Author: Anne Bensons

Welcome to another knock-down, drag-out battle here on Exquisite Timepieces. Today, we pit two strong value-based Japanese brands against each other.

If you’re looking for a great timepiece that mashes up ruggedness and durability at an accessible price point, your best offers will be from Seiko and Orient. Together with Citizen, Seiko, and Orient make up the three top Asian watch brands and are known all over the globe.

Apart from offering the best entry-level choices on the market, they are both respected for providing exquisitely styled watches that are precise, accurate, and reliable.

Will the maker of exceptional value-for-money watches (Orient) be able to beat the reigning Japanese champion (Seiko)? Let’s find out!

About Orient Watches

Orient is a Japanese watch manufacturer with roots stretching back to 1901. 1901 was the year Shogoro Yoshida started ‘Yoshida Watch Shop’ in Ueno, Taito, Tokyo, Japan. The young merchant began by selling imported watches, and by 1912, the business had expanded to a point where Yoshida began producing gold wristwatch cases. 

Fast forward to 1920, and Yoshida moved on to producing table clocks and gauges. By 1934, the company, now “Toyo Tokei Manufacturing”, began manufacturing wristwatches. The business expanded, and in 1936, there was a need to move to a larger base which led to the building of the Hino factory in Hino, Tokyo, Japan.

The young brand continued production in this location successfully until 1949, when it shut down due to the economic meltdown following World War II. Hope came alive once more, and Toyo Tokei Manufacturing was brought back to life in 1950 under the name Tama Keiki Company. The name was changed to Orient Watch Company Limited a year later, and the first Orient Star went on sale immediately.

The watch quickly gained popularity among top luxury watches, giving Orient Watch Company Limited an expanded reach and visibility. Other important watches released during this era include the “Fineness”, the world’s thinnest automatic timepiece that featured a day and date calendar function in 1967, the “Dynamic” in 1956, and the “Grand Prix 100” in 1964. 

The company survived the quartz crisis in the 1970s, and about three decades later, the Orient Technical Center (OTC) was founded to assemble high-end watches in Ugo, Ogachi, Akita, Japan.

The proud Japanese craftsmanship of exquisite watchmaking continued, and Orient Watch Company eventually became a functional subsidiary of the Seiko-Epson Corporation in 2017.

About Seiko Watches

Seiko’s story begins in 1881 with a 21-year-old entrepreneur, Kintarō Hattori, opening a watch and jewelry shop. The store, which he called “K. Hattori”, was located in Ginza, Tokyo. He also began to sell and repair watches and clocks, a skill he learned from working as a clockmaker apprentice when he was 13 years old. 

His business grew very quickly, and just four years after its establishment, he began importing exclusive timepieces and machinery for wholesalers who needed these items from foreign trading companies. His close partnership with various international trading firms gave him access to Western (imported) timepieces and machinery that were not available elsewhere then.

Due to the rarity of the imported timepieces and machinery, his business grew exponentially, so that in 1892, eleven years after he founded “K. Hattori”, the ‘Seikosha’ factory was established.

It was in Seikosha, which roughly means “Exquisite House” in Japanese, that Kintaro Hattori began the production of his first clocks. 

By 1895, the young brand launched its first in-house pocket watch, “The Timekeeper”, and all through the 1890s, the success of Seikosha’s watch business heightened. The production of the Timekeeper was a vital step and laid the foundation for Japan’s first-ever wristwatch, without which the future of Seiko would have been very different.

Kintarō Hattori, who had resolved to always be ‘one step ahead’, embarked on the difficult task of producing Japan’s first-ever wristwatch, and he succeeded. By 1913, the first Japanese-made wristwatch, ‘the Laurel’, hit the market, and even though at that time only about 30 watches could be made in a day, Kintaro had established a lead on the rest.

In 1924, one year after the Great Kanto earthquake, the company created the first Seiko-branded wristwatch. It was in the same year that Seikosha changed its trademark to “Seiko”; by 1929, Japan’s National Railway adopted its pocket watch as the official “Railway Watch”.

Successful production, and in 1956, Seiko released “The Automatic”, which was Japan’s first automatic wristwatch. Quartz technology was developed during the early 1960s so that by 1964, Seiko was equipped with 1,278 timing devices as it served as the Official Timer of the 18th Olympiad in Tokyo.

The world’s first commercial quartz wristwatch, “the Astron”, went on sale in 1969, positioning Seiko as one of the top leaders in the Horological world. Many other firsts followed, such as the first digital watch with a stopwatch function and the first diver’s timepiece with a titanium case, amongst others.

Today, Seiko is recognized as Japan’s most iconic watch brand that has earned the love and respect of enthusiasts and casual wearers all over the world.

Orient vs Seiko Watches: The Battle of Two Iconic Japanese Watch Brands

One thing Orient and Seiko have in common is their capacity to produce reliable timepieces at affordable prices. Their impressive range as watchmakers have made them a beloved favorite of watch wearers all over the world. For a giant watchmaker with over 100 years of exquisite craftsmanship, Seiko still isn’t ashamed to produce in the budget realm. 

Meanwhile, Orient has long occupied the spotlight for offering some of the best affordable mechanical watches, rivaling Seiko. It’s not often these well-respected Japanese watchmakers get put head to head, but they both offer fantastic, entry-level timepieces for anyone and everyone. 

If you’re searching for excellent watches labeled as quality, precise, accurate, and reliable for under $500, few are better choices than those offered by Seiko or Orient. That said, let’s move on to compare both brands. 

Brand Recognition

Brand recognition is the extent to which users of a commodity can correctly identify the characteristics of the product or service offered by the producers by just viewing the product or service’s logo. In short, it means how “aware” individuals are that your brand exists.

Although Seiko and Orient are similar in terms of their offerings and attract just about the same target audience, their identities are not, and this is one of the areas where they differ largely. 

Let’s start with Seiko. In September 2015, Seiko was recognized as ‘Brand of the Year’ at the World Branding Forum at Kensington Palace in London. The 2015-2016 award was given to the watchmaking legend in the watches category. This is something huge because the judging system was unique.

A total of 2,600 brands from 35 countries were nominated, and the winner was selected using a three-part process. The measures involved brand valuation by the World Branding Forum (a global organization dedicated to advancing standards in the branding industry), a consumer research project, and an online vote by the public. 

Seiko was selected alongside prestigious brands like Apple, Louis Vuitton, Mercedes Benz, and Google for having built a good reputation and trust amongst enthusiasts across the globe. 

This is not exactly the case for Orient. Even though the brand is widely known for being among the most affordable watch producers with a wide variety of offerings, Seiko stays on top when it comes to brand recognition.

Orient watches are well-known and highly sought-after in many Asian countries but not across the globe like Seiko.

Model Variety

Both Seiko and Orient are among some of the most versatile watch brands in the world. When it comes to model variety, expect to find a large number of elegant watches distributed into various collections based on functionality, focus, or theme. 

For Seiko, there are about seven iconic models that comprise high-quality watches, which all emphasize legibility and a well-balanced design. 

The first most popular model is Seiko Prospex. Seiko Prospex is a remarkable collection of durable watches for sports lovers and adventure seekers under the sea, on land, or in the sky. It consists of multiple sub-collections for a variety of uses, including dive watches that feature outstanding water resistance ratings of 1000 meters.

Next is Seiko Presage. Seiko Presage is a retro-inspired dress watch collection that represents the pure aesthetic virtue of Japanese culture and blends a good dose of vintage personality with it. 

The third model from the Japanese giant watchmaker is the famous Seiko Astron. This collection features versatile and stylish watches that are eco-friendly with solar-powered functionality.

Up next is King Seiko. King Seiko is the brand’s high-end watch lineup that blends exquisite elegance with Seiko’s usual well-attested commitment to quality and reliability. 

Seiko 5 Sports follows, and here you will find rugged and everyday tool watches that are highly affordable yet offer the highest quality of materials and style. The watches are athletic, built to last in extreme environments, and packed with cutting-edge technology, making them extremely popular.

Orient is best known for models that can be broadly categorized into tool watches and dress watches. This means that the brand focuses more on professional timepieces and also produces elegant watches for those who love to dress up. 

Like Seiko, Orient’s catalog is massive, with profound diversity. Watches from the brand occupy almost every price point. The Orient Mako collection is the most popular and consists of sports/dive watches. 

The Orient Star houses impressive complications and is also where you’ll find dress watches that beautifully combine Japanese craftsmanship and elegance. 

The Bambino line has affordable dress watches, while the Defender collection has rugged field watches. Suffice it to say that just like Seiko, there is an Orient for everyone, so both brands have extensive catalogs. 

However, Seiko is more innovative and customer-focused, so again, we see Seiko beating Orient in this category with a wide array of enchanting watches. Despite the diversity of the timepieces, however, there are foundational qualities that tie all of the watches together. 

Build Quality & Durability

Both Seiko and Orient have a reputation for offering high-quality, stylish, and reliable timepieces. When it comes to materials, both brands use a variety of elements to make their watches. You may not find gold, diamonds, and other precious stones in Seiko or Orient watches often, but you won’t be disappointed in what you see.

Seiko uses precious metals such as palladium, platinum, ruthenium, titanium, yellow gold, white gold, and gold fillings for its high-end watches. Many of the standard watches from the brand use regular metals like stainless steel, aluminum, and chromium, depending on the model. 

Alloys such as bronze are also often used for dive watches, and PVD coating is often applied to selected timepieces for color maintenance. Non-metals like ceramics, plastics, and rubber can also be found in a large number of its offerings. 

Orient watches are also designed to last a lifetime, and the quality can be seen in the materials used by the brand. 

Depending on the model, Orient watches are made of durable materials like silicon, which is solid but lightweight and non-magnetic, polyurethane, stainless steel, gold, bronze, aluminum, leather, rubber, and ceramic.

Both brands also use different types of crystal glass in their watches to protect the dial from damage. Seiko’s Hardlex crystal can be found in many entry-level timepieces, while sapphire glass is used for higher-priced watches. Orient uses mineral glass for some of its lower-end timepieces and sapphire crystal for mid to high-end watches.

Overall, both brands use the best materials for each price range which offers quality and precision. 

Various levels of water resistance are provided by Seiko and Orient for their watches. The basic water resistance rating for dive watches from both Seiko and Orient is around 200 meters, while the dress watches are splashproof. 

It’s not uncommon to find watches with up to 1,000 meters of water resistance, however. Examples are the rare Orient King Diver with 1,000 meters of water resistance and the Gradient Blue “Tuna” from Seiko, also with a water-resistant rating of 1000 meters.

Movements

When it comes to movements, both watches have built a reputation for accurate calibers, but Seiko, as usual, is a step ahead. Seiko watches are known to use three different kinds of movements, namely:

Quartz movements:

Seiko is recognized as the pioneer of quartz watches, and over the years, the brand has worked to improve the efficiency and quality of all its quartz watches. 

Seiko’s quartz watches are reported to have an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year to show how much the brand has focused on superior quality. Quartz watches are battery-powered and utilize electronic oscillators through a small quartz crystal that vibrates at a particular frequency and powers the watch. They require minimal servicing than their mechanical counterparts.

Spring Drive movements:

Spring Drive movement is a unique watch movement produced by Epson in Shiojiri. It works by combining the high rotational force of a mechanical watch with the advanced precision integrated circuit (IC) control system of an electronic watch.

It is of higher quality than some mechanical watches because it offers a power reserve of 72 hours in opposition to the standard 40-hour power reserve. Spring drive movements can be wound manually or automatically.

Kinetic movements:

Seiko kinetic movements utilize a small mechanism on the back of the caliber that converts the energy from the spinning of the wearer’s wrist into electrical energy, which is stored in a rechargeable battery. It is one of the more eco-friendly movements from the brand and includes calibers 5D44 and 9T82.

Mechanical and automatic movements:

Seiko’s mechanical movements utilize energy powered by gears and springs that are wound periodically. Automatic movements, on the other hand, use a self-winding mechanism. This means it operates as a result of the energy from the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. 

Unlike mechanical watches, you won’t need to manually wind an automatic watch. Examples of automatic movements can be found in the 4R family, such as Caliber 4R15, 4R16, etc.

Orient, on the other hand, has earned the respect of many aficionados and collectors globally because it designs and makes all its movements in-house.

Not only has the Japanese watch brand been making its movements, but Orient has also been upgrading them with avant-garde technicalities as the years run by.

Worth noting is the caliber 46 series. This series of movements happen to be one of the most popular in-house movements found in many entry-level timepieces. However, as expected, Orient has improved this movement, replacing it with the F6 series, which guarantees an average accuracy of  -15/+25 seconds per day. 

Many of Orient’s watches, including popular models like the Mako II and Ray I, feature the caliber F6. The movement has a power reserve of 40 hours with hacking and hand winding,

Price & Availability

The prices of Seiko and Orient watches vary widely. The average price of a Seiko begins from as cheap as $100 but moves on to as high as $10,000 and beyond. Orient has also built a reputation for producing high-quality watches at very affordable prices. 

Even with its in-house movements, a Ray II diving watch or a dress watch from the Bambino collection can be purchased for more than $250. The Mako ll costs more than these and is priced at around $350. 

Other affordable offerings are the quartz-powered chronograph, with prices starting at around $170. The Orient Star collection, however, commands higher prices that begin from $500 to over $2,000 for intricately skeletonized models.

Both Orient and Seiko watches are readily available and can be obtained from their authorized dealers across the globe or on the second-hand market.

Resale Value

Resale value is the monetary worth that an item holds over the course of its life, more like the price which can be realized from it when sold in the future.

When it comes to resale value, both brands do not increase in value. Once you leave the store with a new piece, you can be sure that its value has gone down by at least 40%. 

However, there are exceptions, as a few anniversary and milestone watches from Seiko are known to hold and/or increase in value over time. Also, if you are lucky enough to own a limited edition from Seiko, you should know that what you have is virtually guaranteed to hold its value.

Generally, if you are searching for a timepiece to resell in the future to earn an extra grand, Orient and Seiko are not the brands to look for. But, as I said, if the watches are from a limited edition or belonged to a widely loved and adored series that was discontinued, then expect the prices to appreciate by over 20%.

Orient vs Seiko Watches: Top Models Comparison

Both Orient and Seiko offer outstanding timepieces with distinct advantages. The top models we will compare are similar, and all demonstrate exquisite craftsmanship with superlative aesthetic sensibility. 

Seiko has a passion for pushing boundaries and is the originator of Japan’s horology culture. Orient, on the other hand, is respected for its low-cost in-house mechanical watches that display high-end inventions. Can Orient’s best timepieces stand up to Seiko’s mastery of the watchmaking industry?

Let’s find out!

Orient Kamasu vs Seiko Turtle

If there was any entry-level watch apart from the discontinued Seiko SKX that shook the watch community by storm, the Orient Kamasu is the one. Easily dubbed the value king of rugged timepieces, the Kamasu is one of the most impressive offerings from the Orient. 

The watch is packed with impressive features that are hard to get at its price range of around $200 to $300. Some of these remarkable specifications are the water resistance rating of 200 meters, an in-house movement with hacking and hand winding, and a sapphire crystal. 

The watch is adored for its incredible value considering the great build quality that punches way above its price point. It is also quite visually distinct, with vibrant sunburst dials presented in various colors that evoke nostalgic feelings that the SKX once did. 

The Kamasu comes in a 41.5mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish on the top and polished surfaces on the sides. The versatile diameter makes it wear very comfortably on various wrists, while the fitting height of 13 mm gives it the heft a dive watch should come with. 

It features a unidirectional bezel with an aluminum insert and smooth 120-click bezel action, which makes it quite easy to rotate. A flat sapphire crystal (yes, sapphire crystal!) protects the dial of the Kamasu, and this is a feature you won’t find on Seiko watches in the same price range.

The killer dials all come with a very pleasant handset and applied indices that appear to be floating above the dial. The watch is powered by the Caliber F6922, an in-house hacking and hand-winding movement with approximately 40 hours of power reserve.

The Seiko Turtle, on the other hand, first appeared in Japan under the name 6306 in 1976. It was nicknamed “Turtle” by the Seiko fanbase because the case of the 6306 has a sort of “cushion-shaped” oval case. 

The watch came and faded into oblivion like the SKX until 2016, when the cushion-shaped Turtle resurfaced in the Prospex collection as the SRP series.

The watch features an upgraded automatic movement, a crown located at 4 o’clock, and an increased water resistance rating from 150 to 200 meters.

The diameter of the stainless steel case is comparatively large at 44.3mm with several 45-mm variants known as King Turtle. However, the soft curves and relatively short lug-to-lug distance make the watch wear quite comfortably. 

There are a couple of dial options available to suit different tastes and gorgeous bezel colors like black, dark blue, blue and orange, and blue and red in circulation.

Seiko Turtle watches are powered by Seiko’s automatic 4R36, but there is a special edition, the 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation limited edition Ref. SLA033, which is powered by Seiko’s caliber 8L35. 

Other special editions like the Blue Lagoon, launched in 2017, the Orange Turtle Diver Nemo, released in 2018, and 2020’s Save the Ocean model exist to cater to the needs of collectors.

All Seiko Turtle versions have a water resistance rating of 200 meters, and depending on the reference, you can acquire them with rubber straps or a stainless steel bracelet with Seiko’s Diver Extender function.

Comparing these two high-quality watches is similar to comparing the two brands all over again. Both are great watches with similar features. The Caliber 4R36 and F6922 provide approximately 40 hours of power reserve each, and the two are robust dive watches with 200 meters of water resistance. 

What gives the Kamasu an edge over the Turtle model is the use of sapphire crystal and the fact that it is slightly cheaper than the Turtle.

If you want a robust dive watch that can survive serious adventures with dashing aesthetics, the Orient Kamasu is your best choice. Go for the Seiko Turtle if you want a popular and practical timepiece that can stand up to the challenges and stressors of everyday life. 

	Orient Kamasu	Seiko Turtle
Case Size	41.5 mm	44.3 mm
Materials	316L stainless steel	316L stainless steel
Water Resistance	200 m (20 bar, 656 ft)	200 m (20 bar, 656 ft)
Movement	Caliber F6922 (40 hours of   power reserve)	Caliber 4R36  (40 hours of   power reserve)
Strap	Steel bracelet	Stainless steel bracelets with practical extender function/ Rubber strap
Additional Features	Sapphire crystal	Limited Editions, Excellent lume
MSRP	$200	$350

Orient Bambino vs Seiko Presage Cocktail Time

The Bambino collection has been the flagship model of Orient for years. It features some of the most refined timepieces produced by the brand. 

It also mainly contains classic watches with excellent designs reflecting Japanese craftsmanship. As one of the best-selling collections, the Bambino features well-made retro dress watches with numerous design options for men and women.

The enthralling timepieces come in various sizes ranging from 40.5mm for men’s models to 36.4mm for women’s wristwatches.

The watch case is made from 316L stainless steel and comes in a smooth round form with a thin sloping bezel. A steeply domed mineral crystal is used to protect the dial. 

The height of the watch is around 11mm to 12.5mm for newer models and is perfectly structured to appear visually thinner than the dimensions suggest. A wide variety of dial options are available and range from Bauhaus-style to skeletonized dials. 

There are also some classical models with clean and balanced Roman numerals and a railroad minute track on the periphery. All the dials are legible, but not all feature luminescent material for low-light legibility; however, quality construction, balanced layout, and beautiful sunburst dials are just some of the few elements that unite them. 

Each model also features a modestly sized date display with chamfered edges at 3 o’clock. The depth rating of these timepieces is only about 30 meters, so they are just splashproof and should not be used for swimming.

The Bambino boasts a solid in-house movement, the automatic caliber F6724. Older models used the 48743, but it was upgraded and now features a stop-seconds mechanism and a manual winding option.

Meanwhile, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series is a collection that takes style to a whole new level. The very first timepiece from the line debuted in 2010 as a limited edition and was only available in Japan. Nevertheless, the Cocktail Time was silently reintroduced in the Presage line in 2016 and was made available globally.

The name of the watch is taken from a bar in Tokyo owned by Shinobu Ishigaki, and his outstanding methods and flavors served as inspiration for the watch designs. Timepieces in the Cocktail Time series feature stainless steel cases that measure a fitting 40.5mm in diameter with a variety of sunburst dials that gives off a distinct sparkling effect. 

Enchanting (and tasteful) dial varieties like ice blue, champagne, and chocolate brown add to the diversity of the line. Narrow tapered hour markers adorn the face of all the Cocktail Time dials evoking the stem of a cocktail glass. The watches are powered by movements from the caliber 4R family found in many entry-level dress and dive watches from Seiko. 

Again it is hard to pick a clear winner between the Bambino and Presage Cocktail Time as both models feature classic dress watches with in-house calibers and refined designs. However, the Bambino is ahead in terms of offering excellent value for money as a new piece can be gotten for around $170 to $200, while prices for the Cocktail Time start around $550. 

Special attention has been given to designing the dials of the Cocktail Time, leading to a superlative aesthetical allure compared to the Bambino. But the latter has countless interesting varieties and configurations to choose from. Both models are great for those looking to own an impressive dress watch to rock for a formal meeting or casual gathering.

	Orient Bambino	Seiko Presage Cocktail Time
Case Size	40.5mm	40.5mm
Materials	316L stainless steel	316L stainless steel
Water Resistance	Splashproof (30 meters)	50 Meters
Movement	Calibre F6724	Calibre 4R57
Strap	Leather Strap	Leather (calfskin)
Additional Features	Multiple versions & models	See-through case back, Some of the best dial finishing for the price
MSRP	$170 to $200	$550 to $900

Orient Defender II vs Seiko 5 Field Sports Style

The Defender II is the second generation of the Defender model from Orient. As the name implies, the watch is an authentic field watch rugged enough to withstand adverse conditions and versatile enough for the no-frills outdoor lifestyle. 

The Defender model, like many other field watches, draws its inspiration from vintage military timepieces and is rendered in a relatively simple design with a genuine military air. The focus is all on functionality and improved legibility, and the dial is specially constructed to allow the wearer to read the time in one glance long after the sun sets over the mountains. 

It is tough, durable, and well-made yet affordable and thus offers exceptional value for money.

The watches are presented in stainless steel with PVD treatment in some cases. The measurement of the case is about 42mm, with a lug-to-lug of 49.5mm and a thickness of approximately 12mm. 

Each one is completely satin-brushed to achieve a tool-like appearance and has a relatively large crown at 3 o’clock without crown guards. This makes it easy to grip and operate with gloves on. 

The watches are all water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and use mineral crystals to protect the dial. Though it’s not ideal for diving, it can comfortably handle swimming and splashes.

Only a few dial options are available, and all of them focus strongly on legibility. The perimeter of the dials features a sloped chapter ring on which the 60-minute markers are printed, giving the watch depth and character. 

Right where the chapter ring ends, the second markers are printed. The dial features applied hour markers which have a rectangular shape. The hour markers and handset are large and heavily lumed, and a neat date window sits at the 3 o’clock position. 

The Defender ll is powered by the automatic in-house Orient caliber F6B22 which provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The Seiko 5 is a well-known collection built on five established standards. The brand states on its website that the five core elements include water resistance, automatic winding, durable construction, screw-down crown, and day-date function.

The Sports Style model is a sub-series that is home to incredible sports watches with automatic in-house movements. Apart from having very accessible price points, the timepieces are built to be rugged and reliable. Like the Defender II, the utilitarian design approach and versatility of the Style model make it suitable for just about any occasion. 

The dial design is customary for a tool watch; extremely legible with large hour markers and a handset generously applied with Seiko’s LumiBrite. Like other models, different dial colors and straps are available, and the timepieces here are further segmented into field and pilot’s watches. 

The case diameter starts from 39mm (for example, the Ref. SRPG27K1) to 42.5mm (e.g. the SRPD59). Similar to the Orient Defender II, the Seiko 5 Field Sports Style is fitted with a low maintenance movement; the 4R36 with a daily accuracy between +45 and -35 seconds. 

It is also water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and features a mineral crystal like the Defender II, so there’s no difference apart from the fact that the Seiko 5 Field Sports Style is more recognized and popular. At the same time, the Defender II offers a greater value for money. Both watches are ideal for serious adventurers searching for a rugged and superbly functional field watch.

	Orient Defender II	Seiko 5 Field Sports Style
Case Size	42mm	42.5mm
Materials	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Water Resistance	100 meters/10ATM/330 feet	100 meters/10ATM/330 feet
Movement	Orient Caliber F6B22	Caliber 4R36
Strap	Stainless Steel	Stainless steel bracelets with practical extender function
Additional Features	Day-date display, 12/24 hours display.	Several models with different dial & strap options
MSRP	$170	$325

Orient Neo 70s Panda vs Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC769

The Orient Neo 70s Panda is a retro-inspired timepiece with a sporty flair. The watch is one of the best budget panda chronographs that combines functionality and classical design features, but the panda dial makes it extremely appealing.

The dial is pure and clean, with an angled chapter ring on the periphery where the seconds are printed. Three perfectly symmetrical chronograph sub-dials (24 hours, a 60-minute chronograph timer, and a second) at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions keep the watch balanced and unique.

The date window between 4 and 5 o’clock keeps the dial uncluttered while the baton hour markers and handset add to the aesthetical allure. The watch has a depth rating of 100 meters of water resistance and is powered by a solar meca-quartz movement. 

This means the movement is powered and charged directly from sunlight and can hold a charge for up to 6 months. The accuracy of quartz is also one of the unique features of the Neo 70s Panda, as it is very precise. Its accuracy rating per month is within +/- 15 seconds. The watch measures 42mm in diameter, including the crown with a 48mm lug-to-lug measurement and a height of 12 mm.

It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes on a stainless steel bracelet. 

Moving forward, the Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC769 inherits the iconic designs and aesthetics of the Speedtimer series from the 1960s. The watch is fantastic, and everyone who loves motorsport will be captivated by the racing vibes it gives off. 

The dimensions are fitting like the Neo 70s Panda. The round stainless steel case measures 41mm in diameter and has a height of 12mm. Unlike the Neo 70s Panda, the Solar Chronograph SSC769 features a sapphire crystal. The quartz solar watch is powered by the Caliber V172 with an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month. 

The quartz movement has some practical benefits and can hold a charge for up to 6 months. Both watches are priced at around $300.

	Orient Neo 70s Panda	Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC769
Case Size	42mm	41mm
Materials	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Water Resistance	100 meters/10ATM/330 feet	100 meters/10ATM/330 feet
Movement	Quartz (± 15 seconds/month accuracy, 6 months power reserve)	Quartz, Caliber V172
Strap	Stainless Steel Bracelet	Stainless Steel Bracelet
Additional Features	Chronograph function	Chronograph, Tachymeter, Sapphire crystal
MSRP	$240	$350

Orient Maestro vs Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE

The Orient Maestro is one of the most minimalistic watches out there that is available in a variety of dial colors. Much like the Bambino, the Maestro is an everyday dress watch with an enchanting beauty. 

It debuted in 2019 and features affordable watches with great build quality and durable movements. The Orient Maestro is presented in a sleek 40mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 11.9mm and a lug-to-lug size of 46.1mm.  The case is fully polished and features a thin bezel with a medium-sized push/pull crown at 3 o’clock. 

It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, which means it is suitable for everyday use as you can go swimming and snorkeling with it. The dial is clean, legible, and uncluttered with applied rectangular hour markers and slim mirror-polished hands. 

Few variants are available, including some sunburst versions, which play with light beautifully and render a vibrant appearance to the watch. There is a subtle date window at 3 o’clock in all models and a mineral crystal above the dial. 

It is powered by the in-house automatic Orient caliber F6722 visible through the transparent case back.

Like the Orient Maestro, the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE is a versatile, reliable, and utilitarian watch made for just about any occasion. Seiko decided to bring back everything we loved about the SKX (including the accessible price), and the SRPE model added a dash of elegance to all that.

The watches here are presented on a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter with a height of 11.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm. The general aesthetics of the watches is consistent with that of the average Seiko field watch. 

The dials feature dot hour markers interrupted by rectangular indices at 6 and 9 o’clock and a triangle at 12, while a day-date display is located at 3 o’clock. The main difference between the watch from Seiko and that from Orient is purely cosmetic, as they are both built with durability and strength in mind.

If you are looking for a “beater” watch that keeps utility in the spotlight rather than delicate finesse, the Orient Maestro is the better option two. 

If, however, you want an everyday tool watch with ample lume for enhanced readability, the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE comes in recommended. The SRPE is also more widely recognized, but, all in all, both watches are designed to tell time accurately in adverse environments or whilst on the move.

	Orient Maestro	Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE
Case Size	40mm	40mm
Material	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Water Resistance	100m/10ATM/330 feet	100m/10ATM/330 feet
Movement	Caliber F6722	Caliber 4R36
Strap	Stainless Steel Bracelet	Stainless Steel Bracelet
Additional Features	Exhibition case back	See-through & Screw case back
MSRP	$170	$295

Conclusion

Seiko and Orient are outstanding Japanese brands offering some of the best value in watches. As you can see from the in-depth comparison, both brands take advantage of modern technology and avant-garde designs to create timepieces, so their strengths overlap. That said, it’s just a matter of preference, for this battle has no clear winner. My advice? Add both brands to your collection!

So you want to buy a dress watch under $10,000? Excellent!! You already know you want something special. Whether you need it as part of your expanding collection of fine watches or you’re hunting for that one treasure that will become a family heirloom, getting the right dress watch can be daunting.

Reserved for business and formal occasions, a dress watch is an immaculate tribute to the fine art of watchmaking. The first appearance of a dress watch can be traced to the beginning of the 20th century when men began transitioning from pocket watches to elegant wristwatches. Dress watches are a must-have in any collection and are normally characterized by a fuss-free minimalistic design, making them pair flawlessly with suits, jackets, and other formal attires.

The inexplicable charm of a classic dress watch is known to bring untold satisfaction to the wearer, and this is just one of the many reasons why a dress watch will always be in vogue. From Patek Philippe’s Calatrava to Rolex’s Datejust 36, here are some of the best dress watches in the Haute Horlogerie universe under $10,000. 

What to Look for in Dress Watches Under $10,000

Whether you desire to have a quintessential status symbol in your possession or something practical and refined, taking your horological love home isn’t as simple as pulling out your credit card and saying I do. There are a couple of things you need to be informed about, which is why we put this short guide to help you make an informed decision.

Appearance

A timepiece is way more than a utilitarian timekeeping device. It is designed to significantly enhance looks and add an air of sophistication to your apparel, so consider the following.

The Case

Made up of the case back, bezel, and main body, including the lugs, the case of a dress watch is what protects the movement and gives a distinct character to the timepiece.

Every dress watch under $10,000 should have a classic, elegant, and refined case. Steel is the most ubiquitous material in use, even though gold, titanium, platinum, ceramic, and other hybrid materials are often used in the production of cases.

Look out for a fitting dimension depending on the size of your wrist. Most dress watches fall between 34 mm to 40 mm; however, be sure that the profile is thin enough to slide under your cuffs. It should also feature a highly scratch-resistant glass-like sapphire crystal and exquisite finishing.

Dial

Visible through the protective glass is the face of the watch or the dial. Its primary function is to display the time. But beyond that, the overall aesthetic allure of the entire timepiece depends largely on the dial. 

A true dress watch should have a dial void of all excesses. Look out for a dial with a clean, elegant, and minimalistic look with graceful numerals or hour markers and a simple handset.

Though there’s no hard and fast rule, it’s best to stick to black, gray, silver, or white dials with no unnecessary complications in the display.

Strap/Bracelet

The strap/bracelet of a watch is what fastens it around your wrist. It is also called a watch band and may be made of leather, rubber, plastic, or other materials. When it’s made from metal, it is called a bracelet. It is best to opt for a comfortable strap that exudes class and quality. 

The color of the strap is also important, and you should make a selection depending on your style preferences. While metal straps provide durability and are relatively easier to take care of, leather straps are more comfortable, lightweight, and fashionable.

Brand Reputation

Brand reputation is simply the public perception that customers, employees, and partners hold about a brand. Watch manufacturers take years of hard work to build a high degree of trust among their customers, which translates to the “status element” attached to different brands.

Swiss-made watches are reputed to be the best in the world, with legendary watchmakers who have built their enterprise upon the history and heritage of exquisite craftsmanship. Getting a watch from a reputable brand increases the watch’s value and attaches to it a timeless prestige.

There’s also the satisfaction that comes to the wearer just knowing that the watch brand they are wearing is recognized and appreciated. Buying your dress watch from a reputable brand that has built confidence and loyalty by consistently delivering high-quality watches to ensure longevity is important.

Build Quality & Finishing

The degree to which a timepiece is fit and free of all defeats is the build quality. For the build quality of a dress watch under $10,000 to be considered good, the quality of the materials used must be top-notch. Be sure to select a watch that is durable and will last for a very long time in good condition.

Check the spec sheet to find out what kind of material was used for the watch, and never buy a low-quality watch simply because it looks good. The finishing is a final touch performed to decorate the watch and offer it a more refined look. 

Movement

The movement (or caliber) of a watch is the internal engine that supplies energy to the timepiece and makes it run. It is one of the most important parts of the timepiece that drives whatever complication the watch features and moves the hands.

The three main types of movements include; quartz, manual-wind, and automatic. Quartz watches are powered by batteries and electricity. Automatic watches, on the other hand, are self-winding, while manually-wound watches require you to wind the crown every so often to avoid running out.

Mechanical watches are often appreciated more by collectors because they make excellent heirloom watches and are exquisitely decorated.

Value Retention

Here is one last crucial element; value retention. This is the difference between what you pay for a dress watch and what it eventually sells for a couple of years later. Not every luxury watch retains its value after you leave the store, and if you’re looking for a timepiece with a good return on investment, it’s best to consider this point carefully.

A couple of factors determine whether or not a watch will hold its value. They include brand prestige, rarity, aesthetics, and exclusive mechanical movements (especially if it’s in-house). Of course, you have to ensure that the watch is well maintained if you want it to retain its value, so treat your timepiece and all its accessories with as much care as possible.

The Best Dress Watches Under $10,000

1. Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)

Priced at $6,700, the Omega De Ville Trésor Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001 is a perfect demonstration of exquisite craftsmanship from one of the most iconic and famous luxury watch brands in the world. The dress watch has a superlative aesthetic sensibility and comes in a steel case that measures 40mm across.

The timepiece pays tribute to the first model of the Omega Trésor line, which was released way back in 1949. That said, the design and personality of Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001 encapsulates the bewitching charm of vintage watches from the 1950s.

The case has a sleek profile and measures 10.1mm in height. As you would expect from a reputable brand with decades of watch-making expertise, the case is highly polished throughout and features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

The domed opaline silvery dial is clean, uncluttered, and highly legible with hands and indexes in 18K white gold. The placement of the date window at 6 o’clock and the logo and brand name at 12 respects the elegant symmetry of the dial.

The watch houses the legendary 30mm Calibre 8910 that guarantees the Swiss industry’s highest standard of precision. It is visible via the transparent case back.

2. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW259

Grand Seiko is a fast-rising luxury watchmaker with divine prowess in crafting aesthetically magnificent watches. The brand is distinguished for being the premium sibling of the highly famous Japanese watch manufacturer; Seiko. Grand Seiko’s passion for pushing boundaries has made it a top-tier watchmaker today.

The Ref. SBGW259 from the Elegance Collection is an attestation to the creativity of the brand’s master craftsman. The timepiece, a recreation of the first ever Grand Seiko produced in December 1960, was launched in 2020 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of that icon.

The design codes are highly respected. The shape of the watch is identical to the first of its kind but now comes in a Brilliant Hard Titanium case exclusive only to the brand. The case now measures 38mm (as opposed to 35mm) and features the ‘Zaratsu polishing’, which makes Grand Seiko’s cases so attractive.

The dial is instantly recognizable as a production from the luxury brand and features perfectly finished mirror-polished hands and indexes executed in the traditional Japanese way with profound attention to detail. It is powered by the Calibre 9S64, which provides a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound.

3. Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (ref. 6651 1143 55B)

watches of all time. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has demonstrated exquisite craftsmanship and incomparable aesthetic sensibility in all its watches since its founding by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain in the year 1735.

Ultraplate means  “ultra flat”, and that is what sets the Ref. 6651 1143 55B apart. The classic dress watch features a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter and has a thickness of just 8.35mm. The slim profile of the watch, coupled with the short lugs, means the watch will easily accommodate a range of wrists.

The stark dial features polished silver Roman numerals affixed to the dial by hand. The slender, open-worked leaf hands bring depth to the simple design of the dial, while the discreet date window at 3 maintains the symmetry and adds to its appeal.

The Caliber 1151, with an ultra-slim height of just 3.25mm, provides a robust 4-day power reserve. The watch is priced at $10,400 and comes fitted with a classic black alligator strap. You can get it here.

4. Glashütte Original Sixties (ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04)

Glashütte is one of the most famous German watchmakers, firmly positioned among the top-tier watch manufacturers in the world. The Sixties collection debuted in 2007. The watches’ inspiration comes from vintage Spezimatic timepieces manufactured during the German Democratic Republic (GDR) era from 1949 to 1990.

The Ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04 is a unique one-of-a-kind timepiece that is enchanting, making it a highly coveted watch among collectors. The watch is housed in a 39mm stainless steel case with a height of 9.40mm. The diminutive dimensions are enhanced by short lugs and a curved sapphire crystal case back, making the watch exceptionally comfortable to wear.

The retro dial is the undisputed champion of the show and comes with striking features that will charm the wearer endlessly. The stick and Arabic numerals are slightly curved to homogenize with the curved dial.

The galvanized black dial is captivating with a matte surface that has a pronounced rough surface which adds depth to the watch. The watch is powered by a Glashütte Original manufacture movement, the Caliber 39-52, with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. You can get it here.

5. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme (ref. J007010240)

Founded in 1721 by Pierre Jaquet-Droz, Jaquet Droz is a luxury watch brand known for producing complex and intricate timepieces. The prestigious Maison, which is currently part of the Swatch Group’s Prestige and Luxury division, is the world’s 36th most recognized Swiss brand.

Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case, the Ref. J007010240 pays tribute to the first grande seconde model released in 1785. The pocket watch featured a graceful figure of eight made by intertwining large seconds counter at 6 o’clock and a smaller one at 12 o’clock for the hours and minutes.

The enchanting design was brought to life again in 2002 and remains Jaquet Droz’s flagship product with countless adaptations. The round case of the watch measures 11.52mm in height and is mounted on a velvety blue rolled-edge alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasps.

The silver dial, as the grande seconde model made 235 years ago, features the elegant figure-eight layout and is adorned with vibrant blued hands, applied markers, and a blue date ring for the pointer date. The watch is equipped with an in-house automatic movement, the Jaquet Droz 2660Q2, that provides a power reserve of 68 hours. Get it here.

6. Longines Master Collection Silver Dial 40mm (ref. L2.793.8.78.3)

The Master Collection from Longines features a lineup of extremely complicated and impressively simple mechanical watches produced to the highest possible standard. Longines is the oldest registered watch brand in the world, with a strong heritage in the watchmaking industry.

The Swiss Marque is famous for pioneering many legendary creations such as the ‘13.33Z’, which was the first ever Chronograph movement designed for a wristwatch. The Ref. L2.793.8.78.3 perfectly illustrates the exquisite craftsmanship that the brand exercises to meet and exceed the highest standards of precision, durability, and elegance.

The 18-karat pink gold case measures 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 9.80mm and a lug distance of 21mm. The silver “barleycorn” dial has a blasted finish that gives off a finely-grained texture. It is adorned with vivid blued steel hands that give it depth and character and painted Arabic numerals.

Decorated to Longines’s high standards, the transparent case back with sapphire crystal reveals the classic caliber L888. The self-winding mechanical movement beats at 25,200 vibrations per hour and guarantees a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

7. Rolex Datejust 36 (ref. 126234)

Everyone knows what a Rolex is and what it looks like, and despite being among the highest producers of luxury watches, the brand is firmly positioned among the most successful watchmakers with a class that is impossible to beat.

The Datejust is one of the earliest models from the brand that first debuted in 1945 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Rolex. The collection entails an amazing catalog of versatile, elegant, and high-quality timepieces that get die-hard enthusiasts and casual watch lovers hot under the collar.

Crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel, the Datejust 36 Ref. 126234 comes in a fully polished 36mm case with a mixed-finished Jubilee bracelet. The dress watch is only 12mm thick and has a lug-to-lug distance of 43.3mm, making it even more slender and sleek when worn.

The fluted bezel contains 18k white gold, while the middle case is made from OysterSteel. Ensuring a water resistance rating of 100 meters is the crown, which is fitted with the Twinlock double locking system.

The dial of Ref. 126234-0049 is blue and features the familiar Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock and 18k gold hour markers and hands. It is powered by the in-house caliber 3235, a certified Superlative Chronometer movement that offers a precision of 2/+2 seconds. It provides a power reserve of 70 hours and comes with a five-year guarantee.

8. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 3919)

Patek Philippe has been making exceptional watches since 1839, making it one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world. For almost two centuries, the Swiss watch brand has dedicated its efforts to mastering every aspect of fine watchmaking.

It is one of the last independent watchmakers famous for creating Haute Horology timepieces that meet and exceed the highest standards of elegance, durability, accuracy, and grand style.

The brand is also known to design and produce some of the most complicated mechanical watches in the world, so it doesn’t confine its skills to a single niche. The Calatrava model has been the gold standard of just what an iconic dress watch should be like since its appearance in the early 1930s.

It has remained Patek Philippe’s flagship dress watch for over eight decades, and the Ref. 3919 continues onward in this proud tradition with mesmerizing features. The 18k gold case measures 33mm in diameter and is just 6.5mm thick. The bezel features double layers of mini pyramid accents that add sophistication to the otherwise bland, understated dress watch.

The crisp white lacquer dial is clean, legible, and elegant with black Roman numerals, a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and leaf-style hour and minute hands. It is powered by the Caliber 215 PS movement, which provides approximately 44 hours of power reserve.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)

The Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is a watch that is both eccentric and striking. The patented case from Jaeger-LeCoultre started life as a practical solution for some British officers in India in the early 1930s. These men were distressed by the error of breaking the crystal glass on their watches repeatedly during polo matches.

The Reverso was a functional swiveling case with a rectilinear shape capable of being completely turned over. The invention was a trail-blazing novelty that immediately distinguished Jaeger-LeCoultre from other ubiquitous pocket and pendant watch producers. The Ref. Q713842J pays tribute to the first genuine icon and comes in an 8.51 mm thick case that measures 45.6 x 27.4mm (L x W).

The brand reports that the case is produced and hand-assembled by a specialized team, and the design of the dial is in line with the codes that laid the foundation of the first Reverso.

The opaline dial is straightforward, clean, and elegant with applied faceted hour markers, Dauphine-style hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is a rectangular railway minute track on the periphery of the dial in black print. 

The watch is equipped with the Manufacture hand-wound Calibre 822, which delivers a power reserve of 45 hours. It comes with a black Casa Fagliano-designed bi-material strap (leather/canvas).

10. Cartier Tank Française Large (ref. WSTA0067)

Established in 1847, Cartier is a world-renowned jeweler known for producing some of the most exquisite and ultra-high-end timepieces that have graced the wrists of celebrities. The luxury watchmaker is a favorite choice of royalty and celebrities alike, as its watches are often unique, elegant, and enchanting.

The Tank collection, in particular, is one of the famous models from the brand that was designed by Louis Cartier in 1917. Louis drew his inspiration from the Renault Tank FT, which the French forces used in the later stages of World War I. 

The Tank Francaise, which was a bestseller in the 1990s, made a bold comeback recently. The line now features elegant watches with contemporary features but still keeps the look of the armored vehicle it was named after. The shape of the watch is squared still and is presented with an integrated strap held between two straight parallel brancards.

The watch features a 36.5mm x 28.15mm stainless steel case with an octagonal crown in yellow gold at 3 o’clock. The crown is adorned with a blue cabochon, while the silvered flinqué dial is decorated with Roman numerals and a railroad minute track. 

Blued sword-shaped hands add elegance to the face of the watch, while a calendar aperture at 6 o’clock maintains the symmetry of the watch. It is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement with 38 hours of power reserve.

11. IWC Portofino Automatic (ref. IW356501)

IWC (International Watch Co. Schaffhausen) was founded by Florentine Ariosto Jones, a young watchmaker from Boston, in 1868. The brand is known to demonstrate an intuitive understanding of aesthetics coupled with precision and excellence at every stage of its production process. The Portofino Automatic is a signature model remarkable for its distinct timelessness and visually appealing minimalistic dial.

The watch comes in a 40 mm wide round case identical to the Portofino family. The height of the stainless steel case is 9.2 mm, and it is highly polished and refined with straight, thin lugs. The dial is clean and uncluttered yet elegant and very attractive.

The smooth silver-plated dial features a cute date window at 3 o’clock, a peripheral minute track, and applied silver-plated indices with Roman numerals XII and VI for 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively.

Time is indicated by a sleek and beautiful leaf-shaped hour and minute hand. Powering the watch is the automatic, self-winding Calibre 35111. The movement beats at a frequency of 28800 VPH (4 Hz), has 163 Components with 25 Jewels, and provides a power reserve of 42 hours.

12. Zenith Elite Moonphase (ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923)

The Ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923 is an elegant watch inspired by the aesthetic designs of classic watches from the 1950s. The timepiece is presented in a 40.5mm steel case. The ultra-thin in-house manufactured movement with a power reserve of 50 hours under the hood allows the case to have a thickness of just 9.35mm. This feature makes it the perfect dress watch, slim enough to slide in comfortably under your cuff.

The slate grey dial features a very simple seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and moon phase at 6. It is strikingly different due to the stamped sunray pattern on the surface that emanates beautifully from the center all the way to the periphery of the dial. The watch comes fitted with a gray alligator leather strap. 

13. Laine V38 Frosted

Torsti Laine is one of those iconic watchmakers you probably have no idea about but should. After he graduated from the Finnish School of Watchmaking, he worked with A. Lange & Söhne F.A. Lange, and showed such outstanding potential that ultimately earned him the Watchmaking Excellence Award in 2014.

He went on to start manufacturing elegant watches under his eponymous brand. The V38 Frosted comes in a stainless steel case that measures 38mm across and has a thickness of only 9mm. The beautiful case is fully polished and features a domed sapphire crystal on top with an anti-reflective coating. 

The dial is the star of the show and features a guilloche center with a frosted outer portion. An applied steel ring encompasses the inner section and separates it from the frozen area while also bordering a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is a minute track on the edge of the dial and applied Breguet-style numerals in white gold on the outer ring.

Visible through the case back is the Vaucher VMF 5401 micro-rotor movement with 160 components and 29 jewels. The visual appeal is very satisfying as even the edges are beveled and polished by hand. The watch is fitted with a natural tan Babele leather and is priced at approximately $10,000.

14. MeisterSinger Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold (ref. LS908G)

Founded in 2001 by Manfred Brassler and based in Münster, Germany, MeisterSinger is a luxury watch brand renowned for its single-handed watches. All the watches produced by the brand are extremely well made and feature iconic designs that fuse traditional style with present-day creativity.

The Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold watch is, in very simple terms, a breathtaking poetic piece bound to enchant the wearer endlessly. The watch comes in a stainless steel case that measures 41mm across with a lug width of 20mm and height of 12mm. The case has a slim bezel that takes the focus to the expansive dial.

The blue dial is a classic MeisterSinger with just one hand simultaneously indicating the hours and minutes. The layout is very familiar; however, there’s an oversized moon phase sitting at the upper half of the watch that looks very realistic. It is romantic, poetic, and beautiful.

There’s a circular date window at 6 o’clock and gold-plated applied hour markers that pair well with the moon (colored in gold), adding a luxurious touch to the watch. The exhibition case back offers a view of the MS Luna automatic movement, which is based on the Swiss Sellita SW220. The rotor offers a power reserve of 38 hours to the Ref. LS908G. You can get it here.

15. Louis Erard Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition (ref. 34238AA54.BVA95)

Founded in 1929, Louis Erard is a relentless fighter in the now sparse ranks of affordable luxury watches. The aim of the independent Swiss watch manufacturer has always been to make the most exclusive craftsmanship accessible.

That said, the Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition is a luxury watch that comes in a sleek 39mm stainless steel case. The case back is a pane of sapphire crystal which affords a beautiful view of the self-winding movement powering the watch. The self-winding Sellita SW261-1 will run autonomously for up to 38 hours when fully wound and has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz).

The Grand Feu dial is what confers luxury and elegance to the watch because the quality of an enamel dial is always unsurpassable. Due to the complexity of the craft, many watch brands shun the production of such dials, but the results are often satisfying. 

The lustrous appearance of the dial here has an eternal-like depth that is very captivating. It is adorned by vivid blue Roman numerals and triangular batons which denote the hours. The 12 o’clock index is red, providing a much-welcomed liveliness to the dial and matching very well with the red-grained calfskin leather strap on the watch.

Conclusion

Dress watches have evolved significantly since they first appeared in the 20th century. Even though the classic rules for what a dress watch should represent have softened over the years, the quintessential design codes have remained the same. 

That said, dress watches will always be the meeting point of style and etiquette, so don’t hesitate to treat yourself to an exquisite timekeeper!

A leather strap has primarily one function; to hold your timepiece securely around your wrist so that time can be discovered at a moment’s notice. Dubbed an “accessory within an accessory”, watches with leather straps go beyond serving as a utilitarian component to being a major decorative element.

Since the stone age, up until now, the use of leather has evolved but not its versatility in the fashion industry. From sandals to shoes and straps, fashion trends featuring leather will always be popular among men and women.

Durable, fashionable, and appealing, high-quality leather watches are prized jewels because the older they get, the stronger they become. But not all leather straps are made equally, and that’s where this article comes in. Strap in and buckle up because today, we shall be looking at the 15 best watches with leather straps! 

About Watches with Leather Straps

The band of a timepiece is what makes the clock or watch, a wristwatch. Bands made from metals are referred to as bracelets, while those made from other materials, such as leather, rubber, etc, are collectively referred to as straps. Even though the star of the show is often the dial, the strap of a watch can either make or mar the entire look of the watch. 

Leather straps have been used for decades and are the most desirable strap option. They are a timeless classic that has held their appeal since their first appearance in the horological world and are a favorite of many enthusiasts and collectors. 

Apart from providing profound comfort to the wearer such that the watch does not hurt the wrist even in extreme conditions, they are versatile and alluring.

When purchasing a timepiece with a leather strap, you must take the brand into consideration, strap maker, and type of leather. The best leather quality is “full grain” leather. 

This means the entire hide – with densely packed fibers – is used, making it extremely strong and able to withstand decades of use. Top grain leather is the 2nd highest grade, followed by genuine leather and bonded leather.

Apart from being of very high quality, a good leather strap must be able to maintain its suppleness and surface pattern throughout its lifetime. It must also be breathable, water resistant, malleable, and highly durable.

The History Of Leather Watch Straps

Leather watch straps were one of the first strap options for watches. The first instances date back to the late 19th century when “wristlets” were manufactured to strap the pocket watches of soldiers on their arms with leather.

The British soldiers fighting in the Burma and Boer wars needed all the hands they could get, and since pocket watches required a free hand, they had to innovate a way to tell time.

WW1 began in 1914, and rifling through pockets for a watch was not recommended in the crises of the trenches. It is even reported by the Times that the wearing of wristwatches by soldiers was made obligatory by the telephone and signal service two years into WW1.

Watch manufacturers quickly noted a rising demand for men’s wristwatches, particularly from soldiers, and in a short time, the production of watches with leather straps skyrocketed. These leather straps initially looked different from the ones we have today though. 

They came with a sort of cup or open face to hold the pocket watch with loops of wire soldered onto the sides of the case to fasten the leather strap.

The war came and passed (and came to pass), but the core spirit of watches with leather straps is as intact today as it was after the world war.

Should You Buy A Watch With A Leather Strap?

A watch with a leather strap is an important part of the everyday carry world. Apart from being an accessory that illustrates both personal style and reliable utility, leather straps are hard to beat in versatility.

They look great with a suit on the red carpet and will steal the show at the gym even when you decide to lazy around on the couch. They come in countless sizes, textures, and colors, so they are best for generic circumstances in life, and everyone should have watches with leather straps in their collection.

However, they are situation-dependent, so you might want to try a suede strap for casual swimming and hanging out at the beach. That said, it’s best to avoid taking your leather strap where it might get wet. They pair with anything and have a bit of texture and visual interest that will fit into any style, especially formal situations.

When it comes to formality, the darker the strap, the more formal it is. Black is the smartest and most popular option, but you can mix and match dark browns, oxblood, or navy for something exotic and subtly different.

The 15 Best Watches with Leather Straps

1. Rolex Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52508-0006)

If there’s one word synonymous with exclusivity, extravagance, and luxury, it’s Rolex. The brand needs no introduction. It is the world’s most iconic and ultra-high-end company with decades of Haute Horlogerie prowess and technical know-how.

The Perpetual 1908 Ref. 52508-0006 is one of the most significant debuts from the world-famous watchmaker in recent years that exudes quality and nobility. The Swiss Marque prides itself on its commitment to delivering highly distinctive and excellent watches, and this timepiece is a fine example of the brand’s horological brilliance. 

The understated watch is presented in a striking 39mm case in 18 ct yellow gold with short fine lugs and a thin profile of 9.50mm. There’s a domed sapphire crystal protecting the dial and another crystal on the case back. Finally, Rolex shows off its movement!

The design of the dial is balanced, straightforward, and elegant, with a glossy, lacquered-like finish that evokes the flawless gilt dials of vintage watches. The white dial is highly legible with black printed railroad tracks for the minutes and seconds and applied Arabic numerals for hours at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock.

The alligator leather strap wears like a charm and is fitted with a nouvelle folding clasp, “Dual clasp”. This feature ensures the watch always sits in the center of your wrist.

2. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5227G)

Patek Philippe is another Haute Horlogerie brand that needs no introduction. The Genevan watch manufacturer is one of the best luxury watch brands with impeccable credentials and a rich history of horological experience.

The Calatrava is the flagship model of Patek Philippe, with a lineup of highly coveted and quintessential classic dress watches. The Ref. 5227G-010 is simply an icon done the Patek Philippe way with an undeniable charm.

Elegant, understated, yet typical Patek Philippe, the watch exudes luxury. It is presented on a 39mm white gold case with flawlessly curved flutes which emanate from the caseband and taper gently towards the lugs. The polished lugs are short, allowing the black leather strap to cuddle and encircle the wrist in a comfortable embrace.

The handmade crocodile strap tapers nicely towards the white gold clasp and has a handsome matte finish and subtle texture that reeks of prestige and nobility while allowing the watch to remain the star of the show.

The black dial provides an excellent canvas on which the white gold dauphine-shaped hands graciously proclaim the hours and minutes with clear precision. The highly coveted timepiece is simply an example of horological brilliance. 

3. Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day-Date (ref. 4400E/000A-B437)

When a watch enthusiast mentions the ‘Holy Trinity’ of Swiss watchmaking, everyone already knows who he is referring to. But if you don’t, the Holy Trinity of Swiss watchmaking is made up of 3 ultra-high-end brands. These are Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin, with an unmatched legacy of greatness. 

Vacheron Constantin was founded in Geneva in 1755 and has remained an indisputable luxury watch brand with avant-garde horological timepieces. The FiftySix Day-Date Ref. 4400E/000A-B437 is a charming synthesis of evocative vintage vibes and contemporary exclusivity.

The watch is a modern interpretation of a legendary model from 1956 and is presented on a stainless steel case that measures 40mm across. The ‘edgy’ design of the case is mesmerizing, with sharp portions between the round bezel and the lugs inspired by the sides of the Maltese cross. 

The dial has a sort of ‘retro science lab’ look, evocative of the 1950s, with two horizontally aligned sub-dials at 9 and 3 o’clock denoting the day of the week and the date, respectively.

The watch is mounted on a dark grey alligator leather strap with a calf inner shell. The calf inner lining on the leather strap keeps you feeling warm and cozy but goes further to prevent damage from moisture and sweat.

4. Panerai Luminor Base Logo (ref. PAM01086)

Panerai is an Italian luxury watch manufacturer founded in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai. The brand has a solid reputation for manufacturing some of the most reliable and groundbreaking innovations, such as the Lab-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech, unveiled at SIHH in 2017. Many of the designs from the high-end watchmaker are breathtaking, and the Ref. PAM01086 is one such with an unusual crown cover.

The watch is presented on a stainless steel case that measures 44mm in diameter and has a height of 13.5mm. The unusual crown cover is simply a crown guard patented in 1955 by Panerai.

The watch is certainly for larger wrists but has a subtle cushion shape and a small lug-to-lug distance of 49.5 mm, making it wear more comfortably than its dimensions suggest. The dial is classical, balanced, elegant, and discreet, with nothing extravagant or particularly alluring.

The hands and indexes have a generous application of high-quality SuperLuminova C3, so legibility is excellent. But the leather strap… how very aesthetically pleasing it is! The handmade dyed beige strap is made from natural leather and features cream-colored stitching and calfskin lining.

5. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503608)

Famed for pioneering the use of ceramic and titanium in watchmaking, IWC is a highly respected brand best known for its luxury aviation watches. Apart from being a leader in the production of complicated and ultra-high-end watches, the Swiss Marque has been standing since 1868. 

This Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar flaunts the giant watchmaker’s mechanical prowess in a big, bold, and GREEN timepiece! The watch is presented in a large stainless steel case that measures 46.2 mm in diameter, so yeah, it was intended for larger wrists only. I can’t even imagine this watch on a 15 cm wrist!

The watch further adheres to the “Big Pilot’s Formula” with a thickness of 15.4mm. The brushed case also has a knurled and oversized onion-shaped crown and a screwed case back that keeps it water-resistant to 60 meters.

The dark green dial has a sunray-brushed effect and features 4 subdials at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock for the moon phase, date and power reserve, month, weekday, and small seconds. The green leather strap is sleek, refined, and fashionable with steel rivets, a folding clasp, and IWC’s practical EasX-CHANGE system.

6. Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

Omega is a brand that has consistently demonstrated excellence in all its inventions. While the luxury watch brand is proud of its rich history and strong ethos, the company is also innovative and employs avant-garde technicalities and machinery.

The Globemaster is one of those cutting-edge inventions that can confidently stand toe-to-toe with its Rolex equivalent. The watch is inspired by the legendary Constellation timepieces of the 1950s and 1960s and is powered by one of the most technically advanced movements from Omega. 

The Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8900 is a revolutionary anti-magnetic movement tuned to stringent chronometer standards making this timepiece synonymous with excellent performance.

The breathtaking sun-brushed blue dial is an evocation of the pie-pan dials of the vintage Constellations from the 1950s and features a simple date window at 6 o’clock. The blue handmade leather strap has a distinctly luxurious feel and is crafted from crocodile skin. 

The high-quality strap is fully grained, which means it will last long and withstand wear and tear without losing its sheen and luster. You can get this icon right here.

7. Blancpain Air Command (ref. AC02 12B40 63B)

When in 1735 Jehan-Jacques Blancpain started making watches in a small workshop on the upper floor of his house at Villeret, he planted the seeds of a horological empire that would defy easy categorization and labels.

Famous for its Fifty-Fathoms watch, the Swiss brand has continued to remain at the top board of Haute Horology thanks to its numerous high complication and iconic watches.

First launched in the 1950s, the Air Command is one of the highly coveted flagship models with pleasing aesthetics and top-notch technicality. The watch is presented on a 42.5 mm titanium case with a bidirectional titanium bezel with a blue ceramic insert. The case features alternating brushed and polished surfaces, giving it a rather sporty look.

The flawless deep blue dial beams brilliantly and just gives off a futuristic look that is reinforced by the sunray-brushed surface. The highly legible dial features snailed chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock and a tachymeter scale on the outer edge.

The calfskin strap comes in a matching blue color and has been finely waxed, giving it a vintage and streaked lightning effect. Get this icon right here.

8. Breguet Classique (ref. 5177BB/12/9V6)

Famous for revolutionizing watchmaking by inventing the tourbillon in 1801, Breguet is one of the oldest surviving watchmakers with an exceptional standard of horological prowess. The Classique 5177BB/12/9V6 is an exquisite, ultra-high-end creation inspired by 19th-century pocket watches from Breguet.

The watch is presented on a flawlessly polished 18kt white gold case that measures 38mm by 8.8mm. Among other things, it is the true rebirth of a classic with long, narrow lugs that makes it wear slightly larger than its dimensions indicate.

Since many of the design details are derived from vintage pocket watches, the dial is traditionally styled but this time with a contemporary twist. The exquisite guilloche textured dial comes on a silvered 18kt gold plate and has been engraved with an intricate “pannier” weave pattern that is both charming and evocative of the good old times.

It features blued “Breguet” style hands and a fine hour and minute chapter ring with black Roman numeral hour markers & dot minute markers. The strap of the watch is a solid black alligator/crocodile leather with a tang buckle.

The band features an elementary design that shows off the natural characteristics of the leather superlatively. Check it out and get it here.

9. Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic (ref. 517.CX.0710.LR)

Hublot (French for “bullseye” or “porthole”) was founded in 1980 by Italian Carlo Crocco in Switzerland. From the onset, Mr. Carlo aimed to produce eccentric watches with groundbreaking technology that would command the attention of the Horological world.

The brand’s obsession with unusual materials in the making of timepieces made them bold enough to combine gold and rubber in the same watch for the first time in history. The Classic Fusion Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic is one of those eccentric innovations that elegantly display the technical craftsmanship of the brand.

The watch is presented on a 45mm satin-finished and polished black ceramic case with contemporary aesthetics. Elegance rules supreme with the sapphire skeletonized dial of the Ref. 517.CX.0710.LR just creates a mystical and bewitching atmosphere unique to the wearer.

The watch also features a splendid moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock and is powered by a self-winding moon phase movement, the HUB1131, with a power reserve of 42 hours. The black alligator leather strap (the most luxurious and durable of all Crocodilians) is flexible, hypoallergenic, and significantly superior in quality. Get this flawless beast right here.

10. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY007

Grand Seiko is the premium sibling (and luxury arm) of Seiko that produces elegant watches with exclusive movements and the highest-grade materials. The SBGY007 is a timepiece that reinstates the brand’s desire to propagate rich and exciting Japanese traditions in a contemporary package.

The watch is presented in a mirror-polished stainless steel case that measures a fitting 38.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.2mm. The lug-to-lug width is 43.7mm, and you’ll be pleased to discover how beautifully the lugs curve to embrace your wrist.

The dial is simple, clean, and understated with a wave ripple-like texture produced by hammering a mold with different types of hammers. Under the hood, the 9R31 movement, accurate to +/-1 second per day, provides a power reserve of 72 hours.

The watch is mounted on black crocodile leather fastened by a threefold clasp with push button release. The leather is solid and possesses a one-of-a-kind appearance. It also features the brand’s embossed logo on the underside. Check it out here.

11. Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 (ref. 01 473 7786 4065-07 5 19 22FC)

The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 Ref. 01 473 7786 4065-07 5 19 22FC is an elegant mechanical watch equipped with the new caliber 473. The Caliber 473 is a robust and reliable movement with a five-day power reserve and a 10-year warranty. 

The movement was built and designed from the ground up by Oris, and the Hölstein-based watch manufacturer reports that it took four years to create it. Like the caliber 400 series, it is accurate to within -3/+5 seconds a day. Functions of the movement include powering the hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator, and pointer date.

The dial of the watch is captivating and features a peculiar blue shade that resembles the water’s surface. It is adorned with Arabic numerals and a red arrow-shaped pointer that indicates the date on the periphery. There is a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock also.

The watch is presented on a textured brown strap made from sustainably sourced deer leather. Deer leather is one of the softest leather options on the market that is loved for its supple thinness and breathability. The strap also features a sophisticated butterfly folding clasp with a seamless adjustment system.

12. Longines Spirit 37mm (ref. L3.410.4.53.0)

Longines is a Swiss brand with a strong heritage in the watchmaking industry. The prestigious watchmaker has been in business since 1832 and is famous for creating the first Chronograph movement, ‘the 13.33Z’.

The Longines Spirit is a vintage-inspired collection with contemporary aesthetic and technical features that pays tribute to the brand’s past. The collection has a lineup of elegant watches, all paying homage to the exceptional men and women who, by a display of courage, left their mark on history, particularly in the aviation sector.

The Ref. L3.410.4.53.0 is presented on a 37mm stainless steel case that is highly advertised as a women’s alternative on the brand’s website but could be worn by men as well. The case has a height of 11.7mm and is finely executed with high-quality finishings on the top, mid-case, and periphery of the bezel.

The sunray-brushed blue dial is also excellently designed with sharp, luminous Arabic numerals. The blue calf leather strap is elegant, discreet, and slightly vintage, with contrasting topstitching that perfectly compliments the dial.

13. NOMOS Club Campus 38 Cream Coral (ref. 725)

NOMOS is a young independent watch brand founded by Roland Schwertner in 1990. The Glashütte-based watch manufacturer is famous for its clean and modernist aesthetic designs and is also the largest manufacturer of mechanical watches in Germany.

The Club Campus 38 Cream Coral is a lighthearted spirit watch that is just as refreshing as it is enthralling. The watch is youthful, free, and uncomplicated and is presented on a 38 × 8.5mm stainless steel case with a closed back and 100 meters of water resistance. The cream coral dial delivers a nice dose of fun and is adorned with a fine combination of Roman and Arabic numerals. 

The hands and hour markers have white luminous inserts to keep the watch highly legible in low-light conditions. The movement underneath the hood is NOMOS’s hand-wound Alpha caliber with 43 hours of power reserve when fully wound. The watch is worn on a velour leather gray strap that has a unique velvety feeling. It is also extremely robust and breathable.

14. Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (ref. H38416711)

The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a vintage-inspired reissue of a 1968 signature piece that offers a sporty but classic look. The Swiss watch brand was founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, in 1892 and is famous for producing beautifully designed and highly precise timepieces.

The Ref. H38416711 comes in a fully polished 316L stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter and 14.45mm in height. Flanking a large, signed crown at 3 o’clock are two oversized pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, giving the timepiece a unique retro vibe.

The panda dial features two snail-patterned subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock. The one is a small seconds counter, while that on the right is a 30-minute counter. The watch is fitted with a comfortable 20mm black calf leather strap with matching stitching and a stainless steel folding clasp buckle.

Calfskin leather is a fantastic choice because it is lighter weight and more supple than the ones derived from older cows. Check it out here.

15. Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB121

The first Seiko Alpinist, the Laurel Alpinist, was released in 1959. The watch was originally intended for mountain men who needed a reliable watch that could put up with the rugged terrains without sacrificing accuracy. 

The Alpinist has evolved but remains one of the greatest legends produced by Seiko that is appreciated by thousands of watch enthusiasts across the globe. The Ref. SPB121  is a modern reinterpretation of the 1959 model and features a balanced mix of vintage and modern-day elements.

Measuring a fitting 39.5mm by 13.2mm, the brushed stainless steel case has a polished bezel and is topped with an AR-coated sapphire crystal. The olive-black dial features a beautiful sunray pattern with a gilded internal rotating compass track on the perimeter.

The watch comes mounted on a luxurious brown strap, crafted from premium quality crocodile embossed calf leather. The strap has a waxed finish with a brown matching stitch and a steel button deployment safety clasp. Get it here.

16. Ballon Bleu de Cartier

Even if you’re familiar with the brand name, there’s a chance you might have missed out on the beauty of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier. To be honest, even though Cartier isn’t high on my list, this is a fantastic timepiece with a reliable leather band.

This includes a 40mm steel case and a Roman numeral dial with convex curves that look great from every angle. I’m a big fan of mechanical features, which is why I have to mention the watch’s 1847 MIC Caliber movement. It features seamless automatic winding, and the blue steel sword-shaped hands are a sight to see for anyone.

When I’m wearing the watch, I find myself appreciating the durability of the watch band, as you can feel it to the touch. Not only will it hold up in the long term, but it will also look and feel beautiful on all sides.

I consider this watch a great choice for everyday wear and a luxurious choice that might as well be a family heirloom. Cartier never disappoints, and the multi-layered quality in this watch isn’t hard to see from my standpoint.

Conclusion

Leather straps have undergone many changes since their first appearance when pocket watches moved onto men’s wrists, but not their peerless elegance and sophistication. 

The legacy of leather straps continues onward, and today, many designers and watchmakers create very high-quality leather straps in a wide variety of styles and price points. That said, if you haven’t added a watch with a leather strap to your collection, remember it’s a necessity, and the clock is ticking.