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How to Identify a Vintage Omega Watch (AVOID These Traps!)

Anne Bensons

February 16, 2023

Time has to pass for a vintage to occur and unlike modern timepieces, vintage watches are practical. Each comes with a unique story and looking deep into a new watch is nothing like looking into a vintage timepiece. For the latter, it seems that it stares back at you, capturing your imagination with wonderful memories of the past.

Collecting one is much more than a hobby. It is a way of paying respect to time because vintage watches offer us an enduring reminder of history. I particularly find a great delight holding in my hands a beautiful thing that was part of the lives of people thirty to forty years back.

With clocks ticking, hours going by, and the future receding, vintage watches are getting more valuable and a brand like Omega with a roster full of highly collectible timepieces (such as Omegas Speedmaster Moon watches) is a premier choice.

Acclaimed for its rich horological heritage, Omega is a watch brand with an untarnished reputation for producing some of the most accurate and expertly crafted watches on the globe, making the brand’s vintage timepiece a highly collectible item.

Since the first Omega watch was released in 1848, millions of others have followed, making the identification of a vintage Omega watch a daunting process for people who aren’t in the field of Horology.

Our Top 3 Picks

Omega

Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph 310.30.42.50.01.001

Stainless Steel
Manual
42mm

Check Offer

Omega

Seamaster Ploprof 1200m Black Dial

Titanium
Automatic
55mm

Check Offer

Omega

Constellation Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 29 mm 131.53.29.20.99.001

Sedna™ gold
Automatic
29mm

Check Offer

What Exactly Is Vintage?

Vintage relates to a distinctive historical item of high quality. The narrative of a vintage watch can differ based on perception. Some people argue that they are watches made between 1935 to 1990, others say it’s any timepiece released before the 1980s or one that is 25 to 30 years old. However, all collectors do agree that a vintage watch comes with a couple of decades; at least two.

Valued for their aesthetic and historical value, vintage timepieces boast designs and machinery different from contemporary watches and are works of art in themselves. Vintage watches from a high-end luxury brand like Omega have proven to be great investments over the years and some models have remained a popular choice among collectors and enthusiasts.

Vintage vs Antique Watches

The words “vintage” and “antique” are sometimes exchangeably used to describe old watches. However, this is incorrect as antique pieces are centennial. This means they include only watches that have lasted for 100 years. The definition of vintage however is more flexible since experts disagree on the precise number of years but any timepiece between 20 and 99 years old would generally pass for a vintage watch.

This doesn’t mean twenty years is the minimum lower cut or official expert consensus in the vintage market for a timepiece to be considered vintage as some antique dealers consider only watches over 40 years old as ‘true vintage’. In summary, antiques are absolute; at least 100 years old, while the term ‘vintage’ is relative.

The Appeal Of The Vintage Watch Market

There’s a sensation that every collector has felt for old watches. Apart from the euphoria that comes from owning a piece of history that very few people would be wearing alongside you, vintage watches are trophies. The aphorism, ‘time is money’ is often said to remind people to value the passing hours but in the vintage market, time is money.

From the 1953 Patek Philippe Gobbi Milan timepiece selling for $8.97m in 2019 to many other vintage watches fetching jaw-dropping sums, aficionados continue to be willing to pay huge figures for the gratification of owning a timepiece with outstanding provenance.

It is said that the old has more character than the new and the market of vintage timepieces connects us with past eras, giving us a peek into the lives of our ancestors. From the thrill of the hunt to the exciting rediscovery of rare stunning pieces, the vintage market continues to capture the imaginations of millions of collectors globally.

The appeal of the vintage market may also be psychological as vintage items carry with them living records of previous generations capable of stirring the hearts of collectors and offering a connection to the outstanding expertise showered into these items by our ancestors.

Consequently, the horological frenzy has led to unprecedented growth in the global merchandise of vintage watches. The hype fueled by the pandemic in 2020 ushered in a fresh wave of enthusiasts and the numbers are not likely to decline anytime soon.

Demands now exceed market supply and vintage markets are on the rise globally with sales projected to hit 29 billion USD in 2025 (an 8 percent increase from 2019) according to a report by McKinsey and The Business of Fashion.

Potential Traps To Be Avoided When Shopping For Vintage Watches

Don’t be fooled. Not all that glitters is gold and the market of vintage watches is complex and intricate with cheap imitations littered everywhere. Is some guy offering a vintage Patek Philippe for $700? Another cool and friendly guy out there offering a vintage Audemars Piguet at a special price of $500 just for you? Hold your horses.

Don’t just buy because of the mouth-watering offers. Set your budget and choose a timepiece that appeals to you. If there’s no impulse, it is pointless purchasing a vintage watch just for the sake of it. Do your research and get all the facts about the watch you intend to purchase. Ask for advice and don’t rely solely on what the seller tells you.

It is difficult navigating through a mind-boggling collection of vintage watches, especially with scammers churning out knock-offs that are cheap imitations, so inspect your desired watch as closely as possible for inconsistencies.

You may want to use a magnifying glass to take a closer look at the dial, strap, movement, crown, case, lugs, and case back to make sure everything is authentic. Buying from the internet is tempting but comes with a lot of risks so be extra careful if you must to avoid being conned.

Keep in mind that even though complete original papers attest to a watch’s authenticity and provenance, not every vintage watch coming with a certificate is genuine. Brands continue to work hard to keep counterfeits out of circulation but fake ones are still out there.

Vintage Omega Watches

Omega remains one of the most respected and recognizable watch brands worldwide. Established in 1848 by Louis Brandt in La Chaux de Fonds, the brand is notable for manufacturing high-precision timepieces and has been the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games 28 times.

From sporty chronographs to professional dive watches, the Omega series are lined with impressive, highly functional, and elegant timepieces. After Astronaut Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface with Omega’s Speedmaster Professional in 1969, the brand earned widespread popularity leading to its watches flooding the market in the 1960s and 1970s.

Since the timepieces were of high quality, they have been preserved in excellent condition and can be gotten on the vintage market. Because of the huge demand for pre-owned Omega watches, they have become a favorite of counterfeiters. Scores of fake vintage Omega watches are produced all around the world each year because of Omega’s status as a notable brand and the high demand by collectors and enthusiasts.

From Presidents to Astronauts, Omega watches are famous for adorning the wrists of famous men, making them very desirable. Several Omega watches have been considered state-of-the-art pieces, but here are some of the most popular models from the brand.

1. Omega Speedmaster Professional

The Omega Speedmaster Professional is one of the most iconic timepieces in the world. Originally designed for motorsports, the manual winding Speedmaster Professional was first introduced in 1957 and enjoys the iconic Moonwatch status having been flight-qualified by NASA in 1965 for all manned space missions.

The legendary chronograph remains one of the timepieces qualified by NASA for spaceflight and represents Omega’s adventurous and innovative spirit. Even though the brand releases special versions of the Speedmaster Professional every year, the case size, crystal, and even the manual caliber still bear resemblance to the original Moonwatch from 1969.

2. Omega Seamaster Ploprof

Omega Seamaster happens to be the longest-running watch line still in production by the brand. Ploprof is a word contracted from “Plongeur Professionnel” denoting “professional diver” in French. The Seamaster Ploprof is undoubtedly one of the world’s most eccentric dive watches that stands out due to its distinguishing angular case (made out of a single block of steel), unique bezel-locking mechanism, and massive crown guard.

Following its release, the watch accrued quite a cult following chiefly due to the extraordinary chronometric performance it offered in the depths of the ocean and its flawless design.

The hermetically sealed construction of the case made it suitable for deep-sea diving while the crown positioned on the left side of the case enabled the wearer to utilize Omega’s unique pusher mechanism without taking the watch off.

All the early Seamaster Ploprof models are water-resistant to a depth of 600 meters (1,969 ft) while the current models are water-resistant to a remarkable depth of 1,200 meters (3,937 ft). The Seamaster Ploprof has remained one of the world’s most idiosyncratic dive watches capable of telling time accurately under the surface of the ocean.

3. Omega Marine

Introduced in 1932, the Omega Marine was the world’s first true diver’s watch intended for commercial use. It featured a Sapphire crystal, a notable rectangular case, and an adjustable clasp with a divers’ extension making it possible for the wearer to adjust the watch to their wrist even underwater.

The iconic watch did not feature a rotating bezel and had its crown hidden in the case at the 12 o’clock position (as can be seen in the photos). The Omega Marine also came with a double case sealed with a cork to protect the delicate inner elements of the timepiece from water.

It was robust, and sturdy and passed numerous stringent laboratory tests such as surviving a simulated depth of 135 meters to the confoundment of developers. The iconic watch remains highly sought after by antique collectors.

4. Omega Constellation

Recognized globally as the symbol of elegance and precision, the Constellation is a historic model beloved for its ultra-precise movements and exquisitely refined case. Launched by Omega in 1952, the collection remains the brand’s first mass-produced chronometer and was loved for its classic look that was unlike anything else.

The watch had a distinctive design with two claws at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions which were purely ornamental but soon became the distinguishing feature of all Constellation models. Though the design has changed significantly over the years, the prominent characteristics of the watch remain.

Typical Constellation features include; Roman numerals marking the dial and bezel, golden stars depicting the timepiece’s accuracy (as can be seen on the lower half of the dial), and a medallion on the case back. The most famous editions are the Constellation Grand Luxe and the Constellation Deluxe, obtainable in gold or platinum and with top models featuring an annual calendar.

How To Identify Vintage Omega Watches

Vintage watches from a brand like Omega are a great investment. They are elegant and incorporate history into any watch collection. For avid watch collectors, finding an authentic vintage timepiece can be exciting and very rewarding. With the demand for vintage Omega watches on the rise, high-quality counterfeit pieces continue to flood the market. Bearing this in mind, here are a few ways to identify a true vintage Omega timepiece.

Serial Number

The serial number on a watch is its unique identifier. The serial number system was constituted to mark the authenticity of individual timepieces and is very helpful in tracing historical and pricing information. It reveals vital information like the model year, servicing information, the particular number of timepieces in the production run, etc.

Like most Swiss manufacturers, Omega uses chronological serial numbers to identify and track the production of its watches. Each Omega watch has a patented serial number consisting of seven or eight digits. Depending on the production year of the watch, the location of the code varies.

For vintage timepieces, the serial number can be found engraved inside the case, while current models have their serial numbers engraved on the back of the watches or one of the lugs. In a move to make counterfeit models more identifiable, Omega has experimented with various placements of its serial numbers over the years so it is important to assess the serial number’s placement, quality, and contents.

Most counterfeit watch manufacturers duplicate serial numbers in an attempt to make vintage watches appear authentic but these numbers often don’t match genuine Omega codes. Genuine Omega serial numbers are laser etched in tiny digits leaving a smooth and seamless feel which is difficult to duplicate.

Additionally, Omega keeps a database of serial numbers in addition to US-based Watch Certification Services, so be sure to check with any to verify the authenticity of the vintage watch taking into cognizance the year of production, placement of serial number, and quality of the engraving before making the purchase.

The Dial and Hands

Swiss brands are meticulous when it comes to watchmaking and Omega is a brand that is recognized globally for quality craftsmanship and high standards visible in all components of aspects of its watches. Wrong dial and print font? Imperfectly aligned Omega logo? Glue residue peeking out of an hour marker? Spelling or engraving mistakes? Anything that looks out of place in a vintage (even slightly) should be taken into consideration.

While a certain degree of wear and tear can be expected, the thorough quality assurance procedures at Omega would not demean the brand to the use of poor quality materials and negligence. The lume of a vintage watch is often discolored to show signs of aging but looking at how clean the engravings are on the dial is a good way to start.

Sometimes a dial might be re-lumed and this doesn’t mean the vintage timepiece is fake, it just means it’s not 100% original anymore and calls for further investigation. Check the patina on the dial and hands to make sure they match but don’t confuse patina with fire or water damage. The patina on vintage watches can lead to a remarkable discoloration of dials and even the metal in some cases but both the dials, hour markers, and hands should age naturally.

Caliber

It costs Omega decades of perfection to gain global recognition. From the NASA flight-certified mechanical movement to the METAS-certified movement, the high-end Swiss timepiece maker is revered for its innovations in the watch world.

In the early days of wristwatch collecting, the target was often on exceptionally complicated movements and this interest can still be observed in many old-school collectors. Even though the focus has changed dramatically when it comes to collecting vintage timepieces and buyers now crave beautiful-faced vintage timepieces, Omega remains well-known for its first-class movements.

Whether antique, vintage, or modern, the finishing and constructions are not easy to replicate. A lot of information is out there so you can easily determine the movement by cross-checking the reference numbers of various watches. The vintage Omega database often has this information.

Aesthetic cues can also help you determine the authenticity as Omega is known for its time-consuming finishing and anything short of impressive is not a characteristic of the Haute Horlogerie brand. Despite counterfeit watchmakers trying to replicate Omega’s watches, the cost of production, finishing, and construction often makes this feat almost impossible and none can be compared to an authentic Omega

Weight

Every timepiece from Omega carries an impressive legacy of high-quality craftsmanship. Because of the premium materials used in genuine models, the weight of an authentic vintage watch should have the hallmarks of a standard and robustly constructed watch.

Watch connoisseurs can often tell the weight difference straight away but if you are a novice in the collection realm, experiment by weighing a couple of counterfeit watches with some genuine ones and you’ll notice a remarkable difference between the two.

Sound

A sound check is a great way to detect a fake vintage watch. Genuine vintage Omega watches will not create ticking sounds as the second hands sweep across the dial. This is because of the high-quality craftsmanship undertaken to create timepieces from a reputable brand.

The intricate gears are all carefully assembled and the soundless motion cannot easily be reproduced by fake watchmakers. You can easily check this out by holding the watch close to your ear and listening for a moment.

Summary

The vintage market is flooded with fake vintage watches and Omega has been targeted because its vintage watches are particularly eye-catching and come with an old-fashioned style. Be alert when buying vintage Omega watches.

If a deal is too good to be true, it probably is. A vintage watch with a worn-out case but a perfect dial is a sign that someone is trying to cover up a couple of imperfections. Common sense can help tremendously when doubts arise.

Advise: Buy your vintage watch from a reputable dealer where returning it if you find any issues would not be a problem. Carry out a detailed background check. Collect vital information on the watch from the Omega’s database, run a cross-reference check against it, and if possible get yourself a professional loupe magnifier. Finally, ask fellow collectors or post photos of it in a watch forum online before sealing the deal.

Jomashop vs. Watchmaxx (Brands, Service, Reliability, & More!)

Anne Bensons

February 16, 2023

Swiss watchmakers have often said they loathe the gray market. They’ve called it the watch industry’s cancer, and it’s easy to see why. Taking as much as 20% of revenue from the overall global watch market (worth $62.5bn as reported by Euromonitor), the gray market is growing massively.

It continues to cause a significant revenue loss to watch brands with high discounts that wreck the conscientious prestige and reputation that the brands have built over the years. This is also reflected in Jean-Claude Biver’s statement to Reuters. The former LVMH president stated that once you’ve broken the illusion of prestige and high prices, it will slowly lead to the demise of luxury goods.

A couple of years back, the gray market was nothing more than a shadow, and then it caused very little irritation to authorized dealers and prestigious watch brands, but not so anymore. If you’re a watch enthusiast, you must have been advised to purchase a gray market watch, and at this point, I want to add that gray market dealers aren’t the bad guys; it’s just that they are unauthorized.

What Is A Gray Market Dealer?

Unlike the black market, the gray market is legitimate. It constitutes dealers outside the authorized dealer network of watch brands that offer authentic products at prices 20% to 30% below the retail price. To buttress this further, a timepiece purchased from Exquisite Timepieces would be a primary market purchase.

In contrast, the same watch purchased in the Jomashop store would be a gray market purchase. The watches purchased from the gray market generally come without factory warranties and have a lower resale value than those purchased from an authorized dealer.

So, gray market dealers include all the watch dealers and boutiques that are not accredited distributors of the watch brand they sell. They are an unauthorized source selling authentic watches that are legally sourced outside the distribution course agreed upon by the brand and authorized dealers.

Where Do Grey Market Dealers Get Their Watches From?

It is difficult to determine how the gray market gets its supply as unauthorized dealers acquire timepieces in various ways. Many gray market dealers are keen on protecting their suppliers’ identities. Still, one speculation is that the watches are obtained from authorized dealers around the globe who are striving to sell off their stock to get a new intake. Another speculation is that the watch brands themselves sell obsolete and unsold timepieces from their inventory directly to the gray market dealers in ways that make traceability very difficult.

Luxury Brands’ Response To The Gray Market Watch Industry

From forfeiting hundreds of millions of dollars to keep stock out of the gray market to cutting down wholesale orders to preserve the patina of exclusivity and rarity, top watch brands have often tried to solve the gray market issues.

Mr von Känel, former CEO of Longines, said the brand was attacking gray market sites by tracking Longlines watches found on the gray market online stores back to the dealers and then penalizing such dealers by delisting them permanently from its list of official retailers.

Others are rebuying gray market inventory. For instance, Richemont (which owns A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, etc.) reckoned that 500 million USD was worth paying to prevent the global gray market from being flooded with its timepieces.

At the same time, Omega, in an attempt to curb the sale of one of its watches in gray market sites, put a tiny 0.5cm engraving on the back of it and claimed copyright on the timepiece.

Some other brands (like Rolex) are responding to this growing threat by offering in-house resale services. This is not to say brands are not two-faced. Most brands are unwilling to take legal action against their dealers caught defaulting or even reduce their stock volume.

Should You Buy Watches From Gray Market Dealers?

No one is immune to a discount. As the gray market continues to grow massively with an increased number of luxury watches on their sites with beckoning bargains, they have become a powerful force that is impossible to ignore.

While buying a watch from a gray market or not lies within your power, take a look at the advantages and disadvantages of doing so below to make an informed decision.

Advantages

Availability

The gray market offers a wide array of elegant watches that are readily available and easier to access. There is hardly any waiting list, even for luxury watches from high-end brands – which is not the case with licensed dealers. It is even possible to access rare collections on the gray market.

Convenience

Gray market dealers operate online, so you can browse through numerous available options and make purchases easily with flexible payment options, including cash on delivery with just one click. Features like trade-in schemes for old watches, price-match, etc, heighten the ease and comfort of an effortless shopping experience.

Price Point

Since gray market dealers usually get their watches in bulk from VAT-free countries, they are priced more competitively and are steeply discounted than those obtained from authorized dealers.

Disadvantages

Warranty And Resale Value

Watch warranties protect against manufacturer’s defects and give you (the buyer) the opportunity to be compensated for any losses suffered while purchasing the watch from an authorized dealer. The complete manufacturer’s warranty is one of the benefits an authorized dealer can offer, which gray market dealers can’t.

Apart from fixing up whatever is wrong with the watch after purchase, the warranty card is seen as the Certificate Of Authenticity, making the timepiece retain its value when and if you decide to resell it. This is a significant trade-off when dealing with gray market dealers because gray market watches do not include the manufacturer’s warranty.

Authenticity And Product Knowledge

One of the biggest issues with gray market dealers is authenticity. Since the watches are obtained outside the manufacturer’s official distribution network, the risk of counterfeit watches is present, albeit very low.

Unlike watches obtained from the gray market, buyers can feel 100% secure when dealing with authorized dealers (ADs) since what they get isn’t counterfeit, and ADs can provide knowledgeable answers to product questions too.

For the gray market, there are bound to be a lot of fake watches in circulation, and it’s not so easy to undermine counterfeiters since the serial numbers are often completely removed, making tracking impossible.

Quality Repairs

A watch obtained from an authorized dealer is eligible for in-house maintenance within the warranty period. Authorized dealers have direct access to various brands’ service centers, as brands do not service watches purchased outside their official network. So it will cost you some money to have your timepiece sent back to the manufacturer for fixing if you get it from the gray market.

Jomashop Vs Watchmaxx: Which is Best for You?

If you’re in the market for a quality watch, you’ve probably stumbled upon Jomashop, the king of the discount gray market online watch stores. Ranked 19 from over 100 jewelry and luxury products brands in the United States, Jomashop was founded by Marvin Sternberg and began operation in 1987, intending to be the number one luxury store gray market.

Watchmaxx, on the other hand, is a family-owned business founded in 1999. Both stores claim to offer a 100% authentic and unrivaled selection of luxury watches at some of the most competitive prices, but how do they compete against each other? Let’s find out!

Brand Selection

Both stores have a wide array of watches to choose from. But, Jomashop’s inventory is more extensive and varied, with watches from hundreds of brands, including Cartier, Omega, and Rolex.

Watchmaxx, on the other hand, doesn’t carry every mainstream watch brand but has a strong inventory in the low to mid-range market. So if you’re interested in an affordable luxury watch from brands like Tissot, Citizen, Seiko, Orient watches, Oris, or even Longines, Watchmaxx is worth skimming through for deals.

This is not to say Watchmaxx doesn’t have luxury watches from prestigious brands, as they do have watches from numerous brands. But Jomashop wins the selection category because, in addition to low and mid-range watch brands, it delves deeper into the watch world and carries ultra high-end timepieces with complex movements like Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, and Patek Philippe.

Customer Service

Both WatchMaxx and Jomashop have built their brand on trust, and customers are generally satisfied with their purchases, according to online reviews. While none of them can be said to offer services that are up to par with today’s standards, they have acceptable end-user ratings.

WatchMaxx, for instance, has been rated 4.79 stars from over 9,000 reviews, while Jomashop has a 4.9 stars rating on Amazon from over 70,000 verified purchases. This shows that both Jomashop and WatchMaxx constantly work hard to ensure their customers feel secure when making purchases since poor service always leads to loss of revenue and lower profits.

However, prevailing comments show that customer service for both online stores is not always proactive, lacks product stock information, and doesn’t emphasize value to the end user.

Shipping and Return policy

Dealing with returns is unavoidable, and when it comes to the gray market, there are higher return rates compared to brick-and-mortar stores. Unfortunately, the reviews for both Jomashop and WatchMaxx are lined with people waiting for up to several days for their orders to be shipped.

So, don’t expect swift shipping as delays are common since both companies are large and run their logistics and warehouse. In addition to this, if you find your product defective on receipt, you are accountable for all the return shipping costs for repairs.

Reputation

Jomashop and Watchmaxx are legit online retailers that source authentic stocks from reputable authorized dealers, distributors, and jewelers. Both stores have been in business for a long time and have established a good reputation for standing behind their products.

Jomashop has a stronger brand reputation than Watchmaxx, with a more extensive reach. It currently ships to over 150 countries, and its merchandise is guaranteed. Some of them even come with a warranty card (even though this isn’t validated by the watch brand), and the watches are as shown on the website.

Reliability

Both stores strive to be credible and transparent in their deals and how they treat their customers. However, when you deal with thousands of orders daily, it’s natural to make mistakes.

There are plenty of unhappy reviews from verified buyers that received wrong or defective items and had a hard time returning or repairing them. Always remember that, when you buy from a gray market dealer, you lose out on the support and assistance of the watch brand itself.

Jomashop Pros

An extensive list of high-quality watches with frequently updated stock
Affordable prices for high-end luxury watches
Frequent promos and coupons, as well as a watch trade-in service
Fast domestic shipping plus international shipping to about 150 countries
Positive reputation

Jomashop Cons

Long delivery times for international buyers
Return shipping charges are not covered
Poor customer service & bad exchange, refund, and cancellation policy
Risk of purchasing a defective piece or counterfeit watch

WatchMaxx Pros

Great website layout and selection of products
A wide array of luxury watches with competitive prices.
Quick delivery/Fast domestic shipping
Generous discount code options
Free sizing service

WatchMaxx Cons

Additional charges on international orders
Risk of purchasing a defective or counterfeit watch
No factory warranty
Subpar customer support with a bad cancellation & refund policy

A Necessary Evil

Even though the gray market acts as an acceptable solution to overstocking, it can still be harmful to the luxury watch industry. Its prevalence has been significant over the past few years, and it may even outgrow authorized dealers in terms of watch sales.

The gray market does come with a lot of benefits, including access to luxury watches at lower prices. However, if anything happens to your timepiece, you’re likely to spend more to fix it than the amount you saved from shopping in the gray market. Not to mention the constant risk of buying a counterfeit watch.

If you want the peace of mind that you’re buying 100% authentic watches, then you should opt for an authorized dealer. Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer for many popular watch brands such as Omega, Seiko, and Longines and provides an excellent customer experience with an unmatched warranty.

Your ULTIMATE Guide to Seiko SKX Series (Answering All FAQs!)

Anne Bensons

February 15, 2023

Today we take a horological dive into the most iconic and affordable legendary timepiece of all time; the Seiko SKX. Arguably the most popular watch that has introduced many enthusiasts to the intricate world of horology, the SKX line was a well-kept Japanese secret until its release in 1996.

Built as a beater watch that combines the Japanese appreciation of Haute horology and the technical mastery of Seiko, the Seiko SKX is a highly respected watch with a cult following. The two variants, the black SKX007, and the dark blue SKX009 received profound interest from divers worldwide. The Seiko SKX is highly reliable, sturdy, good-looking, and affordable.

However, Seiko has discontinued the production of the SKX diver. So what now? Is it still the go-to beater watch? Are there alternatives to the extremely popular SKX007 and SKX009? Will the discontinued Seiko SKX go up in value? Is it worth the hype in 2022?

Read on to find out answers to these questions and more as we quickly delve into the story behind the launch of the Seiko SKX, its evolution over the years, the most notable watches from the Seiko SKX line, and some excellent alternatives you should be checking out.

Our Top 3 Picks

Seiko Prospex

SRPB51

Stainless Steel
Automatic
43.8mm

Check Offer

Seiko 5 Sports

SRPD91

Stainless steel case with black ion finish
Automatic
42.5mm

Check Offer

Seiko Prospex

SRPB51

Stainless Steel
Automatic
43.8mm

Check Offer

But first, the basic question…

What Is the Seiko SKX?

The Seiko SKX is a line that was introduced by Seiko in 1996. The watches in this series are fitted with the Seiko 7S26 caliber, a 21-jewel automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve and a 21,600 vph frequency used to power numerous Seiko high-functioning divers with up to 200m water resistance.

Among the first models introduced at that time, the SKX007 and SKX009 were the two variants that stood out and became the best-selling diver’s watches at that time. The SKX series can trace its DNA back to the creation of Seiko’s (and Japan’s) first diver’s watch, the 150M Diver’s 6217, or 62MAS, as Seiko aficionados, call it.

Launched to contend with Swiss rivals and even beat them in terms of quality, reliability, and performance, the Diver’s 6217 was originally made for the 1964 Japanese Olympics with Seiko as the official timing partner.

The 150M Diver portrayed all the elements of a true diver’s watch. The hour makers and hands were luminescent, the bezel could rotate bi-directionally, and it was fitted with the cal. 6127, a 17-jewel automatic movement that guaranteed water resistance up to 150 meters deep.

The watch was largely successful due to its accessibility, reliability, and affordability. It received great responses and immediately placed Seiko in a strong position in the global market and marked the beginning of Seiko’s pursuit of the creation of reliable diver watches.

Following the success of the Diver’s 6217, Seiko made history again with the professional diver’s 600M, an impressive tool watch for exploring the deep crafted out of titanium. Fast forward to the 1980s, and several world firsts diving watches would be produced by the brand.

These include the world’s first Hybrid Diver’s 150M (the Seiko H558 Arnie), which came with an alarm and chronograph and was launched in 1982. And how could we forget the world’s first Diver’s 1000M (7C46-7009), which featured a ceramic outer case in 1986, and the world’s best-selling Quartz Diver’s 200 meters watch (7c43-6010) in 1985.

As production of the 6309 ended (it reigned from 1976 to 1988), Seiko replaced it with the very first non-prospex timepiece (Prospex means Professional Specifications, and the Prospex collection is lined with high-end Seiko tool watches) by way of the 7002.

A timepiece that was rugged on all levels and became the first true beater watch made by Seiko for extreme sports, manual labor, and everyday use.

It was loved immediately after it hit the market, achieving immense fame among personnel of various military forces and freedivers all over the globe. It is a predecessor to the modern-day SKX, which picks up where the 7002 left off.

So we have established that the Seiko SKX was introduced in 1996 and is a worthy descendant of the Seiko 7002. However, a few variants stand out, like the popular and loved black SKX007, one of the most highly recommended and affordable mechanical tool watches in recent history.

What Makes the Seiko SKX So Iconic?

Seiko SKX watches have all been discontinued by Seiko, but they remain widely available. Compared to other Seiko collections, the SKX line is the 3rd most popular, with an outstanding design, sturdy construction, reliable movement, and affordable price.

The SKX007 and SKX009 were two of the longest-running models by the brand, as they were produced in huge numbers for over twenty years. But, again, why… just why is the Seiko SKX so popular? Read on to find out.

1. The Movement

All the watches from the SKX line are fitted with Seiko’s 7S26 movement. A solid automatic movement was first released in 1996. It is built around four primary moving parts and has been reported to work perfectly well for five to twenty years without needing servicing.

The 7S26 is also a prized workhorse, thanks to Seiko’s proprietary diashock anti-shock system that makes it resistant to damage from falls. Beating at a rate of 21,600 bph, the 7S26 features 21 jewels, a quickset day/date display, an automatic bi-directional winding, and a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

Its accuracy has been rated at approximately -20 to +40 seconds per day which is pretty large, although the movement can be adjusted to gain a higher accuracy. It is non-hand winding and non-hacking and can still be found in some entry-level Seiko 5 watches.

Overall, the movement is affordable, reliable, and doesn’t require much maintenance to keep it running smoothly. After its discontinuation, it was replaced with the upgraded 4R36, which features hacking and hand-winding.

2. The Accessible Price Point

The SKX line was never meant to be a luxury collection. It was just meant to continue the brand’s legacy of excellent affordable watches. That said, because it uses an inexpensive movement paired with some standard watch components, the price point is insanely accessible.

Before Seiko discontinued it, the Seiko SKX sold for $150 to $250 for a new piece. Three years after its discontinuation, the watches in the Seiko SKX collection can still be obtained below the $500 mark on the private sales market.

3. The Case and Dial

The case and dial of the Seiko SKX line take cues from its predecessor, the 7002, giving it a universal appeal. The case bears the unique Seiko design with Seiko’s trademark Tsunami logo at its back. There are claims that the Seiko Tsunami Logo is based on Japan’s Most Famous Artwork, The Great Wave (Kanagawa Oki Nami Ura).

The woodblock print by Hokusai Katsushika (1760-1849) depicts an imposing picture of a rogue wave with three boats and Mount Fuji in the background. Given the importance of the Hokusai woodcut in Japanese culture, it’s hard to imagine the Tsunami Logo has nothing to do with it.

Back to the Seiko SKX case, the diameter measures 42mm, while a compact lug-to-lug distance of 46mm, means it wears well on a variety of small to medium-sized wrists. The thickness measures 13.5mm, meaning it’s hefty but not too bulky for active work, while the crown at the 4 o’clock position won’t dig into the wearer’s wrist.

Overall, the case is clean and good-looking, with smooth finishings between the sections and a brushed surface finish on the top. The dial is super legible, with vivid colors that make it stand out clearly. It shines through a Hardlex crystal – which is fine considering the price – with Hardlex being more scratch-resistant than regular mineral crystal.

Apart from this, it is almost impossible to find a mid-priced Seiko timepiece fitted with a Sapphire Crystal. The hands and big, chunky, painted hour markers stand out prominently. They are generously filled with the legendary Seiko Lumibrite luminescent solution, making the watch stand out clearly in the dark.

Aesthetically, there’s nothing not to love about the SKX’s dial. It is extremely legible, as one would hope a Sports watch from Seiko would be, and gives you need and more; a day/date display at the 3 o’clock position. How cool is that?

Is the Seiko SKX Discontinued?

To the world’s dismay, in the 2nd half of 2019, Seiko officially announced the discontinuation of the Seiko SKX. Though you can still find new ones, the only place where you can obtain one is on the gray market with a significant value appreciation.

So the lack of availability has only increased the demand (and, of course, the price), which is normal, as discontinued timepieces are one of the most highly sought-after and coveted watches in the pre-owned market. The Seiko SKX has remained legendary as a rugged, capable, and affordable beater watch option and can still be obtained below the $500 mark in the gray market.

Should You Buy a New or Pre-owned SKX?

The watches in the Seiko SKX line were created to stand the test of time and can still be worn after decades with an assurance of their quality intact.

When it comes to choosing between a new or pre-owned SKX, it all boils down to personal preference, even though the most apparent reason why anyone would choose to buy a pre-owned SKX rather than the new one is the difference in price and availability.

Purchasing a new piece means you’re guaranteed to receive a complete box set with all the accessories, a full warranty from the manufacturer, and of course, the assurance of knowing the watch has never been worn.

On the other hand, if you’re buying pre-owned, you might not get some accessories or any warranty, and if it had not been serviced by a highly reputable source, it can be less reliable and incur problems over time.

Seiko SKX References & Current Prices

The design of the SKX bears a resemblance to the eye-catching original 1980s Seiko 7002 diver watch that was famous for its unique features. Signature translucent dials with distinctive rectangular hour markers showcase the day/date disc rotation with profound legibility that adds to the retro effect.

And though there might be slight differences between the variants in the Seiko SKX line, the watches here are known for durability, performance, and value.

Since the introduction of the SKX series in 1996, the collection has remained globally respected among collectors. Its flawless 42-mm case size, robust caliber 7S26, affordable price, and 200 meters of water resistance made it the gateway timepiece to the world of dive watches.

Seiko SKX007

The Seiko SKX007 gets the most attention out of all the SKX watches due to its universal black dial design. Even though the SKX007 receives a lot of attention, the iconic ISO-rated dive watch is not the only legendary timepiece from the SKX line.

There’s also the SKX173 variation which was made specifically for the North American market. The watch bears the same resemblance with SKXs, but subtle differences can be noticed on the dial (such as rectangular hour makers, different seconds hands with a lumed circle at the head and not the tail, bolder triangles on the bezel, etc).

Seiko SKX009

The second most popular SKX reference is the Seiko SKX009. It’s very similar to the 007 but features a deep blue dial with an iconic “Pepsi” bezel. Its American-market counterpart was the SKX175, although there weren’t any significant differences between the two pieces. Still, the navy blue dial with the contrasting red part of the bezel was adored by many watch collectors around the world.

Seiko SKX013

Another famous SKX model is the SKX013. This is a smaller watch with a diameter of 38mm and a lug-to-lug of only 44mm. This compact size made it ideal for people with smaller wrists or those who prefer a smaller watch. The SKX013 featured the same dial and bezel combination as the SKX007 but with a different seconds hand.

Seiko SKX011

The Seiko SKX011 was an underrated model in the SKX family that did not gather the fame and attention of its brothers. This mostly comes down to its polarizing color combination of an orange dial and black bezel with gold accents.

But these colors should be very familiar to fans of the Seiko Orange Monster models. Another issue with the SKX011 is that it’s a Japanese Domestic Market model that wasn’t officially released in the West, making it difficult to find.

Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) Seiko SKX

While Seiko is a Japanese watch brand that designs all its watches, most SKX watches were not actually manufactured in Japan. Instead, only a handful was built in Seiko’s Japanese factories, and they were primarily aimed at the Japanese market.

Most Seiko SKX watches were manufactured in Seiko factories in Malaysia or Singapore. These models are indicated by the K letter next to the model name (SKX007K1). Comparatively, the Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) SKX watches are denoted by the letter J (SKX007J1).

Essentially, the two types of SKX watches are identical, besides a bit of writing on the dial. But, there’s the notion that JDM models have better construction, finishing, and quality control. While this hasn’t been proven, and Seiko hasn’t confirmed it, watch fans tend to go for the JDM vs the K models if they can find them.

Current Seiko SKX Prices

When it comes to pricing, it is difficult to put a pin on the price of these watches since Seiko has discontinued the SKX line. What’s worth mentioning is that on the gray market, the JDM models sell for approximately 20% more than the K models. The exotic nature of the JDM SKX watches (in addition to their limited availability) plays a vital role in their popularity and price.

Demand and supply shifts may largely affect the price point, but at the time of writing this article, brand-new JDM Seiko SKX watches can be obtained between $600 – $850. Comparatively, the K models demand between $450 – $600 (with the K1s/rubber strap variants being more affordable than the K2s/steel bracelet variants).

With supply becoming lower every day since the discontinuation of the SKX, more and more watch fans will eventually turn to the second-hand market to find SKX watches. Pricing on the used market can vary significantly and heavily depends on the condition of the watch. Always make sure to do your research before shopping for one though, as there are a lot of counterfeit SKX watches out there.

Seiko SKX Replacements

When Seiko discontinued the SKX line in the second half of 2019, they quickly followed up with a more elegant version of the sports watch to appeal to the next generation of consumers: the Seiko 5 Sports collection. Interestingly, all of Seiko’s diver’s watches are now Prospex logo-signed.

Seiko 5 What?

Originally released in the 1960s, Seiko 5 was meant to deliver highly durable beater watches with profound levels of reliability, durability, performance, and value at an affordable price. Its rebirth as a replacement for the revered SKX line is no surprise, as it is a proper replacement for any value-hungry collector or buyer.

Taking inspiration from its predecessor, the 5 Sports collection comes with the same values as the originals. But, it incorporates a fresh new look and the numeral ‘’5’’, representing the original five key features of every Seiko 5 timepiece present today: Automatic movement, Day-date display, Water Resistance, Recessed crown, and durable case and bracelet.

One of the major improvements in this replacement is the upgrade from the popular 7S36 movement to the Caliber 4R36, which was a very good move since the 7S36 caliber was outdated and couldn’t be wound by hand.

The new Caliber 4R36 now offers wearers the desirable hacking and hand-winding functionality in addition to all the features of the 7S36 movement; hours, minutes, central seconds, day/date calendar at 3 o’clock, an anti-shock system, 41 hours of power reserve and 21,600 bph.

The Seiko 5 Sports has a dial and case that resembles the SKX watches, but this time the lugs are drilled, and the case back is transparent to offer you a perfect view of the timekeeping mechanics in action.

Unlike the SKX, this line includes watches with a push-pull crown, not a screw-down one. The disadvantage of this is a lowered water resistance rating from 200m to 100m which is okay for swimming and snorkeling but not deep diving.

Different strap styles with more choices in various colors, including stainless steel, leather, rubber, silicone, and even interchangeable nylon bands that appeal to different sections of the market, have been vastly improved in 5 Sports.

The rubber straps are now softer and more pliable. A striking sunray or cool matte dial features the signature Seiko 5 Sports logo on all the watches, and luminous hand and indices with a day/date calendar keep the spirit of the SKX line alive on the wrist of the wearer.

Before we look at the Pros and Cons of both collections, here’s a quick rundown on a few models in the Seiko 5 Sports

1. SRPD71

The stainless steel case of the SRPD71 measures 42.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 13mm. The size of the casing bears a resemblance to the SKX. The SRPD71 “suit style” is a more elegant version of the 5 Sports line.

Its shape is round, and the bezel is unidirectional. However, it looks to be smaller, with the stainless steel crown resting between a crown guard elegantly positioned at 4 o’clock to prevent it from digging into the wrist, thereby increasing comfort.

The matte metallic blue dial goes well with cream-colored indices, and a sharp-looking mesh (Milanese style) steel bracelet gives it an overall crisp look without bordering on “bling bling”.

So it’s subtle but not distracting and the matte effect over the metallic dial, in addition to luminous arrow-styled hands and markers, offers an excellent level of legibility that is beautiful to behold.

A day-date window is positioned at three o’clock, and it is powered by Seiko’s own in-house automatic caliber 4R36 movement, which is viewable through the exhibition case back.

2. SRPD91

The SRPD91 “Sports Style” has all the design elements that define the SKX line but with an improved build quality and a higher price tag of around $300 compared to the SKX.

It comes in a stainless steel black PVD case that measures 42.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 13.4mm, which is a fantastic measurement considering that it is a sports watch and has a very straightforward design.

The grainy black dial with slight matte finishing has applied hour markers, one of the upgrades compared to the SKX line that came with printed ones, with a generous amount of Lumibrite applied to them to ensure a long-lasting glow.

Overall, the dial is clean, simple, and highly legible, with the classic Seiko 5-day and date window at 3 o’clock. It is presented in an olive green nylon NATO strap that offers versatility and a tactical military look. It is equipped with the in-house automatic caliber 4R36, which, unlike the SKX line, has hacking seconds and manual winding functions.

3. SPRD77

I found myself gravitating towards the SPRD77 “Sense Style” the most. For starters, it has a unique green dial with a lot more details and an interesting texture than other models in this price range. The case size and design are the same as the last generation SKXs, and it comes with a green nylon NATO strap with a gunmetal buckle and catchers.

There’s something about the orange seconds hand sweeping over tiny plateaus and valleys and breaking up the more or less monochromatic dial that is just appealing. Encompassing the edge of the dial is the chapter ring with silver-printed second markers.

In contrast, the color of the coin edge bezel is a deeper teal of gunmetal gray, which compliments the dial nicely. Inside, the 4R36, a 24-jewel automatic movement with hacking and hand-winding functionality, provides approximately 40 hours of power reserve.

Seiko SKX

Pros

Number one beater watch; easy to wear all day long for any kind of activity.
Great looks with a timeless design.
Exceptional value for money
Most accessible entry-level diver’s of all time

Cons

Discontinued line with Inflated prices.
Outdated 7S26 in-house movement with no hacking or hand-winding.
Unconventional crown position at four o’clock.
Tons of modern alternatives on the market

Seiko 5 Sports

Pros

Sturdy and robust movement with hacking and hand-winding.
Bright lume markers.
Insane durability.

Cons

Lack of a screw-down crown.
Not ideal for diving as it lacks the 200m of water resistance.
Hefty weight.

Seiko SKX Alternatives

The Seiko SKX007 was indeed one of the most popular dive watches on the market, with a near cult following before the discontinuation of the SKX line in 2019.

Let’s be honest now. It’s 2022, and apart from the inflated prices of most SKX watches on the gray market, many of them lack a modern twist which can be found in alternatives, even from Seiko, as the brand has over thirty new Seiko 5 Sports models that are a great alternative to the discontinued SKX line.

Anyone who has always wanted to sport a Seiko SKX timepiece but balked at the inflated prices should definitely take a closer look at these alternatives. There are a few awesome alternatives to the Seiko SKX that come with a screw-down crown, 200+ meters of water resistance, and are under $500.

Seiko Samurai SRPB51

The Seiko Samurai SRPB51 has been one of the most popular watches from Seiko’s ”Prospex” and ”Samurai” collections for over five years. Like the SKX007, the watch boasts 200 meters of water resistance and luminous markings. Adding to that are a classic design and handy additional features, such as a hacking movement and manual winding.

Even if you’re already familiar with the Samurai, as many collectors are, here’s some background; Seiko Samurai was first introduced in 2004 and was well received by the audience because of its robustness and sleek design. It was called the Samurai because of its sword-shaped hands and was available in titanium and stainless steel.

The Samurai SRPB51 is an excellent alternative to the SKX because it’s an affordable yet well-built sporty dive watch that is really accurate, has amazing lume, and is easily read. It might be bulky at 43.8mm, and hefty with a case thickness of 13.5mm, but that’s exactly why it’s a robust sports watch.

The textured dial is stunning, clean, and legible, with polished second, hour, and minute hands that feature a generous amount of Lumibrite. Speaking of cleanliness, the dial features the Prospex logo, the word ‘Automatic’, the depth rating, and a discreet date window at 3 o’clock.

The Seiko Samurai SRPB51 is fitted with Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex crystal and the Seiko’s caliber 4R35, which offers a reasonable 41-hour power reserve. It also comes with a bracelet that has a three-fold clasp to keep it secure and in place.

The Seiko Prospex “Turtle” SRPC25K1

The Seiko Prospex “Turtle” comes with an oval case that resembles a turtle’s shell, hence the nickname by followers of the brand. The Turtle line first surfaced in 1976 under the name 6306, but it’s unclear if production continued when the SKX came on board.

It resurfaced in 2019 and has become a desired alternative to the discontinued SKX line. The Seiko Prospex “Turtle” is instantly recognizable due to its cushion-shaped, oval case and crown at the 4 o’clock position – a historic trait of the Turtle line, which is one feature that facilitates a comfortable fit. The case is large with a diameter of 44.3 mm but doesn’t feel oversized on the wrist, partly due to the short lugs and soft curves.

The dial is legible and Seiko, as always, uses its luminous material, LumiBrite, for the indices. The hour, minute, and seconds hands are also coated in LumiBrite, and the luminous material is only absent at 3 o’clock, where the day and date display sits.

Seiko’s Hardlex crystal, which is between the standard mineral glass and the sapphire crystal in terms of durability and scratch resistance, is used here with a stainless steel bracelet that has a practical diver’s extension.

Overall, the Seiko Prospex SRPC25K1 is a robust diving watch that is water-resistant to 200 meters (20 bar, 656 ft). The reliable automatic in-house caliber 4R36 offers a power reserve of 41 hours, hacking seconds, and a manual-winding function.

Prospex Special PADI Edition Samurai Black

The PADI collection is exclusive to Seiko and stands for Professional Association of Diving Instructors, which happens to be one of the world’s leading scuba diving training organizations that unifies divers who share a passion for adventure and love for the ocean around the globe.

Featuring an elegant ceramic bezel with light blue color highlights, the angular-shaped design has been nicknamed King Samurai by Seiko fans. That’s because the case looks as if it had been sliced by a Japanese Samurai sword, though it’s the concave curvature of the middle part of the case.

The Prospex special PADI edition has an impressive 200 meters water resistance, a 43.8mm case with 22mm lugs, which makes changing the bracelet easy, a 120-click unidirectional bezel, a date display, and a screw-down crown situated at three o’clock.

The watch uses a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface and has an overall flat face and chamfered edge. On the inside of that is a well-executed dial that is superbly clean with a mind-blowing lume.

The back of the case is opaque – so unlike some watches in this collection, you won’t be able to see the movement beating inside – and screwed down with a recessed stamp of the Seiko Tsunami logo on the back.

Beneath it, Seiko’s manufactured Caliber 4R36 offers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours alongside the hacking seconds and a manual-winding function.

Other SKX Alternatives Aside From Seiko

There are several outstanding diving watches on the market with rock-solid specs and price tags that are hard to resist. And while they may look the same at a glance, they all have distinct looks and features to suit different tastes. Let’s take a look at some standout performers.

Orient Kamasu (Mako III)

The Orient Kamasu is one badass model that can make us forget the SKX and is also one of the most popular diving watches from Orient. Not only is the Kamasu an affordable quality timepiece, but it is also a valuable collectible for those just entering the realm of collecting, and every great entry-level dive watch list certainly has its name.

This is the most standard entry-level Orient diver’s. And guess what? It comes with Sapphire glass. Made entirely of 316L stainless steel, the size of this watch’s casing is 41.8mm wide with a thickness of 12.8mm and a lug-to-lug of 47mm. The timepiece is just right and will sit snugly on various wrists.

It weighs in at 154 grams (this figure varies slightly depending on the strap), making it more or less equal to the SKX. The shape is different, though. It uses a flat sapphire crystal and has no curvature or doming, so there’s no distortion of the indices when read from an angle. Also, the crown at the conventional 3 o’clock position is not SKX-like.

The bracelet is versatile, with links that mimic the finishing pattern of the case and a clasp double secured by two side-release buttons and a flip-lock. Orient and Seiko collaborated to present the caliber F6922, which powers the watch.

The caliber F6922 is an improved and robust movement that contains 22 jewels, beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, offers both manual winding and hacking capabilities, and exhibits a power reserve of 40 hours.

Citizen Promaster Diver (BN0150-28E)

With an irresistible price tag, the Citizen Promaster Diver is one of Citizen’s most popular diving watches! It is definitely worth considering as an alternative to the discontinued SKX line as it is a solar-powered analog quartz watch with an insane power reserve of approximately six months.

Featuring a 44-millimeters-wide stainless-steel case with the crown and date at the 4 o’clock position, the Promaster Diver is a little smaller than the old Promaster Diver. Instead of a mechanical movement inside, there’s an Eco Drive caliber.

Yes, let’s talk about this stunning gloss black dial! One of the great strengths of the Promaster Automatic and many of the watches in this collection is how readable the hands are. The dial is pretty basic – no surprises at all.

The large white trapezoidal markers for the hours contrast perfectly against the black dial, with stylized hands that enable you to easily differentiate minutes and hours, joining forces to enhance legibility.

Both markers and hands are primarily covered in luminous material, while the brand’s logo can be seen below 12 o’clock, and a water resistance indicator stays above the 6 o’clock position. Overall the watch is solid, well-executed, and good-looking.

Like the SKX, it has a 200m water resistance, a screwed case back, a unidirectional bezel with a 60-minute scale printed on an aluminum insert, and a bright lume in the hands and time indices.

Conclusion

Seiko has been in the watchmaking business since 1881. The brand is recognized worldwide for Its technological innovation and accessibility. Seiko’s timepieces represent precision and ingenuity; anyone who keys in the words ‘best entry-level watch’ into any search engine would find the SKX littered across top suggestions.

The reason is simple. The SKX is possibly the choicest iteration of an affordable tool watch the vast world of watchmaking has unveiled for a very long time. The movement (7S26) is robust, reliable, and durable and proffers decades of carefree service. The watch itself is impressively accurate, with a flawless design and decent bezel action.

The case is rock solid, and the dial is a true reminiscence of the ’90s. If you are thinking of adding one to your collection, go right ahead!

Franck Muller Vs. Richard Mille Watches (Who WINS the Battle?)

Anne Bensons

December 3, 2022

When big names like Cristiano Ronaldo and Jay Z flaunt a high-end watch with pride, the world pays attention. From movie stars like Arnold Schwarzenegger to star sports players like Odell Beckham, Richard Mille and Franck Muller have become a go-to watch brand for celebrities who want to collaborate on designs and stylish timepieces.

As a rabid demand for Richard Mille watches continues to escalate among top figures, many watch enthusiasts are left disillusioned by the long waiting list, and shocking price. This has led many buyers to explore other high-end brands, one of which is Frank Muller.

Considered the original Richard Mille, Franck Muller has become the one brand that offers high-end, unique, and stylish timepieces that are analog to certain Richard Mille models such as the Cintrée Curvex which has a tonneau (or barrel-shaped) case with ergonomic doming. But is Franck Muller better than Richard Mille? This in-depth and insightful comparison & review will help you choose the right timepiece between these two.

Franck Muller vs Richard Mille: Brief history of Franck Muller

Swiss watchmaker Franck Muller was born in 1958. The brand takes its name from its founder who is a trained master watchmaker from the town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. His passion to produce timepieces unlike any other started after he graduated from Ecole d’Horlogerie de Genève, a watchmaking school in Geneva.

He began by repairing top-quality complicated timepieces, which were mostly pocket watches from the collection of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In 1984, he designed his first tourbillon wristwatch, and following its success, he launched his watch brand in 1991 where he began designing limited ultra-complicated timepieces for private clients.

His collections immediately became famous in Europe and the United States and since its inception, the Geneva-based House of Franck Muller has shocked the watch world with a string of “world premieres” and many other intricate timepieces earning him the ‘Master of Complications’ titles.

Today, the Franck Muller brand has become world-famous for its Luxury and Grand Complications produced with a quality skillset and watchmaking expertise. The brand’s headquarters, also called Watch land, is located in Genthod, north of Geneva with other production sites in Lajoux, Les Bois, Plan-les-Ouates, and Meyrin.

Richard Mille

Just like Franck Muller, Richard Mille is relatively new to the luxury watch market. The brand was founded in 2001 by Dominique Guenat and Richard Mille, in Les Breuleux, Switzerland, and is known for successfully using extreme luxury pricing. His watchmaking career began after he started working at Finhor, a local watchmaking company in 1974.

Finhor was bought by Matra in 1981 and Richard Mille rose to a managerial position which he held for about ten years until a disagreement about commercial strategy at Mauboussin, where he was a shareholder, made him leave his position as General Manager of the watchmaking division and launch his range of watches.

Together with Dominique Guenat, he drew up plans and founded the Richard Mille watchmaking brand in collaboration with Swiss watchmaking manufacturer Audemars Piguet. It all started with Richard Mille dreaming of combining the worlds of cars and aeronautics with Haute Horlogerie.

From the use of extraordinary components like space-age materials such as Carbon TPT to grade 5 titanium and graphene, Richard Mille has blazed the trail in the watch world of innovation and Technology. Richard Mille is also the first watch brand to develop new movements for every model and utilize materials from the racing and aerospace sectors.

From the unveiling of Its first watch, the RM 001 Tourbillon in 2001 was made from titanium and carbon nano-fiber to the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph, a highly complex sports timepiece with a skeletonized automatic winding movement with extraordinarily shock-resistance, Richard Mille has made headlines in the luxury timepiece industry. You should also look for some of the Richard Mille Alternatives.

Unique Design: Franck Muller vs. Richard Mille

Both Franck Muller and Richard Mille have effectively incorporated the watch world of luxurious design with dazzlement that is uniquely attractive even to the untrained eye. The watches produced by these brands have unique designs that are far from conventional, but each has a distinct look and feel. Franck Muller timepieces are easily identifiable thanks to their Cintrée Curvex shape and sporty elegance.

The brand is known to encapsulate artistic flair with unique aesthetics and beautiful designs of the numerals, crystallizing the glamorous culture of the late 1990s and the high-tech aspects of the 21st century. Inspired by automotive designs, Richard Mille is world-renowned for producing high-end timepieces that are futuristic and revolutionary.

The brand has established the production of iconic tonneau-shaped cases that are unique yet classic in appearance as its main feature when it comes to unique designs but looking back at history, we see that unique tonneau-shape watches with large numbers and indices had always been a great representation of the Franck Muller’s central theme and design so both brands have similar watches, the only difference is the flair and technical twist that Richard Mille adds to his which ultimately increases the appeal of his timepieces.

Reputation: Franck Muller vs. Richard Mille

When it comes to reputation, it’s hard to generally put one brand ahead of another. Both brands have reputable careers in horology and have risen to global fame, but Richard Mille’s bold aesthetic details have positioned It among the most important brands in the world that are sought after by elite members of society. This is not the case with Franck Muller watches.

Richard Mille’s high reputation among the rich is renowned, so much so that the term “Billionaire’s Handshake” has been attributed to those who wear Richard Mille’s timepieces. In addition to impressive design, engineering, and high-tech innovation, Richard Mille’s marketing strategy is pure genius. The brand produces less than 5,000 watches per year, making Its timepieces highly exclusive, which soars its reputation because more elites continue to crave it.

Franck Muller on the other hand has been dubbed the “Master of Complications” in the watch world. A name that reflects confidence in the intricacy and ultra-complicated designs of the brand’s watches. He rose to fame when he produced the world’s most complicated wristwatch called the Aeternitas Mega ( a timepiece that houses 36 complications and was manufactured from a total of 1,483 components) but doesn’t use extreme luxury pricing like Richard Mille.

While Franck Muller’s appeal remains strong among watch enthusiasts, Its reputation has also faded a bit from the mainstream watch-buying segments. Wearing a Richard Mille timepiece today says things to other people about you in a way that no other watch brand can. Typically it indicates that you’re among the first class in society who is doing very well financially and that you have a level of good taste for luxurious items.

More recently, it also shows that you have connections with dealers and though Franck Muller is a rockstar in the world of Swiss unless you hang out with some hardcore watch enthusiast who knows about Franck Muller, his watches simply won’t have the same effect Mille’s watches have on people.

Movements

Franck Muller watches mostly use the modified ETA movements but they are exemptions. The Casablanca 5850 Chronograph for instance is powered by the manual-winding FM cal. 1870, which is based upon the Lemania cal. 1872 (Lemania was a historic Swiss ebauche movement manufacturer famed for their chronograph movements.

It is now called Manufacture Breguet) and some men’s watches come with mechanical in-house movements that are all tried and tested, making them strong performers. Richard Mille in opposition uses in-house movements for all Its timepieces. This means the movements are made by the brand themselves and everyone knows that in-house movements are generally of higher quality than any of the mass-produced movements that are being used by other watch brands.

Prices

Richard Mille’s watches are extremely popular and are also considered to be one of the most expensive timepieces in the world. As of the time of writing this article, prices for Richard Mille watches range from $80,000 to $2 million. The cheapest is the new RM 005, which costs around $80,000. The reason Richard Mille’s watches are so expensive is partly due to the manufacturing process being complex and very time-consuming in addition to the image and reputation that the brand’s watches bear.

Unlike Richard Mille, Franck Muller’s catalog is immense, resulting in a wide range of prices. A simple women’s watch can be gotten for about 3,000 USD, while modest men’s models cost between 5,700 and 7,500 USD. Watches with diamonds or other precious stones, and those that feature a tourbillon in addition to a perpetual calendar cost around 70,000 USD upwards.

The more complicated the watch, the higher the price but they are relatively affordable, especially when you compare them to Richard Mille’s watches. When it comes to Franck Muller’s watches, only the highly complicated masterpieces like the Aeternitas Mega 4 typically demand some more cash beyond the two million USD mark.

Is Richard Mille and Franck Muller the same

No, but the two brands have a lot in common. Both Richard Mille and Franck Muller show off high-tech watches with amazing designs and movements that are typically out of this world. The unique tonneau-shaped watches with large numbers and indices were first introduced by Franck Muller and were a noble representation of the brand’s central theme and design.

Many of Muller’s first watches were quite unconventional, looked fun and quirky, and sometimes large and over the top but always fashionable and beautifully finished. Unfortunately, (as with all fashionable items), a new wave of fashion shadowed Franck Muller’s fame as similar timepieces with more technical twists and aesthetical appeal hit the watch market.

Guess the major competitor? Richard Mille! With his profound technical experience and progressive mindset, Richard Mille quickly gained global acceptance with the creation of revolutionary timepieces, high-profile endorsements, and marketing ingenuity.

Resale Value And Warranty

To people with an eye on investment, good resale value is critical in purchasing any watch especially when it’s a watch that costs tens of thousands of dollars. It’s very rational to ensure that your purchase will appreciate over time.

The good news is it is safe to purchase a Franck Muller or Richard Mille timepiece because both brands have a strong reputation for quality and craftsmanship. Both brands make high-end jewelry with some of the finest materials available, including gold, diamond, titanium, and platinum.

Richard Mille watches hold their value well but not fantastically because they are rare and limited and unless you are in the inner circle of the billionaires club, selling them off when you’re ready might take a lot of time especially since the target market is niche.

The brand also offers a 3-year warranty plus an extra two years of free servicing which depends on if the watch owner had his watch adequately serviced within the first three-year warranty. Meanwhile, Franck Muller provides every owner with free services for their watch within the first two years of purchase.

Franck Muller Vanguard Vs Richard Mille

Though Franck Muller’s success has slowed a bit, all Its watches have remained over the top and complicated, especially the watches found in the Vanguard collection. The Franck Muller’s Vanguard collection sails in a sporty direction just like Richard Mille’s watches and showcases some of the Brand’s most extraordinary and groundbreaking timepieces. An obvious similarity shared by both watches is the resin-filled channel along the sides of the case and the tonneau shape.

The finishing on the Vanguard timepieces is done to the highest possible standard and exudes sporting elegance but comes in a flexible design that can easily span the gulf between the beachside resort, boardroom, and anywhere in-between but Richard Mille’s watch concept of combining the worlds of cars, aeronautics and sailing with the high-tech aspects of innovation, resistant materials and accuracy to produce stunning timepieces makes us put the best collection of Franck Muller (namely the Vanguard), head to head with Richard Mille.

When it comes to prices, you’ll see that prices for Franck Muller Vanguard timepieces cover a relatively wide spectrum. Starting prices begin from around 3,800 USD to over 100,000 USD depending on the material, watch movement, and added jewels and this makes it relatively affordable when compared to Richard Mille’s watches.

Let’s take a look at watches from the Vanguard collection and Richard Mille that both give a decent clear look at the in-house crafted mechanics within and put the tourbillon beautifully on display for a result that is both stunning and contemporary.

Vanguard V 45 Gravity

Wearing a Franck Muller watch is a statement in itself so fall in line if you’re tired of having your watch disappear with your outfit. Franck Muller makes two editions of the ref. V 45 T GR CS SQT BR (NR), both of which are stunning and recognizable, thanks to their intricately skeletonized dials that offer a beautiful view of the bold manual caliber and its tourbillon including the delicate finishing.

The tourbillon dominates the dial’s lower half, while the upper half features a set of conventional hour and minute hands. Among other features, what stands out is the tourbillon’s cage. Depending on the model, the cage comes coated with either red or blue lacquer.

Other profound accents worthy of being mentioned are the hands, minute scale, and of course the “Frank Muller” and “Gravity” that have been inscribed at 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively. The two editions released in the ref. V 45 T GR CS SQT BR (NR), is water-resistant to 30 m (3 bar, 98 ft).

Concerning the case, the Gravity comes with a sapphire crystal case back that allows the wearer to observe the movement from both above and below. Its titanium case has a matte black PVD coating. A black alligator leather strap with matching red or blue decorative stitching keeps this timepiece securely on the wrist. The starting price for this model is around 95,000 USD on Chrono24.

Pros	Cons
Modern and futuristic design that stands out even to the untrained eye	Difficult to service
Healthy wrist presence
Nice sized thickness
Wears quite comfortably
Sleek, sporty, rugged style in a subtle black and yellow colorway
Affordable luxury watch
Comes with a warranty of up to two years

Richard Mille

RM 002 and RM 003

Released in 2001, the RM 002 comes with a distinctive barrel-shaped case that measures 45 x 38.5 mm and can be obtained in rose or white gold. Just like the Vanguard V 45 Gravity, a sapphire crystal offers an unimpeded view of the skeletonized movement below. The manual in-house caliber features a power reserve indicator at 10:30 and a torque indicator between 1 and 2 o’clock. A tourbillon spins at 6 o’clock to the left of a function selector while the dome-shaped sapphire crystal functions as a dial.

This display lets you know what mode the crown is in. “W” stands for winding, “H” represents hands (), and “N” for neutral indicates that the watch is ticking normally. When the display mode reads H, you can set the time yourself. You can also switch between modes using a button integrated into the crown.

The RM 002 comes in two versions namely the RM 002-V1 and the RM 002-V2. The former uses a plate made of grade 5 titanium while the latter has a plate made of carbon. Everything else is pretty much the same so the only difference is the material used for the base plate. RM 003 builds on the functionality of RM 002 by adding a second-time zone and is a great option for frequent fliers.

It does this via a sapphire crystal disc with printed black numerals. The numbers scroll over a small white insert at 3 o’clock, thus showing the time in another part of the world. You can reset this display using a button on the left side of the case at 9 o’clock.

Pros	Cons
Beautiful and interactive visual watch	Expensive
Complex timepiece designed for everyday use and any situation	Unavailable
The level of finishing and use of space is undoubtedly impressive
Extremely durable and lightweight

Frequently Asked Questions

Why Are Richard Mille Watches So Expensive?

Richard Mille Watches are expensive because of the complexity of design, innovative technology, and the image and reputation that they bear.

Are Franck Muller watches water-resistant?

Yes. Franck Muller watches are water-resistant up to 30 meters (3 bar, 98 ft). This might seem a bit less than typical for a sports watch but all their watches are of high quality.

15 BEST Chronograph Watches Under $5,000 (Mechanical Marvel)

Anne Bensons

December 1, 2022

Chronograph watches were first applied in the recording of elapsed time during horse races and since then they have established themselves as a versatile addition to the field of timekeeping. It all began two hundred years ago when French watchmaker, Louis Moinet, invented the first modern Chronograph for astronomers to track the movements of stars and planets.

His amazing tech invention was accurate to within 1/60th of a second and was celebrated until 1821 when Louis XVIII commissioned Nicolas Rieussec to invent a device for timing his horses. Nicolas’s chronograph was accurate to within a fifth of a second and became the first-ever commercialised chronograph. Think of a chronograph watch as a stopwatch that can be ‘activated’ and stopped at your whim.

What Makes a Chronograph Watch?

Not just any timepiece can call itself a chronograph. Wondering what’s special about chronograph watches?? Well, apart from chronograph watches being one of the most well-crafted mechanical fineries used in calculating precise timing, they are compact and downright fantastic. Many chronograph watches can display the time and often the date as well, can calculate your average speed, measure your heart rate, and keep track of two events at the same time.

A lot of them come with two or three subdials that display the hours, minutes, and seconds. So whether you are on a search for an iconic watch or you’re just a collector looking for your first watch, a chronograph watch is a must-have for any watch collector – thanks to its unique features and details!

Here Are A Few Things You Should Know Before Purchasing A Chronograph Watch.

Gather here if you’re a sports fiend with an interest in horology and about to purchase your first chronograph watch. Gone are the days when getting a watch simply because it is ‘cool looking’ was enough. Especially when it’s a tool watch, such as a chronograph timepiece, When it comes to purchasing chronograph watches, there’s always the right one out there for you but take into consideration the following;

Mechanical Or Quartz?

Mechanical watches are designed to run without a battery, while quartz watches require a battery. Often mechanical watches have more interesting mechanisms on their chronograph features and can go on for many years without needing a change but Quartz watches are more affordable.

Legibility

A chronograph watch with an easy-to-read display of elapsed time will offer more value and should be sought for – especially since most manufacturers ditch this feature for the sake of stylish designs.

Functionality

Beyond the aesthetic appeal, chronographs are known for offering many practical uses. With your chronograph, you could tell the distance to certain events, determine the shortest commuting route, track cooking times, parking meters, and of course time races. Tachymeters are usually featured on chronograph watches and are used to measure the speed traveled over a fixed period.

A tachymeter scale function is either fixed to the case or comes as part of the rotating bezel and the most important aspect of it is its accuracy. inspired by the thrill and glamour of motorsport. So if you’re an avid racer, you can use the tachymeter function on your chronograph to measure vehicle speeds accurately, which is considered the most accurate device for measuring time.

And as we creep into the end of the year, we thought it would be only right to offer you 15 of the best chronographs under $5k – enjoy!

In no particular order;

1. Longines Spirit Pioneer Titanium Chronograph

The Longlines Spirit collection takes inspiration from its legacy in aviation and this new ultra-bright and ultra-light elegant piece pays homage to the glory days of aviation while including present-day aesthetics.

As with all other watches in the Spirit collection, this new Longines Spirit Pioneer Edition is powered by a high-quality automatic caliber produced by ETA exclusively for Longines, but unlike other existing Spirit chronograph watches, this lightweight piece offers a sporty take and comes in a black synthetic strap in addition to neon green stitches that corresponds with the visible matt black dial’s hands and Arabic numerals.

A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, with several layers of anti-reflective coating on both sides, gives it a luxurious aesthetic and enhances its modern personality. The L688.4 movement, a COSC-certified chronometer, is compact and refined — a self-winding mechanical marvel with an impressive power reserve of 66 hours and 28,800 vibrations per hour. All are contained in this 42mm stainless-steel case, which is an elegant reinvention of the legendary watch.

Quick Facts

Reference: L3.829.1.53.2 – L38291532
Caliber: L688.4
Movement: Automatic
Dimension: 42.00 mm
Lug distance: 22 mm
Thickness: 16.50 mm
Dial Color: Black matt
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Power reserve: 66-hour power reserve
Weight: 92.8 g
Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
Strap type: Calf leather
Screw Down Crown: Yes
Price: $3,900.00

2. Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto Chrono

Powered by the H-31 automatic movement, the Chrono-Matic 50 features a rather unique (and kind of cool) sporty stance with an ultra-elegant reverse panda dial vibe. The vintage-tinged timepiece is a rugged modern reworking of a 1968 signature timepiece that offers a sporty but classic look.

The bold red color accents scream legibility, while the comfortable 100m water resistance makes it perfect for the demands of the sportiest of models, relatively spartan for a chronograph watch. Instead of three subdials, there are two that blend seamlessly with the design. This watch relies on the H-31 powerful automatic chronograph movement that offers an impressive 60-hour power reserve.

Quick Facts

Reference: H51616731
Caliber: H-31
Collection: American Classic
Movement: Automatic
Case size: 48.5mm x 51.50mm
Dial Color: Black
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Lug width: 22mm
Power reserve: 60-hour power reserve
Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
Strap type: Calf leather
Screw Down Crown: Yes
Price: $2,245 for the bracelet, $2,045 for leather

3. Seiko Presage SRQ023

Seiko is a brand known to blend technology with superior craftsmanship and design. So if you need an elegant chronograph watch but aren’t ready to stretch your budget to the Speedmaster level, this one comes in highly recommended.

The watch is powered by a Seiko Caliber 8R48, a hand-wound movement with a 45-hour power reserve and a 28,800 vph. The heart of this timepiece comes encased in a 42 mm stainless steel case with a 100 meter water depth rating, which means you can conveniently swim with it but it’s not suitable for diving. The dial is simple, legible, and protected by a sapphire crystal.

Quick Facts

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Chronograph, and Date
Caliber: 8R48
Movement: Automatic.
Case size: 42mm x 49.5mm
Dial Color: White
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Power reserve: 45-hour power reserve
Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
Price: $2,400

4. Longines Avigation BigEye

An extremely elegant Swiss-made Longines chronograph wristwatch for gents that has all the attributes of luxury sports with a gorgeous 27-jewel movement. The supple leather band enhances a vintage-inspired look that fits well on the wrist. Speaking of the dial, it’s legible and features a tachymeter scale on the bezel. Inside is a self-winding mechanical movement that beats at 28,800 vph, with a power reserve of approximately 66 hours.

With the Longlines pattern design on the oscillating bridge, there’s no mistaking who powered this reliable movement. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with several layers of anti-reflective coating on the underside lends this timepiece an additional high visual quality. This new model also comes with a 5-year warranty

Quick Facts

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Chronograph, and Date
Caliber: L688
Movement: Automatic.
Case size: 42mm x 49.5mm
Dimension: Ø 41.00 mm
Thickness: 14.50 mm
Dial Color: Petroleum
Case Material: Stainless steel
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Power reserve: 54-hour power reserve
Water Resistance : 3 bar (30m)
Price: US$2,825.

5. TISSOT HERITAGE 1973

Possibly the best value-for-money chronograph sports watch on the market, the Tissot Heritage 1973 bears the emblematic design of the 1970s and has been praised by reviewers universally for its elegant finishing and low price point.

This elegant sports watch comes in a 43mm stainless steel case with domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which means it does wear very comfortably and follows the distinguished Heritage’s sleek, tonneau shape with a very legible chronograph dial that looks great on the bracelet.

It’s a bit big at 125g so if you don’t mind a bit of extra thickness and prefer a watch with a bit of heft, this won’t be a bad option. Inside, the ETA A05.H31, a modified Valjoux 775 provides this timepiece with an extended 60-hour power reserve.

Quick Facts

Brand: Tissot
Model: Heritage
Functions: Central 60-second chronograph hand, 30 minutes and 60 seconds counters, 12 hours.
Caliber: A05.H31
Movement: Swiss Tissot automatic
Case size: 43mm
Dial Color: Silver
Case Material: Stainless steel
Case shape: Tonneau (shape)
Strap color: Brown
Crystal: Sapphire
Power reserve: 60-hour power reserve
Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
Price: US$2,100

6. KHAKI AVIATION PIONEER MECHANICAL CHRONO

Distinctive, daring, and definitely an attention-grabber, the Khaki aviation pioneer mechanical Chrono alludes to a vintage military aviation design and is inspired by the iconic models which were created for the British Royal Air Force in the 1970s. This elegant timepiece is powered by the incredible H-51-Si is a mechanical chronograph movement with 60 hours of power reserve. It also features a balance spring made from an anti-magnetic silicon material.

Quick Facts

Reference: H76409530
Functions: Chronograph and Date
Caliber: H-51-Si mechanical chronograph movement
Movement: Hand-winding.
Case size: 40mm
Dial Color: Black
Strap: Brown calf leather
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Power reserve: 60-hour power reserve
Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
Price: $2,045.

7. TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16

Tag Heuer, the trailblazer watch brand in horological content, quality, and prestige presents this sleek, and elegant timepiece in a 41mm case that is nicely shaped, with sharp lugs and conspicuous pump pushers. Although the price is getting quite thin in the < $5,000 category on Tag Heuer’s website, I couldn’t resist the urge to include it here because of its reliable functionality and special features – like the tachymeter scale, inspired by the thrill and glamour of motorsport, which makes it more accurate than most.

It is known that TAG Heuer’s most famous collection is the Carrera and the execution of several components of this timepiece proves very impressive and does not disappoint with a design that hearkens back to the collection’s earliest racing roots. The Carrera Calibre 16 is water-resistant to 100 meters.

Quick Facts

Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph
Functions: Chronograph and Date
Caliber: Calibre 16
Movement: Automatic.
Case size: 41mm
Dial color Black
Strap: Black leather strap with contrasting red stitching.
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Power reserve: 42-hour power reserve
Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
Price: $5,000

8. Oris Divers Sixty Five Chronograph

If you’re searching for a chronograph watch that radiates a sporty, modern charm then the Oris Divers Sixty Five With a passion for precision mechanics, Oris powers this chronograph watch with automatic movement.

The layout is just crisp and easy to read, while the trim on the bezel is well finished with a gilt application over a black dial, the elegant steel elements in addition to the brown vintage leather strap and blue stitches exude a stylish harmony that commands attention from every watch collector. This watch also sports a black dial and offers water resistance up to 100 meters.

Quick Facts

Brand: Oris
Model: Divers Sixty Five
Reference: 01 771 7744 4354-07 5 21 45
Functions: Chronograph and Date
Caliber: Oris 771 (Sellita SW510 base)
Movement: Automatic.
Dimensions: 43mm
Dial Color: Black
Case Material: Stainless steel/bronze bezel
Crystal: Sapphire
Power reserve: 48-hour power reserve
Strap/bracelet: Leather or rivet bracelet
Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
Price: $4,000 (strap), $4,250 (bracelet)

9. Farer Chrono-Classic Swann

Farer Chrono-Classic Swann bridges a sporty stance with vibes from the 60s in this vintage classic timepiece. The magenta sunray dials with duck egg blue markings pay tribute to Olympic champion, Sidney Swann who took gold in Men’s Eight Rowing in 1912, and meshes well with the smaller vintage-style proportions that it comes with, giving it an overall plush look.

A sapphire domed crystal means it is less prone to damage, making it an excellent choice for outdoor enthusiasts. The classic style Chrono has soft-edged button pushers, perfect dimensions, and is fitted with Swiss-made Dubois Dépraz DD2022 caliber.

Quick facts

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph.
Caliber: Dubois Dépraz DD2022
Movement: Automatic, 59 Jewels
Case size: 39mm x 12mm
Dial: Magenta sunray adonized dial
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Power reserve: 43-hour power reserve
Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
Strap: Blue (Meredith/Jackson) or purple (Swann) leather with stainless steel buckle fastening.
Price: $2,598.29USD

10. Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture

Inspired by 1930’s Flyback Chronographs, The Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture came with a desire to go beyond a regular chronograph configuration. It was first released at Baselworld in 2017, and is equipped with an FC-760 automatic manufacture movement, an in-house movement with 32 jewels.

The 42 mm stainless steel case is comfortable on the wrist Inspired by the Flyback chronographs of 1930, it features a time-counting mechanism that can be stopped and reset at the push of a button. Now available in two new colorways (blue and chocolate). This modern interpretation of the classic 1930s chronographs features a time-counting mechanism that can be stopped and reset at the push of a button.

Quick facts

Reference: FC-760V4H4
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph.
Caliber: FC-760
Movement: Automatic, 32 Jewels
Case size: 42 mm
Dial: Silver
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Power reserve: 38-hour power reserve
Water Resistance: 5 bar (50m)
Strap: Alligator.
Price: $4,295 (Blue) and $4,595 (Chocolate)

11. Massena LAB Uni-Racer

The Massena LAB Uni-Racer, a faithful replica of the Universal Geneve Big Eye is an attestation to Massena LAB’s art of defying the rules when it comes to bringing back the form and function of the chronographs.

The limited Massena Lab Uni-Racer, now available in three new colorways, is a modern illustration of the cult classic, but with a “Big Eye” thanks to its oversized 30-minute sub-counter and its smaller seconds sub-dial. The case measures 39mm in diameter and 13mm in height, contrary to the original model’s 36mm case.

An outstanding element of vintage Universal Genève watches has always been their bold hands, and the Uni-Compax is no exception to the rule, with modern dauphine hands for the hours and minutes, and straight luminous batons for the sub-counters.

Inside a solid steel case back, the limited Massena Lab Uni-Racer is powered by the Uni-Racer UR-001. A well-known, and reliable Sellita SW-510 and movement, that offers a comfortable 58h power reserve and runs at a 4 Hz frequency.

Quick facts

Functions: Hours, minutes, with small seconds, Chronograph with central minute counter and 30-minute subdial
Caliber: SW510 M
Movement: Hand Wound, 23 jewels, 28,800 vibrations/hours
Case size: 39mm x 13mm
Dial: Black Dial with silver register
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Dome acrylic crystal
Power reserve: 58-hour power reserve
Water Resistance: 5 bar (50m)
Bracelet: Dove grey strap with signature stainless steel tang buckle.
Price: $3,495USD

12. MIDO Multifort Patrimony Chronograph

Together with Tissot, Hamilton, or Rado, Mido is one of the brands that play on the watch world’s accessible luxury timepieces. This exceptional watch is a tribute to the MIDO’s Multichrono. An iconic chronograph from the 1930s.

To meet contemporary standards, it is offered in a 42mm diameter case, which means it will sit comfortably on most wrists, with tapered lugs, a very thin bezel, and a sapphire crystal on top to present the retro looks of a vintage watch.

The sunray-brushed blue dial plays beautifully with light and is all about legibility. Equipped with a tachymeter scale, two counters add to offer it a more balanced and uncluttered look. At the heart of this chronograph, the Caliber 60 automatic movement offers a power reserve of up to 60 hours.

Quick facts

Item: Mido Men’s Watch
Model: M040.427.36.042.00
Collection: Multifort Patrimony
Case: Rose Gold PVD Stainless Steel
Caliber: Mido Caliber 60 (Base ETA A05.H31)
Movement: Automatic
Case size: 42 mm
Dial: Blue
Dial Features: Date Display / Luminous Hands / Chronograph / Tachymeter / Arabic Numerals
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
Power reserve: 60-hour power reserve
Water Resistance: 5 bar (50m)
Bracelet: Brown Leather Strap
Price: $2,200USD

13. Sinn 103 St Pilot Chronograph Automatic Watch – Black Dial – Solid Bracelet

Sinn watches are renowned for outstanding technical refinements such as AR Dehumidifying and Tegiment technology, lubricant-free escapement, and even titanium cases. 103 St is distinctively Sinn with a classical and simple design that bears roots dating back to Sinn’s early history of pilot chronograph making.

This elegant timepiece features a matte black dial, three subdials for continuous seconds, a date/day display, and luminous coated hands and indices making legibility in the dark a walk in the park! Oh – and that 41mm sizing is a real sweet spot that is all about endurance and functionality.

Inside, the reliable Concepto C99001 self-winding movement, which is anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309, powers this watch. With a chronograph, pilot’s bezel with a luminous key mark, day-date indicator, and low-pressure resistance to 200 meters, this is a watch built to be a versatile and trustworthy daily wearer.

Quick facts

Functions: Hours, minutes, with small seconds, Chronograph with central minute counter and 30-minute subdial
Caliber: Concepto C99001 (German)
Movement: Automatic
Case size: 41mm
Watch Thickness: 15.5mm
Dial: Matte black dial protected by shock-resistant acrylic glass.
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Acrylic Crysta
Power reserve: 58-hour power reserve
Weight: 74 grams
Water Resistance: 20 bar (200m)
Bracelet: Stainless steel
Price: $2,486.05USD

14. Longines Master Calendar Chronograph

At $3,325, Longines Master Calendar Chronograph represents one of the greatest values in watchmaking. First launched in 2005 and inspired by Longines’ desire to continue producing long-lasting iconic luxury timepieces, the Longines Master Collection of chronographs impeccably encapsulates the outstanding engineering and classic aesthetics for which Longlines is renowned.

For starters, the blue steel hands are without many reflective surfaces on the dial, which are designed to mimic the look of a guilloche-engraved dial and offer a high amount of legibility. Inside, the Swiss-made ETA Valjoux 775, modified visually and technically with the inclusion of a column-wheel transmission system to become Longines caliber L687, provides a 48-hour power reserve.

This timepiece might not be a sports watch at only 30 meters of water resistance, but it is designed with top-notch materials and is durable enough to serve as a daily-wear timepiece.

Quick facts

Brand: Longines
Model: Master Collection reference L2.673.4.78.3
Functions: Chronograph, Month, Date, Day, GMT, Moonphase, Hours, Minutes, Second
Caliber: Longines Calibre L678m
Movement: Automatic
Case size: 40mm
Watch Thickness: 14mm
Dial Color: Blue
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Crystal: Scratch Resistant Sapphire Crystal
Power reserve: 48-hour power reserve
Water Resistance : 3 bar (30m)
Price: $3,325

15. Kurono Chronograph 2

Last but not least, we have this cool, vintage-inspired chronograph, launched in 2021 by Kurono, the accessible sub-brand of watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. The Chronograph 2 was a smash hit when it dropped, selling out in less than five minutes. Kurono’s 38mm column-wheel chronograph timepiece effortlessly combines the historic appeal of a true icon with the sophistication of a contemporary timepiece.

The dial features contrasting layers of gloss black with a base of dark brown accentuated with a copper tachymeter and silver chronograph scale, creating a unique personality that makes it stand out from the crowd.

Inside, a solid Seiko caliber NE86 automatic movement keeps the price accessible so if you’re in the market for an exquisite chronograph but aren’t willing to stretch your budget to the Speedmaster level, Kurono has delivered a terrific alternative that is more than just a piece of mechanical finery for precise timing.

Quick facts

Brand: Kurono
Model: Chronograph 2
Functions: Chronograph, date window
Caliber: Seiko caliber NE86
Movement: Automatic
Case size: 38mm
Watch Thickness: 13.9mm
Dial Color: Black
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
Power reserve: 45-hour power reserve
Water Resistance : 3 bar (30m)
Price: $3,993USD

Author: Anne Bensons

How to Identify a Vintage Omega Watch (AVOID These Traps!)

Anne Bensons

February 16, 2023

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Our Top 3 Picks

Omega

Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph 310.30.42.50.01.001

Omega

Seamaster Ploprof 1200m Black Dial

Omega

Constellation Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 29 mm 131.53.29.20.99.001

What Exactly Is Vintage?

Vintage vs Antique Watches

The Appeal Of The Vintage Watch Market

Potential Traps To Be Avoided When Shopping For Vintage Watches

Vintage Omega Watches

1. Omega Speedmaster Professional

2. Omega Seamaster Ploprof

3. Omega Marine

4. Omega Constellation

How To Identify Vintage Omega Watches

Serial Number

The Dial and Hands

Caliber

Weight

Sound

Summary

Jomashop vs. Watchmaxx (Brands, Service, Reliability, & More!)

Anne Bensons

February 16, 2023

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What Is A Gray Market Dealer?

Where Do Grey Market Dealers Get Their Watches From?

Luxury Brands’ Response To The Gray Market Watch Industry

Should You Buy Watches From Gray Market Dealers?

Advantages

Availability

Convenience

Price Point

Disadvantages

Warranty And Resale Value

Authenticity And Product Knowledge

Quality Repairs

Jomashop Vs Watchmaxx: Which is Best for You?

Brand Selection

Customer Service

Shipping and Return policy

Reputation

Reliability

Jomashop Pros

Jomashop Cons

WatchMaxx Pros

WatchMaxx Cons

A Necessary Evil

Your ULTIMATE Guide to Seiko SKX Series (Answering All FAQs!)

Anne Bensons

February 15, 2023

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Our Top 3 Picks

Seiko Prospex

SRPB51

Seiko 5 Sports

SRPD91

Seiko Prospex

SRPB51

What Is the Seiko SKX?

What Makes the Seiko SKX So Iconic?

1. The Movement

2. The Accessible Price Point

3. The Case and Dial

Is the Seiko SKX Discontinued?

Should You Buy a New or Pre-owned SKX?

Seiko SKX References & Current Prices

Seiko SKX007

Seiko SKX009

Seiko SKX013

Seiko SKX011

Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) Seiko SKX

Current Seiko SKX Prices