Author: Andrew O'Connor

It seems that most watch enthusiasts point to Sean Connery wearing a Rolex Submariner with a white dinner jacket in Dr.No as the epitome of cool and a testament to the versatility of dive watches. While sartorial experts may argue, pop culture has deemed a dive watch one of the most versatile watches one could own. 

Dive watches are built to withstand the pressure of going deep underwater, along with the associated potential hardships of being in an aquatic vessel before and after a dive. Because of this, they can surely handle the commute. 

Their design origins are strictly utilitarian. The case must be durable, and the dial must be legible in all lighting situations. These priorities have lent their way to clean, purposeful designs that speak to a variety of people, regardless of their aquatic intentions. 

With utility being the focus, color and whimsy fall by the wayside. A black dial with white, glowing indices makes sense, and Doxa’s experimentation with color resulted in Jacques-Yves Cousteau favoring their now-famous orange dial because of its increased legibility under water. 

As the importance of mechanical dive watches fades with professional divers utilizing more modern technology, the design of dive watches is allowed to be freer. Today, we see various interpretations of dive watches that stray from their purposeful design, including white-dialed dive watches. 

About Dive Watches

As mentioned, dive watches are built to be used underwater. The original purpose was to time the elapsed time of a dive. This was incredibly important, as it allowed a diver to time how much oxygen they had left in their tank. The rotating bezel was set to the start time, allowing for fast reading of how much time has passed.

Original dive watches had bezels that spun in both directions, which could add time to the dive, meaning the diver could run out of oxygen. Unidirectional ratcheting bezels made certain that they only moved in one direction, potentially shortening the dive instead of lengthening it. 

With timing being a true life-or-death matter, increased water resistance and legibility were necessary. Most divers will never go to the depths that their watches are rated to. Except for certain situations such as saturation diving, having a 300m rated dive watch is more of an insurance policy than a necessity when diving. 

Additionally, legibility, especially in low-light situations, is very important. As divers descend deeper into the water, sunlight decreases. If your watch floods with water and you cannot read what time you are supposed to go back up, its functionality is greatly diminished. 

History of Dive Watches

Dust and moisture have been the bane of watchmakers since the mechanical watch came into being. Various methods of sealing the movement have come about, with some more successful than others. The most notable improvement came about in 1926, with Rolex introducing its first Oyster case.

With a screw-down crown and screw-in caseback, practical water resistance took a massive leap forward. Omega came out with the first purpose-built dive watch in 1932, the Omega Marine. While it looks nothing like the dive watches of today, the inner case slid into an outer case that, when clamped down, sealed the watch.

Additionally, it was one of the first watches to use a sapphire crystal. These developments allowed the watch to dive to the bottom of Lake Geneva, for a total of 73 meters. Pressure chamber testing later determined a total pressure rating of 135 meters.

In 1936, the Panerai Radiomir was first produced, introducing a large dial and luminous paint for nighttime and dark water legibility.  Jumping to 1953, Rolex produced its first Deep Sea prototype, which survived a depth of 3150 meters in 1953, and then 10,916 meters in 1960, thanks to a large domed sapphire crystal.

While still not a dive watch by modern standards, it was another large improvement in water resistance technology. The world did not see what we recognize as a modern dive watch until 1953 with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.

The following year, Rolex released its Submariner, and 1957 saw the release of the Omega Seamaster. These watches all featured legible black dials, luminous markers and hands, screw-down crowns and case backs, and a rotating timing bezel. While designs have definitely been modernized, dive watches have largely stayed the same for the last 70 years. 

Should You Buy A White Dial Dive Watch?

With legibility being a key part of dive watch design, it makes sense that most dive watches have dark dials with white or light-colored indices and hands. A white dial seems to be an act of defiance compared to the original purpose of these tool watches.

With mechanical dive watches having been largely replaced by dive computers, this frees mechanical dive watches up to be more fashion-oriented than their original intention. White-dialed dive watches are usually still highly legible on dry land during the day; it is dim lighting and shallow water where white dials are not as legible.

Even if white-dialed dive watches do not seem as immediately practical as their dark-dialed counterparts, some offer improved visibility with various dial and indices treatments. Others do focus on a bold look, as a mostly white watch will stand out on the wrist more than a dark dial. Because of the brighter look, they will appear more youthful, lending themselves to vibrant strap choices. 

The Best White Dial Dive Watches

Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.04.001) 

When the wave dial motif returned to the Seamster in 2018, enthusiasts were ecstatic. ETA movements were no longer used, and Omega introduced the Caliber 8800 to the Seamaster Professional. This METAS Master Chronometer certified movement features increased anti-magnetism rated to above 15,000 gauss.

It has a certified accuracy of -0/+6 seconds a day, ensuring a high level of practical accuracy for a mechanical watch. The 42mm wide stainless steel case is larger than prior generations, making the watch bolder on the wrist, with thicker lugs and case height and an updated thicker bracelet.

The white-dialed Seamaster Diver 300m features black outlined indices and hands, which aids in visibility, especially considering the white dial. The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver is no slouch. With 300 meters of water resistance and a helium release valve, it can handle saturation diving. 

The variety of polished and brushed finishes on the case and bracelet though contribute to its versatility, allowing it to go from boardroom to board shorts if this matches your style. The white dial Omega Seamster Professional Diver retails for $5600 on the bracelet, which is a bargain considering the technology, finishing, and innovation included in this timepiece.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique White Dial (ref. 5015-1127-52A)

Blancpain was the first brand to develop what we would consider a modern dive watch in 1953, beating Rolex by one year. Their Fifty-Fathoms line is their flagship dive watch, taking inspiration from the original design from 1953. 

The Fifty Fathoms uses an in-house caliber 1315, which is a fairly high-jeweled movement with 35 jewels and a 120-hour power reserve. While t he finishing may look spartan in photos, in real life, the movement decoration is quite detailed and done to a high level, with large beveled edges and detailed brushwork on the plates.

With its white dial, silver hands, and silver with white luminescent indices, legibility will be compromised some. However, with the white bezel covered with a sapphire insert, and white strap, this watch is more about making a statement than being a fully functional tool watch. 

The bold looks do not detract from the watch’s durability, as it is rated to 300 meters of water resistance. Additionally, there is still enough lume on the dial and bezel to track the time during aquatic adventures.

This reference is no longer in the Blancpain catalog. However, searching and patience should allow for a good example to come up on the secondary market. 

Panerai Luminor Marina White (ref. PAM01314) 

Panerai was responsible for developing one of the first aquatic-oriented watches. Their first model, the Radiomir, had a large dial with a luminescence that allowed it to be legible underwater and in low-light situations, a requirement of the Italian Navy in 1938. 

The second model they introduced, the Luminor, increased the water resistance by including a crown-locking mechanism, which boldly sits on the right side of the case. In addition to the large crown mechanism, another hallmark of Panerai is its use of sandwich dials. 

This multi-layer dial construction consists of the lower layer containing luminescent paint, and the upper dial has the numerals and indices cut out, allowing for them to glow in low-light environments. 

While the monochromatic look of the white dial and grey indices may seem dull, leave it to Panerai to make it a bold-looking watch. The 44mm case is large, but Panerai watches have always been large, so it does come with the territory.

Should something smaller be necessary, Panerai does offer similar watches in smaller sizes. Inside the PAM01314 is the Panerai P.9010 calibre. The movement utilizes two mainspring barrels to achieve a 72-hour power reserve.

The watch is rated to 300 meters of water resistance, making it more than water ready. Famously, Panerai fans known as Paneristi have a thriving online community, sharing their watches and daring strap combinations. The Panerai PAM01314 retails for $8400.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver (ref. WBP201DFT6197) 

The TAG Heuer Night Diver’s calling card is not just its white dial but the entirely lumed dial. The large 43mm black DLC coated steel case, black ceramic bezel, and textured white dial will make a statement on the wrist. 

The dial has white lumed indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock and black indices for the remainder, with a date at 6 o’clock as well. The black indices on a white dial are very bold and striking. As mentioned, the entire dial is lumed, meaning the white dial glows green in the dark. 

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver should definitely be considered if low-light legibility is a top concern. The attached rubber strap includes a micro-adjust clasp, making for easy adjustments without tools. The movement inside is an ETA, or Sellita-based ebauche TAG Heuer refers to as their Calibre 5. 

The black case and luminescent dial won’t be as flexible with wardrobes compared to other watches on this list, but making a statement seems to be the name of the game here.

Retailing at $3750, the TAG Heuer Night Diver does seem a bit expensive compared to similar dive watches, but few watches have such a bold, high-contrast look, especially from a well-known brand. 

Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.80.0) 

Longines was one of the first brands to bring heritage-inspired designs to their modern catalog. The brand first released the Legend Diver in 2007, but the 42mm size, while true to the original, wore quite large for many wrists. 

The 36mm size was introduced in 2019 and is true to other super compressors style divers of the time. The Legend Diver 36 wears like a vintage watch, measuring only 11.9mm thick, which is quite impressive for a 300m dive watch. Because of the inner rotating bezel, the dial does appear a bit smaller than usual, but the long lugs ensure some presence on the wrist.

The dial on this model is a white Mother of Pearl, adding more of a jewelry element to the timepiece. Reading the dial under normal light should be easy, considering the numerals and indices are black. But, low-light situations will be difficult as there is minimal lume on the dial. 

If emphasizing the jewelry element is desired, there is a mesh bracelet option as well. If the Mother of Pearl is a bit showy, there is also a beige version released in 2022. Recent updates to the model include a silicone balance and a 5-year warranty.

The Longines Legend Diver 36mm retails for $2,400 on the white strap and $2,500 on the Milanese-style bracelet. 

Oris Aquis Date 36.5mm White Dial (ref. 01 733 7731 4151-07 4 18 63FC) 

Oris has become an enthusiast favorite in the last several years. Operating as an independent company, they have been relatively swift to react to enthusiast requests. Additionally, they have offered a relatively high value per dollar, with a solid case, dial, and bracelet finishing for the money. 

The Aquis line is the brand’s modern dive watch collection. Offered on both bracelets and scented rubber straps, the integrated design of the lugs contributes to the bold look of the diver. 

This white dial, ceramic bezel, and rubber strap version make this watch feel ready for summer adventures. While 36.5mm will seem like a great choice for smaller watch fans, these watches wear a bit smaller than their stated dimensions. Inside the 300-meter rated steel case is the Oris 733, which is based on the SW200-1.

The movement is customized with a red rotor, a signature of the brand. Should you be quite slight of wrist and looking for a stylish diver, the 36.5mm Oris Aquis Date is definitely a watch to consider. This model has been discontinued, but they continue to offer the Aquis in a variety of sizes and colors.

Doxa Sub 200 Whitepearl Automatic (ref. 799.10.011.23)

Doxa’s history has been deeply rooted in dive watches since the 1960s. The SUB300T was developed in association with Jacques Cousteau and was the source of the signature dual-scale bezel. The white-dialed SUB 200 is a less serious but still capable offering amongst Doxa’s timepieces.

It features a conventional 60-minute uni-directional bezel with 200 meters of water resistance and is available on a metal bracelet and color-matched rubber strap. The white dial features black indices surrounds, helping make the watch legible in a variety of environments. 

The SUB 200 also keeps Doxa’s signature case design, which wears much smaller than the stated 42mm case diameter would suggest. Inside is an unspecified Swiss movement, with a 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 bph, and 26 jewels, suggesting it is likely a Sellita-based movement. 

The Doxa SUB 200 is ready for summer adventures and will look great on a variety of wrists, given the unique but largely compatible case dimensions. 

The Doxa SUB 200 retails for $990.

Breitling Superocean Heritage (ref. AB20303A1A1A1) 

The Breitling Superocean Heritage has been a successful line for the brand. This 100-piece limited edition was released for the Greek market in 2022. Inside is the Breitling caliber B20, which is supplied by Tudor, based on their MT5612. The movement has a 70-hour power reserve and is chronometer-certified.

The vintage-inspired design, blue accents on the dial, and blue bezel should match a variety of attire and have a bold presence with its white dial and bold 44mm size. While the design is vintage-inspired, the modern movement and ceramic bezel are built to modern quality standards.

Given the limited edition nature of this reference, prices are currently dictated by the secondary market.

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Automatic (ref. ZO9291) 

Zodiac Watches is a brand that is currently operated by the Fossil Group, which recently has seemed to work well for them. They have focused on releases inspired by vintage designs from the 1950s and 60s and modernizing them in terms of materials and proportions. 

The Super Sea Wolf Compression Automatic seen here is 40mm wide, is rated to 200 meters of water resistance, and features a bright white dial with bright blue accents. To aid in legibility, the hours and seconds hands, along with the minute indices borders, are different shades of blue from the rest of the watch. 

The dial is covered with a sapphire crystal, but the bezel insert is covered by a mineral bezel, meaning it will scratch fairly easily, but will not shatter as easily compared to sapphire or ceramic. Inside is Zodiac’s own STP 1-11 movement. Created as a replacement for the ETA 2824, so operational and size specifications are largely interchangeable. 

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Automatic retails for $1595.

Baltic Aquascaphe Classic White 

The Baltic Aquascaphe was the brand’s first dive watch. This French brand has taken the enthusiast community by storm by offering vintage-inspired designs while still making them very unique to the brand. Additionally, quality has been relatively high while keeping the prices very reasonable.

Having owned a Baltic timepiece, it is very close to buying a vintage watch, brand new today. The Aquascaphe features a 38mm stainless steel case (measuring 39mm at the sapphire bezel) with a sapphire crystal and is rated to 200 meters of water resistance. The movement inside is a Miyota 9039, which has been proven to be a reliable caliber.

With a modern movement and usable water resistance, the Baltic Aquascaphe will be more than capable of handling aquatic outings. Baltic also offers a variety of bracelet and strap options, including a white rubber strap and a flat-link style bracelet, allowing you to make the watch as bold or subdued as desired. Both also include quick-release spring bars, so swapping straps will be facile. 

The Baltic Aquascaphe Classic in white retails for approx. $650.

Seiko Turtle SPB313J1 

This Seiko Modern Re-interpretation is considered a “Turtle” because of the similar case shape and 4 o’clock crown as seen on the original Seiko Turtles. In this instance, Seiko has created what may be the most wearable Turtle to date. The SPB313J1 measures 41mm wide, 46.9 mm lug to lug, and a svelte 12.3mm thick, making it the thinnest Seiko automatic diver to date. 

The hardened 200-meter-rated stainless steel case houses Seiko’s 6R35 movement, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve. The white dial with black accents is covered by a sapphire crystal, with an anti-reflective coating on the inside, allowing for easy reading of the time. The four o’clock date is well done, as it is color matched to the dial, and Seiko’s unique number font appears well-matched to the rest of their designs. 

The SPB313J1 retails for $1100.

Marathon GSAR Arctic Edition (ref. WW194006SS-0530) 

Marathon is a Canadian brand that has built its reputation by supplying watches for military outfits. If legibility and durability are your top concerns while still being mechanical, this Marathon may be the best bet.

The GSAR series (Government Search and Rescue) consists of no-nonsense dive watches capable of handling the harshest environments. The stainless steel case is rated to 300 meters, and the sapphire crystal covers a dial lumed with tritium gas tubes, ensuring they will glow brightly in any situation. 

The uni-directional bezel is large and has deep grooves, making turning the bezel with gloves easy. Inside, the Sellita SW-200 beats away inside, with Incablock shock absorbers. 

Pictured here in 41mm, there are also 36mm and 46mm versions, so finding one that fits should be easy. The Marathon GSAR Arctic Edition 41mm starts at $1500 on a rubber strap. 

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600 White Dial 

The Trident collection has been a mainstay for Christopher Ward. Since 2005, they have managed to evolve their timepieces to compete in terms of case and dial, finishing with some of the much bigger brands at a fraction of the price. A combination of business decisions and a direct-to-consumer model allow them to keep their prices relatively low and quality high.

This version of the Trident, the C60 Trident Pro 600, is one of their more robust models, featuring 600 meters of water resistance. The 42mm steel case features its “light-catcher design,” boasting a myriad of brushed and polished finishes.

The white dial is lumed with X1 GL C1 rated SuperLuminova, which is claimed to be some of the brightest available. The ceramic bezel is lumed as well. Inside, the movement powering the watch is a Sellita SW200-1. The 22mm wide bracelet features quick-release spring bars and also has a ratcheting micro-adjustment clasp, a premium feature more expensive brands often lack. 

The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600 retails for $1145.

Sinn 104 White Dial (ref. 104.012) 

Sinn’s reputation consists of building utility-driven tool watches, and the 104 is no different. Billed as a pilot’s watch instead of a diver, the 104 is still aquatic capable with 200 meters of water resistance. The watch is also low-pressure resistant, protecting the crystal from dislodging in low-pressure situations (such as an airplane cabin). 

The gloss white dial has black outlined indices and hands, both of which are lumed. The bezel is a captive design, meaning the bezel is attached to the watch via screws while still maintaining the ability to turn it easily. Conventional bezels snap into place, allowing the potential for them to be knocked off. With a captive bezel design, the bezel is much more secure. 

Sinn uses a Sellita SW220-1 in the 104, but the brand states inventory may vary due to the availability of movements. Previous iterations have used ETA movements, which is likely the cause of this statement. While technically focused, the back side of the 41mm case has a display case back, allowing for a view of the movement. 

Prices for the Sinn 104 start at $1640 on a leather strap. 

VICTORINOX I.N.O.X Professional Diver Titanium (ref. 241811) 

While Victorinox is more famous for its knives, they have also developed some capable watches over the years. The I.N.O.X. series was developed to be one of the most durable Swiss-made watches ever made. Boasting 130 endurance durability tests, these watches are made to withstand the worst that a watch owner could throw at them.

Seen here in titanium, the 45mm wide case is rated to 200 meters of water resistance, certified anti-magnetic, and is an ISO 6425 certified dive watch. Inside is a Ronda quartz caliber 715, which aids in durability and has a 10-year battery life. Adding some fun to the dial, the outer minute track fades between red, orange, and yellow.

If the large dial and lumed indices and hands were not enough to make the watch easy to read, Victorinox includes a protective bumper and removable magnifying glass for when underwater adventures could get very rough. When durability and looking good are your concerns, the Victorinox I.N.O.X. Professional Diver will have you covered.

The Victorinox I.N.O.X Professional Diver Titanium retails for $695.

Conclusion

Dive watches are rooted in functionality, as their purpose is a matter of life and death. As technology has progressed and better tools have been developed, analog dive watches have lost their utility. Still, the purpose-driven design attracts many watch enthusiasts, as having an overbuilt watch brings both peace of mind and romanticism to ownership. 

Additionally, since function is less of a concern, designs are allowed the space to experiment with different colors. These watches are still fully capable of handling serious dive duty, but the bold white dials are more statement oriented than tool-focused. Regardless, they will all be faithful companions underwater and on dry land. 

Sports watches are one of the most popular categories of watches, with prominent models such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus, and many Rolex sport models taking center stage. Their versatility in style and durability are desirable traits for many watch buyers, even beyond enthusiast groups.

These watches are designed for durability, aimed to withstand the trials and tribulations of an active lifestyle and to look good while doing it.  With attire standards becoming increasingly casual, the versatility of sports watches often makes for a one-watch collection. Usually more boldly designed than traditional dress watches, they also frequently feature dark dials, emphasizing their sporting character and increasing their versatility.

While not as popular, white-dialed sports watches can increase a watch’s visual impact, often making them appear larger. Some designs can offer even more visual contrast, improving legibility. This article will explain the history of sports watches and offer 15 white-dialed sports watches for your consideration. 

What Is a Sports Watch?

This may seem obvious to those involved in watches for some time, but it’s a worthy distinction, especially compared to hardcore tool watches. Sports watches are usually aimed to have an element of durability over a dress watch. That usually means being made of non-precious metals (steel, titanium, even ceramic), increased water resistance (above 50 meters usually), and the inclusion of a bracelet or non-leather strap (textile or rubber). 

There are always exceptions, as there are plenty of sports watches made of precious metals, watches with more sporting designs with less water resistance, and sporty watches on leather straps. Sports watches exist in the space between dress watches and tool watches.

An example of a sports watch that overlaps with the dress category would be the Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso. Initially designed in the 1930s so that the reversing case would protect the glass front of the watch during polo matches, this is undoubtedly designed with sporting intentions and is one of the first sports watches ever made.

Nowadays, the art deco design and proportions, even with the larger models, lean more towards the modern idea of a dress watch than a sports watch. An example of a tool watch that overlaps with the sports watch category would be the famed Rolex Submariner.

Originally designed to be a tool for divers to time their dives (the rotating bezel would be used to time oxygen available during the dive), ever since Sean Connery wore a Submariner with a dinner jacket in Dr.No, the sartorial versatility of the Rolex Submariner has been cemented in popular culture.

Modern Submariners have more reflective surfaces and luxury appointments with white gold hands and indices, making the watch look and feel more high-end. This increases the flexibility between its originally utilitarian purposes and modern casual chic-ness.

Traditionalists would still shy away from wearing a Submariner or any dive watch with a suit, but modern tastes have allowed it for decades. Ultimately, if you look at a watch and question whether it is a dress watch or a tool watch, it will likely fall in the sports watch category. 

A (very) Brief History of Sports Watches

As mentioned with the Reverso, sports watches are very close to tool watches considering they are often designed with a purpose. Another distinction is that sports watches combine utility and style (the Reverso is a great example). 

Early Omega Seamasters are also quite dressy by modern standards but would have been considered sports watches back in their day, as they had more substantial steel cases and increased water resistance compared to the more traditional De Ville and Constellation collections in Omega’s catalog. 

It was not until Omega wanted to compete with the increasingly popular dive watch market of the mid to late 1950s that we saw the Seamaster resemble anything close to the Seamaster dive watches we are familiar with today.

The IWC Ingenieur reference 666 and Rolex Milgaus reference 1016 were tool watches in their day, offering increased durability in regards to magnetism, but with their clean but bold case designs leaning more into the sporting direction. 

In the 1970s, watch companies began to release watches closer to the modern idea of a sports watch, particularly integrated bracelet sports watches. With the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak being released in 1972 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976, the idea of a luxury sports watch took hold. 

The 1970s saw almost every major watch brand release an interpretation of the integrated bracelet steel sports watch. These watches varied in terms of thickness, water resistance, and durability of movements inside, emphasizing that sports watches are often more about style than all-out durability.

Compared to watches prior, these watches definitely made a bold statement, as they were larger than dress watches of the day, and the integrated designs made them appear even bulkier. These bold designs won favor with fashion icons and athletes. Fast-forwarding to the mid-2000s, brands were frequently partnering with athletes.

Audemars-Piguet and Hublot have released numerous limited editions commemorating sports stars they have partnered with. Even without celebrity partnerships, sports watches became the watch style of choice for many celebrities. This influenced consumers, as many wanted to mimic the style of their favorite stars. 

Why a White-Dialed Sports Watch?

As mentioned in the introduction, white-dialed sports watches are much bolder than dark-dialed ones. Some white-dialed sports watches will have silver hands and indices, which will make them appear more formal but will decrease legibility.

Colored watch dials have become increasingly popular in recent years; however, they are not for everyone. If you want to make more of a prominent statement with your watch than a black-dialed sports watch but are unwilling to jump to a brightly colored one, a white-dial sports watch should be on your radar.

15 White-Dialed Sports Watches

This list is not in any particular order; it highlights well-made models from various brands that offer white-dialed sports watches in their catalog (both past and present). Hopefully, this list will aid in narrowing down your own choice for a favorite white-dialed sports watch. 

1. Rolex Explorer II (ref. 226570-0001)

The Rolex Explorer II was originally designed as a tool for cave dwellers. A prominent feature of the Explorer II is the fixed external bezel indicating the 24-hour time. This was of concern for people working in caves, as they would be without any reference to day or night for extended periods.

When the GMT-Master finally received an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, so did the Explorer II. This allowed the Explorer II to track two timezones and maintain its original functionality. 

In its current white dial configuration (reference 226570-0001), the Explorer II features black indices surrounds and outlined hands to increase legibility. The Explorer II also recently received a mild case re-design, creating more integration between the case and bracelet and allowing for a case design more reminiscent of vintage Rolex cases but at a modern 42mm. 

With 100 meters of water resistance, screw down crown, a 70-hour power reserve, and a steel bracelet with Rolex’s own “Easy-Link” that allows for 5mm of tool-less adjustment, there are more than enough modern features to make the 226570 an easy watch to live with (a desirable trait for a sports watch). 

With a retail price of $9,650, the Explorer II sits somewhere in the middle of the Rolex sports model range. The good news is that availability is increasing, but still difficult as of March 2023. If you are considering searching for a used one, you should still expect to pay a premium over the retail price. 

2. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.04.001)

When Omega redesigned the Seamaster Diver 300m in 2018, many enthusiasts were quite excited to see the return of the wave motif on the dial. This release marked the arrival of the Omega Caliber 8800 in the Seamaster Diver 300m, which features an increased anti-magnetism rating to above 15,000 gauss.

The METAS Master Chronometer certification also certifies the watch to -0/+6 seconds a day, ensuring a high level of accuracy. The slight increase over previous iterations from 41mm to 42mm may seem negligible. With thicker lugs, case height, and an updated bracelet, the watch is bolder on the wrist.

The white-dialed Seamaster Diver 300m features black outlined indices and hands, ensuring good legibility. While this is a dive watch, meaning it definitely has tool watch capabilities, the detailed finishing of the case and bracelet put this watch in the camp of what is often called a “dress-diver.”

It is still highly capable, but the case’s greater attention to detail and light-catching quality increase the jewelry factor. This may be a drawback to some looking for a more tool-oriented watch, but it also increases its flexibility with varying attire. With a retail price of $5600 on the bracelet, Omega is offering a great deal of technology, finishing, and innovation for the money.

3. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 (ref. 114300-0004)

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is the closest to the original Rolex Oyster design in the current catalog. Recent years have seen many updates, including various sizes and dial colors. For a short period from 2018 to 2020, Rolex offered the Oyster Perpetual in 39mm, which was favored by many but has since been replaced by a 41mm version of the watch.

Still, many watch enthusiasts consider the 39mm to be a goldilocks size, especially since Rolex Oyster cases wear slightly larger than their measured dimensions. The white dial reference does have silver-colored hands and indices, making it less legible but more versatile in its ability to be worn with more formal attire.

If this is a concern, this version of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual would be a great choice, as the size and design are casual enough to handle the beach and can also be dressed up with a shirt and tie. Being an entry-level model from Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual does not feature a raised crown on the clasp, no flip-lock, and no Easy-Link adjustment on the clasp.

That does not, however, make the watch any less robust. Another downside of the white-dialed 39mm Oyster Perpetual is that it was discontinued in 2020. If you want to buy one, you are at the mercy of the used market regarding pricing. 

4. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “GoodPlanet” (ref. 231.90.39.21.04.001)

This version of the Omega Aqua Terra features a titanium case and bracelet in a 38.5mm size. Coming from the previous generation of the Aqua Terra line, this case is slightly asymmetrical, similar to the Speedmaster, but does feature the Master Co-Axial anti-magnetic movement. 

The dial is smooth, unlike the teak texturing that has been a hallmark of the collection for the last two generations of Aqua Terra. With the addition of the blue-colored indices and hands, this model will present on the more dressy side of sports watches, much closer to the original Seamasters of the 1940s and 50s. 

While the style is pretty conservative, the watch still offers 150 meters of water resistance, making it a strong candidate for an only-watch collection. Should the bracelet be too sporty, a change of strap will allow this watch to pair with more formal attire easily.

The titanium case and bracelet will be a welcome upgrade for some, as it is hypoallergenic and significantly lighter than steel. If you are a fan of watches with more significant weight to them, then a standard stainless steel Aqua Terra may be a better option.

Another point worth considering is that the titanium models come at a slight premium over the stainless steel ones, and this model has been discontinued. They are available on the used market, and you may still be able to find a new-old stock example at a dealer. 

5. Grand Seiko “Snowflake” SBGA211

The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” has become a well-known model for the brand. Grand Seiko has been highly regarded for its case, dial, and movement finishing that competes with much more expensive timepieces. Grand Seiko has been more adventurous with dials recently, but the Snowflake was the first to garner mainstream attention. 

Similar to the Aqua Terra “Good Planet,” this watch also features a titanium case and bracelet. The SBGA211 utilizes Grand Seiko’s caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement, which uses a mechanical gear train and a quartz regulating system. 

By doing so, Grand Seiko is able to offer accuracy that is rated to +/- 15 seconds a month. Another notable feature of the Spring Drive movements is the effortless glide of the seconds hand, moving across the dial much smoother than high-beat mechanical movements. 

Featuring silver hands and indices, and no luminescent on the dial, the SBGA211 is one of the dressier options on this list. While it won’t help in pitch-black situations, the hands and indices are polished so that they catch light in low-light conditions, so you should still be able to read the time if you find yourself in a dimly lit establishment late in the evening.

There is still a screw-down crown, and 100m of water resistance should the evening also involve a fair amount of water. Retailing at $6,200, Grand Seiko offers buyers quite a unique set of specifications, design, and fit and finish.

6. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-011

The first of the traditional “Holy Trinity” on this list (consisting of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin), the Nautilus is Patek’s offering in the steel sports watch realm. Designed by Gerald Genta, the Nautilus is softer and rounder in appearance compared to the Royal Oak. 

The black outlined indices and hands on the white dial make this reference stand out compared to the more conservative blue and dark grey dialed Nautilus watches that are more common. While maintaining a pretty thin profile of 8.3mm and still using a highly finished caliber 324 S C that is up to Patek Philippe’s standard of fit and finish, the Nautilus is rated to 120 meters of water resistance. 

This makes the Nautilus a more than capable sports watch and could be someone’s only watch. This would also be a great companion for a client’s sporting ventures while their more traditional watches stay safe at home, likely the original intention of Patek Philippe.

If there is ever an opportunity to see one in person, it will probably be quickly evident why the Nautilus is so popular. This model was offered from 2012-2020, and in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the prices quickly rose past the original retail price soon after discontinuation.

7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (ref. 15400ST.OO.1220ST.02)

Possibly the most famous of the integrated bracelet sports watches (alongside the Nautilus) is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. This iteration is a more contemporary version in terms of movement and case size. The movement inside is more durable and up-to-date than the ultra-thin JLC-based movement used in the famous Jumbo iteration of the Royal Oak.

Featuring a full balance bridge to aid in balance spring stability, and a modern 60-hour power reserve, this movement is closer to the standards expected for a contemporary sports watch. While the Royal Oak has been offered in various sizes over the years, this 41mm version is one of the largest time-only Royal Oaks ever made and will have even more presence on the wrist, given the white dial.

The look on the wrist will be closer to the Royal Oak Offshore than the Jumbo. Fortunately, this watch is not as thick as the Offshore, measuring 9.8mm thick. The silver indices and hands will also help this watch dress up easily.

8. Vacheron Constantin Overseas (ref. 4500V/110A-B126)

Rounding out the traditional “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Originally designed by Vincent Kaufmann and Dino Modolo, the design took inspiration from Vacheron’s 222 model from the 1970s, which Jörg Hysek designed. While offering a very similar look and feel to the Nautilus and Royal Oak, the Overseas integrates the brand’s Maltese Cross logo in the design of the bezel and bracelet. 

While a tad thicker than the Royal Oak and Nautilus at 11mm thick, it is still slim enough to be worn with most dress shirts. A few benefits of the Overseas compared to the Royal Oak and Nautilus is that the Overseas is rated to 150 meters of water resistance and includes a leather and rubber strap along with the steel bracelet. The added durability and flexibility of these features allow the Overseas to fit into various situations, both in terms of style and functionality. 

With a retail price of $22,500 and still being offered in the brand’s current catalog, the Vacheron Overseas will be a good choice for many. It is still challenging to get from boutiques and authorized retailers, but more available than Nautilus’ and Royal Oak’s that are in their respective brands’ current catalogs. 

9. Omega Speedmaster Racing (ref. 329.30.44.51.04.001)

The Speedmaster Racing collection has been a line in Omega’s catalog aimed at the more motorsport-oriented clientele. With the staggered seconds indications around the outer edge of the dial, this design allows for a more facile reading of partials of a second (in this instance, a 1/4 of a second). 

Being a modern automatic Speedmaster, this reference uses a bi-compax layout (two subdials only). It still measures events up to 12 hours, with the hours and minutes totaled at the 3 o’clock subdial and the running seconds shown at 9 o’clock.

Another cool feature of the Omega Calibre 9900 is the jumping hour hand, which allows you to set the hours independently of the rest of the watch. This feature is convenient while traveling, as it enables the user to change the hours without completely stopping the timepiece.

Measuring 14.9mm thick and 44.25mm wide, this Speedmaster is quite large, but shortened lugs and a stepped case design allow it to wear well for its size. While less than other watches here, the rated 50 meters of water resistance is quite good for a chronograph and should be more than enough considering the intention is for motor racing and not water sports.

This watch also features Omega’s Master Chronometer technology, creating a modern and durable anti-magnetic movement. The Omega Speedmaster Racing retails for $9,100 on a steel bracelet. 

10. Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

The Black Bay line has been a home run for Tudor. The Black Bay Chrono is no exception, as many enthusiasts see it as a more obtainable alternative to the Rolex Daytona. Tudor has managed to create their own identity, as their designs continue to differentiate itself from other brands.

With bold indices and “snowflake” hands, there is no doubt about the Black Bay’s sporting intentions. The Black Bay Chrono is similar to the Speedmaster Racing with its black-and-white theme and bi-compax layout. Here, the Tudor can only measure events up to 45 minutes with the counter at 3 o’clock and the running seconds at 9 o’clock. 

The Calibre MT5813 shares architecture with Breitling, as the two brands have partnered together to provide movements to one another. The MT5813 has a 70-hour power reserve, which adds convenience should you have a few watches you like to rotate through. 

With screw-down pushers, the Black Bay Pro can be rated to 200 meters of water resistance (with the crown and pushers screwed in). While shown here with a bracelet, which is the most popular choice, Tudor also offers a variety of straps should the bracelet not be to your liking. 

The 41mm dimension of the case seems quite reasonable on paper, but the Black Bay line typically has relatively long lugs, and large case sides, making the watch wear pretty large on the wrist. Combined with the fairly reasonable retail price of $5,450, the case dimensions have not stopped many buyers from being very happy with the Black Bay line. 

11. TAG Heuer Night Diver (ref. WBP201D.FT6197)

One of the more unique watches on this list is the TAG Heuer Night Diver. With a large 43mm black DLC-coated steel case, black ceramic bezel, and textured white dial, this watch will make a statement on the wrist. 

The dial has white lumed indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock and black indices for the remainder, with a date at 6 o’clock as well. The black indices on a white dial are very bold and striking. The main attraction of this watch is that the entire dial is lumed, meaning the white dial glows green in the dark.

If nighttime legibility is of utmost concern for you, this should be towards the top of your list for white dial sports watches. While the watch comes on a rubber strap instead of a bracelet, the clasp does include a micro-adjust mechanism, making quick adjustments easy.

The movement inside is not an in-house, high-tech movement like many other watches featured on this list. The ETA or Sellita-based Calibre 5 will allow for easy service down the road. Given the black case and luminescent dial, the Night Diver likely won’t be as flexible sartorially compared to other watches on this list and will likely be best suited for casual and sporting environments.

Retailing at $3,750, the TAG Heuer Night Diver seems a bit expensive compared to similar dive watches, but few have such a bold, high-contrast look.

12. Breitling Superocean Heritage (ref. AB20303A1A1A1)

This specific Breitling Superocean Heritage was released as a limited edition for the Greek market in 2022 and was limited to 100 units. The good news is that for Breitling enthusiasts, this is definitely a watch to search for. The bad news is that it will be more challenging to find compared to standard models, and the secondary market will dictate prices. 

On the other side of the Tudor and Breitling partnership, here Breitling utilizes the Breitling caliber B20, which is based on the Tudor MT5612. The movement has a 70-hour power reserve and is chronometer certified.

The vintage-inspired design, blue accents on the dial, and blue bezel should allow this watch to pair well with various situations, from full-on water sports to cocktail attire dinners. The timepiece is large at 44mm, and the Breitling Superocean Heritage line does wear its size.

Even though the design is vintage-inspired, the modern movement and ceramic bezel will ensure that the watch will stand up to the trials and tribulations of an adventurous Mediterranean vacation. 

13. Panerai Luminor Marina (ref. PAM01314)

The Panerai Luminor is one of the brand’s icons (alongside the Radiomir). Designed for the Italian Navy, these watches were designed to be extremely durable and legible. One of the design hallmarks of Panerai is its use of sandwich dials.

This means that the dial is multi-layered, with the lower layer containing luminescent paint, and the upper dial has the numerals and indices cut out, allowing them to glow in low-light environments. More traditional Panerai watches have black dials with green luminescent or, more recently, tan luminescent to mimic vintage lume.

Here, the lume is grey with a white dial. While the monochromatic look may sound dull, it makes for a very striking watch, especially with the iconic Luminor case that features the prominent crown locking mechanism. While 44mm is a large watch, Panerai watches have always been large, which is part of the look.

The movement inside is Panerai’s P.9010 calibre, which uses two mainspring barrels to achieve a 72-hour power reserve. The watch is rated to 300 meters of water resistance, ensuring it can handle the aquatic duties the watch was originally designed for.

Additionally, Panerai watches have been known to look great on various straps, and there is a thriving community of Paneristi happy to share their favorite combinations online. 

The Panerai PAM01314 retails for $8,400.

14. Czapek Passage De Drake Ice White on Rubber Strap

Should owning something rarely seen elsewhere be towards the top of your priority list, the Czapek Passage De Drake Ice White should be considered. 

The Passage De Drake features contrasting brushed and polished finishing on the bracelet and case, with a mirror-polished bezel. The dial has a stamped “flinqué” dial, with an exclusive and registered “Stairway to Eternity” pattern. 

Inside is the Calibre SHX5 movement, an in-house micro-rotor movement with 60 hours of power reserve from a single mainspring barrel. The micro-rotor design has the rotor in line with the movement instead of sitting on top, which allows for a thinner case design. 

The Passage De Drake measures 40.5mm in diameter, 10.6mm thick, and is rated to 120 meters of water resistance. Also impressive is that Czapek managed to keep the watch thin with this water resistance and have a display case back to see this unique movement. 

The bracelet features a micro-adjustment system in the clasp and an “Easy Release” system that allows for easy changes between the bracelet and an additional calf leather or rubber strap.

If you like the general look of integrated bracelet watches but want something different than the usual suspects, the Czapek Passage De Drake is worth considering and worthy of high praise. 

The retail price of the Czapek Passage De Drake is $22,000. 

15. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015-1127-52A)

Blancpain often does not get enough credit, as they were the first to market with the modern dive watch in 1953, beating Rolex. Their Fifty-Fathoms line is their flagship dive watch, with the current iterations based on a model revamp released in 2007. 

This Fifty-Fathoms uses the in-house caliber 1315, a high-jeweled movement with 35 jewels, and a 120-hour power reserve. While the finishing may look spartan in photos, in real life, the movement decoration is quite detailed and done to a high level.

Daytime legibility will be somewhat compromised with the white dial, silver hands, and silver with white luminescent indices. However, with the white bezel covered with a sapphire insert, and white strap, this almost entirely white watch is more of a fashion statement than a functional tool watch.

While highly capable with 300 meters of water resistance and more than enough lume on the dial and bezel, there will be no problem timing dives or the parking meter while on a night out. While no longer in the Blancpain catalog, some searching and patience should allow for a reasonable price on the used market. 

Conclusion

The popularity of sports watches is easy to understand. For many, a good sports watch could be the only one they own, as it is often designed with functionality and style in mind. Even collectors with many timepieces may purchase several sports watches, as they can vary significantly in design. 

Because of the variety of designs, there will certainly be a sports watch on the market that resonates with almost every buyer, whether their tastes align more on the slim and elegant side of sports watches or the more robust and utilitarian end. Should a white-dialed sports watch be appealing, hopefully, this list will aid in your search.