Alex DeVane, Author at Exquisite Timepieces
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rolex submariner 40mm vs 41mm

In the years that Rolex has dominated the market, we have seen them have their fair share of changes and revolutions to further cement the brand as one of the best to ever do it.

So much traction and publicity surrounds Rolex that every minor change they make to their lineup winds up being a major headline. One of the most recent big changes is the cancellation of the Submariner 40mm and the rise of the 41mm.

The Submariner series is a model that has continued to disrupt the entire industry. Part of the reason Rolex has reigned supreme for so long is because of the iconic legacy that this watch holds.

Since its release, the Submariner has always been sized at 40mm or less, which is why it was such a major headline when Rolex suddenly enlarged the Oyster case to 41mm and canceled the production of the 40mm altogether.

But what other features were changed besides the size, and why did Rolex feel like it was necessary to make these changes? Today, we will be comparing the 40mm to the 41mm and examining what stands out between the two and how one could potentially outperform the other. 

40mm

Rolex Submariner 40mm

The History of the Submariner is one of great importance. In a way, the Submariner is responsible for the reputation of Rolex itself. The cultural relevance that this piece holds is, quite frankly, too massive to capture fully.

Just know that everything that has come after the original Submariner has—in some way—been shaped by the iconic design.

When Rolex created their first diver in 1953, it wasn’t until six years later, in 1959, that the Submariner case was increased to 40mm, and the crown guards were added.

Over time, the design stuck, and with how famous Rolex is for hardly ever tampering with their designs, the Submariner still stood out as one of the least altered models in the entire catalog. 

The Reference 6204 is generally accepted as the debut Submariner. Upon its debut, it drew instant comparisons to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which is healthily considered one of if not the first dive watch ever created.

Since it shared many of the same features as the Fifty Fathoms (jet black dial, same hour and minute hands, and an inverted triangle), it was difficult to tear away and make an authentic name for itself. But Rolex eventually revealed a trick up its sleeve that perhaps no one saw coming.

The Oyster case was equipped with a specific winding crown system that came with a gasket that could screw into a tube inside of the case itself.

This proved to offer a tremendous level of water protection that outshined the competition, eventually causing the Submariner to become the first-ever diver to be able to outlast 100 meters of water pressure. 

The aesthetical prowess of the Submariner cannot be understated either. It has a sophisticated nature while also being subtle enough to style with casual wear.

The more models that were produced, the more seriously the community viewed them until, eventually, after a decade of fine-tuning and perfecting, The Submariner finally settled down and seemed to be consistent with its design. In 1959, the ref. 5512 provided a solid foundation for all Submariner models going forward, and the design has been virtually consistent ever since. 

The turn of the century found increased demand for a larger submariner, with some suggesting that 40mm was much too small for a modern sports model. It made sense. Watches of similar style were advancing in size.

This caused Rolex to take a step back and subtly refine the case of the 1166xx series. While still 40mm, the Super Case of the 1166xx had thicker lugs, crowns, and guards, which gave the impression of a more durable watch.

This caused a fair amount of controversy as some fans appreciated the thicker size, while some still longed for the classic design of past references. 

It would take until 2020, however, until Rolex finally decided to make a significant change that proved to silence the controversy and please all of its buyers.

The 1266xx was released as the first-ever Submariner to exceed 40mm, declaring the end of an age and the start of something new and spectacular. 

41mm

Rolex Submariner 41mm

With softened elements that provide an increased sense of elegance, the new Submariner also keeps the angular design of past reference models, causing a perfect blend of new and old features to please both sides of the spectrum.

It captures more of a vintage feel, taking surprisingly short strides to separate itself from its predecessor, holding on to the older look much tighter than anyone expected.

The lugs are longer and slimmer, and the crown guards are significantly thinner, trimming the aesthetic down and supplying the watch with a much more tapered profile, so for the Submariner fans who perhaps thought that previous generations were too bulky, this new edition may prove to be ideal. 

Other measurements have been changed aside from the case. For example, the bracelet has been increased from 20mm to 21mm.

There are now two crowns that appear on the dial, and the “Swiss Made” text that used to be on older models is now separated by the Rolex crown between the two words.  

Perhaps the most innovative feature is the upgraded movement. For more than 30 years, the Submariner has been driven by the Cal. 3135, one of the most popular and finest mass-produced movements ever crafted.

Even so, Rolex decided it was time to retire the dated movement and focus their sights on something fresh. Now, the Submariner—and many other Rolex models—are powered by the Cal. 3235, which has revolutionized modern pieces, improving upon nearly everything within, making them more efficient and more precise. 

The 41mm seeks only to improve, aiming to upgrade every aspect of the older models. It doesn’t try to be too much, not exactly flipping the original on its head, but doing just enough to make noticeable improvements.

Rolex has maintained the Submariner’s reputation through their innovative minds, evolving not only the Submariner but the majority of their pieces to fit the new demand of the market. It’s no wonder how they have a virtually flawless reputation. 

40mm vs. 41mm—How to choose. 

As of today, Rolex no longer sells the 40mm Submariner, though—in my opinion—there is no reason why anyone would realistically prefer the 40mm to the 41mm other than rarity value. The 41mm is simply the better alternative, as it improves virtually everything, leaving nothing more to be desired.

From a collector’s perspective, you may be eager to get your hands on one of the retired 40mm, but other than a few specific instances, I would have to wholeheartedly recommend the 41mm as the superior piece. 

Conclusion

Rolex is a brand that constantly demands respect. Even though most would agree it took them much too long to upgrade the Submariner, the common consensus is that the new 41mm is one of the most spectacular watches they have ever produced.

For a brand to stay at the top for so long, it cannot be pushed around by the market; it has to adapt to change while making innovative decisions to propel publicity and get both new and old fans excited for improvements.

The Submariner did just that. Now, as it continues its reign as one of the top divers available, it’s only a matter of time before the next upgrade is needed because the luxury watch market is never silent, and when brands start getting too comfortable, they will undoubtedly miss out on the next big thing.

If I can leave you with any advice, it would be to trust Rolex. History has proven that they never get too comfortable, as they are always seeking to push the boundaries and meet the enviable shift in the market with their own shifts as well.

fake gold rolex vs real

Fake Gold Rolex vs Real

Alex DeVane

April 16, 2025

An authentic Rolex watch is one of the most sought-after pieces on the market. Rolex has become more than just a simple watch brand, appealing across the world as a testament to fashion, blending themes of pristine elegance to give their fans something truly unique.

The grand appeal of Rolex all over the world has inevitably created a vast market of counterfeit watches that seek to cheaply emulate that iconic style everyone is so familiar with. These replicas are very deceiving, fooling even the most seasoned collectors, so how do you tell a real from a fake?

There are various features to look out for that indicate a real Rolex watch, including the authenticity of the gold. Today, we will explore the steps you can take to ensure that the gold Rolex you have coveted for so long is true to its name, eliminating any suspicion that it could be a fake piece hiding under a very convincing case. 

The Telltale Signs of a Fake Gold Rolex

Gold Rolex

At first glance, fakes fool everyone. A good fake is almost impossible to sniff out just by looking from afar, but upon picking up the watch and taking a closer look, the weight can betray a fake almost immediately. The weight of a watch is a representation of its materials.

In other words, the higher the quality of the materials, the heavier it’s going to be. When fake gold is used, the watch is very light, and if you were to hold the two in either hand, it’s very obvious which one is real.

The absence of weight is almost always the first clue that multiple corners have been cut. Authentic gold feels like authentic gold. Understand that Rolex only uses 18k gold for their watches. From the get-go, if a seller is claiming that the watch is made of 14k or 10k, that’s a certain fake.

Rolex also does not use any other metallic alloys in any of their gold watches, meaning that if a watch is marked as “gold plated” or “gold-filled,” it is a counterfeit. 

Look at the dial as well. Rolex dials are often made of enamel or mother-of-pearl, dubbing them some of the highest-quality dials on the market.

Obviously, counterfeiters will not have access to pristine materials like these, so they will turn to cheaper dial materials or cut corners on the finishing.

Fake dials have far less amounts of polishing on their surface, so look closely for any signs of unevenness and make sure that the polishing is thorough all the way around.

On a genuine gold watch, the crown should be made of 18k gold as well, engraved with the Rolex logo. Sometimes, counterfeiters have skipped the crown altogether, making for a pretty straightforward telltale sign that you’re being sold a fake.

Also, be sure to examine the watch’s documentation carefully. Genuine Rolex’s come with certificates of authenticity, a warranty card, and an instruction manual.  If any of these are missing or counterfeit, the watch is fake. 

The movement hints at authenticity. Though it is significantly more difficult to tell, the speed and precision on which the watch is operating is a clear indicator of how real or fake the watch is.

Rolex’s are known for their flawless precision, so look out for an erratically running watch or a watch that reads the wrong time altogether. 

These are a few of the clear features that I encourage you to look out for when looking for a gold Rolex—or any Rolex, for that matter. A very well-made fake will be tremendously hard to spot, but you want to be sure you are doing the most you can to prevent yourself from being scammed. 

Are Fake Gold Rolex Watches Worth It?

 But as much as I have encouraged you to avoid fakes, there is genuine debate among the watch community about whether or not fakes are worth it. This leads us to question if it is worth investing in a fake or if they are truly scams through and through. Let’s dive in a little deeper. 

In some cases, if the fake watch is made of higher-quality materials that closely resemble the real version, it can be worth it. A good counterfeiter will typically put in extra effort to make their fake resemble the authenticity of a Rolex as closely as possible.

Not all fakes are street scam watches that will break within an hour of wearing them. Some are very exceptionally made and can serve as a cheap alternative if you are simply going for the Rolex-like aesthetic.

There is a fine line between a scam watch and a counterfeit watch, so be very careful and make sure that if you were to buy a fake, the counterfeiter knows what they are doing. Don’t let your excitement blind you, and do your own research before deciding if a fake is worth it or not. 

How to Avoid Getting a Fake. 

The only advice that I can give is to be observant and do your own research. Establish what kind of watch you want, and if at all possible, go to a Rolex store or order your piece from the Rolex website.

Third-party retailers (like Exquisite Timepieces) offer them as well, but far more research will be needed if you are going to go that route to make sure the watch you are getting is legitimate. Get hand-held experience as well.

If you are presented with the opportunity to feel the watch before you buy it, I can’t recommend that you take it enough. The weight of the watch is the number one telltale sign, and upon lifting it, you can usually always determine the piece’s legitimacy. 

Conclusion

So now you know. Look for the signs, pay attention, and be wary of scams. Real gold Rolex’s are some of the most majestic pieces the watch world has ever seen, and if you are eager to experiment in the world of luxury watches, then a lot of personal responsibility is associated with this new-found journey.

Fakes are convincing, and in some cases, fakes can be a great alternative, but there is only one true Rolex whose legacy cannot be cheaply emulated.

I wish you the best of luck with your journey, and I hope that you take special care to learn the ins and outs of authentic pieces because it is truly a blessing to discover how these watch engineers continue to defy the meta and innovate the industry. That’s something that cannot be recreated.

bvlgari vs cartier

Bvlgari vs Cartier

Alex DeVane

April 15, 2025

Bvlgari and Cartier. Two of the most pristine, highly coveted, and luxurious watches on the market. These two brands stand at the forefront of celebrity watchwear, as both have been seen time and time again attributing to some of the biggest names in fashion.

Both brands date back to the 1800s, with a legacy as rich and as glamorous as their jewelry. These two titans have had centuries to perfect their craft, but how do they compare to each other?

Come with me today as we go on a detailed journey through time, exploring all of the ways that both of these brands were so influential while also examining what sets them apart from each other. 

History and Brand Heritage

Cartier Watches

Cartier was founded in 1847 and has its headquarters located in Paris, France. Bvlgari was founded in 1884, with its headquarters in Rome, Italy. Both brands reside in two of the most esteemed cities in the world, whose contributions to fashion are some of the most iconic to date.

Perhaps one of the well-known claims to fame among Cartier fans is the recognition by Great Britain’s King Edward VII, who declared that Cartier was “The jeweler of kings and the kings of jewelers.”

Before they explored watchmaking, Cartier were jewelers responsible for producing rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings of the highest quality. It wasn’t until 1904—a time when pocket watches were in style—that they manufactured their first wristwatch.

There is some debate about whether or not Cartier was responsible for the first wristwatch ever. Patek Phillipe technically crafted the first ladies’ watch shortly before, but we can all agree that Cartier is responsible for skyrocketing the wristwatch to its level of fame.

Cartier’s first wristwatch for men was called the Santos—named after Louis Cartier’s friend and pilot who complained to Louis about how hard it was to use his pocket watch while flying a plane.

As of 2020, Cartier has over 6 billion in annual revenue and a brand value of $12.2 billion. They are also ranked the 56th most valuable watch brand by Forbes. 

Bvlgari’s history dates back to the 1920s, with early high jewelry creations reflecting the design of traditional French schools, incorporating platinum and diamonds with a geometric pattern.

The genuine Italian style emerged in the 40s, with pieces embracing sunny shades of yellow gold and rich Serpenti designs.

By the mid-50s, Bvlgari introduced daring chromatic combinations, blending precious and colored stones to invoke a newfound appreciation of the Roman landscape. This led to the Cabochon becoming a hallmark of the brand. 

Bvlagari has a brand value of $5.4 billion. And rank #45 among the top 50 most-loved brands in Europe. 

Overall, I would say that Cartier gets more attention than Bvlgari, especially in the US. On that same list, where Bvlgari ranks 45th in most popular brands in Europe, Cartier comes in at #32.

It makes sense; they are both European brands that have been around for a very long time, so naturally, they are going to get more traction in Europe.

They may be evenly matched across the sea, but in the US, it would be my guess that Cartier would be much more recognized because it is one of the most popular brands among Hollywood celebrities, getting frequent publicity from famous actors or models sporting elegant wristwear designed to catch the eye of the public.

Both brands, however, are some of the highest quality pieces that you can get, and just because one might be a little more popular doesn’t mean that the other is lacking in any regard. Let’s take a closer look at what makes these two brands shine and why exactly they are so coveted. 

Model Variety

Bvlgari watches

Watchmaking is an art, and just like any art, excessive inspiration is required for artists to shine. Both Cartier and Bvlgari are two of the most inspirational brands the industry has ever seen, countlessly contributing time and time again and instilling a sense of refinery that has swiftly guided the trajectory of the entire craft.

Both of them do it in grand style as well, with each brand having a large selection of timepieces with hundreds of models.

They both produce pieces with hand-wound, self-winding, and quartz watch movements, with materials varying from stainless steel to gold. In some cases, many pieces from both brands will also have diamond bezel rings, accentuating the esteemed level of glamour.

Cartier watches have gained the reputation of aging like fine wine. The technology within every piece is built to last, and the exterior is designed to protect that technology for as long as possible.

Cartier pieces are more classical, almost looking like relics from a forgotten time, instilling within you a sense of nostalgia for a time that you never even knew.

Pieces like the Tank Must and the Quartz Silver ooze with that classical glory that is impossible to describe unless you’re physically holding the watch in your hands.

The square dials and thick Roman numerals have become a second-hand association with the brand, so iconic that sometimes you forget that other pieces can also use the same aesthetic. 

To say that these watches are utilitarian would probably be a stretch. The Tank and the Crash are two very tough builds, but they almost stand in an element of their own, so refined that you forget how durable they are.

That, to me, is an incredible achievement. Needless to say, Cartier watches will hold up in rough environments, but because of how pristine they are, you would be very foolish to wear these kinds of watches somewhere they could get damaged. 

The Panthere is not only one of the most popular women’s models but one of the most coveted models out of Cartier’s entire catalog. It is also part of the reason why Cartier watches are so popular among celebrities.

In the 90s, “It girls” like Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna were seen sporting the watch, and in 2017, when the model was revived, it picked up right where it left off on the wrists of icons like Dua Lipa and Zendaya.

Remember, Cartier also specializes in jewelry, so its female fanbase is perhaps even larger than the males who only concern themselves with the brand’s watches. 

Bvlgari’s claim to fame is the geometrically perfect cases and the bold and unique style that has also made them a favorite among celebrities. The Serpenti collection has gained a cult-level following because of its mesmerizing design.

This elegant line was first released in the 1940s, with the focus on delivering a pristine jewelry-like feel to a simple wristwatch. The models under the Serpenti Sedutorri have three shades of gold—rose, white, and yellow—with both ultra-precious and pave diamond renditions.

The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic is one of their most intricate pieces ever, with a flying tourbillon movement called the Caliber BVL 288 that measures only 1.9mm thick, with a total case thickness of only 3.95mm.

Achieving a measurement like that is not an easy task and is a testament to these watch engineers’ extremely high skill levels. The Bvlgari Bvlgari collection looks a little more like what a traditional watch fan would be used to.

Interestingly enough, it was originally released in 1975 as a gift for the company’s 100 top customers, but it gained so much popularity that Bvlgari decided to turn it into an entire collection, shortly becoming the company’s highest-selling watch after its release. 

In case you didn’t already know, Bvlgari also had tremendous success in the jewelry department apart from their watch game.

This, again, is why the women’s Serpenti Silver watch is one of their most popular items. In the watch world, ladies tend to be drawn to the finer things, often seeking a piece that displays an esteemed level of luxury, incorporating rich gold or fancy diamonds into the design. Its no wonder why the Serpenti Silver is such a common pick among women. 

Both Cartier and Bvlgari offer an incredible amount of variety. So much so that it’s tough to compare. Obviously, both of these pieces are mostly renowned for their incredible sense of luxury, providing the most elegant materials and breathtaking designs.

However, if you are a fan of the simpler things, I think the Bvlgari might be a little more up your alley simply because they offer more traditional designs than Cartier. Of course, this is a very niche recommendation.

I cannot sit here and say one brand is better than the other; I can only sit here and tell you what I think, which is why, on the flip side, if you’re looking for a more luxurious piece that is like a little piece of history on your wrist, Cartier is the way to go. 

Design

I like to believe that both of these brands follow the same design philosophies, prioritizing pristine design and flawless precision both on the inside and outside of the piece.

Just think, both of these brands are more than a century old, that’s a lot of time to perfect your craft. I would say that both of these brands are as close to perfection as you can get, at least in terms of reliability and refinement. 

As I have said before, Cartier feels like a historic testament on your wrist, arguably looking even better with age. Because of their heritage, Cartier watches also hold their value for an incredibly long time.

They prioritize both shape and proportion in their pieces, holding strong to the belief that proportion takes a watch’s elegance to another level while the shaping provides a sense of depth and detail. For Cartier, symmetry is a way to provide that unparalleled aesthetical intricacy, giving their pieces a unique perspective that has become truly iconic.

Bvlgari women’s models typically use quartz movement, prioritizing simplicity and classical elegance, while the men’s models have a more contemporary design, faintly following the outline of a more traditional sports watch.

Over the years, Bvlgari has definitely adapted more to the modern environment, taking their original designs and refining them in a way that would please the modern fanbase.

When comparing the two, Bvlgari comes off as far more contemporary, especially with its aluminum line, and with the new-found addition of ultra-thin models, Bvlgari is definitely making a name for itself as a forerunner for modern designs. 

These are two of the most well-designed pieces on the market, and personal preference will play a massive role when deciding which brand suits you best. One thing is for certain: these are two of the most consistent brands on the market, and no matter what you choose, I guarantee you will be satisfied. 

Build Quality and Materials

The material of the watch determines how durable and how extravagant the piece really is. If you use cheap, second-hand materials, your watch will not hold up under strenuous environments.

Cutting corners and skimping out on high-quality, authentic metals will ultimately lead to the natural decline of the watch’s overall condition. Needless to say, when looking for watches on the same level as Cartier and Bvlgari, high-quality materials should be one of your top priorities. 

Cartier watches can come either fully paved in diamond or a combination of gold and steel. The gold and steel varieties can either combine on one piece or reside alone on your watch, depending on preference.

The hands and straps—unless a different leather strap is used—typically follow in the footsteps of the casing, and their dials can come in either Guilloche, Enamel, or Sapphire crystal. 

Bvlgari uses gold, stainless steel, ceramic, and titanium, as well as their relatively new aluminum line, which has taken the watch world by storm. Their dials typically follow suit with their case materials, and some are even made with silk or wood. The hands are made from 18k gold, steel, titanium, or sometimes even brass. 

Movements

Cartier uses a mixture of both in-house movements and third-party movements. A few of their self-manufactured movements include the 1904-PS MC, which is one of their most reliable automatic movements that powers pieces like the Calibre de Cartier.

The 9611 MC and the 9452 MC are the high-end skeleton and tourbillion movements seen in the mesmerizing Santos de Cartier Skeleton and Rotonde de Cartier Tourbillion. And for smaller, more elegant watches, the 1917 MC powers pieces like the Tank Louis Cartier.

As far as third-party movements are concerned, ETA powers a few of the older and entry-level models, Piaget powers some ultra-thin dress watches, and the Jaeger-LeCoultre was previously used to power older Tank and Ballon Bleu models. 

Bvlgari uses mostly in-house movements, but they are known to occasionally use third-party ones as well. A couple of their original designs include the BVL 138—the world’s thinnest automatic movement responsible for the iconic Octo Finissibo, and a robust automatic movement used in more classic models, the BVL 191.

The Octo Finissibo series as a whole is undeniably groundbreaking and worth checking out just to admire the intricacy that was required to create something of this magnitude.

Like Cartier, Bvlgari has been known to use ETA movements as well, with the majority of the women’s watches featuring ETA-based quartz movements. 

Both of these brands are responsible for some of the most intricate and highly advanced movements that the market has ever seen. They have earned these achievements due to decades of hard work to adapt and innovate, always looking to stand out in the industry. 

Pricing

Bvlgari’s pricing starts at around $2,700, while Cartier’s starts at $3,350. Because of its wider recognition, Cartier pieces are going to cost more, but does that mean the quality is better? Not necessarily. Both of these brands are going to be some of the highest-quality pieces you can get.

To say one is objectively better than the other would be wrong, but I can say that Cartier watches are more valuable and will most likely be able to hold more value over time.

My guess is that if you’re seriously looking at buying a Cartier or Bvlgari, then prices aren’t the biggest concern. If that were the case, then my best advice is to seriously take a look and consider the benefits both brands bring to the table and determine what suits you best. 

Conclusion

What more is there left to say? I seriously can’t recommend these two brands enough. They are some of the most unique and versatile options out there that prioritize the highest of qualities above all else. True veterans through and through that only get better through each passing decade.

The European style is something that I greatly admire because of the rich history within each piece. The watches communicate so much that it’s hard to choose which one I like more because of how much detail and authenticity each one provides. 

If you’re just getting into these brands, I highly recommend doing your own research about the rich history and different models each one provides so that you can more accurately compare how each one fits—or doesn’t fit—you.

Ultimately, these two brands are objective masterpieces. Treasures of our time that have singlehandedly reshaped the watch industry and have influenced the very culture of our society in more ways than we recognize.

tudor 1926 review

TUDOR 1926 REVIEW: An AFFORDABLE and LuxuriousTITAN

Alex DeVane

March 29, 2025

In the never-ending search for cheaper luxury watches, a lot of pieces come to mind as having some of the best features out there for a fraction of the price.

The Tudor 1926 Opaline Classic is a true gem, shining even brighter than pieces far more expensive. In the watch world, lowering the price cap leaves you with slim pickings.

Fortunately, this is not Tudor’s first time being the underdog, as they’ve become accustomed to residing in Rolex’s shadow. It makes sense.

Tudor, after all, was founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the same man who founded Rolex nearly twenty years before.

While the brand was originally created with the intention of providing cheaper alternatives to Rolex that watch fans could still enjoy, Tudor has now become much more than that, evolving into a titan of the industry and demanding respect across the board. 

History 

Tudor 1926 History

Tudor’s breakaway from the Rolex name originated in 2012 when the Pelagos was released. Before, whenever a new Rolex came out, there was always a Tudor watch with the same exact name—a new Rolex Oyster came out, we would also get a Tudor one, and whenever a new Submariner would drop, a new Tudor Submariner would shortly follow.

That trend changed even more with the release of the Black Bay series, which was largely responsible for giving Tudor its own name and style that has continued on to become the brand we know today. The 1926 follows those same principles.

It is an original watch that comes with breathtaking functions, all at a significantly reduced price, which has become expected from Tudor. The years tick by, and we see Tudor continue to grow in this relatively newfound identity, gracing us with pieces that shine in their own right, with a voice original.

As a fan of authentic pieces, this is truly a blessing. Today, as we take a closer look at the 1926, I want you to understand just how hard this brand has worked to move away from Rolex and start something truly special that allows them to create the pieces that they want to create without relying on anyone else. Let’s dive in. 

Case

A fairly simple, stainless steel case with an elegant polished finish all the way around that feels like a tribute to the old Oyster cases while at the same time being much more curvy and elongated. Something that stands out to me is how thin it is—measuring only 9.5mm thick.

As you would expect, this is a dream for those with smaller wrists, and it also does wonders for the aesthetic, attracting those who prefer slimmer, curvier watches that are much more subtle.

The diameter itself measures anywhere from 39mm-41mm, so it’s not minuscule, but it definitely leans toward the smaller side when you consider how it fits and feels. 

The case back is screwed down, with the traditional “Tudor Geneve” text around the edge. The crown has gotten a lot of praise, however, for being small and blending in with the slimmer design while being tremendously easy to unscrew and operate, which goes a long way in terms of functionality and does your wearers a favor by preventing any headaches or frustration. 

I’ve found that a slim bezel often cursed a watch to be a scratch magnet, and it seems like that would be true for the 1926 bezel. It’s not remarkable in any way, and it doesn’t really offer a layer of protection.

It does its job aesthetically speaking, but I could definitely envision some scratches forming on the glass much more quickly than usual. A sapphire crystal does help, but it’s important to have a bezel that can do some of that heavy tanking as well.

Overall, the case does its job well enough. It’s nothing crazy to write home about, but it seems to me like Tudor was shooting with a much more subtle aesthetic that is meant to complement the highlight of the piece, the dial. 

Dial 

Several watch dials accompany the 1926, but the most notable one by far is the Opaline dial with its stark white color and blue numerals and indices. Looking closer, we can spot the waffle pattern enriching the dial—and, therefore, the entire piece—with an extra layer of detail.

Another notable aspect is the way that the dial catches the light. Holding your wrist one way in the sun changes the entire look, and the blue indices follow this style choice as well, coming alive on your wrist under certain lights. 

The thin nature of the watch does wonders for the dial. Tudor knew what the main focus of this piece would be. They minimized all distractions, causing the wearer to pay full attention to the magnificent pattern that sets the tone for the entire piece.

No date window, but the minimalist design doesn’t require one. Plus, date windows tend to just be an eyesore on a luxurious piece of this caliber. Instead, the blue “Self Winding” text is positioned at the bottom of the dial, forming a smiley face. 

I will say that the simplistic color and waffle pattern are certainly stunning, but the specific blue shade used for the text and indices caught my eye the most. Something about it is so alluring, as it just fits so well with the rest of the aesthetic.

As mentioned before, the bezel does little in terms of security or durability, but part of me prefers a smaller, less obtrusive style that doesn’t overshadow the majestic shade of the hands. They are quite subtle but laced with so much detail that offers much more to digest beyond first glance. 

Needless to say, the dial is a masterpiece, but it is only because of the slim nature and the subtle details that the design choice works as well as it does. I can’t imagine I would feel the same way if this watch was any bigger.

It just puts into perspective how committed Tudor is to their level of detail and how they work hard to check every box with every piece they release.  

Movement 

A heavily modified Calibre 2824 ETA serves as the engine for this piece. It comes with shock absorption and 25 jewels, causing it to tick at 28,000 vph.

Being that this is a third-party movement, this is where Tudor has saved most of its money. A house-made engine would definitely put this piece over the top, but I’m certainly satisfied with the performance of this watch, as ETA has proven to be a very reliable choice for a long time. Plus, a

house-made-movement would make this piece a lot more expensive, so we, as customers, are better off settling for reliability rather than something more luxurious. 

Bracelet

Each link of this stainless steel bracelet is made up of 7 individual pieces—four brushed-over and mid-links and three polished connectors. All of this detail and fine-tuning gives us a highly intricate design that complements the same waffle texture on the dial. 

The bracelet comes with a very short flip-lock clasp, fitting that minimalist vibe. Because of this, the watch is worn far more comfortably. A smart design choice on Tudor’s part because, more often than not, larger clasps tend to be irritating and, in some cases, very painful to wear. 

But sadly, I can’t call this bracelet perfect because there are a few questionable design choices. Firstly, there are no micro-adjustments. It is arguably necessary for daily drivers like these to have micro-adjustments because consumers are purchasing this piece with consistency in mind.

If it proves to be more of a chore to strap on every morning, they would be better off looking for another piece to wear on a day-to-day basis. The bracelet also has no tapering, which is a shame considering the elegant aesthetic that every other portion of the piece communicates so well. 

Overall, I can’t complain too much, and if the watch fits perfectly upon first wear, you’re not going to have too much to complain about either.

But you could argue that a good fit is the most important feature to a consumer. After all, if it hurts to wear the watch, what other reason is there to buy it other than perhaps adding it to an esteemed collection?

Needless to say, the lack of fitting options is disappointing, but being that it will only affect a marginalized portion of people, the rest of the design leaves me walking away rather satisfied. 

On-Wrist Experience

For smaller wrists, the fit is perfect. In fact, most wrists will have zero issues at all, but the lack of micro adjustments will prove to be heartbreaking for the outliers who don’t fit because Tudor was one step away from having a watch that could virtually fit everyone. 

The 1926 leans on the dressier side, but you can wear this watch anywhere and never feel out of place. Elegance shines through and through, but it is still subtle enough to pair with basic everyday clothing like buttoned shirts, jeans, khakis, sweaters, etc.

Because of the thinness and the lack of an obtrusive clasp, this is an extremely comfortable watch that feels very light on the wrist. It keeps that swagger of an authentic Swiss luxury piece while not being too over the top.

A perfect combination for those new to the luxury game, or the Swiss game, for that matter. New wearers will be drawn to the comfort as well as the style, and a simple piece like this will be very easy to grasp for those who are still learning. 

Pricing

You can find the Tudor 1926 from Tudor authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Tudor.

A brand new 1926 Opaline (m91650-0005)can be picked up for $2,225 USD. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 1.5-2k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion

So there we have it. The 1926 is truly a stunner, a true testament to Tudor’s legacy. Tudor has been in this industry for too long to still be revered as the “poor man Rolex,” and it is pieces like these that prove they have left that mindset in the past and are now only focused on providing high-quality, unique pieces that further cement the Tudor name as a force to be reckoned with.

This is one of those pieces that is very easy to recommend because—all things considered—it’s relatively cheap and simple, has a design that appeals to almost everyone, and a simple upkeep that will prove very easy for new watch-lovers to become accustomed to.

It’s a true beauty that proves not everything has to be over the top. Things can be simple and precise while still providing a high level of detail and class that will leave customers satisfied, and this watch fully embodies that idea.

tudor black bay 36 review

Tudor Black Bay 36 Review (Read BEFORE You Buy!)

Alex DeVane

March 21, 2025

Tudor has a history of not getting the respect it deserves from the industry. In the ’90s, many viewed them as cheap Rolex copycats, often overlooking what they brought to the table and instead favoring other Rolex-like companies such as Seiko and Tag Heuer, which seemed to offer far more originality and unique characteristics to their pieces than anything Tudor was doing at the time. This ultimately led to the brand leaving the US in 1996. 

In this article, we will be looking at how Tudor made their valiant return to the US after discovering themselves, particularly focusing on how the Black Bay became one of their most iconic pieces and is arguably the most sought-after Tudor on the market today. 

History 

Tudor Black Bay 36

In 2013, Tudor returned to the US, this time straying away from copycats and perfecting their own designs, slowly evolving into the brand we know today. First introduced in 2017, the Black Bay 36 was originally offered in black, with a 41mm version alongside it.

Being part of the Black Bay line, neither of these pieces could match the water resistance found on the divers, but 150M deep is still more than enough resistance for the average wearer. Plus, people liked the Black Bay line for other reasons.

Eventually, the navy blue variant came into the spotlight in 2018 and was immediately looked upon with favorable nostalgia from those reminiscent of pieces like the Tudor Subs from the 70s and 80s. The 36mm version seemed to enthrall fans, sharing many similarities with 36mm Rolex’s but having just enough personality to give itself a well-respected name. 

Getting a closer look at this watch was a treat, and I was left exceedingly impressed with the design choices Tudor made to set them apart from the competition.

While in the past, their originality might have been questionable, I think it’s safe to say Tudor has redeemed itself for previous errors by flipping the watch industry on its head and putting in the extra work to make themselves one of the most well-respected brands on the market. 

Case

Every review I’ve seen of this watch raves about how this is one of the most well-balanced and properly proportioned cases of all time.

And I must say, after firsthand experience, I would have to wholeheartedly agree. While the Black Bay comes in three sizes (32, 36, 41), the 36mm is the true star of the show, which is what we will be focusing on today.

While I haven’t dealt personally with the two other sizes, the common consensus is that the 32mm is a tad cramped, and the 41mm is a bit spaced out, leaving the 36mm to find the perfect median.

It is worth pointing out that by today’s standards, 36mm is considered on the smaller side of sports watches, which may leave those of you with larger wrists with no other option. I have no doubt that the 41mm can satisfy all of your needs should that be the only size that fits; today, we are simply focusing on the 36mm in particular. So, let’s dive in.

The case features impeccable finishing, which really puts into perspective how much detail is intertwined with this piece. It has slab sides polished to effortlessly catch light and gleam like unblemished glass.

Being that it’s a thinner watch, the slab sides are proportioned to accommodate the rest of the sides and subtly do their part, taking extra care not to feel too clunky.

The crown breaks through the stainless steel surface, imposing itself as one of the signature trademarks of the Black Bay line. The rose logo is a subtle throwback to one of Tudor’s earlier heritage models, which plays on the nostalgic strings even more. 

The fixed bezel comes highly polished and glistens brighter than the radial brushing of the lugs, reinforcing the aesthetic with a nice contrast.

The sapphire lens fits the bright polishing, shining just as bright under certain lighting conditions, causing the watch to shimmer on your wrist, and the closed case back keeps everything nice and tight, offering flawless protection. 

Dial

Each dial color is beautiful in its own right, but the semi-gloss blue dial is extremely eye-catching. Again, like the sizing, the Tudor Black Bay finds the perfect median concerning the shade of blue—not too dark and not too light, seemingly transforming on the wrist when exposed to certain light.

The indices are slightly raised, standing 0.5mm tall, giving an extra layer of detail while highlighting the polished sides that also reflect light. The indices caught my eye because they are a mixture of shapes.

At the 12:00, there is a narrow triangle facing downwards; at the 3:00 6:00, and 9:00, slender rectangles disrupt the circular pattern, providing a unique sense of elegance and a nice geometric aesthetic that is extremely satisfying to look at.

Each index also comes equipped with a white lume that glows a low green in the dark, helping with nocturnal visibility. It also features a sapphire crystal up top, which pretty much guarantees that the Black Bay will not scratch under most conditions. 

The “TUDOR” text is in a perfect position, not too large to steal any attention but just noticeable enough to give you something else to look at. Below, the “ROTOR SELF-WINDING” text is curved, which kind of looks like a little smiley face.

The elegant, snowflake hands sweep over all of this, combining a straightforward, slender minute hand with a diamond-shaped hour hand that’s a great deal fatter. The second hand is very subtle despite the diamond-shaped lume plot towards the tip. 

I can understand how people tend to scoff at snowflake hands, but I feel they match the setting that Tudor is trying to create and stand out as one of the most dynamic features of this piece. In my opinion, it’s rare for snowflake hands not to hit the spot.

They are highly legible and fit the tone of this watch perfectly. Plus, they give a blocky feel that is actually quite charming to look at, complementing the geometric shapes of the indices. 

Movement

The ETA 2824 movement powers the Black Bay. Today, most Tudor watches have shifted to in-house movement, but the Black Bay is one of the only remaining pieces that still uses an outsourced movement.

Tudor has actually modified the ETA 2824 to keep things as accurate as possible. The movements are regulated to COSC standards but do not go through the certification process, causing Tudor to slightly improve upon the original movement, allowing the Black Bay to tick at a resounding -1 sec/day. 

Straps

I recommend choosing the oyster-style bracelet, though you can opt for the watch on a strap. Not only is the bracelet cheaper than going out and buying another strap, but it looks better, too. The fit and finish is excellent, mimicking the bracelet with brushed surfaces and flanked sides.

The strap starts at 19mm and finishes at 16mm when it meets the clasp. The clasp is fairly wide, measuring 17mm, and has a vintage-looking taper that makes the watch quite comfortable to wear.

The Tudor shield shines on the back of the clasp with three positions for micro-adjusting the bracelet. While researching what others thought of this piece, I noticed a common theme of people being a little annoyed with how few fitting options there are.

19mm is a fairly uncommon size, so you may end up searching for bracelets that accommodate your wrist more comfortably. It’s also worth pointing out that the Tudor does not currently offer a half-link option for the Black Bay, making the search for perfect comfort a little more complicated. 

Of course, this is a minor complaint. The curves of the bracelet and case still make for a smooth fit, so, depending on your wrist size, you may suffer no problems at all. 

On Wrist Experience

To put it frankly, this watch is a delight to wear. It’s not perfect—nothing is—but it’s going to be difficult to find anyone with any major complaints.

Some advice I will give is that if you have a wrist smaller than 6.5 inches, you will have virtually no problems at all finding a perfect fit, but those of you with significantly larger wrists may need to size up. The oyster case (in most instances) guarantees an esteemed level of comfort, and—I’ll say it again—the proportions are genuinely some of the best I’ve ever seen.

People will undoubtedly be drawn to the watch’s slim measurements, but to call this watch slim itself feels wrong.

It manages to do something I’ve never seen before; it disguises itself as a thinner, more luxurious watch, but on the wrist, it makes its presence known in the best of ways, coming alive as a true dive watch.

What Tudor does is combine all the intricate details and measurements with a simple yet effective aesthetic, giving their wearers quite the surprise when they find out the Black Bay offers so much more than they previously thought. Numbers don’t always give the full picture.

The 36mm strikes a perfect balance between elegance and sportiness, securing a spot in Tudor’s collection as a truly timeless piece. 

The Black Bay essentially resides on two different sides of the spectrum. On one end, it oozes in comfort and elegance, making it the perfect watch for any formal occasion. On the other hand, it is a true dive watch, dubbing it fit for day-to-day wear with authentic utilitarian roots.

This gives us (once again) a perfect combination. Realistically, you never have to take this watch off, no matter where you go. It’s not one of those fragile pieces that you always have to worry about getting damaged, nor is it one of those clunky bricks that are virtually indestructible but look like an entire cinder block on your wrist.

The theme for the Black Bay seems to be finding the perfect median, and it has truly impressed me with how much it was able to do just that. 

Pricing

You can find the Tudor Black Bay 36 from Tudor authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Tudor. A brand new Black Bay 36 can be picked up for $4,050 USD. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 3 to 4k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion 

This watch is beautiful; it fits great, and its versatility allows for constant wear, which is great when considering the price of watches like these. Tudor has indeed come a long way since departing the American market in 1996.

They have forged a new name for themselves, one that is now known for creative, original pieces that not only stand out in and of themselves but define the respective genre they belong to. In my opinion, the Black Bay is a perfect introduction to luxury timepieces.

Relatively cheap compared to other watches in the market, I would consider the Black Bay a jack of all trades and pretty much guarantee that anyone who at least respects the watch world will find something they adore on this piece. 

Tudor is one of the most consistent brands of the modern day. With how much they had to go to get to where they are, it’s going to be difficult to find a piece that falls short of the standard they have set for themselves.

The Black Bay is a treasure, and some already consider it a classic, but as the years go on, this piece will undoubtedly take its rightful place in history books as one of the most appealing watches of all time.

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