Author: Alex DeVane

Dials are undoubtedly the focal point for any watch. They’re engineered to capture the buyer’s attention, flaunting all the aesthetical prowess the maker chooses to put on display. Mechanics aside, sometimes dials are the make-or-break decision when it comes to purchasing a watch. 

Buyers tend to gravitate to what suits them, whether that be bold and flamboyant or stylish and elegant. Variety is the name of the game. Watch-makers know what their buyers want, and they know the significance of a dial’s color. So many master watchmakers incorporate philosophical themes or stoic symbolism in their pieces. 

At its core, this design choice starts with the dial color. Watches meant to mimic the ocean tend to have blue dials, and ones meant to mirror freshly fallen snow in a forest tend to be white. The color scheme of a dial preaches more than just aesthetical literacy. It communicates the message the artist is trying to relay through their creation. 

As we explore how each color portrays that message to their wearer, keep in mind that everyone’s preferences differ. What stands out to you may not stand out to someone else. The beauty in diversity is that—whether you realize it or not—everyone has a piece out there that speaks to them. 

The Meaning Behind Different Watch Dial Colors

Think of watch dials as a painter’s canvas. Artists love to preach to their audience in ways that often go unnoticed. A watch dial essentially follows the same principle. Different colors mean different things, and they communicate in ways that many wearers miss. 

Black  

Black represents power, professionalism, strength, and quiet confidence. It’s one of the first classical dial colors, and its versatility suits any formal occasion and casual wear. Having a black dial makes it easier to tell the time, as black dials are almost always accompanied by bright hands that are extremely legible. 

Black dials have a sharp sense of commanding authority, as if the wearer knows they are in charge but is too humble to say so. Black dials tend to accompany more modern pieces, encouraging a revolutionary sense of innovation and acting as a mark of the modern age.  

Blue

Blue signifies reliability, stability, inspiration, and wisdom. There is an intelligent tone that blue dials carry. They are calming, look elegant and sharp, and are slightly more relaxed than black, white, or silver dials. Watchmakers will typically accompany the color blue with themes of the ocean or sky, modeling the shade after one of the two to give the wearer a story to go with their piece. 

Being a primary color, blue goes well with many outfits, making it one of the most popular watch dial colors out there. Often regarded as a newer dial shade, it caught watchmakers’ and enthusiasts’ eyes very quickly with its charm, cementing itself as a timeless color that can signify so much with such a small canvas. 

White 

White dials represent elegance, purity, and simplicity. Being universally resounding for all types of jewelry, clothing, accessories, and other types, white signifies versatility and a tranquil aesthetic for anything it accompanies. 

Because it’s a neutral color, white is a popular choice for watch dials as it accompanies almost any outfit and is fit to wear in any environment. A crisp, clean, legible view comes at a cost, however. 

Like anything colored white, stains or blemishes (or, in this case, scratches or smudges) are extremely noticeable. This could deter some from choosing a white dial, but if you are mindful of the way you treat your piece, then I think you will appreciate the iconic aesthetic a white dial brings. 

Silver 

Silver dials represent a wide variety. Some associate it with power and authority, while others view it as a symbol of the unknown. It is well regarded as being a very high-end color, which is why it usually accompanies the more pricey pieces. 

Like white, it is very legible and sleek, regarded as another one of the most popular dial colors for its simple yet beautiful look. Silver dials perfectly contrast the hands, making them stand out more than other colors and giving them a beautiful backdrop that displays the beauty of both designs. 

Gold

Gold dials represent wealth and opulence. Having a watch made of real gold is one of the most expensive varieties out there. Too much can look tacky, but the right amount can serve for a unique aesthetic that fits the look you’re trying to create. 

A well-made gold dial typically applies a thin layer of gold to the surface to give it a warm glow. Yes, bold, but not too bold to overwhelm the piece and make it look flashy. There is a timeless sense of elegance that comes from a gold dial as they often signify the rich history of the piece they accompany. 

A “gold watch” is an iconic statement in and of itself, which allures buyers just from the name alone, and while not necessarily everyone’s cup of tea, gold dials definitely have a wide variety of buyers that will eagerly pay for the bold look. 

Red 

Red dials represent a unique energy and a strong sense of courage and confidence. They are bold and full of flavor. Being one of the brightest dial colors, they will undoubtedly attract eyes, which is what wearers want. 

Red represents emotions like love, anger, and passion, and those same emotions are often incorporated into the pieces, invoking a sense of pride in the wearer as they wear their emotions on their wrist. Silver hands and indices pair really nicely with a red dial, bringing out the boldness as they complement each other. Buyers who love bold will be drawn to red. 

Green

Green symbolizes hope or renewal. Often accompanied by themes of spring, green dials instill a calming sense in the wearer, almost encouraging you to acknowledge the beauty of nature as you admire your piece. 

Dark greens are very stylish, giving a sleek and elegant aesthetic, while lighter greens are bolder and invoke stronger emotions. Both preach the same message: that there is tremendous beauty in change and that sometimes uncertainty can lead to something greater than we could have ever imagined. 

Orange

Orange represents a sense of happiness. It is a warm color and strikes a feeling of enthusiasm in its wearer. Being another bold, bright color, it’s very expressive with its emotions, often holding nothing back. Orange dials—like red—are designed to capture the energy of their wearer, incorporating the realism of human nature while also maintaining the artistic style. 

Due to its unique nature and look, it’s a very difficult color to match your wardrobe. If you are interested in purchasing an orange dial, be sure to plan accordingly and wear outfits that compliment the bold nature of your watch. 

Yellow

Like red and orange, yellow symbolizes the purest of human emotion. Joy, sunlight, warmth, and comfort are all felt when gazing upon a yellow dial. Arguably, it is one of the boldest choices in watch-wear and one of the rarest as well. If you are looking for something that will make your wrist pop, then look no further. Yellow dials attract eyes far and wide, and on bright, sunny days, they match the tone of the weather extremely well. 

The bright nature, as you would expect, makes them very hard to match with. You might be better off just accepting that your wrist is in a realm of its own should you decide to wear a yellow watch. Although I’m sure if you dive into the deepest part of your wardrobe, you’ll be able to style an outfit around your wrist-wear, it will take much longer than any other color. 

Which Dial Colors Are Most Popular?

The most popular colors tend to be the more simplistic ones. Black is a classic choice that many would say is the undisputed most popular color. Black goes with everything; it’s not too bold or tacky, and it brings out the watch’s other features to ensure that the whole piece looks spectacular on your wrist. 

White and silver go hand in hand and would be considered by others to be the most popular choice for the same reasons as black. It boils down to preference at that point. White and silver—in my opinion—convey their themes more effectively than a black watch, which gives them a few extra points. Also, a white and silver dial combined with a titanium bracelet and case back is one of my favorite combinations that captures everything I love about finely-tuned timepieces. 

With all that being said, my personal favorite dial color is blue. The tone that a blue dial sets over the piece is unmatched. It’s rich, sleek, elegant, but not too overbearing. It’s just as popular as black, white, and silver but also aesthetically outperforms them at every turn. 

I think it perfectly matches with just about anything in your wardrobe, highlighting even the most low-key outfits and elevating your style quite noticeably. A blue dial paired with a blue bezel simply looks divine. I could go on and on about why blue is my favorite, but I frankly don’t know if I have enough room on the page. 

Which Dial Color Is Best for You?

If you are looking for bold, energetic pieces, lighter colors like red, orange, and yellow are right up your alley. They typically match the wearer’s energy and can be worn on brighter days so that you can experience the full range of their aesthetic prowess. 

White, silver, black, and blue—as mentioned before—are the most popular colors. They go with just about anything. Whether you’re at a business party, a formal occasion, or just hanging out with friends, those colors will suit your every need and elevate casual and dressier outfits. 

Obviously, you need to match your style according to the color, but it should prove to be quite simple as the colors’ most notable feature would be how easy they are to compliment other aspects of your outfit. 

Green and gold can fit into either category. Depending on the shade and how you style them, they could either look bold and vibrant, displaying all of the pristine features, or they can be more relaxed and sleek as you intentionally tone them down to deliver a more unique aesthetic. 

I would say that these two colors are the more “wild card” choices as it more heavily depends on how the wearer utilizes them rather than how the watchmaker intended them to be utilized. 

Conclusion

Dials are the focal point of your piece. You want to be sure that the one you choose effectively emulates your personal style and tone. Colors are the means by which dials communicate. Everyone’s interpretation of art can differ. That’s why it’s essential that you choose a color you understand and one that understands you. Don’t let what’s “popular” guide your way of thinking. You are the only one who knows your style and the only one who can effectively elevate your wear by choosing a piece that encapsulates all of your best features. 

Any well-made watch would be a proficient choice. It’s evident when artists take themselves seriously, and the level of detail watchmakers commit themselves to speaks volumes about their characters and their testimonies as artists. Purchase pieces from makers you trust, and be sure to appreciate the high level of effort and artistic brilliance that goes into every piece.

It seems that every time I talk about Grand Seiko, I spend all my time raving about their elegance and innovation, praising them for their craftsmanship and attention to detail. They have managed to capture the essence of watchmaking and seem to personally inject whatever secrets they hold into each and every piece. The Grand Seiko SLGW003 is a striking testament to this philosophy. 

Part of the Evolution 9 collection, the SLGW003 is a relatively newer entry to the iconic family that houses so many recognizable names. It comes equipped with the Grand Seiko Caliber 9SA4, the first manual-winding 36,000 vph mechanical movement Grand Seiko has created in nearly 50 years. 

They incorporate the manual design to forge a deeper connection between the watch and the wearer, claiming that the ritual winding of a watch is one of life’s pleasures. In the 60s and 70s, Seiko produced numerous manually wound pieces, attempting to deliver higher precision to each design. 

This watch signifies their grand return to these more old-fashioned pieces, but not without improving upon the original design, displaying their drive to always increase their level of craftsmanship. 

Wrapped in a shroud of sophistication with the advanced technology of the modern age, the SLGW003 delivers on all fronts, ensuring that the wearer looks their best while being easy to read, wind, and wear. 

History

Released in 2021, the Grand Seiko SLGW003 immediately made a name for itself among the Evolution 9 collection. Drawing inspiration from Japan’s rich cultural heritage and birch forests that reside near the Grand Seiko headquarters, this watch embodies the striking beauty of Japanese nature, as well as the detail-oriented precision of Japanese society. 

Taking inspiration from the old manually wound 10-beat designs from the ’60s and ’70s, this watch could be considered both a throwback and a step forward. It incorporates old themes and new functions that excel in practicality and leave the wearer in awe of its mechanical prowess.

Case 

Titanium cases are among my favorite materials. Lightweight, sleek, luminescent, and subtle, they satisfy every desire and check every box when it comes to the beauty of your pieces’ case. Grand Seiko’s hard titanium comes with all the benefits of regular titanium, incorporating a beautiful Zaratsu polishing that only adds to the beauty. 

The diameter is 38.6mm, the lug-to-lug is 45.0mm, and the thickness is 9.95mm, measuring very thin all across the board. The contorted lugs help with wearability and give it an even slimmer aesthetic, which will appeal to many of you who prefer the sleeker designs. 

The Zaratsu finish accompanies both the inner crease and the bezel, while matte finishing accompanies the sides of the case. The sapphire crystal protects the dial while rising slightly above the rest of the case due to it being slightly domed. The casing has been made with a low center of gravity to ensure that it still sits securely on your wrist, no matter how light it is. 

The crown protrudes from the three positions, proudly embroidered with the GS logo. And when you turn the case around, you are met with the welcomed surprise of an open case-back so that you can view the mechanical integrity of the piece.

The case exemplifies an understated charm, reinforcing the significance of the watch’s other features while also catching the wearer’s eye with its beautiful titanium elegance. Successfully designed casing exists for two significant reasons: First, it has to look aesthetically pleasing by itself, but the most important reason is that it has to elevate everything around it. 

The beauty of the watch starts with the casing. It serves as a foundation around which the other features center themselves. Grand Seiko has delivered an effective foundation and, by using its staggering beauty, has crafted one of its most impressive pieces yet.

Dial

The dial is highly textured with a unique white birch tree bark style that is unique to this series. While at first, it may seem familiar, as the SLGH005 appears very similar to the Grand Seiko SLGW003, the white birch pattern has far more textures on the SLGW003, and the pattern is moving horizontally on the SLGW003 as opposed to vertically on the SLGH005. 

The bezel seems to focus on giving the watch a dressier appeal as the textures breathe an unprecedented style of luxury and pristine craftsmanship that is far more detailed than anything we’ve seen before. 

Other than the Grand Seiko logo and the text at 6 o’clock, there are no complications in the dial, ensuring that the wearer is satisfied with the symmetry and cleanliness that the dial seeks to emulate.  

The indices are broad and easy to read, taking the common shape of the Series 9 style. They are polished to perfection and give a beautiful complementary look to the backdrop of the dial, standing out from the birch-wood background in an elevated manner. 

The same goes for the hands. When everything on the dial is the same color, it tends to blend together. This piece brings out a stark boldness to each feature while keeping them all the same shade. Nothing seems out of place or distracting. The hands are elegant and slender, which goes well with the size of the piece itself. 

This is one of the cleanest dials we’ve seen from Grand Seiko, and it is among my personal favorites. The birch-wood texture’s underlying simplicity and the titanium’s elegance seem to be a combination sent from heaven to give us one of the most extraordinary designs. The removal of a date window does many favors for the integrity of the dial as well. 

Part of the beauty comes from the symmetry, and I feel like if you tried to fit anything else in the dial, then it would undermine the original vision. Skilled watchmakers know when to restrain themselves. 

Sometimes, less is more, and Grand Seiko seemed to go into this project with that idea in mind. I would say it worked very well for them, and I’m eager to see if they replicate this design choice in any future pieces. 

Movement

Engineered with the sole purpose of providing the ultimate hand-winding experience, the Caliber 9SA4 comes with a pleasing winding sound, demonstrating its craftsmanship and quality. It has a high frequency of 10 vibrations per second, which accounts for the 80 hours of power reserve. 

This is the first hand-wound, high-beat movement that Grand Seiko has produced in more than 50 years, and given how they treat the rest of their works, you can be sure that the 9SA4 has been finely tuned and perfected with the same attention to detail as all of their other pieces. 

Grand Seiko has rearranged the gear train and redesigned many parts, ensuring that the Caliber 9SA4 achieves a power reserve of 80 hours with 15 percent fewer crown rotations than the Caliber 9SA5. 

This plays a role in the slimness of the watch and explains how a manual watch can achieve these kinds of numbers. It is also extremely accurate, with a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a normal usage accuracy of +8 to -1 seconds per day. 

On a day-to-day basis, this watch is going to provide you with everything you need and more. An 80-hour power reserve from a manual is quite the treat, and the luxury it emits while you wind it is a nice little bonus feature that wearers can enjoy. The beauty of the 9SA4 cannot be understated. 

With 47 jewels, it shines from the open case back and adds to the aesthetic of the entire piece. Watching it subtly rotate and shift presents another theme to the design. Grand Grand Seiko claims that manual watches help us feel more attached to our pieces and help us appreciate the passing of time as we observe the mechanical power. 

The open case back was a necessary choice to ensure that connection is felt while it is being worn. As time passes, the wearer can appreciate that this watch will never change and that with every turn of the crown, you can be sure that the integrity of the watch never falters.

Straps

The strap is black and made out of crocodile leather with matched stitching and a three-fold clasp. It feels very premium and supple, almost as if it’s already been worn in. This could be a pro or a con, depending on whether or not you appreciate a more natural feel on your wrist or you want to wear the strap yourself. 

The light reflects very solemnly off the black leather, giving it a glare that can either complement the whiteness of the dial or contrast it due to its dark natural colors. Both of these looks are very aesthetically pleasing in their own right, but I prefer the subtle compliments that the lighter shade gives. One mark of a good strap is whether or not it can transform when the light hits it just right. 

It can completely change the piece’s overall look in both positive and negative ways. This is undoubtedly a positive, as the birch texture of the dial fits comfortably in between the two glowing sides of the leathery straps. 

You most likely won’t want to change this beautiful strap, but the drilled lugs and 20mm lug width will make the process seamless. This piece benefits greatly from a leather strap because the casing and the dial reflect a sleeker, more reserved look. The watch itself is very thin, and I feel a steel bracelet would appear disproportionate compared to the rest of the watch. 

The crocodile leather is one material that has grown on me. I was hesitant about complimenting it when I first saw it, but this piece has single-handedly made me appreciate what can be done with the simple material. The texture is beautiful, comfortable, easy to swap, and frankly doesn’t miss. 

On-Wrist Experience

The dimensions make the watch very suitable for a wide variety of wrists, extending from as low as 6 inches to as high as about 7.5 inches or more. You won’t run into many issues fitting the watch. 

Thanks to the titanium, it feels very smooth and lightweight compared to a stainless steel watch, weighing just enough to remind you that it’s still on your wrist while not being overly heavy to the point of discomfort. Sleekly polished and finished to perfection, the titanium shines like glass, while the soft curved lugs ensure a snug fit.

The minimalist dial contributes to the overall sense of refinement, and the leather strap has the unique feel of molding to your wrist over time, almost as if it was made specifically for the individual wearer. The small nature makes it easy to slide under cuffs, which may be an advantage for those of you who prefer that style. 

Although I found that wearing this piece on the outside of your cuffs does tremendous work on the aesthetic Plus, I don’t know why you would want to hide this piece. It should be something you feel proud to show off. 

Overall, I’ve found this is a dressier watch—not to argue against the idea of wearing it in another environment. The heftier price alone alludes to its high-end nature, and dressing accordingly would elevate the luxurious nature of the piece even higher. 

But—and don’t get me confused—you would be fine wearing it in any environment because you’re not sacrificing comfort for something more pristine. In this piece, comfort and beauty walk side by side, so the wearer shouldn’t be concerned about when or when not to wear it. 

Pricing

You can find the Grand Seiko SLGW003 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. 

A brand-new SLGW003  can be picked up for $11,000. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 9-10k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion 

For being the first hand-wound, high-beat manual watch in over 50 years, Grand Seiko surpassed all expectations in its momentous return and has left fans eager for more manual pieces like this one. 

The sleekness, the quality of the material, and attention to detail ensure that it’s not only a reliable companion but a statement on the wrist, communicating how in-tune with the beauty of time Grand Seiko has remained as they ceaselessly strive to bind a stronger connection between their art and those who wear it. 

It can be suitable for daily wear or an elevation to your wardrobe. The Grand Seiko SLGW003 stands as a sophisticated choice that won’t go unnoticed, and as the brand evolves, its level of sophistication will undoubtedly evolve with it. 

Many horology enthusiasts and collectors appreciate the aesthetic appeal of a pristine timepiece. A fine polished watch can elevate a piece’s look, making the elegant stainless steel shimmer as it sits on your wrist. Polishing can restore a watch to its former glory, removing scratches and blemishes that develop over time. This can lead to an increase in resale value, as well as enhance the visual appeal. 

Like everything, however, polishing has drawbacks. In some instances, polishing can significantly alter a watch’s original design features, such as bevels and edges, potentially erasing iconic designs or historical significance engraved on the piece. Over-polishing can also thin the case, weakening the structural integrity and, in some cases, diminishing the value.  

Understanding the pros and cons of watch polishing helps collectors make educated decisions about their precious pieces. It also helps them balance the desire for a flawless aesthetic with the preservation of the watch’s original design.  

Why is Watch Polishing Important?

An essential part of watch maintenance is ensuring that your watch is in the most pristine condition possible. You’ve invested a lot of money into your piece, and part of that investment requires you to maintain its appearance and functionality. Polishing restores the watch’s original luster and shine, enhancing its overall appearance. This is particularly important for luxury watches, where the visual appeal can make all the difference in desirability and value.

Take a sunburst dial, for example. Its reflective nature means that even the most minor scratches or imperfections can be quite noticeable. Because the finish is designed to reflect light, any blemish can disrupt the smooth pattern of the dial’s surface, but polishing these dials helps restore them to the original vision the watchmaker had when they designed the piece. 

A guilloche dial’s complex design can benefit greatly from regular polishing as well. 

Deep scratches can compromise the intricate design, so it’s necessary to help maintain the detail that the guilloche is known for. Otherwise, the significance and value are depleted, and the guilloche dial loses its flare. 

Why you should polish your watch 

Depending on who you ask, polishing could prove to be the most valuable benefit to your timepiece. Some enthusiasts may insist upon a pristine-looking, top-of-the-line, well-polished watch, while someone else may prefer something a little more old school. Regardless of how you feel, there are some objective benefits from having a well-polished watch. 

The most obvious benefit is that polishing restores shine and erases blemishes that may have built up over time. If you wear your most prized timepiece every day, it’s guaranteed that, eventually, it will start to look worn and dull. A fresh polish can erase any sense of wear and tear and restore your piece to its former glory. 

A well-polished watch can also hold its value for a longer period of time. An expensive timepiece could be a long-term investment. If you plan to trade or sell your watch in the future, you’ll want to make sure it’s in pristine condition so you can charge the most money possible. 

Corrosion is one of the most common ways watches can deteriorate. The build-up of dirt and grime can completely diminish the look and value of your piece. Polishing can completely remove the harmful effects of corrosion, ensuring that your watch stays in its healthiest condition. 

Good polishing can also improve the clarity and legibility of the dial. With constant use, your piece’s dial becomes harder to read over time. Dirt builds up and smudges the crystal, and before you know it, the key function of the watch is deemed illegible. Polishing can remove dirt from the glass face of the dial, returning full legibility to your piece so that you can go about your day-to-day life always knowing the time. 

And finally, a well-polished piece perhaps serves the greatest purpose of all: personal satisfaction. What’s the point of investing in a watch you’re disappointed with every time you look at your wrist? Polishing can restore the aesthetic you originally fell in love with so that you feel pride whenever you look down and gaze at your beautiful piece. 

Why you should not polish your watch

While extremely beneficial to the watch’s overall aesthetics, polishing does come with its fair share of risks. Improper polishing techniques can scratch or damage the watch’s surface, particularly for delicate materials like acrylic or certain finishes. 

There’s also the risk of the watch losing its value. For vintage or collector watches, polishing can remove the original patina, which some collectors hold to an extremely high value. There’s also the risk of the polishing completely erasing a historical mark or engraving embedded within the piece, taking away the historical significance it may have previously held. 

The threat of overpolishing is ever-present as frequent polishing risks thinning the metal on cases and bracelets, leading to structural issues over time. The loss of aesthetics is one thing, but the damage to the watch itself is a much more severe risk that enthusiasts should be mindful of.

Warranty concerns pose a threat as well. Some manufacturers may void warranties if a watch is polished improperly, as it can affect the watch’s integrity and diminish its overall value. So, if you ever intend to resale or refund your piece, the number one priority is to ensure there is no damage or blemishes from improper polishing that could deter potential buyers. 

Another popular reason to avoid polishing your watch is simply personal preference. Some enthusiasts prefer a watch’s character as it ages, preferring a more worn look rather than a polished finish. 

There’s objectively no wrong choice when it comes to whether or not you want your watch to be polished. It all depends on outliers and personal preferences. The only thing you must be sure of is that you are getting your watch polished by somebody who knows what they are doing. 

Should you polish your watch yourself? 

If you have an experienced hand, polishing your watch yourself can have tremendous advantages and can be extremely convenient. 

The first clear advantage is affordability. DIY polishing saves you money compared to professional services. It also ensures that you can polish in your own time, basing your services completely on your own schedule. 

As with any DIY project, it can be a rewarding experience to learn about the intricacy of your watch and how to care for it. Just be sure that you have all the proper tools and that you know enough not to completely destroy the watch. Developing your skill through a DIY polishing project can be very satisfying when you successfully restore your watch’s shine and finally understand how to properly unlock the full potential of your piece. 

There are some drawbacks to DIY polishing as well, the obvious being the risk of damage. Scratching and damaging the watch becomes very easy without the proper tools and technique. Only pursue a DIY project if you have a careful hand and are willing to take the time to learn the proper methods. 

Of course, with your lack of expertise, professionals may prove to be the more efficient route. They have the capabilities and the experience to handle all sorts of pieces and the proper tools to safely polish your watch. You may not be privy to everything needed to properly restore your piece, but professionals know exactly what they are dealing with the minute you bring it in. 

As mentioned before, over-polishing is one of the most harmful things that can happen to your piece, and it’s a lot easier to over-polish than you might think. Let’s assume you know the tools you need as well as the proper techniques, but how do you know when to stop? You could end up doing everything right, but your watch still winds up in a worse condition than when you started because you didn’t know when to stop polishing. This problem obviously can be fixed by going to a professional, but—as with everything—you can fix it yourself if you take the time to learn. 

The primary issue is time. Sure, if you spend hours researching and practicing, you can mimic what a professional does relatively well, but the simple question is: is it worth it? Some of you may want to simply enjoy your piece and quit worrying whether or not it’s at risk of being damaged. In that case, a professional is the way to go. 

At the same time, some of you may be committed to learning every step and crave the satisfaction of gradually seeing your watch returned to its previous elegance. The only thing I advise is to be careful. There is really no wrong choice here, as long as you are actually committed to learning and are willing to put in the hours to learn the skill yourself. 

Conclusion

The decision to polish your watch isn’t as much of an objective yes or no as it is on personal preferences and outlying situations. It ultimately depends on the level of importance you place on your individual piece. Does it need polishing? If it does, is it worth learning by yourself? Would the cost of polishing be worth it? You can only answer these questions. 

Some factors that can sway your decision-making are understanding the watch’s material, its historical significance, and the individual priorities in watch care. Before you make your decision, be sure you have a clear understanding of the improvements that can be made should you polish it, the disadvantages and risks that could arise, and above all, learn everything there is to know about your own watch and let that govern your decision-making process. 

By balancing all this information, you should come to a clear choice on whether or not you should pursue the avenue of watch polishing. The best advice that I can give is the simple fact that what works for someone else may not work for you. If anyone tells you that there is an objective answer to this question, they are plain wrong. Just do the research and take the time to learn, and the decision will become clear.

Nature and culture are two prevalent topics that serve as fundamental bases for Japanese society. They complement each other indubitably. Nature weaves itself in and out of Japanese culture, and in turn, the culture pays its respects by holding nature to an elevated standard. 

The Grand Seiko SBGJ271 takes this concept and recognizes the beauty that can be achieved by combining nature and culture in ways that make you appreciate the immense value each brings to the table. The way in which we live our lives is a reflection of the nature around us. 

The snowy angelic dial also gives off a reflection, perhaps symbolizing how this industrialized world’s greatest feat is simply the landscape on which they reside, something completely out of their control. 

The whiteness of the dial resembles the flooring of Japanese households and Buddhist temples, which mirror the ground after a fresh snowfall, yet again alluding to the idea that everything mankind articulates is simply a byproduct of our planet.

Seiko brings its grand vision to life in this stunning piece. The watch embodies a wintery feel—a quiet, desolate, snowy landscape untrodden by man and never thawing. Its frosty, sharp design is simply beautiful, making it one of my personal favorite Grand Seiko pieces. 

As we explore the expertly crafted mechanics that make this watch stand out, pay attention to how each aspect of the design pays tribute to Japanese culture and recognize how important the Japanese deem nature, as they pay homage to it at every turn. 

History

In 2023, the SBGJ271 became a part of the Elegance GMT 4 seasons collection, joining pieces that characterize the earliest Grand Seiko creations, fitting in with the soft design and round structure of its counterparts. It’s very similar to the SBGJ249, sharing similarities to the bracelet and case. 

However, where the 249 symbolizes the rainy season, the 271 most notably characterizes the winter. Both watches keep true to the message the Elegance collection attempts to convey, which is that everything always has multiple layers, and there is always much more than meets the eye in every piece. 

Case 

Inspired by the original 62GS case but fitted with more modern dimensions, the case has a diameter of 39.5mm, a lug-to-lug of 46.9mm, and a thickness of 14.1mm. It is made of flawless stainless steel, and the entire case has a Zaratsu finish, giving it a stunning presence. Shiny and elegant, the stainless steel laces the whole piece in a soft, luxurious style, like freshly fallen snow.

Keeping with the winter theme, the box-domed sapphire crystal sits elevated, like a thin layer of ice above a frozen lake. I’ve always been a fan of the box-domed style, as I feel it gives a vintage feel to it, as opposed to the way other crystals sit, not to mention that it offers another layer of protection, keeping the dial from getting scratched. The bezel tremendously compliments it, with its curved, well-polished edges perfectly blending with the smooth, icy layer of the dome.

The vintage-style non-screw-down crown resides at the 3 position. It sits discreetly but does not diminish the stunning beauty of the Zaratsu-finished stainless steel. The watch’s powerful 9S86 is visible through the see-through case back, giving a pleasing view of the piece’s heart and giving perspective on just how talented these watchmakers are. 

See-throughs have always been my preference, as I prefer the more open and intricate feel that comes with admiring the mechanical portion of my watch as well as the aesthetics. 

Overall, the case does its job very well. It gives off the unmistakable aesthetic of a fresh winter, blending the icy style with a vintage design. Its ultimate goal, however, is to highlight the real star of the show: the dial. 

Dial 

Reminiscent of lacquered Japanese flooring, the dial’s stark white coloring is brilliant and bold. The unique pattern combines modern design while also incorporating the vintage theme the rest of the watch is striving for. The team at Grand Seiko decided they wanted to embody the look of an outdoor Buddhist temple reflecting the freshly fallen snow residing on the trees above. 

They combined the unmistakable beauty of a fresh winter with something essential to Japanese culture, giving the dial a beautiful aesthetic and a symbolic tone that hovers over the rest of the piece. 

The dial has the standard traditional GMT 4 seasons collection layout, with the 24-hour markers cramped toward the center. But this piece has a unique black-colored GMT hand that we aren’t used to seeing from other GMT pieces, as most GMT hands have vibrant colors. The bold black contrasts the stark white in a sophisticated manner that causes both colors to expand to their full aesthetic potential. 

The markers are a gold bar style, with two residing at the 12, 9, and 6 positions instead of one, while a smaller marker can be found at the 3 position right next to the date window. A dark silver GS logo sits in the middle of the snow, complementing the dark GMT hand while contrasting the white dial. 

Overall, the dial alone advocates for purchasing the entire piece. It looks incredible in its own right and elevates everything else on the watch, bringing a style that feels like an old vintage piece. The unique texture is what highlights the dial for me. 

I love how watchmakers threaded bits of their own culture and how it reflects the beauty of the seasons. Not to mention, rich white is one of my favorite dial colors. This hits every box. Whether you’re looking for boldness, elegance, a vintage feel, or you love the symbolism and how the piece reflects the culture from which it came, this watch undoubtedly is for you. 

Movement

Powered by a 9S86 36000 Hi-Beat caliber, you can expect traditional Grand Seiko automatic watch movement, functioning at 36000 beats per hour. It uses a special alloy for the mainspring and hairspring, allowing it to achieve a 55-hour power reserve while still maintaining 36000 beats. The accuracy measures at +5 -3 seconds per day, and it is a GMT watch, allowing for a simple time-zone adjustment whenever you please. 

Accuracy is something Grand Seiko fans never have to worry about. Even though the revolutionary Spring Drive doesn’t fuel this piece, you can pretty much guarantee that all Seiko watches are going to deliver the most accurate reading possible while moving in a smooth, eloquent manner. This piece is, by all means, no exception. The elegant black hands subtly tick across the dial, gracefully showing off their mechanical prowess in a way only Grand Seiko can emulate. 

Mechanical ingenuity is far more important than the aesthetic of the watch. Without a sound, mechanical base, the rest of the piece is deemed useless. Thankfully, Seiko has been giving us the best of both worlds for generations. The level of mechanical flawlessness combined with Seiko’s elegant craftsmanship in every piece shouldn’t be the norm. Yet, they continue to pride themselves on the quality of each piece, which seems to improve with each release. 

Bracelet

The stainless steel bracelet’s five-link design features a matte finish on the innermost and outermost links and a Zaratsu finish on the smaller, middle ones. It is a classic Grand Seiko bracelet with a mixture of brushed and polished surfaces. 

The clasp is a simple fold with pushers featuring the Grand Seiko engraving in bold print. A simple and comfortable clasp that snugly fits the wrist. There are no micro-adjustments to find the perfect fit, but the half-links and screw links may make adjustments a little more simpler. 

However, the basic fitting should accustom most wrists comfortably enough. I can’t see many problems arising unless you have a uniquely sized wrist. The 19mm lug width may prove difficult to find straps, but the drilled lugs offer an easier way to swap them out. 

The sleek, smooth, glistening silver comfortably blends with the whiteness of the dial. It’s a very subtle feel but one that gets its message across all the same. It encapsulates the feeling of a soft winter, with hardly any distracting flamboyant features that take away from the tranquil atmosphere set by the rest of the piece. 

Rooted in solemn spirituality, it fits that every aspect of the piece embodies a quiet place of worship. Pieces like this, which take the form of a less dramatic sense of beauty, have always been more eye-catching. Watches that stay quiet usually speak a lot louder to me than something more dramatic, which is why I am drawn to this piece. 

With the greyness of the smoothly polished stainless steel and the stark white of the dial come a foreboding, powerful sensation that everything beautiful mankind has created originates from the earth itself. 

Even places of worship are subject to this sensation, with the temple floors being covered in snow, causing us to step back and admire the planet’s beauty while holding ourselves accountable to preserve this beauty.

On the Wrist 

The dimensions make this an extremely wearable watch on a variety of wrists. With an adjustable strap, it fits wrists as small as 6 inches and as high as 7.5 inches, so there aren’t going to be many issues for most wearers. 

The domed sapphire crystal, however, makes this watch significantly thicker than you might expect. A little too thick to slide under cuffs, making it more of a sportier wear that can be worn on dressier occasions. 

Practical and legible, with a GMT feature that can easily adjust to fit any timezone, this piece can be worn daily and looks beautiful with anything. The smooth silver goes with any lighter shade of clothing, but it can also beautifully contrast with a darker shirt. 

This piece is one of the rare instances where it can fit just as comfortably in a casual environment as well as a dresser environment, which is why I think that this is the perfect watch for any occasion. If you were going to buy only one, then this would be my pick. Not to mention that this is one of my favorite designs Seiko has ever produced. 

The stoic symbolism combined with the dazzling subtle shade of grey causes it to stand out among other pieces of similar design. The chain links are crafted to perfection and fit comfortably, and despite the thickness, it is an extremely lightweight wear that makes me forget it’s on my wrist. 

I wholeheartedly believe that this watch offers everything you need in a Seiko piece. It takes themes from their previous designs and merges them to give you an authentic Grand Seiko experience. They truly never disappoint. Each masterpiece tells its own story, weaving its narrative through the links of the bracelet. I simply cannot recommend this watch enough. 

Pricing

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGJ271 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGJ271 costs can be picked up for $7,100. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 5-6k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion 

What more is there to say? This piece is not only beautiful, but it tells an entire story while sitting on your wrist. Seiko blends their obsession with nature and culture together and gives us a beautiful synopsis of what it means to live on this planet. 

The winter is harsh, but there is beauty to be found in the cold. When snow falls, it elevates the things it graces, bringing beauty through subtlety. This watch does the same. Bringing a solemn feel that mirrors a Japanese winter, it’s in a league of its own as it quietly stuns its audience with its sleek, silvery-white beauty. 

Seiko reminds us that while they pride themselves in making the most beautiful pieces possible, the greatest beauty of all comes from nature. They have gotten everything that man has made from the stunning planet they live in. 

Taking inspiration from the seasons, the trees, the oceans, the forests. Every dazzling fragment of Japan has been incorporated into Grand Seiko pieces in one way or another over the years, and this piece is no exception. 

As Grand Seiko continues to evolve, fans should hold their hopes high. Seiko continues to prove itself as one of those companies that seem to hold onto their core principles through the test of time while also adapting to improve every new piece that they release.

I have yet to be disappointed and find it highly unlikely that they will ever falter on their mission to aim for perfect craftsmanship and poetic symbolism, causing each piece to take on its own identity and come alive on your wrist.

Attuning themselves to the authenticity of the changing seasons, Grand Seiko has made it their goal to speak with a voice that embodies the unwavering beauty of Japanese nature. Although the seasons may change, there is no reason we can’t celebrate the turning of the leaves and the chill of the air. 

Grand Seiko extends an invitation to the autumn weather with the SBGW285, aka the Byōka, which is named–quite literally–after a period when the late summer months begin to shift into autumn. The aesthetic of this piece mimics that change of season. The deep, green dial that you will come to learn about references the end of summer, a time when Japan’s vegetation is at its ripest. 

In Shigushuiki, where this watch was made, the summer is short, and the transition occurs at the end of August with early signs of autumn in the air. At this time, the leaves on the trees grow increasingly dark, which is what this style represents. The SBGW285 captures this change perfectly on your wrist, its favorable dark colors etching themselves in your mind so that every time you look down, you’re reminded of this beautiful time of the year. 

While we explore the intricate mechanics and the unique style of luxury that shrouds this piece, we will learn all about its deep symbolism and significance to Japanese culture, putting into perspective just how much passion Seiko pours into every watch they create. 

History

The Elegance Collection has the honor of being the home of the first-ever Grand Seiko timepiece. Since 1960, the company has been soaring, producing works of art that seemingly grow in quality with each release. 

In 2022, the SBGW285 was a welcome addition to the elegance collection, joining the ranks of legendary pieces that serve as a foundation for the entire company. 

Case

This vintage-style case will please those of you who prefer a smaller build, measuring in at a very compact 37.3mm diameter, 44.3mm lug-to-lug, and 11.7mm thickness. Taking inspiration from the original Grand Seiko watch from 1960, this stainless steel case is complete with mirror-polished finishing, giving the watch an authentic and elegant character that stays true to the company’s roots. 

The lugs are arched, giving it a curvy texture that complements the rounded case profile. The push-pull crown jets out from the side of the case, only offering 30m of water resistance, which is acceptable given the dressier nature of the watch; you’re not going to be diving in swimming pools with it on. I would complain, however, that the crown is a little too bulky compared to the slim dimensions of the rest of the watch. 

A see-through case back with 6 screws allows you to view the 9S64 manual winding movement, serving as the heart of the piece that powers each mechanical movement, giving it that flawless Grand Seiko feel. Sitting smooth and well-furnished, the shallow bezel resides below the elevated sapphire crystal, a beautiful, ascended double-dome that makes up most of the watch’s thickness. 

The contrast between the sapphire crystal’s heightened, bubble-like features and the bezel’s subtler nature highlights the entire case, giving it a unique flare that immediately catches the eye. 

With the majority of the thickness coming from the crystal, the rest of the case is given the privilege of being a little slimmer than we’re used to, which (depending on your taste) could be a make-or-break feature when choosing a luxury watch to purchase. 

Dial

Fitting with the “end of summer” symbolism, the Byōka’s dial is a rich, dark green that can appear almost black under certain lighting conditions. As summertime comes to a close, the winds may begin to develop a chill, but the scenery around you is still green and full of life. 

This dial embraces the change of seasons and displays what makes summer so beautiful. The dial is laced with a frosted texture pattern that blends nicely with the hand-finished indices’ polished surfaces. It is inspired by the Japanese kirazuri painting technique, which involves adding glittering mica flakes to print, resulting in a glittering dynamic surface. 

The kirazuri texture is designed to invoke the feeling of dark green leaves that begin to fall at the end of summer. In my opinion, the frosted texture gives the appearance of some foreign exotic material, like a high-quality piece of leather, that gives the watch a look of its own. 

When you combine that with the slender, stainless steel indices, it all makes for a luxurious recipe that immediately attracts the eye, not to mention the flawlessly crafted hands that round out the entire look, sweeping across the dial in an elegant motion. 

The Grand Seiko logo is very shallow and subtle, not too distracting but adding another aesthetic layer to the dial. This piece lacks a date window, which–to some–encourages the undeniable beauty of a minimalistic look, while others will miss the practicality of always knowing the date with a glance at their wrist. 

In my opinion, pieces like these that prioritize luxury greatly benefit from the entire “less is more” idea. Crowding a dial can sometimes harm a piece’s overall appearance, distracting us so much that we forget to embrace the beauty of the craftsmanship. The SBGW285 benefits from a minimalistic look, and the simple elegance of the dial breathes life into the entire piece. 

Movement

The hand-wound movement is powered by the Caliber 9S64, another testimony to the undeniable simplicity this watch radiates. It’s very well-decorated and adjusted at six different points to ensure extreme accuracy, which puts it a step above COSC. With a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a normal usage accuracy of +10 to -1 seconds per day, the six different positions of measurement guarantee that you are getting the most accurate reading possible. 

The 72-hour power reserve makes this one of the most practical office watches. You can take it off to go home on the weekend, and it’ll still be the envy of all your coworkers on Monday morning when you put it back on. The see-through case-back allows for a satisfying view of the 9S64, allowing you to observe all its intricacy as it tirelessly works to provide a technologically sound experience, combining high-end technology with Seiko’s stand-out taste for perfect craftsmanship. 

Manual movements are ideal for this style of watch, as they fit the simplistic tone that the SBGW285 aims to embody, but don’t get anything confused, while a manual movement may not compare to the powerhouse Spring Drive, the Caliber 9S64 packs a punch of its own incorporating genius precision that every Seiko watchmaker is equipped with. 

Straps

The deep, forest-green alligator straps with a beautiful tight grain set this watch apart, giving it its unique look. Equipped with a glossy finish, the strap shimmers in the light and looks almost glazed, with an underlying style that is only revealed when exposed to certain lighting. 

Again, incorporating the idea that summer is coming to an end, the richness of the straps accompany the fine-tuned dial and case, rounding out the piece in perfect symbolism. The calfskin leather on the bottom perfectly complements the dial and is one of the most comfortable options for wristwear. 

Lightweight and smooth to the touch, it’s hardly noticeable on the wrist, and the pattern on the leather adds another layer of depth. The pin buckle with the vintage Grand Seiko logo is ideal for a vintage-inspired dress watch. While the drilled lugs make it easy to change straps, the 19mm lug width makes it difficult to find ones that will fit. 

But one of the watch’s most notable features is the strap’s high-quality leather that perfectly matches the rest of the watch, so if you want to change the house strap, you’re going to have trouble finding something that can top it. 

On Wrist Experience

The SBGW285 is a true, classic dress watch suitable for men and women alike. Its sleek, curvy build gives it a cleaner aesthetic due to the fact that it isn’t as bulky. The compact size and shape mean that anyone with a 5.5-inch wrist and above can wear it. However, it would start to look small on those with a 7.5-inch wrist or larger. People crave dress watches because they are a suitable match with any formal attire. 

They are an easy way to enhance your entire look, and the deep green dial and strap will go perfectly with any formal dresswear you have in mind. Paired with the fact that the watch is thin enough to slide under any dress cuff, I can think of no better watch that better suits the needs of those who prioritize style. 90% of the time, the green dial will appear black while it is on your wrist. 

While indoors, the lighting will make the watch appear much darker than it actually is. Whether that is your preference or not is up to you, but outside, under the right lighting conditions, the dial will explode, displaying the dark green to full effect. 

I personally like how the watch can take different shapes depending on the lighting conditions, but again, if that is not your preference, you may not enjoy this watch as much as others will. The strap also comes alive while on the wrist. 

The glistening glaze of the smooth, green leather can be quite reflective and vibrant when exposed to certain lights and quite dormant and reclusive when exposed to others. Regardless of the light, however, the watch still compliments the dial and case perfectly while also being easy to adjust and incredibly comfortable. 

My favorite part of the watch is how Grand Seiko weaved the symbolistic changing of seasons into their piece. The dark green looks beautiful in and of itself, but once you know what it represents, it makes the color all the more impactful. Pieces like this make us appreciate the turn of the seasons. 

Whether we are ready for it or not, change is inevitable. Grand Seiko encourages us to focus on the beauty of change and the impact it can have on us and everyone around us. 

Pricing

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGW285 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGW285 costs can be picked up for $4,800. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 3-4k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion

Each passing season, Seiko gives us new reasons to appreciate their fine-tuned craftsmanship and unmistakable attention to detail. We’ve seen time and time again that nature is a prevalent theme in every piece Seiko releases. In Shizukuishi–where the watches are made–Grand Seiko’s studio is tucked away in a quiet little forest in northern Japan. 

With the stunning beauty of Japanese nature all around them, it would make sense that the inspiration for these pieces would come from simply looking out the window. Nature is powerful, and the unmistakable impact it has had on the craftsmen who forge these stunning pieces cannot be stated enough. 

Inspiration is passed down the line, as one craftsman inspires another, but Grand Seiko reminds us that the greatest inspiration of all comes from right outside our front door. I love symbolistic pieces that focus on the natural beauty in the world. 

Seiko encourages us to never stop looking for this natural beauty because it’s up to us to preserve the art that can be found in the simplest of things. Overall, great piece. A simple take on an elegant manual dress watch that packs its own unique punch. If you’re into green and looking for something comfortable and stylish above all else, this is the perfect piece.