Author: Alexios (Editor)

More often than not, I find myself reporting on watches that have just launched. I’m usually trawling the latest exhibitions and trying on brand-new pieces that are fresh off the design bench. So, it’s not often I get to review a watch that’s been out for a while, whether it’s a watch I previously missed or one I’ve not had the chance to sit down with for a long time. 

In the case of today’s review, it’s the latter. The Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 is a watch I’ve not seen, or honestly really thought of, since I first started collecting watches. That’s because this is a timepiece that came out over a decade ago, a time before Grand Seiko split from Seiko to become its own brand. 

So, why the trip back in time to review the SBGM021? Well, it’s simple: sometimes, it’s worth taking a second look at a watch purely for the fun of it. Has this Grand Seiko kept its original charm, or has it begun to feel a bit outdated?

A Decade-Old Watch

In case you’re not familiar with it, the story of Grand Seiko began in 1960 as Seiko’s high-end sub-brand. It was a collection created to show the world that Japanese craftsmanship, or at least Seiko’s craftsmanship, could rival those that were leading the way in Switzerland. 

Their goal was simple: to create a watch with incredible accuracy, durability, and beauty. For decades, the brand rather quietly crafted timepieces under the Seiko umbrella, slowly but surely earning a reputation among watch enthusiasts for the exact reasons they set out: beauty, precision, and robustness. 

However, in 2017, Grand Seiko officially split from Seiko to operate as a distinct luxury brand. While still owned by the same parent company, this independence gave Grand Seiko greater creative control and allowed it to further elevate its designs and innovation, competing directly with established Swiss luxury brands. 

This shift marked Grand Seiko’s evolution from a hidden gem to a front-line luxury label known worldwide for its incredible craftsmanship and distinct, heritage-inspired designs. 

The Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 is a prime example of a model from Grand Seiko’s “pre-independence” era. Released in 2013, it features a rare dial layout where the Seiko logo sits prominently at 12 o’clock while the Grand Seiko logo rests at 6 o’clock. 

This layout is a relic of its days as a Seiko sub-brand, making it something of a historical artifact and a piece of evidence of Grand Seiko’s pre-transitional period. 

Owning a pre-2017 Grand Seiko like the SBGM021 is, in a way, owning a piece of the brand’s legacy as it’s a design that reflects the brand’s journey from a prestigious but understated sub-brand to a globally respected luxury label. 

Its historical significance has also added to its value, especially among collectors who appreciate Grand Seiko’s history. It’s for this reason, it’s a pleasure to get hands-on with the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch again after over a decade.

A Vintage Case 

The case of the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch is a wonderful blend of vintage design cues and modern craftsmanship, drawing clear inspiration from Grand Seiko’s original 1967 62GS case, albeit with updated proportions. 

Measuring 39.5mm across and 13.7mm thick, it’s a really nice size for my five-and-a-half inch. It’s a set of dimensions I’d happily wear daily, and yet, with its polished finish, it gives the model a formal edge. 

One of the standout features of the SBGM021’s case is its Zaratsu polishing, a technique that’s well-known by Grand Seiko watch collectors at this point. Achieving Zaratsu’s mirror-finish shine requires highly skilled artisans who have mastered the art after several years of training. 

The process involves holding the precious stainless steel against a spinning tin plate at precise angles and pressure, creating a reflection so smooth and clear that, when I wore this watch, I could use parts of the case like a mirror! 

And given the rounded, almost “pot-bellied” profile of this case’s architecture, that perfect polish is a challenge to achieve, demanding absolute precision to get that seamless, symmetrical finish. 

The lugs of the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 are a highlight, too. They’re short, gently curved, and feature broad polished facets that really catch the light. 

I wouldn’t mind a touch more satin brushing for contrast, but as it stands, the variation between polished sections on the case sides and lug tops adds just enough depth to keep things visually interesting. 

Then there’s the domed box sapphire crystal on top, a feature that subtly nods to the watch’s vintage roots. It almost looks like 1960s plexiglass, except you can expect a whole lot more scratch resistance and durability. 

The front pairs with a sapphire case back, which allows for an unobstructed view of the automatic movement working hard inside. The case back has six screws around the edge to help ensure its water resistance of 30 meters. 

In a similar fashion, the crown, at 3 o’clock, is gently knurled, making it easy to operate. It’s a simple push-pull crown and is embossed with the GS logo in relief. 

An Ivory Lacquer Dial 

For the dial, the Japanese watchmaker has opted for a beautiful ivory lacquer base, which fits all too well with the vintage charm it aims for. It has the same classic refinement of early Grand Seiko models with a rich, creamy finish that captures and softens light beautifully. Like the sizing and polishing of the case, it’s a color that works well during the day as well as during formal evening occasions. 

One of the first things that catches your eye is the dual branding on the dial. It’s an unusual feature in today’s world and a direct result of this model’s pre-2017 origins when Grand Seiko was still a Seiko sub-brand. 

At 12 o’clock, the silvered “Seiko” logo is prominently displayed, while the vintage “Grand Seiko” insignia is subtly positioned at 6 o’clock, accompanied by the “Automatic” and “GMT” text in classic black print. 

Some might find the dual branding distracting or less “luxury” than post-2017 Grand Seiko models, but to me, it adds character. It’s a reminder of the brand’s history and offers a genuine vintage appeal that’s rare in today’s market. 

The hands and markers also help the dial shine, both literally and figuratively. Each hour marker is crafted with micro-metric faceting, meticulously finished and polished using diamond-tipped tools by hand to catch the light with a jewel-like quality. 

It’s these painstaking details that make Grand Seiko’s dials feel almost alive. The markers, like the sword-like dauphine hands, gleam with a mix of satin and high-polish finishes, creating contrast against the ivory lacquer. 

Of course, you also have the GMT function which is tastefully executed with a short blued GMT hand. It’s a subtle pop of color that contrasts elegantly against the other polished steel hardware and cream backdrop. 

Unlike many GMT watches where the extra hand can clutter the dial, here it’s compact and discreet, marked with a thick arrow tip that’s easy to read without overwhelming the design. The dial’s internal 24-hour scale is printed in black for clarity, aligning with the black minute track that runs along the outer edge. 

The only other feature to note on the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch’s dial is the date window placed at 3 o’clock. It’s been cleverly integrated into the layout, taking the place of the hour marker in a way that maintains the dial’s symmetry. Framed elegantly with its own polished silver border, it provides functionality without disrupting the balance.

Movement 

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch is the automatic winding Caliber 9S66. Yes, it’s not quite as spectacular as maybe Grand Seiko’s well-known Spring Drive or Hi-Beat movements, but it’s still a beautiful in-house movement that features everything you could need, from an impressive power reserve to chronometer-worthy levels of accuracy. 

The “9S66” designation of the caliber tells you all you need to know. The 9S indicates that it’s from Grand Seiko’s mechanical series, while the “66” points to its dual-time capability, allowing you to track a second time zone with ease. 

This model includes a “true GMT” function, meaning the hour and GMT hands are independently adjustable. In practical terms, this allows you to set the local hour hand separately from the GMT hand, an especially convenient feature for travelers since you can adjust the local time without interfering with the main time display or the second time zone. 

The Caliber 9S66’s daily accuracy is particularly impressive, adjusted to an astonishing -3 to +5 seconds per day. That’s better than the industry-standard chronometer specifications, which permit -4 to +6 seconds. 

Grand Seiko also rigorously adjusts each movement to six positions rather than the typical five positions used in Swiss chronometers. It’s just another way Grand Seiko proves they’re in direct competition with the Swiss, always trying to do better. 

Beyond its precision, the Caliber 9S66 is robust and built to last, with a 72-hour (or 3-day) power reserve that gives you plenty of leeway before needing a rewind. The movement uses 35 jewels and incorporates Grand Seiko’s proprietary SPRON materials in both the mainspring and hairspring, providing exceptional anti-magnetic resistance and resilience. It also operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Straps

The strap isn’t usually the first thing you notice about a watch, but upon taking the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 out of its box for this review, I was really surprised at how nice the strap felt and looked. It’s subtle yet unmistakably luxurious, with a brown alligator print on the top and a soft, milky-smooth calfskin lining on the underside. The calfskin feels incredibly supple against the wrist, giving it a broken-in comfort right from the first wear.

The shade of brown is a classic match for the ivory dial, and the brown stitching adds just enough structure without taking away from the overall refinement. Adding a vintage-inspired touch, the stainless steel pin buckle harkens back to Grand Seiko’s early designs from the 1960s. It features a beautifully engraved Grand Seiko logo, carefully set against a textured backdrop that’s intentionally noticeable and has a single, push button-release fold for easy wear.

At 19mm, the lugs might pose a challenge for finding alternative straps, but the SBGM021’s drilled lugs make swapping them a breeze if you’re in the mood for a new look. While the alligator strap gives it a formal edge, a vintage-style calfskin strap with off-white stitching could add a bit of rugged character and help the watch transition from a dress watch to more of a comfortable travel companion.

On-Wrist Experience

So, how did I find wearing the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch this past week? Honestly, it’s been a delightful experience. At 39.5mm wide and 13.7mm thick, the watch manages to sit lower on the wrist than you might expect, thanks to its bowl-shaped case design. This makes it surprisingly versatile, fitting a wide range of wrist sizes, from as small as 6 inches to as large as 8 inches.

While it is slightly thicker than anticipated, keep in mind that some of that is due to the domed sapphire crystal, which adds to the vintage appeal. It’s also a thickness that is manageable, and unless you’re completely committed to a super tight shirt cuff, you’ll still be able to pull this off nicely with formal attire. 

The alligator strap adds another layer of comfort that is worth noting. It feels luxurious against the skin and contributes to keeping the weight of the stainless steel nicely balanced. It’s not a heavy watch, but you still feel like you’re wearing something solid and special.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGM021, while a remarkable timepiece, is now over ten years old, making it somewhat of a rarity in the market today. If you’re on the hunt for this specific model, don’t expect to find it brand new at your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer. If you do, please just make sure they are authorized to sell Grand Seiko watches first. We’d hate for you to purchase a counterfeit timepiece. 

For those looking for authentic models, stick to websites like Exquisite Timepieces which are reputable authorized Grand Seiko stockists, selling all their new models complete with official paperwork and warranties.

For those who want to get their hands on the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021, your best bet is to explore the second-hand market. While this model is relatively scarce, it can occasionally be found.

The watch typically sells for around $4,000 in the pre-owned market. This price point reflects its historical significance and the overall collectability of Grand Seiko watches today.

And if you’re unable to find a pre-owned SBGM021 or if you prefer something brand new, consider the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221. Priced at $4,600, it features the same stunning ivory lacquer dial and GMT complication, along with a compact set of dimensions. Keep in mind that it boasts the updated Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock, eliminating the Seiko branding entirely, but it retains much of the charm and specifications of the SBGM021.

Conclusion

So there you have it; the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221 might just be even better now than it was when it was released. It continues to exemplify everything the brand stands for, even after a decade, offering high levels of beauty, accuracy, and durability. 

It’s a dress watch that perfectly blends elegance and functionality, giving you a formal look with technology to get you through every day and symbolizing a piece of Grand Seiko’s history we should never forget.

I’m particularly fond of the rounded case and domed sapphire crystal. It gives the watch a beautiful vintage aesthetic that makes you forget you own a modern-day timepiece and, instead something truly from the 1960s. I also love the leather strap. It’s incredibly soft and comfortable and complements the ivory lacquer dial nicely.

Finally, I need to applaud Grand Seiko for the thoughtful dial layout. It’s all too easy for GMT watch dials to feel overly complicated and busy, especially when incorporating a date complication and dual branding, like in this instance. 

And while I know it’s not the cleanest of dials, it’s still sophisticated, refined, and easily legible. It’s for all these reasons the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221 watch has retained its appeal even after ten years.

I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing a number of watches throughout my career, but if there’s one brand whose press photos almost never do their watches justice, it’s Grand Seiko. That’s not to say they are bad photographers or even bad at marketing; it’s simply that these watches have such incredible attention to detail and high levels of finishing that even the best cameras in the world can’t photograph their beauty. 

There are a number of Grand Seiko watches I could use as an example for this point, but the model I had the joy of reviewing this week is the perfect example: the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013. 

It’s a simple watch in many ways, especially for Grand Seiko. There’s no overly complicated texture or pattern on the dial, a classic – although highly accurate– quartz movement inside, and an easily wearable 40mm case made in commonly seen stainless steel. So how does a watch that sounds so regular on paper become one of the most beautiful entry-level watches I’ve ever seen?

The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch was first released in 2020, and added to the Japanese watchmaker’s Heritage collection. It joined two other models, also forming part of this entry-level family, including the cream-coloured SBGP009 and the black-dialed SBGP011. 

At the time, these three models replaced the SBGV221 with a champagne dial and the SBGV223 with a black dial. Their biggest improvement was the movement change, with the updated Caliber 9F85 taking the place of the older Caliber 9F82. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch and its two brothers that launched with it ticked all the boxes of the luxury watch manufacturer’s Heritage collection. Stylistically, they had classic silhouettes with predominantly polished cases, clear and easy-to-read dials, and fine attention to detail. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage family is, for largely this reason, known for its classic appeal and is often a popular choice for collectors wanting the Grand Seiko name at an accessible price. Sure, there are watches in the collection powered by their more affluent Spring Drive and Hi-Beat movements, but those powered by their 9F quartz series are excellent for those seeking an entry-level timepiece. The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is one of the same.

A Super Slim Case 

With a diameter of 40mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm, and a thickness of just 10.6mm, this watch might be up there as one of Grand Seiko’s most wearable models. It fits comfortably on the wrist and is especially low. 

I know many of my fellow Grand Seiko lovers out there often have a hard time with some of their case sizes, especially the thickness. The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is an exception to the rule, however, sitting wonderfully low on the wrist, making it ideal for any of you who have a penchant for tight shirt cuffs. The low profile allows the watch to slide effortlessly under the sleeves, providing both elegance and practicality. 

The dimensions help to set the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch apart, too, for its versatility. Whether you have smaller wrists like mine—measuring just five inches—or larger wrists up to eight inches, this watch accommodates all. It strikes a balance between making a statement and offering a sleek, almost skin-like feel.

The case is entirely finished by hand using Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing technique, which creates an exceptional mirror-like shine. Trained artisans carefully hold the stainless steel against a spinning tin plate, a technique that takes up to three years to learn. But hopefully, as you can tell, the result will be worth it. 

It delivers a beautifully polished finish and a standard of craftsmanship that I believe is rare in the watch industry today, especially at this price point. In contrast to the polished surfaces, the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 features some satin brushed elements on the lug tops and bracelet links, enhancing its visual appeal and adding depth to the overall design. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 boasts an impressive 100 meters of water resistance, which is not often seen in dress watches like this. Grand Seiko ensures that most of their timepieces offer at least this level of protection, thanks to a securely closed and screw-down stainless steel case back and a reliable push-pull crown at the 3 o’clock position. 

While an exhibition case back might have been a nice addition should there have been a mechanical movement placed inside, the engraved lion emblem in relief on the back is a worthy substitution that reflects the brand’s fierce and powerful identity. The crown itself is gently knurled and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo. 

Lastly, the bezel features a conical shape that is smoothly polished using the same Zaratsu technique. This beautifully anchors the slightly domed sapphire crystal glass at the top, which is treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface. This not only reduces glare but also lends the watch a subtle vintage charm, completing a well-rounded timepiece that is as functional as it is stylish. 

A Classic Navy Blue Dial 

Some dial colors are truly classic, and when it comes to timeless options, black, silver, and navy blue will always be at the top of the list. While I appreciate the recent trend toward brightly colored watch dials, there’s always a place for these classic hues that effortlessly complement any outfit or occasion. The deep navy blue dial of the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is the perfect example of this. 

Its dark blue surface showcases a stunning sunburst decoration, creating a subtle shimmer that adds depth to the watch face. Depending on the lighting conditions, the shade of blue can change ever so slightly—one moment appearing as a rich royal blue and the next taking on an almost black appearance. This dynamic quality enhances the watch’s versatility, making it suitable for both casual and formal settings. 

Like the case, the dial is completely hand-finished, which is truly remarkable for a watch at this price point. Every detail, from the hands to the hour markers and the date window, is meticulously crafted by skilled artisans using diamond-tipped milling tools. 

These talented craftsmen specialize in creating tiny components all day, every day, ensuring that each piece is of the highest quality. The hour and minute hands are sharp and modern, while the seconds hand is slim and straightforward, making it almost unnoticeable as it glides around the dial. 

Each hour marker is slightly faceted, reflecting light beautifully and enhancing the dial’s overall aesthetic. These markers elegantly match the hands with their own mix of polished and brushed finishes. 

The only other hardware on the dial is the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock, accompanied by the Grand Seiko name printed directly beneath it, and the bordered date window at 3 o’clock, which features a black-on-white date disc, providing essential functionality without cluttering the face. 

Notably, there’s no writing positioned at 6 o’clock, which is often the case with many watches. This design choice contributes to a clean, crisp finish that makes the dial feel uncluttered and sophisticated. 

I do find myself wishing that the date disc here was finished in navy blue rather than white for added aesthetic appeal, but I can appreciate that the current design enhances legibility and still does not detract from the overall display. This is just me being picky.

A Caliber 9F Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 is powered by the Caliber 9F85 quartz movement, which is widely regarded as one of the best quartz calibers on the market. This movement boasts incredible tolerances of +/- 10 seconds per year, a remarkable achievement in the realm of quartz technology. 

In comparison, standard quartz movements typically have an accuracy rating of around +/- 15 seconds per year, making the 9F85 significantly more precise. This level of accuracy is attributed to several advanced features, including a quartz trimmer designed to adjust for drift in the quartz crystal over the years, ensuring that your watch remains as accurate as the day you bought it. 

Another noteworthy characteristic of the Caliber 9F85 movement is its thermal compensation. This means that the movement is engineered to adjust for variations in temperature that can affect the accuracy of quartz watches. 

Fluctuations in temperature can cause the quartz crystal to expand or contract, potentially leading to deviations in timekeeping. However, the thermal compensation feature in the 9F85 movement allows it to maintain exceptional accuracy even under varying environmental conditions. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch’s movement offers another unique function known as an independent hour hand. Rather than employing a traditional quick-set date mechanism, the hour hand can be set independently. This feature is particularly advantageous for travelers, as it makes switching between different time zones a seamless process. 

When you adjust the hour hand independently, the minute hand and seconds hand continue to operate unaffected, allowing you to easily set your watch to the local time without disrupting the timekeeping of the movement. It’s a thoughtful feature for those who like their watch to be exact to the second. 

Finally, the Calibre 9F85 is a 9-jewel movement that has been meticulously designed, built, and regulated in-house by Grand Seiko. This commitment to quality and craftsmanship is evident in the movement’s performance and longevity. Plus, with an impressive battery life of 3 to 4 years, you can enjoy the convenience of a reliable timepiece without the hassle of frequent battery changes. 

An Oyster-Like Bracelet 

For its strap, the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 opts for a full stainless steel bracelet. The three-row link architecture showcases staggered intermediate and differential link styles, reminiscent of the iconic Rolex Oyster, yet distinctly Grand Seiko in its execution. 

The polished link ends catch the light beautifully, while the unique bevelling along the link edges adds a touch of sophistication, effectively separating the link tops from the sides with a rounded finish. 

It’s clearly a strap largely designed for comfort and wearability, including removable links that are screw adjusted so you can easily make adjustments in your own home. There are also a couple of half links to help achieve that perfect size. However, it’s worth noting that there are no micro-adjustments available, which might limit immediate sizing options just slightly. 

The single-fold steel deployment clasp features a twin-trigger release mechanism, requiring you to press both buttons simultaneously to open the bracelet. This added security feature ensures that your watch remains securely fastened to your wrist, providing peace of mind during daily wear. The clasp also boasts the Grand Seiko logo embossed in relief, serving as a subtle yet stylish reminder of the craftsmanship behind the piece.

With a 20mm lug width and drilled lugs, changing straps on this watch is a breeze. This feature allows you to easily swap out the stainless steel bracelet for a variety of straps, enabling you to customize the look of your watch to suit your style or occasion. 

Given the dial’s striking deep navy blue color, the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 is truly a strap magnet, inviting you to explore endless possibilities in personalization.

On-Wrist Experience

As you can probably tell from the introduction, I have really enjoyed wearing the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch this past week. It’s the perfect blend of simplicity and elegance, offering a set of dimensions that well and truly cater to every wrist. With a case diameter of 40mm and a slender thickness of just 10.3mm, this watch offers a beautifully flat profile that sits comfortably on the skin. Its low-profile design is ideal for those with tighter shirt cuffs or anyone seeking an unobtrusive timepiece.

For me, though, most of the beauty of this watch lies in its simplicity. There’s an understated charm to it that makes it a pleasure to wear without any fuss. 

For those of us with smaller wrists, like my own at five-and-a-half inches, the SBGP013 feels substantial yet never overwhelming. It’s a watch I wouldn’t worry about wearing because it’s overpriced or overfussy in its design. Instead, it’s beautifully simple and feels well suited to any occasion. 

And if you have larger wrists than me, which is most likely the case, the watch will still maintain an elegant, dressy presence. If you have wrists of 8 inches or above, it might look a little small on you, so it could be worth exploring some of Grand Seiko’s larger models. That said, if you love the vintage look of a small watch, don’t let my words stop you.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch might just be one of the Japanese watch manufacturers most affordable models, retailing at an attractive price of $2,600. This makes it an ideal entry-level watch for those looking to experience the craftsmanship and elegance that Grand Seiko is renowned for without breaking the bank. Given its affordability, it’s not uncommon to find this model on the second-hand market for around $2,000, too.

The SBGP013 is a non-limited edition watch, but it has been part of Grand Seiko’s portfolio since its launch in 2020, so how long it will remain available is anyone’s guess. This uncertainty does add a layer of urgency, and if you are someone remotely tempted by this model, know that Grand Seiko does have a tendency to suddenly take even their best-selling entry-level models out of circulation with little to no notice.

If you are considering purchasing the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch, be sure to order from an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. This ensures that you’re receiving a genuine Grand Seiko watch complete with official paperwork and warranty, giving you the peace of mind you deserve for your investment.

Conclusion 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is an easy timepiece with which to fall in love. Because of its simplicity, there’s little you can fault. The quartz movement is one of the best on the market and allows for an incredibly compact set of case dimensions. 

The 10.3mm thickness is going to be a huge selling point for those of us who love a nice flat finish on the wrist. Plus, that deep navy dial, while overly simple for the likes of Grand Seiko, is still breathtaking and offers all the high levels of finishing and attention to detail the brand is best known for. This is an entry-level watch I’d recommend to anyone wanting to get started in the realm of luxury watchmaking.

The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is arguably one of the Japanese watchmaker’s most popular and iconic models. It’s a watch that embodies the elegance and craftsmanship that Grand Seiko is renowned for, featuring a charming dial design that mimics the beauty of freshly fallen snow. However, due to its high craftsmanship and limited availability, the Grand Seiko Snowflake is not as easily accessible as watch enthusiasts would like. 

And yet, a watch that bears a striking resemblance to the essence of the Snowflake, yet one that doesn’t carry its prestigious nickname, is the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269. 

This model showcases an equally refined aesthetic, enhanced functionality, and a snow-inspired dial texture, making it an appealing alternative for those seeking the sophistication of the Grand Seiko Snowflake without the scarcity associated with it.

The Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT Collection

For as long as I’ve been following the work of Grand Seiko, nature has played a significant role in their designs. There’s something rather beautiful about the thought of Grand Seiko designers simply looking out the windows of the company’s manufacturing facilities and drawing inspiration from the weather and flora found right outside their windows. 

The Grand Seiko Snowflake has always epitomized the brand’s love of nature, beautifully mirroring the purity of freshly fallen snow in the mountains surrounding the Grand Seiko factory in Shizukuishi. 

Other popular models worthy of mention are the Grand Seiko White Birch Shirakaba SLGH005, which has a breathtaking dial inspired by the texture and color of the birch trees found outside their studio, and the Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Omiwatari” SBGY007, which mimics the texture of Lake Susa when its water freezes during the winter. 

It’s clear that their connection to nature has become a signature aspect of the brand, leading to the creation of numerous models inspired by the textures and colors found in the natural world. 

More recently, Grand Seiko introduced the Four Seasons Collection, which again cements their commitment to nature-inspired design. The non-limited series draws inspiration from the different colors of Japan’s changing seasons. 

Whereas we simply measure the seasons in spring, summer, autumn, and winter, in Japanese culture, they divide the year into 24 smaller segments known as sekki, with each of the watches in the Four Seasons collection representing one of these sekki. 

The Grand Seiko Four Seasons collection was first introduced in 2019 and featured a quartet of time-and-date-only models with colorful and textured dials inspired by “Taisetsu”, the deep snow of winter, “Shunbun”, the vernal equinox, “Rikka”, early summer and “Shubun”, the autumnal equinox. 

Shortly after, Grand Seiko expanded the series further by adding more dial colors and additional GMT complication into this mix. And so, in 2021, the Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT collection was born. 

Once again, the watches in this collection represent four different sekki. The line-up includes the Hi-Beat 36000 powered “Shunbun” SBGJ251 and “Shosho SBGJ249, and two Spring Drive-powered watches called “Kanro” SBGE271 & “Toji” SBGE269. 

It’s the latter that I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this week, and with a dial inspired by the winter solstice, I have forgiven myself for originally thinking this was a Grand Seiko Snowflake when I first opened the box.

A Crisp-As-Snow Steel Case

Like all the models in the Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT collection, the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is slightly based on the original 62GS case from the 1960s. Much like the original, we have a soft, curved silhouette with a gently sloping bezel and refined lugs that beautifully highlight the watch’s polished surfaces. 

But as you’ll have probably noticed, the dimensions of this watch are a little more modern, coming in at 40.2mm wide and with a thickness of 14mm. It’s a well-sized watch that will suit most wrists. The lug-to-lug is 48.5mm, and if you count the end links, I measured it sitting at 51.2mm across. 

As for finishing, no expense is spared as usual from Grand Seiko. Much of the case is polished using a technique the Japanese watch brand calls Zaratsu polishing. It involves holding the stainless steel surface against a spinning tin plate using just the right amount of pressure and angle to create these beautiful mirror-like finishes. 

It’s a technique that takes about three years to learn, ensuring that only the most skilled artisans, known as Takumi, are entrusted with this meticulous process. It’s also a process typically reserved for small movement parts, so seeing it on a macro scale across an entire case is truly exceptional. Getting a fully hand-finished watch at this price is not a common sight. 

A few smaller portions of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s case are brushed, creating a visual of light play and contrasts. Other than its finishing, the most visually noticeable part of the case is the sapphire crystal glass. 

It’s one that is dramatically domed, adding to the watch’s 1960s-inspired heritage. It’s also this that adds to the larger 14mm thickness. Despite giving off the appearance of vintage plexiglass, the material is super scratch-resistant and treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface for legibility. Ultimately, you get the period feel without any of the compromises that come with real vintage watches. 

Completing the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s retro personality is the signed crown placed at 3 o’clock. Not quite an onion crown, but still relatively prominent in size and boasting a slightly domed and fully knurled exterior, it adds to the watch’s vintage charm while ensuring functionality. This screw-in crown enhances the watch’s water resistance, providing an impressive 100 meters of protection against the elements.

A Winter Solstice Dial

Easily, my favorite part of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is the dial. Nicknamed “Toji” after one of Japan’s twenty-four sekki that marks the winter solstice, the hammered silvered white texture has a beautiful, almost random grain inspired by the texture and color of snow as it shines in the sunlight of the winter solstice. 

It’s one of those dials you really need to see in person to appreciate, and no matter how hard I try, it’s impossible for me to find the words to describe its beauty accurately. 

The texture is larger and deeper than those seen on the popular Grand Seiko Snowflake watches but still has the same ethereal quality that instantly catches your eye. I love it, and I urge anyone reading this remotely tempted by its finish to go see this at your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer. 

For the hands and markers, Grand Seiko has once again elected hand-finishing for all the hardware. The dauphine-styled hour and minute hands are beautifully sharp with a combination of brushed and polished finishing, much like each hour marker, which is faceted with polished faces and brushed exteriors.

In contrast, the GMT hand is finished in a wonderful shade of rose gold to evoke the last rays of an evening sun. It’s a beautiful pop of color against an otherwise monochromatic dial and adds a touch of warmth and elegance to the overall aesthetic. We have the same color marking the GMT text at 6 o’clock, further tying together the dial’s design elements. 

The dial is also home to a 72-hour power reserve indicator, but Grand Seiko has ingeniously chosen to print it onto the dial’s textured surface rather than opting for a sunken scale. This decision preserves the watch’s clean lines and enhances the visual depth, allowing the textured background to play a prominent role in the overall design. 

The result is a more concise and subtle look that seamlessly integrates all the features without overwhelming the eye. It also brings the power reserve indicator in line with the printed black railway track found around the dial’s circumference. 

Another clever addition to the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s dial is the 24-hour scale. 

Compared to the SBGJ249 and SBGJ251 models in the same collection, the 24-hour markers have been moved to the minute track to help the dial breathe a bit more and not feel cluttered. We’re also treated to a box-shaped date window positioned at 3 o’clock and the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock.

A Spring Drive Movement

Alongside a completely hand-finished case and dial, we also have a movement that’s been built, tuned, and – when necessary – serviced entirely in-house by Grand Seiko. The movement in question is the Caliber 9R66, an automatic winding Spring Drive movement that represents one of Grand Seiko’s most innovative achievements. 

The Spring Drive combines the precision of a quartz movement with the mechanical beauty of a traditional automatic movement. Unlike conventional mechanical movements, which rely on a balance wheel and escapement, the Spring Drive caliber uses a unique “tri-synchro regulator” system. 

This regulates the movement by using a mainspring for power, just like a mechanical watch, but instead of an escapement, it uses an electromagnetic brake that works with a quartz crystal for precise timekeeping. 

This allows for incredible accuracy, with a deviation of only +/-1 seconds per day or +/- 15 seconds per month. It also delivers the signature smooth, gliding seconds hand that is famously a hallmark of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive watches. 

The Caliber 9R66 also features a GMT complication, allowing for the tracking of a second timezone, and boasts a 72-hour power reserve. There’s also a hacking seconds function, 30 jewels, and manual winding capability should you wish to see the power reserve indicator operate before your eyes. 

Turning the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch around, and you can admire the Spring Drive movement for yourself, including its handsomely striped oscillating rotor and bridges.

A Hybrid Bracelet

Completing the exterior of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is a classic full stainless steel bracelet. Its design is almost like a hybrid of a dress and sports bracelet. It has the beautiful, rolled flanks and the polished intermediates of a dress bracelet but then a sturdy three-row link architecture similarly styled to the Rolex Oyster bracelet. 

The surface of each link is brushed in the same direction as the bracelet falls, leading down towards a single-fold deployment clasp with twin trigger release. 

Sadly, the bracelet doesn’t come with any micro-adjustment, but we are given two half-links on either side to get a near-perfect fit. There’s also screw links to make adjustments easier and drilled lugs, so should you wish to swap out the strap for something different, that won’t be too much of a task. That said, Grand Seiko has elected a lug width of 19mm, which is a little awkward for finding replacement watch bands.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 is easily one of those “throw-on-and-go” watches. Its dimensions make it very wearable across a wide variety of wrist sizes. I’d recommend it for anyone with wrists as small as six inches and as large as eight inches. 

But please, if you don’t fall within that range, don’t let it put you off. If you have smaller wrists but love the oversized look, or if you have larger wrists and appreciate a more vintage vibe, this watch could still work beautifully for you. Plus, you can always swap out the metal bracelet for a leather strap to tone down its presence and make it feel a bit more understated. 

It is a thick watch, measuring 14mm tall, primarily due to the domed sapphire crystal. Unfortunately, this means it may not slide easily under the cuff of a dress shirt unless the cuffs are loose. Instead, it gives off more of a daily-beater or sports watch vibe, though it can still be worn for dressier occasions, thanks to that brilliant textured dial.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch retails brand new for $6,000. We always recommend purchasing your Grand Seiko watches through one of the brand’s authorized retailers, like Exquisite Timepieces. 

This way, you can sport your new timepiece knowing it’s the real deal and it’s arrived with all the official paperwork and warranty. You can also find this model on the second-hand market for around $4,500 if you’re working with a smaller budget. 

Thankfully, unlike so many of the Grand Seiko Snowflake watches, this winter-inspired release is a non-limited edition, and there’s plenty of availability at the time of writing this! But keep in mind this is a watch that has been out for three years now, so if it’s one you’ve fallen in love with, I recommend snapping it up as soon as you can, just in case Grand Seiko suddenly decides to discontinue it.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 is hands down one of the most beautiful Grand Seiko watches I’ve had the pleasure of trying on recently. If you’re someone who’s been captivated by the magic of the Grand Seiko Snowflake but hasn’t quite found the budget or the right model for you, this could be the perfect watch. The crisp white textured dial is absolutely breathtaking and really stands out as a centerpiece.

As I mentioned earlier, I strongly urge anyone who’s even somewhat interested to go see this watch in person. The way the light plays off the dial, the rich texture, and those subtle hand-finished elements are something you truly have to experience up close. I guarantee you’ll get lost in its details just as much as I did!

Back in 2020, traveling, either with or without a GMT watch strapped to your wrist, was beginning to feel like a distant memory for many of us. 

But in the years following the pandemic, the demand for GMT watches and the desire for a holiday returned with full force, putting brands like Grand Seiko right at the forefront of that need. Why, you ask? Because Grand Seiko does a superb GMT watch. That’s why today we’ll be looking at the reference SBGJ251 – the “Shunbun”.

What Is a GMT Watch?

Maybe you spend a lot of your working week at a desk organizing overseas conference calls and confusing greetings of “Good Morning” with “Good Evening” because, let’s face it, keeping track of multiple time zones across the world is not easy. 

Or maybe you travel frequently on business? Either way, there’s a good chance you’ll have pondered buying a watch for travel to assist with your organizational skills. Maybe you own several already, and you’re looking to expand your collection with another? 

Either way, travel watches are considered a necessity by many luxury watch enthusiasts since they’re multifunctional, and they look so stylish. 

There are different layouts and names used for travel watches, but the most common is the GMT. The name “GMT” derives from Greenwich Mean Time – the local mean time at Greenwich, London, by which other countries in the world use as a zero reference point to determine whether they are “X” amount of hours ahead or “X” amount of hours behind. 

This style of watch features a fourth hour hand that relays the time in a different location of the world. More often than not, this special hand is highlighted in a vibrant color or tipped with a triangular motif, enabling you to quickly distinguish it when looking at home time versus current time. 

Many GMT watches also feature a bi-color (or two-tone) bezel to help you differentiate between daytime and night-time hours in the 24-hour format, but not all, as we’ll soon see in the design of the Grand Seiko “Shunbun”.

In a nutshell, GMT watches are a very practical complication, owing to their immense popularity across the watch-collecting community. People love the distinctive style of these travel watches and the value they bring to the wrist on a functional level. 

The magic of reading a watch like the SBGJ251 is that you can read the time in two different time zones. You can check the time where you currently are and compare it to where you were at a glance. In all the brand’s main collections, you can find a GMT watch. 

Some examples include the sporty SBGJ237, with a striking blue and white 24-hour bezel, or the SBGJ021, with a deep rusty red dial and a peach-colored travel hand. Case in point, GMT watches come in many varieties, styles, and colors.   

The History of the SBGJ251 

To understand why the reference SBGJ251 is one of the most popular GMT watches to collect from Grand Seiko’s ever-evolving range, we need to look at the origins of the collection. Back in 2019, the watchmaker released four different but equally stunning designs, forming the entrancing Four Seasons watch collection, with dials inspired by nature itself. 

Anyone already familiar with Grand Seiko will know that the Japanese watchmaker has based many of its most elegant timepieces on elements taken from the natural surroundings of its prestigious Shinshu Watch Studio. 

In particular, the models from the Four Seasons collection focus on the changing seasons and the transitional periods between those months. The Grand Seiko SBGJ251 became part of this story.

The Four Seasons Collection

The Four Seasons collection first came into existence with the launch of those four very important models. Each one took direct inspiration from the four seasons of the year: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. 

For some background to this review, those models include the “Shunbun”, highlighted by the gentle pink-colored blossoms that fall from the cherry blossom tree into the water on a Spring morning. 

Also, the “Rikka” timepiece reflects the rich green shades of the luscious land across Japan when ripples of grass dance in the warm Summer winds. For Autumn, Grand Seiko chose the “Shubun” timepiece – a dial inspired by the dimming light of dusk and the arrival of a moonlit sky in The Fall during the autumnal equinox. The Grand Seiko “Taisetsu” was a timepiece that captivated its wearer with a dial evoking the silences of fallen, glistening slowly in Winter.

These models, released in 2019, are based on the 62GS design, but one of the most alluring features of those first four designs is that they follow the Japanese concept of “Sekki”. 

Rather than viewing the phases of the year in four set blocks, the models within the Four Seasons collection detail the 24 individual phases of the year – 6 phases for each quarter. 

The Elegance DNA

The Four Seasons models belong to a much larger design concept, Grand Seiko’s Elegance collection. While the Sports collection from Grand Seiko offers slightly more aggressive models (with sharp angles that capture the ever-popular steel sports watch aesthetic) and the Heritage collection honors some important historical landmarks for Grand Seiko – the Elegance collection is somewhat different. In this series, you can find classic dress watch styles, like the SBGJ251, that are perfect for formal occasions and special events.

That said, the Elegance line is also one of the most overlooked of Grand Seiko’s categories. For reasons unknown, they sometimes fly under the radar. Thanks to the level of finishing in one of these Grand Seiko watches and the superior materials used in every design, they also make for great daily beaters!  

Here, we arrive at the Grand Seiko “Shunbun” SBGJ251. A daily-wearer with dress watch aesthetics that is also a GMT, inspired by an important part of the year – the Spring Equinox.

My Review of the Grand Seiko SBGJ251 “Shunbun”

The Grand Seiko SBGJ251 “Shunbun” was released in 2021 and, in my opinion, perfectly sums up the spirit and elegance of the Four Seasons collection, taking influences from nature and re-writing the notion of the modern dress watch. The model is refined and classic but with a very functional advantage in that it combines a GMT complication. Here’s a more detailed look at the watch after some time spent handling it. 

The Case 

One thing I really like about this model is how Grand Seiko opts for a boxed sapphire crystal glass. What that does is it allows the hands to sit further into the crystal cavity and creates the impression, from some angles, that the hands are almost floating. This is a more costly finish than a standard glass fitting. 

While standard glass fronts may measure a thickness of around 2-3mm, a boxed sapphire arrangement will actually take up around double that much in thickness. Grand Seiko experts will require the skill of a CNC machine to shave and shape the crystal. Understandably, all of this adds to the manufacturing costs of a Grand Seiko, but simultaneously, it goes some way to achieving a unique and sought-after design.

One drawback of sapphire crystal compared to acrylic crystal, however, is that it doesn’t boast the same level of clarity. Like many luxury watch manufacturers, Grand Seiko remedies this by adding layers of anti-reflective technology to the surface of the glass, promising a clear and crisp view of the SBGJ251 model’s mesmerizing green dial. 

Now, let’s move on to the proportions of the watch. The stainless steel case of the SBGJ251 “Shunbun” measures a diameter of 39.5mm, making for a considerably compact size for those with small-ish wrists. The 30-meter water-resistant case has an unusually thick caseback, even for Grand Seiko standards, measuring 14.1mm thickness. 

I’ll talk a little more about how that impacts the wrists a little later on. But overall, this is a classically inspired, albeit modern watch, which Grand Seiko experts manage to balance perfectly. On the one hand, the shape and layout of the dial are traditional-looking, but on the other, those Zaratsu polished finishes evoke an unequivocally modern presence. 

Zaratsu polishing is a case finish that, in my opinion, supersedes a lot of the more common executions you see on timepieces of a similar price. Quite simply, the finishing is next level. This complicated and sophisticated polishing process is responsible for the razor-sharp, angular polishes that you see across the surface of this case. 

They elevate the design to a resolutely dressy style while at the same time reflecting and playing with light in a rather unique way. The technique takes its name from an old European machine called Sallaz and helps define all the flat, sharp edges of the case, not to mention adding a distortion-free mirror finish to the design. This is no easy skill to learn, often requiring a craftsman to undergo several years of extensive training before the art is properly mastered.   

Lastly, by flipping the watch over to reveal its underside, a sapphire exhibition feature reveals a beautifully manufactured and decorated movement. The in-house arranged Calibre 9S86 performs behind this window, showing off its fine finishes, including a customized Grand Seiko rotor. 

The Dial 

One thing I love about GMT watches is that you often get a twist of color in the design. Sometimes, it’s in the form of a bi-color bezel, like I mentioned earlier. Sometimes color is simply offered in the form of the GMT hand or the subtle lettering of the display. 

But in the case of the Grand Seiko “Shunbun” watch, the color of the dial is an entrancing deep green hue – an organic, almost-earthy green tone that fills the dial right up to the very perimeters. The color, once again, nods to the brand’s affinity to nature.

The location where Grand Seiko’s prestigious Shinshu Watch Studio is located is surrounded by layers of rich green foliage and mountainous landscapes, some mountains of which reach right up to 3,190 meters high, so you can imagine the blanket of green that bursts into abundant color during Springtime. 

Since the Hotaka mountain range that forms the backdrop to the watchmaking studio was formed as a result of volcanic activity, the peaks and slopes are sheer and abstract. The winds, moisture, and natural weather conditions have shaped and carved the structures that form these sharp ridges. 

They are exposed to harsh natural elements and the transitional seasons as they roll out across the land. For Grand Seiko, the turning of the seasons is an important source of inspiration for its many watches. The SBGJ251 puts considerable focus on the arrival of the Spring equinox, when Sakura blossoms decorate the land and cherry blossoms begin to bloom. 

It’s impossible to discuss the design of the Grand Seiko SBGJ251 and its functional, highly legible qualities without touching on the luscious green blooms of springtime. The watch represents the time in an indulgent pine green color. Interestingly, the matte finish of the dial looks very similar to the texture that Grand Seiko specialists used for the Snowflake watch. 

At the 12, 9, and 3 o’clock positions, the hour locations are represented in double batons. The faceted edges of the remaining markers take up residence around the rest of the dial, catching the light majestically under the watch’s protective sapphire crystal glass front, as do the dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands. 

The applied Grand Seiko logo and brand name can be seen at the top of the dial in a brushed silver color. It is these smaller details that give the SBGJ251 such character. The GMT scale proves particularly legible, too, including the 24-hour track in silver and the matching triangular markers that go with it. 

Suffice it to say, this is no plain green dial. The fine structure of the display changes nuances in the light depending on the angle from which you view it. Given the fact that a love for horology is often multi-faceted, the same can be said for features like this dial. The details begin to unravel themselves the more you admire them. 

The Movement 

Inside the case of the SBGJ251 lies the automatic Calibre 9S86 – a Hi-Beat movement that contains a total of 37 jewels and performs at a rate of 36,600 vibrations per hour. The Hi-Beat takes its name from the fact that it performs an impressive 10 beats per second. 

The movement traces its heritage back to the year 1968 when Grand Seiko released the first self-winding watch with this 10-beat technology. What set a new standard for the Hi-Beat movement, however, was the launch of the Calibre 9S85 almost forty years later. It promised a new level of durability, precision, and reliability from which the 9S86 took over. 

The PS86 Calibre also stores a power reserve of 55 hours once fully wound and promises an accuracy of –3 and +5 seconds per day. The beauty of this movement is that when you want to change the time zone, you can do so without jeopardizing the accuracy of the time. To simply set the time, pull the crown out to one notch and adjust the hour hand. 

The seconds hand will continue to perform without interruption. The Hi-Beat maintains exceptional precision, both in the essence of timekeeping and in the form of the added hour 24-hour hand.

The Strap 

Pairing any travel watch with a stainless steel bracelet will give it a classic and understated look, and that’s certainly what Grand Seiko was going for when designing this model. The 5-link design has a matte finish on the outer links, while brushed finishes have been applied to the central links.

The simple foldable clasp, manufactured in-house by Grand Seiko, has pushers but, unfortunately, no micro-adjustment system. Maybe it would have been a nice feature for GS to incorporate. Still, it’s not a deal breaker. 

How It Wears

Putting the Grand Seiko “Shunbun” reference SBGJ251 on the wrist for the first time will give you an instant feeling of refinement and luxury. After all, these are qualities that the Japanese brand became renowned for during the 1960s. 

Even so, as refined as it may be, this watch is perfect for wearing every day of the week, thanks to its robust, solid-feeling stainless steel bracelet. It’s also dressy enough to pair with formal attire or something smarter in the evening.

I already outlined the dimensions of the watch earlier, but one element that may take a little time to get used to is the back of the case. The combination of the bulbous back and the kettlebell bulge at the side of the case does make for thicker wear on the wrist. 

This is an interesting concept since Grand Seiko watches tend to be geared towards slimmer, ergonomically-fitting timepieces. In some ways, the bulge of the case and underside nods to a touch of nostalgia, capturing a feel of sporty dress watches from yesteryear.

The GMT feature is a super handy complication that, even at a glance, will provide you instantly with the same at home and in your current location. The main sword-shaped hands and the baton indexes are clear and ultra-legible, enhancing the watch’s wearability factor. At the same time, the GMT hand pointing to the silver 24-hour track is offered up willingly, thanks to the peach-colored tones of the arrow-tipped hand.

The lugs of the SBGJ251 have a downward curvature that turns into the bracelet as they hug the shape of the wrist. I also like the mixture of polished and brushed finishes on the links and the GS-engraved deposit clasp, complete with a milled finish.

The Price

The Grand Seiko “Shunbun” watch reference SBGJ251 comprises a mechanical engine that beats at 36,600 oscillations per hour. That alone is no mean feat, but when you think about the whole package; the level of case finishing, the striking green dial, and the well-executed components of the display – these compounding features reflect a very reasonable price tag of $6,800 on authorized dealers like Exquisite Timepieces.

For $6k and under, you can drop on a pretty neat watch, don’t get me wrong. There are hundreds of options out there. Some that spring to mind are the Omega Seamaster, the Breitling Navitimer, and the Baume et Mercier Clifton, for example. (All these revered names have specialized in the classic sports watch.) 

But when it comes to an in-house movement and additional complications like the GMT, and even those signature Zaratsu polished elements – Grand Seiko, for me, wins hands down.

Final Thoughts

My final thoughts on the Grand Seiko SBGJ251 are that this is a unique design that sits somewhere in between sporty and dressy. You can take this watch from boardroom to plane without ever having to worry whether it will clash with anything you’re wearing. 

The deep muted green tones of the dial, nature-inspired as they may be, are also universally appealing and have been combined with some of Grand Seiko’s finest cutting-edge timekeeping technology to create a perfect package of functionality, accuracy, and reliability.

If you consider yourself a fan of Grand Seiko watches, there is no disputing that you’ll have admired the tapestry of design elements, techniques, and traditional processes that the watchmakers of this company endure to create such spectacular creations. 

But have you ever really, I mean really, taken the time to immerse yourself in Grand Seiko’s philosophy – the spirit of Takumi? It’s where the seeds are sown for every innovation, including the SBGK017. The beating hearts (the movements) of these timepieces, created under the Takumi practice, are all inspired by the Nature of Time and, as the namesake suggests, take cues from nature around us.

The History of the SBGK017

Grand Seiko released the SBGK017 in 2022 as part of its Elegance Collection. It takes inspiration from Nanbu Tekki ironware. This traditional style of metalwork originated from the Iwate District during Japan’s Edo period. 

The watch belongs to a series renowned for its ornate dials and elevating Zaratsu polishing technique. In this article, we’re going to delve into the finer details of the SBGK017. First, let’s look at how this classic dress watch came to be.  

Grand Seiko’s penchant for creating highly sophisticated, technical, and beautiful timepieces originates from Japan’s unwavering obsession to compete with Western watchmakers. It was this innate drive that Grand Seiko owes its success to. 

Japan had been working towards becoming more independent, undergoing rapid industrialization following the Meiji Restoration of 1868. Its approach to watchmaking was gradual and subtle up until World War II. Before then, the Swiss held a 50% share of the global watch market and were supplying almost 70% of watch components to Japan.

Swiss dominance continued throughout the Second World War, while many other countries focused on war efforts. After the war, Japan focussed on researching Swiss watchmaking techniques and exploring the tools, methods, and machinery the country used in the art and practice of quintessential Haute Horlogerie. 

During this time, the founder of Seiko, Kintaro Hattori, opened two factories that would compete internally with one another. One produced the King Seiko model. The other manufactured the Grand Seiko.

This inter-brand rivalry would eventually culminate in both companies achieving the gold standard in most chronometer trials rolled out across Switzerland. Seiko became a serious contender in manufacturing accurate, technically sophisticated, yet classical-looking watches, producing innovations on par with the Swiss. The company’s quartz technology arrived during the 1960s, revolutionizing the future of watchmaking.

Catastrophically, the Swiss Market dropped in shares from 40% to 10% by the 1980s, while Japanese brands, including Casio and Citizen, soared to success. 

The market for affordable digital wristwatches had exploded, with LEDs that gave way to LCD technology, promising longer battery life than ever before. However, the Japanese market stagnated in the 1990s due to the rise of Chinese production. To diversify its higher-end offerings, Grand Seiko re-launched itself in the late 2000s.

In 2017, it would become a fully independent sub-brand. Its focus remained to create the “ideal watch” – a symbol of refinement and technical elegance. This came just a year after the brand launched its first black ceramic watch and the 8-day power reserve Spring Drive movement. The Grand Seiko name moved from 6 o’clock to the very top of the dial, symbolizing its journey to full independence.

Subsequently, Grand Seiko watches became more elevated, more refined, and more superior. They began featuring beautiful hand-engraved dials, jewellery-like masterpieces, and models that boasted movements that were more precise and powerful than ever before.

However, it was in 2019 when Grand Seiko watches gained a new identity. The Elegance Collection introduced a new design direction for the manufacturer. 

These models promised the strength and resilience to be worn every day but the grace and finesse to bring sophistication to every eventuality. Despite bridging the gap between classic and contemporary, some models pay homage to milestone models from the brand’s past.

Over the last few years, the collection has expanded to accommodate some very special timepieces that demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship. Watches from this collection lean into the dressier side of watchmaking. 

The dials are free from any intricate complications, instead offering simpler features like a date or GMT function. The displays are also clean and classic, lending to a very universal palette.

It makes sense that the only naysayers of the Grand Seiko name are those who tend to have had very little time on the wrist with them. I dare say that to fully appreciate the palpable beauty of a watch from the Elegance Collection like the SBGK017; one does have to shake hands with the timepiece and really get to know it. 

Upon doing so, you’ll quickly come to realize that Grand Seiko watches are every bit as beautiful as collectors say they are. The Elegance Collection SBGK017 watch is most deserving of this reputation and is no exception to the rule, as you’re about to find out.

The Case

Let’s get the basics out of the way first…

The Proportions

The Grand Seiko SBGK017 has a diameter of 39mm and a case depth of 11.6mm. The lug-to-lug measurement of the case is 44mm, and the watch is also 30-meter water resistant. It takes on the style of those watches belonging to the brand’s Thin Dress Series with a relatively slim profile, enabling it to slip easily under the cuff of a shirt. 

Its slim case will favor the watch well when it comes to pairing it with elegant evening attire or an office suit. The model features an exhibition caseback that grants a clear view of the working movement inside (we’ll get to that bit later), along with a non-screw-down crown.

Here’s where the case design gets interesting, however. The underside of the case is concave in shape, allowing the watch to sit closer to the skin. Grand Seiko specialists design this case with comfort in mind. 

Subtle, discreet details like this really do go a long way to achieving a more ergonomic fit for everyday wear. Unlike, say, the 44GS watches, for example – this model is anything but aggressive and sharp. Instead, its soft and flowing curves bring about an organic structure, allowing it to wrap nicely around the smaller-than-average male wrist.

The Zaratsu Case Polish

If you’ve spent a considerable amount of time with Grand Seiko watches before, you’ll know that the Zaratsu polishing technique is an exclusive and highly distinguishable feature of the famous Japanese brand’s watches. But this signature style didn’t just come overnight. It took the brand several years to research, trialing many different techniques until this exquisite and unique-looking execution was finally mastered. 

By perfecting the technique of Zaratsu polishing, Grand Seiko experts were able to achieve flat, smooth surfaces without any undesirable light distortion. Rather than softening the angle of the ridge that forms where two planes meet, GS craftsmen shelved the idea of buffing and instead turned to the skill of Zaratsu. 

Despite the refinement of CNC machining and cold forging, the completion of a Grand Seiko case still requires the expert skills of artisans who can sand a case, buff it until it’s smooth, and then finish it with the Zaratsu polish. As you can imagine, not everyone can be trusted with such a role.

The word “Zaratsu” takes its name from the company that owned the machinery that created this magnificent case finish. The execution is achieved by holding a moving surface firmly while facing it head-on towards a rotating disc clad with sandpaper. The result is an extraordinarily smooth surface. 

To bring the surface up to a mirror-polished effect, a final buffing is applied to the metal. The complexity of this process is often underestimated by enthusiasts. While Zaratsu polishing gives the watch a distinctive edge over other high-end competitors, there are hurdles to overcome. 

While one section may be polished beautifully, the left and right sides of the case may be uneven. The only way to tackle the problem is to increase the pressure that holds the surface against the wheel while checking the entire piece over.  It’s both an art form and a responsibility that only a few can master.

The Glass and Crown

The double-domed sapphire crystal in this Grand Seiko SBGK017 is quite pronounced. It looks raised and box-like, capturing a subtle vintage charm. Combined with the lug-to-lug measurement and a depth of nearly 12mm, the glass undoubtedly contributes to these crowd-pleasing proportions. 

One particular feature that collectors seem to love about this watch is the refinements of the winding crown. When winding up the watch, the crown stamped with the iconic Seiko logo is butter-smooth under the fingertips, adding to that all-important premium feel. A directional brushing on the sides of the case was mixed with the mirror-polished technique, too. 

You may not be able to venture into deep waters with this 30-meter water-resistant watch, but this is not a style you’ll likely want to do that with. Nevertheless, Grand Seiko experts do a superb job of combining all the features you need in a dressy, all-around daily beater.

The Dial

The dial is probably where this Grand Seiko watch differentiates itself the most when compared to other designs in the collection. The dial has become the signature feature of some of the most highly desirable GS watches, and many from this series are inspired by nature. Take the iconic snowflake-inspired dials, those that mimic falling blossoms or those that feature organic, earthy colors, for example.

There is a concentric and almost patisserie-like style to this dial. The pattern, which starts large at the periphery of the dial, gets gradually smaller as the layers work toward the center of the display. The effect is almost spiral-like. 

The multi-faceted markers also taper. And this is not a dial you’d instantly associate with nature because, this time, Grand Seiko doesn’t draw inspiration from the great outdoors. Instead, the dial is inspired by the textures found in the traditional Japanese art of Nanbu Tekki.

Nanbu Tekki is an age-old form of ironwork, common from the 1600s right through to the 1800s. As this is a manmade artform, rather than inspiration taken from nature, it makes for a particularly unique dial from Grand Seiko. This dial represents an age of classicism, which is very fitting considering the collection it belongs to. 

The textured dial is finished with facetted hands and a tapering needle-like hand for the power reserve indicator. As mentioned, the small seconds feature resides at 9 o’clock, giving more space and focus to the simple timekeeping elements of the dial.  

Upon looking even closer at the dial, I noticed that the tip of the minute hand has a slight curvature to comply with the curve of the dial. This cleverly rids the dial of any distortion when looking in at it from the side. This is a really nice touch because it’s not a design feature we see in many modern watches today.

The Movement 

The Calibre 9S63 was produced in 2019 as part of the 9S series, constituting a tried and tested movement that has proved incredibly reliable over the years. The mechanical manual movement has an impressive 72-hour power reserve once fully wound, enabling it to keep perfect time when you’re alternating the watch with other favorites in your collection. 

With an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day, the movement comprises 33 jewels for a smooth performance and has undergone an extensive regulation process that goes far beyond the standards we associate with those outside the METAS testing institute. 

The arrival of the Calibre 9S63 was an important one since it marked the first update within the 9S series in terms of a non-Spring Drive Calibre in 8 years. The reason for the wait stemmed from a complete overhaul of the movement and a redesign. 

It featured a small second sub-dial at 9 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Now, with 20% more components than before, this new generation 9S movement is a complete in-house effort. 

Painstaking efforts have been made to execute this movement. Even the grooves between each gear tooth have been polished by a watchmaker, one by one, to avoid friction. Fabricated parts of the movement are engineered by Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) technology, and tolerances of one-thousandth of a millimeter are tested and approved before the movement is fitted to the heart of the SBGK017.

The Bracelet 

Grand Seiko equips the SBGK017 model with a stylish 9-link bracelet that almost leans into Milanese bracelet territory. The links, although quite elongated, are packed tight into the design, enabling you to get a snug fit against the wrist despite the absence of a micro-adjustment feature. 

This model also comes with an additional black alligator leather strap and a stainless steel buckle to match the case design. The Seiko logo has been engraved into the fastening, doubling up as a symbol of authenticity and quality craftsmanship. 

The bracelet begins at 19mm at the lug end and then slowly transitions into a slightly slimmer clasp end, measuring in at 18mm. Tapering bracelets do, of course, create the impression of a smaller and more manageable fit on the wrist. Those collectors with wrists measuring on the smaller side will appreciate this element of the bracelet’s design.

As with every high-end purchase, a collector is going to want all the little trimmings that come with a special purchase like this, and Grand Seiko knows this. The manufacturer includes the paperwork outlining the regulations of the watch, which I think is a really nice touch. Of course, you also get the instructions booklet and the warranty certificate, along with a genuine Grand Seiko presentation box to keep the watch safe.

How does it wear?

You’ll recall that earlier in this review, I mentioned that the SBGK017 belongs to the Thin Dress Series of the Evolution 9 concept. This collection launched back in 2019 with an intentional and purposeful design language – to wear at every opportunity. So, it’s not like these dress watches should be reserved for the finest of occasions. Moreover, the watch makes every occasion feel the finest.

As I also mentioned, the 39mm case is compact, which lends itself well to smaller-wristed males, as does the tapering bezel. The domed dial and curving minute hand, not to mention the concave underside of the case, all make for a comfortable and ergonomic fit on the wrist.

Price and Availability

If you love the impeccable finishing on a Grand Seiko watch as much as I do, you’ll agree that watches like this are every bit worth their price tag. You’ll struggle to find a similar case finishing for this price category elsewhere on the market. 

The watch has a richness and a depth to it that feels high-end, but when you compare it with some more expensive mechanical options out there, the level of finishing is much more superior. The Grand Seiko SBGK017 is priced at $8,900, which, if you ask me, is hard to argue with.

Conclusion 

The Grand Seiko SBGK017 is a well-executed and truly great design, especially if you’re looking for a brand that will give you that high-end feel but without the five-figure price tag.

The refined movement, with components made from anti-shock and anti-magnetic alloys, is resistant to magnetic damage and able to deliver incredible accuracy inside slim proportions. The Zaratsu polishing and brushing techniques are a nice blend. 

They add depth to the design, not to mention a high-end feel. The classic black dial is sure to pair well with all attire, and the case itself is geared towards those who struggle with larger watches sitting within the 41mm+ category.

On the whole, this is another stellar example of Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection DNA. Ideal for wearing as a sophisticated companion with evening attire, you also have the chance to change the metal band over to something more casual from Grand Seiko’s strap range or, indeed, the additional black alligator leather strap it comes with.