Author: Alex DeVane

Many horology enthusiasts and collectors appreciate the aesthetic appeal of a pristine timepiece. A fine polished watch can elevate a piece’s look, making the elegant stainless steel shimmer as it sits on your wrist. Polishing can restore a watch to its former glory, removing scratches and blemishes that develop over time. This can lead to an increase in resale value, as well as enhance the visual appeal. 

Like everything, however, polishing has drawbacks. In some instances, polishing can significantly alter a watch’s original design features, such as bevels and edges, potentially erasing iconic designs or historical significance engraved on the piece. Over-polishing can also thin the case, weakening the structural integrity and, in some cases, diminishing the value.  

Understanding the pros and cons of watch polishing helps collectors make educated decisions about their precious pieces. It also helps them balance the desire for a flawless aesthetic with the preservation of the watch’s original design.  

Why is Watch Polishing Important?

An essential part of watch maintenance is ensuring that your watch is in the most pristine condition possible. You’ve invested a lot of money into your piece, and part of that investment requires you to maintain its appearance and functionality. Polishing restores the watch’s original luster and shine, enhancing its overall appearance. This is particularly important for luxury watches, where the visual appeal can make all the difference in desirability and value.

Take a sunburst dial, for example. Its reflective nature means that even the most minor scratches or imperfections can be quite noticeable. Because the finish is designed to reflect light, any blemish can disrupt the smooth pattern of the dial’s surface, but polishing these dials helps restore them to the original vision the watchmaker had when they designed the piece. 

A guilloche dial’s complex design can benefit greatly from regular polishing as well. 

Deep scratches can compromise the intricate design, so it’s necessary to help maintain the detail that the guilloche is known for. Otherwise, the significance and value are depleted, and the guilloche dial loses its flare. 

Why you should polish your watch 

Depending on who you ask, polishing could prove to be the most valuable benefit to your timepiece. Some enthusiasts may insist upon a pristine-looking, top-of-the-line, well-polished watch, while someone else may prefer something a little more old school. Regardless of how you feel, there are some objective benefits from having a well-polished watch. 

The most obvious benefit is that polishing restores shine and erases blemishes that may have built up over time. If you wear your most prized timepiece every day, it’s guaranteed that, eventually, it will start to look worn and dull. A fresh polish can erase any sense of wear and tear and restore your piece to its former glory. 

A well-polished watch can also hold its value for a longer period of time. An expensive timepiece could be a long-term investment. If you plan to trade or sell your watch in the future, you’ll want to make sure it’s in pristine condition so you can charge the most money possible. 

Corrosion is one of the most common ways watches can deteriorate. The build-up of dirt and grime can completely diminish the look and value of your piece. Polishing can completely remove the harmful effects of corrosion, ensuring that your watch stays in its healthiest condition. 

Good polishing can also improve the clarity and legibility of the dial. With constant use, your piece’s dial becomes harder to read over time. Dirt builds up and smudges the crystal, and before you know it, the key function of the watch is deemed illegible. Polishing can remove dirt from the glass face of the dial, returning full legibility to your piece so that you can go about your day-to-day life always knowing the time. 

And finally, a well-polished piece perhaps serves the greatest purpose of all: personal satisfaction. What’s the point of investing in a watch you’re disappointed with every time you look at your wrist? Polishing can restore the aesthetic you originally fell in love with so that you feel pride whenever you look down and gaze at your beautiful piece. 

Why you should not polish your watch

While extremely beneficial to the watch’s overall aesthetics, polishing does come with its fair share of risks. Improper polishing techniques can scratch or damage the watch’s surface, particularly for delicate materials like acrylic or certain finishes. 

There’s also the risk of the watch losing its value. For vintage or collector watches, polishing can remove the original patina, which some collectors hold to an extremely high value. There’s also the risk of the polishing completely erasing a historical mark or engraving embedded within the piece, taking away the historical significance it may have previously held. 

The threat of overpolishing is ever-present as frequent polishing risks thinning the metal on cases and bracelets, leading to structural issues over time. The loss of aesthetics is one thing, but the damage to the watch itself is a much more severe risk that enthusiasts should be mindful of.

Warranty concerns pose a threat as well. Some manufacturers may void warranties if a watch is polished improperly, as it can affect the watch’s integrity and diminish its overall value. So, if you ever intend to resale or refund your piece, the number one priority is to ensure there is no damage or blemishes from improper polishing that could deter potential buyers. 

Another popular reason to avoid polishing your watch is simply personal preference. Some enthusiasts prefer a watch’s character as it ages, preferring a more worn look rather than a polished finish. 

There’s objectively no wrong choice when it comes to whether or not you want your watch to be polished. It all depends on outliers and personal preferences. The only thing you must be sure of is that you are getting your watch polished by somebody who knows what they are doing. 

Should you polish your watch yourself? 

If you have an experienced hand, polishing your watch yourself can have tremendous advantages and can be extremely convenient. 

The first clear advantage is affordability. DIY polishing saves you money compared to professional services. It also ensures that you can polish in your own time, basing your services completely on your own schedule. 

As with any DIY project, it can be a rewarding experience to learn about the intricacy of your watch and how to care for it. Just be sure that you have all the proper tools and that you know enough not to completely destroy the watch. Developing your skill through a DIY polishing project can be very satisfying when you successfully restore your watch’s shine and finally understand how to properly unlock the full potential of your piece. 

There are some drawbacks to DIY polishing as well, the obvious being the risk of damage. Scratching and damaging the watch becomes very easy without the proper tools and technique. Only pursue a DIY project if you have a careful hand and are willing to take the time to learn the proper methods. 

Of course, with your lack of expertise, professionals may prove to be the more efficient route. They have the capabilities and the experience to handle all sorts of pieces and the proper tools to safely polish your watch. You may not be privy to everything needed to properly restore your piece, but professionals know exactly what they are dealing with the minute you bring it in. 

As mentioned before, over-polishing is one of the most harmful things that can happen to your piece, and it’s a lot easier to over-polish than you might think. Let’s assume you know the tools you need as well as the proper techniques, but how do you know when to stop? You could end up doing everything right, but your watch still winds up in a worse condition than when you started because you didn’t know when to stop polishing. This problem obviously can be fixed by going to a professional, but—as with everything—you can fix it yourself if you take the time to learn. 

The primary issue is time. Sure, if you spend hours researching and practicing, you can mimic what a professional does relatively well, but the simple question is: is it worth it? Some of you may want to simply enjoy your piece and quit worrying whether or not it’s at risk of being damaged. In that case, a professional is the way to go. 

At the same time, some of you may be committed to learning every step and crave the satisfaction of gradually seeing your watch returned to its previous elegance. The only thing I advise is to be careful. There is really no wrong choice here, as long as you are actually committed to learning and are willing to put in the hours to learn the skill yourself. 

Conclusion

The decision to polish your watch isn’t as much of an objective yes or no as it is on personal preferences and outlying situations. It ultimately depends on the level of importance you place on your individual piece. Does it need polishing? If it does, is it worth learning by yourself? Would the cost of polishing be worth it? You can only answer these questions. 

Some factors that can sway your decision-making are understanding the watch’s material, its historical significance, and the individual priorities in watch care. Before you make your decision, be sure you have a clear understanding of the improvements that can be made should you polish it, the disadvantages and risks that could arise, and above all, learn everything there is to know about your own watch and let that govern your decision-making process. 

By balancing all this information, you should come to a clear choice on whether or not you should pursue the avenue of watch polishing. The best advice that I can give is the simple fact that what works for someone else may not work for you. If anyone tells you that there is an objective answer to this question, they are plain wrong. Just do the research and take the time to learn, and the decision will become clear.

Nature and culture are two prevalent topics that serve as fundamental bases for Japanese society. They complement each other indubitably. Nature weaves itself in and out of Japanese culture, and in turn, the culture pays its respects by holding nature to an elevated standard. 

The Grand Seiko SBGJ271 takes this concept and recognizes the beauty that can be achieved by combining nature and culture in ways that make you appreciate the immense value each brings to the table. The way in which we live our lives is a reflection of the nature around us. 

The snowy angelic dial also gives off a reflection, perhaps symbolizing how this industrialized world’s greatest feat is simply the landscape on which they reside, something completely out of their control. 

The whiteness of the dial resembles the flooring of Japanese households and Buddhist temples, which mirror the ground after a fresh snowfall, yet again alluding to the idea that everything mankind articulates is simply a byproduct of our planet.

Seiko brings its grand vision to life in this stunning piece. The watch embodies a wintery feel—a quiet, desolate, snowy landscape untrodden by man and never thawing. Its frosty, sharp design is simply beautiful, making it one of my personal favorite Grand Seiko pieces. 

As we explore the expertly crafted mechanics that make this watch stand out, pay attention to how each aspect of the design pays tribute to Japanese culture and recognize how important the Japanese deem nature, as they pay homage to it at every turn. 

History

In 2023, the SBGJ271 became a part of the Elegance GMT 4 seasons collection, joining pieces that characterize the earliest Grand Seiko creations, fitting in with the soft design and round structure of its counterparts. It’s very similar to the SBGJ249, sharing similarities to the bracelet and case. 

However, where the 249 symbolizes the rainy season, the 271 most notably characterizes the winter. Both watches keep true to the message the Elegance collection attempts to convey, which is that everything always has multiple layers, and there is always much more than meets the eye in every piece. 

Case 

Inspired by the original 62GS case but fitted with more modern dimensions, the case has a diameter of 39.5mm, a lug-to-lug of 46.9mm, and a thickness of 14.1mm. It is made of flawless stainless steel, and the entire case has a Zaratsu finish, giving it a stunning presence. Shiny and elegant, the stainless steel laces the whole piece in a soft, luxurious style, like freshly fallen snow.

Keeping with the winter theme, the box-domed sapphire crystal sits elevated, like a thin layer of ice above a frozen lake. I’ve always been a fan of the box-domed style, as I feel it gives a vintage feel to it, as opposed to the way other crystals sit, not to mention that it offers another layer of protection, keeping the dial from getting scratched. The bezel tremendously compliments it, with its curved, well-polished edges perfectly blending with the smooth, icy layer of the dome.

The vintage-style non-screw-down crown resides at the 3 position. It sits discreetly but does not diminish the stunning beauty of the Zaratsu-finished stainless steel. The watch’s powerful 9S86 is visible through the see-through case back, giving a pleasing view of the piece’s heart and giving perspective on just how talented these watchmakers are. 

See-throughs have always been my preference, as I prefer the more open and intricate feel that comes with admiring the mechanical portion of my watch as well as the aesthetics. 

Overall, the case does its job very well. It gives off the unmistakable aesthetic of a fresh winter, blending the icy style with a vintage design. Its ultimate goal, however, is to highlight the real star of the show: the dial. 

Dial 

Reminiscent of lacquered Japanese flooring, the dial’s stark white coloring is brilliant and bold. The unique pattern combines modern design while also incorporating the vintage theme the rest of the watch is striving for. The team at Grand Seiko decided they wanted to embody the look of an outdoor Buddhist temple reflecting the freshly fallen snow residing on the trees above. 

They combined the unmistakable beauty of a fresh winter with something essential to Japanese culture, giving the dial a beautiful aesthetic and a symbolic tone that hovers over the rest of the piece. 

The dial has the standard traditional GMT 4 seasons collection layout, with the 24-hour markers cramped toward the center. But this piece has a unique black-colored GMT hand that we aren’t used to seeing from other GMT pieces, as most GMT hands have vibrant colors. The bold black contrasts the stark white in a sophisticated manner that causes both colors to expand to their full aesthetic potential. 

The markers are a gold bar style, with two residing at the 12, 9, and 6 positions instead of one, while a smaller marker can be found at the 3 position right next to the date window. A dark silver GS logo sits in the middle of the snow, complementing the dark GMT hand while contrasting the white dial. 

Overall, the dial alone advocates for purchasing the entire piece. It looks incredible in its own right and elevates everything else on the watch, bringing a style that feels like an old vintage piece. The unique texture is what highlights the dial for me. 

I love how watchmakers threaded bits of their own culture and how it reflects the beauty of the seasons. Not to mention, rich white is one of my favorite dial colors. This hits every box. Whether you’re looking for boldness, elegance, a vintage feel, or you love the symbolism and how the piece reflects the culture from which it came, this watch undoubtedly is for you. 

Movement

Powered by a 9S86 36000 Hi-Beat caliber, you can expect traditional Grand Seiko automatic watch movement, functioning at 36000 beats per hour. It uses a special alloy for the mainspring and hairspring, allowing it to achieve a 55-hour power reserve while still maintaining 36000 beats. The accuracy measures at +5 -3 seconds per day, and it is a GMT watch, allowing for a simple time-zone adjustment whenever you please. 

Accuracy is something Grand Seiko fans never have to worry about. Even though the revolutionary Spring Drive doesn’t fuel this piece, you can pretty much guarantee that all Seiko watches are going to deliver the most accurate reading possible while moving in a smooth, eloquent manner. This piece is, by all means, no exception. The elegant black hands subtly tick across the dial, gracefully showing off their mechanical prowess in a way only Grand Seiko can emulate. 

Mechanical ingenuity is far more important than the aesthetic of the watch. Without a sound, mechanical base, the rest of the piece is deemed useless. Thankfully, Seiko has been giving us the best of both worlds for generations. The level of mechanical flawlessness combined with Seiko’s elegant craftsmanship in every piece shouldn’t be the norm. Yet, they continue to pride themselves on the quality of each piece, which seems to improve with each release. 

Bracelet

The stainless steel bracelet’s five-link design features a matte finish on the innermost and outermost links and a Zaratsu finish on the smaller, middle ones. It is a classic Grand Seiko bracelet with a mixture of brushed and polished surfaces. 

The clasp is a simple fold with pushers featuring the Grand Seiko engraving in bold print. A simple and comfortable clasp that snugly fits the wrist. There are no micro-adjustments to find the perfect fit, but the half-links and screw links may make adjustments a little more simpler. 

However, the basic fitting should accustom most wrists comfortably enough. I can’t see many problems arising unless you have a uniquely sized wrist. The 19mm lug width may prove difficult to find straps, but the drilled lugs offer an easier way to swap them out. 

The sleek, smooth, glistening silver comfortably blends with the whiteness of the dial. It’s a very subtle feel but one that gets its message across all the same. It encapsulates the feeling of a soft winter, with hardly any distracting flamboyant features that take away from the tranquil atmosphere set by the rest of the piece. 

Rooted in solemn spirituality, it fits that every aspect of the piece embodies a quiet place of worship. Pieces like this, which take the form of a less dramatic sense of beauty, have always been more eye-catching. Watches that stay quiet usually speak a lot louder to me than something more dramatic, which is why I am drawn to this piece. 

With the greyness of the smoothly polished stainless steel and the stark white of the dial come a foreboding, powerful sensation that everything beautiful mankind has created originates from the earth itself. 

Even places of worship are subject to this sensation, with the temple floors being covered in snow, causing us to step back and admire the planet’s beauty while holding ourselves accountable to preserve this beauty.

On the Wrist 

The dimensions make this an extremely wearable watch on a variety of wrists. With an adjustable strap, it fits wrists as small as 6 inches and as high as 7.5 inches, so there aren’t going to be many issues for most wearers. 

The domed sapphire crystal, however, makes this watch significantly thicker than you might expect. A little too thick to slide under cuffs, making it more of a sportier wear that can be worn on dressier occasions. 

Practical and legible, with a GMT feature that can easily adjust to fit any timezone, this piece can be worn daily and looks beautiful with anything. The smooth silver goes with any lighter shade of clothing, but it can also beautifully contrast with a darker shirt. 

This piece is one of the rare instances where it can fit just as comfortably in a casual environment as well as a dresser environment, which is why I think that this is the perfect watch for any occasion. If you were going to buy only one, then this would be my pick. Not to mention that this is one of my favorite designs Seiko has ever produced. 

The stoic symbolism combined with the dazzling subtle shade of grey causes it to stand out among other pieces of similar design. The chain links are crafted to perfection and fit comfortably, and despite the thickness, it is an extremely lightweight wear that makes me forget it’s on my wrist. 

I wholeheartedly believe that this watch offers everything you need in a Seiko piece. It takes themes from their previous designs and merges them to give you an authentic Grand Seiko experience. They truly never disappoint. Each masterpiece tells its own story, weaving its narrative through the links of the bracelet. I simply cannot recommend this watch enough. 

Pricing

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGJ271 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGJ271 costs can be picked up for $7,100. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 5-6k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion 

What more is there to say? This piece is not only beautiful, but it tells an entire story while sitting on your wrist. Seiko blends their obsession with nature and culture together and gives us a beautiful synopsis of what it means to live on this planet. 

The winter is harsh, but there is beauty to be found in the cold. When snow falls, it elevates the things it graces, bringing beauty through subtlety. This watch does the same. Bringing a solemn feel that mirrors a Japanese winter, it’s in a league of its own as it quietly stuns its audience with its sleek, silvery-white beauty. 

Seiko reminds us that while they pride themselves in making the most beautiful pieces possible, the greatest beauty of all comes from nature. They have gotten everything that man has made from the stunning planet they live in. 

Taking inspiration from the seasons, the trees, the oceans, the forests. Every dazzling fragment of Japan has been incorporated into Grand Seiko pieces in one way or another over the years, and this piece is no exception. 

As Grand Seiko continues to evolve, fans should hold their hopes high. Seiko continues to prove itself as one of those companies that seem to hold onto their core principles through the test of time while also adapting to improve every new piece that they release.

I have yet to be disappointed and find it highly unlikely that they will ever falter on their mission to aim for perfect craftsmanship and poetic symbolism, causing each piece to take on its own identity and come alive on your wrist.

Attuning themselves to the authenticity of the changing seasons, Grand Seiko has made it their goal to speak with a voice that embodies the unwavering beauty of Japanese nature. Although the seasons may change, there is no reason we can’t celebrate the turning of the leaves and the chill of the air. 

Grand Seiko extends an invitation to the autumn weather with the SBGW285, aka the Byōka, which is named–quite literally–after a period when the late summer months begin to shift into autumn. The aesthetic of this piece mimics that change of season. The deep, green dial that you will come to learn about references the end of summer, a time when Japan’s vegetation is at its ripest. 

In Shigushuiki, where this watch was made, the summer is short, and the transition occurs at the end of August with early signs of autumn in the air. At this time, the leaves on the trees grow increasingly dark, which is what this style represents. The SBGW285 captures this change perfectly on your wrist, its favorable dark colors etching themselves in your mind so that every time you look down, you’re reminded of this beautiful time of the year. 

While we explore the intricate mechanics and the unique style of luxury that shrouds this piece, we will learn all about its deep symbolism and significance to Japanese culture, putting into perspective just how much passion Seiko pours into every watch they create. 

History

The Elegance Collection has the honor of being the home of the first-ever Grand Seiko timepiece. Since 1960, the company has been soaring, producing works of art that seemingly grow in quality with each release. 

In 2022, the SBGW285 was a welcome addition to the elegance collection, joining the ranks of legendary pieces that serve as a foundation for the entire company. 

Case

This vintage-style case will please those of you who prefer a smaller build, measuring in at a very compact 37.3mm diameter, 44.3mm lug-to-lug, and 11.7mm thickness. Taking inspiration from the original Grand Seiko watch from 1960, this stainless steel case is complete with mirror-polished finishing, giving the watch an authentic and elegant character that stays true to the company’s roots. 

The lugs are arched, giving it a curvy texture that complements the rounded case profile. The push-pull crown jets out from the side of the case, only offering 30m of water resistance, which is acceptable given the dressier nature of the watch; you’re not going to be diving in swimming pools with it on. I would complain, however, that the crown is a little too bulky compared to the slim dimensions of the rest of the watch. 

A see-through case back with 6 screws allows you to view the 9S64 manual winding movement, serving as the heart of the piece that powers each mechanical movement, giving it that flawless Grand Seiko feel. Sitting smooth and well-furnished, the shallow bezel resides below the elevated sapphire crystal, a beautiful, ascended double-dome that makes up most of the watch’s thickness. 

The contrast between the sapphire crystal’s heightened, bubble-like features and the bezel’s subtler nature highlights the entire case, giving it a unique flare that immediately catches the eye. 

With the majority of the thickness coming from the crystal, the rest of the case is given the privilege of being a little slimmer than we’re used to, which (depending on your taste) could be a make-or-break feature when choosing a luxury watch to purchase. 

Dial

Fitting with the “end of summer” symbolism, the Byōka’s dial is a rich, dark green that can appear almost black under certain lighting conditions. As summertime comes to a close, the winds may begin to develop a chill, but the scenery around you is still green and full of life. 

This dial embraces the change of seasons and displays what makes summer so beautiful. The dial is laced with a frosted texture pattern that blends nicely with the hand-finished indices’ polished surfaces. It is inspired by the Japanese kirazuri painting technique, which involves adding glittering mica flakes to print, resulting in a glittering dynamic surface. 

The kirazuri texture is designed to invoke the feeling of dark green leaves that begin to fall at the end of summer. In my opinion, the frosted texture gives the appearance of some foreign exotic material, like a high-quality piece of leather, that gives the watch a look of its own. 

When you combine that with the slender, stainless steel indices, it all makes for a luxurious recipe that immediately attracts the eye, not to mention the flawlessly crafted hands that round out the entire look, sweeping across the dial in an elegant motion. 

The Grand Seiko logo is very shallow and subtle, not too distracting but adding another aesthetic layer to the dial. This piece lacks a date window, which–to some–encourages the undeniable beauty of a minimalistic look, while others will miss the practicality of always knowing the date with a glance at their wrist. 

In my opinion, pieces like these that prioritize luxury greatly benefit from the entire “less is more” idea. Crowding a dial can sometimes harm a piece’s overall appearance, distracting us so much that we forget to embrace the beauty of the craftsmanship. The SBGW285 benefits from a minimalistic look, and the simple elegance of the dial breathes life into the entire piece. 

Movement

The hand-wound movement is powered by the Caliber 9S64, another testimony to the undeniable simplicity this watch radiates. It’s very well-decorated and adjusted at six different points to ensure extreme accuracy, which puts it a step above COSC. With a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a normal usage accuracy of +10 to -1 seconds per day, the six different positions of measurement guarantee that you are getting the most accurate reading possible. 

The 72-hour power reserve makes this one of the most practical office watches. You can take it off to go home on the weekend, and it’ll still be the envy of all your coworkers on Monday morning when you put it back on. The see-through case-back allows for a satisfying view of the 9S64, allowing you to observe all its intricacy as it tirelessly works to provide a technologically sound experience, combining high-end technology with Seiko’s stand-out taste for perfect craftsmanship. 

Manual movements are ideal for this style of watch, as they fit the simplistic tone that the SBGW285 aims to embody, but don’t get anything confused, while a manual movement may not compare to the powerhouse Spring Drive, the Caliber 9S64 packs a punch of its own incorporating genius precision that every Seiko watchmaker is equipped with. 

Straps

The deep, forest-green alligator straps with a beautiful tight grain set this watch apart, giving it its unique look. Equipped with a glossy finish, the strap shimmers in the light and looks almost glazed, with an underlying style that is only revealed when exposed to certain lighting. 

Again, incorporating the idea that summer is coming to an end, the richness of the straps accompany the fine-tuned dial and case, rounding out the piece in perfect symbolism. The calfskin leather on the bottom perfectly complements the dial and is one of the most comfortable options for wristwear. 

Lightweight and smooth to the touch, it’s hardly noticeable on the wrist, and the pattern on the leather adds another layer of depth. The pin buckle with the vintage Grand Seiko logo is ideal for a vintage-inspired dress watch. While the drilled lugs make it easy to change straps, the 19mm lug width makes it difficult to find ones that will fit. 

But one of the watch’s most notable features is the strap’s high-quality leather that perfectly matches the rest of the watch, so if you want to change the house strap, you’re going to have trouble finding something that can top it. 

On Wrist Experience

The SBGW285 is a true, classic dress watch suitable for men and women alike. Its sleek, curvy build gives it a cleaner aesthetic due to the fact that it isn’t as bulky. The compact size and shape mean that anyone with a 5.5-inch wrist and above can wear it. However, it would start to look small on those with a 7.5-inch wrist or larger. People crave dress watches because they are a suitable match with any formal attire. 

They are an easy way to enhance your entire look, and the deep green dial and strap will go perfectly with any formal dresswear you have in mind. Paired with the fact that the watch is thin enough to slide under any dress cuff, I can think of no better watch that better suits the needs of those who prioritize style. 90% of the time, the green dial will appear black while it is on your wrist. 

While indoors, the lighting will make the watch appear much darker than it actually is. Whether that is your preference or not is up to you, but outside, under the right lighting conditions, the dial will explode, displaying the dark green to full effect. 

I personally like how the watch can take different shapes depending on the lighting conditions, but again, if that is not your preference, you may not enjoy this watch as much as others will. The strap also comes alive while on the wrist. 

The glistening glaze of the smooth, green leather can be quite reflective and vibrant when exposed to certain lights and quite dormant and reclusive when exposed to others. Regardless of the light, however, the watch still compliments the dial and case perfectly while also being easy to adjust and incredibly comfortable. 

My favorite part of the watch is how Grand Seiko weaved the symbolistic changing of seasons into their piece. The dark green looks beautiful in and of itself, but once you know what it represents, it makes the color all the more impactful. Pieces like this make us appreciate the turn of the seasons. 

Whether we are ready for it or not, change is inevitable. Grand Seiko encourages us to focus on the beauty of change and the impact it can have on us and everyone around us. 

Pricing

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGW285 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGW285 costs can be picked up for $4,800. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 3-4k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion

Each passing season, Seiko gives us new reasons to appreciate their fine-tuned craftsmanship and unmistakable attention to detail. We’ve seen time and time again that nature is a prevalent theme in every piece Seiko releases. In Shizukuishi–where the watches are made–Grand Seiko’s studio is tucked away in a quiet little forest in northern Japan. 

With the stunning beauty of Japanese nature all around them, it would make sense that the inspiration for these pieces would come from simply looking out the window. Nature is powerful, and the unmistakable impact it has had on the craftsmen who forge these stunning pieces cannot be stated enough. 

Inspiration is passed down the line, as one craftsman inspires another, but Grand Seiko reminds us that the greatest inspiration of all comes from right outside our front door. I love symbolistic pieces that focus on the natural beauty in the world. 

Seiko encourages us to never stop looking for this natural beauty because it’s up to us to preserve the art that can be found in the simplest of things. Overall, great piece. A simple take on an elegant manual dress watch that packs its own unique punch. If you’re into green and looking for something comfortable and stylish above all else, this is the perfect piece.

With the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko sought to modernize its models and appropriately adapt to changing times by dramatically refining its designs, introducing a theme of contemporary boldness embedded within every piece. 

Keeping true to what makes Grand Seiko such an icon while adopting modernized visuals and mechanics, the SBGE283 stands as a testament to how an already timeless brand can continue to be a leading figure in innovation. 

Incorporating a GMT hand, allowing a second timezone to be read at a glance, and a Spring Drive movement, which glides swiftly and silently across the dial, this watch deems itself fit for every occasion, as its elegance is only matched by its practicality. 

Regarded as the sibling of the popular “Mistflake” watch (aka the SBGE285), the 283 shares many similarities, including being made of the same high-intensity titanium, which causes both watches to feel significantly lighter on the wrist. 

They also share the same Spring Drive, GMT features, and very similar measurements. The overall aesthetic is nearly identical, with the only real defining feature of the 283 being that the dial is a darker black compared to the silvery grey of the Mistflake. That being said, these watches were purposely designed to have identical features. 

The question of “Which one is better?” boils down to personal preference, style choice, and other outliers. There can’t be a debate on which performs better because they were designed to perform the same. Keep in mind that this review will exclusively focus on the SBGE283, but all of the intricate mechanics, such as movement and measurements, can also be applied to the Mistflake as well.

History

In 2020, the Evolution 9 Style redefined everything we love about Grand Seiko. Keeping the charm found in all Grand Seiko pieces but providing us with a new standard of legibility, comfort, and beauty, the Evolution 9 Style sought to remind a new generation of watch lovers how revolutionary each and every piece strives to be. 

Two years later, in August 2022, the SBGE283 joined the Evolution 9 family, further adding to the already breathtaking library. Prioritizing aesthetics, legibility, and comfort, the SBGE283, at its core, aligns with what Grand Seiko aims to achieve with the Evolution 9 collection, which is the self-proclaimed pursuit of precision and mastery, as every piece further reinforces that the most meaningful evolution begins inside. 

Case

Let’s start by looking at the high-intensity titanium case. At 41mm in diameter and 13.9mm in thickness, with a 48.3mm lug-to-lug, this watch is on the smaller side compared to similar models, which will serve as a selling point for those who prefer slimmer builds. 

The curved drilled lugs give it a unique texture, making the watch appear even smaller while evening out the proportions. They also allow for an easy strap change if you so desire. The material gives it an elegant feel that sets the tone for the entire piece. 

The high-intensity titanium is 30% lighter than stainless steel, giving it a lighter look and feel. It is also darker and moodier than its stainless steel counterpart, allowing for a broader range of styles to accompany the piece. 

As usual–in Grand Seiko fashion– the finishing is impeccable. The predominantly satin finish contrasts the beveled edges along the case, giving it a subtle flare of elegance. The Evolution 9 series follows the theme of very simply designed bezels that are clearly not the focal point of the piece but serve their purpose all the same by adding an undeniable feel of luxury, as the jet-black font of the numbers perfectly contrasts the crisp titanium background. 

The see-through and screw case back allows you to view the intricate movements of the Spring Drive sitting at the heart of the watch, and the signed crown makes it easy to adjust the time and date due to the true GMT movement. The anti-reflective sapphire crystal guards the piece from any unwanted light reflections that threaten to take away from the watch’s aesthetic. 

Overall, the lightness of the titanium and the bezel’s beautiful subtlety perfectly complement the jet-black dial, allowing for uncontested legibility and practicality. The slimness of the case will undoubtedly turn a lot of heads as the fine-tuned sharpness and the texture of the lugs are some of the biggest staples of the piece. 

Dial 

The dial’s deep, rich black serves as a perfect backdrop, making each grand feature shine even brighter than they already do. The Spring Drive fuels the hands as they soar across the frame in a seemingly unstoppable motion, gliding elegantly with pinpoint accuracy. Around the edge, the minute track sits quiet and somber, taking no attention away from the beauty of the hands and backdrop. 

The finely hand-finished indices project themselves like bright stars in the blackness of the night, causing easy legibility. The hands and indexes also come equipped with LumiBrite, offering enhanced visibility at night with its glow-in-the-dark feature. The sleek silvery color of the titanium combined with the inky black dial is a perfect recipe that delivers everything Seiko sought to accomplish with this piece. 

Nothing crazy, nothing obscene, just pure simplistic beauty, finely crafted so the watchmaker’s work can be known and appreciated wherever you look. The date indicator at 3 and the power reserve indicator at 9 round out the dial in perfect symmetry, while the third hand brings the GMT feature, making it easy to change the date at any given moment. 

While the case’s lightweight titanium and slimness are my favorite aspects of this piece, the SBGE283’s dial is one of the most elegant I’ve ever seen. The perfect blend of legibility and simplicity pushes it over the top and rounds out the piece in a well-mannered way that I’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko. 

Movement 

The iconic Grand Seiko Spring Drive is the most impressive part of the SBGE283. Like every other luxury mechanical watch, it generates energy, but the electronic regulator that delivers a precision that no other mechanical watch can match sets the Spring Drive apart from other mechanical movements. 

Grand Seiko has mastered both electronic and mechanical watchmaking, allowing it to nurture both aspects to their full potential. The high torque of a mechanical watch combined with the high precision of an electrical watch allows for a truly groundbreaking combination that the Spring Drive brings to life. The SBGE283 comes with a 9R66 caliber, delivering a power reserve of 72 hours and an accuracy of +15 seconds per month (+1 second per day), which is expected from a Spring Drive. 

The pinpoint accuracy allows for the second hand to move flawlessly, never stuttering or slowing. The SBGE283 and many Evolution 9 collections are true testimonies to the Spring Drive’s power. And, of course, the SBGE283 comes equipped with the GMT feature, undoubtedly putting a smile on the face of every world traveler who wants to get their hands on this watch. 

The easily adjustable date indicator and time zone add another element of efficiency to the watch movement, making it a more dynamic tool for those who are always on the move. One of the most mechanically sound pieces that Seiko has released, the SBGE283 strives for perfection and goes above and beyond to deliver. 

Grand Seiko revolutionized the game with their Spring Drive, and it has become customary to associate the term “flawless” with any piece housing one. As they seek to continuously push for mechanical perfection, it would only make sense for Spring Drive watches to be one of the most highly demanded pieces on the market. 

Straps

The titanium bracelet has a three-link design, polished with rolled bevel and a satin finish. The lack of tapering makes it seem wide and slightly disproportionate to the case, and it lacks micro-adjustments to make it fit even better. It does, however, come with two half-links, making for slightly easier adjustments. 

Like all Grand Seiko bracelets, the SBGE283 is sized with push pins rather than screws so that you can pop them out to loosen or tighten the bracelet around the wrist, and the drilled lugs make it so that you can easily swap out the straps whenever you feel the need. The bracelet width comes in at 22mm, causing it to fit fairly thickly along the wrist, but the titanium material makes it feel much lighter than a stainless steel variant. 

A three-fold clasp with a push button release is a simple guarantee that the watch fits tight and securely around the wrist. The clasp is also engraved with the iconic GS symbol, adding a new level of polish and style. 

The titanium material’s value to the entire piece is all the more notable on the bracelet, as the lightweight feel ensures unparalleled comfort while also allowing for a thicker design. 

The bracelet itself highlights the entire watch, broadcasting the smooth titanium while also complementing the luxurious case and dial. It executes its purpose perfectly, bringing the modern ideas of the Evolution 9 collection full circle and embodying everything Seiko seeks to achieve. 

On The Wrist 

As I said, one of the SGE283’s biggest selling points is its lightweight feel on the wrist. It prioritizes comfort and sits securely while also being one of the most stylish pieces in the Evolution 9 family. Despite the 41mm size, the 48.3 mm lug-to-lug and the 13.9mm thickness give it a very comfortable on-the-wrist experience. 

It gives off a sporty aesthetic while fitting under most cuffs, fitting like a 40mm watch thanks to the integrated bezel. With a 10-bar water resistance, you’re not going to want to be near any major water sources, but this watch isn’t necessarily made to go deep-sea diving, so if you get caught in a heavy rainstorm, it might be a good idea to cover it under a sleeve. 

While the width of the strap is probably my biggest complaint, I feel like the case’s curved lugs and integrated bezel make the watch appear slimmer, while the titanium makes it feel lighter. It’s great for those of you with a wrist size of 6.75 inches to 7.5, although people with larger or smaller wrists could easily adjust it to fit them as well. 

A rich, slick silver combined with jet-black is a very simple style choice. But that simplicity is what sets this piece apart. I think that the subtlety of the bezel perfectly contrasts the blackness of the dial, while the silver coloring of the titanium makes the entire aesthetic shine. Not to mention the finely polished surfaces and attention to detail on the hands and indices. 

Overall, all these factors make for an incredible on-the-wrist experience, as I found it easy to style with virtually any piece of clothing, which (in my opinion) should always serve as a feature that is prioritized. 

The GMT feature makes it efficient for switching time zones at any given moment, while the anti-reflective coating on the inner center removes the glare from the hands and indices, resulting in flawless legibility from any angle. 

Price and Availability

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGE283 from authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We ship all over the US, and since we are authorized dealers, we offer a five-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand new Grand Seiko SBGE283 costs $8,400, with pre-owned prices varying from $6-7k depending on condition. 

Conclusion

Keeping true to the philosophy of their brand while also making revolutionary changes to fit modern times, Grand Seiko has combined their classic feel and masterful craftsmanship into a contemporary design that will draw the eye of those who prefer a more modern look. 

The goal of the Evolution 9 collection was to push the boundaries, setting new standards of practicality and comfort. Ever since they were founded in 1960, Grand Seiko has always sought to be in a league of their own. The Evolution 9 serves as a magnum opus, combining everything they’ve learned from previous releases into one grand collection that takes them one step forward on the never-ending road toward perfection. 

Renewing the aesthetics that have been at the core of Grand Seiko for the past 62 years, the SBGE283 perfectly encapsulates everything the Evolution 9 stands for. The sleek craftsmanship and perfectly designed mechanics have made this watch a treasured prize, undoubtedly fueling the interest in similar pieces, as well as cementing the Evolution 9 collection as a monumental testament to the never-ending pursuit of technological evolution.

Flawless engineering and elegant precision are the two support beams on which pieces like the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 rest. The precision of its craftsmanship determines what makes an innovative piece earn that title. Grand Seiko has proven over and over again why it is revered, respected, and referred to as a mammoth in the industry when it comes to its design. 

There is no better embodiment of the brand’s dedication to innovation and functionality than this Sports Collection Hi-Beat 36000 GMT. Taking inspiration from the electrifying Japanese craftsmanship from which it derives while also incorporating cutting-edge technology, this masterpiece serves as an irresistible siren call for watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. 

It is no secret that GMT pieces are rooted in extremely high-quality craftsmanship, seeking to deliver on all fronts as a titan in the industry. Grand Seiko has cracked the code, as their GMT pieces are some of the most luxurious and well-designed pieces on the market. 

As we take you on a journey exploring the intricate mechanics, enchanting design, and otherworldly performance of the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Hi-Beat 36000 GMT, you will see why watch experts and enjoyers alike dub this a truly innovative piece that should be in every collection out there. 

History

Released in August 2020, the SBGJ237 is a welcome addition to the Sport Collection. From diver’s watches to chronographs, automatic spring drives, and more, the Sport Collection fully embodies the core attributes of the Grand Seiko brand—combining legibility and durability in every piece. 

Since its debut, the SBGJ237 has been a staple, highlighting the unparalleled functionality that GMT pieces bring to the table. 

Grand Seiko is by no means a stranger to GMT watches. Some past Seiko GMT pieces include the SBGM221 (which is one of my favorite GMT watches of any brand currently available) and the SBGJ201, with a similar design to the 237–as both use stainless steel for their casing–and the SBGE253, a fellow member of the sports collection, resembling the 237 in nearly everything but color. 

Seiko looks to improve upon every piece they put out, and that stands true to their GMT collection as every design has improved upon the last, bringing us their magnum opus of GMT sports watches in the form of the SBGJ237. 

Case 

The SBJG237’s case, with a diameter of 44.2 mm, may seem large, but the sloped design compensates for the bulkier measurement by significantly slimming down the case. Having a lug-to-lug of 50.6mm and being 14.4mm thick, it is one of the largest GMTs out there, which will naturally cause some complaints. But the proportions are very well-rounded. 

Plus, the case is stunning, using its size as an advantage to fully display its beauty. With a stainless steel material and a rotating 24-hour bezel made of sapphire crystal, this piece strives not only for functionality but also for a rich, demanding presence that radiates luxury and style. 

The high-quality sapphire glass allows you to gaze in wonder at a fully transparent view that lets you soak in the depth and detail of the entire piece. The crown sits solemn and silver, allowing you to easily adjust depending on your timezone. All of the intricate mechanics that optimize the watch’s functionality are tucked away behind a solid case-back with the Grand Seiko logo. The entire case captures the feeling of a midnight walk. 

It is a true sports watch that prioritizes functionality and durability above everything, yet the exquisite finishing gives it that luxurious touch that we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko. Polished surfaces with a few spots of brushing on top of the lugs already give it an iconic look, but paired with the sleek silver and the white and blue of the bidirectional bezel, you are transported to a beautiful world of light and dark where you decide which color is more dazzling. 

Dial

Moving deeper, we now look at the midnight blue dial. The bold whiteness of the GMT hand provides a symbolistic contrast to the deep, dark blue, which, under certain angles, can appear jet black. I will note that the lighting environment plays a huge part in enhancing the beauty of the dial. 

Under specific lighting, it can appear lighter or darker than it really is, adding an entirely new layer to the aesthetic, which dubs it my favorite part of this piece. The hands themselves perfectly add a sleek and bold flavor as they glide across the surface, with the hour and minute indices swimming comfortably in the dark blue sea of the dial. 

They are shaped exactly how they need to be and remain subtle enough not to overtake any other portion of the design. The bezel and hands are fully lumed, and the 3,6, 9, and 12 indices can also glow in the dark, allowing the wearer to fully use all the piece’s functions, no matter the time of day. The date window resides at the 4 o’clock position, adding to the watch’s sporty persona while not subtracting from the symmetry. 

The design of the dial is reminiscent of the Japanese night sky, a rich dark blue that I can’t state enough is the most gorgeous part of the piece. Grand Seiko seeks to add a touch of personality to every piece, and the magnificent sunburst blue coloring causes the piece to erupt with life. 

Movement

The SBGJ237 uses a Hi-beat automatic movement operating at 36,000 vph, propelling the second’s hand in a very smooth motion, nearly competing with the iconic Spring Drive itself. While not as smooth as the Spring Drive, it comes very close, and the additional perks that the Sport Collection offers far outweigh what it lacks. 

This model incorporates the high-specification movement of the Caliber 9S86, which has an accuracy of +5 -3 seconds per day and a power reserve of 55 hours. What sets the 9S86 apart from other caliber numbers, such as the 9S85, is that the 9S86 offers the GMT function, which is essential to international travelers, assuring them that the accuracy of the time shown directly correlates to their time zone. 

Many tend to label this watch as “a real GMT” because the hour hand can be set independently from the minute, making it easy to unscrew the crown and set your local timezone. Aside from other Grand Seiko models, the SBGJ237 has drawn comparisons to other GMT watches of different brands–most notably the Rolex GMT Master II. 

When comparing anything with Rolex, it is easy to assume that the most iconic name in the watch industry easily outperforms any other competitor. Still, I would argue that the Seiko watch outshines Rolex in many ways. Aside from similar movement, the two GMT watches share a similar-looking bezel and dial. 

However, the craftsmanship and finishing are notably more elegant on the Seiko, making it look more expensive than the Rolex, which speaks volumes considering that the Seiko is less than half the price. Sometimes, being the more expensive option doesn’t always mean that you are the best looking nor the most efficient. Seiko prioritizes high functionality and even higher craftsmanship in every piece they put out, once again reinforcing their impact on the industry. 

Straps

Aside from the dial, the stainless steel bracelet is my favorite feature of this piece. It perfectly balances the watch, contrasting the dark blue of the center with its sleek, silver surface and richly polished details. The bracelet is durable and well-finished. 

It has four micro-adjustments catering to a wider variety of wrist sizes. While the strap’s width may be a bit bulky, coming in at 21mm, the band’s perimeter is 201mm, making it easy to fit any wrist of any size so that you can adjust accordingly. In order to prevent accidental openings, the clasp has two triggers, which you press simultaneously, making it easy to slip on and off. 

The clasp is also engraved with the iconic Grand Seiko logo, and its impeccable satin finish–to no one’s surprise–causes it to fit perfectly with the rest of the piece. The watch fits tightly and comfortably around the wrist, ensuring it doesn’t slide while you’re on the go, and the “tooly nature” of this watch, combined with its elegance, make it a strap magnet. 

The lugs are 21mm wide, making it a little more difficult to find straps, but the drilled lugs make it easier to swap them around. 

On the Wrist

There’s no hiding the fact that this is a 44.2 mm watch with a 50.6 lug to lug–especially on a smaller wrist. It is a large watch, it doesn’t wear small, but it is very well proportioned. The only recommendation I would offer is that if your wrist is smaller than 17 centimeters (around 6.75 inches), then you should definitely try it on in the store first before you make a decision about purchasing. 

On my wrist, it feels great and has the unique feel of a high-quality tool watch, which–undoubtedly–was intended by Grand Seiko. It is bulkier, but it’s not heavy. My wrist wasn’t in pain, and I was able to comfortably move while wearing it. 

Depending on the lighting, The watch also takes on many colors. The bezel and dial can appear dark blue under one light and jet black under another, giving it even more of a stylish flare. Every so often, when I glanced down, I was pleasantly surprised at how it could adjust to any lighting environment, and–as I mentioned before–really set the tone of the entire piece for me.

Legibility is an underrated aspect of the watch. No matter how far away I was looking, and no matter the light level, I could always clearly read everything on the bezel and within the dial, which is an upside to having a thicker casing. I feel the LumiBrite glow-in-the-dark feature came in handy far more often than I thought. 

There is no legibility lost; you can clearly see the bezel, the indices, and the hands, making it easy to tell the time no matter the hour of the day. A true Sport Collection, through and through, with a 200 m water resistance (thanks to the thickness) that allows you to take on any activity without having to worry about damage or corruption, all while looking your best. 

The easily adjustable time zone makes it an essential traveling companion, giving you the freedom to sport this watch wherever you go. In terms of fashion, the sleek, stainless steel makes it easy to pair with anything, while the dark blue of the dial can perfectly match a suit jacket of the same color.  

It is a dressier watch, so be sure to up your fashion game to properly compliment this beauty. The thickness of the case will definitely make it more noticeable than a slimmer piece, which is another plus of having a thicker watch. Wearing it on the outside of your jacket would be my recommendation, as it is too bulky to wear underneath a sleeve. 

While the thickness would be my only minor complaint, there are many ways to take advantage of the size. And with it being such a pretty piece, the size makes it stand out even more. 

Price and availability

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGJ237 costs can be picked up for $6,800. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 4-6k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion

The market is always searching for pieces that encapsulate practicality, accuracy, durability, and style. These are pieces that go above and beyond, delivering high-quality craftsmanship and solidifying themselves as a brand that needs to be taken seriously. 

As much creativity as this market has, creating a piece that captures everything a watch lover wants and everything that a high-quality watch needs to function at a high-end level is difficult. But Grand Seiko stepped up to the challenge, perfectly adapting the GMT into a luxurious piece that can compete and excel over the competition. 

Undoubtedly, my personal favorite piece from the sports collection. It proves you no longer have to sacrifice practicality for a truly luxurious aesthetic. Grand Seiko continues to forge a blazing path through the industry with every piece they release, fully embodying their philosophy, which is to pour their heart and soul into every piece in pursuit of discovering the true meaning of time itself. 

As time goes on, watch lovers should be overjoyed by the value that Grand Seiko places on elegant craftsmanship and flawless precision. Their work continues to stand the test of time while maintaining their reputation as revolutionary creators, exceeding expectations, defining the industry, and improving upon every piece.