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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Guide: Know THIS Before Buying

Posted on August 23, 2023August 24, 2023 by Andrew O'Connor

Rolex is the most well-known luxury watch brand in the world. Selling well over a million units a year, ranked number one in Swiss watch exports by overall revenue, and ranked as the number one most reputable company by RepTrak 2016 through 2019, and again in 2022, they have built a seemingly bulletproof reputation.

While it is a reputation the rest of the watch industry is surely envious of, what is seemingly more impressive is that they have managed to build this reputation in its relatively short history. A large part of their storied history and success depends on one model, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust.

About the Rolex Datejust

With the many advancements of modern watchmaking, it is easy to take the Datejust for granted. In its most famous form, the Datejust is a 36mm wide steel case watch with either a smooth steel or fluted gold bezel and a steel bracelet or two-tone steel and gold bracelet. The only functions are the time, running seconds, and the date.

Aside from the prestigious brand, little sets it apart from more common and attainable watches. However, if it were not for Rolex producing the Datejust, the modern concept of a timepiece that was functional, durable, and fashionable (the “go anywhere, do anything” watch) would likely not exist.

Now, every brand has an equivalent timepiece. While other brands have made watches similar in function to the Datejust, Rolex managed to produce both quality, volume, and effective advertising to allow it to be at the forefront of the public’s mind when it comes to a luxury watch suitable for daily wear.

History of the Rolex Datejust

Building on their prior innovation of producing one of the earliest self-winding water-resistant watches, titled the Oyster Perpetual, Rolex introduced the Datejust in 1945. The Datejust was the first automatic watch to have a date that changed autonomously at midnight. To become the icon we know today, Rolex added the magnifying cyclops to the model in 1953.

In 1957, a ladies’ model was introduced. Since then, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust has been a mainstay in the Rolex catalog. While the sport-oriented models (referred to currently as the Professional Line by Rolex) get the bulk of attention from enthusiasts, the classic models like the Datejust are the most popular overall in terms of sales.

What Makes a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust

Often imitated and with numerous variations, it is impressive how Rolex has managed to make the Datejust an easily identifiable icon distinguishable from imitators, regardless of variations and updates over the years.

The Oyster Case

While easy to take for granted, the Oyster case for the Classic models has a curved and polished case side. The case design wears more like a cushion case than a traditional round case, as the lugs are large and extend from the case side down to the bracelet, giving the watch an integrated bracelet look with the metal bracelet options while using traditional lugs and spring bars.

It is worth noting that the spring bar holes are drilled quite close to the case, making some aftermarket straps difficult to fit. The most popular material option has been stainless steel, but the Datejust was originally released in gold. Throughout the years, Rolex has offered the watch in steel, two-tone steel, and gold, and a variety of gold options. Ladies Datejust watches have also been offered in platinum.

Bracelet Options

Arguably the most iconic bracelet option for the Rolex Datejust is the Jubilee bracelet. Released as part of Rolex’s jubilee celebration (along with the Datejust), the five-link design with two larger outer links and 3 small inner links, making the bracelet robust yet dressy.

The center links have always been polished throughout the bracelet’s history, with the outer links being brushed. Originally offered only in solid gold, the Jubilee bracelet has been offered in steel, two-tone, and gold.

The other metal bracelet option for the Datejust and equally iconic for Rolex is the Oyster bracelet. A three-link design with three larger sections, this is the bracelet design that is most commonly associated with the Professional models. Preferred by some collectors for its more substantial presence, the Oyster bracelet is more casual/sporting in its appearance.

On more contemporary precious metal references, there have been leather strap options, and references with the President style bracelet, mainly the smaller 31mm and 27mm models. The leather strap options have a metal end-link that the strap attaches to, further emphasizing the modern integrated look.

The most outlandish option is a diamond set rubber strap on the 116189BBR. If you love zebra print, this model is worth a look.

Bezel Options

When it comes to the Classic line of Rolex watches, part of the iconic look is the fluted bezel.

The fluted bezel is made out of gold, and the polished bezel has alternating raised and lowered sections that reflect well in a variety of light, making the watches very eye-catching. Most commonly associated with the two-tone steel and yellow gold models are steel watches with white gold fluted bezels, and more contemporary references have offered steel and rose gold.

The bracelet will always match the bezel, with the steel and white gold references having steel bracelets. Entirely precious metal references have been offered with both fluted and smooth bezels.

The smooth bezel is another popular option, usually seen on all steel references, but has been offered in the two-tone and precious metal references as well. If the fluted bezel is the most jewelry oriented and formal, the smooth bezel is more subdued.

On older references, the bezel is relatively flat, with it sloping upwards toward the crystal from the case. Modern 6-digit references have bezels that are more domed than flat, which give a more substantial and contemporary look to the timepiece.

Additionally, there are engine-turned bezels. Made out of steel, these watches have either a fine groove texture or a wider, less polished texture similar to the fluted bezel. These models offer a way to add interest to the watch without the added cost.

Particularly of note of the metal bezel options, there are the Turn-O-Graph models. Made with precious metal bezels, these models have a bi-directional rotating bezel that can be used to time events. Initially intended for pilots, these watches offer a slightly more sporty take on the Datejust that still keeps the sartorial flexibility associated with the model.

Finally, on the jewelry-oriented pieces, there is the option of a diamond set bezel, which is always set in the corresponding precious metal on the watch.

Dial Variety

Where prospective Datejust owners are really spoiled for choice is in regards to dial options. Over the years, there have been a wide variety of dial options with varying textures, including honeycomb in some vintage models, vertical striping, sunbursts, matte, glossy, and sun-ray, to name a handful.

More contemporary jewelry-oriented models have what Rolex calls the “Jubilee Dial,” which has a Rolex motif printed on the dial and some diamond settings on the dial. Speaking of gemstones, there are many iterations ranging from diamond hour markers to full pavé dials covered in diamonds. There are also a number of variations of mother-of-pearl dials.

Besides diamond-set indices, there are numerous iterations for indices, including stick indices, Roman numerals, Arabic numerals, and sometimes combinations of different styles. The only way collectors may feel some limitation is in regard to dial colors.

Recent collections have included green dials with palm leaf motifs, and there have been some that have had more subtle pink and salmon hues. Most of the history of the Datejust has consisted of conventional dial colors; black, silver, white, and blue.

These more conservative dial tones speak to the intended purpose of the watch, the ability to go anywhere and do anything and look the part while doing it. A Datejust worn in confidence will look great with a bathing suit and a boardroom suit.

Should a bold dial be desired, the textured dials and a few bolder colors are available. Full precious metal Datejust watches have some more outlandish dial offerings. Additionally, popular aftermarket customization is to have boldly colored dials. While not always desired by hardcore collectors, a custom dial will make your Datejust stand out.

Rolex Datejust Reference Numbers

With Datejust’s long history, there have been numerous reference numbers associated with the model. For the sake of this article, we will give attention to the 36mm models.

Broadly speaking, there are 4-digit, 5-digit, and 6-digit references, each referring to a general period of production. 4-digit references were produced before the late-1970s. 5-digit references were produced from the late 1970s to 1999, and finally 6-digit references began in the year 2000.

The first Datejust 36 reference numbers start with 6XXX, followed by 16XX. The five digit reference number Datejust watches start with 162XX. The six digit references start with 1162XX, and the most modern Datejusts start with 1262XX. An early Datejust example would be the 6304, and then the generations following are the 1601 and 1603.

After the four-digit references, the last two digits were codified to describe other aspects of the watch. The second to last number dealt with the bezel style, with 0 meaning smooth, 1 meaning engine-turned, 3 meaning fluted, and 6 referring to the Turn-O-Graph models.

The last digit refers to the material of the watch, with 0 corresponding to steel, 1 referring to two-tone steel and Everose gold, 3 referring to steel and yellow gold, 4 referring to steel and white gold, 5 being solid 18k Everose gold, 6 being platinum, 8 referring to 18k yellow gold, and 9 referring to 18k white gold.

To give an example, a six-digit two-tone Everrose and steel Turn-O-Graph would have the reference number 116261.

Current Rolex Datejust Pricing

With limited availability for Rolex watches across the board causing historically high prices, even accounting for some recent adjustments as of Summer of 2023, Datejusts are not spared from this. Still widely popular compared to the Professional models, the Datejust does not get the same amount of media attention, and their large overall production numbers mean that they are more readily available on the second-hand market.

Again, focusing on the 36mm models, a vintage steel 1603 can be found as low as around 3000$, but one in better condition, and maybe some original paperwork would be closer to 4000$. Two-tone four-digit references start at around 3600$, with better examples starting again at around 4000$. Solid gold examples on a strap can be found for about 6400$, but jump to over 10,000$ for examples with a solid gold bracelet.

Early five-digit references start around 4000$, again rising depending on condition and materials. Models with a sapphire crystal (starting in the late 1980s/early 1990s) start at around 5000$. As of July 2023, a five-digit Datejust tops out at approximately 55,000$ for a full gold case and bracelet example with diamonds on the dial from the factory.

The six-digit references top out at around 65,000$ for the 116189BBR already mentioned. A full gold 116208 can be had for about 28,000$. Two-tone 116XXX references, including white gold bezeled models, seem to stay between 10,000 and 16,000$ depending on the condition and box and papers. Full steel models start at around 7500$.

The most modern 126XXX models start at around $7500 on the secondary market, and that includes box and papers. The most expensive two-tone models with diamond bezels and dials are currently trading for around 36,000$. As part of the current collection posted on the Rolex website, there are no full precious metal models being offered.

As with almost any Rolex currently, more desirable models and configurations will carry a premium compared to their original retail price and/or less desirable iterations. Regarding vintage models, condition and documentation play a big role. If you are looking to achieve the lowest price possible, a common dial configuration in worn but good condition will be a good and safe option.

With well-worn pieces, it is best to do a good amount of research and pay accordingly if they interest you. The older a watch gets, the less important having the original box and papers is. It would be very cool if a 6305 could be found with all of the original boxes and paperwork, but expect to pay a corresponding premium for that watch.

Who Is the Datejust for?

The versatility of the Datejust is its greatest selling point. The combination of good looks and durability makes it suitable for almost every occasion a normal person will encounter. While Rolex watches are seen as status symbols of success and achievement, the Datejust is oddly as close to the watch for everyman as a Rolex will get. With the wide variety of case, dial, bezel, and bracelet options, there is likely a Datejust that will interest almost every collector.

If the Datejust is just too clichéd for you, there is also the Oysterquartz Datejust. More of an enthusiast favorite and definite oddity, these overbuilt quartz watches are nothing to look down at, as an Oysterquartz Datejust accompanied Reinhold Messner on his 1978 climb of Mt. Everest without oxygen.

Conclusion

While not entirely comprehensive, this guide should equip readers with enough information to confidently enter the world of Rolex Datejust watches. The many iterations over the decades that this model has been in production means that there is likely a model for everyone. There are many more complicated, robust, and unique watches out there, but a Rolex Datejust is often the only watch one needs.

12 Best Seiko Kinetic Watches (Not Your Typical Quartz Watch!)

Posted on August 4, 2023August 7, 2023 by Andrew O'Connor

Quartz watches almost put mechanical watches out of business during the late 1960s and early ’70s. While originally priced as premium products competing with mechanical watches, they quickly became cheaper and easier to mass produce. They were also much more reliable, durable, and accurate than mechanical watches, which was a priority to most buyers as timepieces still had the primary function of telling the time during this period.

Quartz watches only had one practical shortcoming compared to mechanical watches: the battery needed to be replaced. Early quartz watches were not as efficient as the ones we have today, often requiring a battery replacement every six months, frequent enough to be problematic when a mechanical watch could easily go a few years without service.

Additionally, early and high-end quartz movements were built to be serviceable, in addition to the frequent battery changes. That meant while they were more robust, reliable, and accurate, there was a period of time when quartz watches would require more frequent trips to the local watchmaker.

Seiko sought to find a solution to this. What if a quartz watch had a battery that didn’t need to be replaced? Especially if the watch still had to be serviced? While solar-powered watches introduced in the 1970s offered a relatively worry-free wearing experience, the power cell would need to be replaced every 10 years. Seiko wanted to focus on producing a watch with serviceable parts instead of replaceable ones.

The History Seiko Kinetic Watches

With the goal of reducing the environmental impact of mass-produced quartz watches, Seiko began developing movements that could be wound like a traditional mechanical watch but utilized electricity, providing the reliability and accuracy of quartz watches. Seiko began the development of a quartz movement that did not rely on a conventional battery in 1983.

The first of these watches that were commercially available was the SBAD001 and SBAD003. Released in late 1986, these watches were the first of their kind. Inside of these was the 8T23 movement, a movement where the generator for the capacitor was hand-wound.

In addition to telling the time, these two references had day and date displays, along with a full-charge indicator light at six o’clock. Upon full charge, the movement had 72 hours of power reserve; however, it took three minutes of continuous winding to reach a full charge.

The relatively short battery life compared to the amount of winding required made this watch a relative commercial flop, and Seiko discontinued the watch after only one year.

In January 1988, Seiko released the first “AGS” quartz watch, which stood for “Automatic Generating System”. Instead of being manually wound, a rotor similar to those found on automatic mechanical watches powered the generator.

These watches were a marked improvement over the manually wound caliber. Seiko succeeded in making a more ecologically minded quartz-regulated movement and earned Germany’s Blue Angel Mark for sustainable products.

Seiko renamed the “AGS” line to “Kinetic” in 1997. Seiko also released a variety of styles and complications, including the first AGS diver in 1992, the AGS “Flightmaster,” which included a GMT, and the first Kinetic chronograph in 2000.

In 1999, Seiko introduced a pause feature that would internally track the time while pausing the hands when not in use to save battery life. When the watch was worn again, the movement would correct the hands to the present time. Many watches in the Kinetic line have display casebacks, allowing the owner to view the movement, showing off the rotor that gave power to the movement.

As of 2021, it appears that Seiko has begun to phase out the Kinetic line, with no new models being introduced and limited availability. Entirely speculation, but this is likely because of the developments in solar technology, along with the development of higher-end quartz calibers that are more serviceable than those produced in the 1970s and 80s.

How Seiko Kinetic Watches Work

Seiko’s Kinetic movements are fairly unique in that they are “wound” similar to a mechanical watch. When “winding” the watch, the turn of the crown or the movement rotor turns a small electrical generator that charges a capacitor.

The movement is then run off of the capacitor, and the quartz movement runs the same as any other quartz movement. Because the capacitor is able to be recharged, battery replacements are no longer necessary.

While the first watch with this technology was hand-wound, Seiko later released a movement with automatic winding only and then one with both manual and automatic winding. With the automatic rotor, the rotor turns a gear train, multiplying the speed of the rotor spinning by one hundred times, creating a current that then charges the capacitor, which powers the circuits for the analog time display.

While the first watches to use this technology could only run for a few days, the technology improved, and modern Seiko Kinetic watches can run for up to six months on a full charge.

They also started as simple movements, only displaying the time, day and date, but later progressed to perpetual calendars, chronographs, and gmt movements. Similar to the rest of Seiko’s catalog, the brand released a multitude of models, ranging from quite dressy and formal to sporty and avant-garde.

Other Seiko Collections

While there has been some overlap between Seiko Kinetic watches and their other lines, currently, there are no Kinetic-powered watches in the current catalog. Lines that are part of the main Seiko line-up currently are Seiko 5, Prospex, Presage, and Astron.

The Seiko 5 focuses on Seiko’s entry-level offerings. Based on the five attributes of offering water resistance, an automatic movement, day and date function, a recessed crown at four o’clock, and a case and crown built for durability.

While some watches have strayed from the four o’clock crown and day and date function, timepieces within this collection continue to offer a great deal of value for beginning collectors or those looking for an affordable piece to add to their collection.

The Prospex range focuses on watches purpose-built for sporting activities. The most famous are the dive watches in the range, ranging from affordable quartz models to higher-end Spring Drive driven pieces; they are all built to withstand the trials of underwater adventures. Additionally, there are both automatic and quartz chronographs and GMT models.

Seiko’s Presage line is their more formal and “go-anywhere-do-anything” oriented model. Still offering a variety of complications, including GMTs, chronographs, power reserve indicators, and simple time and date models, these models are great options should you need something more dress-oriented or simply what a more simple and versatile timepiece.

The Seiko Astron collection is where Seiko is really pushing its quartz technology. Models in this collection are radio/satellite controlled, meaning they receive an input signal to synchronize the time, ensuring accurate time telling. Various models include perpetual calendars, world time functions, chronographs, and alarms.

While initially quite large, Seiko has been working on making them more wearable in recent years, making them ideal for world travelers or watch enthusiasts interested in the most cutting-edge time-telling technology. Additionally, if you are obsessed with accuracy, these watches are worth looking at.

12 Seiko Kinetic Watches To Know

While far from a comprehensive list, the watches listed below feature highlights from Seiko’s Kinetic powered watches.

Seiko Kinetic Dive Watch SKA371

This black-dialed dive watch features Seiko’s 5M62 kinetic-powered quartz movement. It features a 6-month power reserve, with a pusher at 2 o’clock that allows you to check the power reserve. The watch additionally features a date at 3 o’clock, is rated to +/- 15 seconds a month, has 6 jewels, and is 4.3mm thick.

The stainless steel case of the SKA371 measures 42.5mm wide, 14mm thick, 47mm lug-to-lug, and has a 20mm lug width. The black unidirectional bezel has a lume pip at 12 o’clock, and the dial is covered by a Hardlex crystal.

The watch comes with a stainless steel bracelet. The SKA371 has been discontinued, but the last published list price was 550 USD. Models continue to be available on the second hand market.

Seiko Kinetic Prospex SUN023 GMT

Part of the Prospex collection, this tool-focused diver features a 47.5mm wide PVD-coated stainless steel case that is 15mm thick, has 24mm lugs, and measures 51mm lug-to-lug. The black dial features plenty of lume and bright orange and blue accents.

The unidirectional dive bezel also features orange numerals, tying in with the minute hand. The blue 24-hour indications coordinate with the 24-hour hand, making reading both elapsed time and the second time zone a breeze.

Inside is the 5M85 movement. Similar to the 5M62 in dimensions and accuracy, it also features six months of power reserve and a power reserve indication feature by pushing the 2 o’clock pusher. The movement allows for independent setting of both the main hour hand (which is used to also adjust the date) and the 24-hour hand is set with the main hands.

The local hand jumps while maintaining the timekeeping function, preventing the need to reset the watch every time the owner jumps timezones. The case is water resistant to 200 meters and has a sapphire crystal covering the dial. The watch comes with a rubber strap.

While large and featuring a bold color scheme, the SUN023 makes an ideal summer travel watch. At the time of its release, the retail price was 675 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Perpetual Premier SNP161

Seiko’s Premier line features bold case designs that manage to make a bold statement while being dressy in appearance. The SNP161 combines a perpetual calendar with a large date display with their Kinetic movement technology. The stainless steel case measures 43mm wide, 12mm thick, 48.4mm lug-to-lug, and has a 22mm wide steel bracelet.

Inside is the 7D56 Kinetic movement, which has a rated accuracy of +/-15 seconds a month, has 16 jewels, and measures 6.1mm thick. There is a power save function, which stops the hands after 24 hours of no movement. The blue dial features textured patterns, sword hands, and baton markers. The last published retail price was 950 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Recraft SKA705

The Seiko Recraft collection focuses on a casual retro-oriented design influenced by Seiko’s back catalog. The SKA705 features a black ion-plated stainless steel case that measures 42mm wide, 12mm thick and has 22mm lugs. The watch comes with a nylon pass-through strap. The case is rated to 100 meters of water resistance.

The black dial features yellow accents, with white-colored lume on the hands and indices. The dial is covered by a Hardlex mineral crystal. Inside is the Seiko 5M82 caliber, with a date at the 4:30 position. This movement features the same power reserve feature by pushing the pusher at 2 o’clock and has a 6-month power reserve. The last published retail price for the Seiko Kinetic Recraft SKA705 was 325 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Premier Perpetual Novak Djokovic Special Edition SNP149P2

Made as a special edition for Seiko ambassador and tennis star Novak Djokovic. Featuring the same case design and movement as the SNP161, the SNP149P2 features a black dial with a striped dial decoration, alternating rose gold batons with Roman numerals, along with rose gold hands and subdials.

The crown is also rose gold plated, tying together the dial elements to the outer case. The watch is attached to a 22mm alligator patterned leather strap with a deployant buckle. The last published retail price for the Seiko SNP149P2 was 800 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Velatura Direct Drive SRH013

Seiko’s Velatura collection was originally intended as Seiko’s sailing-oriented collection. Boasting water resistance, and sporting designs, their water fairing intentions were clear. The SRH013 has a black IP-coated stainless steel case that measures 43mm wide and 13mm thick. Behind the sapphire crystal is a black dial with yellow accents.

The subdial at 4:30 displays the day of the week, with a power reserve at 9 o’clock and the date at six o’clock. The watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance and comes on a rubber strap, backing up the water sport-oriented design. Inside is the Seiko caliber 5D44. The last published retail price was 1395 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Coutura Retrograde SRN066

The Coutura collection consists of sporty designs with integrated straps and bracelets. Intended to be elegant yet bold, watches within this collection are intended to be capable of daily wear while fitting into a variety of situations.

The SRN066 has a 43mm black ion-plated stainless steel case and integrated bracelet, and a rose gold plated bezel. The case measures 12.1mm thick. The black dial with rose gold hands and indices is covered by a Hardlex mineral crystal.

Inside is the Seiko Caliber 5M84, which can be seen through the display caseback. In addition to the time and date, there is a retrograde day display between four and six o’clock and has a 6-month power reserve. The watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance, making it suitable for water activities.

While the Coutura collection is still on Seiko’s websites, the Kinetic movement loaded models seem to be discontinued, with the focus shifted to solar-powered movements. The last published retail price of the SRN066 was 495 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Premier Moonphase SRX015

Another complicated watch from the Premier collection, the SRX015 boasts a moonphase function. The caliber 5D88 displays the time, with a date subdial at three o’clock, a 24-hour indicator and day sub-dial at six o’clock, and a power reserve indicator for the one-month power reserve at nine o’clock. The silver textured dial alternates Roman numerals and stick indices for the hour markers.

The 42.5mm wide steel case is 14mm thick and comes with a 22mm wide steel bracelet. With a sapphire crystal and 100 meters of water resistance, it will be more than capable of daily wear and water activities. When last available, the retail price was 1195 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065

The Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065 shares the same case and movement as the SUN023 covered earlier in this article. Instead of the black case and bold colors on the dial, the SUN065 is a PADI special edition, sticking with the blue and red color scheme associated with the organization.

PADI stands for the Professional Association of Diving Instructors, an organization founded in 1966 by John Cornin and Ralph Erickson. It is a group dedicated to the training and education of divers, ranging from entry-level courses to specialized skills and certifications. As of 2022, their work has issued 29 million certifications.

The Seiko Prospex SUN065 has a 47.5mm wide stainless steel case that has both brushed and polished surfaces with a blue bezel insert. The blue dial has silver indices filled with lume and red accents coordinating with the 24-hour hand. The pusher at 2 o’clock is coated and colored blue, tying together the bezel and dial with the case. The Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065’s last published MSRP was 750 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Titanium SKA495

While most of the models mentioned have been part of the higher-end Seiko collections, the SKA495 is a more entry-level offering from Seiko, allowing collectors to obtain a Kinetic powered watch and a titanium case and bracelet. The last published MSRP was 450 USD.

The titanium case measures 40mm wide and 12mm thick and comes with an integrated titanium bracelet. Inside is the Seiko Caliber 5M62, offering 6 months of power reserve and a power reserve display function by pressing the crown at two o’clock. The case is water resistant to 100 meters, making it more than suitable for daily wear.

The dark gray dial has gold-colored hands and indices and is covered by a Hardlex crystal. With reasonable dimensions and great specifications, the Seiko SKA495 is a good candidate for a go anywhere, do anything watch.

Seiko Kinetic Sportura SUN015

The Seiko Sportura took its design inspiration from the automotive industry, creating timepieces that were both streamlined and futuristic in appearance.

The SUN015 represents a more restrained representation from the collection, but still quite bold. Measuring 45mm wide, 13mm thick, 51mm lug-to-lug, and coming on a 21mm wide steel bracelet, it will have plenty of presence on the wrist. Inside is the 5M85 movement seen in the other GMT watches mentioned, offering the date and second time zone in addition to displaying the time.

The case is rated to 100 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown, and the black dial with lumed hands and indices is covered by a sapphire crystal. The black bezel is made of ceramic, adding another scratch-resistant material to the front of the watch. When released, the SUN015 had a retail price of 750 USD.

Seiko Kinetic SMY139

Another lower-priced offering from Seiko, the SMY139 is more utilitarian-focused in its design. Featuring a black ion-plated 41mm wide case and 20mm bracelet, and a black dial with large lumed indices and 12, 6, and 9 numerals, the military inspiration is clear.

Measuring 11mm thick, rated to 100 meters of water resistance, and coming with a Hardlex crystal, the tough exterior is svelte enough to stay out of harm’s way while still handling some rough situations.

Inside is the 5M83 caliber, which is the same as the 5M82, but with both the day and date displayed. When originally released, the Seiko Kinetic SMY139 retailed for 380 USD.

Conclusion

Seiko’s pursuit of accuracy, reliability, and sustainability led them to create the AGS system, which would later be renamed Kinetic. These movements provided the accuracy, durability, and convenience of quartz while reducing reliance on disposable batteries and the convenience of an automatic movement, meaning the wearer’s movement would provide power for the watch.

With solar technology improving, the Kinetic movements have been phased out of Seiko’s current collection. For collectors interested in different types of movement technology, adding a Seiko Kinetic or two to the collection can add some diversity and intrigue to the more common battery-powered and mechanical spring-driven movements.

All About The Seiko “Willard” (A True Movie ICON!)

Posted on July 21, 2023August 7, 2023 by Andrew O'Connor

To many contemporary collectors, Seiko’s fame rides mostly on their development of reliable dive watches. Ranging from affordable and utility-focused executions to high-end masterclasses in case finishing and movement technology that is some of the best in modern watchmaking, Seiko has released a dive watch that will please almost every collector.

Within groups of Seiko enthusiasts, many models have been given affectionate nicknames, often referencing their appearance. One famous dive watch has risen to the status of cult favorite, the Seiko “Captain Willard.” The nickname does not stem from the design of the model but from its history and involvement in an iconic film, Apocalypse.

History of Seiko Dive Watches

The first Seiko dive watch was the reference 6217, most commonly referred to as the 62MAS for Model Automatic Selfdater. The 62MAS was produced from 1965 to 1968, featured 150 meters of water resistance, and had the automatic calibre 6217 inside, with 17 jewels and an 18,000 bph beat rate. The two versions were designated the 6217-8000 and 6217-8001, with the latter receiving a larger crown design.

About the Seiko 6105 “Captain Willard”

The famed “Captain Willard” reference 6105 was produced from 1968 to 1977, meaning this iconic reference was only the second production dive watch produced by Seiko. Still water resistant to 150 meters, an improvement was made to the automatic movement, including a higher 21,600 bph beat rate.

Two references were produced, the 6105A, which included a non-hacking movement, and the 6105B, which could be hacked for accurate setting. Neither model included the ability to be hand wound. Also of note is that neither of these models featured clicking, uni-directional bezels. They were only friction-fitted bi-directional bezels.

The black bezel features markings going all the way around instead of hash marks for only the last 15 minutes, as commonly seen on other divers. It was not until the second generation of the reference 7002, which was in production from 1988 to 1996, that Seiko would include a spring-loaded uni-directional bezel seen on modern divers today.

When Apocalypse Now was released in 1979, the character Captain Willard, played by Martin Sheen, was wearing a Seiko reference 6105. Eagle-eyed Seiko enthusiasts noted the watch and thus nicknamed the timepiece the “Captain Willard.”

Seiko Ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” Specifications

The case of the Seiko 6105 “Captain Willard” is very similar to the Seiko “Turtle” case we know today. The asymmetrical cushion case measures 44mm wide without the crown, and 47.5mm lug-to-lug, with a 19mm lug width. The case asymmetry is due to the design of the crown guard, protecting the locking crown from hard knocks.

While the case width seems quite large, the compact lug-to-lug keeps the watch wearable despite the tool-oriented size. This allows the watch to be large and easy to read while still easy to wear for a large variety of wrist sizes. The Seiko Hardlex crystal had anti-reflective characteristics, ensuring legibility in a variety of environments and also providing shatter resistance that sapphire does not.

The dial of the Seiko reference 6105 “Captain Willard” is black, with square and rectangular indices. The twelve o’clock marker is doubled and comes to a point at the bottom. The six and 9 o’clock markers are longer rectangles, with the remaining markers being smaller squared-shaped indices.

The hour and minute hands are rectangular in shape, with a shovel-shaped seconds hand, that mimics the 12 o’clock marker. The indices and hands are all lumed, allowing for low light reading. Additionally, there is a framed date window with a white disk and black print at three o’clock.

The reference 6105 original came with a black, textured rubber strap. Compared to many modern rubber straps, these were hard and brittle. They were pretty durable, but they often lived hard lives, making finding an original very difficult indeed.

If you are searching for a strap for the original look, many period-correct-looking straps on the market provide modern comfort and wearability. The Seiko 6105 retailed for $95 back in 1968, which is the equivalent of $828 as of June 2023.

Modern Seiko “Captain Willard” Watches

With the legacy of the reference 6105, Seiko has iterated on the iconic watch, releasing a variety of modern references that pay homage to the original while making changes to provide a broader range of options to collectors.

Seiko SPB151 & SPB153

These two references harken to the 6105 “Captain Willard” in their case shape and dial design. The SPB151 brings back the iconic black dial but now offers a factory steel bracelet. The SPB153 comes with a green dial and bezel with a black rubber strap. Both references are smaller than the 6105, measuring 42.7mm wide, 46.6mm lug-to-lug, 13.2mm thick, and 20mm lug width.

Both steel watches have a super hard surface coating and are rated to 200 meters of water resistance with a screw case-back and screw-down crown. Inside is the 6R35 movement, offering 70 hours of power reserve, with a stated accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds a day. The movement has 24 jewels, hacking seconds, and a date display.

The dials are covered by a curved sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective surface coating. The bracelet has a three-fold clasp with a lock, push button release, and dive extension. The rubber strap uses a conventional pin buckle to secure the watch to the wrist. The bezel is a unidirectional ratcheting type with similar markings to the 6105.

These two references may be the closest to the original intention of reference 6105, “Captain Willard.” While many changes have been made, they improve the durability and wearability of the watch. The SPB151 retails for $1300, and the SPB153 retails for $1100. While a bit more than the original 6105 when adjusted for inflation, the modern upgrades should make the increase in price worthwhile.

Seiko SPB237

If you like the idea of the SPB151 or SPB153 but want more of the vintage aesthetic, you might have if you found an original reference 6105, “Captain Willard,” the SPB237 is worth considering.

Featuring the same case and movement as the SPB151, the SPB237 features a black bezel with faded markers and a textured grey dial with faux vintage lume that results in an overall aged look. To continue with the previous military-issued vibe of this watch, it is fitted with an olive green nylon strap.

Retailing at $1300, it is the same price as the SPB151 on a bracelet. While you may not get the value of the metal bracelet, if this is the style you’re after, the premium will be worth the extra charm.

Seiko SLA033

With a price tag of $4250 and as a limited edition 2500 pieces, the SLA033 is less of a direct modern version of the reference 6105 and more of a love letter to the original “Captain Willard,” making it up in the best of what Seiko has to offer.

The stainless steel case measures 45mm wide, 49.7mm lug-to-lug, 13mm thick, and has 19mm lugs, very close to the original. Improvements are made with the 200 meters of water resistance. The case has a super hard coating but goes through the same Zaratsu polishing technique on the case and bezel as used on Grand Seiko and Credor watches.

The watch is hand-assembled in the same Shizukuishi studio as Seiko’s high-end brands, meaning the attention to detail with this reference is up there with the best companies in watches.

The black dial is covered by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, and there is a LumiBrite lume on the hands and indices. The bezel is also stainless steel, making it more durable and premium than the original aluminum inserts.

The 8L35 movement offers a 50-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, a hacking seconds hand, and date function, and is rated to +15/-10 seconds a day. The 8L series movements are also finished to a higher standard than the 6L movements seen in the SPB151.

The rubber strap is also similar to the original but made with modern comfort in mind. The watch is secured on the wrist with a stainless steel pin buckle.

The SLA033 is very much for those that love the style of the original reference 6105 “Captain Willard,” but demand to have the best watch possible. The SLA033 is Seiko’s take on a premium and modern “Captain Willard.”

Conclusion

With many fans of the iconic movie and Seiko building their reputation for making reliable watches, it is not surprising that the reference 6105 “Captain Willard ” has cultivated the fan base that it has over the years. Seiko’s unique designs separate them from other big brands, making them standouts in an overcrowded market of conventional dive watches.

Whether you are a fan of Apocalypse Now, in need of a trusted diver, or simply appreciate Seiko’s designs and build quality, any reference from an original 6105 to the luxurious SLA033 will likely serve any enthusiastic collector well.

The ULTIMATE Guide To The Rolex “Coke” GMT-Master II

Posted on July 21, 2023July 25, 2023 by Andrew O'Connor

Rolex has solidified its place in the watch industry as the default luxury watch. Proving to be the most prominent brand in terms of market share, the brand’s nickname, “The Crown”, is not baseless. They have produced some of the most iconic watches of the 20th and 21st centuries, such as the Submariner, Explorer, and the GMT-Master.

Different iterations of these watches have received nicknames from collectors over the years, including the red and black bezeled GMT-Master II referred to as the “Coke” GMT, after the iconic soft drink.

The Rolex GMT-Master

Even though Rolex is one of the top luxury brands today, its origins were centered around creating watches as practical tools. During World War I, they produced trench watches, some of the first purpose-built wristwatches, and distributed them to armed forces.

In 1926, they produced their first “Oyster” watch, a watch case that allowed for greater dust and water resistance, ensuring durability in more harsh environments. Famously, they marketed this by putting the watch in tanks of water in shop display windows, and swimmer Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel in 1927 with a Rolex Oyster on her wrist.

Fast forward to the 1950’s and purpose built sports watches became incredibly popular. While dive watches and chronographs usually get most of the attention, global air travel became more accessible and facile, and international commerce became more common. In 1954, Rolex produced the Rolex GMT Master reference 6542.

The original reference 6542 GMT Master had a 24-hour hand that mirrored the main time and an adjustable 24-hour bezel. The bezel was the only aspect of the watch that allowed for the tracking of an additional time zone. Developed in partnership with PanAm Airlines, the ability to track Greenwich Mean Time of Coordinated Universal Time was necessary for related paperwork, flight tracking, and record keeping.

The First Rolex “Coke” GMT

In 1983, Rolex released the GMT-Master II reference 16760. Produced alongside the GMT-Master until its discontinuation in the late 1990s, the GMT-Master II introduced the independently adjustable hour hand with the calibre 3085. Now, the main time, 24-hour hand, and bezel could be set separately, allowing the tracking of three timezones.

The 3085 did give up the quick adjust date function to gain the adjustable hour hand. The date on GMT-Master II models is adjusted by adjusting the local hour hand. The original 16760 was nicknamed the “Fat Lady,” due to the extra thickness required by the movement.

It also had a wider case, bezel, and crown. While the case was larger, it was only 100 meters water-resistant, which has been the standard for the GMT-Master II to this day. The 16760 was only available in steel with an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.

The 16760 was the first GMT-Master model to receive a sapphire crystal, white gold hands, and indices, eventually becoming standard across the entire Rolex lineup. The 16760 had tritium for the lume and was the model that made the Coke bezel iconic, as it was the only colorway available for the reference.

The End of the “Fat Lady,” Introducing the 16710

The 16760 was replaced by the 16710 when the former ceased production in 1988. The new calibre 3185 inside allowed for the same functions as the 3085 but was much slimmer, allowing the 16710 to have the same form factor as the GMT-Master and the contemporary Submariner at the time.

Case Comparison

Comparing the two models, the 16760 “Fat Lady” measures 39.14mm wide, excluding the crown, 47.6mm lug-to-lug, and 12.6mm thick. The 16710T (tritium dial) measured 39mm wide, excluding the crown, 47.11mm lug-to-lug, and 12mm thick. Oddly enough, the 16710T is slightly wider, including the crown, measuring 42.19mm wide compared to the 16760’s 42.06mm width, including the crown.

16710 Models and Evolution

The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 16710 with the “Coke” red and black bezel was produced from 1989 to 2005. Available in stainless steel, this time, the 16710 was available with red and black (16710A), red and blue (16710B), and all-black bezels (16710N), along with both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets.

Dial Variations

The hands and markers were still made of white gold, with the lume being made of tritium from 1989 to 1997, and were demarcated with the T<25 indications at the bottom of the dial. In 1998, Rolex switched the 16710 to Luminova, with the “Swiss Dial” marking at six o’clock.

Some Luminova models made in 1998 still had the T<25 on the dial. Finally, in 2000, the GMT-Master II received Super-LumiNova for the hands and markers, with a “Swiss-made dial” indicated underneath the six o’clock index. Towards the end of the 16710’s production, there was also the introduction of the “Stick Dial.”

Traditionally, the GMT-Master II had a Roman number two. During the transition period between the 3185 and 3186 movements, Rolex introduced a rare variation where the II was written as two straight lines, hence the nickname.

Bracelet, Crystal, and Case Evolutions

Another evolution that happened over time was the addition of solid end-links in 2000. In 2003, the laser-etched crown logo into the crystal was added, along with the removal of the lug holes with the late Y-series serial numbers.

In 2007, modern plastic certificates and warranty cards were introduced, along with the upgraded caliber 3186 with the Z and M-series serial numbers, which included the upgrade to a Parachrom hairspring.

Who is a GMT-Master II For?

Without a doubt, Rolex makes some of the most reliable mechanical watches available. They have become the gold standard in tool-oriented timepieces. If owning a reliable watch capable of tracking multiple time zones is a must, one would likely not go wrong by purchasing a Rolex GMT-Master II of any generation.

For the 16760 and 16710 references, in particular, they are currently for dedicated collectors of vintage and late model Rolex. While the “Pepsi” variant may be the most famous, the “Coke” bezel was the only bezel available for the 16760.

Additionally, the red and black bezel 16710 continues that tradition. For collectors who like to stay close to the original models, the red and black bezel is the way to go for a GMT-Master II. With the availability of modern Rolex models being inconvenient at best, some first-time Rolex buyers have turned their attention to discontinued and used models.

While current market prices are more than new GMT-Master II models in steel, they are more stable and available than a GMT-Master II at retail. It is impossible to predict future prices, but history suggests prices on discontinued models, especially those several years out, will be relatively stable.

While there are many potential upsides of any Rolex model, collecting vintage Rolex watches has its downsides. If one is accustomed to modern watches, the character of the bracelets and clasps are markedly different.

16760 and early 16710 Coke bezel GMT Master II watches will have hollow end-links, and all 16760 and 16710 will have stamped clasps, both of which will make the bracelets feel significantly less substantial compared to modern watches.

Additionally, the aluminum bezels are not as scratch and fade-resistant as modern ceramic. Many “Coke” bezels have aged well, as the paint is not as susceptible to fading, but they still will not fare as well as modern ceramic.

A downside of modern ceramic bezels is that they are more likely to shatter with hard impacts and are more costly to replace compared to aluminum, even compared to finding vintage correct OEM aluminum bezels.

Alternatives to the Rolex Coke GMT

If a Rolex Coke GMT is not in the cards for any number of reasons, but the black and red bezel is appealing, here are some more easily attainable options to consider.

Timex M79 Automatic (ref. TW2U83400ZV)

If the idea of a vintage watch is appealing, and you enjoy the color scheme, but the prices of a vintage Rolex are far from possible, the Timex M79 should be considered. With a thin steel bracelet, aluminum bezel, and lightweight, the Timex M79 will mimic a great deal of the look and feel of a vintage watch.

The two-tone red and black bezel also adds to the vintage appeal. Unfortunately, this model only has the time, day, and date functions, forgoing multi-timezone tracking abilities. The Timex M79 measures 40mm wide, 14.5mm thick, and has an 18mm lug width.

The dial is covered with an acrylic crystal and is rated to 50 meters of water resistance. Inside is a Miyota automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve and can be hand-wound. The Timex M79 delivers in terms of style and budget but is not as durable or functional as other timepieces discussed in this article.

The Timex M79 Automatic retails for $289.

Davosa Ternos Ceramic GMT “Coke” Bezel (ref. 161.590.90)

The Davosa Ternos Ceramic GMT offers a number of significant upgrades over the Timex M79. Firstly, the Davosa has the multi-timezone functionality the Timex lacks. The SW330 movement inside allows for independent adjustability of the 24-hour hand, making it a “caller” style GMT, making alternate timezones easier to track from home.

Additionally, the Davosa has a water resistance rating of 200 meters, making it more than capable of handling aquatic adventures. The Davosa Ternos Ceramic GMT reference 161.590.90 measures 40mm wide, 47.9mm lug-to-lug, and 12.2mm thick.

The ceramic indication in the name refers to the bezel, adding the red and black color scheme to a ceramic bezel, something Rolex has not done yet. The Davosa Ternos also features a sapphire crystal with magnifying Cyclops for the date window.

While definitely more premium than the Timex, the Davosa is still significantly more affordable than the Rolex, retailing at $1399.

Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT (ref. BR0393-BL-ST/SCA)

The black and red color scheme has its own appeal, but it is understandable how seeing that scheme in the same shape can become commonplace. The Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT offers something different, presenting a GMT package in the signature Bell & Ross square shape.

The BR 03-93 GMT measures 42mm wide, 52mm lug-to-lug, 13.5mm thick, and has a 24mm lug width. Inside is the BR-Cal303, based on the ETA 2893-2, offering a 42-hour power reserve and a 28,800 beat rate.

The dial is covered by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, and the case offers 100 meters of water resistance. Again, the movement provides quick adjustment of the GMT hour hand, making it a caller-style GMT watch. With its own unique aviation-inspired design, the inspiration of this BR 03-93 GMT reference is clear but manages to have its own character.

The Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT retails for $4200.

Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT (ref. 103-1153)

While not original in its design, Steinhart offers a great deal of value for the prices they charge. Measuring 39mm wide and 13mm thick, with a 20mm lug width, this stainless steel watch has an SW330-2 élaboré GMT movement inside, allowing for independent adjustment of the 24-hour hand.

Covering the matte black dial is a sapphire crystal with a date magnifier, and the red and black bezel is made of ceramic. The case is rated to 300 meters of water resistance. Steinhart does offer a variety of options as well, including a jubilee bracelet and a larger 42mm variant.

With that, the case design is quite flat, offering little curvature, making the watch wear a little larger than the dimensions may suggest. Additionally, the clasp, while functionally, is not as advanced as many on the market today. While some brands costing much more use similar clasps, other more affordably priced watches have better clasps.

The Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT retails for around $700.

Squale 30 Atmos Black/Red GMT Ceramica 1545 Coke Bezel

Squale has a storied history of making durable dive watches since the 1950s. Many have more original designs, but others, like the 30 Atmos seen here, stick to more mainstream designs. While clearly very similar to the classic design, the case has broader lugs and a large screw-down crown as distinguishing features.

Additionally, the stick hands and square seconds hand lume pip add their own character. The stainless steel case measures 40mm wide, 20mm lug width, 12.5mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. Inside is either an ETA 2893-2 or Sellita SW330-1, depending on movement availability.

Both movements offer quick adjustment of the GMT hand and a date function. The matte black dial is under a sapphire crystal, and the black and red bezel is made of ceramic. The 30 Atmos refers to the water resistance, meaning the watch is tested to 300 meters.

The Squale 30 Atmos Black/Red GMT Ceramica retails for $799.

Conclusion

Rolex has undoubtedly been a market leader for decades, especially when it comes to tool-oriented watches. The design of the GMT-Master II has made it the standard in regard to multi-timezone timepieces. The release of the 16760 ensured not only the GMT-Master II’s place in history but also the red and black “Coke” bezel.

This has made Coke bezel Rolex GMT-Master II watches highly collectible, and their value has continued to represent ongoing demand. Also, the iconic design has been used as a source of inspiration for other watches, both with and without GMT functionality. Whether it is an original Rolex Coke GMT or another watch from another brand, this iconic design has won the hearts of many collectors and surely will for years to come.

the ultimate guide to Vintage Swatch Watches

Ultimate Guide to Vintage Swatch Watches (Collectors Rejoice!)

Posted on July 21, 2023July 24, 2023 by Andrew O'Connor

Without Swatch, it is pretty likely that the modern Swiss watch industry would not exist, at least not in the way it does today. Their innovative marketing, attractive and culturally relevant designs, and affordable prices have made them extremely popular.

Swatch watches were always intended to be mass-produced items, but the brand’s widespread popularity made them collectible. With the brand celebrating 40 years in 2023, it is remarkable that a brand could make such a large cultural impact within watches, fashion, and general consumerism in a relatively short period of time.

History of Swatch

Swatch was founded by Jacques Müller, Ernst Thomke, and Elmar Mock in 1983. Swatch’s goal was to recapture the entry-level market that the Swiss had lost due to the quartz crisis. At the time, Ernst Thomke was the CEO of ETA SA, the movement manufacturer, with Mock and Müller serving as engineers on the team.

Marketing consultant Franz Sprecher was brought on the team to provide a different perspective, bringing in the fashion-oriented element. Jacques Irniger was hired to help with the marketing, and on March 1st, 1983, Swatch was launched with 12 models.

Prices ranged from 39.90 to 49.90 CHF but were adjusted to 50 CHF within the year. Because of an aggressive marketing campaign and attractive price, Swatch became an instant hit. The involvement of the famed entrepreneur Nicolas G. Hayek did not start until 1985, when he and a group of Swiss investors took a majority shareholder position in Swatch.

Their holdings were consolidated under the Societe Suisse de Microelectronique et d’Horlogerie. When Hayek became CEO in 1986, the name was changed to the Swatch Group that we know today.

Swatch Watches

As mentioned, Swatch watches are mass-produced watches with fashion-oriented designs at generally affordable prices. The first Swatch watches were made of plastic cases with plastic/rubber straps and quartz movements. The name Swatch comes from the contraction of “second watch.”

The idea that you would wear your Swatch when wearing your nice watch was not appropriate, or you wanted something more casual. Should your Swatch stop working, you were instructed to throw it away and replace it with a new one.

Not only did this incentivize buying more Swatches, but also subtly pointed at the consumer’s “need” for a more serious luxury watch. Swatch’s creativity did not stop at the concept of the brand. The original models were plastic, but they later expanded into metal cases and automatic movements while maintaining affordability.

Additionally, they would frequently collaborate with artists and designers for limited editions, increasing popularity and collectibility. This generated a group of collectors focused on Swatch and its limited editions, perpetuating enthusiasm for the brand.

Notable Vintage Swatches

Swatch GK100 SP “The Jelly Fish”

While an equivalent model is in the current catalog, the originals were part of the brand’s launch in 1983. Limited to 200 pieces, the transparent case and strap showed off the watch’s charming attributes, revealing the quartz movement’s inner workings and simple case construction. They were so popular that Swatch is rumored to have made an additional 300 for VIP clients.

Additionally, different versions have been made since then, and this model’s popularity continues. While incomplete versions (lacking box and papers) can be found for a few hundred dollars, a 1983 original with all of the original box and papers can be upwards of a few thousand dollars.

Kiki Picasso Special Edition

Released in 1985 as a special edition of 120 watches, with each having a unique dial variation, the Kiki Picasso (no relation to Pablo Picasso or his family) edition holds the record for the highest price achieved at auction for a Swatch, selling for $22,600.

With the release, limited edition posters were handed out with different dial variations. While others were released that were not on the poster, the ones featured on the poster command the highest prices. If having ultimate Swatch bragging rights is the goal, this is one to chase after.

Keith Haring Special Editions

The popular artist collaborated with Swatch in 1986 for a limited edition series consisting of four different models. Given both the artist’s and Swatch’s popularity at the time, these models have become highly desirable. A complete set of the original four watches sold at auction in 2016 for $3000.

Swatch has also recently collaborated with Haring’s estate, releasing watches based on the artist’s interpretation of Mickey Mouse. In doing so, Swatch managed to create a future collectible while also ensuring the future collectability of past models.

Swatch Tresor Magique

To celebrate the 10-year anniversary of the brand, Swatch went big and released the Swatch Tresor Magique as a 12,999-piece limited edition. While not truly limited like other editions, speculation leads that Swatch thought this would be a huge success. It did have a barrier to entry; a price tag of $1619 back in 1993. The reason for the high price tag? A case made of high-polished platinum.

The Swatch Tresor Magique contained an ETA 2840 automatic movement inside the 34mm platinum case. The watch came with more premium packaging, additional straps, and a strap tool. Contrary to other Swatch watches, the case back is snap-on, allowing for access and servicing of the movement.

Should you want to be more tongue-in-cheek about precious metal watch collecting, this would be a great option. Good examples with all the original packaging are still available for under $3000.

Swatch Diaphane One

Jumping ahead to 2001, Swatch, and Swatch Group, have become major players in the watch industry, and mechanical watches are here to stay. To show off their watch-making abilities, Swatch released the Diaphane One.

The watch features a movement where the main plate containing the balance spring is featured on the dial side and rotates once every thirty minutes. This serves as a pseudo-carousel/tourbillon movement without the complication of smaller internal cages. The mechanical hand-wound movements were skeletonized and highly decorated. The outer case was still plastic, but the inner one was aluminum.

Definitely aimed at a luxury buyer, the 2222 limited edition retailed for 3300 Euros back in 2001. Today, examples can be found for around $4000. This edition is definitely for the Swatch enthusiast who is also a complicated watch enthusiast.

Swatch FLYMAGIC

Used to unveil Swatch’s development and use of their anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring in 2019, the FLYMAGIC takes the Sistem51 architecture and reverses it, placing the winding, balance spring, gear-train, and time-telling aspects of the watch on the dial side to be viewed by the wearer.

The Nivachron escapement is a technological feat, as it reduces the impact of magnetic fields on timekeeping up to a factor of 10, depending on the movement. Being entirely Swiss-made, it can easily be boasted as a point of pride for the Swatch Group.

Since 2019, the Nivachron hairspring has made its way into many watches within Swatch Group’s portfolio. Even other Sistem51 timepieces feature the Nivachron hairspring, allowing even entry-level collectors to boast this watchmaking feat on their wrists.

The FLYMAGIC originally retailed for $1500 but can be found under $3000 currently, showing it has gained some value as a collectible since 2019.

Who Is Swatch Collecting For?

With desirable models collecting high premiums at auction and good, working examples being difficult to find, it is understandable why this may scare away more casual watch collectors.

The good news is that many models are still very affordable, and the high-end of the achieved prices stated are reserved for pristine examples of rare models with all of their original packaging.

That means everything else in Swatch’s 40-year history that is less than pristine, rare, and desirable is still relatively obtainable. Pristine examples of less rare or popular watches can often be found close to their original retail price. If a little wear and tear are okay, more collectible models can be had at reasonable prices.

There are a few good resources online for vintage Swatch watches, should you be interested in learning more. Swatchvintagecollection.com and swatchandbeyond.com both serve as great resources for information, along with having watches for sale. Vintageradar.com also has a nice selection of vintage Swatch watches, should you like someone else to do the vetting process for you.

Through research and knowledge, you may even garner the confidence to go to online auctions to find the model you desire. With that, past listings are also a good place to find information.

Conclusion

With a 40-year back-catalog of seasonal releases on top of special and limited editions, that means that Swatch collecting can be tailored to individual tastes. From the more restrained and reserved to outlandish and bold and everything in between, there is likely at least a Swatch or two that will gain your interest.

Because of this, Swatch collecting still maintains the original ethos of the brand; there is Swatch for almost everyone.