Anne Bensons, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 5 of 9

 

Author: Anne Bensons

Why are rolex so expensive

When it comes to luxury watches, few names command the same level of admiration and recognition as Rolex. With a history spanning over a century, Rolex has established itself as a symbol of precision, craftsmanship, and enduring style.

Long desired by horologists and casual watch-wearers alike, Rolex remains the number one timepiece watch enthusiasts want to own when they “make it.” They may purchase all the Rolex wannabes from low and mid-range brands at first, but when they finally become successful, they buy a Rolex watch.

However, entering the elevated world of Rolex ownership is expensive. Very expensive. Below we will take a look at the reasons for the high prices of Rolex watches and all the factors influencing them.

About Rolex Watches

Wilsdorf’s relentless quest for excellent watches in both form and function paved the way for a unique kind of watchmaking. Currently, the luxury watch giant produces about a million timepieces each year, dominating a quarter of the luxury watch market, but Rolex had a very humble beginning. 

The plan of action to boost Rolex watches from time-telling devices to luxury collectibles can be traced to some marketing decisions made in the 1960s. From the onset, Wilsdorf understood the appeal of essential precision watches for professionals and adventurers and secured the brand’s link with luxury. 

Beyond its horological significance and investment potential, owning a Rolex watch is a truly immersive experience. Rolex has meticulously crafted its brand image and customer experience, ensuring that every aspect of owning a Rolex reflects the values of luxury, precision, and timeless elegance.

From the elegant boutiques designed to exude sophistication to the attentive and knowledgeable staff, Rolex strives to create a seamless and exclusive shopping experience. The brand also emphasizes customer service and after-sales support, offering maintenance services and warranties to ensure that Rolex watches continue to perform at their best for generations.

On average, the price range for most Rolex stainless steel watches falls between $7,000 – $12,000 MSRP. Different factors ranging from collection popularity to materials, complications, and movement all affect the price of a Rolex watch. 

Rolex remains the leader in the luxury watch market despite many prestigious high-end Swiss watch brands crafting tons of highly coveted watches. As a family heirloom, the longevity of each Rolex watch is a testament to its quality and craftsmanship.

Rolex watches are crafted from some of the best materials and can be obtained from any of the brand’s 1,816 authorized retailers around the world. However, it is very difficult to buy most models directly from authorized dealers. As a matter of fact, one can spend months or even years on a waiting list, making prospective buyers flock to the secondary market. 

The secondary market has been a thorn in the flesh of many luxury watch manufacturers, but it contains an endless selection of new and secondhand watches at prices not bound to the MSRP.

In addition to the prestige and cult following status that specific models have gained, fans of the brand as well as newcomers, are willing to invest large amounts of money in a single Rolex watch.

Rolex’s commitment to philanthropy is worth mentioning as well. The brand has established various partnerships and initiatives to support environmental conservation, scientific exploration, arts and culture, and more. This dedication to making a positive impact adds a layer of significance and pride to owning a Rolex watch.

Rolex is ranked the third most recognized Swiss brand, only behind Nescafe and Nestle, and is the 57th most powerful brand in the world. 

The History of Rolex

Rolex was founded in 1905 in London by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis under the name “Wilsdorf and Davis” in London, England. The company initially focused on the distribution of watches, sourcing movements from Swiss manufacturers. However, Wilsdorf had the vision to create wristwatches that were not only precise but also reliable and durable.

In 1908, Wilsdorf changed the name of the brand to Rolex. He desired a name that was short enough to fit on the dial and easy to pronounce. Rolex was chosen because, in addition to meeting the aforementioned criteria, he thought it was onomatopoeic, sounding like a timepiece being wound.

Wilsdorf’s commitment to accuracy made the British government award a Class A precision certificate to a Rolex watch as early as 1914. This made it the first wristwatch to pass stringent durability and precision tests, traditionally given only to marine chronometers.

Wilsdorf’s early display of considerable talent for publicity was an exciting distinction that paved the way for Rolex’s unsurpassable recognition. In 1919, operations were moved from England to La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and a year later, the company’s name was officially changed to Rolex SA.

Rolex’s reputation for producing robust tool watches began to take shape in the early 20th century. They introduced the Oyster case in 1926, a significant innovation in watch design. This achievement demonstrated their commitment to accuracy and set the stage for their future advancements in watchmaking.

The Oyster case featured a hermetically sealed and waterproof system, protecting the watch’s movement from dust, moisture, and shocks. This launch was a game-changer, as it made Rolex watches highly reliable and suitable for various demanding environments. In 1927, Rolex achieved another milestone when Mercedes Gleitze, a young English swimmer, wore an Oyster watch while attempting to swim across the English Channel. 

This event marked the first successful demonstration of the Oyster case’s waterproof capabilities and solidified Rolex’s reputation for producing durable timepieces. While Rolex initially focused on creating reliable tool watches, the brand’s reputation gradually evolved and began to be associated with luxury and prestige. 

This transformation was driven by a combination of factors, including advancements in design, marketing strategies, and influential partnerships. In the 1930s, Rolex introduced the Rolex Perpetual movement, which featured a self-winding mechanism powered by the wearer’s wrist movements.

This innovation eliminated the need for manual winding and further enhanced the convenience and practicality of Rolex watches. The introduction of the Perpetual movement solidified Rolex’s position as a pioneer in watchmaking technology.

During the mid-20th century, Rolex established its iconic status by creating timeless and distinctive watch models. The Rolex Submariner, released in 1953, was the first timepiece to be rated water-resistant up to 100 meters. It quickly gained popularity among professional divers and watch enthusiasts, becoming an emblem of adventure and exploration.

In 1956, Rolex unveiled the Rolex Day-Date, the first wristwatch to display the date and day of the week spelled out in full. This watch became a symbol of success and prestige, often referred to as the “President’s watch” due to its popularity among world leaders, celebrities, and influential figures. Rolex’s association with high-profile individuals and events further elevated its status as a luxury brand. 

Over the years, Rolex watches have been favored by prominent personalities, including actors, athletes, and politicians, further cementing their reputation as status symbols. The brand’s marketing campaigns have also played a crucial role in shaping its luxury image. 

Rolex has consistently emphasized the craftsmanship, precision, and elegance of its timepieces through carefully curated advertisements and sponsorships of prestigious events. These innovative efforts solidified Rolex in the Horological world as a symbol of excellence and success.

8 Reasons Why Rolex Watches Are So Expensive

1. Brand Recognition

Rolex watches are so expensive because they are crafted by Rolex, the apotheosis of Haute Horology. In case you didn’t know, Rolex is the single most recognizable brand in the world. It is the number one producer of G.O.A.T. models aplenty, the peak of all that luxury stands for, the symbol of class and prestige. 

Rolex is representative of precision, functionality, timeless design, elegance, and sophistication in the world of Horology. All of their watches command such high figures because it is Rolex! Rolex has created many cult collectibles for over 100 years and many coveted novelties.

Hans Wilsdorf labored intensely to build a solid brand reputation, and today, over a century later, it shows no sign of slowing down as there is an ever-increasing demand in timekeeping circles.  

The company’s outstanding commitment to branding, unsurpassable quality, elegant designs, first-rate accuracy, and super reliable luxury timepieces places it in the highest echelons of watchmaking and craftsmanship. Understandably, this affects the price point of all its watches. 

I bet Hans Wilsdorf could never have guessed that a couple of years into the future, people would be willing to spend 1,000 times the original price on a vintage Daytona. 

According to Statista, an online portal specialized in data gathering and visualization, brand awareness of Rolex in the United States is at 87%. It is also ranked as the most reputable watch company in the World. 

2. Materials

If you’ve ever flicked through Rolex’s vast watch catalog, I’m sure you wanted to know what on earth was used to make such exquisite watches. From lustrous gold to sturdy platinum, Rolex watches are made with some of the best materials on earth. It’s hard to find watch manufacturers who guarantee excellent standards over a long period, but the Swiss giant has consistently stayed ahead of the curve through constant innovation. 

Apart from having several proprietary materials produced entirely in-house, the brand rigorously selects the materials for each timepiece. These materials are more expensive than traditional watchmaking components.

Oystersteel is the first and most ubiquitous material used for Rolex watches. It is a high-performance in-house steel of grade 904L, that the brand began using in the year 1985. It is particularly resistant to corrosion and offers an exceptional finish once polished. 

It is used primarily in the chemical and aerospace industries and is what guarantees the robustness of Rolex steel watches.

In the early 2000s, the Swiss Marque began creating exclusive 18kt pink gold alloy in its foundry. Gold is combined with elements such as copper, silver, and platinum to form proprietary gold alloys such as Everose gold or with stainless steel to form Rolex Rolesor.

Platinum, an exclusive valued metal, which is more discreet than gold, is also used in many Rolex watches. Sometimes it is mixed with ruthenium or Oystersteel for enhanced robustness and radiance.

A proprietary luminous material called Chromalight is used to enhance legibility in low-light conditions, while Cerachrom is used to create extremely hard ceramic bezels. The versatility of Oystersteel, the elegance in platinum, and the opulence found in the gold alloys, drive the appeal of these precious timepieces and result in high prices.

3. Durability

According to Rolex, all its timepieces are built and designed to test their mettle further than anything they may ever endure. If you want the very best, you must be willing to pay for it.

A favorite quote frequently used by the brand is “tested to the extremes“. Rolex watches might be synonymous with luxury, but at the core, they are tool watches designed to withstand extreme temperatures, horrible impacts, collisions, extreme depths, magnetic fields, etc. 

The toughness, durability, and robustness of their watches meet and exceed the demands of professionals. We have already looked at some of the materials used in the construction of these time-telling machines and that is a key factor contributing to their durability. 

In addition to that, Rolex is famous for its quality control measures, so the superiority of each timepiece is the result of a strict methodology. The watches get tested at several points during development and production, and there are testimonials and real-life tests to back up their toughness, durability, and longevity. 

From Mercedes Gleitze swimming across the ice-cold waters of the English Channel in 1927 with a Rolex Oyster to Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay taking an Oyster Perpetual watch on their ascent to the top of Mount Everest, Rolex has outstanding testimonies to prove the durability of its timepieces.

4. Movements

The unsurpassable quality of Rolex movements is uncontested. With its focus on superlative quality, the Rolex movement is regarded as almost unparalleled in durability and precision. According to the COSC certification statistics, the luxury watch giant manufactures more chronometers than any mechanical movement manufacturer. 

The Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute is an organization that certifies the accuracy and precision of Swiss watches using several parameters. All Rolex movements are produced in-house and are accurate to −/+2 seconds a day. 

A unique feature of contemporary Rolex movements includes the Parachrom hairspring, which is over ten times more precise than a traditional hairspring when influenced by shocks, magnetic fields, and temperature variations.

Major components of a Rolex movement, like the balance wheel, pallet fork, escape wheel, etc are typically made of materials such as Glucydur. Glucydur is a highly elastic, hard, and non-magnetic alloy of beryllium, copper, and iron. It possesses excellent mechanical properties in addition to a low coefficient of thermal expansion.

Rolex also uses its Everose gold for the balance wheel in some of its movements to help prevent corrosion and render a unique rose color to it. Modern movements like the Caliber 3235 and the Caliber 3255 boast up to 14 patents for enhanced precision, reliability, and durability.

The combination of high-quality materials, rigorous testing processes, and quality control measures add to make the watch prices expensive.

5. Research & Development

Another reason why Rolex watches are so expensive is that mediocrity and commonplace can never be found at Rolex. Rolex has submitted more than 400 patents since its founding and is known to engage scientists in addition to certified watchmakers, mechanics, and engineers. The brand strives for extremely high-quality, accurate, and robust watches. 

To guarantee the superlative quality of Its watches, research and development activities that are crucial to the genesis of avant-garde timepieces are carried out consistently. Rolex’s headquarters in Geneva-Acacias has various professional labs and facilities where researchers and scientists work on new Rolex watches and manufacturing processes.

Rolex designs, assembles, and tests all its watches exclusively in Switzerland, thanks to over 9,000 employees at the brand’s four sites. Each of these profoundly knowledgeable staff plays a role in the different stages of tests and protocols to guarantee the reliability and robustness of its timepieces.

6. Assembly

All Rolex watches are developed and assembled in its world headquarters in Geneva. The movements are manufactured in Bienne, while the watch cases and bracelets are produced in Plan-les-Ouates. 

Other components like the dials, Cerachrom bezels, and Cerachrom bezel inserts in ceramic are crafted in Chêne-Bourg, where the brand’s gemmology and gem-setting expertise is located.

It is here that the final assembly of the watch components is made in two production units. Even though Rolex uses machines to assist in the assembly process, the majority of the work done is human-operated.

Everything from movements to bracelets is all hand-assembled and evaluated by skilled engineers with the utmost care to ensure exceptional quality.

The watches then go through a series of tests, after which the Superlative Chronometer certification, which attests unparalleled precision, power reserve, waterproofness, and self-winding, is awarded.

7. Low Supply

The limited supply of Rolex watches is a global phenomenon. Despite Rolex being among the highest producers of Swiss watches per year (Rolex produces about a million watches annually), demand has always outstripped supply.

The number of available watches from the brand is grossly insufficient to cope with the growing demand, making the timepieces from the luxury watch giant rare and expensive. Many models had already been increasingly scarce for years, and when COVID caused Rolex to halt production for some time, the situation was exacerbated.

The constrained supply of Rolex watches has also caused an explosion of prices on the secondary market, as purchasing a brand-new Rolex watch from ADs can take up to two years on a waiting list.

8. High Demand

There is an astronomically high demand for Rolex watches across the globe that even the production of one million new watches per year can’t meet. The demand is genuine and not due to mismanagement or customer manipulation by the brand.

The prestige, excellent quality, and elegant designs reinforce the dominance of Rolex watches, and when you add that to the shortage in circulation and high demand, a hike in price is bolstered. Apart from representing a statement of power, prestige, and opulence, Rolex watches hold the potential to be lucrative investments.

All these factors make Rolex the go-to brand for people who have ‘made it’ and want to purchase their first luxury watch. As a result of the global demand from enthusiasts, collectors, and investors, prices are affected significantly.

What’s The Most Expensive Rolex Watch?

The Ice Platinum Daytona ref. 126506-0001, one of the most sought-after timepieces in the world, is the most expensive Rolex watch. Crafted in platinum, this Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona showcases a mesmerizing ice-blue meteorite dial complemented by a chestnut brown Cerachrom bezel with an engraved tachymetric scale. 

The watch features chronograph counters, 18 ct gold applique hour markers, and luminous hands for enhanced legibility. The watch is powered by Rolex’s new caliber 4130, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement famous for its accuracy and ruggedness. 

The movement incorporates innovative technology, including a Parachrom hairspring and a Chronergy escapement, ensuring optimal performance and a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

The Ice Platinum Daytona holds a special place in the hearts of collectors due to its exclusivity. Rolex produces limited quantities of the Daytona collection, causing their value to skyrocket on the pre-owned market. 

With a retail price reaching as high as $75,000, this extraordinary timepiece reflects Rolex’s commitment to precision, luxury, and undeniable allure. The combination of platinum, diamonds, and the unique ice-blue meteorite dial adds to its desirability and contributes to its high price tag.

While the Ice Platinum Daytona is among the most expensive Rolex watches, it is worth mentioning the record-breaking sale of Paul Newman’s Daytona. In 2017, Paul Newman’s personal Rolex Daytona reference 6239 was auctioned by Phillips and set a new record for the most expensive Rolex ever sold. 

The watch fetched a staggering $17.8 million, making it a symbol of both horological significance and historical value. This specific Daytona gained fame as the “Paul Newman Daytona” due to the actor’s association with the watch and his passion for motorsports.

The astronomical price achieved by Paul Newman’s Daytona demonstrates the collector’s market’s fascination with rare and historically significant timepieces. The watch’s provenance, unique dial configuration, and association with a prominent figure in popular culture all contributed to its extraordinary value.

What’s The Cheapest Rolex Watch?

The Oyster Perpetual serves as the entry-level collection in Rolex’s current catalog and is known for its accessibility in terms of price compared to other Rolex models. 

While Rolex is often associated with luxury and high-end timepieces, the Oyster Perpetual allows individuals to own a Rolex watch at a relatively more affordable price. Available in various sizes, the Oyster Perpetual watches showcase dials in subtle or vibrant colors, ensuring a contemporary and versatile look. 

With a price range starting from $6,400, the Oyster Perpetual offers the timeless Rolex design and quality at a more accessible price point. In addition to the Oyster Perpetual, it’s worth noting that older Rolex watches can also be more affordable options for those seeking a Rolex timepiece. 

The pre-owned market offers a range of vintage and discontinued Rolex models that may be obtainable at lower prices compared to their newer counterparts. The availability of affordable older Rolex watches is influenced by various factors, such as the specific model, condition, age, and rarity. 

Vintage Rolex watches, particularly those from the mid-20th century, can be appealing to collectors and enthusiasts. These watches may possess unique design elements, historical significance, and a charm that sets them apart from contemporary models.

It’s important to note that even though these older Rolex watches might be more accessible in terms of price, they still exhibit the brand’s renowned craftsmanship and durability. Rolex’s commitment to precision and reliability transcends time, making vintage models a viable option for those interested in owning a Rolex watch without breaking the bank.

Are Rolex Watches a Good Investment?

There’s not been a time in the past 100 years when Rolex watches weren’t in demand. As the supply and demand gap widens for the most popular luxury watch brand in the world, prices keep soaring uncontrollably, making them a viable asset.

Increased scarcity results in greater exclusivity, and the brand has officially stated that current production cannot meet the prevailing demand in an exhaustive way without a reduction in the quality of Its watches. This means Rolex does not plan to increase its production capacity anytime soon, so we can be sure the supply shortage will keep growing. 

Studies from a global consulting firm (Boston Consulting Group) reveal that between August 2018 to January 2023, the secondhand market for timepieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet rose at an annual rate of 20% despite COVID-19. At the same time, the US S&P 500 (Standard and Poor’s 500) stock index rose by only 8%. 

S&P 500 is a stock market index that tracks the 500 leading publicly traded companies in the U.S. With pre-owned sales of Rolex watches accounting for almost one-third of the overall $75 billion luxury watch market, people are beginning to consider buying a Rolex as a better investment than stock, and the statistics reveal this truth very clearly.

Many investors have also seen the possibility of diversifying their traditional assets (stocks, bonds, and currencies) by purchasing luxury watches because of their strong price performance in the market. Rolex watches have proven to be a sound investment for collectors and investors, appreciating significantly in value over time. Average buyers of Rolex watches regard their purchase as a stable investment because it is a reputable brand with a consumer base of high-net-worth individuals.

Rolex watches have also demonstrated resilience to economic downturns and market fluctuations. During times of financial uncertainty, luxury goods like Rolex watches tend to hold their value or even appreciate, making them a stable investment option.

Again certain Rolex models carry historical significance or have been associated with iconic individuals, events, or achievements. These watches become coveted collector’s items, commanding higher prices due to their historical context and storytelling potential.

The meticulous attention to detail and use of high-quality materials ensure that Rolex timepieces age gracefully and retain their value over time. These materials not only contribute to the watches’ durability but also add intrinsic value, enhancing their investment potential.

However, it’s essential to note that not all Rolex watches will appreciate at the same rate. Factors such as model, rarity, condition, and historical significance play a significant role in determining a watch’s investment potential. It’s advisable to consult with experts, research market trends, and consider long-term investment strategies before making a purchase solely for investment purposes.

Highly coveted models like the Rolex Daytona, the Submariner, and the GMT-Master II fetch up to 200% of firsthand market prices on the secondhand market. For instance, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, which has an MSRP of $15,000 for stainless steel models, can be seen on the gray market for $25,550 to $55,500, well above their official list prices. 

Rare vintage editions also enjoy excellent value increases, attracting collectors and investors to the profitability of the Daytona.

Conclusion

Rolex continues to be at the pinnacle of the watchmaking industry, an exemplar of exceptional craftsmanship and a true icon of timekeeping excellence. Owning a Rolex watch is more than just possessing a timekeeping device; it’s a statement of refined taste, a connection to history and tradition, and an investment in a piece of enduring luxury. 

It might be expensive, but it has been reported to outperform gold, real estate, and stocks over the past decade. That said, if you have the money for it, don’t hesitate to purchase a Rolex watch, as you’re not likely to lose. Check out our collection of pre-owned Rolex watches here and place your order immediately!

James Cameron Rolex watches

Oscar-winning film director James Cameron is famous for directing some of the highest-grossing movies of all time, including “Avatar” and “Titanic.” In addition to filmmaking, he has an ardent affection for deep-sea exploration, which reflects in his willingness to take on audacious underwater challenges. 

His daring spirit is what makes him the perfect Rolex ambassador, but before becoming a Rolex ambassador, the explorer and environmental advocate had already been sporting a Submariner. 

As a passionate young scuba diver, he always wanted the perfect timepiece for his diving adventures. His first Rolex Submariner was acquired in 1986 and has been his steady companion for over 30 years now.

And so it happened that in 2014, Rolex paid tribute to Hollywood director James Cameron by doing something very extraordinary; launching a model in his name. The Sea-Dweller Deepsea James Cameron Edition was a special honor well deserved, so let’s find out all about James Cameron Rolex watches in this article.

About the James Cameron Rolex

Rolex is a luxury watch giant with a reputation for never bending the rule for anyone. However, all that changed in 2014 when a tribute was paid to Canadian film director James Cameron with the introduction of the Rolex DeepSea D-Blue.

It all started in 2012 when James Cameron decided to embark on a daredevil solo dive by descending to the deepest part of the Mariana Trench, breaking the 52-year-old record of Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh in 1960. 

During the expedition, he was accompanied by the Rolex Deep Sea Special on the submersible “Deepsea Challenge,” and he reached a depth of 10,898 meters, a solo dive unprecedented in its depth. Rolex introduced the 50mm Rolex Deepsea Challenge to commemorate this feat. 

The watch has achieved an impressive 12,000 meters water resistance threshold. It is designed to withstand the extreme pressures of the sea depth. The original prototype attached outside the diving vessel had its COSC-certified Caliber 3135 untouched even at a jaw-dropping 11,000-meter descent.

The expedition’s success led to the release of the Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea “D-Blue,” also called the “James Cameron” edition. The first reference of the Deepsea 116660 D-Blue, was released in 2014, while the updated Deepsea 126660 D-Blue released in 2018 comes with an improved caliber and a 72-hour power reserve.

Both references offer exceptional readability with their Chromalight luminescent indices and a downward-pointing triangle at the zero markers. Having water resistance up to 3,900 meters, both references are designed with helium valves for pressure balance, an adjustable Oyster bracelet for comfortable wear over diving suits, and a robust casing.

The James Cameron Rolex is undoubtedly a testament to resilience, exploration, and an adventurous spirit. 

James Cameron Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller Ref.136660-0003

James Cameron Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller Ref.136660-0003

Considered the perfect tribute to an extraordinary feat, the James Cameron Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller ref. 136660-0003 symbolizes Rolex’s commitment to innovation and technical excellence. Let’s take a closer look at a timepiece that goes beyond the limits of horological prowess.

The Case

The case of this horological marvel is a sturdy 44mm Oystersteel. Oystersteel is a stainless alloy made for Rolex since 1985 from high-performance steel of grade 904L and is known to preserve its brilliance and beauty after polishing in all circumstances. 

The overall finish is very qualitative and gives you the feeling that you have on your wrist a timepiece waiting to dive. It is sharp, precise, flawless, and just what you’ll expect from Rolex. Oystersteel is known to exude rugged elegance and will also thrive in the harshest possible conditions.

Its screw-down crown, protected by lateral guards, is equipped with the Triplock triple waterproofness system, which guarantees a watertight seal keeping the watch accurate at depths up to 12,800 feet. The height of the case is around 12.5mm, and the case back, made from titanium, adds a touch of lightweight strength to this deep-sea companion. 

The unidirectional rotatable bezel, graced with a scratch-resistant Cerachrom insert in ceramic is generously coated with platinum numerals and graduations. It’s not just a practical tool; it’s a work of art. Topping it off is the 5.5mm-thick domed sapphire crystal, fearlessly fending off scratches and granting crystal-clear visibility.

The Dial

The sunray brushed dial of Ref.136660-0003 retains the same layout found in the Submariner collection. It is a perfect harmony of style and functionality with a two-color gradient, transitioning from brilliant blue to bottomless black. It pays homage to Cameron’s journey to the depths of the Mariana Trench. 

Its Chromalight display can illuminate the darkest depths with a vibrant blue luminescence that lasts longer than traditional lume. The hour markers are a classic combination of dots, rectangles, and a triangle at 12 o’clock, and the handset retains the same design. 

The Rolex coronet logo and brand name are located at 12 o’clock, while at 6 o’clock, you’ll find the neon green “Deepsea” text on the watch, representing the diving vessel’s color. You’ll also see the text “Sea-Dweller” and the classic literature following Deepsea while a date window sits at 3 o’clock. Overall the dial is ultra-legible and displays a remarkable execution of all the elements, a feat that has long demonstrated its effectiveness.

Bracelet

The James Cameron Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller Ref.136660-0003 is worn on a Rolex Oyster bracelet. The robust bracelet is simply a testament to Rolex’s commitment to durability and comfort. It is a 3-link construction made of Oystersteel, the brand’s proprietary 904L steel, which ensures a sturdy connection and breathability. 

It features a finish that is in line with the case; polished sides with complete brushing on its flat surfaces. The Oysterlock clasp prevents any accidental openings, while the brand’s Glidelock extension system allows the length of the bracelet to be adjusted without having to remove the watch from the wrist. 

With its tool-free fine adjustment capabilities, you can effortlessly tailor the bracelet’s fit, accommodating the size of your wrist or even letting it comfortably coexist with a diving suit. 

Movement

The Deepsea Sea-Dweller Ref.136660-0003 is powered by the Rolex caliber 3235. This automatic movement improves on its predecessor, the caliber 3135, with more robust, accurate, and reliable features.

First launched at Baselworld 2015 inside the 39mm Pearlmaster, this movement is an embodiment of horological mastery and comes with a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day. The paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers ensure the movement’s resilience against magnetic fields and unexpected knocks, respectively. 

The new Chronergy escapement which consists of a pallet fork, and an escape wheel helps in boosting the power reserve to 70 hours (from 48 hours). With 31 jewels meticulously placed within the movement, the Deepsea Sea-Dweller 136660-0003 is a testament to Rolex’s commitment to precision and craftsmanship. 

What If You Want to Go Deeper?

On March 26, 2012, James Cameron piloted a 7.3-meter deep-diving submersible known as the Deepsea Challenger (DCV 1) to the bottom of the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean. The Deepsea Challenger was manufactured in Sydney, Australia, by Acheron Project Pty Ltd in partnership with the National Geographic Society and with support from Rolex.

Before the exploration, Cameron attempted to take the submersible to the ocean floor several times. The exploration had been aborted twice, with Cameron submerged below the water surface due to unexpected challenges.

His childhood dream was fulfilled on March 26th when he successfully piloted the Deepsea Challenger nearly 11 kilometers (36,000 ft) deep to the bottom of the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean. This record-breaking solo dive to Earth’s lowest point took two hours and 36 minutes of descent from the surface and was the fourth-ever dive to the Challenger Deep.

Throughout the expedition, the Rolex Deepsea Challenge dive watch kept time perfectly for nearly seven hours as James Cameron spent significant time exploring the bottom. The Rolex Deepsea honors this historical dive with a two-color gradient dial watch, reflecting the brilliant blue ocean surface to the bottomless black and celebrating an icon’s journey to the deepest place on earth.

What Watch Does James Cameron Actually Wear?

Filmmaker James Cameron wears the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 16610. As a Rolex ambassador, it comes as no surprise that he is often seen wearing various Rolex watches. However, the Sub 16610 has been his faithful companion for decades.

After the success of his 1986 film “Aliens,” the filmmaker rewarded himself with a Rolex Submariner 16610. It’s weird, but James Cameron has been faithful to this watch for 37 years.

While there is no doubt of his allegiance to Rolex, it’s not hard to see that Submariner 16610 holds a special spot in James Cameron’s heart. 

Not only does he wear the watch on several film sets and prominent events like the Oscars, but he’s also worn it on a whopping 33 dives to the Titanic wreck. The Rolex Submariner is a reflection of his aspirations from childhood. 

Cameron idolizes the Submariner as the ultimate diving watch, even from his early days as a diver. He said the watch symbolized commitment and expertise and played a vital role in his underwater adventures from the Titanic to the Mariana Trench.

Despite having a collection of some of the best luxury watch brands. Cameron’s loyalty to his Submariner is second to none. Cameron said the Submariner had given him lots of access because he could connect with a community of like-minded individuals who share common aspirations of the Ocean, which is just inspiring!

Conclusion

The “James Cameron Rolex” is undoubtedly known and respected in horological circles. It is regarded as a testament to Cameron’s daring spirit of exploration and is recognized as the first watch commemorating an individual’s personality. Its blend of ruggedness and sophistication will go down in history as a statement piece that will inspire thousands to consistently push boundaries and explore unknown heights.

orient vs seiko watches

Welcome to another knock-down, drag-out battle here on Exquisite Timepieces. Today, we pit two strong value-based Japanese brands against each other.

If you’re looking for a great timepiece that mashes up ruggedness and durability at an accessible price point, your best offers will be from Seiko and Orient. Together with Citizen, Seiko, and Orient make up the three top Asian watch brands and are known all over the globe.

Apart from offering the best entry-level choices on the market, they are both respected for providing exquisitely styled watches that are precise, accurate, and reliable.

Will the maker of exceptional value-for-money watches (Orient) be able to beat the reigning Japanese champion (Seiko)? Let’s find out!

About Orient Watches

Orient is a Japanese watch manufacturer with roots stretching back to 1901. 1901 was the year Shogoro Yoshida started ‘Yoshida Watch Shop’ in Ueno, Taito, Tokyo, Japan. The young merchant began by selling imported watches, and by 1912, the business had expanded to a point where Yoshida began producing gold wristwatch cases. 

Fast forward to 1920, and Yoshida moved on to producing table clocks and gauges. By 1934, the company, now “Toyo Tokei Manufacturing”, began manufacturing wristwatches. The business expanded, and in 1936, there was a need to move to a larger base which led to the building of the Hino factory in Hino, Tokyo, Japan.

The young brand continued production in this location successfully until 1949, when it shut down due to the economic meltdown following World War II. Hope came alive once more, and Toyo Tokei Manufacturing was brought back to life in 1950 under the name Tama Keiki Company. The name was changed to Orient Watch Company Limited a year later, and the first Orient Star went on sale immediately.

The watch quickly gained popularity among top luxury watches, giving Orient Watch Company Limited an expanded reach and visibility. Other important watches released during this era include the “Fineness”, the world’s thinnest automatic timepiece that featured a day and date calendar function in 1967, the “Dynamic” in 1956, and the “Grand Prix 100” in 1964. 

The company survived the quartz crisis in the 1970s, and about three decades later, the Orient Technical Center (OTC) was founded to assemble high-end watches in Ugo, Ogachi, Akita, Japan.

The proud Japanese craftsmanship of exquisite watchmaking continued, and Orient Watch Company eventually became a functional subsidiary of the Seiko-Epson Corporation in 2017.

About Seiko Watches

Seiko’s story begins in 1881 with a 21-year-old entrepreneur, Kintarō Hattori, opening a watch and jewelry shop. The store, which he called “K. Hattori”, was located in Ginza, Tokyo. He also began to sell and repair watches and clocks, a skill he learned from working as a clockmaker apprentice when he was 13 years old. 

His business grew very quickly, and just four years after its establishment, he began importing exclusive timepieces and machinery for wholesalers who needed these items from foreign trading companies. His close partnership with various international trading firms gave him access to Western (imported) timepieces and machinery that were not available elsewhere then.

Due to the rarity of the imported timepieces and machinery, his business grew exponentially, so that in 1892, eleven years after he founded “K. Hattori”, the ‘Seikosha’ factory was established.

It was in Seikosha, which roughly means “Exquisite House” in Japanese, that Kintaro Hattori began the production of his first clocks. 

By 1895, the young brand launched its first in-house pocket watch, “The Timekeeper”, and all through the 1890s, the success of Seikosha’s watch business heightened. The production of the Timekeeper was a vital step and laid the foundation for Japan’s first-ever wristwatch, without which the future of Seiko would have been very different.

Kintarō Hattori, who had resolved to always be ‘one step ahead’, embarked on the difficult task of producing Japan’s first-ever wristwatch, and he succeeded. By 1913, the first Japanese-made wristwatch, ‘the Laurel’, hit the market, and even though at that time only about 30 watches could be made in a day, Kintaro had established a lead on the rest.

In 1924, one year after the Great Kanto earthquake, the company created the first Seiko-branded wristwatch. It was in the same year that Seikosha changed its trademark to “Seiko”; by 1929, Japan’s National Railway adopted its pocket watch as the official “Railway Watch”.

Successful production, and in 1956, Seiko released “The Automatic”, which was Japan’s first automatic wristwatch. Quartz technology was developed during the early 1960s so that by 1964, Seiko was equipped with 1,278 timing devices as it served as the Official Timer of the 18th Olympiad in Tokyo.

The world’s first commercial quartz wristwatch, “the Astron”, went on sale in 1969, positioning Seiko as one of the top leaders in the Horological world. Many other firsts followed, such as the first digital watch with a stopwatch function and the first diver’s timepiece with a titanium case, amongst others.

Today, Seiko is recognized as Japan’s most iconic watch brand that has earned the love and respect of enthusiasts and casual wearers all over the world.

Orient vs Seiko Watches: The Battle of Two Iconic Japanese Watch Brands

One thing Orient and Seiko have in common is their capacity to produce reliable timepieces at affordable prices. Their impressive range as watchmakers have made them a beloved favorite of watch wearers all over the world. For a giant watchmaker with over 100 years of exquisite craftsmanship, Seiko still isn’t ashamed to produce in the budget realm. 

Meanwhile, Orient has long occupied the spotlight for offering some of the best affordable mechanical watches, rivaling Seiko. It’s not often these well-respected Japanese watchmakers get put head to head, but they both offer fantastic, entry-level timepieces for anyone and everyone. 

If you’re searching for excellent watches labeled as quality, precise, accurate, and reliable for under $500, few are better choices than those offered by Seiko or Orient. That said, let’s move on to compare both brands. 

Brand Recognition

Brand recognition is the extent to which users of a commodity can correctly identify the characteristics of the product or service offered by the producers by just viewing the product or service’s logo. In short, it means how “aware” individuals are that your brand exists.

Although Seiko and Orient are similar in terms of their offerings and attract just about the same target audience, their identities are not, and this is one of the areas where they differ largely. 

Let’s start with Seiko. In September 2015, Seiko was recognized as ‘Brand of the Year’ at the World Branding Forum at Kensington Palace in London. The 2015-2016 award was given to the watchmaking legend in the watches category. This is something huge because the judging system was unique.

A total of 2,600 brands from 35 countries were nominated, and the winner was selected using a three-part process. The measures involved brand valuation by the World Branding Forum (a global organization dedicated to advancing standards in the branding industry), a consumer research project, and an online vote by the public. 

Seiko was selected alongside prestigious brands like Apple, Louis Vuitton, Mercedes Benz, and Google for having built a good reputation and trust amongst enthusiasts across the globe. 

This is not exactly the case for Orient. Even though the brand is widely known for being among the most affordable watch producers with a wide variety of offerings, Seiko stays on top when it comes to brand recognition.

Orient watches are well-known and highly sought-after in many Asian countries but not across the globe like Seiko.

Model Variety

Both Seiko and Orient are among some of the most versatile watch brands in the world. When it comes to model variety, expect to find a large number of elegant watches distributed into various collections based on functionality, focus, or theme. 

For Seiko, there are about seven iconic models that comprise high-quality watches, which all emphasize legibility and a well-balanced design. 

The first most popular model is Seiko Prospex. Seiko Prospex is a remarkable collection of durable watches for sports lovers and adventure seekers under the sea, on land, or in the sky. It consists of multiple sub-collections for a variety of uses, including dive watches that feature outstanding water resistance ratings of 1000 meters.

Next is Seiko Presage. Seiko Presage is a retro-inspired dress watch collection that represents the pure aesthetic virtue of Japanese culture and blends a good dose of vintage personality with it. 

The third model from the Japanese giant watchmaker is the famous Seiko Astron. This collection features versatile and stylish watches that are eco-friendly with solar-powered functionality.

Up next is King Seiko. King Seiko is the brand’s high-end watch lineup that blends exquisite elegance with Seiko’s usual well-attested commitment to quality and reliability. 

Seiko 5 Sports follows, and here you will find rugged and everyday tool watches that are highly affordable yet offer the highest quality of materials and style. The watches are athletic, built to last in extreme environments, and packed with cutting-edge technology, making them extremely popular.

Orient is best known for models that can be broadly categorized into tool watches and dress watches. This means that the brand focuses more on professional timepieces and also produces elegant watches for those who love to dress up. 

Like Seiko, Orient’s catalog is massive, with profound diversity. Watches from the brand occupy almost every price point. The Orient Mako collection is the most popular and consists of sports/dive watches. 

The Orient Star houses impressive complications and is also where you’ll find dress watches that beautifully combine Japanese craftsmanship and elegance. 

The Bambino line has affordable dress watches, while the Defender collection has rugged field watches. Suffice it to say that just like Seiko, there is an Orient for everyone, so both brands have extensive catalogs. 

However, Seiko is more innovative and customer-focused, so again, we see Seiko beating Orient in this category with a wide array of enchanting watches. Despite the diversity of the timepieces, however, there are foundational qualities that tie all of the watches together. 

Build Quality & Durability

Both Seiko and Orient have a reputation for offering high-quality, stylish, and reliable timepieces. When it comes to materials, both brands use a variety of elements to make their watches. You may not find gold, diamonds, and other precious stones in Seiko or Orient watches often, but you won’t be disappointed in what you see.

Seiko uses precious metals such as palladium, platinum, ruthenium, titanium, yellow gold, white gold, and gold fillings for its high-end watches. Many of the standard watches from the brand use regular metals like stainless steel, aluminum, and chromium, depending on the model. 

Alloys such as bronze are also often used for dive watches, and PVD coating is often applied to selected timepieces for color maintenance. Non-metals like ceramics, plastics, and rubber can also be found in a large number of its offerings. 

Orient watches are also designed to last a lifetime, and the quality can be seen in the materials used by the brand. 

Depending on the model, Orient watches are made of durable materials like silicon, which is solid but lightweight and non-magnetic, polyurethane, stainless steel, gold, bronze, aluminum, leather, rubber, and ceramic.

Both brands also use different types of crystal glass in their watches to protect the dial from damage. Seiko’s Hardlex crystal can be found in many entry-level timepieces, while sapphire glass is used for higher-priced watches. Orient uses mineral glass for some of its lower-end timepieces and sapphire crystal for mid to high-end watches.

Overall, both brands use the best materials for each price range which offers quality and precision. 

Various levels of water resistance are provided by Seiko and Orient for their watches. The basic water resistance rating for dive watches from both Seiko and Orient is around 200 meters, while the dress watches are splashproof. 

It’s not uncommon to find watches with up to 1,000 meters of water resistance, however. Examples are the rare Orient King Diver with 1,000 meters of water resistance and the Gradient Blue “Tuna” from Seiko, also with a water-resistant rating of 1000 meters.

Movements

When it comes to movements, both watches have built a reputation for accurate calibers, but Seiko, as usual, is a step ahead. Seiko watches are known to use three different kinds of movements, namely:

Quartz movements:

Seiko is recognized as the pioneer of quartz watches, and over the years, the brand has worked to improve the efficiency and quality of all its quartz watches. 

Seiko’s quartz watches are reported to have an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year to show how much the brand has focused on superior quality. Quartz watches are battery-powered and utilize electronic oscillators through a small quartz crystal that vibrates at a particular frequency and powers the watch. They require minimal servicing than their mechanical counterparts.

Spring Drive movements:

Spring Drive movement is a unique watch movement produced by Epson in Shiojiri. It works by combining the high rotational force of a mechanical watch with the advanced precision integrated circuit (IC) control system of an electronic watch.

It is of higher quality than some mechanical watches because it offers a power reserve of 72 hours in opposition to the standard 40-hour power reserve. Spring drive movements can be wound manually or automatically.

Kinetic movements:

Seiko kinetic movements utilize a small mechanism on the back of the caliber that converts the energy from the spinning of the wearer’s wrist into electrical energy, which is stored in a rechargeable battery. It is one of the more eco-friendly movements from the brand and includes calibers 5D44 and 9T82.

Mechanical and automatic movements:

Seiko’s mechanical movements utilize energy powered by gears and springs that are wound periodically. Automatic movements, on the other hand, use a self-winding mechanism. This means it operates as a result of the energy from the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. 

Unlike mechanical watches, you won’t need to manually wind an automatic watch. Examples of automatic movements can be found in the 4R family, such as Caliber 4R15, 4R16, etc.

Orient, on the other hand, has earned the respect of many aficionados and collectors globally because it designs and makes all its movements in-house.

Not only has the Japanese watch brand been making its movements, but Orient has also been upgrading them with avant-garde technicalities as the years run by.

Worth noting is the caliber 46 series. This series of movements happen to be one of the most popular in-house movements found in many entry-level timepieces. However, as expected, Orient has improved this movement, replacing it with the F6 series, which guarantees an average accuracy of  -15/+25 seconds per day. 

Many of Orient’s watches, including popular models like the Mako II and Ray I, feature the caliber F6. The movement has a power reserve of 40 hours with hacking and hand winding,

Price & Availability

The prices of Seiko and Orient watches vary widely. The average price of a Seiko begins from as cheap as $100 but moves on to as high as $10,000 and beyond. Orient has also built a reputation for producing high-quality watches at very affordable prices. 

Even with its in-house movements, a Ray II diving watch or a dress watch from the Bambino collection can be purchased for more than $250. The Mako ll costs more than these and is priced at around $350. 

Other affordable offerings are the quartz-powered chronograph, with prices starting at around $170. The Orient Star collection, however, commands higher prices that begin from $500 to over $2,000 for intricately skeletonized models.

Both Orient and Seiko watches are readily available and can be obtained from their authorized dealers across the globe or on the second-hand market.

Resale Value

Resale value is the monetary worth that an item holds over the course of its life, more like the price which can be realized from it when sold in the future.

When it comes to resale value, both brands do not increase in value. Once you leave the store with a new piece, you can be sure that its value has gone down by at least 40%. 

However, there are exceptions, as a few anniversary and milestone watches from Seiko are known to hold and/or increase in value over time. Also, if you are lucky enough to own a limited edition from Seiko, you should know that what you have is virtually guaranteed to hold its value.

Generally, if you are searching for a timepiece to resell in the future to earn an extra grand, Orient and Seiko are not the brands to look for. But, as I said, if the watches are from a limited edition or belonged to a widely loved and adored series that was discontinued, then expect the prices to appreciate by over 20%.

Orient vs Seiko Watches: Top Models Comparison

Both Orient and Seiko offer outstanding timepieces with distinct advantages. The top models we will compare are similar, and all demonstrate exquisite craftsmanship with superlative aesthetic sensibility. 

Seiko has a passion for pushing boundaries and is the originator of Japan’s horology culture. Orient, on the other hand, is respected for its low-cost in-house mechanical watches that display high-end inventions. Can Orient’s best timepieces stand up to Seiko’s mastery of the watchmaking industry?

Let’s find out!

Orient Kamasu vs Seiko Turtle

If there was any entry-level watch apart from the discontinued Seiko SKX that shook the watch community by storm, the Orient Kamasu is the one. Easily dubbed the value king of rugged timepieces, the Kamasu is one of the most impressive offerings from the Orient. 

The watch is packed with impressive features that are hard to get at its price range of around $200 to $300. Some of these remarkable specifications are the water resistance rating of 200 meters, an in-house movement with hacking and hand winding, and a sapphire crystal. 

The watch is adored for its incredible value considering the great build quality that punches way above its price point. It is also quite visually distinct, with vibrant sunburst dials presented in various colors that evoke nostalgic feelings that the SKX once did. 

The Kamasu comes in a 41.5mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish on the top and polished surfaces on the sides. The versatile diameter makes it wear very comfortably on various wrists, while the fitting height of 13 mm gives it the heft a dive watch should come with. 

It features a unidirectional bezel with an aluminum insert and smooth 120-click bezel action, which makes it quite easy to rotate. A flat sapphire crystal (yes, sapphire crystal!) protects the dial of the Kamasu, and this is a feature you won’t find on Seiko watches in the same price range.

The killer dials all come with a very pleasant handset and applied indices that appear to be floating above the dial. The watch is powered by the Caliber F6922, an in-house hacking and hand-winding movement with approximately 40 hours of power reserve.

The Seiko Turtle, on the other hand, first appeared in Japan under the name 6306 in 1976. It was nicknamed “Turtle” by the Seiko fanbase because the case of the 6306 has a sort of “cushion-shaped” oval case. 

The watch came and faded into oblivion like the SKX until 2016, when the cushion-shaped Turtle resurfaced in the Prospex collection as the SRP series.

The watch features an upgraded automatic movement, a crown located at 4 o’clock, and an increased water resistance rating from 150 to 200 meters.

The diameter of the stainless steel case is comparatively large at 44.3mm with several 45-mm variants known as King Turtle. However, the soft curves and relatively short lug-to-lug distance make the watch wear quite comfortably. 

There are a couple of dial options available to suit different tastes and gorgeous bezel colors like black, dark blue, blue and orange, and blue and red in circulation.

Seiko Turtle watches are powered by Seiko’s automatic 4R36, but there is a special edition, the 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation limited edition Ref. SLA033, which is powered by Seiko’s caliber 8L35. 

Other special editions like the Blue Lagoon, launched in 2017, the Orange Turtle Diver Nemo, released in 2018, and 2020’s Save the Ocean model exist to cater to the needs of collectors.

All Seiko Turtle versions have a water resistance rating of 200 meters, and depending on the reference, you can acquire them with rubber straps or a stainless steel bracelet with Seiko’s Diver Extender function.

Comparing these two high-quality watches is similar to comparing the two brands all over again. Both are great watches with similar features. The Caliber 4R36 and F6922 provide approximately 40 hours of power reserve each, and the two are robust dive watches with 200 meters of water resistance. 

What gives the Kamasu an edge over the Turtle model is the use of sapphire crystal and the fact that it is slightly cheaper than the Turtle.

If you want a robust dive watch that can survive serious adventures with dashing aesthetics, the Orient Kamasu is your best choice. Go for the Seiko Turtle if you want a popular and practical timepiece that can stand up to the challenges and stressors of everyday life. 

Orient KamasuSeiko Turtle
Case Size41.5 mm44.3 mm
Materials316L stainless steel316L stainless steel
Water Resistance200 m (20 bar, 656 ft)200 m (20 bar, 656 ft)
Movement  Caliber F6922 (40 hours of   power reserve)Caliber 4R36  (40 hours of   power reserve)
StrapSteel braceletStainless steel bracelets with practical extender function/ Rubber strap
Additional FeaturesSapphire crystalLimited Editions, Excellent lume
MSRP$200$350 

Orient Bambino vs Seiko Presage Cocktail Time

The Bambino collection has been the flagship model of Orient for years. It features some of the most refined timepieces produced by the brand. 

It also mainly contains classic watches with excellent designs reflecting Japanese craftsmanship. As one of the best-selling collections, the Bambino features well-made retro dress watches with numerous design options for men and women.

The enthralling timepieces come in various sizes ranging from 40.5mm for men’s models to 36.4mm for women’s wristwatches.

The watch case is made from 316L stainless steel and comes in a smooth round form with a thin sloping bezel. A steeply domed mineral crystal is used to protect the dial. 

The height of the watch is around 11mm to 12.5mm for newer models and is perfectly structured to appear visually thinner than the dimensions suggest. A wide variety of dial options are available and range from Bauhaus-style to skeletonized dials. 

There are also some classical models with clean and balanced Roman numerals and a railroad minute track on the periphery. All the dials are legible, but not all feature luminescent material for low-light legibility; however, quality construction, balanced layout, and beautiful sunburst dials are just some of the few elements that unite them. 

Each model also features a modestly sized date display with chamfered edges at 3 o’clock. The depth rating of these timepieces is only about 30 meters, so they are just splashproof and should not be used for swimming.

The Bambino boasts a solid in-house movement, the automatic caliber F6724. Older models used the 48743, but it was upgraded and now features a stop-seconds mechanism and a manual winding option.

Meanwhile, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series is a collection that takes style to a whole new level. The very first timepiece from the line debuted in 2010 as a limited edition and was only available in Japan. Nevertheless, the Cocktail Time was silently reintroduced in the Presage line in 2016 and was made available globally.

The name of the watch is taken from a bar in Tokyo owned by Shinobu Ishigaki, and his outstanding methods and flavors served as inspiration for the watch designs. Timepieces in the Cocktail Time series feature stainless steel cases that measure a fitting 40.5mm in diameter with a variety of sunburst dials that gives off a distinct sparkling effect. 

Enchanting (and tasteful) dial varieties like ice blue, champagne, and chocolate brown add to the diversity of the line. Narrow tapered hour markers adorn the face of all the Cocktail Time dials evoking the stem of a cocktail glass. The watches are powered by movements from the caliber 4R family found in many entry-level dress and dive watches from Seiko. 

Again it is hard to pick a clear winner between the Bambino and Presage Cocktail Time as both models feature classic dress watches with in-house calibers and refined designs. However, the Bambino is ahead in terms of offering excellent value for money as a new piece can be gotten for around $170 to $200, while prices for the Cocktail Time start around $550. 

Special attention has been given to designing the dials of the Cocktail Time, leading to a superlative aesthetical allure compared to the Bambino. But the latter has countless interesting varieties and configurations to choose from. Both models are great for those looking to own an impressive dress watch to rock for a formal meeting or casual gathering.

Orient BambinoSeiko Presage Cocktail Time
Case Size40.5mm40.5mm
Materials316L stainless steel316L stainless steel
Water ResistanceSplashproof (30 meters)50 Meters
MovementCalibre F6724Calibre 4R57
StrapLeather StrapLeather (calfskin)
Additional FeaturesMultiple versions & modelsSee-through case back, Some of the best dial finishing for the price
MSRP$170 to $200 $550 to $900

Orient Defender II vs Seiko 5 Field Sports Style

The Defender II is the second generation of the Defender model from Orient. As the name implies, the watch is an authentic field watch rugged enough to withstand adverse conditions and versatile enough for the no-frills outdoor lifestyle. 

The Defender model, like many other field watches, draws its inspiration from vintage military timepieces and is rendered in a relatively simple design with a genuine military air. The focus is all on functionality and improved legibility, and the dial is specially constructed to allow the wearer to read the time in one glance long after the sun sets over the mountains. 

It is tough, durable, and well-made yet affordable and thus offers exceptional value for money.

The watches are presented in stainless steel with PVD treatment in some cases. The measurement of the case is about 42mm, with a lug-to-lug of 49.5mm and a thickness of approximately 12mm. 

Each one is completely satin-brushed to achieve a tool-like appearance and has a relatively large crown at 3 o’clock without crown guards. This makes it easy to grip and operate with gloves on. 

The watches are all water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and use mineral crystals to protect the dial. Though it’s not ideal for diving, it can comfortably handle swimming and splashes.

Only a few dial options are available, and all of them focus strongly on legibility. The perimeter of the dials features a sloped chapter ring on which the 60-minute markers are printed, giving the watch depth and character. 

Right where the chapter ring ends, the second markers are printed. The dial features applied hour markers which have a rectangular shape. The hour markers and handset are large and heavily lumed, and a neat date window sits at the 3 o’clock position. 

The Defender ll is powered by the automatic in-house Orient caliber F6B22 which provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The Seiko 5 is a well-known collection built on five established standards. The brand states on its website that the five core elements include water resistance, automatic winding, durable construction, screw-down crown, and day-date function.

The Sports Style model is a sub-series that is home to incredible sports watches with automatic in-house movements. Apart from having very accessible price points, the timepieces are built to be rugged and reliable. Like the Defender II, the utilitarian design approach and versatility of the Style model make it suitable for just about any occasion. 

The dial design is customary for a tool watch; extremely legible with large hour markers and a handset generously applied with Seiko’s LumiBrite. Like other models, different dial colors and straps are available, and the timepieces here are further segmented into field and pilot’s watches. 

The case diameter starts from 39mm (for example, the Ref. SRPG27K1) to 42.5mm (e.g. the SRPD59). Similar to the Orient Defender II, the Seiko 5 Field Sports Style is fitted with a low maintenance movement; the 4R36 with a daily accuracy between +45 and -35 seconds. 

It is also water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and features a mineral crystal like the Defender II, so there’s no difference apart from the fact that the Seiko 5 Field Sports Style is more recognized and popular. At the same time, the Defender II offers a greater value for money. Both watches are ideal for serious adventurers searching for a rugged and superbly functional field watch.

Orient Defender II Seiko 5 Field Sports Style
Case Size42mm42.5mm
MaterialsStainless SteelStainless Steel
Water Resistance100 meters/10ATM/330 feet100 meters/10ATM/330 feet
MovementOrient Caliber F6B22 Caliber 4R36
StrapStainless SteelStainless steel bracelets with practical extender function
Additional FeaturesDay-date display, 12/24 hours display.Several models with different dial & strap options
MSRP$170$325

Orient Neo 70s Panda vs Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC769

The Orient Neo 70s Panda is a retro-inspired timepiece with a sporty flair. The watch is one of the best budget panda chronographs that combines functionality and classical design features, but the panda dial makes it extremely appealing.

The dial is pure and clean, with an angled chapter ring on the periphery where the seconds are printed. Three perfectly symmetrical chronograph sub-dials (24 hours, a 60-minute chronograph timer, and a second) at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions keep the watch balanced and unique.

The date window between 4 and 5 o’clock keeps the dial uncluttered while the baton hour markers and handset add to the aesthetical allure. The watch has a depth rating of 100 meters of water resistance and is powered by a solar meca-quartz movement. 

This means the movement is powered and charged directly from sunlight and can hold a charge for up to 6 months. The accuracy of quartz is also one of the unique features of the Neo 70s Panda, as it is very precise. Its accuracy rating per month is within +/- 15 seconds. The watch measures 42mm in diameter, including the crown with a 48mm lug-to-lug measurement and a height of 12 mm.

It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes on a stainless steel bracelet. 

Moving forward, the Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC769 inherits the iconic designs and aesthetics of the Speedtimer series from the 1960s. The watch is fantastic, and everyone who loves motorsport will be captivated by the racing vibes it gives off. 

The dimensions are fitting like the Neo 70s Panda. The round stainless steel case measures 41mm in diameter and has a height of 12mm. Unlike the Neo 70s Panda, the Solar Chronograph SSC769 features a sapphire crystal. The quartz solar watch is powered by the Caliber V172 with an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month. 

The quartz movement has some practical benefits and can hold a charge for up to 6 months. Both watches are priced at around $300.

Orient Neo 70s PandaSeiko Solar Chronograph SSC769
Case Size42mm41mm
Materials  Stainless SteelStainless Steel
Water Resistance100 meters/10ATM/330 feet100 meters/10ATM/330 feet
MovementQuartz (± 15 seconds/month accuracy, 6 months power reserve)Quartz, Caliber V172
StrapStainless Steel BraceletStainless Steel Bracelet
Additional FeaturesChronograph functionChronograph, Tachymeter, Sapphire crystal
MSRP$240$350

Orient Maestro vs Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE

The Orient Maestro is one of the most minimalistic watches out there that is available in a variety of dial colors. Much like the Bambino, the Maestro is an everyday dress watch with an enchanting beauty. 

It debuted in 2019 and features affordable watches with great build quality and durable movements. The Orient Maestro is presented in a sleek 40mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 11.9mm and a lug-to-lug size of 46.1mm.  The case is fully polished and features a thin bezel with a medium-sized push/pull crown at 3 o’clock. 

It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, which means it is suitable for everyday use as you can go swimming and snorkeling with it. The dial is clean, legible, and uncluttered with applied rectangular hour markers and slim mirror-polished hands. 

Few variants are available, including some sunburst versions, which play with light beautifully and render a vibrant appearance to the watch. There is a subtle date window at 3 o’clock in all models and a mineral crystal above the dial. 

It is powered by the in-house automatic Orient caliber F6722 visible through the transparent case back.

Like the Orient Maestro, the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE is a versatile, reliable, and utilitarian watch made for just about any occasion. Seiko decided to bring back everything we loved about the SKX (including the accessible price), and the SRPE model added a dash of elegance to all that.

The watches here are presented on a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter with a height of 11.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm. The general aesthetics of the watches is consistent with that of the average Seiko field watch. 

The dials feature dot hour markers interrupted by rectangular indices at 6 and 9 o’clock and a triangle at 12, while a day-date display is located at 3 o’clock. The main difference between the watch from Seiko and that from Orient is purely cosmetic, as they are both built with durability and strength in mind.

If you are looking for a “beater” watch that keeps utility in the spotlight rather than delicate finesse, the Orient Maestro is the better option two. 

If, however, you want an everyday tool watch with ample lume for enhanced readability, the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE comes in recommended. The SRPE is also more widely recognized, but, all in all, both watches are designed to tell time accurately in adverse environments or whilst on the move.

Orient MaestroSeiko 5 SKX Sports Style SRPE
Case Size40mm40mm
MaterialStainless SteelStainless Steel
Water Resistance100m/10ATM/330 feet100m/10ATM/330 feet
MovementCaliber F6722Caliber 4R36
StrapStainless Steel BraceletStainless Steel Bracelet
Additional FeaturesExhibition case backSee-through & Screw case back
MSRP$170$295

Conclusion

Seiko and Orient are outstanding Japanese brands offering some of the best value in watches. As you can see from the in-depth comparison, both brands take advantage of modern technology and avant-garde designs to create timepieces, so their strengths overlap. That said, it’s just a matter of preference, for this battle has no clear winner. My advice? Add both brands to your collection!

Best Dress Watches Under 10k

So you want to buy a dress watch under $10,000? Excellent!! You already know you want something special. Whether you need it as part of your expanding collection of fine watches or you’re hunting for that one treasure that will become a family heirloom, getting the right dress watch can be daunting.

Reserved for business and formal occasions, a dress watch is an immaculate tribute to the fine art of watchmaking. The first appearance of a dress watch can be traced to the beginning of the 20th century when men began transitioning from pocket watches to elegant wristwatches. Dress watches are a must-have in any collection and are normally characterized by a fuss-free minimalistic design, making them pair flawlessly with suits, jackets, and other formal attires.

The inexplicable charm of a classic dress watch is known to bring untold satisfaction to the wearer, and this is just one of the many reasons why a dress watch will always be in vogue. From Patek Philippe’s Calatrava to Rolex’s Datejust 36, here are some of the best dress watches in the Haute Horlogerie universe under $10,000. 

What to Look for in Dress Watches Under $10,000

Whether you desire to have a quintessential status symbol in your possession or something practical and refined, taking your horological love home isn’t as simple as pulling out your credit card and saying I do. There are a couple of things you need to be informed about, which is why we put this short guide to help you make an informed decision.

Appearance

A timepiece is way more than a utilitarian timekeeping device. It is designed to significantly enhance looks and add an air of sophistication to your apparel, so consider the following.

The Case

Made up of the case back, bezel, and main body, including the lugs, the case of a dress watch is what protects the movement and gives a distinct character to the timepiece.

Every dress watch under $10,000 should have a classic, elegant, and refined case. Steel is the most ubiquitous material in use, even though gold, titanium, platinum, ceramic, and other hybrid materials are often used in the production of cases.

Look out for a fitting dimension depending on the size of your wrist. Most dress watches fall between 34 mm to 40 mm; however, be sure that the profile is thin enough to slide under your cuffs. It should also feature a highly scratch-resistant glass-like sapphire crystal and exquisite finishing.

Dial

Visible through the protective glass is the face of the watch or the dial. Its primary function is to display the time. But beyond that, the overall aesthetic allure of the entire timepiece depends largely on the dial. 

A true dress watch should have a dial void of all excesses. Look out for a dial with a clean, elegant, and minimalistic look with graceful numerals or hour markers and a simple handset.

Though there’s no hard and fast rule, it’s best to stick to black, gray, silver, or white dials with no unnecessary complications in the display.

Strap/Bracelet

The strap/bracelet of a watch is what fastens it around your wrist. It is also called a watch band and may be made of leather, rubber, plastic, or other materials. When it’s made from metal, it is called a bracelet. It is best to opt for a comfortable strap that exudes class and quality. 

The color of the strap is also important, and you should make a selection depending on your style preferences. While metal straps provide durability and are relatively easier to take care of, leather straps are more comfortable, lightweight, and fashionable.

Brand Reputation

Brand reputation is simply the public perception that customers, employees, and partners hold about a brand. Watch manufacturers take years of hard work to build a high degree of trust among their customers, which translates to the “status element” attached to different brands.

Swiss-made watches are reputed to be the best in the world, with legendary watchmakers who have built their enterprise upon the history and heritage of exquisite craftsmanship. Getting a watch from a reputable brand increases the watch’s value and attaches to it a timeless prestige.

There’s also the satisfaction that comes to the wearer just knowing that the watch brand they are wearing is recognized and appreciated. Buying your dress watch from a reputable brand that has built confidence and loyalty by consistently delivering high-quality watches to ensure longevity is important.

Build Quality & Finishing

The degree to which a timepiece is fit and free of all defeats is the build quality. For the build quality of a dress watch under $10,000 to be considered good, the quality of the materials used must be top-notch. Be sure to select a watch that is durable and will last for a very long time in good condition.

Check the spec sheet to find out what kind of material was used for the watch, and never buy a low-quality watch simply because it looks good. The finishing is a final touch performed to decorate the watch and offer it a more refined look. 

Movement

The movement (or caliber) of a watch is the internal engine that supplies energy to the timepiece and makes it run. It is one of the most important parts of the timepiece that drives whatever complication the watch features and moves the hands.

The three main types of movements include; quartz, manual-wind, and automatic. Quartz watches are powered by batteries and electricity. Automatic watches, on the other hand, are self-winding, while manually-wound watches require you to wind the crown every so often to avoid running out.

Mechanical watches are often appreciated more by collectors because they make excellent heirloom watches and are exquisitely decorated.

Value Retention

Here is one last crucial element; value retention. This is the difference between what you pay for a dress watch and what it eventually sells for a couple of years later. Not every luxury watch retains its value after you leave the store, and if you’re looking for a timepiece with a good return on investment, it’s best to consider this point carefully.

A couple of factors determine whether or not a watch will hold its value. They include brand prestige, rarity, aesthetics, and exclusive mechanical movements (especially if it’s in-house). Of course, you have to ensure that the watch is well maintained if you want it to retain its value, so treat your timepiece and all its accessories with as much care as possible.

The Best Dress Watches Under $10,000

1. Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)

Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)

Priced at $6,700, the Omega De Ville Trésor Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001 is a perfect demonstration of exquisite craftsmanship from one of the most iconic and famous luxury watch brands in the world. The dress watch has a superlative aesthetic sensibility and comes in a steel case that measures 40mm across.

The timepiece pays tribute to the first model of the Omega Trésor line, which was released way back in 1949. That said, the design and personality of Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001 encapsulates the bewitching charm of vintage watches from the 1950s.

The case has a sleek profile and measures 10.1mm in height. As you would expect from a reputable brand with decades of watch-making expertise, the case is highly polished throughout and features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

The domed opaline silvery dial is clean, uncluttered, and highly legible with hands and indexes in 18K white gold. The placement of the date window at 6 o’clock and the logo and brand name at 12 respects the elegant symmetry of the dial.

The watch houses the legendary 30mm Calibre 8910 that guarantees the Swiss industry’s highest standard of precision. It is visible via the transparent case back.

2. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW259

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW259

Grand Seiko is a fast-rising luxury watchmaker with divine prowess in crafting aesthetically magnificent watches. The brand is distinguished for being the premium sibling of the highly famous Japanese watch manufacturer; Seiko. Grand Seiko’s passion for pushing boundaries has made it a top-tier watchmaker today.

The Ref. SBGW259 from the Elegance Collection is an attestation to the creativity of the brand’s master craftsman. The timepiece, a recreation of the first ever Grand Seiko produced in December 1960, was launched in 2020 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of that icon.

The design codes are highly respected. The shape of the watch is identical to the first of its kind but now comes in a Brilliant Hard Titanium case exclusive only to the brand. The case now measures 38mm (as opposed to 35mm) and features the ‘Zaratsu polishing’, which makes Grand Seiko’s cases so attractive.

The dial is instantly recognizable as a production from the luxury brand and features perfectly finished mirror-polished hands and indexes executed in the traditional Japanese way with profound attention to detail. It is powered by the Calibre 9S64, which provides a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound.

3. Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (ref. 6651 1143 55B)

Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (ref. 6651 1143 55B)

watches of all time. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has demonstrated exquisite craftsmanship and incomparable aesthetic sensibility in all its watches since its founding by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain in the year 1735.

Ultraplate means  “ultra flat”, and that is what sets the Ref. 6651 1143 55B apart. The classic dress watch features a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter and has a thickness of just 8.35mm. The slim profile of the watch, coupled with the short lugs, means the watch will easily accommodate a range of wrists.

The stark dial features polished silver Roman numerals affixed to the dial by hand. The slender, open-worked leaf hands bring depth to the simple design of the dial, while the discreet date window at 3 maintains the symmetry and adds to its appeal.

The Caliber 1151, with an ultra-slim height of just 3.25mm, provides a robust 4-day power reserve. The watch is priced at $10,400 and comes fitted with a classic black alligator strap. You can get it here.

4. Glashütte Original Sixties (ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04)

Glashütte Original Sixties (ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04)

Glashütte is one of the most famous German watchmakers, firmly positioned among the top-tier watch manufacturers in the world. The Sixties collection debuted in 2007. The watches’ inspiration comes from vintage Spezimatic timepieces manufactured during the German Democratic Republic (GDR) era from 1949 to 1990.

The Ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04 is a unique one-of-a-kind timepiece that is enchanting, making it a highly coveted watch among collectors. The watch is housed in a 39mm stainless steel case with a height of 9.40mm. The diminutive dimensions are enhanced by short lugs and a curved sapphire crystal case back, making the watch exceptionally comfortable to wear.

The retro dial is the undisputed champion of the show and comes with striking features that will charm the wearer endlessly. The stick and Arabic numerals are slightly curved to homogenize with the curved dial.

The galvanized black dial is captivating with a matte surface that has a pronounced rough surface which adds depth to the watch. The watch is powered by a Glashütte Original manufacture movement, the Caliber 39-52, with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. You can get it here.

5. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme (ref. J007010240)

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme (ref. J007010240)

Founded in 1721 by Pierre Jaquet-Droz, Jaquet Droz is a luxury watch brand known for producing complex and intricate timepieces. The prestigious Maison, which is currently part of the Swatch Group’s Prestige and Luxury division, is the world’s 36th most recognized Swiss brand.

Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case, the Ref. J007010240 pays tribute to the first grande seconde model released in 1785. The pocket watch featured a graceful figure of eight made by intertwining large seconds counter at 6 o’clock and a smaller one at 12 o’clock for the hours and minutes.

The enchanting design was brought to life again in 2002 and remains Jaquet Droz’s flagship product with countless adaptations. The round case of the watch measures 11.52mm in height and is mounted on a velvety blue rolled-edge alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasps.

The silver dial, as the grande seconde model made 235 years ago, features the elegant figure-eight layout and is adorned with vibrant blued hands, applied markers, and a blue date ring for the pointer date. The watch is equipped with an in-house automatic movement, the Jaquet Droz 2660Q2, that provides a power reserve of 68 hours. Get it here.

6. Longines Master Collection Silver Dial 40mm (ref. L2.793.8.78.3)

Longines Master Collection Silver Dial 40mm (ref. L2.793.8.78.3)

The Master Collection from Longines features a lineup of extremely complicated and impressively simple mechanical watches produced to the highest possible standard. Longines is the oldest registered watch brand in the world, with a strong heritage in the watchmaking industry.

The Swiss Marque is famous for pioneering many legendary creations such as the ‘13.33Z’, which was the first ever Chronograph movement designed for a wristwatch. The Ref. L2.793.8.78.3 perfectly illustrates the exquisite craftsmanship that the brand exercises to meet and exceed the highest standards of precision, durability, and elegance.

The 18-karat pink gold case measures 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 9.80mm and a lug distance of 21mm. The silver “barleycorn” dial has a blasted finish that gives off a finely-grained texture. It is adorned with vivid blued steel hands that give it depth and character and painted Arabic numerals.

Decorated to Longines’s high standards, the transparent case back with sapphire crystal reveals the classic caliber L888. The self-winding mechanical movement beats at 25,200 vibrations per hour and guarantees a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

7. Rolex Datejust 36 (ref. 126234)

Rolex Datejust 36 (ref. 126234)

Everyone knows what a Rolex is and what it looks like, and despite being among the highest producers of luxury watches, the brand is firmly positioned among the most successful watchmakers with a class that is impossible to beat.

The Datejust is one of the earliest models from the brand that first debuted in 1945 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Rolex. The collection entails an amazing catalog of versatile, elegant, and high-quality timepieces that get die-hard enthusiasts and casual watch lovers hot under the collar.

Crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel, the Datejust 36 Ref. 126234 comes in a fully polished 36mm case with a mixed-finished Jubilee bracelet. The dress watch is only 12mm thick and has a lug-to-lug distance of 43.3mm, making it even more slender and sleek when worn.

The fluted bezel contains 18k white gold, while the middle case is made from OysterSteel. Ensuring a water resistance rating of 100 meters is the crown, which is fitted with the Twinlock double locking system.

The dial of Ref. 126234-0049 is blue and features the familiar Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock and 18k gold hour markers and hands. It is powered by the in-house caliber 3235, a certified Superlative Chronometer movement that offers a precision of 2/+2 seconds. It provides a power reserve of 70 hours and comes with a five-year guarantee.

8. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 3919)

Patek Philippe has been making exceptional watches since 1839, making it one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world. For almost two centuries, the Swiss watch brand has dedicated its efforts to mastering every aspect of fine watchmaking.

It is one of the last independent watchmakers famous for creating Haute Horology timepieces that meet and exceed the highest standards of elegance, durability, accuracy, and grand style.

The brand is also known to design and produce some of the most complicated mechanical watches in the world, so it doesn’t confine its skills to a single niche. The Calatrava model has been the gold standard of just what an iconic dress watch should be like since its appearance in the early 1930s.

It has remained Patek Philippe’s flagship dress watch for over eight decades, and the Ref. 3919 continues onward in this proud tradition with mesmerizing features. The 18k gold case measures 33mm in diameter and is just 6.5mm thick. The bezel features double layers of mini pyramid accents that add sophistication to the otherwise bland, understated dress watch.

The crisp white lacquer dial is clean, legible, and elegant with black Roman numerals, a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and leaf-style hour and minute hands. It is powered by the Caliber 215 PS movement, which provides approximately 44 hours of power reserve.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)

The Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is a watch that is both eccentric and striking. The patented case from Jaeger-LeCoultre started life as a practical solution for some British officers in India in the early 1930s. These men were distressed by the error of breaking the crystal glass on their watches repeatedly during polo matches.

The Reverso was a functional swiveling case with a rectilinear shape capable of being completely turned over. The invention was a trail-blazing novelty that immediately distinguished Jaeger-LeCoultre from other ubiquitous pocket and pendant watch producers. The Ref. Q713842J pays tribute to the first genuine icon and comes in an 8.51 mm thick case that measures 45.6 x 27.4mm (L x W).

The brand reports that the case is produced and hand-assembled by a specialized team, and the design of the dial is in line with the codes that laid the foundation of the first Reverso.

The opaline dial is straightforward, clean, and elegant with applied faceted hour markers, Dauphine-style hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is a rectangular railway minute track on the periphery of the dial in black print. 

The watch is equipped with the Manufacture hand-wound Calibre 822, which delivers a power reserve of 45 hours. It comes with a black Casa Fagliano-designed bi-material strap (leather/canvas).

10. Cartier Tank Française Large (ref. WSTA0067)

Cartier Tank Française Large (ref. WSTA0067)

Established in 1847, Cartier is a world-renowned jeweler known for producing some of the most exquisite and ultra-high-end timepieces that have graced the wrists of celebrities. The luxury watchmaker is a favorite choice of royalty and celebrities alike, as its watches are often unique, elegant, and enchanting.

The Tank collection, in particular, is one of the famous models from the brand that was designed by Louis Cartier in 1917. Louis drew his inspiration from the Renault Tank FT, which the French forces used in the later stages of World War I. 

The Tank Francaise, which was a bestseller in the 1990s, made a bold comeback recently. The line now features elegant watches with contemporary features but still keeps the look of the armored vehicle it was named after. The shape of the watch is squared still and is presented with an integrated strap held between two straight parallel brancards.

The watch features a 36.5mm x 28.15mm stainless steel case with an octagonal crown in yellow gold at 3 o’clock. The crown is adorned with a blue cabochon, while the silvered flinqué dial is decorated with Roman numerals and a railroad minute track. 

Blued sword-shaped hands add elegance to the face of the watch, while a calendar aperture at 6 o’clock maintains the symmetry of the watch. It is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement with 38 hours of power reserve.

11. IWC Portofino Automatic (ref. IW356501)

 IWC Portofino Automatic (ref. IW356501)

IWC (International Watch Co. Schaffhausen) was founded by Florentine Ariosto Jones, a young watchmaker from Boston, in 1868. The brand is known to demonstrate an intuitive understanding of aesthetics coupled with precision and excellence at every stage of its production process. The Portofino Automatic is a signature model remarkable for its distinct timelessness and visually appealing minimalistic dial.

The watch comes in a 40 mm wide round case identical to the Portofino family. The height of the stainless steel case is 9.2 mm, and it is highly polished and refined with straight, thin lugs. The dial is clean and uncluttered yet elegant and very attractive.

The smooth silver-plated dial features a cute date window at 3 o’clock, a peripheral minute track, and applied silver-plated indices with Roman numerals XII and VI for 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively.

Time is indicated by a sleek and beautiful leaf-shaped hour and minute hand. Powering the watch is the automatic, self-winding Calibre 35111. The movement beats at a frequency of 28800 VPH (4 Hz), has 163 Components with 25 Jewels, and provides a power reserve of 42 hours.

12. Zenith Elite Moonphase (ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923)

Zenith Elite Moonphase (ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923)

The Ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923 is an elegant watch inspired by the aesthetic designs of classic watches from the 1950s. The timepiece is presented in a 40.5mm steel case. The ultra-thin in-house manufactured movement with a power reserve of 50 hours under the hood allows the case to have a thickness of just 9.35mm. This feature makes it the perfect dress watch, slim enough to slide in comfortably under your cuff.

The slate grey dial features a very simple seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and moon phase at 6. It is strikingly different due to the stamped sunray pattern on the surface that emanates beautifully from the center all the way to the periphery of the dial. The watch comes fitted with a gray alligator leather strap. 

13. Laine V38 Frosted

Torsti Laine is one of those iconic watchmakers you probably have no idea about but should. After he graduated from the Finnish School of Watchmaking, he worked with A. Lange & Söhne F.A. Lange, and showed such outstanding potential that ultimately earned him the Watchmaking Excellence Award in 2014.

He went on to start manufacturing elegant watches under his eponymous brand. The V38 Frosted comes in a stainless steel case that measures 38mm across and has a thickness of only 9mm. The beautiful case is fully polished and features a domed sapphire crystal on top with an anti-reflective coating. 

The dial is the star of the show and features a guilloche center with a frosted outer portion. An applied steel ring encompasses the inner section and separates it from the frozen area while also bordering a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is a minute track on the edge of the dial and applied Breguet-style numerals in white gold on the outer ring.

Visible through the case back is the Vaucher VMF 5401 micro-rotor movement with 160 components and 29 jewels. The visual appeal is very satisfying as even the edges are beveled and polished by hand. The watch is fitted with a natural tan Babele leather and is priced at approximately $10,000.

14. MeisterSinger Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold (ref. LS908G)

MeisterSinger Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold (ref. LS908G)

Founded in 2001 by Manfred Brassler and based in Münster, Germany, MeisterSinger is a luxury watch brand renowned for its single-handed watches. All the watches produced by the brand are extremely well made and feature iconic designs that fuse traditional style with present-day creativity.

The Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold watch is, in very simple terms, a breathtaking poetic piece bound to enchant the wearer endlessly. The watch comes in a stainless steel case that measures 41mm across with a lug width of 20mm and height of 12mm. The case has a slim bezel that takes the focus to the expansive dial.

The blue dial is a classic MeisterSinger with just one hand simultaneously indicating the hours and minutes. The layout is very familiar; however, there’s an oversized moon phase sitting at the upper half of the watch that looks very realistic. It is romantic, poetic, and beautiful.

There’s a circular date window at 6 o’clock and gold-plated applied hour markers that pair well with the moon (colored in gold), adding a luxurious touch to the watch. The exhibition case back offers a view of the MS Luna automatic movement, which is based on the Swiss Sellita SW220. The rotor offers a power reserve of 38 hours to the Ref. LS908G. You can get it here.

15. Louis Erard Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition (ref. 34238AA54.BVA95)

Louis Erard Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition (ref. 34238AA54.BVA95)

Founded in 1929, Louis Erard is a relentless fighter in the now sparse ranks of affordable luxury watches. The aim of the independent Swiss watch manufacturer has always been to make the most exclusive craftsmanship accessible.

That said, the Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition is a luxury watch that comes in a sleek 39mm stainless steel case. The case back is a pane of sapphire crystal which affords a beautiful view of the self-winding movement powering the watch. The self-winding Sellita SW261-1 will run autonomously for up to 38 hours when fully wound and has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz).

The Grand Feu dial is what confers luxury and elegance to the watch because the quality of an enamel dial is always unsurpassable. Due to the complexity of the craft, many watch brands shun the production of such dials, but the results are often satisfying. 

The lustrous appearance of the dial here has an eternal-like depth that is very captivating. It is adorned by vivid blue Roman numerals and triangular batons which denote the hours. The 12 o’clock index is red, providing a much-welcomed liveliness to the dial and matching very well with the red-grained calfskin leather strap on the watch.

Conclusion

Dress watches have evolved significantly since they first appeared in the 20th century. Even though the classic rules for what a dress watch should represent have softened over the years, the quintessential design codes have remained the same. 

That said, dress watches will always be the meeting point of style and etiquette, so don’t hesitate to treat yourself to an exquisite timekeeper!

rolex kermit vs starbucks

It’s a known fact that Rolex is the crowned king of Haute Horology. Even total watch novices know that the brand has been in the business of making bucket-list-worthy watches since 1905.

The assertion that the Submariner is the most popular collection in the world – superseding all others in relevance and status – isn’t a utopian belief.

From the famous oceanographer Jacques-Yves Cousteau wearing one in the film “Le Monde du silence”, to James Bond flaunting the Submariner as the iconic watch par excellence, the Sub has adorned the wrists of history makers. 

Owning a Submariner means owning one of the best timepieces in the entire world, but not all Subs are created equally, which is where this article comes in. Held in veneration by acolytes of the Submariner and prissy watch collectors, the Kermit and Starbucks models are among the most celebrated and debated Subs in the past century.

But why are these models so hotly debated, and how do they perform against each other? Is there really any striking difference between them, and which one is the best option for you? Let’s find out!

About the Rolex Kermit

The first Submariner models officially debuted at Baselworld in 1954. The Ref. 6204 was the first diving watch made to be waterproof up to 100m. It was clear Rolex had huge plans for the Submariner from the beginning, and one of such was to leave a  legacy as one of the most important sports watches in history.

The Rolex Kermit was launched in 2003 to mark the 50th anniversary of the extolled Rolex Submariner collection. The first reference was 16610LV, and it came with a black dial and a green aluminum bezel. The unorthodox color choice was very unexpected, and the watch quickly garnered mixed reactions from Rolex’s fanbase.

The release was a surprise to the watch world and was also the very first Sub equipped with a green bezel. Many nicknames were attributed to the strange release, but the one that stuck was the ‘Kermit’.

Collectors choose to call the 16610LV the ‘Kermit’ because of the similarity in the coloring between the famous green frog and the Submariner’s bezel. The “LV” in the reference number represents “lunette verte,” which is French for “green bezel.” 

The 166170LV is presented in a compact 40mm case with a thickness of 13mm. The dial is a ‘maxi-dial’, meaning the markers and hands are larger than average to allow better visibility and more lumen for reading the time at night. The watch has a water-resistant rating of 300 meters, uses the Calibre 3135, and is mounted on a hollow link Oyster bracelet made of 904L stainless steel. 

Production was discontinued after seven years to make way for the new green Sub by way of the 116610LV “Hulk.” The Kermit remains the ultimate symbol of success and prestige and is one hell of a diver that makes for a great investment and family heirloom. 

Since its discontinuation, demand for the anniversary piece has grown, making it highly sought-after by collectors and enthusiasts.

About the Rolex Starbucks

Launched in September 2020, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV “Starbucks” was among the four new models added to the world’s most famous dive watch collection.

The Submariner began life as a perfect diver’s instrument, and the tough tests it victoriously survived made it fixated as Rolex’s flagship model. From 1953 to the date, the line has certainly evolved but not the base concept and design code.

The Ref. 126610LV was a fresh entry, joining the ranks of other prestigious green-themed Submariners such as the Rolex Kermit and the Rolex Hulk. It was nicknamed Starbucks because of its black dial and green bezel that evoked images of the iconic green Starbucks coffee chain logo. 

The design of the Starbucks seems to step away from Rolex’s otherwise conservative brand philosophy but stays faithful to the original model launched in 1953. It is 1mm bigger than its predecessor, the Ref. 116610LV (or the Hulk) and comes with a more vintage look and prominent classic proportions such as narrower horns.

Another unique feature of the Starbucks is that it is the first Sub equipped with a Calibre 3235. The Calibre 3235 comprises the Rolex Chronergy escapement with 15% improved efficiency. Starbucks continues to enrich the symbolism of Rolex today, ensuring that the brand’s cultural value continues to grow. 

Whether it’s your first investment or an epic addition to your collection, Starbucks Ref. 126610LV is an elevated emblem of ambition for the Everyman across the planet. Since it has been built to the highest possible standard of design and functionality, diving professionals will also find it extremely useful.

Rolex Kermit vs Starbucks

The Rolex Kermit was the first generation of the green diver’s watch, which premiered in 2003 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Submariner collection. Starbucks Ref. 126610LV, on the other hand, is the third generation. The release of the Starbucks was quite significant because Rolex completely redesigned the Submariner collection at the same time. 

The watch still featured a green bezel, but there was something “extra” about it, thanks to an upgrade in size, bezel material, and movement. Collectors have since been divided on whether it should go by the nickname ‘Kermit 2.0’ or ‘Cermit’ since it comes in the same colorway as the original Kermit and shares almost the same features.

What are the differences between these two icons? Is the Starbucks really just a reissue of the legendary Kermit Sub? Read on as we detail the variations of these two collectibles.

Appearance

Case

For several decades, the Submariner has measured 40mm in diameter. The Rolex Kermit 16610LV followed suit and came in a 904L stainless steel case (or Oyster Steel) that retained its predecessors’ 40mm diameter and 20mm lug width. 

The case of the Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, has been increased by 1mm and features more tapered lugs, which appear thinner and more angled. The lug width has also been increased from 20mm to 21mm, though the height of both watches remains practically the same, around 12.5mm.

Aesthetically, the Starbucks Sub is slightly more elegant, especially when you discover that even the crown guards have been redesigned and are more angled and symmetrical, giving the watch more flow, more curves, and less bulk.

The similarities would be that both cases are finished with brushed surfaces and polished sides and come with a Triplock crown, sapphire crystal, and screwed case back. The sapphire crystal of the Starbucks 126610LV, however, features an anti-reflective coating on the inner side, while the Kermit 16610LV does not.

Again for both watches, the construction, execution, and finishing are on par with all Rolex models. They are also both water resistant to 300 meters or 1,000ft.

The Dial and Bezel

Framing the dial of both watches is a classic unidirectional diving bezel with easy-to-read markers and a 60-click motion. The difference, however, is that the  Kermit 16610LV has a green aluminum bezel insert, while the Starbucks 126610LV features a bezel made of stainless steel with a knurled edge and Cerachrom insert. 

Cerachrom is manufactured by Rolex from an extremely hard ceramic material that is virtually impervious to scratches. It is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. As a result, the green color appears a bit more restrained and provides less contrast under certain light conditions compared to the Kermit 16610LV. 

The aluminum bezel of the Kermit features a more racing green color, like the character it’s nicknamed after. There isn’t a lot of noticeable difference between the dials. The Maxi-Dial layout retains the same design with oversized markers largely filled with blue-emitting Chromalight. However, the hands seem to have been reworked just a little bit. 

The minute hand now has a wider luminescent insert, and unlike that of the 16610LV, it touches the minute track. The Mercedes hour hand also appears slightly wider, and the entire dial feels a bit more expanded due to the extra 1mm.

Lastly, the dial of the Starbucks features a small crown in between the “Swiss Made” text at 6 o’clock, while the Kermit omits this.

Bracelet & Clasp

Rolex knows more than any other watch brand in the world not to change a proven recipe. That said, both watches are worn on the typical Rolex Oyster bracelet. The perfectly integrated 3-link bracelet is fully brushed on its flat surfaces while the sides are polished.

Since the lug width of the Starbucks has been increased by 1mm (and is now 21mm), its entire profile, from lugs to clasp, has also been redesigned. The larger bracelet visually reduces the increase in the case size, but the larger clasp (which is also one additional millimeter compared to the Kermit) doesn’t look as elegant as the compact clasp on the Kermit.

Unlike the Kermit, the Starbucks bracelet also doesn’t feel too tapered at the buckle, which is characteristic of older Rolex Submariners.

Movements

The major difference between the Starbucks and Kermit isn’t visual but mechanical. The Kermit 16610LV is powered by the reliable Calibre 3135, an automatic movement first introduced in 1988. The workhorse movement quickly became Rolex’s main movement and appeared in most Rolex date models before 2015. 

It is COSC-certified as a Superlative Chronometer with 31 jewels and is powered by a bidirectional rotor. It also features a balance wheel made of glucydur and a Parachrom hairspring, which allows better resistance to shocks and temperature variations. The Calibre 3135 offers a frequency of 28.800 vph and displays center seconds, hours, minutes, and date at 3 o’clock.

The Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, is powered by a movement that could be called every watchmaker’s dream; Rolex’s Calibre 3235. The movement was officially released at Baselworld 2015 and is at the forefront of watchmaking technology with a whopping 14 patents.

The COSC-certified has a longer power reserve when compared to its predecessor, the Calibre 3135– 70 hours vs. 48 hours (almost 50 percent bump). The focus of the Calibre 3235 is to offer significant improvements in terms of precision, reliability, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. 

The accuracy of the Kermit’s Calibre 3135  falls between -4/+6 seconds per day, while that of the Calibre 3235 is of the order of -2 /+2 seconds per day. This rating is more than twice the required official chronometer accuracy.

The Rolex-patented blue Parachrom hairspring is still present in the Calibre 3235; however, it has been updated and tweaked, making it 10 times more precise than traditional hairsprings in case of shocks.

Price & Availability

At the time of launch, the Kermit retailed for around $5,000. However, production ceased in 2010 and so if you’re looking to own the Kermit ref. 16610LV, the pre-owned market, is the only viable route.

Even though there wasn’t an immediate jump in price after its discontinuation, the popularity of the Submariner Kermit made it appreciate in the collector’s market over the years. Prices for a pre-owned Submariner Kermit 16610LV in good condition start from approximately $15,500 in the second-hand online marketplace. 

The Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, has been gracing the shelves of official retailers since 2020 and is available for purchase only on those shelves. I say this because you can’t buy a Rolex watch directly via the brand’s website. There is a list of their official jewelers where you can (and should) purchase a Rolex with guaranteed authenticity.

The average price for a new Starbucks 126610LV is $18,495, and it is covered by the official Rolex international warranty for five years.

Value Retention & Investment

Every watch connoisseur knows that Rolex watches hold their value better than most high-end brands of luxury watches. The Kermit was produced between 2003 and 2010, and since Rolex is not producing any new model, the resale value of the Ref. 16610LV has escalated in the secondhand market. 

The absolutely collectible watch can be seen on marketplaces selling for as high as $23,000 (over four times its original price) and enjoys an ever-growing demand on the gray market. The limited availability of the watch also means that there is an investment opportunity here, as the huge surge in popularity doesn’t seem to be declining anytime soon. 

The Starbucks will also retain its value for generations to come, provided you protect it from unnecessary wear-and-tear and keep the original box, papers, and accessories intact. If we compare the value retention of the Kermit vs. Starbucks, the green anniversary timepiece certainly has more resale value and is a better investment option due to its relative scarcity. 

Rare and hard-to-find timepieces always attract the highest bids at the auction, but if, at any stage, Rolex decides to discontinue the Starbucks, its price in the secondary market will skyrocket.

Conclusion

While the Kermit and Starbucks are equal in terms of quality, execution, assembly, and finishing, the Kermit will always remain the iconic 50th-anniversary model. The magic of the Kermit has earned it a cult status, and even though the small tweaks on the Starbucks do make a major difference, the  Kermit remains the more desirable watch.

That said, it will go down in history as the first legendary green Sub and will remain highly sought after among collectors.

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