Author: Alex DeVane

With the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko sought to modernize its models and appropriately adapt to changing times by dramatically refining its designs, introducing a theme of contemporary boldness embedded within every piece. 

Keeping true to what makes Grand Seiko such an icon while adopting modernized visuals and mechanics, the SBGE283 stands as a testament to how an already timeless brand can continue to be a leading figure in innovation. 

Incorporating a GMT hand, allowing a second timezone to be read at a glance, and a Spring Drive movement, which glides swiftly and silently across the dial, this watch deems itself fit for every occasion, as its elegance is only matched by its practicality. 

Regarded as the sibling of the popular “Mistflake” watch (aka the SBGE285), the 283 shares many similarities, including being made of the same high-intensity titanium, which causes both watches to feel significantly lighter on the wrist. 

They also share the same Spring Drive, GMT features, and very similar measurements. The overall aesthetic is nearly identical, with the only real defining feature of the 283 being that the dial is a darker black compared to the silvery grey of the Mistflake. That being said, these watches were purposely designed to have identical features. 

The question of “Which one is better?” boils down to personal preference, style choice, and other outliers. There can’t be a debate on which performs better because they were designed to perform the same. Keep in mind that this review will exclusively focus on the SBGE283, but all of the intricate mechanics, such as movement and measurements, can also be applied to the Mistflake as well.

History

In 2020, the Evolution 9 Style redefined everything we love about Grand Seiko. Keeping the charm found in all Grand Seiko pieces but providing us with a new standard of legibility, comfort, and beauty, the Evolution 9 Style sought to remind a new generation of watch lovers how revolutionary each and every piece strives to be. 

Two years later, in August 2022, the SBGE283 joined the Evolution 9 family, further adding to the already breathtaking library. Prioritizing aesthetics, legibility, and comfort, the SBGE283, at its core, aligns with what Grand Seiko aims to achieve with the Evolution 9 collection, which is the self-proclaimed pursuit of precision and mastery, as every piece further reinforces that the most meaningful evolution begins inside. 

Case

Let’s start by looking at the high-intensity titanium case. At 41mm in diameter and 13.9mm in thickness, with a 48.3mm lug-to-lug, this watch is on the smaller side compared to similar models, which will serve as a selling point for those who prefer slimmer builds. 

The curved drilled lugs give it a unique texture, making the watch appear even smaller while evening out the proportions. They also allow for an easy strap change if you so desire. The material gives it an elegant feel that sets the tone for the entire piece. 

The high-intensity titanium is 30% lighter than stainless steel, giving it a lighter look and feel. It is also darker and moodier than its stainless steel counterpart, allowing for a broader range of styles to accompany the piece. 

As usual–in Grand Seiko fashion– the finishing is impeccable. The predominantly satin finish contrasts the beveled edges along the case, giving it a subtle flare of elegance. The Evolution 9 series follows the theme of very simply designed bezels that are clearly not the focal point of the piece but serve their purpose all the same by adding an undeniable feel of luxury, as the jet-black font of the numbers perfectly contrasts the crisp titanium background. 

The see-through and screw case back allows you to view the intricate movements of the Spring Drive sitting at the heart of the watch, and the signed crown makes it easy to adjust the time and date due to the true GMT movement. The anti-reflective sapphire crystal guards the piece from any unwanted light reflections that threaten to take away from the watch’s aesthetic. 

Overall, the lightness of the titanium and the bezel’s beautiful subtlety perfectly complement the jet-black dial, allowing for uncontested legibility and practicality. The slimness of the case will undoubtedly turn a lot of heads as the fine-tuned sharpness and the texture of the lugs are some of the biggest staples of the piece. 

Dial 

The dial’s deep, rich black serves as a perfect backdrop, making each grand feature shine even brighter than they already do. The Spring Drive fuels the hands as they soar across the frame in a seemingly unstoppable motion, gliding elegantly with pinpoint accuracy. Around the edge, the minute track sits quiet and somber, taking no attention away from the beauty of the hands and backdrop. 

The finely hand-finished indices project themselves like bright stars in the blackness of the night, causing easy legibility. The hands and indexes also come equipped with LumiBrite, offering enhanced visibility at night with its glow-in-the-dark feature. The sleek silvery color of the titanium combined with the inky black dial is a perfect recipe that delivers everything Seiko sought to accomplish with this piece. 

Nothing crazy, nothing obscene, just pure simplistic beauty, finely crafted so the watchmaker’s work can be known and appreciated wherever you look. The date indicator at 3 and the power reserve indicator at 9 round out the dial in perfect symmetry, while the third hand brings the GMT feature, making it easy to change the date at any given moment. 

While the case’s lightweight titanium and slimness are my favorite aspects of this piece, the SBGE283’s dial is one of the most elegant I’ve ever seen. The perfect blend of legibility and simplicity pushes it over the top and rounds out the piece in a well-mannered way that I’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko. 

Movement 

The iconic Grand Seiko Spring Drive is the most impressive part of the SBGE283. Like every other luxury mechanical watch, it generates energy, but the electronic regulator that delivers a precision that no other mechanical watch can match sets the Spring Drive apart from other mechanical movements. 

Grand Seiko has mastered both electronic and mechanical watchmaking, allowing it to nurture both aspects to their full potential. The high torque of a mechanical watch combined with the high precision of an electrical watch allows for a truly groundbreaking combination that the Spring Drive brings to life. The SBGE283 comes with a 9R66 caliber, delivering a power reserve of 72 hours and an accuracy of +15 seconds per month (+1 second per day), which is expected from a Spring Drive. 

The pinpoint accuracy allows for the second hand to move flawlessly, never stuttering or slowing. The SBGE283 and many Evolution 9 collections are true testimonies to the Spring Drive’s power. And, of course, the SBGE283 comes equipped with the GMT feature, undoubtedly putting a smile on the face of every world traveler who wants to get their hands on this watch. 

The easily adjustable date indicator and time zone add another element of efficiency to the watch movement, making it a more dynamic tool for those who are always on the move. One of the most mechanically sound pieces that Seiko has released, the SBGE283 strives for perfection and goes above and beyond to deliver. 

Grand Seiko revolutionized the game with their Spring Drive, and it has become customary to associate the term “flawless” with any piece housing one. As they seek to continuously push for mechanical perfection, it would only make sense for Spring Drive watches to be one of the most highly demanded pieces on the market. 

Straps

The titanium bracelet has a three-link design, polished with rolled bevel and a satin finish. The lack of tapering makes it seem wide and slightly disproportionate to the case, and it lacks micro-adjustments to make it fit even better. It does, however, come with two half-links, making for slightly easier adjustments. 

Like all Grand Seiko bracelets, the SBGE283 is sized with push pins rather than screws so that you can pop them out to loosen or tighten the bracelet around the wrist, and the drilled lugs make it so that you can easily swap out the straps whenever you feel the need. The bracelet width comes in at 22mm, causing it to fit fairly thickly along the wrist, but the titanium material makes it feel much lighter than a stainless steel variant. 

A three-fold clasp with a push button release is a simple guarantee that the watch fits tight and securely around the wrist. The clasp is also engraved with the iconic GS symbol, adding a new level of polish and style. 

The titanium material’s value to the entire piece is all the more notable on the bracelet, as the lightweight feel ensures unparalleled comfort while also allowing for a thicker design. 

The bracelet itself highlights the entire watch, broadcasting the smooth titanium while also complementing the luxurious case and dial. It executes its purpose perfectly, bringing the modern ideas of the Evolution 9 collection full circle and embodying everything Seiko seeks to achieve. 

On The Wrist 

As I said, one of the SGE283’s biggest selling points is its lightweight feel on the wrist. It prioritizes comfort and sits securely while also being one of the most stylish pieces in the Evolution 9 family. Despite the 41mm size, the 48.3 mm lug-to-lug and the 13.9mm thickness give it a very comfortable on-the-wrist experience. 

It gives off a sporty aesthetic while fitting under most cuffs, fitting like a 40mm watch thanks to the integrated bezel. With a 10-bar water resistance, you’re not going to want to be near any major water sources, but this watch isn’t necessarily made to go deep-sea diving, so if you get caught in a heavy rainstorm, it might be a good idea to cover it under a sleeve. 

While the width of the strap is probably my biggest complaint, I feel like the case’s curved lugs and integrated bezel make the watch appear slimmer, while the titanium makes it feel lighter. It’s great for those of you with a wrist size of 6.75 inches to 7.5, although people with larger or smaller wrists could easily adjust it to fit them as well. 

A rich, slick silver combined with jet-black is a very simple style choice. But that simplicity is what sets this piece apart. I think that the subtlety of the bezel perfectly contrasts the blackness of the dial, while the silver coloring of the titanium makes the entire aesthetic shine. Not to mention the finely polished surfaces and attention to detail on the hands and indices. 

Overall, all these factors make for an incredible on-the-wrist experience, as I found it easy to style with virtually any piece of clothing, which (in my opinion) should always serve as a feature that is prioritized. 

The GMT feature makes it efficient for switching time zones at any given moment, while the anti-reflective coating on the inner center removes the glare from the hands and indices, resulting in flawless legibility from any angle. 

Price and Availability

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGE283 from authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We ship all over the US, and since we are authorized dealers, we offer a five-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand new Grand Seiko SBGE283 costs $8,400, with pre-owned prices varying from $6-7k depending on condition. 

Conclusion

Keeping true to the philosophy of their brand while also making revolutionary changes to fit modern times, Grand Seiko has combined their classic feel and masterful craftsmanship into a contemporary design that will draw the eye of those who prefer a more modern look. 

The goal of the Evolution 9 collection was to push the boundaries, setting new standards of practicality and comfort. Ever since they were founded in 1960, Grand Seiko has always sought to be in a league of their own. The Evolution 9 serves as a magnum opus, combining everything they’ve learned from previous releases into one grand collection that takes them one step forward on the never-ending road toward perfection. 

Renewing the aesthetics that have been at the core of Grand Seiko for the past 62 years, the SBGE283 perfectly encapsulates everything the Evolution 9 stands for. The sleek craftsmanship and perfectly designed mechanics have made this watch a treasured prize, undoubtedly fueling the interest in similar pieces, as well as cementing the Evolution 9 collection as a monumental testament to the never-ending pursuit of technological evolution.

Flawless engineering and elegant precision are the two support beams on which pieces like the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 rest. The precision of its craftsmanship determines what makes an innovative piece earn that title. Grand Seiko has proven over and over again why it is revered, respected, and referred to as a mammoth in the industry when it comes to its design. 

There is no better embodiment of the brand’s dedication to innovation and functionality than this Sports Collection Hi-Beat 36000 GMT. Taking inspiration from the electrifying Japanese craftsmanship from which it derives while also incorporating cutting-edge technology, this masterpiece serves as an irresistible siren call for watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. 

It is no secret that GMT pieces are rooted in extremely high-quality craftsmanship, seeking to deliver on all fronts as a titan in the industry. Grand Seiko has cracked the code, as their GMT pieces are some of the most luxurious and well-designed pieces on the market. 

As we take you on a journey exploring the intricate mechanics, enchanting design, and otherworldly performance of the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Hi-Beat 36000 GMT, you will see why watch experts and enjoyers alike dub this a truly innovative piece that should be in every collection out there. 

History

Released in August 2020, the SBGJ237 is a welcome addition to the Sport Collection. From diver’s watches to chronographs, automatic spring drives, and more, the Sport Collection fully embodies the core attributes of the Grand Seiko brand—combining legibility and durability in every piece. 

Since its debut, the SBGJ237 has been a staple, highlighting the unparalleled functionality that GMT pieces bring to the table. 

Grand Seiko is by no means a stranger to GMT watches. Some past Seiko GMT pieces include the SBGM221 (which is one of my favorite GMT watches of any brand currently available) and the SBGJ201, with a similar design to the 237–as both use stainless steel for their casing–and the SBGE253, a fellow member of the sports collection, resembling the 237 in nearly everything but color. 

Seiko looks to improve upon every piece they put out, and that stands true to their GMT collection as every design has improved upon the last, bringing us their magnum opus of GMT sports watches in the form of the SBGJ237. 

Case 

The SBJG237’s case, with a diameter of 44.2 mm, may seem large, but the sloped design compensates for the bulkier measurement by significantly slimming down the case. Having a lug-to-lug of 50.6mm and being 14.4mm thick, it is one of the largest GMTs out there, which will naturally cause some complaints. But the proportions are very well-rounded. 

Plus, the case is stunning, using its size as an advantage to fully display its beauty. With a stainless steel material and a rotating 24-hour bezel made of sapphire crystal, this piece strives not only for functionality but also for a rich, demanding presence that radiates luxury and style. 

The high-quality sapphire glass allows you to gaze in wonder at a fully transparent view that lets you soak in the depth and detail of the entire piece. The crown sits solemn and silver, allowing you to easily adjust depending on your timezone. All of the intricate mechanics that optimize the watch’s functionality are tucked away behind a solid case-back with the Grand Seiko logo. The entire case captures the feeling of a midnight walk. 

It is a true sports watch that prioritizes functionality and durability above everything, yet the exquisite finishing gives it that luxurious touch that we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko. Polished surfaces with a few spots of brushing on top of the lugs already give it an iconic look, but paired with the sleek silver and the white and blue of the bidirectional bezel, you are transported to a beautiful world of light and dark where you decide which color is more dazzling. 

Dial

Moving deeper, we now look at the midnight blue dial. The bold whiteness of the GMT hand provides a symbolistic contrast to the deep, dark blue, which, under certain angles, can appear jet black. I will note that the lighting environment plays a huge part in enhancing the beauty of the dial. 

Under specific lighting, it can appear lighter or darker than it really is, adding an entirely new layer to the aesthetic, which dubs it my favorite part of this piece. The hands themselves perfectly add a sleek and bold flavor as they glide across the surface, with the hour and minute indices swimming comfortably in the dark blue sea of the dial. 

They are shaped exactly how they need to be and remain subtle enough not to overtake any other portion of the design. The bezel and hands are fully lumed, and the 3,6, 9, and 12 indices can also glow in the dark, allowing the wearer to fully use all the piece’s functions, no matter the time of day. The date window resides at the 4 o’clock position, adding to the watch’s sporty persona while not subtracting from the symmetry. 

The design of the dial is reminiscent of the Japanese night sky, a rich dark blue that I can’t state enough is the most gorgeous part of the piece. Grand Seiko seeks to add a touch of personality to every piece, and the magnificent sunburst blue coloring causes the piece to erupt with life. 

Movement

The SBGJ237 uses a Hi-beat automatic movement operating at 36,000 vph, propelling the second’s hand in a very smooth motion, nearly competing with the iconic Spring Drive itself. While not as smooth as the Spring Drive, it comes very close, and the additional perks that the Sport Collection offers far outweigh what it lacks. 

This model incorporates the high-specification movement of the Caliber 9S86, which has an accuracy of +5 -3 seconds per day and a power reserve of 55 hours. What sets the 9S86 apart from other caliber numbers, such as the 9S85, is that the 9S86 offers the GMT function, which is essential to international travelers, assuring them that the accuracy of the time shown directly correlates to their time zone. 

Many tend to label this watch as “a real GMT” because the hour hand can be set independently from the minute, making it easy to unscrew the crown and set your local timezone. Aside from other Grand Seiko models, the SBGJ237 has drawn comparisons to other GMT watches of different brands–most notably the Rolex GMT Master II. 

When comparing anything with Rolex, it is easy to assume that the most iconic name in the watch industry easily outperforms any other competitor. Still, I would argue that the Seiko watch outshines Rolex in many ways. Aside from similar movement, the two GMT watches share a similar-looking bezel and dial. 

However, the craftsmanship and finishing are notably more elegant on the Seiko, making it look more expensive than the Rolex, which speaks volumes considering that the Seiko is less than half the price. Sometimes, being the more expensive option doesn’t always mean that you are the best looking nor the most efficient. Seiko prioritizes high functionality and even higher craftsmanship in every piece they put out, once again reinforcing their impact on the industry. 

Straps

Aside from the dial, the stainless steel bracelet is my favorite feature of this piece. It perfectly balances the watch, contrasting the dark blue of the center with its sleek, silver surface and richly polished details. The bracelet is durable and well-finished. 

It has four micro-adjustments catering to a wider variety of wrist sizes. While the strap’s width may be a bit bulky, coming in at 21mm, the band’s perimeter is 201mm, making it easy to fit any wrist of any size so that you can adjust accordingly. In order to prevent accidental openings, the clasp has two triggers, which you press simultaneously, making it easy to slip on and off. 

The clasp is also engraved with the iconic Grand Seiko logo, and its impeccable satin finish–to no one’s surprise–causes it to fit perfectly with the rest of the piece. The watch fits tightly and comfortably around the wrist, ensuring it doesn’t slide while you’re on the go, and the “tooly nature” of this watch, combined with its elegance, make it a strap magnet. 

The lugs are 21mm wide, making it a little more difficult to find straps, but the drilled lugs make it easier to swap them around. 

On the Wrist

There’s no hiding the fact that this is a 44.2 mm watch with a 50.6 lug to lug–especially on a smaller wrist. It is a large watch, it doesn’t wear small, but it is very well proportioned. The only recommendation I would offer is that if your wrist is smaller than 17 centimeters (around 6.75 inches), then you should definitely try it on in the store first before you make a decision about purchasing. 

On my wrist, it feels great and has the unique feel of a high-quality tool watch, which–undoubtedly–was intended by Grand Seiko. It is bulkier, but it’s not heavy. My wrist wasn’t in pain, and I was able to comfortably move while wearing it. 

Depending on the lighting, The watch also takes on many colors. The bezel and dial can appear dark blue under one light and jet black under another, giving it even more of a stylish flare. Every so often, when I glanced down, I was pleasantly surprised at how it could adjust to any lighting environment, and–as I mentioned before–really set the tone of the entire piece for me.

Legibility is an underrated aspect of the watch. No matter how far away I was looking, and no matter the light level, I could always clearly read everything on the bezel and within the dial, which is an upside to having a thicker casing. I feel the LumiBrite glow-in-the-dark feature came in handy far more often than I thought. 

There is no legibility lost; you can clearly see the bezel, the indices, and the hands, making it easy to tell the time no matter the hour of the day. A true Sport Collection, through and through, with a 200 m water resistance (thanks to the thickness) that allows you to take on any activity without having to worry about damage or corruption, all while looking your best. 

The easily adjustable time zone makes it an essential traveling companion, giving you the freedom to sport this watch wherever you go. In terms of fashion, the sleek, stainless steel makes it easy to pair with anything, while the dark blue of the dial can perfectly match a suit jacket of the same color.  

It is a dressier watch, so be sure to up your fashion game to properly compliment this beauty. The thickness of the case will definitely make it more noticeable than a slimmer piece, which is another plus of having a thicker watch. Wearing it on the outside of your jacket would be my recommendation, as it is too bulky to wear underneath a sleeve. 

While the thickness would be my only minor complaint, there are many ways to take advantage of the size. And with it being such a pretty piece, the size makes it stand out even more. 

Price and availability

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGJ237 costs can be picked up for $6,800. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 4-6k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion

The market is always searching for pieces that encapsulate practicality, accuracy, durability, and style. These are pieces that go above and beyond, delivering high-quality craftsmanship and solidifying themselves as a brand that needs to be taken seriously. 

As much creativity as this market has, creating a piece that captures everything a watch lover wants and everything that a high-quality watch needs to function at a high-end level is difficult. But Grand Seiko stepped up to the challenge, perfectly adapting the GMT into a luxurious piece that can compete and excel over the competition. 

Undoubtedly, my personal favorite piece from the sports collection. It proves you no longer have to sacrifice practicality for a truly luxurious aesthetic. Grand Seiko continues to forge a blazing path through the industry with every piece they release, fully embodying their philosophy, which is to pour their heart and soul into every piece in pursuit of discovering the true meaning of time itself. 

As time goes on, watch lovers should be overjoyed by the value that Grand Seiko places on elegant craftsmanship and flawless precision. Their work continues to stand the test of time while maintaining their reputation as revolutionary creators, exceeding expectations, defining the industry, and improving upon every piece.