beater watch option and can still be obtained below the $500 mark in the gray market.

Should You Buy a New or Pre-owned SKX?

The watches in the Seiko SKX line were created to stand the test of time and can still be worn after decades with an assurance of their quality intact. 

When it comes to choosing between a new or pre-owned SKX, it all boils down to personal preference, even though the most apparent reason why anyone would choose to buy a pre-owned SKX rather than the new one is the difference in price and availability. 

Purchasing a new piece means you’re guaranteed to receive a complete box set with all the accessories, a full warranty from the manufacturer, and of course, the assurance of knowing the watch has never been worn. 

On the other hand, if you’re buying pre-owned, you might not get some accessories or any warranty, and if it had not been serviced by a highly reputable source, it can be less reliable and incur problems over time. 

Seiko SKX References & Current Prices

The design of the SKX bears a resemblance to the eye-catching original 1980s Seiko 7002 diver watch that was famous for its unique features. Signature translucent dials with distinctive rectangular hour markers showcase the day/date disc rotation with profound legibility that adds to the retro effect. 

And though there might be slight differences between the variants in the Seiko SKX line, the watches here are known for durability, performance, and value.

Since the introduction of the SKX series in 1996, the collection has remained globally respected among collectors. Its flawless 42-mm case size, robust caliber 7S26, affordable price, and 200 meters of water resistance made it the gateway timepiece to the world of dive watches.

Seiko SKX007

Seiko SKX007

The Seiko SKX007 gets the most attention out of all the SKX watches due to its universal black dial design. Even though the SKX007 receives a lot of attention, the iconic ISO-rated dive watch is not the only legendary timepiece from the SKX line. 

There’s also the SKX173 variation which was made specifically for the North American market. The watch bears the same resemblance with SKXs, but subtle differences can be noticed on the dial (such as rectangular hour makers, different seconds hands with a lumed circle at the head and not the tail, bolder triangles on the bezel, etc).

Seiko SKX009

Seiko SKX009

The second most popular SKX reference is the Seiko SKX009. It’s very similar to the 007 but features a deep blue dial with an iconic “Pepsi” bezel. Its American-market counterpart was the SKX175, although there weren’t any significant differences between the two pieces. Still, the navy blue dial with the contrasting red part of the bezel was adored by many watch collectors around the world.

Seiko SKX013

Seiko SKX013

Another famous SKX model is the SKX013. This is a smaller watch with a diameter of 38mm and a lug-to-lug of only 44mm. This compact size made it ideal for people with smaller wrists or those who prefer a smaller watch. The SKX013 featured the same dial and bezel combination as the SKX007 but with a different seconds hand.

Seiko SKX011

Seiko SKX011

The Seiko SKX011 was an underrated model in the SKX family that did not gather the fame and attention of its brothers. This mostly comes down to its polarizing color combination of an orange dial and black bezel with gold accents. 

But these colors should be very familiar to fans of the Seiko Orange Monster models. Another issue with the SKX011 is that it’s a Japanese Domestic Market model that wasn’t officially released in the West, making it difficult to find.

Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) Seiko SKX

While Seiko is a Japanese watch brand that designs all its watches, most SKX watches were not actually manufactured in Japan. Instead, only a handful was built in Seiko’s Japanese factories, and they were primarily aimed at the Japanese market.

Most Seiko SKX watches were manufactured in Seiko factories in Malaysia or Singapore. These models are indicated by the K letter next to the model name (SKX007K1). Comparatively, the Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) SKX watches are denoted by the letter J (SKX007J1). 

Essentially, the two types of SKX watches are identical, besides a bit of writing on the dial. But, there’s the notion that JDM models have better construction, finishing, and quality control. While this hasn’t been proven, and Seiko hasn’t confirmed it, watch fans tend to go for the JDM vs the K models if they can find them.

Current Seiko SKX Prices

When it comes to pricing, it is difficult to put a pin on the price of these watches since Seiko has discontinued the SKX line. What’s worth mentioning is that on the gray market, the JDM models sell for approximately 20% more than the K models. The exotic nature of the JDM SKX watches (in addition to their limited availability) plays a vital role in their popularity and price. 

Demand and supply shifts may largely affect the price point, but at the time of writing this article, brand-new JDM Seiko SKX watches can be obtained between $600 – $850. Comparatively, the K models demand between $450 – $600 (with the K1s/rubber strap variants being more affordable than the K2s/steel bracelet variants). 

With supply becoming lower every day since the discontinuation of the SKX, more and more watch fans will eventually turn to the second-hand market to find SKX watches. Pricing on the used market can vary significantly and heavily depends on the condition of the watch. Always make sure to do your research before shopping for one though, as there are a lot of counterfeit SKX watches out there.

Seiko SKX Replacements

When Seiko discontinued the SKX line in the second half of 2019, they quickly followed up with a more elegant version of the sports watch to appeal to the next generation of consumers: the Seiko 5 Sports collection. Interestingly, all of Seiko’s diver’s watches are now Prospex logo-signed.

Seiko 5 What?

Originally released in the 1960s, Seiko 5 was meant to deliver highly durable beater watches with profound levels of reliability, durability, performance, and value at an affordable price. Its rebirth as a replacement for the revered SKX line is no surprise, as it is a proper replacement for any value-hungry collector or buyer. 

Taking inspiration from its predecessor, the 5 Sports collection comes with the same values as the originals. But, it incorporates a fresh new look and the numeral ‘’5’’, representing the original five key features of every Seiko 5 timepiece present today: Automatic movement, Day-date display, Water Resistance, Recessed crown, and durable case and bracelet. 

One of the major improvements in this replacement is the upgrade from the popular 7S36 movement to the Caliber 4R36, which was a very good move since the 7S36 caliber was outdated and couldn’t be wound by hand. 

The new Caliber 4R36 now offers wearers the desirable hacking and hand-winding functionality in addition to all the features of the 7S36 movement; hours, minutes, central seconds, day/date calendar at 3 o’clock, an anti-shock system, 41 hours of power reserve and 21,600 bph. 

The Seiko 5 Sports has a dial and case that resembles the SKX watches, but this time the lugs are drilled, and the case back is transparent to offer you a perfect view of the timekeeping mechanics in action. 

Unlike the SKX, this line includes watches with a push-pull crown, not a screw-down one. The disadvantage of this is a lowered water resistance rating from 200m to 100m which is okay for swimming and snorkeling but not deep diving.

Different strap styles with more choices in various colors, including stainless steel, leather, rubber, silicone, and even interchangeable nylon bands that appeal to different sections of the market, have been vastly improved in 5 Sports. 

The rubber straps are now softer and more pliable. A striking sunray or cool matte dial features the signature Seiko 5 Sports logo on all the watches, and luminous hand and indices with a day/date calendar keep the spirit of the SKX line alive on the wrist of the wearer.

 Before we look at the Pros and Cons of both collections, here’s a quick rundown on a few models in the Seiko 5 Sports

1. SRPD71

SRPD71

The stainless steel case of the SRPD71 measures 42.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 13mm. The size of the casing bears a resemblance to the SKX. The SRPD71 “suit style” is a more elegant version of the 5 Sports line. 

Its shape is round, and the bezel is unidirectional. However, it looks to be smaller, with the stainless steel crown resting between a crown guard elegantly positioned at 4 o’clock to prevent it from digging into the wrist, thereby increasing comfort. 

The matte metallic blue dial goes well with cream-colored indices, and a sharp-looking mesh (Milanese style) steel bracelet gives it an overall crisp look without bordering on “bling bling”. 

So it’s subtle but not distracting and the matte effect over the metallic dial, in addition to luminous arrow-styled hands and markers, offers an excellent level of legibility that is beautiful to behold. 

A day-date window is positioned at three o’clock, and it is powered by Seiko’s own in-house automatic caliber 4R36 movement, which is viewable through the exhibition case back.

2. SRPD91

SRPD91

The SRPD91 “Sports Style” has all the design elements that define the SKX line but with an improved build quality and a higher price tag of around $300 compared to the SKX.

 It comes in a stainless steel black PVD case that measures 42.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 13.4mm, which is a fantastic measurement considering that it is a sports watch and has a very straightforward design. 

The grainy black dial with slight matte finishing has applied hour markers, one of the upgrades compared to the SKX line that came with printed ones, with a generous amount of Lumibrite applied to them to ensure a long-lasting glow. 

Overall, the dial is clean, simple, and highly legible, with the classic Seiko 5-day and date window at 3 o’clock. It is presented in an olive green nylon NATO strap that offers versatility and a tactical military look. It is equipped with the in-house automatic caliber 4R36, which, unlike the SKX line, has hacking seconds and manual winding functions.

3. SPRD77

SPRD77

I found myself gravitating towards the SPRD77 “Sense Style” the most. For starters, it has a unique green dial with a lot more details and an interesting texture than other models in this price range. The case size and design are the same as the last generation SKXs, and it comes with a green nylon NATO strap with a gunmetal buckle and catchers. 

There’s something about the orange seconds hand sweeping over tiny plateaus and valleys and breaking up the more or less monochromatic dial that is just appealing. Encompassing the edge of the dial is the chapter ring with silver-printed second markers.

In contrast, the color of the coin edge bezel is a deeper teal of gunmetal gray, which compliments the dial nicely. Inside, the 4R36, a 24-jewel automatic movement with hacking and hand-winding functionality, provides approximately 40 hours of power reserve.

Seiko SKX

Pros

  • Number one beater watch; easy to wear all day long for any kind of activity.
  • Great looks with a timeless design.
  • Exceptional value for money
  • Most accessible entry-level diver’s of all time

Cons

  • Discontinued line with Inflated prices.
  • Outdated 7S26 in-house movement with no hacking or hand-winding.
  • Unconventional crown position at four o’clock.
  • Tons of modern alternatives on the market

Seiko 5 Sports

Pros

  • Sturdy and robust movement with hacking and hand-winding.
  • Bright lume markers.
  • Insane durability.

Cons

  • Lack of a screw-down crown.
  • Not ideal for diving as it lacks the 200m of water resistance.
  • Hefty weight.

Seiko SKX Alternatives

The Seiko SKX007 was indeed one of the most popular dive watches on the market, with a near cult following before the discontinuation of the SKX line in 2019. 

Let’s be honest now. It’s 2022, and apart from the inflated prices of most SKX watches on the gray market, many of them lack a modern twist which can be found in alternatives, even from Seiko, as the brand has over thirty new Seiko 5 Sports models that are a great alternative to the discontinued SKX line.

Anyone who has always wanted to sport a Seiko SKX timepiece but balked at the inflated prices should definitely take a closer look at these alternatives. There are a few awesome alternatives to the Seiko SKX that come with a screw-down crown, 200+ meters of water resistance, and are under $500.

Seiko Samurai SRPB51

Seiko Samurai SRPB51

The Seiko Samurai SRPB51 has been one of the most popular watches from Seiko’s ”Prospex” and ”Samurai” collections for over five years. Like the SKX007, the watch boasts 200 meters of water resistance and luminous markings. Adding to that are a classic design and handy additional features, such as a hacking movement and manual winding. 

Even if you’re already familiar with the Samurai, as many collectors are, here’s some background; Seiko Samurai was first introduced in 2004 and was well received by the audience because of its robustness and sleek design. It was called the Samurai because of its sword-shaped hands and was available in titanium and stainless steel. 

The Samurai SRPB51 is an excellent alternative to the SKX because it’s an affordable yet well-built sporty dive watch that is really accurate, has amazing lume, and is easily read. It might be bulky at 43.8mm, and hefty with a case thickness of 13.5mm, but that’s exactly why it’s a robust sports watch. 

The textured dial is stunning, clean, and legible, with polished second, hour, and minute hands that feature a generous amount of Lumibrite. Speaking of cleanliness, the dial features the Prospex logo, the word ‘Automatic’, the depth rating, and a discreet date window at 3 o’clock.

The Seiko Samurai SRPB51 is fitted with Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex crystal and the Seiko’s caliber 4R35, which offers a reasonable 41-hour power reserve. It also comes with a bracelet that has a three-fold clasp to keep it secure and in place.

The Seiko Prospex “Turtle” SRPC25K1

The Seiko Prospex "Turtle" SRPC25K1

The Seiko Prospex “Turtle” comes with an oval case that resembles a turtle’s shell, hence the nickname by followers of the brand. The Turtle line first surfaced in 1976 under the name 6306, but it’s unclear if production continued when the SKX came on board. 

It resurfaced in 2019 and has become a desired alternative to the discontinued SKX line. The Seiko Prospex “Turtle” is instantly recognizable due to its cushion-shaped, oval case and crown at the 4 o’clock position – a historic trait of the Turtle line, which is one feature that facilitates a comfortable fit. The case is large with a diameter of 44.3 mm but doesn’t feel oversized on the wrist, partly due to the short lugs and soft curves. 

The dial is legible and Seiko, as always, uses its luminous material, LumiBrite, for the indices. The hour, minute, and seconds hands are also coated in LumiBrite, and the luminous material is only absent at 3 o’clock, where the day and date display sits. 

Seiko’s Hardlex crystal, which is between the standard mineral glass and the sapphire crystal in terms of durability and scratch resistance, is used here with a stainless steel bracelet that has a practical diver’s extension. 

Overall, the Seiko Prospex SRPC25K1 is a robust diving watch that is water-resistant to 200 meters (20 bar, 656 ft). The reliable automatic in-house caliber 4R36 offers a power reserve of 41 hours, hacking seconds, and a manual-winding function.

Prospex Special PADI Edition Samurai Black

Prospex Special PADI Edition Samurai Black

The PADI collection is exclusive to Seiko and stands for Professional Association of Diving Instructors, which happens to be one of the world’s leading scuba diving training organizations that unifies divers who share a passion for adventure and love for the ocean around the globe.

Featuring an elegant ceramic bezel with light blue color highlights, the angular-shaped design has been nicknamed King Samurai by Seiko fans. That’s because the case looks as if it had been sliced by a Japanese Samurai sword, though it’s the concave curvature of the middle part of the case.

The Prospex special PADI edition has an impressive 200 meters water resistance, a 43.8mm case with 22mm lugs, which makes changing the bracelet easy, a 120-click unidirectional bezel, a date display, and a screw-down crown situated at three o’clock. 

The watch uses a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface and has an overall flat face and chamfered edge. On the inside of that is a well-executed dial that is superbly clean with a mind-blowing lume. 

The back of the case is opaque – so unlike some watches in this collection, you won’t be able to see the movement beating inside – and screwed down with a recessed stamp of the Seiko Tsunami logo on the back. 

Beneath it, Seiko’s manufactured Caliber 4R36 offers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours alongside the hacking seconds and a manual-winding function.

Other SKX Alternatives Aside From Seiko

There are several outstanding diving watches on the market with rock-solid specs and price tags that are hard to resist. And while they may look the same at a glance, they all have distinct looks and features to suit different tastes. Let’s take a look at some standout performers.

Orient Kamasu (Mako III)

Orient Kamasu (Mako III)

The Orient Kamasu is one badass model that can make us forget the SKX and is also one of the most popular diving watches from Orient. Not only is the Kamasu an affordable quality timepiece, but it is also a valuable collectible for those just entering the realm of collecting, and every great entry-level dive watch list certainly has its name. 

This is the most standard entry-level Orient diver’s. And guess what? It comes with Sapphire glass. Made entirely of 316L stainless steel, the size of this watch’s casing is 41.8mm wide with a thickness of 12.8mm and a lug-to-lug of 47mm. The timepiece is just right and will sit snugly on various wrists. 

It weighs in at 154 grams (this figure varies slightly depending on the strap), making it more or less equal to the SKX. The shape is different, though. It uses a flat sapphire crystal and has no curvature or doming, so there’s no distortion of the indices when read from an angle. Also, the crown at the conventional 3 o’clock position is not SKX-like. 

The bracelet is versatile, with links that mimic the finishing pattern of the case and a clasp double secured by two side-release buttons and a flip-lock. Orient and Seiko collaborated to present the caliber F6922, which powers the watch. 

The caliber F6922 is an improved and robust movement that contains 22 jewels, beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, offers both manual winding and hacking capabilities, and exhibits a power reserve of 40 hours.

Citizen Promaster Diver (BN0150-28E)

Citizen Promaster Diver (BN0150-28E)

With an irresistible price tag, the Citizen Promaster Diver is one of Citizen’s most popular diving watches! It is definitely worth considering as an alternative to the discontinued SKX line as it is a solar-powered analog quartz watch with an insane power reserve of approximately six months.

Featuring a 44-millimeters-wide stainless-steel case with the crown and date at the 4 o’clock position, the Promaster Diver is a little smaller than the old Promaster Diver. Instead of a mechanical movement inside, there’s an Eco Drive caliber. 

Yes, let’s talk about this stunning gloss black dial! One of the great strengths of the Promaster Automatic and many of the watches in this collection is how readable the hands are. The dial is pretty basic – no surprises at all. 

The large white trapezoidal markers for the hours contrast perfectly against the black dial, with stylized hands that enable you to easily differentiate minutes and hours, joining forces to enhance legibility. 

Both markers and hands are primarily covered in luminous material, while the brand’s logo can be seen below 12 o’clock, and a water resistance indicator stays above the 6 o’clock position. Overall the watch is solid, well-executed, and good-looking.

Like the SKX, it has a 200m water resistance, a screwed case back, a unidirectional bezel with a 60-minute scale printed on an aluminum insert, and a bright lume in the hands and time indices.

Conclusion

Seiko has been in the watchmaking business since 1881. The brand is recognized worldwide for Its technological innovation and accessibility. Seiko’s timepieces represent precision and ingenuity; anyone who keys in the words ‘best entry-level watch’ into any search engine would find the SKX littered across top suggestions. 

The reason is simple. The SKX is possibly the choicest iteration of an affordable tool watch the vast world of watchmaking has unveiled for a very long time. The movement (7S26) is robust, reliable, and durable and proffers decades of carefree service. The watch itself is impressively accurate, with a flawless design and decent bezel action. 

The case is rock solid, and the dial is a true reminiscence of the ’90s. If you are thinking of adding one to your collection, go right ahead!

30 BEST Perpetual Calendar Watches

Perpetual Calendar watches represent the most valuable grand complication in Haute Horlogerie. Few watch manufacturers attempt to make a perpetual calendar function because it is a very intricate work of art that is unimaginably complicated with hundreds of tiny mechanical parts inside which typically require over a month to assemble.

‘Perpetual’ means forever and that is just how long a perpetual calendar watch should last because everybody forgets what day of the week it is sometimes. But there’s an anomaly. According to the Gregorian calendar, the next exceptional non-leap year will be 2100. So perpetual calendars will require a manual adjustment then, which is not very much of a problem for the majority of us. That being said, these timepieces are valid for many years, and belong to the category of a grand complication, which features sophisticated mechanics with some gears inside that turn multiple times per second, or only once every four years or more. 

From inexpensive entry-level watches that open up the world of perpetual calendar watches, all the way to the most luxurious and exquisite timepieces here’s a roundup of 30 of the best perpetual calendar watches available today.

1. Peugeot Vintage Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phase

Peugeot Vintage Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phase

I know what you’re thinking; that this right here is too good to be true. And indeed it is. You say “Peugeot”, and I say, “affordable luxury!” 

Not to be confused with French car maker, Peugeot has been in the watchmaking business since 1957. In the 1970s, the brand was famous for crafting high-end luxury gold watches that were certainly revolutionary back then.

Today, let’s just say they developed a soft spot for one and all. Fitted with an accurate Quartz movement that is manufactured by Seiko and backed by the Peugeot Lifetime warranty, the Peugeot Vintage Perpetual Calendar with moon phase watch is offered in a brown genuine leather band that can be adjusted to fit wrists sizes from six inches to eight inches.

The watch, which comes with three sub-dials indicating the day of the week, date, and a decorative sun-moon phase display, looks rather clean and legible. The 14K Gold plated case is very handsome, measures 40mm in diameter, and is neither overly large nor can it be described as small. It costs as low as $ 79.50 on Peugeot’s webpage.

2. Seiko SPC129P1 Neo Classic Alarm Perpetual Chronograph

Seiko SPC129P1 Neo Classic Alarm Perpetual Chronograph

Let’s be honest. If this item was a mechanical watch from a brand like Sohne or Patek Philippe, it would have cost a lot more than $165. But behold what we have here! An in-house perpetual calendar watch from Seiko with a high degree of design and precision. This ideal entry-level watch is fresh and bold, with a layout that presents the entire perpetual calendar information on the dial without looking cluttered. 

The white dial is enhanced by rose gold-tone hands, offering high legibility –at least with good light. The case measures 45mm in diameter and 12mm thick which is reasonably sized for a man’s watch. Attention to detail is apparent. The day of the week sub-dial located under the 12 numeral, is circular-grained and the rose gold-tone crown with a brown alligator-grained leather strap of 22mm lug width, all contribute to making this timepiece visually compelling and appealing.

Powering the 100 meters water-resistant watch is the Seiko Caliber 7T86, a quartz watch movement that offers excellent accuracy. Oh, and it has a chronograph and tachymeter function.

3. Seiko SPC131P1

Seiko SPC131P1

Seiko…the most respected watch brand from outside Switzerland that strives to raise the pure essentials of watchmaking to the level of art and creators of the first quartz wristwatch ever — the Astron, again presents this affordable ultra-modern chronograph in a 43mm stainless steel case with a black leather strap and buckle.

It has the usual calendar functions, day-date-month, stopwatch, Alarm, and 24-hour display, but the things that jump out at you right away about this Seiko SPC131P1 are details like the sparkling blue hands that come just in the right shade, the second’s hand which have a crescent moon on one end to designate the date pointer and an arrow to designate the seconds’ pointer, and a date and month scale around an inner ring, in addition to a tachymeter scale around the outer rim of the white dial.

In all, the Seiko SPC131P1 is very beautiful and classy and is fitted with a Seiko Caliber 7T86 quartz movement so you can be sure that it’s a very accurate timepiece. The appearance of this piece is sleek, and with a water resistance of up to 100 meters, the wearer will be pleased by just how powerful its engine is. So if you are just entering into the entry-level watch world, this piece comes highly recommended and costs around 200 USD.

4. Orient Perpetual Calendar – EU07008D

Orient Perpetual Calendar – EU07008D

Best known for producing exceptional mechanical watches, Orient, a respected watchmaking brand, presents this unique perpetual calendar watch in a 44mm contemporary stainless steel case, and although the date needs to be adjusted every month or so, the Orient Perpetual Calendar is nonetheless an impressive watch.

You get a detailed multi-year perpetual calendar watch (accurate at least until the year 2031) that verges on the sporty side, a multi-layered chapter ring for ultimate tracking, silver hands with luminous accents, and a convenient date aperture with a blue dial.

Power is provided by the Cal.46D40, a mechanical movement that provides 38 hours of power reserve, and the beautifully colored dial, inspired by the moon, gathers all necessary indications of a QP, yet with a certain twist that evokes the elegance of refined sports watches and represent one of the best of Orient’s classic aesthetics. The sporty EU07008D supports water resistance of 100 meters and sells for approximately US$400.

5. Tissot T0636371603700

Tissot T0636371603700

Tissot; the brand whose aim has been to provide ‘gold value at silver prices’ offers this elegant Perpetual Calendar timepiece that will not break the bank in a 42 mm stainless steel case with a synthetic sapphire dial window. The watch has a classic and sporty design with a monochrome silver-toned look, featuring a diamond-textured white dial with multi-functionality for the date, day, month, and seconds, allowing the wearer to see the date, day, and month on the dial. 

The Croco-embossed faux-leather band with tonal topstitching has a buckle closure that holds both sides together rather than your typical, belt-like clasp – meaning it will be quick to throw on in the morning. The face is large, but not overwhelming and the day/month/date indicators are all subtly displayed. A swiss quartz movement powers this watch making it as accurate as you need it to be and offering low maintenance needs, battery life endurance, and lightweight.

It is water resistant up to 30 meters, which means it can withstand splashes or brief immersions in water, but will not be suitable for swimming. These perfect business and casual perpetual calendar watches are all about adventure and their retail prices start around 450 USD.

6. Citizen Chronograph With Perpetual Calendar: BL5403-03X

Citizen Chronograph With Perpetual Calendar: BL5403-03X

If you want an affordable timepiece with technical advancements and a sporty style, then look no further. The Citizen BL5403-03X has a daring sporty look that fits in anywhere and will never go out of style. Citizen seamlessly incorporates three sub-dials with 12/24-hour time, 1/20-second time, and an alarm. The 48mm stainless steel rose gold-tone case with screw-back blends well with the brown leather strap with white contrast stitching. 

The thing that jumps out at you right away about Citizen BL5403-03X is just how much information it conveys at a glance. This 1/20 second Chrono measures 60 minutes, with a perpetual calendar, 12/24 hour time, dual time, alarm, and rotating inner ring. The appearance of this piece is sleek with luminous hands/hour markers. Water resistant to 100 meters, it is powered by light so will never require a battery. This elegant yet stylish timepiece from Citizen wears well with just about everything and goes for approximately 500 USD.

7. Citizen BL8140-55E

Citizen is a brand with a strong background, specifically in the field of affordable iconic watches. Think BN0150, the Promaster Professional Diver Citizen Watch, and think of classy timepieces that fit the budget and style of everyone. Driven by the desire to provide a distinct watch for every man, Citizen presents this BL8140-55E, a very ‘citizen’ looking chronograph watch crafted by artisan watchmakers.

What enhances the watch are the finer details such as the texture on the chic black-toned dial, applied faceted indexes, and silver accented case and bracelet. This timepiece comes in a 42mm case and is powered by solar or light energy. Fully charging your Citizen BL8140-55E can provide a reserve of up to four months, and about a year if you’re on power-save mode – how cool is that?

The hands glow but unfortunately, the dial makers are not luminous so you may not be able to see where the hands are pointing and the sapphire crystal really does set this watch off. With dual time display, low charge indicator, and the advantage of battery-free Eco-Drive technology for $725, Citizen deserves some accolades from both fans and critics.

8. Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture.

Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Frederique Constant’s motto has always been “affordable luxury”, and that totally reflects in this Slimline Perpetual Calendar. In-house designed, produced, and assembled, the Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture was born out of Frederique Constant’s passion for high-quality horology and happens to be one of Frederique Constant’s most innovative timepieces offered for under $9,000. 

In many ways, this piece is a classic QP (quantième perpétuel) and in other ways, it breaks even with tradition. So if you’re someone who has always wanted to sport a perpetual calendar watch but balked at the Patek Phillippe-level cost, you should definitely take a closer look at this timepiece. The 42mm gold-plated polished steel case watch comes with a brown alligator leather strap and is water resistant up to 30 meters.

Powered by Frederique Constant’s own caliber FC-755; an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve with what I’d consider standard decoration on the rotor, bridges, and plate, this watch seriously outperforms its price tag of around $8,900. You can even get the stainless steel version for approximately $8,800.

9. Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture – FC-775N4NH6b

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture - FC-775N4NH6b

Frédérique Constant’s raison d’être is to use cutting-edge technology to create affordable luxury and in this case, the Swiss luxury watch brand has succeeded incredibly well. Drawing on the familiar FC-775 which was launched in 2016 alongside the Slimline Perpetual, The new Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture comes in a 41mm steel case, decorated with a vertical brush and a round and polished bezel that merges the original Highlife collection from 1999 with this new Manufacture line.

The hands are silver colored with a luminous white treatment, while the navy blue dial is split between the calendar function with the leap year and month indication occurring on top, a sub dial for the day on the left, that for the date on the right and the moon phase indication on the lower side, all offering a balanced and agreeable design.

The Highlife Perpetual Calendar mechanism is powered by the brand’s iconic manufacture automatic movement, while the see-through case back of the watch reveals the respected Highlife manufacture self-winding caliber known to power most of Frédérique Constant’s complications including its chronograph and Moonphase watch. It stores 38 hours of power reserve and beats at a 4Hz frequency. All this high-functioning goodness is offered at approximately US$9,800.

10. Glashutte Original Karree Perpetual Calendar Moon

Glashutte Original Karree Perpetual Calendar Moon

Glashutte watches have a manner of appearing adventurous yet understated with simple, clean, and never cluttered dials. The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is no exception with a timeless design that represents the essence of Glashütte Original in its purest form. Featuring an elegant red gold case that measures 42 mm in diameter, the Karree Perpetual Calendar Moon is easily one of the most evocative perpetual calendar watches for collectors with simple tastes, with a brown Alligator leather strap that sits comfortably and compliments the warm tone of the red gold case.

Blending character, beauty, and charm, the slim bezel offers a generous view of the lacquered dial with delicate silver grain, alongside the laser-cut and black galvanized indexes – corresponding harmoniously with Glashutte Original blue hands. The Roman numerals and hands are subtle in form, with excellent legibility against the silver-grainé backdrop. The blue/gold moon phase is placed at eight o’clock, while a black panorama date on an ivory coloured background sits at four o’clock.

Glashütte Original’s manufactory automatic movement, Calibre 36, sets new standards for precision, stability, running time, and aesthetics and features a skeletonized rotor with a double-G symbol and 21-carat gold oscillation weight, and provides an impressive 100 hours of power. It costs around $20,000.

11. Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Ludwig

Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Ludwig

Ulysse Nardin watches were used by over 50 of the world’s navies from the 1900s up until 1950, and the brand is known for manufacturing highly accurate marine chronometers. Paying tribute to master watchmaker, Ludwig Oechslin, who was responsible for producing the very first Ulysse Nardin’s perpetual calendar in 1996, Ulysse Nardin presents this 41mm stainless steel case watch with a silvery-white dial, that allows adjustment of all indications with a twist of the crown.

Generally recognized for delivering complexity in simple packages, the perpetual Ludwig’s dial is both stunning and highly practical. Blued leaf-shaped gorgeous hands impart the hours and minutes (denoted with slender, faceted batons) and despite the different indications displayed, the dial manages to remain uncluttered and simple to interpret. 

The stainless steel case features elongated lugs that attach an inwardly arched leather, making the watch seem a bit larger and heightening the visual interest. Ulysse Nardin showcases its prowess in the self-winding Caliber UN-33 user-friendly movement which allows the wearer to perform easy adjustments to the date with a mere twist of the crown. The power reserve is approximately 48 hours and it retails for around US$21,300.

12. Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar

Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar

The Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar offers collectors a classically handsome watch with the looks of the Geneve triple calendar watches from the 1940s. Coming in an elegant 40 mm case that is made of stainless steel, the narrow bezel offers the silvery-white dial a sensible layout. On the dial, one can easily see the hash marks on the scale which makes reading the hours pretty easy. Short elegantly curved lugs attach a black alligator strap that has a rose-gold pronged buckle. 

The watch is 12.3mm in height (slightly thicker than the Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar that was released in 2014) but is relatively slim in comparison to other perpetual calendar watches and at 40 mm, the stainless steel case will sit snugly and comfortably on the wrist. Inside the Perpetual calendar watch, the self-winding cal. MB 29.22, a brand-new movement made by ValFleurier exclusively for Montblanc provides a 48-hour power reserve.

The monochromatic look is offset by the beautiful deep blue of the moon phase at the bottom of the dial, along with blue text on the dial and chapter ring that is further highlighted by the refined curved horns, and domed sapphire glass box. The Montblanc is priced at approximately US$22,595.

13. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

Well, hello fans of Marvel’s Doctor Strange… Figured out Benedict Cumberbatch was wearing a Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar throughout the movie. Sssshhhh, he knows what it’s worth!

With nearly 200 years of history, Jaeger-LeCoultre is a world of its own. This remarkably driven watch manufacturer quickly set the world of fine watchmaking alight with creativity that pushes the limits of watchmaking as showcased in Its ultra-thin collection. Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case protected by sapphire crystal glass, the Jaeger-LeCoultre master ultra-thin perpetual calendar features a silvered grey dial with polished black nickel appliques and no numerals that gives it a harmonious visual unity.

The exterior is shrouded in a black leather strap with a double folding buckle which entices and intrigues.  Underneath, an automatic, integrated movement of just 4.72mm, wound by a micro-rotor, offers 38 hours of power reserve. It is functional, water resistant to about 50 meters, and packs other exciting features to this relatively slim case for around $ 25,700.

14. IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar

IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar

In 1985, IWC introduced a revolutionary new watch when watch legend Kurt Klaus developed the first watch that could combine a perpetual calendar with an automatic chronograph and could allow all adjustments to be done using the crown.

As a tribute to the iconic 1985 timepiece created by Kurt Klaus, IWC presents this extremely modern and bold timepiece as a contemporary interpretation of the iconic 1985 Da Vinci in a 43 mm circular stainless steel case. The extreme precision of the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar is made possible by the in-house 89630 calibre, an automatic, self-winding movement that offers an impressive 68 hours of power reserve.

A moon-phase indicator disc still lies beneath the dial and mimics the waxing and waning of the moon, diverging only one day in 577.5 years from the actual phase of the moon. Going for approximately US$33,500, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph features a 43mm steel case,slate-colored dial with luminescence, hour and minute counters that are combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”, and a black alligator leather strap.

15. Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar

With the rise in popularity of the first pocket watches, came the fame of Glashütte. From classic marine chronometers to iconic Bauhaus-inspired watches, the story of Glashutte is one of tumultuous excellence. The brand here extends Its Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar collection (which already had three existing variants in stainless steel, rose gold, and white gold), with a limited edition of hundred pieces of this self-winding perpetual calendar timepiece that comes in a 42 mm stainless steel case.

A slim, polished bezel with a flat-edged case middle, punctuated with the correction pin pushers gives the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar a classically elegant look. A 42mm diameter case means it will hug the wrist well, while a 12.8mm thickness means it is just in that sweet spot between large and dainty.

The dial is highly legible with blued steel hands showing apparent attention to detail. As with earlier versions, the leap year sub-dial maintains its location under the numeral 12, while a Calibre 36 mechanical automatic movement powers it for an amazing 100 hours while operating at a modern 4 Hz beat rate. It retails for approximately $33,500.

16. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun

The Top Gun Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar by IWC is a commanding beast. Coming in an oversized case of 46.2mm diameter and 15.4mm height, the watch is big. Zip code: BIG! Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder – that’s all we’ll say about this bold perpetual calendar pilot’s watch.

The display is inspired by the perpetual calendar module made by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s and you can easily see the matte black based dial’s large, and generously-lumed propeller hands, a triangle with dots at 12 o’clock, and indications for hours/minutes, small seconds, power reserve and a perpetual calendar that displays the date, day of the week, month, and year four digits, with a double moon phase for both Northern and Southern Hemispheres. 

The case is fashioned from zirconium oxide, lending the watch a  “stealth” appearance and making it extremely resistant to scratches, while the case back and crown are made from grade 5 titanium highlighting the brand’s inherent DNA with the materials it is crafted out of.

Under the screwed case back is the caliber 52615, with a base movement powered by the QP module on top and wound by a Pellaton winding system that provides 168 hours of power reserve. It can continue running for up to one week without any loss of accuracy after being removed from the wrist. It retails for approximately $38,600.

17. Blancpain Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Réf. 6057 3642 55A

Blancpain Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Réf. 6057 3642 55A

Anchored in tradition, Blancpain presents this 38 mm timepiece in a luxurious 18k red gold case. Considered a Classique among classiques, the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Réf. 6057 3642 55A, reaffirms Blancpain’s attachment to genuine watchmaking values.

The perpetual calendar which will require no adjustments until the year 2100, is handsome, elegant, and verges on dressy, with its applied shapely gold roman numerals that break up the monochromatic dial. The bold indications on the dial (seen the highlighted expression of the man on the Moon yet?) have a warm subtle design with easy-to-read calendar functions offering legibility and elegance. 

The months and leap year indication can be seen at 12 o’clock, the date at 3 o’clock, and the day of the week at 9 o’clock, while the moon phase dial is majestically enthroned at 6 o’clock. The engine keeping all the functions in perfect synch is Calibre 5954; Blancpain’s automatic movement of 351 parts with a robust 72-hour power reserve and a modern silicon hairspring. 

It costs around US$45,000.

18. Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Perpetual

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Perpetual

Did you know that the very first wristwatches were worn by women? 

Contrary to popular belief, the first wristwatch was made for Countess Koscowicz by Patek Philippe in 1868, according to Guinness World Records. Women’s wristwatches were commonly known as ‘Wristlets’, while men wore their watches around their necks, on belts, as brooches, etc

Over the years it seemed the most luxurious watches were made for men but Jaeger‑LeCoultre proves here that watches meant for women do not have to be less elegant with this watch presented in a 37.5mm white gold case that features diamonds with exceptionally small calibers.

The same movement used in the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual; Calibre 868 – an automatic movement housed in a diamond exterior, well-known for its precision and stability with a power reserve of 38 hours adds to its elegance. Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s attention to detail is apparent. The elegantly laid out dial is perfectly balanced, with the circular-grained moon phase sub-dial located under the 12 numeral, and a sunray-brushed finish that offers a classy look for around US$46,000.

19. Hublot Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar Sapphire

Hublot Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar Sapphire

Big, Bold, and Begging to be desired, Hublot, a brand known for crafting its watches from less-than-traditional materials like carbon fiber and fine ceramics, presents the Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar in a 45 mm unique brushed king gold case.

The classically laid out skeletonized dial has an incredible depth and features black sub-dials with white lettering in addition to king gold-toned hour markers. The dial is all about legibility and can be read at night as the hour markers and rose gold-toned hands have luminous fill. The chronograph mechanism features a Flyback function which means you can stop and reset the stopwatch with the push of a button.

The reverse side of the case features a transparent sapphire crystal which gives you a delightful peek of the impressive HUB 1270 movement; a 28,800 VpH automatic movement with 46 jewels and 416 parts. This amazing caliber can hold its power for 72 hours straight when fully wound. It is priced at US$69,000,  which is somewhat on the middle ground for watches with this complication.

20. Breguet Classique 5327BR/1E/9V6

With roots that go way back to the 1750s and more importantly, a production history that started in the early 1800s when Breguet made the first wristwatch ever, Breguet is one of the oldest watch brands that is responsible for a host of inventions.

Elegant, and simple in its execution, the Classique 5327 features a beautiful guilloche engraved silver dial in a 39 mm 18-carat rose gold case, with the brand’s typical hand-guilloché dial. The blue steel hands refine the warmth of the timepiece and offer a generous contrast with the gold case and brown alligator leather strap. 

The 39 mm of the case is well-sized for today’s market and wears large due to the slim highly polished bezel, but overall is well proportioned at only 9 mm thick. Breguet‘s caliber 502.3.DRP is a perpetual calendar movement capable of indicating day, date, month, leap year, power reserve, and moon phase. Thirty-four jewels feature within the movement and the power reserve is approximately 48 hours. It retails for US$77,500.

21. H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1800-0204

The Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 1800-0204), from H. Moser & Cie, is perhaps the most stunning and refreshing timepiece on the market. Combining humor with the brand’s unique luxe minimalist design in the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, H. Moser & Cie has produced a grail watch for many. Crafted from white gold, the 42.0 mm round case of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar features a Funky Blue fumé dial protected by a curved sapphire crystal that has the brand’s logo in transparent lacquer.

The dial is further beautified by an aqua blue sunburst fumé dial finish, polished white gold leaf-shaped hands, curiously mismatched rounded black date window, and applied indices. The small seconds subdial is displayed at 6 o’clock, and an instantaneous date-changing mechanism allows the date to change in a flash at midnight –which is so pleasant to behold. Beige kudu leather straps, polished lugs, and a softly stepped bezel design, all add dramatic reflections to the classically simple timepiece.

The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1800-0204 is powered by the brand’s in-house HMC 800 hand-wound perpetual calendar movement with twin mainspring barrels that allow it to attain an impressive 168-hour power reserve at a steady 18,000 BPH beat rate. It is priced at approximately US$84,000.

22. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony  Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony  Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

First launched in 2011, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony  Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watch had previously appeared in 2019 with a blue dial and in 2017 with a slate grey dial. Inspired by 1950s Vacheron Constantin models, this 18K pink gold watch with a silvery opaline dial retains Vacheron Constantin’s minimalist vintage watch design and houses the legendary ultra-slim automatic movement of only 4.05 mm thick, which will keep accurate time till 2100.

Striking a beautiful balance between taut lines and curves, the perpetual calendar follows Vacheron Constantin’s subtle design with eaeasy-to-readalendar functions. The many indications on the dial are all well displayed, offering legibility and elegance. The leap year indications and 48 months can be seen at 12 o’clock, the date at 3 o’clock, and the day of the week at 9 o’clock. From the calendar hands to the hour markers and the moons, we can easily appreciate the work that has gone into crafting all in solid 18k pink gold.

Thanks to the ultra-thin in-house movement by Vacheron; the caliber 1120 QP (based on the legendary caliber 1120 of 1967 with a height of just 2.45 mm), the watch can beat at a sedate rate of 19,800vph with a power reserve of 40 hours. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (pink gold) comes on a dark brown alligator strap, with an openwork case back that reveals the exceptional hand-finished details of the self-winding mechanical movement. It retails for US$89,574.

23. Patek Philippe ref.7140

Patek Philippe ref.7140

Leveraging Its long-standing competence in the domain of highly sophisticated watch mechanisms, Patek Philippe flexes its muscles in this elegant mechanical perpetual calendar watch for ladies. The brand debuted the Ladies’ line that featured chronographs in 2009,  but it was until 2012 that a perpetual calendar complication was featured in Patek Philippe’s Ladies’ watch. The Ladies First Perpetual Calendar comes with a strong femininity that isn’t overshadowed by the technical content. 

The diamond-encrusted rose gold case and silvery white dial blend beautifully with the gold applied hour markers, and a shiny alligator strap with mink grey stitches. Easily one of 2012’s gorgeous and most potent ladies’ complication watches, an ultra-thin, mechanical self-winding movement; caliber 240 Q, is the sine qua non of this stunning perpetual calendar model. It measures just 3.88mm in height and drives the functional calendar features. It is water resistant to 30 meters and retails for around US$95,000

24. Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in 18-carat white gold (Reference 345.056)

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in 18-carat white gold (Reference 345.056)

Designed for the modern man on the go, Lange 1 delivers this unique mechanical and conceptual solution timepiece in a 41.9 mm white-gold case. Launched in 2021 as a replacement for the venerable Langematik Perpetual, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar excellently borrows from the architecture of an existing caliber; the L021.1 which has here been reworked and aesthetically refined to caliber L021.3 which now accommodates a calendar mechanism.

The display is functional and unique, with the day of the week taking the place of the retrograde power reserve, and a red indicator “4” denoting a leap year, being a small window at six o’clock. It might feel thick and heavy at about 42 mm and 12 mm high and the domed bezel might make the case feel slightly bulbous, but it is identical to that of the Daymatic with small pushers recessed into sides of the case and a dark-brown alligator leather strap that makes it easy to wear.

The crucial bits of information, such as day, month, and year are easily readable, with the month visible through a ring around the dial’s outer edge, while the moon phase and day/night indicator are intricately combined in the seconds sub-dial. Oh, and the calendar indication jumps instantly at the end of a month, adding to some pretty fun midnight viewing. It costs around US$100,000.

25. Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar

While World War 2 was raging across Europe, Patek Philippe unexpectedly started the production of its perpetual calendar timepieces and since that time, the brand has released some of the most exclusive and luxurious perpetual calendar watches. Taking cues from the perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s (such as the ref. 725), the Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P comes in a 41.3 mm platinum case with short elegantly inclined lugs that attach a hand-stitched navy blue alligator leather with square scales.

The dial, like the lugs, is vintage-inspired and features various shades of blue, with the minute track and calendar markings in separate shades, while easily readable calendar indications sit tightly below 12 o’clock. The blank dial belies the incredible self-winding mechanical movement inside, namely the cal. 30-255 PS – Patek Philippe’s most impressive recent movements feature a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, and a 48-hour power reserve. It retails for US$140,000.

26. MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Palladium

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Palladium

MB&F, short for Maximilian Büsser & Friends released the most complex model in the Legacy Machine family in the year 2015, and this complex mechanism easily won the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) a year after it’s debut. What is unique about the Legacy Machine is that it features a visually stunning in-house movement developed from the ground by watchmaking genius, Stephen McDonnell.

The astonishing movement is designed for user-friendly and trouble-free use and eliminates the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars such as jamming gears, skipping dates, automatic deactivation of the adjuster pushers when the calendar changes, and so on, as against the usual grand levier system – thanks to its revolutionary mechanical processor.

The Legacy Machine Perpetual Palladium is crafted in 950 palladium; a rare metal that has a natural silvery-white lustre, does not require plating, and is harder and more durable than gold. The perpetual calendar mechanism is displayed on top of the movement main plate underneath the sub-dials, showcasing the suspended 14mm balance wheel hovering on top of the movement, but still keeping the dial as legible and elegantly complex as ever. It has a power reserve of 72 hours and retails for around US$202,000.

27. Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (Ref.26574OR.OO.1220OR.03)

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (Ref.26574OR.OO.1220OR.03)

Swiss watch company, Audemars Piguet was founded by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in 1875, but it was only in 1955 that the brand began production of its very first perpetual calendar wristwatches that featured a leap year indication. The perpetual calendar collection was successful enough to represent one of the most significant horological innovations by the brand during that period.

Coming in a 41 mm 18-carat pink gold case with glare-proof sapphire crystal and case back, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch is a prototype of the SIHH debuted in 2018 as RD#2.  The sub-dial at 3 o’clock neatly displays the date in a slightly recessed sub-register, giving a thoughtful depth to the otherwise smooth blue dial with a grande tapisserie pattern.

In a similar fashion, the days of the month are placed at 9 o’clock, with the months of the year at 12. On the reverse, the watch features a circular graining, along with finely-engraved markings. The watch is powered by the AP caliber 2120/2, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 caliber movement, famous for its adoption by both Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Starting prices are from US$359,000 up.

28. The Bovet Dimier Récital 21

The Bovet Dimier Récital 21

Unique for employing women artisans, Bovet is also known for combining the most sophisticated mechanisms with the finest high-quality artistic watches. The Dimier collection from Bovet features complicated timepieces that are produced using domes, discs, and three-dimensional hands to enhance intuitiveness and elegance.

Presented in a 44.4mm titanium or red gold case, the Bovet Dimier Récital 21 is immediately recognizable thanks to its writing-slope shaped case tapering towards six o’clock. The central dial and the seconds dial feature a blue circular brushed finish with eight layers of lacquer. The main timekeeping is minimized at the center of the display, providing more space in the periphery for perpetual calendar information.

The leap year cycle is beautifully displayed in a circular aperture at 3 o’clock, the month at six, and the day at 12 o’clock. The caliber 113DM05-QPR, entirely designed and manufactured in the Bovet 1822 workshops, powers the watch for up to five days and features a corrector that makes it possible for you to adjust the display by correcting the date after an extended period of use. It costs around US$400,000.

29. A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbograph Perpetual 706.050

A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbograph Perpetual 706.050

Expertise, combined with a long established tradition of innovation, has given rise to the A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbograph Perpetual timepiece. Coming in an 18-carat honey gold case, the tourbograph perpetual pour le mérite combines a total of five outstanding complications fusée-and-chain transmission, tourbillon, rattrapante chronograph, and perpetual calendar.

Even though it still can’t be considered a Grande Complication since it lacks a chiming function(the term has been used to refer only to the combination of a split-seconds chronograph, a minute repeater, and a perpetual calendar),  It’s an incredible tourbillon, and that alone is as impressive as a grande complication. 

You may argue that the tourbillon is seen ubiquitously today, but what separates this tourbillon from the others is the fusée-and-chain mechanism; a bridge curved like a bow on the dial that supports the mechanism and gives the watch a sense of depth. This mechanism ensures optimal timekeeping by ensuring that constant force is driven to the escapement despite waning torque from an unwinding mainspring.

Inside, the caliber L133.1, a 52-jeweled, 684-part movement (exclusive of the chain parts in the fusée-and-chain mechanism), can be seen through the transparent case back. It has a 36-hour power reserve and operates at a stately 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour beat rate.

It might not be an over-the-top Haute Horlogerie movement, but it is functional. Starting prices for this high-end luxurious timepiece begin from US$510,000.

30. Patek Philippe 5740 Nautilus Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe 5740 Nautilus Perpetual Calendar

Wondering what half a million-dollar watch looks like?? Take a closer look, because this piece right here adorns the wrists of people with abundant financial means. Retailing for US$516,600, the Patek Philippe 5740 Nautilus Perpetual Calendar (which is right at the top of my bucket list) comes out as iconic and desirable as a supreme timepiece should be.

Still, wondering what a Patek Philippe watch of over half a million dollars comes with? Well, apart from being the first grand complication in the Nautilus collection, the Patek Philippe 5740 Nautilus Perpetual Calendar watch blends a sports appeal with technical sophistication. 

The watch features a very recognizable dial with blue embossed horizontal stripes and a fine sunburst finish, the index hour markers are made of polished 18kt white gold and are filled with luminous material for maximum visibility in the dark, it is presented in a case made of precious metal (which is exquisitely polished), is water-resistant to 60 meters and it has a strap made of white gold.

At the heart of the watch lies the ultra-thin in-house Patek Philippecalibere 240 Q that self-winds with the kinetic energy generated by the wrist movement of the wearer using a solid 18kt gold weighted micro-rotor.

Franck Muller vs Richard Mille

When big names like Cristiano Ronaldo and Jay Z flaunt a high-end watch with pride, the world pays attention. From movie stars like Arnold Schwarzenegger to star sports players like Odell Beckham, Richard Mille and Franck Muller have become a go-to watch brand for celebrities who want to collaborate on designs and stylish timepieces.

As a rabid demand for Richard Mille watches continues to escalate among top figures, many watch enthusiasts are left disillusioned by the long waiting list, and shocking price. This has led many buyers to explore other high-end brands, one of which is Frank Muller.

Considered the original Richard Mille, Franck Muller has become the one brand that offers high-end, unique, and stylish timepieces that are analog to certain Richard Mille models such as the Cintrée Curvex which has a tonneau (or barrel-shaped) case with ergonomic doming. But is Franck Muller better than Richard Mille? This in-depth and insightful comparison & review will help you choose the right timepiece between these two.

Franck Muller vs Richard Mille: Brief history of Franck Muller

Swiss watchmaker Franck Muller was born in 1958. The brand takes its name from its founder who is a  trained master watchmaker from the town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. His passion to produce timepieces unlike any other started after he graduated from Ecole d’Horlogerie de Genève, a watchmaking school in Geneva.

He began by repairing top-quality complicated timepieces, which were mostly pocket watches from the collection of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In 1984, he designed his first tourbillon wristwatch, and following its success, he launched his watch brand in 1991 where he began designing limited ultra-complicated timepieces for private clients.

His collections immediately became famous in Europe and the United States and since its inception, the Geneva-based House of Franck Muller has shocked the watch world with a string of “world premieres” and many other intricate timepieces earning him the ‘Master of Complications’ titles. 

Today, the Franck Muller brand has become world-famous for its Luxury and Grand Complications produced with a quality skillset and watchmaking expertise. The brand’s headquarters, also called Watch land, is located in Genthod, north of Geneva with other production sites in Lajoux, Les Bois, Plan-les-Ouates, and Meyrin.

Richard Mille

Richard Mille

Just like Franck Muller, Richard Mille is relatively new to the luxury watch market. The brand was founded in 2001 by Dominique Guenat and Richard Mille, in Les Breuleux, Switzerland, and is known for successfully using extreme luxury pricing. His watchmaking career began after he started working at Finhor, a local watchmaking company in 1974.

Finhor was bought by Matra in 1981 and Richard Mille rose to a managerial position which he held for about ten years until a disagreement about commercial strategy at Mauboussin, where he was a shareholder, made him leave his position as General Manager of the watchmaking division and launch his range of watches.

 Together with Dominique Guenat, he drew up plans and founded the Richard Mille watchmaking brand in collaboration with Swiss watchmaking manufacturer Audemars Piguet. It all started with Richard Mille dreaming of combining the worlds of cars and aeronautics with Haute Horlogerie.

From the use of extraordinary components like space-age materials such as Carbon TPT to grade 5 titanium and graphene, Richard Mille has blazed the trail in the watch world of innovation and Technology. Richard Mille is also the first watch brand to develop new movements for every model and utilize materials from the racing and aerospace sectors.

 From the unveiling of Its first watch, the RM 001 Tourbillon in 2001 was made from titanium and carbon nano-fiber to the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph, a highly complex sports timepiece with a skeletonized automatic winding movement with extraordinarily shock-resistance, Richard Mille has made headlines in the luxury timepiece industry. You should also look for some of the Richard Mille Alternatives.

Unique Design: Franck Muller vs. Richard Mille

Franck Muller Watches

Both Franck Muller and Richard Mille have effectively incorporated the watch world of luxurious design with dazzlement that is uniquely attractive even to the untrained eye. The watches produced by these brands have unique designs that are far from conventional, but each has a distinct look and feel. Franck Muller timepieces are easily identifiable thanks to their Cintrée Curvex shape and sporty elegance. 

The brand is known to encapsulate artistic flair with unique aesthetics and beautiful designs of the numerals, crystallizing the glamorous culture of the late 1990s and the high-tech aspects of the 21st century. Inspired by automotive designs, Richard  Mille is world-renowned for producing high-end timepieces that are futuristic and revolutionary.

The brand has established the production of iconic tonneau-shaped cases that are unique yet classic in appearance as its main feature when it comes to unique designs but looking back at history, we see that unique tonneau-shape watches with large numbers and indices had always been a great representation of the Franck Muller’s central theme and design so both brands have similar watches, the only difference is the flair and technical twist that Richard Mille adds to his which ultimately increases the appeal of his timepieces.

Reputation: Franck Muller vs. Richard Mille

When it comes to reputation, it’s hard to generally put one brand ahead of another. Both brands have reputable careers in horology and have risen to global fame, but Richard Mille’s bold aesthetic details have positioned It among the most important brands in the world that are sought after by elite members of society. This is not the case with Franck Muller watches. 

Richard Mille’s high reputation among the rich is renowned, so much so that the term “Billionaire’s Handshake” has been attributed to those who wear Richard Mille’s timepieces. In addition to impressive design, engineering, and high-tech innovation, Richard Mille’s marketing strategy is pure genius. The brand produces less than 5,000 watches per year, making Its timepieces highly exclusive, which soars its reputation because more elites continue to crave it. 

Franck Muller on the other hand has been dubbed the “Master of Complications” in the watch world. A name that reflects confidence in the intricacy and ultra-complicated designs of the brand’s watches. He rose to fame when he produced the world’s most complicated wristwatch called the Aeternitas Mega ( a timepiece that houses 36 complications and was manufactured from a total of 1,483 components) but doesn’t use extreme luxury pricing like Richard Mille.

While Franck Muller’s appeal remains strong among watch enthusiasts, Its reputation has also faded a bit from the mainstream watch-buying segments. Wearing a Richard Mille timepiece today says things to other people about you in a way that no other watch brand can. Typically it indicates that you’re among the first class in society who is doing very well financially and that you have a level of good taste for luxurious items.

More recently, it also shows that you have connections with dealers and though Franck Muller is a rockstar in the world of Swiss unless you hang out with some hardcore watch enthusiast who knows about Franck Muller, his watches simply won’t have the same effect Mille’s watches have on people.

Movements

Franck Muller watches mostly use the modified ETA movements but they are exemptions. The Casablanca 5850 Chronograph for instance is powered by the manual-winding FM cal. 1870, which is based upon the Lemania cal. 1872  (Lemania was a historic Swiss ebauche movement manufacturer famed for their chronograph movements.

It is now called Manufacture Breguet) and some men’s watches come with mechanical in-house movements that are all tried and tested, making them strong performers. Richard Mille in opposition uses in-house movements for all Its timepieces. This means the movements are made by the brand themselves and everyone knows that in-house movements are generally of higher quality than any of the mass-produced movements that are being used by other watch brands.

Prices

Richard Mille’s watches are extremely popular and are also considered to be one of the most expensive timepieces in the world. As of the time of writing this article, prices for Richard Mille watches range from $80,000 to $2 million. The cheapest is the new RM 005, which costs around $80,000. The reason Richard Mille’s watches are so expensive is partly due to the manufacturing process being complex and very time-consuming in addition to the image and reputation that the brand’s watches bear. 

Unlike Richard Mille, Franck Muller’s catalog is immense, resulting in a wide range of prices. A simple women’s watch can be gotten for about 3,000 USD, while modest men’s models cost between 5,700 and 7,500 USD. Watches with diamonds or other precious stones, and those that feature a tourbillon in addition to a perpetual calendar cost around 70,000 USD upwards.

The more complicated the watch, the higher the price but they are relatively affordable, especially when you compare them to Richard Mille’s watches. When it comes to Franck Muller’s watches, only the highly complicated masterpieces like the Aeternitas Mega 4 typically demand some more cash beyond the two million USD mark.

Is Richard Mille and Franck Muller the same

No, but the two brands have a lot in common. Both Richard Mille and Franck Muller show off high-tech watches with amazing designs and movements that are typically out of this world. The unique tonneau-shaped watches with large numbers and indices were first introduced by Franck Muller and were a noble representation of the brand’s central theme and design.

Many of Muller’s first watches were quite unconventional, looked fun and quirky, and sometimes large and over the top but always fashionable and beautifully finished. Unfortunately, (as with all fashionable items), a new wave of fashion shadowed Franck Muller’s fame as similar timepieces with more technical twists and aesthetical appeal hit the watch market.

Guess the major competitor? Richard Mille! With his profound technical experience and progressive mindset, Richard Mille quickly gained global acceptance with the creation of revolutionary timepieces, high-profile endorsements, and marketing ingenuity.

Resale Value And Warranty

To people with an eye on investment, good resale value is critical in purchasing any watch especially when it’s a watch that costs tens of thousands of dollars. It’s very rational to ensure that your purchase will appreciate over time.

The good news is it is safe to purchase a Franck Muller or Richard Mille timepiece because both brands have a strong reputation for quality and craftsmanship. Both brands make high-end jewelry with some of the finest materials available, including gold, diamond, titanium, and platinum. 

Richard Mille watches hold their value well but not fantastically because they are rare and limited and unless you are in the inner circle of the billionaires club, selling them off when you’re ready might take a lot of time especially since the target market is niche.

The brand also offers a 3-year warranty plus an extra two years of free servicing which depends on if the watch owner had his watch adequately serviced within the first three-year warranty. Meanwhile, Franck Muller provides every owner with free services for their watch within the first two years of purchase.

Franck Muller Vanguard Vs Richard Mille

Though Franck Muller’s success has slowed a bit, all Its watches have remained over the top and complicated, especially the watches found in the Vanguard collection. The Franck Muller’s Vanguard collection sails in a sporty direction just like Richard Mille’s watches and showcases some of the Brand’s most extraordinary and groundbreaking timepieces. An obvious similarity shared by both watches is the resin-filled channel along the sides of the case and the tonneau shape. 

The finishing on the Vanguard timepieces is done to the highest possible standard and exudes sporting elegance but comes in a flexible design that can easily span the gulf between the beachside resort, boardroom, and anywhere in-between but Richard Mille’s watch concept of combining the worlds of cars, aeronautics and sailing with the high-tech aspects of innovation, resistant materials and accuracy to produce stunning timepieces makes us put the best collection of Franck Muller (namely the Vanguard), head to head with Richard Mille. 

When it comes to prices, you’ll see that prices for Franck Muller Vanguard timepieces cover a relatively wide spectrum. Starting prices begin from around 3,800 USD to over 100,000 USD depending on the material, watch movement, and added jewels and this makes it relatively affordable when compared to Richard Mille’s watches.

Let’s take a look at watches from the Vanguard collection and Richard Mille that both give a decent clear look at the in-house crafted mechanics within and put the tourbillon beautifully on display for a result that is both stunning and contemporary.

Vanguard V 45 Gravity

Wearing a Franck Muller watch is a statement in itself so fall in line if you’re tired of having your watch disappear with your outfit. Franck Muller makes two editions of the ref. V 45 T GR CS SQT BR (NR), both of which are stunning and recognizable, thanks to their intricately skeletonized dials that offer a beautiful view of the bold manual caliber and its tourbillon including the delicate finishing.

The tourbillon dominates the dial’s lower half, while the upper half features a set of conventional hour and minute hands. Among other features, what stands out is the tourbillon’s cage. Depending on the model, the cage comes coated with either red or blue lacquer.

Other profound accents worthy of being mentioned are the hands, minute scale, and of course the “Frank Muller” and “Gravity” that have been inscribed at 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively. The two editions released in the ref. V 45 T GR CS SQT BR (NR), is water-resistant to 30 m (3 bar, 98 ft).

Concerning the case, the Gravity comes with a sapphire crystal case back that allows the wearer to observe the movement from both above and below. Its titanium case has a matte black PVD coating. A black alligator leather strap with matching red or blue decorative stitching keeps this timepiece securely on the wrist. The starting price for this model is around 95,000 USD on Chrono24.

ProsCons
Modern and futuristic design that stands out even to the untrained eyeDifficult to service
Healthy wrist presence
Nice sized thickness
Wears quite comfortably
Sleek, sporty, rugged style in a subtle black and yellow colorway
Affordable luxury watch
Comes with a warranty of up to two years

Richard Mille

RM 002 and RM 003

Released in 2001, the RM 002 comes with a distinctive barrel-shaped case that measures 45 x 38.5 mm and can be obtained in rose or white gold. Just like the Vanguard V 45 Gravity, a sapphire crystal offers an unimpeded view of the skeletonized movement below. The manual in-house caliber features a power reserve indicator at 10:30 and a torque indicator between 1 and 2 o’clock. A tourbillon spins at 6 o’clock to the left of a function selector while the dome-shaped sapphire crystal functions as a dial.

This display lets you know what mode the crown is in. “W” stands for winding, “H” represents hands (), and “N” for neutral indicates that the watch is ticking normally. When the display mode reads H, you can set the time yourself. You can also switch between modes using a button integrated into the crown.

The RM 002 comes in two versions namely the RM 002-V1 and the RM 002-V2. The former uses a plate made of grade 5 titanium while the latter has a plate made of carbon. Everything else is pretty much the same so the only difference is the material used for the base plate. RM 003 builds on the functionality of RM 002 by adding a second-time zone and is a great option for frequent fliers.

It does this via a sapphire crystal disc with printed black numerals. The numbers scroll over a small white insert at 3 o’clock, thus showing the time in another part of the world. You can reset this display using a button on the left side of the case at 9 o’clock.

ProsCons
Beautiful and interactive visual watchExpensive
Complex timepiece designed for everyday use and any situationUnavailable
The level of finishing and use of space is undoubtedly impressive
Extremely durable and lightweight

Frequently Asked Questions

Why Are Richard Mille Watches So Expensive?

Richard Mille Watches are expensive because of the complexity of design, innovative technology, and the image and reputation that they bear.

Are Franck Muller watches water-resistant?

Yes. Franck Muller watches are water-resistant up to 30 meters (3 bar, 98 ft). This might seem a bit less than typical for a sports watch but all their watches are of high quality.

15 best chronograph watches under $5k

Chronograph watches were first applied in the recording of elapsed time during horse races and since then they have established themselves as a versatile addition to the field of timekeeping. It all began two hundred years ago when French watchmaker, Louis Moinet, invented the first modern Chronograph for astronomers to track the movements of stars and planets.

His amazing tech invention was accurate to within 1/60th of a second and was celebrated until 1821 when Louis XVIII commissioned Nicolas Rieussec to invent a device for timing his horses. Nicolas’s chronograph was accurate to within a fifth of a second and became the first-ever commercialised chronograph. Think of a chronograph watch as a stopwatch that can be ‘activated’ and stopped at your whim.

What Makes a Chronograph Watch?

Not just any timepiece can call itself a chronograph. Wondering what’s special about chronograph watches?? Well, apart from chronograph watches being one of the most well-crafted mechanical fineries used in calculating precise timing, they are compact and downright fantastic. Many chronograph watches can display the time and often the date as well, can calculate your average speed, measure your heart rate, and keep track of two events at the same time.

A lot of them come with two or three subdials that display the hours, minutes, and seconds. So whether you are on a search for an iconic watch or you’re just a collector looking for your first watch, a chronograph watch is a must-have for any watch collector – thanks to its unique features and details!

Here Are A Few Things You Should Know Before Purchasing A Chronograph Watch.

Gather here if you’re a sports fiend with an interest in horology and about to purchase your first chronograph watch. Gone are the days when getting a watch simply because it is ‘cool looking’ was enough. Especially when it’s a tool watch, such as a chronograph timepiece, When it comes to purchasing chronograph watches, there’s always the right one out there for you but take into consideration the following;

Mechanical Or Quartz?

Mechanical watches are designed to run without a battery, while quartz watches require a battery. Often mechanical watches have more interesting mechanisms on their chronograph features and can go on for many years without needing a change but Quartz watches are more affordable.

Legibility

A chronograph watch with an easy-to-read display of elapsed time will offer more value and should be sought for – especially since most manufacturers ditch this feature for the sake of stylish designs.

Functionality

Beyond the aesthetic appeal, chronographs are known for offering many practical uses. With your chronograph, you could tell the distance to certain events, determine the shortest commuting route, track cooking times, parking meters, and of course time races. Tachymeters are usually featured on chronograph watches and are used to measure the speed traveled over a fixed period.

A tachymeter scale function is either fixed to the case or comes as part of the rotating bezel and the most important aspect of it is its accuracy. inspired by the thrill and glamour of motorsport. So if you’re an avid racer, you can use the tachymeter function on your chronograph to measure vehicle speeds accurately, which is considered the most accurate device for measuring time.

And as we creep into the end of the year, we thought it would be only right to offer you 15 of the best chronographs under $5k – enjoy!

In no particular order;

1. Longines Spirit Pioneer Titanium Chronograph

Longines Spirit Pioneer Titanium Chronograph

The Longlines Spirit collection takes inspiration from its legacy in aviation and this new ultra-bright and ultra-light elegant piece pays homage to the glory days of aviation while including present-day aesthetics.

As with all other watches in the Spirit collection, this new Longines Spirit Pioneer Edition is powered by a high-quality automatic caliber produced by ETA exclusively for Longines, but unlike other existing Spirit chronograph watches, this lightweight piece offers a sporty take and comes in a black synthetic strap in addition to neon green stitches that corresponds with the visible matt black dial’s hands and Arabic numerals.

A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, with several layers of anti-reflective coating on both sides, gives it a luxurious aesthetic and enhances its modern personality. The L688.4 movement, a COSC-certified chronometer, is compact and refined — a self-winding mechanical marvel with an impressive power reserve of 66 hours and 28,800 vibrations per hour. All are contained in this 42mm stainless-steel case, which is an elegant reinvention of the legendary watch.

Quick Facts

  • Reference: L3.829.1.53.2 – L38291532
  • Caliber: L688.4
  • Movement: Automatic
  • Dimension: 42.00 mm
  • Lug distance: 22 mm
  • Thickness: 16.50 mm
  • Dial Color: Black matt
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Power reserve: 66-hour power reserve
  • Weight: 92.8 g
  • Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
  • Strap type: Calf leather
  • Screw Down Crown: Yes
  • Price: $3,900.00

2. Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto Chrono

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto Chrono

Powered by the H-31 automatic movement, the Chrono-Matic 50 features a rather unique (and kind of cool) sporty stance with an ultra-elegant reverse panda dial vibe. The vintage-tinged timepiece is a rugged modern reworking of a 1968 signature timepiece that offers a sporty but classic look.

The bold red color accents scream legibility, while the comfortable 100m water resistance makes it perfect for the demands of the sportiest of models, relatively spartan for a chronograph watch. Instead of three subdials, there are two that blend seamlessly with the design. This watch relies on the H-31 powerful automatic chronograph movement that offers an impressive 60-hour power reserve.

Quick Facts

  • Reference: H51616731
  • Caliber: H-31
  • Collection: American Classic
  • Movement: Automatic
  • Case size: 48.5mm x 51.50mm
  • Dial Color: Black
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Lug width: 22mm
  • Power reserve: 60-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
  • Strap type: Calf leather
  • Screw Down Crown: Yes
  • Price: $2,245 for the bracelet, $2,045 for leather

3. Seiko Presage SRQ023

Seiko Presage SRQ023

Seiko is a brand known to blend technology with superior craftsmanship and design. So if you need an elegant chronograph watch but aren’t ready to stretch your budget to the Speedmaster level, this one comes in highly recommended.

The watch is powered by a Seiko Caliber 8R48, a hand-wound movement with a 45-hour power reserve and a 28,800 vph. The heart of this timepiece comes encased in a 42 mm stainless steel case with a 100 meter water depth rating, which means you can conveniently swim with it but it’s not suitable for diving. The dial is simple, legible, and protected by a sapphire crystal.

Quick Facts

  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Chronograph, and Date
  • Caliber: 8R48
  • Movement: Automatic.
  • Case size: 42mm x 49.5mm
  • Dial Color: White
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Power reserve: 45-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
  • Price: $2,400

4. Longines Avigation BigEye

Longines Avigation BigEye

An extremely elegant Swiss-made Longines chronograph wristwatch for gents that has all the attributes of luxury sports with a gorgeous 27-jewel movement. The supple leather band enhances a vintage-inspired look that fits well on the wrist. Speaking of the dial, it’s legible and features a tachymeter scale on the bezel. Inside is a self-winding mechanical movement that beats at 28,800 vph, with a power reserve of approximately 66 hours.

With the Longlines pattern design on the oscillating bridge, there’s no mistaking who powered this reliable movement. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with several layers of anti-reflective coating on the underside lends this timepiece an additional high visual quality. This new model also comes with a 5-year warranty

Quick Facts

  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Chronograph, and Date
  • Caliber: L688
  • Movement: Automatic.
  • Case size: 42mm x 49.5mm
  • Dimension: Ø 41.00 mm
  • Thickness: 14.50 mm
  • Dial Color: Petroleum
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Material: Titanium
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Power reserve: 54-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance : 3 bar (30m)
  • Price: US$2,825.

5. TISSOT HERITAGE 1973

TISSOT HERITAGE 1973

Possibly the best value-for-money chronograph sports watch on the market, the Tissot Heritage 1973 bears the emblematic design of the 1970s and has been praised by reviewers universally for its elegant finishing and low price point.

This elegant sports watch comes in a 43mm stainless steel case with domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which means it does wear very comfortably and follows the distinguished Heritage’s sleek, tonneau shape with a very legible chronograph dial that looks great on the bracelet.

It’s a bit big at 125g so if you don’t mind a bit of extra thickness and prefer a watch with a bit of heft, this won’t be a bad option. Inside, the ETA A05.H31, a modified Valjoux 775 provides this timepiece with an extended 60-hour power reserve.

Quick Facts

  • Brand: Tissot
  • Model: Heritage
  • Functions: Central 60-second chronograph hand, 30 minutes and 60 seconds counters, 12 hours.
  • Caliber: A05.H31
  • Movement: Swiss Tissot automatic
  • Case size: 43mm
  • Dial Color: Silver
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Case shape: Tonneau (shape)
  • Strap color: Brown
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Power reserve: 60-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
  • Price: US$2,100

6. KHAKI AVIATION PIONEER MECHANICAL CHRONO

KHAKI AVIATION PIONEER MECHANICAL CHRONO

Distinctive, daring, and definitely an attention-grabber, the Khaki aviation pioneer mechanical Chrono alludes to a vintage military aviation design and is inspired by the iconic models which were created for the British Royal Air Force in the 1970s. This elegant timepiece is powered by the incredible H-51-Si is a mechanical chronograph movement with 60 hours of power reserve. It also features a balance spring made from an anti-magnetic silicon material.

Quick Facts

  • Reference: H76409530
  • Functions: Chronograph and Date
  • Caliber: H-51-Si mechanical chronograph movement
  • Movement: Hand-winding.
  • Case size: 40mm
  • Dial Color: Black
  • Strap: Brown calf leather
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Power reserve: 60-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
  • Price: $2,045.

7. TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16

Tag Heuer, the trailblazer watch brand in horological content, quality, and prestige presents this sleek, and elegant timepiece in a 41mm case that is nicely shaped, with sharp lugs and conspicuous pump pushers. Although the price is getting quite thin in the < $5,000 category on Tag Heuer’s website, I couldn’t resist the urge to include it here because of its reliable functionality and special features – like the tachymeter scale, inspired by the thrill and glamour of motorsport, which makes it more accurate than most.

It is known that TAG Heuer’s most famous collection is the Carrera and the execution of several components of this timepiece proves very impressive and does not disappoint with a design that hearkens back to the collection’s earliest racing roots. The Carrera Calibre 16 is water-resistant to 100 meters.

Quick Facts

  • Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph
  • Functions: Chronograph and Date
  • Caliber: Calibre 16
  • Movement: Automatic.
  • Case size: 41mm
  • Dial color Black
  • Strap: Black leather strap with contrasting red stitching.
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Power reserve: 42-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
  • Price: $5,000

8. Oris Divers Sixty Five Chronograph

Oris Divers Sixty Five Chronograph

If you’re searching for a chronograph watch that radiates a sporty, modern charm then the Oris Divers Sixty Five With a passion for precision mechanics, Oris powers this chronograph watch with automatic movement.

The layout is just crisp and easy to read, while the trim on the bezel is well finished with a gilt application over a black dial, the elegant steel elements in addition to the brown vintage leather strap and blue stitches exude a stylish harmony that commands attention from every watch collector. This watch also sports a black dial and offers water resistance up to 100 meters.

Quick Facts

  • Brand: Oris
  • Model: Divers Sixty Five
  • Reference: 01 771 7744 4354-07 5 21 45
  • Functions: Chronograph and Date
  • Caliber: Oris 771 (Sellita SW510 base)
  • Movement: Automatic.
  • Dimensions: 43mm
  • Dial Color: Black
  • Case Material: Stainless steel/bronze bezel
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Power reserve: 48-hour power reserve
  • Strap/bracelet: Leather or rivet bracelet
  • Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
  • Price: $4,000 (strap), $4,250 (bracelet)

9. Farer Chrono-Classic Swann

Farer Chrono-Classic Swann

Farer Chrono-Classic Swann bridges a sporty stance with vibes from the 60s in this vintage classic timepiece. The magenta sunray dials with duck egg blue markings pay tribute to Olympic champion, Sidney Swann who took gold in Men’s Eight Rowing in 1912, and meshes well with the smaller vintage-style proportions that it comes with, giving it an overall plush look.

A sapphire domed crystal means it is less prone to damage, making it an excellent choice for outdoor enthusiasts. The classic style Chrono has soft-edged button pushers, perfect dimensions, and is fitted with Swiss-made Dubois Dépraz DD2022 caliber.

Quick facts

  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph.
  • Caliber: Dubois Dépraz DD2022
  • Movement: Automatic, 59 Jewels
  • Case size: 39mm x 12mm
  • Dial: Magenta sunray adonized dial
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Power reserve: 43-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
  • Strap: Blue (Meredith/Jackson) or purple (Swann) leather with stainless steel buckle fastening.
  • Price: $2,598.29USD

10. Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture

Inspired by 1930’s Flyback Chronographs, The Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture came with a desire to go beyond a regular chronograph configuration. It was first released at Baselworld in 2017, and is equipped with an FC-760 automatic manufacture movement, an in-house movement with 32 jewels.

The 42 mm stainless steel case is comfortable on the wrist Inspired by the Flyback chronographs of 1930, it features a time-counting mechanism that can be stopped and reset at the push of a button. Now available in two new colorways (blue and chocolate). This modern interpretation of the classic 1930s chronographs features a time-counting mechanism that can be stopped and reset at the push of a button.

Quick facts

  • Reference: FC-760V4H4
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph.
  • Caliber: FC-760
  • Movement: Automatic, 32 Jewels
  • Case size: 42 mm
  • Dial: Silver
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Power reserve: 38-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance: 5 bar (50m)
  • Strap: Alligator.
  • Price: $4,295 (Blue) and $4,595 (Chocolate)

11. Massena LAB Uni-Racer

The Massena LAB Uni-Racer, a faithful replica of the Universal Geneve Big Eye is an attestation to Massena LAB’s art of defying the rules when it comes to bringing back the form and function of the chronographs.

The limited Massena Lab Uni-Racer, now available in three new colorways, is a modern illustration of the cult classic, but with a “Big Eye” thanks to its oversized 30-minute sub-counter and its smaller seconds sub-dial. The case measures 39mm in diameter and 13mm in height, contrary to the original model’s 36mm case.

An outstanding element of vintage Universal Genève watches has always been their bold hands, and the Uni-Compax is no exception to the rule, with modern dauphine hands for the hours and minutes, and straight luminous batons for the sub-counters.

Inside a solid steel case back, the limited Massena Lab Uni-Racer is powered by the Uni-Racer ​UR-001. A well-known, and reliable Sellita SW-510 and movement, that offers a comfortable 58h power reserve and runs at a 4 Hz frequency.

Quick facts

  • Functions: Hours, minutes, with small seconds, Chronograph with central minute counter and 30-minute subdial
  • Caliber: SW510 M
  • Movement: Hand Wound, 23 jewels, 28,800 vibrations/hours
  • Case size: 39mm x 13mm
  • Dial: Black Dial with silver register
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Dome acrylic crystal
  • Power reserve: 58-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance: 5 bar (50m)
  • Bracelet: Dove grey strap with signature stainless steel tang buckle.
  • Price: $3,495USD

12. MIDO Multifort Patrimony Chronograph

MIDO Multifort Patrimony Chronograph

Together with Tissot, Hamilton, or Rado, Mido is one of the brands that play on the watch world’s accessible luxury timepieces. This exceptional watch is a tribute to the MIDO’s Multichrono. An iconic chronograph from the 1930s.

To meet contemporary standards, it is offered in a 42mm diameter case, which means it will sit comfortably on most wrists, with tapered lugs, a very thin bezel, and a sapphire crystal on top to present the retro looks of a vintage watch.

The sunray-brushed blue dial plays beautifully with light and is all about legibility. Equipped with a tachymeter scale, two counters add to offer it a more balanced and uncluttered look. At the heart of this chronograph, the Caliber 60 automatic movement offers a power reserve of up to 60 hours.

Quick facts

  • Item: Mido Men’s Watch
  • Model: M040.427.36.042.00
  • Collection: Multifort Patrimony
  • Case: Rose Gold PVD Stainless Steel
  • Caliber: Mido Caliber 60 (Base ETA A05.H31)
  • Movement: Automatic
  • Case size: 42 mm
  • Dial: Blue
  • Dial Features: Date Display / Luminous Hands / Chronograph / Tachymeter / Arabic Numerals
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
  • Power reserve: 60-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance: 5 bar (50m)
  • Bracelet: Brown Leather Strap
  • Price: $2,200USD

13. Sinn 103 St Pilot Chronograph Automatic Watch – Black Dial – Solid Bracelet

Sinn 103 St Pilot Chronograph Automatic Watch - Black Dial - Solid Bracelet

Sinn watches are renowned for outstanding technical refinements such as AR Dehumidifying and Tegiment technology, lubricant-free escapement, and even titanium cases. 103 St is distinctively Sinn with a classical and simple design that bears roots dating back to Sinn’s early history of pilot chronograph making.

This elegant timepiece features a matte black dial, three subdials for continuous seconds, a date/day display, and luminous coated hands and indices making legibility in the dark a walk in the park! Oh – and that 41mm sizing is a real sweet spot that is all about endurance and functionality.

Inside, the reliable Concepto C99001 self-winding movement, which is anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309, powers this watch. With a chronograph, pilot’s bezel with a luminous key mark, day-date indicator, and low-pressure resistance to 200 meters, this is a watch built to be a versatile and trustworthy daily wearer.

Quick facts

  • Functions: Hours, minutes, with small seconds, Chronograph with central minute counter and 30-minute subdial
  • Caliber: Concepto C99001 (German)
  • Movement: Automatic
  • Case size: 41mm
  • Watch Thickness: 15.5mm
  • Dial: Matte black dial protected by shock-resistant acrylic glass.
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Acrylic Crysta
  • Power reserve: 58-hour power reserve
  • Weight: 74 grams
  • Water Resistance: 20 bar (200m)
  • Bracelet: Stainless steel
  • Price: $2,486.05USD

14. Longines Master Calendar Chronograph

Longines Master Calendar Chronograph

At $3,325, Longines Master Calendar Chronograph represents one of the greatest values in watchmaking. First launched in 2005 and inspired by Longines’ desire to continue producing long-lasting iconic luxury timepieces, the Longines Master Collection of chronographs impeccably encapsulates the outstanding engineering and classic aesthetics for which Longlines is renowned.

For starters, the blue steel hands are without many reflective surfaces on the dial, which are designed to mimic the look of a guilloche-engraved dial and offer a high amount of legibility. Inside, the Swiss-made ETA Valjoux 775, modified visually and technically with the inclusion of a column-wheel transmission system to become Longines caliber L687, provides a 48-hour power reserve.

This timepiece might not be a sports watch at only 30 meters of water resistance, but it is designed with top-notch materials and is durable enough to serve as a daily-wear timepiece.

Quick facts

  • Brand: Longines
  • Model: Master Collection reference L2.673.4.78.3
  • Functions: Chronograph, Month, Date, Day, GMT, Moonphase, Hours, Minutes, Second
  • Caliber: Longines Calibre L678m
  • Movement: Automatic
  • Case size: 40mm
  • Watch Thickness: 14mm
  • Dial Color: Blue
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Crystal: Scratch Resistant Sapphire Crystal
  • Power reserve: 48-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance : 3 bar (30m)
  • Price: $3,325

15. Kurono Chronograph 2

Kurono Chronograph 2

Last but not least, we have this cool, vintage-inspired chronograph, launched in 2021 by Kurono, the accessible sub-brand of watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. The Chronograph 2 was a smash hit when it dropped, selling out in less than five minutes. Kurono’s 38mm column-wheel chronograph timepiece effortlessly combines the historic appeal of a true icon with the sophistication of a contemporary timepiece.

The dial features contrasting layers of gloss black with a base of dark brown accentuated with a copper tachymeter and silver chronograph scale, creating a unique personality that makes it stand out from the crowd.

Inside, a solid Seiko caliber NE86 automatic movement keeps the price accessible so if you’re in the market for an exquisite chronograph but aren’t willing to stretch your budget to the Speedmaster level, Kurono has delivered a terrific alternative that is more than just a piece of mechanical finery for precise timing.

Quick facts

  • Brand: Kurono
  • Model: Chronograph 2
  • Functions: Chronograph, date window
  • Caliber: Seiko caliber NE86
  • Movement: Automatic
  • Case size: 38mm
  • Watch Thickness: 13.9mm
  • Dial Color: Black
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
  • Power reserve: 45-hour power reserve
  • Water Resistance : 3 bar (30m)
  • Price: $3,993USD
Patek Phillipe vs Breguet

They are people who simply appreciate fine watches, and then they are horology aficionados. The former would be thrilled to find a low-budget watch that is simple yet recognizable, but the latter are the ones who have a sophisticated appreciation for the craft, history, and horology that goes into the production of different watch brands.

It is these horology aficionados that know that a Patek Phillippe or Breguet on the wrist of a man goes beyond a status symbol to reflecting his appreciation for incredible quality and watch mechanics.

With Patek Philippe bringing on exceptionally well-crafted, and insanely complex watches, more and more debates on the watch internet universe have arisen comparing the brand to Breguet – the only timepiece on planet Earth that echoes the classic British and French pocket watches of the 18th century. Can there be the last brand standing at the end of this battle? Let’s find out!

Patek Phillippe vs Breguet: who’s the best?

Patek Philippe has become one of the world’s most well-established luxury brands, which is widely recognized as the luxury watch par excellence and at the same time offers collectors a great form of investment. Just as their famous tagline says, you never truly own a Patek Philippe, you just take care of it for the next generation.

Breguet on the other hand is famous for inventing the tourbillon around the end of the 18th century and was the first watch brand to feature the guilloché technique on its dials. Its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet is widely regarded as the best watchmaker of his time. 

If you are seeking which is the better option between them, we can’t make that decision for you. However, you will find the highlights of each brand alongside the pros and cons spelled out here. The truth is both Patek Philippe and Breguet compete in the same luxury segment, but they do not perform in the same way. 

They are in many respects complementary and that’s something you can notice once you compare watch brands like Blancpain vs Breguet vs Piaget timepieces. All three are among the oldest surviving watchmaking brands that started as manufacturers of watch movements even though their style is comparable. This article aims to provide an in-depth review of these top-of-the-line watch brands and we have simplified the information needed by comparing these brands in different sections.

Breguet

Breguet Lucerne

No true watch enthusiast can mention Breguet without evoking the Tourbillon, the Breguet overcoil, or the first watch with keyless winding immediately. Incontestably one of the oldest surviving watchmaking brands, Breguet has the richest watch brand in history.

It was founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet and is credited with pioneering numerous watchmaking technologies such as the tourbillon (invented by Abraham Breguet in 1801), the world’s first self-winding watch called the Perpétuelle (invented in 1780), and the world’s first wristwatch, invented in 1810.

Abraham-Louis Breguet quickly rose to fame as his inventions gained recognition and became the top choice of European nobility while enriching the watchmaking world with revolutionary inventions such as the tourbillon, the Breguet overcoil, and the first functioning shock-protection system, the pare-chute.

Beyond these iconic innovations, Breguet also impacted the watch world by creating Breguet hands and numerals. After the death of Abraham Breguet in 1823, his son, Antoine-Louis Breguet took over the fast-growing company and maintained top-quality standards, so much so that a Breguet watch became a sure sign of wealth and success.

Breguet’s current catalog comprises a wide range of timepieces with classic designs. They include the Classique and Classique Complications collections (modeled after the company’s historical timepieces), the Tradition collection, the Reine de Naples and Héritage collections, and the Marine and Type XXI collections.

ProsCons
•Flawless craftsmanship with highly detailed and extremely well-made timepieces that come at a reasonable price point when compared to its competitors.•Not a great investment piece at the moment.
•Over 240 years of tradition•The high price point for entry-level watches
•Precise in-house calibers
•A mind-blowing amount of complications  such as a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, or minute repeater
•Refined and timeless style and design
•Highly operational movements that showcase an exceptional standard of horological art

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Store

Patek Philippe, the ‘Rolls Royce Boat Tail’ of all watch brands was founded 183 years ago.

Just like Breguet, it is an old watch manufacturer with an uninterrupted watchmaking history. It was named after Antoni Patek and Adrien Philippe who jointly founded it in Geneva and has remained one of the few independent Genevan watch manufacturers that are still family-owned. 

From iconic watches with tourbillons to some of the most complicated mechanical watches in the world, Phillipe is widely known to be one of the most prestigious watch manufacturers in the world that builds nearly every component for their watches themselves. 

Considered the ‘crowning piece of any watch collection’, Patek Philippe has a legacy for crafting some of the world’s most exquisite timepieces out of precious metals like gold or platinum. Although stainless steel editions exist, they are very few in Patek’s catalogs, making them a fantastic investment option. Its iconic collections include the classic Calatrava, the sporty Aquanaut and Nautilus lines, the feminine Twenty-4, and the outstanding complications and grand complications.

ProsCons
•Prestigious luxury timepieces•Long waiting lists and wait times. (The Patek Philippe Nautilus for instance has a waitlist of about 30 years!)•Great investments option•Expensive•Modern in-house calibers that ensure high precision•Inventor of many important complications•Longevity and timeless designs•Expert craftsmanship•Supreme and durable materials

Patek Philippe vs Breguet

Movements & Quality

Both Patek Phillippe and Breguet value quality and precision. They craft their watches with the highest quality materials which are designed to last a lifetime. Breguet uses in-house made High-frequency mechanical movements and it is not shocking to know that it was among the first watch brands to outfit movements with anti-magnetic silicon components since it has been making watches since 1839 with utmost care and precision. 

Patek Philippe began manufacturing self-winding movements in the year 1953 and since then has developed a number of high-performance mechanisms that form the basis of its beloved complicated movements. If you compare Patek Philippe vs Breguet’s movement finishing, Patek is in another league completely and would outpace Breguet, but not Breguet’s Tradition line.

Style & Design

Breguet timepieces all bear the pedigree of original design with a unique styling that stays ahead of Patek Philippe when it comes to the case, dial (especially guilloche), and hand finishing. But when it comes to dressing watches, Patek Phillippe’s Calatrava is the most iconic high-end dress watch.

 Both brands offer everything from timeless calendar watches with elaborate dials, to incredibly functional and visually pleasing timepieces that feature diamonds and fine engravings. Patek’s style approaches that of a classic luxury sports watch (such as the Patek Philippe Aquanaut) while the Breguet Classique and marine watch collections epitomize the watchmaking principles of precision, clarity, and elegance but not so much of flashy luxurious style. All in all both Brand’s timepieces feature dazzling aesthetics that will outlive several lifetimes.

Price

Patek Philippe crafts some of the world’s most prestigious and expensive timepieces but Breguet’s watches offer a better value when it comes down to horological content. The price point of a Patek Philippe watch compared to a Breguet watch is probably the largest difference that sets these two brands apart. 

In December 2020 eight of the world’s top ten most expensive watches ever sold at auctions were Patek Philippe watches. The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime (Ref. 6300A-010) currently holds the title of the most expensive watch/wristwatch ever sold at auction (US$31.19 million/31 million CHF) and models from the Complications and Grand Complications collections have prices ranging from 160,000 USD to several million USD.

 Breguet watches on the hand are highly affordable and have a much lower cost when compared to Patek Phillippe with Breguet’s entry-level watches selling from around $11,500.

Brand Popularity

It’s obvious that Breguet watches portray an exceptional standard of horological art that deserves to be identified and praised but this is not the case as it has become a bit eclipsed in fame by Patek. 

Brand popularity is where Patek Phillippe rules even though Breguet dominates when it comes to heritage and craftsmanship. Patek is a more well-known Swiss Watch brand with a second-to-none reputation for churning out elegant timepieces, but it was upon Breguet’s work that this was achieved.

 From the simple elegance of Calatrava to the iconic Nautilus, Patek Philippe watches are incredibly popular among collectors and have become one of the most desirable watches on the market today. Breguet may be as good as Patek Philippe but the latter has a more well-known brand and reputation. One thing shared by both brands however is that demand for their watches far exceeds the supply.

Accuracy

Even though both Breguet and Patek Philippe do not send their calibers to get a COSC certificate, they do their precision testing themselves by subjecting their watches to in-house inspections. Patek Philippe Seal guarantees an extreme rate accuracy with a tolerance of no more than -3/+2 seconds per day and has its timepieces checked (both the uncased movements and finished watches) in several phases during the manufacturing process. 

Breguet also imposes very strict requirements on the manual finissage of its movements to ensure top-notch accuracy. The Breguet Classique Chronometrie ref. 7727 for instance features a mechanical movement escapement that beats at a rate of 72,000 bph (beating most standard ETA movements that operate at 28,800 bph) ensuring an accuracy of approximately +1/-2 seconds per day.

Warranty

Even though both companies are prestigious watch brands, Patek Philippe and Breguet both seem to be lagging behind other top watch manufacturers like Rolex and Tudor when it comes to warranty. Rolex, Omega, Longines, and Tudor all offer a five-year warranty but Patek Philippe and Breguet both offer a warranty of only two years (24 months) from the original date of purchase.

Whilst the industry-standard warranty is actually two years, many watch companies have gone beyond that and now offer five years of warranty, some eight, and some even longer. Patek Philippe’s warranty even expires if interventions are performed by unauthorized third parties.

Resale value

Resale values for different watch brands are hardly static since it depends on many variables and as a result, it is difficult to predict the future. Breguet might not be as expensive initially, but it does not maintain value nearly as well as Patek Phillippe’s timepieces particularly since it began mass-producing its watches. 

Currently, Rolex and Patek Philippe are the two most notorious brands for holding resale value and according to data, Patek Philippe watches are the 4th best luxury watch to invest in. Not only do they hold their value over time, but their prices also appreciate, making them a perfect investment option. Thus, Patek Philippe’s resale value trumps that of Breguet, whether vintage or modern but this can change in the near future.

Which Has A Better Ranking Patek Philippe or Breguet?

According to a recent report by a brand evaluation agency known as Interbrand which publishes a list of the best Swiss brands in the world, Patek Philippe stands as the third most internationally recognized brand in the Swiss watch business. It also took the 15th position as the best Swiss brand in the world while Breguet’s position was 25.

A Morgan Stanley report in association with Swiss consultancy firm LuxeConsult estimates Patek Philippe’s sales at retail were around CHF 2.03 billion in 2021 making it the 6th most powerful brand in the industry. Breguet lags behind Patek Philippe in this regard too with its brand value being around 1 billion CHF and it is ranked the 18th most powerful Swiss Watch brand.

Comparing A Popular Patek Philippe Watch With A Popular Breguet Watch

Now that we have completed an in-depth comparison of Breguet to Patek Philippe, let us take a look at some models of both companies. 

We wish to reinstate that there is no ‘better’ choice and none of our descriptions is presented in a bid to ‘sell’ one brand over another. It all comes down to your personal preference, as both Patek Philippe and Breguet are pretty similar in terms of quality and prestige.

The only main difference is found back in the name. Patek Philippe is known as a sign of wealth and success, whereas Breguet is often linked to vintage watches

Patek Philippe 5196R  vs Breguet Classique 7147 rose

Patek Philippe 5196R

Coming from the celebrated Calatrava line, Patek Philippe 5196R is recognized as one of the finest symbols of the Patek Philippe style and the very essence of the round wristwatch. One of the major reasons why this watch is so popular is because of its beautiful and elegant look. It epitomizes understated elegance and features an 18kt rose gold case of diameter 37mm and finely encapsulates the wrist with its brown alligator leather strap. 

What makes it stand out is the opaline dial that houses rose gold hands in addition to index hour markers. A close look at it will reveal that the minute markers are carved around the outer rim and a small seconds sub-dial is located above the 6 o’clock position.

Aside from a beautiful vintage look, this watch is powered by the 215 PS caliber and features a manual wind movement that ensures a gliding rotation of the hands with a 44-hour power reserve that ensures accuracy and better performance of the timepiece while increasing the lifespan of its battery at the same time. The price range is from 19,000USD to about 63,990USD.

Breguet Classique 7147 rose

Apart from the different movements and years of production, the Breguet Classique 7147 rose shares a lot of similarities with the Patek Philippe 5196R. It presents this 40mm watch in rose gold with a delicately fluted case band, sapphire-crystal case back and features a white “Grand Feu” enamel dial with Arabic numerals. 

Aside from a stunning aesthetic, it comes with a flawless finishing and a precise in-house caliber of the highest quality. Its offset and stepped-down small seconds sub-dial between 5 and 6 o’clock is also extremely functional and its self-winding movements are exquisitely decorated. It is comfortable on the wrist and the price range for a Breguet Classique 7147 rose is from 15,800USD to about 21,000USD

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196RBreguet Classique 7147 rose
•Brand: Patek Philippe•Brand: Breguet
•Reference number: 5196R•Reference number: 7147BR/29/9WU
•Movement: Manual winding•Movement: Automatic
•Case material: Rose gold•Case Material: Red gold, Rose gold
•Bracelet material: Crocodile skin, Leather•Bracelet material: Crocodile skin, Leather
•Year of production: 2004, 2012•Year of production: 2019, 2021, 2022
•Gender: Men’s watch/Unisex•Gender: Men’s watch/Unisex
•Location: Austria; France; United States of America•Location: Germany; Japan; Switzerland; United Kingdom; United States of America
•Movement: Manual winding•Movement: Automatic self-winding movement
•Movement/Caliber: 215 PS•Movement/Caliber: 502.3 SD
•Case material: Rose gold•Case Material: Red gold, Rose gold
•Case diameter: 37.0 mm•Case dimensions: Diameter: 40.0 mm, Thickness: 5.4mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44mm, Lug width: 20mm.
•Water resistance: 3 ATM (30 meters/100feet)•Water resistance: 3 ATM (30 meters/100feet)
•Crystal: Sapphire crystal•Crystal: Sapphire crystal
•Dial: Grey, Silver•Dial: White
•Bracelet material: Crocodile skin, Leather•Bracelet material: Crocodile skin, Leather
•Bracelet color: Brown•Bracelet color: Brown
•Clasp material: Rose Gold•Clasp material: Rose Gold
•Power reserve: 44 hours•Power reserve: 45 hours
•Warranty: Two years•Warranty: Two years

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Breguet worth buying?

Yes. Breguet is a prestigious watch brand that has been in production since 1775 and many of Breguet’s watches provide tremendous value at an affordable price.

Is Patek Philippe the best watch in the world?

Patek Philippe is undoubtedly one of the world’s best watch manufacturers. It is one of the ‘Big Three’, or the holy trinity of watches (a designation that watch experts gave to the most prevalent luxurious watch brands in the world) in addition to Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin.

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