Alex DeVane, Author at Exquisite Timepieces
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Author: Alex DeVane

tudor black bay 36 review

Tudor has a history of not getting the respect it deserves from the industry. In the ’90s, many viewed them as cheap Rolex copycats, often overlooking what they brought to the table and instead favoring other Rolex-like companies such as Seiko and Tag Heuer, which seemed to offer far more originality and unique characteristics to their pieces than anything Tudor was doing at the time. This ultimately led to the brand leaving the US in 1996. 

In this article, we will be looking at how Tudor made their valiant return to the US after discovering themselves, particularly focusing on how the Black Bay became one of their most iconic pieces and is arguably the most sought-after Tudor on the market today. 

History 

Tudor Black Bay 36

In 2013, Tudor returned to the US, this time straying away from copycats and perfecting their own designs, slowly evolving into the brand we know today. First introduced in 2017, the Black Bay 36 was originally offered in black, with a 41mm version alongside it.

Being part of the Black Bay line, neither of these pieces could match the water resistance found on the divers, but 150M deep is still more than enough resistance for the average wearer. Plus, people liked the Black Bay line for other reasons.

Eventually, the navy blue variant came into the spotlight in 2018 and was immediately looked upon with favorable nostalgia from those reminiscent of pieces like the Tudor Subs from the 70s and 80s. The 36mm version seemed to enthrall fans, sharing many similarities with 36mm Rolex’s but having just enough personality to give itself a well-respected name. 

Getting a closer look at this watch was a treat, and I was left exceedingly impressed with the design choices Tudor made to set them apart from the competition.

While in the past, their originality might have been questionable, I think it’s safe to say Tudor has redeemed itself for previous errors by flipping the watch industry on its head and putting in the extra work to make themselves one of the most well-respected brands on the market. 

Case

Every review I’ve seen of this watch raves about how this is one of the most well-balanced and properly proportioned cases of all time.

And I must say, after firsthand experience, I would have to wholeheartedly agree. While the Black Bay comes in three sizes (32, 36, 41), the 36mm is the true star of the show, which is what we will be focusing on today.

While I haven’t dealt personally with the two other sizes, the common consensus is that the 32mm is a tad cramped, and the 41mm is a bit spaced out, leaving the 36mm to find the perfect median.

It is worth pointing out that by today’s standards, 36mm is considered on the smaller side of sports watches, which may leave those of you with larger wrists with no other option. I have no doubt that the 41mm can satisfy all of your needs should that be the only size that fits; today, we are simply focusing on the 36mm in particular. So, let’s dive in.

The case features impeccable finishing, which really puts into perspective how much detail is intertwined with this piece. It has slab sides polished to effortlessly catch light and gleam like unblemished glass.

Being that it’s a thinner watch, the slab sides are proportioned to accommodate the rest of the sides and subtly do their part, taking extra care not to feel too clunky.

The crown breaks through the stainless steel surface, imposing itself as one of the signature trademarks of the Black Bay line. The rose logo is a subtle throwback to one of Tudor’s earlier heritage models, which plays on the nostalgic strings even more. 

The fixed bezel comes highly polished and glistens brighter than the radial brushing of the lugs, reinforcing the aesthetic with a nice contrast.

The sapphire lens fits the bright polishing, shining just as bright under certain lighting conditions, causing the watch to shimmer on your wrist, and the closed case back keeps everything nice and tight, offering flawless protection. 

Dial

Each dial color is beautiful in its own right, but the semi-gloss blue dial is extremely eye-catching. Again, like the sizing, the Tudor Black Bay finds the perfect median concerning the shade of blue—not too dark and not too light, seemingly transforming on the wrist when exposed to certain light.

The indices are slightly raised, standing 0.5mm tall, giving an extra layer of detail while highlighting the polished sides that also reflect light. The indices caught my eye because they are a mixture of shapes.

At the 12:00, there is a narrow triangle facing downwards; at the 3:00 6:00, and 9:00, slender rectangles disrupt the circular pattern, providing a unique sense of elegance and a nice geometric aesthetic that is extremely satisfying to look at.

Each index also comes equipped with a white lume that glows a low green in the dark, helping with nocturnal visibility. It also features a sapphire crystal up top, which pretty much guarantees that the Black Bay will not scratch under most conditions. 

The “TUDOR” text is in a perfect position, not too large to steal any attention but just noticeable enough to give you something else to look at. Below, the “ROTOR SELF-WINDING” text is curved, which kind of looks like a little smiley face.

The elegant, snowflake hands sweep over all of this, combining a straightforward, slender minute hand with a diamond-shaped hour hand that’s a great deal fatter. The second hand is very subtle despite the diamond-shaped lume plot towards the tip. 

I can understand how people tend to scoff at snowflake hands, but I feel they match the setting that Tudor is trying to create and stand out as one of the most dynamic features of this piece. In my opinion, it’s rare for snowflake hands not to hit the spot.

They are highly legible and fit the tone of this watch perfectly. Plus, they give a blocky feel that is actually quite charming to look at, complementing the geometric shapes of the indices. 

Movement

The ETA 2824 movement powers the Black Bay. Today, most Tudor watches have shifted to in-house movement, but the Black Bay is one of the only remaining pieces that still uses an outsourced movement.

Tudor has actually modified the ETA 2824 to keep things as accurate as possible. The movements are regulated to COSC standards but do not go through the certification process, causing Tudor to slightly improve upon the original movement, allowing the Black Bay to tick at a resounding -1 sec/day. 

Straps

I recommend choosing the oyster-style bracelet, though you can opt for the watch on a strap. Not only is the bracelet cheaper than going out and buying another strap, but it looks better, too. The fit and finish is excellent, mimicking the bracelet with brushed surfaces and flanked sides.

The strap starts at 19mm and finishes at 16mm when it meets the clasp. The clasp is fairly wide, measuring 17mm, and has a vintage-looking taper that makes the watch quite comfortable to wear.

The Tudor shield shines on the back of the clasp with three positions for micro-adjusting the bracelet. While researching what others thought of this piece, I noticed a common theme of people being a little annoyed with how few fitting options there are.

19mm is a fairly uncommon size, so you may end up searching for bracelets that accommodate your wrist more comfortably. It’s also worth pointing out that the Tudor does not currently offer a half-link option for the Black Bay, making the search for perfect comfort a little more complicated. 

Of course, this is a minor complaint. The curves of the bracelet and case still make for a smooth fit, so, depending on your wrist size, you may suffer no problems at all. 

On Wrist Experience

To put it frankly, this watch is a delight to wear. It’s not perfect—nothing is—but it’s going to be difficult to find anyone with any major complaints.

Some advice I will give is that if you have a wrist smaller than 6.5 inches, you will have virtually no problems at all finding a perfect fit, but those of you with significantly larger wrists may need to size up. The oyster case (in most instances) guarantees an esteemed level of comfort, and—I’ll say it again—the proportions are genuinely some of the best I’ve ever seen.

People will undoubtedly be drawn to the watch’s slim measurements, but to call this watch slim itself feels wrong.

It manages to do something I’ve never seen before; it disguises itself as a thinner, more luxurious watch, but on the wrist, it makes its presence known in the best of ways, coming alive as a true dive watch.

What Tudor does is combine all the intricate details and measurements with a simple yet effective aesthetic, giving their wearers quite the surprise when they find out the Black Bay offers so much more than they previously thought. Numbers don’t always give the full picture.

The 36mm strikes a perfect balance between elegance and sportiness, securing a spot in Tudor’s collection as a truly timeless piece. 

The Black Bay essentially resides on two different sides of the spectrum. On one end, it oozes in comfort and elegance, making it the perfect watch for any formal occasion. On the other hand, it is a true dive watch, dubbing it fit for day-to-day wear with authentic utilitarian roots.

This gives us (once again) a perfect combination. Realistically, you never have to take this watch off, no matter where you go. It’s not one of those fragile pieces that you always have to worry about getting damaged, nor is it one of those clunky bricks that are virtually indestructible but look like an entire cinder block on your wrist.

The theme for the Black Bay seems to be finding the perfect median, and it has truly impressed me with how much it was able to do just that. 

Pricing

You can find the Tudor Black Bay 36 from Tudor authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Tudor. A brand new Black Bay 36 can be picked up for $4,050 USD. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 3 to 4k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion 

This watch is beautiful; it fits great, and its versatility allows for constant wear, which is great when considering the price of watches like these. Tudor has indeed come a long way since departing the American market in 1996.

They have forged a new name for themselves, one that is now known for creative, original pieces that not only stand out in and of themselves but define the respective genre they belong to. In my opinion, the Black Bay is a perfect introduction to luxury timepieces.

Relatively cheap compared to other watches in the market, I would consider the Black Bay a jack of all trades and pretty much guarantee that anyone who at least respects the watch world will find something they adore on this piece. 

Tudor is one of the most consistent brands of the modern day. With how much they had to go to get to where they are, it’s going to be difficult to find a piece that falls short of the standard they have set for themselves.

The Black Bay is a treasure, and some already consider it a classic, but as the years go on, this piece will undoubtedly take its rightful place in history books as one of the most appealing watches of all time.

cartier tank vs panthere

Both the Cartier Tank and the Panthere fully embody the timeless elegance and flawless craftsmanship that Cartier has emulated throughout their lifespan. Both watches are highly coveted and are widely considered two of the most renowned luxury pieces available on the market.

Their sleek, aesthetically focused designs leave little to be desired, but they differ in how they appeal to the market.

While both derive from the same watchmaking principles, there are unique features that set them apart from the other and will make one stand out depending on what the consumer desires. Today, we will explore how these two masterpieces differ and what makes them so coveted while giving you a clear picture so you can more accurately decide which one suits you best. 

The Cartier Tank

The Cartier Tank

The Cartier Tank can trace its roots back to 1919 when it first released its six tanks to the public. Throughout the 20s, Cartier released many different variations of the iconic design—the ultra-thin, the curved Cintree, the Chinoise, the Louis, and the Guichets.

Because of the renowned luxury of the brand, at the time, Cartier was leading the world when it came to jewelry and watches. It was quite popular among celebrities to wear the Tank, which naturally reinforced their reputation as one of the most coveted brands in the United States. 

Over the years, many more Tank variations were released, including the Basculante in 1932, the Asymetrique in 1936, the Tank Americaine in 1989, the Tank Francaise in 1996, the Divan in 2002, and the Anglaise in 2012. As of right now, the Tank models include The Must, the Americaine, the Asymetrique, the Chinoise, the Cintree, the Francaise, the Louis, and the MC. Each variant takes a new shape, incorporating different designs or materials while staying true to the primary focus of the Tank aesthetic. 

The Must 

The Tank Must stays extremely faithful to the original Tank design. The stainless steel finishing and silver dial give it that sleek, subtle feel, and the blue, sword-shaped hour and minute hands sit alone in the center of the piece.

Like all Cartier pieces, the Roman numerals are big and bold, signifying their trademark design and breathing a distinguished level of quality into the dial that captures the feel of an authentic Cartier.

The Must’s crown has an embedded design with a sapphire cabochon, and you can either purchase a calfskin leather strap or a traditional stainless steel bracelet—both compliment the case magnificently. The Must comes in three sizes: Small (29.5mm), large (33.7mm), and extra large (41mm). The extra large Must’s feature an automatic movement, while the smaller models have quartz movement. 

The Louis 

The Tank Louis offers a little bit more variety within the range. Again, like the Must, there are three different sizes—Small, large, and extra large—but one of the major differences is that nearly every Louis has hand-wound movement, with the small exception of the entry-level small and large sizes, which have quartz movement.

The two quartz Louis models are the only ones that feature yellow gold on the cases. The rest of the collection uses rose gold or white gold as the primary case material.

As Cartier has a reputation for making fine leather goods, the alligator straps that the Louis can come in are of the highest quality, but you can also opt for rose gold or metal bracelets. Unlike the Must’s, none of the Louis models feature a secondhand or a date. 

The Americaine

The Americaine updates the original Tank design, making the piece slimmer, thinner, and curvier. The Tank Americaine comes in pink gold and steel with the option of adding additional diamonds or a bracelet.

The Americaine comes in three different sizes: the large (44.4mm), the small (35mm), and the mini (28mm). Again, like the Louis and the Must, the smaller sizes come with quartz movement, while the large is automatic.

Changes to the case and sides make the model slimmer, which is Americaine’s primary selling point. This particular version of the tank is arguably the most luxurious. I tend to enjoy slimmer watches more, and when the cases are curvier, they give off a more elegant appearance. 

The Asymetrique 

The original Tank Asymetrique was introduced to revolutionize Cartier’s legibility for their watches. In order to maximize simplicity, the numerals reside horizontally across the dial to prevent wearers from straining their necks. The new Asymetriques come in platinum, pink gold, or yellow gold with the Cartier cabochon-set winding crown.

This is a very classical watch, succeeding in a way that you wouldn’t expect. It’s playful and unique, but it is also very detailed, and it seeks to perfect the odd nature Cartier is emulating in a way that is highly respectable. As for the measurements, the Asymetrique measures 47.15mm x 26.2mm and is 6.38mm thick.

The Caliber 1917 MC ticks at 21,600 vph, and it has a power reserve of 38 hours. Probably one of the most unique pieces I’ve seen from any brand, this watch certainly does deliver, but because of its niche taste, it’s easy to imagine someone going another direction when picking out a Cartier. Still, you have to respect the vision they had when designing every curve. It’s pieces like this that make you respect the creative minds behind these masterpieces. 

The Chinoise

The original Tank Chinoise had a square case with revolutionary brancards that formed on the side of the case and extended beyond to also form the lugs. At the time, this kind of innovation was unheard of, making the Chinoise game-changing in its own right.

Nowadays, the Chinoise doesn’t get as much attention as the other tank variants, but after a long dry spell, the Cartier Prive collection is the new host of Chinoise models measuring 39.5mm with a hand-wound Caliber 430 MC.

The Chinoise can come in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum. The popular consensus is that the Prive Chinoise is much lighter than the original version, faring far better on your wrist, offering more comfort while also improving upon the aesthetic. 

The Cintree 

The Tank Cintree is one of the most desirable vintage Tanks available today. From its materials to its very shape, this piece is drenched in elegance. The case measures 46.3mm x 23mm, twice as long as it is wide, with a subtle arch that’s meant to communicate how thin the body is.

The case has a linear brushed finish, which blends with the curves to make it all feel authentic. The dial has simple Arabic numerals that have been elongated to fit the slim and curvy build with tiny hands that silently do their part, stealing no attention from the rest of the piece. The Caliber 8971 MC that resides inside ticks at 21,600 vph with a power reserve of 38 hours. 

The Francaise

The Francaise is a unisex design that has become a staple in pop culture. In the 2000s, it became quite a popular choice for young girls seeking to enter the world of luxury watches.

Of course, this partially had to do with the wave of ’90s nostalgia that the Francaise provokes. There’s something about it that tugs at the heartstrings of all who remember the golden days of this piece.

As for the aesthetic, it’s one of Cartier’s most iconic designs. With bruised satin finishing on the bracelet, newer models of this piece tone down the bright reflection of the gold, giving it a more subtle flare. It measures three sizes, small, medium, and large, now featuring a champagne dial with a sunray finish.

The small and large feature quartz movements, while the large is automatic. There is a gold and stainless steel version, but I would have to wholeheartedly recommend the gold due to the fact that it is impeccably finished, and the stainless steel version leaves a little to be desired. 

The MC 

The last Tank variant that we will be looking at is none other than the Tank MC. The MC gives the classic style of the tank a sportier feel. It’s a fairly large watch, measuring 44mm in diameter and 9.5mm thick; it offers a far heavier presence on the wrist, one that is welcome and not overpowering.

The most notable feature of the tank is the thicker side flanks. They are more square than usual and have a curved top that appears to wrap around the wrist. There is a stainless steel version as well as an 18K rose gold variant, both finished to perfection and complementing their respective aesthetics.

The classic silver dial is paired with blue steel hands to match the body. Overall, the watch appears very masculine, which will attract the right crowd. Another thing that sets the MC apart is its in-house movement. MC stands for “Manufacture Cartier” and refers to the in-house Caliber 1904 MC’s automatic movement that powers the piece. It operates at 4 Hz, offering a 48-hour power reserve. 

The Cartier Panthere

The Cartier Panthere

About a month ago, I did a deep dive into the Cartier Panthere, studying the rich history of the piece and exploring the different sizes and shapes it has taken over the years. If you are in the market to buy one and are curious about sizing, by all means, check it out.

Because of this, our time with the Panthere will be somewhat brief, but don’t think I’m glossing over it today because there is nothing to talk about. The Panthere to this day, remains one of the most bedazzling pieces Cartier has ever produced. There’s a reason popular demand fueled its triumphant return.

It remains a fan favorite among Cartier brands. As the name suggests, this model is inspired and named after the panther, an animal known for its strength and elegance. While you will notice the Panthere doesn’t come in as many variations as the tank, the faithful design has gone through its fair share of refurbishes and improvements, demonstrating the care Cartier has for this particular piece.

The Panthere has a square case with rounded edges that are far more subtle than the parallel sidebars of the tank. Because of this, the Panthere appears smaller and more elegant, reinforcing a demure stature that is more appealing to women.

This is why many get confused and deem the Panthere as an exclusive woman’s watch. It’s not, but it is rare that you will see a man sporting the Panthere despite larger sizes being produced to appeal to a larger audience.

The Panthere indeed offers a more complicated design than the tank. When dealing with this kind of elegance, it’s often the more detailed pieces that stand out, and the Panthere oozes with a pristine level of class that puts into perspective just how much sheer talent was needed to design something like this.

The materials seem to be more extravagant, and the colors more bold, which could draw some fans closer while deterring others away. When comparing these two, many factors are involved, but, like always, most of it comes down to personal taste.

Which is the right for you?

When deciding which watch best suits your style, gender may come into play. Simply put, the tank is going to appeal to more men because it’s engineered for larger-sized wrists, and the Panthere will appeal to more women because of its slimmer stature. This is obviously extreme speculation as neither of these pieces are gender-locked, but in terms of proportion and sizing, these are the objective facts.

Subjectively, if you crave something elegant and pristine, the Panthere will tug on your ear much harder than the Tank, though as we’ve discussed, a few of the tank variants could scratch that itch as well, and if you want something bolder with more masculine features, the tank might be the way to go.

One thing I do recommend is to look at every version of the Tank and make sure you know what you prefer before looking at the Panthere. It has a wider variety because the tank line has been in production for much longer.

It also might be a more attractive pick for beginners who are looking to purchase their first Cartier because the smaller tanks come in quartz, and many Tanks are a tad bit cheaper than Panthere variants, but do with that as you will.

Both watches will be expensive because we are dealing with precious metals, but because the Panthere is more expensive, it has a slight edge over the tank regarding the quality of materials, so if you’re a stickler for the finer things, the Panthere is unarguably the best. 

Conclusion

Overall, both of these pieces continue to defy what can be done in watchmaking. Quality is an undeniable virtue that Cartier seeks to implement into every piece, and they have hit it out of the park, perfecting both of these watches over the years.

These pieces are not cheap by any means; that’s why my best advice, as always, is to do your own research. What works for someone else may not work for you, and while neither of these watches is objectively a “bad pick,” you don’t want to drop a fortune on something that you aren’t 100% satisfied with.

best swiss watches

The Swiss have had hundreds of years to perfect their craft, producing elite timepieces for as long as people have worn watches, often being revered as the beating heart of the watch industry. 

Pristine materials, flawless, innovative movements, and unique designs are a few characteristics the Swiss implement into their pieces, with each dripping with life and intricacy that cause them to come alive on your wrist. 

The details of the pieces vary, but these watches are technical innovations that allow the wearer to find a variant of any kind to suit their desires.

There are countless specimens to choose from, but before we take a closer look at the pieces themselves, let’s study the rich history of how the Swiss came to produce so many electrifying pieces.

History of Swiss Watches 

To understand the history of Swiss watches, we have to take a look at the Reformation (you know, when Martin Luther nailed the 95 Theses on the wall?) The Reformation ignited intense, violent religious revolutions and wars with Germany at the center. But why is Germany so important? 

The uncertainty of the war dampened the productivity of French and German watchmaking, which, at the time, was the primary supplier of watches around Europe since they were the original creators. Switzerland already had a long history of watchmaking, and it also had a reputation for remaining neutral during times of war. 

Some of the French Huguenot watchmakers fled their country and settled in Switzerland, where they continued to work and perfect their craft in peace.

As more influential watchmakers came pouring in, they began to settle in Geneva, eventually transforming the Swiss watchmaking methods and blending different ideas and different materials to give us the unique aesthetic of Swiss watches as we know them today. 

Top 20 Best Swiss Watches

There have been a lot of Swiss watches over the years, and some look very similar, making it quite confusing to decide what best suits your style. When you make the financial commitment to purchase high-quality watches such as these, you want to be sure you’re getting the most out of your piece. 

Thankfully, we’ve narrowed down 20 of the best Swiss watches so that you know exactly what to look for and how to find a brand that suits you.

Rolex Datejust 36 (ref. 126234)

Rolex Datejust 36 (ref. 126234)

When Rolex first introduced its 36mm Oystersteel beauty, it was the first automatic wristwatch with a jumping date complication displayed in the dial. It set the standard for how a date display should function, inspiring countless other pieces to follow the same design. The bracelet is made of the same material, using jubilee, five-piece links, and a folding oyster clasp to maximize comfort. 

The Bezel is fluted and smooth with exquisite polishing, complementing the stainless steel case perfectly. Multiple movements have been used to power the Datejust 36, but it has always featured a self-winding caliber. The frequency reaches 28,800 vph with a balance bridge and Rolex’s Parachrom hairspring. It also has a water resistance of 100m. 

The Rolex Datejust 36 comes with a retail price of $9,250.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.01.010)

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.01.010)

The Seamaster Diver 300m has embraced a heritage that it has created, undergoing countless updates to ensure it maintains its reputation as one of the most influential pieces on the market. This 42mm model is crafted with stainless steel with a deep black aluminum bezel, which matches the wave-pattern dial beautifully.

It features a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 55 hours, and the water resistance comes in at 300m, living up to that Seamaster title. The milanese-style bracelet is forged from the same steel as the case with a foldover clasp, keeping the same aesthetic across every feature, giving the wearer a dark, minimalist, and utilitarian look. 

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M costs $6,500.

Tudor Black Bay 58 (ref. M79030n-0001)

Tudor Black Bay 58 (ref. M79030n-0001)

The Black Bay is one of Tudor’s most iconic pieces, often being the first one to come to mind when you see the brand’s logo. It is a beautiful, stainless steel powerhouse whose aesthetical prowess is only rivaled by its detailed intricacy. The case measures 39mm with a polished and satin finish, with a thickness of 11.9mm and a lug-to-lug of around 48mm. 

Powered by a Calibre MT5402 COSC, the self-winding mechanical movement features a bidirectional rotor system and has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The Black Bay bezel is arguably the highlight of the piece as it is unidirectional, meaning that you can rotate it in any direction you wish. It’s colored in matte black and is domed, adding more curves to the already curvy watch.

The Tudor Black Bay 58 costs $4,175.

Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5227J)

Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5227J)

Dubbed by Patek as “the very essence of the round wristwatch,” the Calatrava is truly elegant. It has a subtle charm, with each curve complementing the other and a color that implements its sly hand, even if it’s not the boldest piece on the market. The case is yellow gold measuring in at 39mm.

The strap comes in shiny alligator leather with square scales colored chocolate brown, and the dial is lacquered with ivory, with gold applied to the hour markers to reinforce the elegant aesthetic. The Calatrava from Patek Philippe comes with a retail price of $41,710.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph (ref. 26622CE.OO.D002CA.01)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph (ref. 26622CE.OO.D002CA.01)

The case, bezel, push-pieces, and crown on the Royal Oak Offshore by Audemars Piguet are all made of black ceramic giving it a sleek, smooth texture. The case measures 43mm across with a thickness of 15.5mm and a water resistance of 100m. The dial has a luminescent coating and compliments the rest of the aesthetic. The iconic Royal Oak Offshore hands are made of white gold. 

The rubber strap comes with a titanium AP folding clasp. This piece also comes with an additional black alligator strap. It is a self-winding flying tourbillon with a power reserve of 65 hours, which beats at 21,600 vph. 

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph is a limited edition watch requiring an appointment to determine the price.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time (ref. 7920V/210A-B546)

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time (ref. 7920V/210A-B546)

This 18k pink gold watch features a dual time zone with a day and night indicator and a date hand, which is quite a notable feature when comparing it to other watches on this list. Its diameter measures 41mm with a thickness of 12mm, making it a little bit larger than watches we have seen before. The transparent sapphire crystal case-back allows you to view the in-house caliber 5110 DT that powers the watch.

The dial is a rich green with a sunburst-finished base. The internal minute track is circular, and the external track is velvet-finished.

The date window is at the 6 o’clock, and the red 18k dual-time hands fit perfectly with this elegant aesthetic. The Overseas Dual Time is truly a visual masterpiece that radiates a luxurious energy, which justifies its $75,500 retail price.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 (ref. AB0139631C1P1)

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 (ref. AB0139631C1P1)

The Navitimer was originally developed to help pilots perform all necessary flight calculations while in the air. Now, it has become a staple of the Breitling brand as one of their most desired and aesthetically pleasing pieces. It is a stainless steel watch measuring 41mm with a thickness of 13.6 mm, making it ever so larger than the Vacheron watch from earlier. The bezel is bidirectional with a slide rule. The crystal is a cambered sapphire, and it is anti reflective on both sides. 

The self-winding mechanical Breitling 01 movement powers the piece, providing it with a power reserve of 70 hours. It beats at 28,800 vph with a whopping 47 jewels. The strap is made from alligator leather, and it is a striking blue, which pairs nicely with the rest of the design. 

The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 costs $16,200.

Cartier Tank Must Large

Cartier Tank Must Large

The Cartier tank is a slick, subtle, shiny piece made of stainless steel that measures 41mm. Like most Cartier pieces, it is a square watch with square glass. While it measures fairly large, it has a sleek design with elegant curves that comfortably fit your wrist. 

It is a self-winding mechanical watch with blue, sword-shaped hands. The dial has an off-white tone, and the signature Cartier Roman numerals are bold, black, and brilliant. 

The Cartier Tank Must costs $5,000.

IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

The Mark XX comes in a 40mm stainless steel case. The case back is closed, displaying the IWC logo on the back of the watch. The date window sits at 3 o’clock, and the dial is a bold navy blue. The white minute indices look nice on the backdrop and the elegant hands are finely polished and work wonders on the aesthetic. 

The IWC 32111 Calibre powers the watch, giving it a power reserve of 120 hours. It beats at 28,800 vph and is made up of 21 jewels. It comes with a wide variety of straps. In my opinion, the best one is a nice black calfskin leather that fits well with the other features of the piece.

The IWC Mark XX costs $5,250.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Automatic (ref. 5000A 0140 O52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Automatic (ref. 5000A 0140 O52A)

Made from a smooth ceramic, the Bathyscaphe case is 43.6mm in diameter. The strap and dial are both a rich navy blue, which gives the piece a subtle flare and highlights the beautiful ceramic. The gradient sunburst dials are quite large, displaying Super-LumiNova black indexes that light up in dark places. 

The open case-back features a sapphire crystal, allowing a full view of the movement. The Caliber 1315 automatically powers the watch, giving it a 120-hour power reserve and a smooth 4Hz frequency. This movement comes equipped with an antimagnetic silicon balance spring and a black 18k gold oscillating weight. I love the dark beauty of this watch; it pairs nicely with any formal attire.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Automatic costs $13,700.

 Zenith Chronomaster Original El Primero 38mm (ref. 03.3200.3600/69.M3200)

Zenith Chronomaster Original El Primero 38mm (ref. 03.3200.3600/69.M3200)

The casing is crafted from 38mm of bright, stainless steel with the same measurements and proportions as another Zenith piece, the A386. The dial is a beautiful white matte, featuring three different colored counters, all in their own unique shade, contrasting each other quite elegantly and rounding out the indices quite nicely. 

El Primero movement powers this piece, operating at a very comfortable frequency of 36,000 vph and a power reserve of 60 hours. This high-frequency chronograph movement is the culmination of over 50 years of dedication to mastering the intricacies of the El Primero Calibre.

The Zenith Chronomaster Original El Primero 38mm costs $10,300.

 Breguet Type 20 Flyback Chronograph (ref. 2067ST/92/3WU)

 Breguet Type 20 Flyback Chronograph (ref. 2067ST/92/3WU)

The Type XX from Breguet is a 42mm timepiece that follows the footsteps of similar watches from the 1950s and 60s. It is made of stainless steel with a sapphire case back, and the dial is jet-black with numerous time indicators and indices with Arabic numerals coated with ivory luminescence. 

The strap is made of calf textile leather with an ardillon, stainless steel buckle. The Calibre 728 powers the piece with a power reserve of 60 hours and a frequency of 5 Hz. It is a bidirectional automatic watch with a flat silicon spiral and inverted silicon anchor. 

The Breguet Type 20 Flyback Chronograph costs $19,100.

 Chronoswiss Strike Two Terra Limited Edition (ref. CH-5023-BRSI)

 Chronoswiss Strike Two Terra Limited Edition (ref. CH-5023-BRSI)

The Two Terra Limited is a very unique-looking watch. The first thing you’ll notice is that the dial mimics the rugged beauty of the earth’s terrain. It’s a rough, light brown color, with extremely detailed texturing to give it a grainy feel. The case is sleek and silver, measuring 40mm, and it aims to deliver a tactile experience on the wrist. 

Chronoswiss’ newly manufactured C.6000 powers the piece, distinguished by its ruthenium plating. It delivers 15 hours of power reserve to the watch, and the primary aim of Chronoswiss, at the moment, is to implement this complex moveset into more timepieces. 

The Chronoswiss Strike Two Terra Limited Edition (ref. CH-5023-BRSI) costs $10,800.

Glashütte Original SeaQ Blue Dial 39.5mm on Bracelet (ref. 1-39-11-09-81-70)

Glashütte Original SeaQ Blue Dial 39.5mm on Bracelet (ref. 1-39-11-09-81-70)

The Glashütte Original Sea Q was designed to adapt to changes in water pressure during a deep dive. The water resistance measures 200m and the watch is fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel with scratch-resistant inlay.

The case is made of 39.5mm of stainless steel, with an intense blue dial to give it a striking look and match the feel of the deep seas it will traverse. The case features vertically brushed finishing and can come with either a sapphire crystal case back or a stainless steel case back. 

It has an automatic movement, coming directly from Glashütte Original. Its power reserve totals 40 hours, and its frequency reaches 28,800 vph. There is a fine adjustment of the swan neck with beveled edges and polished steel parts, and it also comes with a skeletonized rotor with a double-G symbol. 

The Glashütte Original SeaQ costs $10,600.

 Hublot Big Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic 44mm (ref. 421.OM.1180.RX)

 Hublot Big Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic 44mm (ref. 421.OM.1180.RX)

The Big Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic, as the name suggests, is made with polished and satin-finished 18k king gold. The case measures 44mm and is striking, with the bezel complimenting the gold with its black ceramic and titanium screws. It has a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and features 100m of water resistance. 

Unico has developed its own automatic chronograph movement with the aim of being different and unique. The “open heart style” reveals the design, featuring a double coupling system and column wheel, as well as a 72-hour power reserve. It has a whopping 354 components that have been simplified as much as possible to give the wearer a smooth movement. 

The Hublot Big Bang King Gold Ceramic costs $41,600.

Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date 40mm (ref. FC-716S3H6)

Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date 40mm (ref. FC-716S3H6)

This watch is designed for everyday wear. It features a 40mm stainless steel case that has been polished to perfection. The dial is a sleek silver that compliments the shape of the case, as well as the color. It has a sunray finish with diamond cut indexes, and it is a stunner. The case effortlessly bleeds into the dial, which gives it a very simple look but one that is elegant and subtle in its own right. 

It is an automatic watch with an FC-716 powering the movement. The power reserve lasts up to 72 hours, and it beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph. It also comes equipped with 26 jewels to ensure flawless precision. 

The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase costs $3,895.

Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition (ref. 01 400 7778 7157-Set)

Made of titanium, the Oris ProPilot X Kermit measures 39mm in diameter. The dial is bright green, and on the date window—as the name suggests—Kermit the frog can be seen on every first day of the month. The purpose of this is to encourage everyone to slow down and focus on the joyful things in life. A simple reminder, one that can be hard to remember at times. 

The Kermit is powered by the Calibre 400. This automatic movement has a five-day power reserve with very high accuracy. It is tremendously reliable with anti-magnetism to deliver flawless timekeeping. 

The Oris ProPilot X Kermit costs $5,900.

 Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium (ref. L3.802.1.53.6)

 Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium (ref. L3.802.1.53.6)

The Spirit Zulu time was made to capture Longines century-old expertise in multiple time zones. It is a round, 39mm titanium watch with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and an anti-reflective coating. It has a bi-directional rotating bezel, and the dial is stark black with gold numerals and indices that pair nicely with the flawless titanium. 

It is an automatic watch with a Caliber L844.4 powering the self-winding movement. It beats at 25,200 vibrations an hour with a monocrystalline silicon balance spring, which delivers a power reserve of 72 hours. 

The Longines Zulu Time costs $4,275.

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Chronograph (ref. H38429730)

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Chronograph (ref. H38429730)

The American Classic Intra-Matic features a mechanical chronograph movement with a 60-hour power reserve. It measures time with modern precision while keeping the charm of the old-style Hamilton watches that their core audience is so familiar with. 

The case is made of stainless steel, and the dial is sharp black with two different time indicators that give a precise level of detail to the piece.

The indices are small, and the hands are elegant, mimicking the classic feel of original Hamiltons while incorporating that modern touch.

The strap is a smooth, black cow leather with a pin buckle that fits flawlessly around the wrist, optimizing comfort. This is a very traditional piece that doesn’t lean too heavily into an elegant aesthetic but still manages to look quite luxurious while staying true to its own style. 

The Intra-Matic Chronograph costs $2,145. 

 Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph (ref. T137.427.11.041.00)

Rounding out the list is the Tissot PRX Chronograph. It measures 42mm of stainless steel and features a satin finish.

It has a sleek, angular form mimicking the sports watch style of the 70s while also keeping true to the modern era of watchmaking. The dial is a simple yet beautiful blue that gives the appearance of calm waves amidst the ocean. Quite the peaceful aesthetic. 

Inside, the ETA/Valjoux caliber A05.H31 automatic movement offers a power reserve of 60 hours, with 12-hour, 30-minute, and 60-second counters that assist in keeping the most accurate time possible while moving smoothly and efficiently. 

The PRX Chronograph costs $1,895.

Conclusion

So there you have it. Swiss watches come in many shapes and sizes, making it hard to distinguish one specific shape that sets Swiss making apart from any run-of-the-mill designers. All of these pieces do have one thing in common. 

However, they are crafted with an unmistakable amount of detail, with each one telling its own story and flawlessly embodying the brand it derives from.

Swiss watches are some of my favorites in the market. I find that they are the most powerful and the most elegant, and, in some cases, they are much more affordable than opposing designs, which will always earn you a few extra points in my book. 

I hope I have helped you narrow down what best fits your style. The differences in these pieces can be overwhelming at first, but I promise, as you become more accustomed to the watch world, you will find a piece, Swiss-made or not, to suit your every need

grand seiko review

Grand Seiko. When you read that name, quite a few thoughts come to mind, no doubt. Some of you may be thinking, “Aren’t those just budget Rolex’s?” or, “Oh yeah, I picked up a Grand Seiko because I don’t have a Rolex store near me.” 

Needless to say, Grand Seiko is a brand that flies under the radar of a casual watch fan whose only exposure to the watch world has been through the “Rolex lens,” as I like to call it.

I’ve read countless articles of people going to buy a watch, seeing a “Seiko” instead of a Rolex, and either abandoning their purchase altogether or settling for a watch of “lesser quality.” 

Grand Seiko is a brand that has been pumping out gorgeous, breathtaking pieces since 1960 and has only improved with every year they have been producing.

Their rich Japanese history has been the primary influence they translate into their art, with pieces often being embodiments of Japanese seasons or cultural ideas. In this brief historical analysis, we will discover whether or not Grand Seiko is worth it and, if they are, why they are so esteemed. 

Grand Seiko Watches in the Past

Grand Seiko was founded in 1960 with the single goal of excelling in the watch market and providing unique pieces that demonstrate precision, durability, and undeniable beauty.

The first Grand Seiko was a major advancement. With the all-new caliber 3180 at the center of the piece, the watch was able to hold an accuracy of +12 to -3 seconds a day and offered a power reserve of 45 hours. 

In 1964, the Grand Seiko Self-Dater was introduced. This watch was crafted with the aim of being as practical as possible. Equipped with a calendar function and improved water resistance of up to 50 meters, Grand Seiko combined practicality and style, which they would go on to become masters of. 

Throughout the ’60s, as the Grand Seiko collection grew, many new calibers were introduced. In 1967, Grand Seiko released the 62GS, the first automatic Grand Seiko, followed in 1968 by the automatic 10 beat 61GS and the manual 10 beat 4SGS.

 The age demanded new possibilities, and the evolution of technology provided them, making watch accuracy an obsession among enthusiasts. This allowed Grand Seiko to set the stage and become one of the most influential brands when it came to designing new movements. In 1968, they won the prize as the best mechanical watches in the Geneva Observatory competition, communicating to the world that Grand Seiko was not a brand to be taken lightly. 

In 1988, the first Grand Seiko quartz watch, the 95GS, was released, exceeding the performance of regular quartz watches. Manufacturing every component in-house, using quartz crystals grown in its own facilities, the Grand Seiko team was able to select only the best oscillators that were tested and proved to be the most superior performing engines, ensuring that they could produce movements with the highest possible accuracy. 

Then, in 1993, they produced the “idea” quartz watch. The Caliber 9F83 was completed, incorporating four key innovations: the Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism, the Twin Pulse Control System, the Instant Date Change Mechanism, and the protective shield construction. Each of these ingredients embodied Grand Seiko’s primary goal, which was to create a piece that captured the essential qualities of a wristwatch.

Grand Seiko Watches Today

In 2020, Grand Seiko embarked on a new journey, thrusting itself into an all-new era. Kicking off this expedition, two new movements were released.

The Caliber 9SA5 is a new 10-beat movement delivering high precision and high power reserve, with three key innovations serving as the foundation. The Grand Seiko free-sprung balance, a Dual Impulse Escapement, and an over-coil all work in unison to give us that coherent precision Grand Seiko had familiarized us with. 

Then, the second movement was the Caliber 9RA5, which took the Spring Drive into a new age, enhancing its accuracy and extending the power reserve.

Both of these movements are slimmer, fitting more comfortably inside the watches, and both have been refined to perfection, dubbing Grand Seiko as one of the most innovative movement designers on the market.

In 2023, Grand Seiko released an automatic-winding chronograph operating at a three-day power reserve with timekeeping precision at 10 beats per second.

They named it the Tentagraph, making it the brand’s first form of chronograph movement. The SLGC001 is powered by the Tentagraph movement, making it Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph model. 

Then, in 2024, Grand Seiko’s new Caliber 9SA4 was released, making it the first manually wound, 10-beat mechanical movement that the company has produced in over 50 years.

It powers the new line of dress watches in the Evolution 9 style, which are engineered for the most satisfying sound while winding, ensuring that the watch moves with extraordinary efficiency, all while maintaining a power reserve of 80 hours. 

What Makes Grand Seiko Watches Stand Out?

Looking back at its history, we can see that Grand Seiko is a brand that prides itself on designing its pieces with the most precision possible. They have maintained their flawless reputation over the years by delivering time and time again on promises they have made, not only impressing their audience but exceeding their expectations. 

Gorgeous pieces are one thing. Any run-of-the-mill watch company can produce a semi-decent-looking piece. But where Grand Seiko stands out is what’s on the inside of their watches. 

Ever since the company was born in 1960, they have always been pushing the limits on what is truly possible with the technology they are given, but the most impressive part is once they have reached their limit with what they have, they will go above and beyond to create a new limit, new technology, and a new line to be surpassed.

The greatest praise I can give Grand Seiko is that they are original. Often unapologetic in the way they design watches, Grand Seiko delivers us truly unique pieces that are impossible to find elsewhere. 

Let’s not gloss over the aesthetic importance, either. While the brand’s highlight is the original movements, their casing and dial designs are also virtually flawless. Often incorporating cultural themes, the Japanese designers at Grand Seiko engulf their pieces in rich history and stoic symbolism that embody Japan’s very nature. 

For example, the GMT Twenty-Four Seasons collection gives us a unique perspective on how Japanese society views its seasons, with Grand Seiko giving us a beautiful piece to represent each stage of the year. 

While Grand Seiko might not be as recognized as a brand like Rolex, that doesn’t mean that their pieces are any less unique. Some are often of much higher quality than Rolex (though you didn’t hear that from me), and most importantly, Rolex is much more expensive. So there’s that.

Should you get a Grand Seiko Watch?

Grand Seiko SBGC251

In short, absolutely. For these kinds of watches with this kind of quality, Grand Seiko is priced relatively well. But let’s assume the budget is not an issue. Grand Seiko designs each piece with impeccable character. 

Seriously, it’s hard to find something like this anywhere else. From an outside perspective, pieces from the Evolution 9 and the Elegance collections (in my opinion) are the most aesthetically pleasing, but pieces like the SBGJ237 and the SBGE277 from the sports collection catch my eye as well, while offering more utility and durability, being that they are made of stronger materials and are classified as sports watches. 

It’s safe to assume that any Grand Seiko piece you choose will have a flawless interior because, looking back on their innovative history, they have proven to pride themselves on movement and precision above all else. 

I can imagine any luxury watch enthusiast being a fan of Grand Seiko, as well as someone who is just getting into the watch game and simply wants an admirable piece. Of course, if you are new, start cheap and shop for what you know. 

Grand Seiko provides a very accessible entry point into the watch game and their collection. Browse their website and do adequate research to ensure you aren’t getting anything that will cause you to become overwhelmed. 

I think the sports collection is a good place to start because these kinds of pieces are specifically engineered to withstand any potential damage, and they also look exquisite.

The sports collection consists of more traditional pieces designed to be worn on the go, so you wouldn’t need to worry about where and where it would not be appropriate to have on. 

Grand Seiko comes highly recommended. There has yet to be a piece I have been disappointed with, and it only seems that with each passing year, their repertoire grows wider, and their quality improves. I trust a company that is in it for the love of the craft. 

Taking the extra time to ensure that what you are providing to the market is the best it can be will always earn you a resounding recommendation because you respect your buyers more than you respect the dollar.

That’s something that will gravitate consumers anywhere you go, but to an industry that revolves so much around precision and attention to detail, that is an unmistakable quality that is necessary for anyone you buy from. 

Conclusion

Grand Seiko is one of the only companies that I will recommend more and more as the years pass. Not because I know any future plans or have the inside scoop on any record-breaking ideas, but because I can look back at where they came from and tremendously respect where they are now. 

History alludes to the inevitable improvement of their brand because of the choices they make and the respect they have for the art of watchmaking.

I say this all the time, but I am excited about the direction that Grand Seiko is going and listen every day for the announcement of something new because I know that whatever they produce will undoubtedly be one of the best things the industry sees all year. 

So, those of you on the fence about pulling the trigger, I say do it. It’s not every day a brand like Grand Seiko comes along. I promise, if you know what you want, Grand Seiko can provide.

rolex 1908 review

When declaring something “locked in the past.” it may come across as an insult to the brand, seemingly associated with stubborn characteristics like the unwillingness to change and adapt to the new market. 

This is a fair criticism for many brands that refuse to shake things up and develop something new. Rolex, however, takes the phrase “locked in the past” and flips it on its head. The 1908 relishes in the past, thriving off of old Rolex fans’ nostalgia for pieces like the Cellini while demonstrating its own aesthetic that seems to blend different styles from different timelines.

Rolex fans remember the original release of the 1908s, but this platinum version that we’re talking about today is something quite different from those pieces we reminisce upon so fondly. The Perpetual 1908 in Platinum is exactly what the 1908 line needed from the start. 

Elegance doesn’t even begin to describe it. Oozing with luxury and dripping with glamor, the platinum version takes an already gorgeous frame and improves the case, dial, and strap while keeping true to the 1908 origins. It’s truly an anomaly, and as we examine the details and design choices, you will see just how special this piece is. 

History

Rolex 1908 History

The Perpetual 1908 collection was first introduced in 2023 in an attempt to enhance the traditional techniques that have been used by incorporating modern advancements. Those who love historical craftsmanship will undoubtedly be drawn to the 1908 as it emulates the classic feel of old-timey watchmaking that made us fall in love with the craft in the first place. 

The Perpetual 1908 is a high-end model that seeks to exemplify the technical prowess ushered in by the modern age while keeping true to the legacy of innovation Rolex has been known for since the birth of the company. 

The perpetual collection is named after Rolex’s self-winding mechanism, the perpetual rotor first introduced in 1931. This mechanism enabled automatic winding by simply moving your wrist, eliminating the need for manual winding and enhancing the watch’s precision. 

The stage has now been set for the platinum version to steal all of the attention. In 2024, it hit the market and, as you would expect, was met with immediate praise. But why exactly? I mean, if you’re skeptical about a Rolex watch, then you must know nothing about the craft. 

Arguably the most well-respected watchmakers on the market, Rolex engineers every watch to perfection, but what makes this one so special? Sounds to me like we need a deep dive into what makes this watch tick—physically and metaphorically—and study the different ways it stands out from its competitors and counterparts.

Case

The Rolex Perpetual 1908 features a 39mm case that has slowly become popular due to its curves and edges. Crafted with 950 platinum, the case drips with a luminescent white luster that boasts exceptional resistance to corrosion. 

Iit fits like a dream, adapting to whatever wrist it’s on, and the 9.5mm thickness ensures comfortable wear with a luxurious heft that reminds you of the pristine quality and expensive materials.

With a rare open caseback, Rolex gives you a glimpse into the technical marvel that powers the piece (which we will get to later) and equips it with a sapphire crystal that protects the piece from virtually any scratches. 

The crown subtly protrudes from the side and is embedded with the same high-quality platinum. It is easily windable, so you can set the time without hassle. The curve of the case is interrupted by the edge of the double bezel, adding more texture. 

The impeccable finish is a mixture of polished and brushed surfaces that serve to remind you exactly who you’re buying from. Rolex is no stranger to star-studded cases. The platinum naturally steals the show, but the Perpetual 1908 comes in 18K yellow and white gold that is just as luxurious with the same quality and detail as its platinum counterpart. 

Overall, the case is exactly what you would expect from a watch of this quality, with every curve complimenting another feature, reinforcing the dial’s boldness while maintaining the unique subtlety that has come to be expected with a high-end piece like this. The platinum steals the show, but the dial is also quite notable.

Dial

The dial is a rich, icy blue with white highlights to provoke a more engaging experience. Featuring a staggering guilloche pattern, Rolex communicates its pristine attention to detail while adding an alluring uniqueness that sets the tone of the entire piece. 

Deviating from the traditional Mercedes hands we’ve grown so accustomed to seeing from Rolex, the platinum 1908 features more elegant Breguet-style hands that are immaculately finished along the indices. 

When comparing it to similar pieces like the Day-Date and the Daytona, notice how the blue for the 1908 is much richer than its counterparts. Slight tweaks to the shade of blue and subtle white highlights cause the 1908 to take its own shape with a precise pattern whose repetition and quality speak for themselves. 

The dial features Arabic hour markers at the 12, 3, and 9 positions. The railroad-style tracks for the minute and sub-seconds and the “Superlative chronometer” text are either a hit or a miss, depending on who you ask. 

The hands are well-proportioned. Thick enough to be noticeable but thin enough to not hijack the aesthetic. They do their job well. And the simplistic taste that the watch oozes is well combated by the grainy texture, ensuring that both sides of the spectrum—the bold lovers and the subtle lovers—get what they want. 

The dial is magnificent. Everything flows together well, and the rich blue perfectly compliments the platinum exterior. It definitely communicates that this is a high-end watch.

Movement 

At the heart of the 1908 sits the Calibre 7140, a movement manufactured exclusively by Rolex. It’s a self-winding mechanical movement known for its precision, reliability, and efficiency, operating at 28,800 vph. 

With the open case back, the 1908 allows full vision of the gorgeous engine lying at the heart of the piece. The 7140 is beautiful, with the sunny rays catching the light and allowing it to dance freely all along the back of the watch. 

Featuring the patented Chronergy escapement and the Syloxi hairspring, the 1908 operates with an extremely high energy level while maintaining dependable functions that ensure the wearer of its high-end craftsmanship. The 7140 also includes Paraflex shock absorbers to enhance stock and grant the piece a power reserve of 66 hours. 

Strap

The 1908 comes in either a brown or black matte leather strap, making it the only watch from Rolex not to feature a chain link. The strap is lined with green calfskin underneath and features on-tone stitching, which really illustrates the attention to detail. 

Securing the elegant strap is a double folding clasp made from the same platinum as the case, embodying a new shape that better resembles the shape of a human wrist. Two levers reside on either side of the clasp that must be pressed together simultaneously for it to open. 

Compared with a friction-based clasp, a double-folding clasp like this will feel much safer, causing you to become more confident that you won’t break it if you push too hard. The comfort of the strap compliments the case’s curvy features, as both play a huge role in ensuring a comfortable and tight wear that you will hardly even notice. 

On the wrist

Rolex 1908 on the wrist

It’s almost as if the 1908 was laced with some sort of magic material, causing it to twist and turn to fit your wrist perfectly. I often prefer leather straps because of the comfort levels they provide. 

Rolex must have heard my praise because if I didn’t know better, I would say that this strap actively massages my wrist while sitting on it. People with average-sized wrists can expect this watch to fit like a dream, which is exactly what Rolex was aiming for. It has the weight and presence to fit those with heavier wrists, but people with wrists smaller than 6 inches will struggle to fit it on. 

In terms of aesthetic presence, what more can you want? The platinum is sleek, the dial magnificent, and the case is large enough to catch the eye of anyone you wear it around. It manages to be just bold enough while not being tacky, but where the true beauty lies is the subtlety of the fine materials that hold the piece together. 

Any outfit can match this piece because the masterpiece on your wrist will immediately overshadow anything you wear. However, since this piece is just shy of $31,000, it may be wise to limit its wear to special occasions, such as formal parties or fancy shows—something to match the vibe in the room. 

If you couldn’t tell by now, this is the kind of piece that doesn’t come around much. A true gem, if you will. Rolex has fully displayed their prowess, mixing all of their refined craftsmanship gained over the years into a piece that will undoubtedly be iconic for generations. 

Pricing

You can find the Rolex Perpetual 1908 from Rolex authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Rolex. A brand-new 1908 platinum can be picked up for $30,900. Pre-owned pieces usually range from $24k-$25k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion

At the end of the day, watchmaking is art, and Rolex has been the best artist for a long time. This watch is cemented as one of their masterpieces. The 1908 line is my personal favorite from Rolex, and the platinum just might be the most extravagant and luxurious version of an already magnificent lineup.

If you have the money to spend (and it’s a lot), then I can think of no better piece that deserves your attention. Watches like this are truly an anomaly, and while the price may be very steep, the level of quality is not lacking in the slightest, meaning that if you pull the trigger, you will not be disappointed. 

The day that Rolex drops the ball and delivers something subpar is the day that the watch market collapses. I’m convinced that as long as pieces like these continue to be produced, watch enthusiasts will be in good hands for the years to come.

It’s quite an achievement to be the best in something, but doing it for so long is downright impressive. As time progresses, I think one of the only guarantees in the watch world is that Rolex can be trusted to produce top-of-the-line statements like the 1908 that capture the artistic side of watch-making all of us love so much.

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