Author: Anne Bensons

We at Exquisite Timepieces see hundreds of watches with exceptional dials each year. Even though we all have different preferences regarding the ones we most admire, an enamel dial is one feature that gets us hot under the collar. Created by skillful artisans, these dials feature a forgotten artistic technique that conjures mesmerizing images of serenity.

In contrast to industrially manufactured dials, enamel dials have a distinctive twist of elegance with an understated vibrant flair. They are also known to maintain their radiance forever, which heightens their aesthetic appeal.

Of all the decorative techniques bequeathed to watches (engravings, lacquering, etc.), the most laborious is enameling. Reserved for only the most exquisite metiers d’art pieces, each enamel dial is very time-consuming and can take several days to produce with a very high failure rate.

Claude-Eric, director of Donzé Cadrans, even told the New York Times that up to 75 percent of its enamel dials are abandoned due to defects. Despite the difficulties tied with the making of enamel dials, they are increasingly getting popular for all the right reasons.

Their complexity, captivating details, and magical decorations have revived an intense desire in the hearts of many collectors. From Jaquet Droz to anOrdain, read on to discover the most refined, desirable, and alluring enamel dials in the watch world.

About Enamel Dial Watches

The ancient technique of creating an enamel dial lies somewhere between art, science, and alchemy. Strongly associated with jewelry and gold since antiquity, the first records of enameling have been traced back to some Greek sculptures dated 600 – 501 BC. 

The technique of enameling itself was mastered only by a handful of craftsmen. This ancient skill has been passed down over the years from master to apprentice, and much of its apprehension remains with only a small group of artisans.

As with other special skills found in the horological world, a shroud of mystery surrounds the beginnings of the use of enamel dials in watches. However, the first instances date back to the 17th century with the advent of pocket watches.

The distinct aesthetic element of each enamel dial makes them popular among watch aficionados because each one cannot be replicated synthetically. Enameling involves the application of a fine coat of ground glass to the base of the dial (often a metal disc), which is then heated to ultra-high temperatures.

During firing, a fusion between the ground-up enamel and the metal base occurs, creating a mesmerizing dial with a radiant gleam. Given the allure and elegance of enamel worked dials, they have become exceedingly desirable by collectors, even on the secondary market.

Should You Buy an Enamel Dial Watch?

Enamel making is one of the most recognizable crafts in the world of Horology, and purchasing a timepiece with an enamel dial can never be a mistake. Given the seductiveness and profound value of these dials, it is not entirely surprising that watch enthusiasts have revived an ever-increasing interest in them.

One of the reasons why watches with enamel dials are so compelling is the fact that there are zero allowances for mistakes. That said, collectors with a knack for exceptional watches that bridge the gap between haute horology and art would find these timepieces particularly spellbinding.

Apart from displaying the time legibly, enamel dial watches provide a refined accent to formal dress styles. Whether they look better in a specific work environment is subjective, but they will certainly elevate your game anytime, any day.

Enameling Techniques

Grand Feu

Grand Feu means “great fire” in French. Probably the most commonly used technique in making enamel dials, the process involves coating a metal disc with enamel and firing it up at temperatures of 800°C – 900°C. The process is repeated severally to achieve the desired texture, color (usually white, beige, or opaque), and motif.

Guilloché and Flinqué Enamel

A “Guilloché” dial involves a decorative technique where straight, curved, or broken lines are engraved into a dial to create intricate patterns. Guilloché and flinqué enamel dials feature a transparent enamel that beautifully showcases the pattern below.

Champlevé Enamel

Camplevé enameling technique is an ancient art mostly used in gold smithery to decorate metal items. The word ‘Champlevé’ means “raised field”, and the process requires the joint effort of an expert engraver and enamel artist. Spaces or three-dimensional cells are carved into the surface of a metal disc. An enameller then fills the cavities with vitreous enamel and fires it briefly at several hundred degrees.

Cloisoné Enamel

Cloison means “partition” in French, so in the ”Cloisonné” method of enameling, partitions are created on the dial using a gold wire to place the enamel with utmost precision. The technique, usually used in gold jewelry, produces a polished surface with a smooth finish.

20 Best Enamel Dial Watches

Breguet Classique 5177 “Grand Feu” Blue Enamel (Ref. 5177BB/2Y/9V6)

Inspired by the pocket watches from the brand in the 19th century, the Breguet Classique 5177 “Grand Feu” Blue Enamel watch is the ultimate dress watch of prestige. In lieu of the conventional enamel colors (white or black), the resplendent dial is dark blue, sleek, and brilliant. 

The 18k white gold case measures 38mm in diameter and has a thickness of 8mm with long elegant lugs that ensures it sits a little wider than its measurement suggests. 

The vitreous enamel dial is adorned with Breguet’s signature numerals, while the minute markers are star-shaped. The hour and minute hands have been finished in rhodium-plated steel and feature the usual ‘Moon Tip Watch hands’ that Breguet first introduced in the 1780s. 

With the oversized silvered numerals, the conservative dress watch is given a mirthful personality that is extraordinary and second to none. An unconventionally shaped aperture displays the date at 3 o’clock without disrupting the dial’s symmetry, creating a legible and serene look.

It is powered by the sensational Calibre 777Q with 243 parts and 26 jewels that offer a power reserve of approximately 55 hours when the watch is fully wound.

Omega DeVille Trésor (ref. 432.53.40.21.03.001)

As one would anticipate from a marque with an innovative heritage, the execution of the DeVille Trésor is first class. Launched by OMEGA in 1949, the slim Trésor line was distinguished by its notable 30mm Calibre. But with the passing decades, the brand has gotten more technologically advanced, and this stunning timepiece is an accolade for its craftsmanship. 

The classic gents’ line now has watches with manual-winding Master Chronometer movements and come in stainless steel or 18K gold cases that measure 40mm in diameter. The ref. 432.53.40.21.03.001 is particularly alluring because it features a domed blue enamel dial that gives it a refined, elegant look. 

The vitreous, or Grand Feu enamel dial, has undergone an expert finishing, so it now has an avant-garde and somewhat extravagant appearance. Speaking of extravagance, the color of the date disc at 6 o’clock corresponds to that of the dial, and the hands, as well as the hour markers, have all been crafted from 18-carat white gold.

According to the brand, the logo and wording on the dial have been embellished by enamel prints through a ‘Petit Feu’ technique giving the timepiece an overall magnificent look. It is powered by the cal. 8929 with a magnetism resistance of over 15,000 Gauss and a power reserve of 72 hours.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5078G-010)

Introduced at Baselworld in 2017, the Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5078G-010) is a true connoisseur’s watch. Featuring complications like timing, chiming, and a perpetual calendar, the classic dress watch comes in a white gold case that measures 38mm in diameter.

With a height of 10.18mm, the timepiece is well-proportioned and will sit snugly on various medium-sized wrists. The brilliant black enamel dial with harmonious arabesque patterns is adorned with applied white gold markers that compliment the white gold case.

The firing at ultra-high temperatures has melted the enamel into a smooth consistency that is unique to this technique alone. The alluring arabesque patterns consist of a subtle contrast of matt and polished surfaces that offers a unique effect only an enamel dial can produce.

The overall quality of the dial is further illustrated by how the slender leaf-shaped hands reflect flawlessly on its surface. Discreet lozenge-shaped applied hour markers grace the face of the dial and offer excellent legibility. At the same time, a sub-dial at 6 o’clock turns pleasantly without disrupting the dial’s symmetry.

Beating at the watch’s heart at a frequency of 3 Hz is the caliber R 27 PS, a self-winding movement with 342 parts that features an exquisitely decorated mini rotor in 22K gold. Striking the hours, quarters, and minutes with a distinct tone on demand are two classic cathedral gongs.

The wearer can activate the gongs by using a slide piece at the left flank of the case. The strap is dark brown alligator leather with square scales fitted with an 18k white gold fold-over clasp.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon Enamel (Ref. Q1368480)

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a brand that knows how to release breathtaking timepieces. Coming in a limited edition of 100 pieces, the white gold case of the Ultra Thin Moon Enamel watch measures 39mm in diameter and is 10.04mm thick.

The classic watch with a contemporary appeal features a guilloché-enamel dial that bestows profound depth to the face of the watch.  A translucent enamel has been applied over the guilloché engraving on the dial in a process known as flinqué, giving off a very stunning effect.

The guilloché sunray pattern has fine, straight lines running from the center to the peripherals of the dial. The vivid midnight blue color of the transparent enamel becomes highly pronounced and sparkles when it hits the light just right.

The attention-grabbing watch is adorned with applied hour markers that are a little thinner and elongated than those featured in other Master Ultra Thin variants. A disc of mirror-polished white gold makes the moon shine brightly at 6 o’clock against the blue starry sky.

The date is displayed neatly on a ring framing the moon phase aperture, and this ring has been delicately engraved. The dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands, in white gold, sweep against the textured background discreetly, adding radiance and style to the stunning dial.

The watch is powered by the robust Caliber 925/2. Unlike the regular Caliber 925/1 fitted into the Ultra Thin Moon collection watches, this movement now provides an impressive power reserve of 70 hours (from 43 hours). The watch comes mounted on a black alligator leather strap and has a water-resistant rating of 50 meters.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 (ref. 15210BC.OO.A321CR.99)

Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of the its sponsorship of Bolshoi Theatre. The theater, which is in Moscow, is the parent organization of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet.

The Code 11.59 featured two outstanding variants; a minute repeater and a flying tourbillon that both came with smoked enamel dials. The ref. 15210BC.OO.A321CR.99 measures 41mm across and is 10.7mm thick but wears a little larger than the measurements suggest, thanks to the skeletonized lugs attached only to the bezel.

The compelling blue dial is a breathtaking piece of craftsmanship. The enamel dial is smoked and conjures all kinds of emotions with its dusky effect as it graduates from a solid blue hue in the center to a darker rim. A slightly denser enamel coating at the edges of the dial transitions smoothly to the black lacquered flange for the minute numerals.

Much attention has been given to the execution of the dial as very few subtle imperfections can be noticed, unlike many other enamel dials. A date display lies discreetly between 4 and 5 o’clock and has been well integrated into the dial. The applied hour markers are in white gold, while the minute track comes in enamel print.

A sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides protects the dial. The watch is powered by the caliber 4302, a high-end movement with a combination of machine and hand-applied finishes. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of 70 hours.

Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow Enamel Dial (ref. 3657.20.31)

The Broad Arrow Enamel Limited Series was first launched in 2002, commemorating Omega’s novel self-winding chronograph movement (the caliber 3303). The timepiece has nearly the same dimensions as in the original 1957 “Broad Arrow”, but a few differences can be noticed. 

The prominent features are still the broad arrow hour and minute hands, asymmetric crown guards, and laser-engraved tachymeter scale. The finely executed enamel dial appears practically perfect, with no visible imperfections exhibiting an outstanding quality in its execution. Bold Arabic numerals in black grace the glossy dial, which is protected by a domed sapphire crystal. 

A generous application of Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands ensures optimal legibility and makes the distinctive hands stand out in lowlight conditions. The diameter of the case is the same reasonable, yet contemporary 42mm, and it comes mounted on a black alligator strap. It is powered by the caliber 3320 and is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde (ref. 66260-3633-55B)

Famous for inventing one of the most complicated mechanical watches (Blancpain 1735), Blancpain continues to defy easy categorization by staying loyal to its tradition of innovation. The Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde is one of such technically challenging timepieces with top-notch craftsmanship.

Launched in 2018 at Baselworld, this is the first watch from Blancpain that features a flying tourbillon, jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and an enamel dial. The timepiece measures 42mm in diameter and has a height of 11mm. The enamel dial has the brand’s figure-of-eight display that offers an almost perfect symmetry, except for the funky off-center hour window. 

Despite the unconventional time display, legibility is excellent though reading the precise minute might take a while. The expensively executed glossy white look is a result of the champlevé dial. Engraving has been carried out on the discs to form the elevated borders surrounding the minute register and tourbillon aperture. 

Vitreous enamel has then been filled into the recessed areas and fired in an oven. The tourbillon rings and that of the hour window have been diamond polished, and together with the glossy enamel dial, the watch has an impressively sophisticated look. 

Oh, and the tourbillon looks like it’s floating since it’s delineated from the main dial, which is just breathtaking. The timepiece is powered by the robust in-house caliber 260 MR with an impressive 12-day power reserve.

Credor Eichi II Platinum GBLT999

Credor is a word taken from crête d’Or in French, which means “crest of gold”. Created by Seiko in 1974, the elegant dress watch line is the ethos of Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship. The Eichi II is Seiko’s idea of minimalism with exceptional execution. Everything from the case, dial, and design has been carefully crafted by elite watchmakers nestled at Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri, Japan.

The platinum case gives it a heft despite measuring just 39mm across. With a thickness of 10.3mm, the timepiece is likely to slide under a cuff but still feels solid in construction with its crocodile leather strap. The hand-made dial is emphatically devoid of adornments, but the white porcelain dial conceals a depth that is impossible to ignore.

The dial is hand-decorated and bears only heat-blued hands with tapering tips (which are strikingly elementary but also very pleasant), hour markers, and the word ‘Credor.’ The Credor Eichi II Platinum GBLT999 uses a Spring Drive movement that is water-resistant to a depth of 30 meters and has a power reserve of 60 hours.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (ref. 704.048)

A. Lange & Söhne is a globally renowned icon amongst the highly recognized top-shelf luxury watch manufacturers. “Handwerkskunst” is German for craftsmanship, and the collection promises timepieces with extraordinary artistry that have been crafted to perfection. 

Instantly recognizable on the dial are the off-centered subsidiary seconds dial, a big date window, a power reserve indicator, and an impressive view of the one-minute tourbillon. The tourbillon, nestled at the base of the 38.5mm watch at 5 o’clock, might take the spotlight, but the dial is magnificent in its simplicity.

The glossy black dial is a champlevé dial, which, as explained earlier, has first been carved out to fashion the indices and texts before being filled with vitreous enamel. Afterward, it is fired at about 800°C and polished.

The enamel dial has a striking appearance with floral engravings and a polished appearance that reflects the light just right as you move your wrist around. The hands of the watch and date surround are in white gold, and the enamel has been laid on a white gold disc (as against the general copper disc used for dials). 

Overall, the dial is superbly finished and will retain its quality for decades. Beating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour is the in-house caliber L961.3 with 378 parts and a power reserve of 72 hours.

H. Moser & Cie Heritage Tourbillon (ref. 8804-0200)

The Heritage Tourbillon from H. Moser & Cie pays tribute to the brand’s historic watches, which were technically challenging with superb craftsmanship. Expert hands that range from guilloché workers to enamellers have come together to produce this no-nonsense timepiece with an elegant display.

The 18kt white gold case is fully polished and measures a wearable 42mm by 12.2mm. The round shape of the case is reminiscent of vintage wristwatches and pocket watch features such as wire lugs and a railroad minute track give the timepiece a cool vintage look without compromising its graphics and contemporary aesthetics. 

The Grand Feu enamel dial is executed almost perfectly and looks sophisticated yet understated. The dial features a noticeable thinness that takes expertise to achieve, as many of such dials crack in the production process. It is smooth, glossy, and rich in texture with long-lasting quality and is adorned with large Roman numerals and flame-blued swallowtail hands. 

The overall design of the enamel dial is charming, original, and straightforward. The watch is powered by the in-house HMC 804 automatic caliber, which is visible through the sapphire case-back. 

anOrdain Model 2

Though a small Scottish brand, anOrdain has gained a reputation for producing understated watches with quintessential elegance. The brand established itself as a guru in manufacturing enameled dials when it released the first batch in 2018 (Model 1).

The Model 2 might be a small watch by modern standards (at 36mm in diameter and 11mm in height), but it wears slightly larger than its measurement suggests. The enamel dials come in six different colors, which are all eye-catching with profound depths. They include; Moss Green, Grey, Torr Blue, White, Purple, and Midnight Blue.

Complementing the clean dial are printed Arabic numerals. The numerals have been used only for the even numbers while matching baton markers are used for the odd numbers, and they are surrounded by a minute track.

The words “Vitreous Enamel” have been written on the 12 and 6 o’clock position, and skeletonized hour and minute hands, which are syringe-tipped, adorn the bland face of the dial. Providing a power reserve of 42 hours is the ubiquitous Sellita SW-210-1. It is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters.

Nomos Glashütte Ludwig 38 Enamel White (ref. 236)

Nomos Glashütte launched two watches in 2020 to celebrate the 175th anniversary of the brand’s watchmaking practice in Glashütte: the Ludwig 38mm white enamel dial and the Ludwig 33mm white dial. Both cases were crafted from polished stainless steel and feature a tripartite construction with thin, elongated, sloping lugs and polished surfaces highlighting the classic design. 

Although it’s not technically a vitreous enamel dial, the result of the artistry carried out on the dial is identical to that of vitreous enamel dials (hence the name). High-gloss lacquer has been used to coat the dial in several layers, and each layer has been polished before the next is applied, resulting in a breathtaking refined look with the aesthetics of a white enamel-like finish. 

The dial does not glitter, but it does shine from certain angles. If viewed from the top, straight on, it displays a certain depth that cannot be replicated easily with other materials. When viewed from the sides, the glossy surface shines brilliantly depending on exposure to light. Narrow Roman numerals with railroad minute markers give the watch a vintage look, while thermally blued needle-thin hands add contemporary elegance.

The timepiece has a recessed second sub-dial at 6 o’clock and is powered by the in-house manufactured caliber, the Alpha, a hand-wound movement that offers 43 hours of power reserve. It is splashproof (30 meters water resistance rating) and comes mounted on a horween genuine shell cordovan brown strap.

Seiko Presage Enamel Dial SPB047J1

The Presage collection from Seiko has captivated watch enthusiasts since 2016, when it became available globally. The watch line boosts elegant timepieces inspired by the brand’s tradition-steeped classic pieces powered by in-house mechanical movements.

Seiko pays special attention to the design of the dials in this collection, as most of them are crafted in striking Urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain, enamel, etc. Coming on a black Crocodile leather strap with a three-fold clasp, the SPB047J1 is one of the most beautiful pieces in the range. Since vintage inspiration is a paramount feature of the collection, the watch is styled in line with the design of the first Seiko Laurel timepiece from 1913.

The hand-made white enamel dial features a warm and soft sheen with elegant deep blue hands and classical Roman indexes. Many of the enamel dials in the Presage collection feature his craftsmanship, and all pay tribute to the ancestral savoir-faire techniques of the brand.

Though the dial is not 100% faultless because of manual interventions, the handmade glossy look of the polished surface gives it a depth and texture that differentiates it from other standard painted/treated dials. 

The SPB047J1 is a pretty formal timepiece with a steel case that measures 40.5mm across, a thickness of 12.4mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 47.8mm. It is powered by the Calibre 6R25, a mid-range, in-house automatic movement by Seiko with a stop second-hand function, date display, and 23 jewels. 

Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier 39 Flying Tourbillon (ref. W6920105)

Presented with a brilliant blue flinqué enamel dial, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon is a nod to the brand’s flair for sophisticated-looking watches. The Ballon Bleu collection, which was launched in 2007, has grown to enchant lovers of exquisite timepieces, making it one of Cartier’s all-time bestsellers.

The flinqué enamel dial here is different in that it combines two ancient dial-making techniques; guilloché and enameling. The metal disc for the base has first been patterned with guilloche and then coated with colored enamel.

Through high-temperature firing, the enamel covering becomes fixated with the metallic dial underneath, and the arduous process is repeated severally to obtain a glossy, brilliant color. Afterward, the dial is polished to offer a rich appearance and depth.

The satin-brushed cartouche dial is almost bare, except for its sword-shaped hands in steel and Tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Providing 60 hours of power reserve is the robust caliber 9452 MC, a mechanical manual winding movement with 142 parts. It is fitted on a dark blue alligator leather strap.

Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II (ref. 34238AA54.BVA95)

Louis Erard is a respected brand known for its affordable luxury watches. The Émail Grand Feu II is the second model from the brand that features a radiant Grand Feu enamel dial. Following Louis Erard’s grand tradition of métiers d’art, the timepiece is a beautiful mix of traditional and contemporary aesthetics.

The vitreous enamel dial is rendered in pristine white with lively blue indications that pleasantly contrast the effusive purity of the façade. Certain purists will be delighted to know that the radiance of the enamel dial is perpetual and the color is fixed permanently. Also, the multiple layers of enamel powder, which have been fused to the thin metal disc, are forever bonded to it. 

The handcrafted dial features applied Roman numerals and some long slender markers with a subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The brand’s Fir Tree hands have been blued so that they sit prominently against the serene enamel, while a striking red Roman numeral at 12 adds a fine touch of animation to the dial.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Sellita SW261-1 self-winding movement that provides a power reserve of 38 hours. The watch measures 38mm in diameter and has a height of 12.25mm. It comes on a red-grained calfskin strap with bright blue stitches at each lug, creating an elegant ensemble.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon (ref. 730.079)

A. Lange & Sohne is a brand highly respected for its horological exactitude, and the classic 1815 Tourbillon is an allusion to the ingenious technicality of the brand. The design is inspired by vintage pocket watches, so it is conservatively styled but stands out from the timepieces in A. Lange & Söhne’s catalog due to its stark white enamel dial with a vivid red “12”.

The diminutive 38mm platinum case has been polished on all sides save for some sections of the case back and the caseband, giving the watch a radiant gleam. The grand-feu dial has a brilliant white color with a glossy surface. According to the brand, it has taken about 30 manual processes to craft each dial, which just points to the series of painstaking actions often repeated numerous times to produce this flawless surface.

The glossy white dial is adorned with the radiant blue lance-shaped hands, the A. Lange & Söhne’s curved logo, bold black Arabic numerals, and a chemin-de-fer. Overall, no concession to expedience is observed in any detail. The watch features several patented devices and is powered by the hand-wound Calibre L102.1, which can store up to 72 hours of energy.

Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 (ref. 161977-5001)

Presented in a 40mm x 10.3mm satin-brushed and polished 18K rose gold case, the Quattro Spirit 25 is Chopard’s first jumping-hour timepiece. The white grand feu enamel dial is strongly legible with an impressive quality that adds to the timepiece’s appeal.

Produced in-house by Chopard’s artisans, the beauty of the enamel dial is enchanting and won’t diminish with the onset of the years. A rose gold disc has been used as the base underneath, and successive layers of vitreous enamel have been carefully applied and fired at high temperatures to attain a glossy surface that beams beautifully when viewed from the top. 

At the base of the dial (6 o’clock), we find the jumping-hour aperture with a black Arabic numeral against a white disc that ‘jumps’ when the minute hand strikes 60. The display is framed with a mesmerizing rose gold bolder that instantly attracts the wearer to the prevailing hour, located subtly within the main dial.

The “L.U.CHOPARD” logo is located beneath the 60-minute mark, railway track, and Arabic numerals indicating the minutes have been produced by black enamel, while a gilded Dauphine hand is used to indicate the minutes.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Calibre LUC 98.06-L. A hand-wound movement with 240 components, including 42 jewels, provides an impressive power reserve of 192 hours.

Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture (ref. 3203-136-2/E3)

Showcasing the precious art of enameling in all its grandeur is the Classico Manufacture from Ulysse Nardin. The dial is created by Donzé Cadrans, a subsidiary of the brand with talented designers who are specialists in enameling. The dress watch is a perfect blend of elegance and style and is presented in a classic stainless-steel case that measures 40 mm across.

The blue grand feu enamel dial is breathtaking, and the designers have tried to keep it as understated as possible. The dial, made by applying vitreous enamel over a guilloché base and repeatedly firing at ultra-high temperatures, has a uniqueness that cannot be synthetically replicated.

The blue hue and patterns are altered depending on how the light hits the dial, and the legibility is excellent thanks to its luminous hands and hour markers. Embossed Roman indicators are used to mark 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, while embossed bars are used to mark the other hours.

An in-laid sub-dial at 6 o’clock is excellently designed and displays the seconds. It also shows the date through a round aperture, indicative of the nautical heritage. Powering the watch is the self-winding UN-320 caliber, an in-house movement by Ulysse Nardin. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph and offers a power reserve of 48 hours. It is fitted to a blue alligator strap and is water resistant to 30 meters.

Moritz Grossmann Atum Enamel White Gold (ref. MG-000807)

Moritz Grossmann is a watch manufacturer known to produce some of the world’s most exquisite timepieces, and what we have here is a true paragon of exclusive watchmaking.

Standing out with impeccable graphics and noble minimalism, the Atum Enamel can easily be described as functional and clean with its classic round case that has been fashioned out of rose gold. 

The watch measures a fitting 41mm across and is 11.65mm high. The timepiece’s overall design is vintage-inspired but enlivened by contemporary styling patterns and nuances. The glossy surface of the dial is perhaps a bit too stark, but it has a charming vibrancy that cannot be imitated by lacquering methods.

Narrow Roman numerals in black provide excellent contrast and legibility against the gleaming white surface, while the vivid blue numeral at 12 o’clock proffers a stylish touch of animation to it. At the base, a subtle small seconds counter for the seconds has been slightly sunken and takes the position of the 6 o’clock index without disrupting the symmetry of the dial.

Three traditionally styled Lancette hands, made of steel, sweep across the face of the dial, and all have been polished so brightly that they stand out sharply against the peaceful beauty of the enamel. The watch is powered by Moritz Grossmann’s caliber 100.1, which beats at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel (ref. J013013200)

Jaquet Droz is a brand that has gained popularity by crafting iconic timepieces that can easily be aligned with works of art. The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel is particularly spellbinding with classic good looks and typical Jaquet Droz quality. The 18K red gold case measures 39mm in diameter, a suitable size relative to the movement it houses, and wide enough to offer the watch a notable presence on the wrist without being enormous.

The look is familiar and quite noticeable is the distinctive lucky number 8, which has become a recurring theme for the brand. This time, however, it is presented on a gorgeous expanse of soft-spoken ivory enamel. As expected from a marquee with the outstanding heritage of Jaquet Droz, the execution of the white ivory enamel is first class.

The superb ivory enamel dial, which is more complicated to create than it looks, has a factory-fresh appearance with a warm, brilliant white color that will not age over time. The phenomenal dial is adorned with 18K red gold hours and minutes hands, blued steel seconds hand, and a beautiful tourbillon that reveals a palpable degree of luxury. 

Inside, the Grande Seconde Tourbillon beats the in-house Jaquet Droz 25JD, an impressively constructed self-winding movement with detailed hand-finishing that offers a power reserve of about 7 days. Overall the timepiece is a true paragon of exclusive fine watchmaking and is fitted to a hand-made black alligator leather strap.

Conclusion

The making of an enamel dial is a labor of love with a million heartbreaks. This is why watches with enamel dials would remain the most prestigious among all others.

I’m of the mind that if you can purchase something as haute horological as a timepiece with an impressive enamel dial, by all means, do. Not only do they epitomize continued respect for the ancient craft, but they are also ageless and have great long-term collectible potential.

The firmament has enthralled humans since time immemorial, but space travel has remained largely inaccessible to most. In 2021 Virgin Galactic, a space tourism company, sold 90-minute rides to suborbital space for about $450,000 per seat.

Axiom Space, another company that offers human spaceflight services to individuals and groups, was also marketing a 10-day trip to Space for $55 million at that time. The figures show how much space exploration has been reserved for the elite few.

But what if you could still have something truly out of this world without spending half a million dollars? What if you could own an extraterrestrial piece from a comet, asteroid, or meteoroid?

Introducing meteorite dial watches, the perfect amalgamation of time and space! Coming from cosmic rocks that survived a journey of hundreds of miles through the atmosphere to get to the Earth’s surface, meteorites are debris from asteroids or even exploding planets.

Here we take a look at the best watches equipped with superbly inviting meteorite dials.

About Meteorite Dial Watches

Meteorites are both astrological and mystifying. These unusual celestial materials have been used to make jewelry for decades. In 1922, a team of Egyptian excavators (led by Howard Carter) found meteorites among the objects retrieved from the tomb of Tutankhamun. 

In the watch industry, however, its use is a recent occurrence. It’s not certain which meteorite watch was the very first, but in 1986, Corum unveiled a timepiece with a meteorite dial. The meteorite used was one discovered by  Robert E. Peary (a famous explorer) in Greenland, and the watch was called the ‘Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Meteorite Dual Time watch‘. 

Rolex is another brand that has used slices of meteorites to make elegant dials for decades within the Daytona and the Day-Date collection. Nevertheless, with the advent of the 21st century, many high-end brands began to unveil meteorite dials intermittently. 

Each meteorite is literally out of this world, and the dials with them feature a naturally occurring configuration that cannot be replicated synthetically. Apart from their rarity within the horological world, they became famous for their mesmerizing appearance due to prominent Widmanstätten structures.

The striations and patterns are highlighted after the slice of meteorite to be used for the dial has been cleaned, polished, and ‘etched’ with an acid (often nitric acid). These are called Widmanstätten patterns after Beckh Widmanstätten, who was director of the Imperial Porcelain Works at Vienna in 1808.

It was he who discovered that heating iron meteorites influences their natural luster and reveals a fine interleaving of long nickel–iron crystals that are both dramatic and distinctive.

Should You Buy A Meteorite Dial Watch?

Mysterious and architectural, meteorite watches tell a compelling story that will make a difference to the wearer anytime, any day. From outer space to planet Earth and then to watch’s face, these space rocks travel billions of miles across the universe to get to a timepiece. That said, why would anyone desire anything less?

Not only do you get a chance to own a piece of the molten planetary core that has existed for billions of years, but you also get to hold a fingerprint of the universe in your hands. I say this because each meteorite dial is unique. So no two meteorite watches produced will ever appear the same.

Collectors who view their passion for obtaining rare timepieces as a convergence of time and space would find these space-material watches particularly satisfying.

Many meteorite timepieces are elegant conservative dress watches and make a great ‘tuxedo timepiece’ for formal occasions. However, some of these are also known to offer a few ‘extras’ upon closer inspection, so they end up fitting various styles and can be used in any season.

12 Best Meteorite Dial Watches

1. Rolex Day-Date Meteorite Dial (ref. 228239)

Coming in an 18kt 40mm white gold case, the Day-Date (the first timepiece to spell out the day of the week in full) is the ultimate watch of prestige. Its meteorite dial features a unique crystalline crosshatch pattern called the Widmanstätten pattern or Thomson structure. 

18kt white gold hands adorn the luxe face of the dial, while baguette diamond index hour markers add excellence to the overall visage. 

With a 12mm case thickness, a lug-to-lug distance of 47.4mm, and an 18kt white gold President bracelet, the timepiece epitomizes wealth, and will accommodate a variety of medium-sized wrists. Rolex’s fluted bezel with a wavy design is instantly recognizable for gracing the watch pleasantly. 

An arched day indicator window can be seen at the 12 o’clock position. Beneath it is a polished Rolex logo and the words ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day Date’ neatly spelled out. At the 3 o’clock position is the date window with a cyclops magnifier that has been integrated with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal to heighten the legibility of the date window. 

Oscillating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour is Rolex caliber 3255, an automatic movement with 31 jewels. It provides an outstanding power reserve of 70 hours.

2. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Meteorite (ref. 311.63.44.51.99.001)

Trends come and slowly fade out of existence, but never extolled timepieces like the Omega Speedmaster. Since the Speedmaster’s tryst with fate in 1969 when the original model landed on the moon, the collection has continued to be included in NASA’s certified equipment for space.

But the world is evolving, and the Speedmaster Professional has also been transformed into something more elegant, resplendent, and ostentatious.

The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Meteorite is one of the most glamorous versions of the collection, boasting a slice of the rare piece of extra-terrestrial rock that hit planet Earth in prehistoric times.

The sleek gray ceramic case measures 44.25mm in diameter and has two recessed chronograph pushers bordering the winding crown. The bezel is Omega’s patented 18k Sedna gold, and the red gold alloy has also been employed in the making of the hands and applied makers.

The gray dial is breathtaking and has light-colored streaks organically integrated with darker bands to give a unique combination. Two sub-dials are neatly placed at 3 and 9 o’clock, while a date window is at the 6 o’clock position. A sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides protects the dial.

The Speedmaster Meteorite is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Caliber 9300, a top-tier automatic chronograph movement that offers the wearer up to 60 hours of power reserve. It is water resistant to a depth of 50 meters and comes mounted on a gray leather strap with a titanium foldover clasp.

3. Rolex GMT Master II Meteorite Dial (ref. 126719BLRO)

The Rolex GMT Master ll meteorite watch is arguably the most practical awe-inspiring timepiece out there. That said, if you are searching for a rare watch that is refined and compelling from Rolex, look no further. 

The remarkable quality of the utilitarian timepiece is akin to other sports watches from Rolex, but the magnificence of the Gibeon meteorite is what takes it to another league. The white gold case measures 40mm in diameter, comes with a screw-down case back and Triplock winding crown, and has been mounted on a white gold Oyster bracelet. 

Like many other meteorite dials from Rolex, the sliced piece of Gibeon meteorite has been treated with an acid wash to reveal the streaky surface known as Widmanstätten patterns. Applied white gold indices and bold hour markers adorn the face of the dial, and both have been generously filled with Chromalight luminous solution. 

A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the watch’s dial, while a cyclops lens magnifies the date display at 3 o’clock. The bezel features a two-color Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic, and the watch has been designed to tell the time simultaneously in two different time zones.

Powering the watch is the caliber 3285, Rolex’s in-house movement with a Parachrom hairspring, a Superlative-Chronometer certification, and a Chronergy escapement. The robust movement delivers an impressive power reserve of approximately 70 hours and an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

4. Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Caliber 321 (ref. 311.93.42.30.99.001s)

Presented on a non‑grained alligator leather strap, the 42mm platinum-cased watch represents the height of haute horlogerie. I consider this piece an enchanting window into the world of space. 

The dial is a true reminiscence of the vintage Speedmasters but is more spectacular and refined as it is fashioned out of polished black onyx. The lush onyx dial lays the foundations for the three chronograph sub-dials that are all made with slices of lunar meteorite. 

The streaked slate-gray meteorite subdials have been positioned at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. At 3, you will find the small seconds subdial, at 6 is the 30-minute counter, and at 9 o’clock is the 12-hour counter. 18K white gold has been used for the hour and minute hands, while plated brass is used for the central second hands. 

The dot over 90 or DO90 Bezel is a fascinating detail for ambitious collectors. Speedmaster fans will immediately notice that Omega has trailed the path of the vintage models that used this same bezel design until the 1970s. The bezel printing features a little indicator or dot above 90 on the tachymeter scale. 

Other details that bear a resemblance to the original models include the double-step case back, a second hand with a teardrop tip, the memorable bezel layout, and even the Omega logo with the inscription “Professional” at 12 o’clock. 

This timepiece houses the legendary Calibre 321, which is another heartwarming fact. A true veteran of space travel, the Calibre 321 still beats at 18,000vph, which is its normal slow pace; however, the power reserve is now 55 hours. It can be viewed through the sapphire-crystal case back.

5. Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon

Behold one of the most ingenious and exceptionally impressive haute horology icons. The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon! Representing a powered sculpture as much as an accurate timing machine, this watch is a tourbillon with an avant-garde, built-on-demand moon phase that is drawn up with the help of a pusher on the case.

The timepiece, which was designed in collaboration with Renaud & Papi, comes in a platinum case that measures 47mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.65mm. The timepiece is hefty and large, going by its measurement and robust arching lugs.

But the large size contributes to revealing the ostentatious openwork construction of its breathtaking dial and the profound complication of the movement within. According to the timepiece’s name, the watch brings in the presence of planet Earth and outer space, as seen in the appearance of a polished meteorite stone and platinum.

Following the supreme tradition of Cartier Fine Watchmaking, the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch presents two displays through an impressive interplay of indications.  The usual display that shows the local time with a time zone indicator appears as a 24-hour disc on one side. Then a lunar display with a juxtaposed tourbillon and Moon-phase on-demand is on the other side.

The Ref.WHRO0013 features two sub-dials, each with a disc of meteorite stone. The subdial at the top of the timepiece houses the elegant Cartier blued-steel hands and is for telling time. It can be adjusted by the pusher at 2 o’clock.

The other meteorite disc, partly concealed at 4 o’clock, comes entirely into view with the help of the second pusher, which will automatically eclipse the tourbillon. Ticking at 21,600 vibrations per hour is the caliber 9440 MC movement with a mainspring that provides up to 72 hours of power reserve. The breathtaking movement can be savored through the case-back of the watch.

6. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Meteorite Dial (ref. 116519LN)

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Meteorite is presented in three elegant variants. The first option is an 18k white gold case watch mounted on an Oysterflex bracelet. It flaunts a black ceramic monobloc Cerachrom bezel and a tachymetric scale.

The second and third options are 18K yellow gold, and 18-carat Everose gold (Rolex’s proprietary rendition of rose gold) watches with metallic bezels and Oyster bracelets, respectively. 

Rolex takes the trio to a whole new level by adding a flawless meteorite dial to the classic Daytona formula. Technically, the Daytona recipe has not changed; the same 40mm gold case is used here, the black ceramic or gold bezel, and the robust caliber 4130 movement powers all three watches. 

Only the meteorite dial makes this watch stand out with a unique personality. The Widmanstätten pattern or streaky configuration created by the crystalline framework of the meteorite has been polished but still retains a rougher appearance than the smoothly-finished lacquered dials of other Daytonas.

The Rolex coronet logo, applied hour markers, hour, minutes and seconds hands, and chronograph register borders sport the same color as the case. The fixed bezel has an engraved tachymeter scale and a screw-down crown which uses the Rolex Triplock system to ensure the timepiece is water resistant up to 100 meters. 

The hands and hour markers are generously filled with Rolex’s Chromalight for excellent legibility in low-light conditions. 

Beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the self-winding caliber 4130 with 44 jewels and 201 components. The watch comes with a 5-year warranty and has an impressive power reserve of approximately 72 hours when fully wound.

7. De Bethune DB28XP

Firmly established as an innovative watchmaker in the micro space of high-end luxury watches, De Bethune is recognized for its technological mastery, avant-garde movements, ingenuity, and impressive materials. 

The brand, founded by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet in 2002, has continued the art of traditional making with cutting-edge technologies. The De Bethune DB28XP is the immaculate manifestation of the brand’s watchmaking ideology.

The case has been finished in matte black Zirconium oxide, which is superior to the traditional cases used for most watches and is nearly impossible to scratch. It measures just right at 43mm and 7.3mm high and will sit snugly on the wrist, thanks to the floating skeletonized lugs from De Bethune. 

The meteorite used for the dial is believed to be “Muonionalusta”, and the brand’s expertise has enabled it to create an outstanding design from the heated meteorite. The blued meteorite dial has been interspersed with marked purple tones, and finally, a lineup of white gold pins has been driven by hand into the dial’s surface. 

An anthracite hour ring with pink gold Arabic numerals adorns the dial, while the arrow-shaped hour and minute hands match the surrounding chamfered blue polished steel rim. 

It is fitted with the aesthetically imposing Calibre DB2115v7 that can be seen through an opening at 6 o’clock.

8. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf SS Automatic Meteorite Dial

Zodiac is a watch brand with a unique heritage. Credited with manufacturing the first automatic sports watch, the watchmaker is known for offering excellent Swiss watches with innovative designs.

Presented in stainless steel that measures 40mm in diameter, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf timepiece features a gray and orange color scheme that draws attention to the meteorite dial. 

The meteorite used here is believed to be the ancient Muonionalusta Meteorite discovered in Sweden in 1906. The unique patterns give the dial a look that no other watch on Earth will share with it and enhance the natural configuration of the dark dial; gray and black accents have been used for the hands and hour markers. 

The case and bracelet are DLC gray to compliment the dial, while the gray bezel inserts feature orange accents that legibly display the first indexed 15 minutes. Much attention has been given to the dial to make it ultra-legible and practical.

The hands are baton-shaped, the hour markers are rectangular, and both have been generously filled with lume to offer profound readability in low-light conditions. A lone screw-down winding crown can be seen at the 3 o’clock position, and together with a compact stainless steel case back, 200 meters of water resistance is guaranteed.

The dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal and comes mounted on a 5-link stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly-style deployment clasp. Beating in the heart of the watch at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the Swiss-made automatic STP 1-11, with 26 jewels that provide 44 hours of power reserve.

9. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered Meteorite Dial

Jaquet Droz is a renowned mechanical genius famous for its watches, songbirds, and androids. The brand has adhered to the highest possible standards in its sophisticated designs and intricate mechanism.

Many people familiar with the elegant designs of the high-end luxury watchmaker will not find the signature figure eight on this dial strange. This time, however, it has been tilted by about 30 degrees, including the movement, so the crown has moved to the 4 o’clock position.

The meteorite dial lends the watch a distinctive character with its Widmanstätten pattern, while the eccentric Jaquet Droz-styled dial transforms the entire wristwatch into a piece of art. The timepiece is completely breathtaking, with its off-center hour and minute display being positioned towards the Northeast location of the dial. 

It interlaces with the applied gold rings of the large off-centered seconds subdial, giving the entire watch a healthy dose of equilibrium. Like the rings, the hour, minute, and seconds hands have been fashioned out of 18k pink gold. 

As rare as the meteorite itself, the limited collection is available in three variants. There is a pink gold case model that measures 39mm across, another variant decorated with diamonds, and a third model that measures 43mm in diameter and features a red gold case. Visible through the sapphire exhibition case back is the self-winding caliber JD 2663P that provides an impressive power reserve of 68 hours

10. Piaget Altiplano Automatic Meteorite Dial

Piaget is a brand that has firmly established itself as daring, creative, and bold, with an audacity of unmatched style. The Altiplano Meteorite watch follows Piaget’s tradition in offering this elegant timepiece in a sleek and discreet case that makes modern luxury appear easy.

The case, which is made of 18k pink gold, measures 40mm in diameter and has been thoroughly polished. The height of the watch is only 6.5mm, and this feat has been achieved by some complex technicalities, including a thin movement that stands at a mere 3mm.

Even though the caliber 1203P (visible through the sapphire case back) is very, very thin, it still provides an impressive power reserve of 44 hours and operates at 3Hz. The dial, which is a thin slice of meteorite, has undergone treatment with nitric acid to reveal the distinct Widmanstätten patterns, which appear as elongated iron crystals running parallel to each other in blocked sections.

Adorning the dial is the pink gold applied indexes and hands, which complement the 18k pink gold case and perfectly match the meteorite dial. Being that the timepiece is a sleek dress watch, every component has been well-proportioned. 

The flat polished bezel, minimalistic crown, thin lugs, and even flat case band all accentuate the slim case giving the watch a personality on its own. It comes mounted on a gray alligator leather strap with an 18K pink gold pin buckle. 

11. Louis Moinet Man on The Moon

Louis Moinet is famous for its utilization of meteorites and fossils, and other exotic materials in creating high-end timepieces. In addition to the brand’s expertise in astronomical indications, Moinet’s watch line exudes extravagance, with each distinct timepiece making a loud statement that travels beyond planet Earth. The Meteoris watch collection bridges the gap between terrestrial art and outer space.

Incorporated with a genuine fragment of a Lunar meteorite, the Louis Moinet Moon watch comes in a 43.2mm 316L stainless steel case that is somewhat complex. The case features a stepped bezel with the upper section firmly attached to the head of the main watch with the help of six screws.

A capsule has been positioned at 3 o’clock, and it is here that a fragment of the stunning lunar meteorite sits against the brass dial. The openwork dial was designed to mimic the moon’s surface, especially the lunar impact crater features such as Gassendi, located at the northern edge of Mare Humorum, Tycho, and Cassini.

The hours and minute hands exude a unique gracefulness and have the flamboyant Gouttes de Rosée (dewdrop) tip. The hour markers aggrandize the allure of the breathtaking dial and are somewhat suspended in mid-air.

The cutouts on the dial also reveal the movement, escapement, and offset hands. Delivering up to 48 hours of power reserve,  the Calibre LM45 has been decorated with diamond-polished facets and circular-grained wheels. The timepiece is water resistant to a depth of 50 meters and is presented on a hand-sewn blue alligator leather strap with an alligator lining.

12. Zelos Mako 500M Diver Meteorite

Zelos is a microbrand known for its unique timepiece that often draws inspiration from the rarest of places. Recognized for using non-standard materials in its production process, Zelos has a catalog of impressive watches made out of titanium, bronze, and many prized ancient materials, including meteorite discs.

The Zelos Mako 500 Meteorite is one such innovative creation with an impressive water resistance rating of 500 meters. Measuring a comfortable 40mm diameter (46mm diameter lug to lug), the stainless steel case was built to suit different occasions and wrists. 

The dial features a natural gray Widmanstatten Pattern and comes from a slice of the Muonionalusta meteorite. The textured dial features small circular hour markers filled with BGW9 lume. Applied triangles adjoin the hour markers at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock, while a white-on-black date display has replaced the 6 o’clock index. 

The dial is uncluttered, clean, and legible with the applied Zelos logo above and the words “500m/1640 ft” and “Automatic” placed below in light blue. The hour and minute hands are slim-faceted swords in gold, while the second hand appears as a paddle with a light red tip.

Protecting the dial is a domed ‘box-shaped’ sapphire crystal that measures height to 15.4mm. On the other side, the brushed stainless steel case back features a raised illustration of a shark. It is driven by the Swiss Sellita SW200 automatic movement with 26 jewels and 38 hours of power reserve.

Conclusion

In the world of magnificence and grandeur, meteorite dial watches are known to leave a strong expression. Since crafting a dial out of a rock is a truly delicate task, they generally command high prices. This is understandable because of the brittle nature of the special matter and the fact that the dial must be cut to an incredibly thin slice which sometimes still has to undergo drilling for the hands, numerals, etc.

While some people may consider the use of meteorites in watchmaking absurd and bland, the compelling story that comes with each meteorite dial timepiece brings our existence in the universe into focus and reminds us of our place as humans.

Find more enchanting meteorite dial watches right here.

Swiss watchmakers have often said they loathe the gray market. They’ve called it the watch industry’s cancer, and it’s easy to see why. Taking as much as 20% of revenue from the overall global watch market (worth $62.5bn as reported by Euromonitor), the gray market is growing massively. 

It continues to cause a significant revenue loss to watch brands with high discounts that wreck the conscientious prestige and reputation that the brands have built over the years. This is also reflected in Jean-Claude Biver’s statement to Reuters. The former LVMH president stated that once you’ve broken the illusion of prestige and high prices, it will slowly lead to the demise of luxury goods. 

A couple of years back, the gray market was nothing more than a shadow, and then it caused very little irritation to authorized dealers and prestigious watch brands, but not so anymore. If you’re a watch enthusiast, you must have been advised to purchase a gray market watch, and at this point, I want to add that gray market dealers aren’t the bad guys; it’s just that they are unauthorized. 

What Is A Gray Market Dealer?

Unlike the black market, the gray market is legitimate. It constitutes dealers outside the authorized dealer network of watch brands that offer authentic products at prices 20% to 30% below the retail price. To buttress this further, a timepiece purchased from Exquisite Timepieces would be a primary market purchase. 

In contrast, the same watch purchased in the Jomashop store would be a gray market purchase. The watches purchased from the gray market generally come without factory warranties and have a lower resale value than those purchased from an authorized dealer.

So, gray market dealers include all the watch dealers and boutiques that are not accredited distributors of the watch brand they sell. They are an unauthorized source selling authentic watches that are legally sourced outside the distribution course agreed upon by the brand and authorized dealers.

Where Do Grey Market Dealers Get Their Watches From?

It is difficult to determine how the gray market gets its supply as unauthorized dealers acquire timepieces in various ways. Many gray market dealers are keen on protecting their suppliers’ identities. Still, one speculation is that the watches are obtained from authorized dealers around the globe who are striving to sell off their stock to get a new intake. Another speculation is that the watch brands themselves sell obsolete and unsold timepieces from their inventory directly to the gray market dealers in ways that make traceability very difficult.

Luxury Brands’ Response To The Gray Market Watch Industry

From forfeiting hundreds of millions of dollars to keep stock out of the gray market to cutting down wholesale orders to preserve the patina of exclusivity and rarity, top watch brands have often tried to solve the gray market issues. 

Mr von Känel, former CEO of Longines, said the brand was attacking gray market sites by tracking Longlines watches found on the gray market online stores back to the dealers and then penalizing such dealers by delisting them permanently from its list of official retailers.

Others are rebuying gray market inventory. For instance, Richemont (which owns A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, etc.) reckoned that 500 million USD was worth paying to prevent the global gray market from being flooded with its timepieces. 

At the same time, Omega, in an attempt to curb the sale of one of its watches in gray market sites, put a tiny 0.5cm engraving on the back of it and claimed copyright on the timepiece.

Some other brands (like Rolex) are responding to this growing threat by offering in-house resale services. This is not to say brands are not two-faced. Most brands are unwilling to take legal action against their dealers caught defaulting or even reduce their stock volume.

Should You Buy Watches From Gray Market Dealers?

No one is immune to a discount. As the gray market continues to grow massively with an increased number of luxury watches on their sites with beckoning bargains, they have become a powerful force that is impossible to ignore. 

While buying a watch from a gray market or not lies within your power, take a look at the advantages and disadvantages of doing so below to make an informed decision.

Advantages

Availability

The gray market offers a wide array of elegant watches that are readily available and easier to access. There is hardly any waiting list, even for luxury watches from high-end brands – which is not the case with licensed dealers. It is even possible to access rare collections on the gray market.

Convenience

Gray market dealers operate online, so you can browse through numerous available options and make purchases easily with flexible payment options, including cash on delivery with just one click. Features like trade-in schemes for old watches, price-match, etc, heighten the ease and comfort of an effortless shopping experience.

Price Point

Since gray market dealers usually get their watches in bulk from VAT-free countries, they are priced more competitively and are steeply discounted than those obtained from authorized dealers.

Disadvantages

Warranty And Resale Value

Watch warranties protect against manufacturer’s defects and give you (the buyer) the opportunity to be compensated for any losses suffered while purchasing the watch from an authorized dealer. The complete manufacturer’s warranty is one of the benefits an authorized dealer can offer, which gray market dealers can’t. 

Apart from fixing up whatever is wrong with the watch after purchase, the warranty card is seen as the Certificate Of Authenticity, making the timepiece retain its value when and if you decide to resell it. This is a significant trade-off when dealing with gray market dealers because gray market watches do not include the manufacturer’s warranty. 

Authenticity And Product Knowledge

One of the biggest issues with gray market dealers is authenticity. Since the watches are obtained outside the manufacturer’s official distribution network, the risk of counterfeit watches is present, albeit very low. 

Unlike watches obtained from the gray market, buyers can feel 100% secure when dealing with authorized dealers (ADs) since what they get isn’t counterfeit, and ADs can provide knowledgeable answers to product questions too. 

For the gray market, there are bound to be a lot of fake watches in circulation, and it’s not so easy to undermine counterfeiters since the serial numbers are often completely removed, making tracking impossible.

Quality Repairs

A watch obtained from an authorized dealer is eligible for in-house maintenance within the warranty period. Authorized dealers have direct access to various brands’ service centers, as brands do not service watches purchased outside their official network. So it will cost you some money to have your timepiece sent back to the manufacturer for fixing if you get it from the gray market.

Jomashop Vs Watchmaxx: Which is Best for You?

If you’re in the market for a quality watch, you’ve probably stumbled upon Jomashop, the king of the discount gray market online watch stores. Ranked 19 from over 100 jewelry and luxury products brands in the United States, Jomashop was founded by Marvin Sternberg and began operation in 1987, intending to be the number one luxury store gray market. 

Watchmaxx, on the other hand, is a family-owned business founded in 1999. Both stores claim to offer a 100% authentic and unrivaled selection of luxury watches at some of the most competitive prices, but how do they compete against each other? Let’s find out!

Brand Selection

Both stores have a wide array of watches to choose from. But, Jomashop’s inventory is more extensive and varied, with watches from hundreds of brands, including Cartier, Omega, and Rolex. 

Watchmaxx, on the other hand, doesn’t carry every mainstream watch brand but has a strong inventory in the low to mid-range market. So if you’re interested in an affordable luxury watch from brands like Tissot, Citizen, Seiko, Orient watches, Oris, or even Longines, Watchmaxx is worth skimming through for deals. 

This is not to say Watchmaxx doesn’t have luxury watches from prestigious brands, as they do have watches from numerous brands. But Jomashop wins the selection category because, in addition to low and mid-range watch brands, it delves deeper into the watch world and carries ultra high-end timepieces with complex movements like Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, and Patek Philippe.

Customer Service

Both WatchMaxx and Jomashop have built their brand on trust, and customers are generally satisfied with their purchases, according to online reviews. While none of them can be said to offer services that are up to par with today’s standards, they have acceptable end-user ratings.

WatchMaxx, for instance, has been rated 4.79 stars from over 9,000 reviews, while Jomashop has a 4.9 stars rating on Amazon from over 70,000 verified purchases. This shows that both Jomashop and WatchMaxx constantly work hard to ensure their customers feel secure when making purchases since poor service always leads to loss of revenue and lower profits.

However, prevailing comments show that customer service for both online stores is not always proactive, lacks product stock information, and doesn’t emphasize value to the end user.

Shipping and Return policy

Dealing with returns is unavoidable, and when it comes to the gray market, there are higher return rates compared to brick-and-mortar stores. Unfortunately, the reviews for both Jomashop and WatchMaxx are lined with people waiting for up to several days for their orders to be shipped.

So, don’t expect swift shipping as delays are common since both companies are large and run their logistics and warehouse. In addition to this, if you find your product defective on receipt, you are accountable for all the return shipping costs for repairs.

Reputation

Jomashop and Watchmaxx are legit online retailers that source authentic stocks from reputable authorized dealers, distributors, and jewelers. Both stores have been in business for a long time and have established a good reputation for standing behind their products. 

Jomashop has a stronger brand reputation than Watchmaxx, with a more extensive reach. It currently ships to over 150 countries, and its merchandise is guaranteed. Some of them even come with a warranty card (even though this isn’t validated by the watch brand), and the watches are as shown on the website.

Reliability

Both stores strive to be credible and transparent in their deals and how they treat their customers. However, when you deal with thousands of orders daily, it’s natural to make mistakes.

There are plenty of unhappy reviews from verified buyers that received wrong or defective items and had a hard time returning or repairing them. Always remember that, when you buy from a gray market dealer, you lose out on the support and assistance of the watch brand itself. 

Jomashop Pros

• An extensive list of high-quality watches with frequently updated stock
• Affordable prices for high-end luxury watches
• Frequent promos and coupons, as well as a watch trade-in service
• Fast domestic shipping plus international shipping to about 150 countries
• Positive reputation

Jomashop Cons

• Long delivery times for international buyers
• Return shipping charges are not covered
• Poor customer service & bad exchange, refund, and cancellation policy
• Risk of purchasing a defective piece or counterfeit watch

WatchMaxx Pros

• Great website layout and selection of products
• A wide array of luxury watches with competitive prices.
• Quick delivery/Fast domestic shipping
• Generous discount code options
• Free sizing service

WatchMaxx Cons

• Additional charges on international orders
• Risk of purchasing a defective or counterfeit watch
• No factory warranty
• Subpar customer support with a bad cancellation & refund policy

A Necessary Evil

Even though the gray market acts as an acceptable solution to overstocking, it can still be harmful to the luxury watch industry. Its prevalence has been significant over the past few years, and it may even outgrow authorized dealers in terms of watch sales.

The gray market does come with a lot of benefits, including access to luxury watches at lower prices. However, if anything happens to your timepiece, you’re likely to spend more to fix it than the amount you saved from shopping in the gray market. Not to mention the constant risk of buying a counterfeit watch.

If you want the peace of mind that you’re buying 100% authentic watches, then you should opt for an authorized dealer. Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer for many popular watch brands such as Omega, Seiko, and Longines and provides an excellent customer experience with an unmatched warranty.