Author: Alex DeVane

Cartier’s consistent quality and unique design choices have earned them a well-respected reputation and deemed them a household name in the watch industry. They have an unapologetic commitment to making each piece stand out in a way that embodies the nature of their brand, making their watches highly regarded and valuable. 

With this undeniable quality comes those who desire the identical look of a Cartier piece without having to pay full price for authenticity. Cartier has been one of the primary victims of counterfeiting, and unfortunately, it’s not always easy to differentiate a true Cartier watch from a fake one. 

It takes a keen eye and specific attention to detail to spot the blemishes or the cut corners counterfeiters tend to take. In this article, we will explore all of the ways that you can spot a fake Cartier to know exactly what you are purchasing and how legitimate it may be. 

The Telltale Signs of a Fake Cartier Watch

Cartier fakes will always try to mirror the original design to the best of their ability, but when thoroughly expected, you can usually tell the difference as to which one is real as long as you know what to look for. 

No matter how hard they try, fakes will never meet the Cartier standard, but a highly skilled counterfeiter can come very close and, to the untrained eye, could very well pass a fake along as a true Cartier piece. 

That’s why it is extremely important to do your research and be observant to be confident that what you’re buying is the real deal. A few of the trademark signs of an authentic Cartier watch include:

Roman Numerals

Cartier dials usually include bold, black Roman numerals, which perfectly contrast their white or silver backgrounds. The legibility of these select pieces makes them recognizable as authentic Cartier watches, as the counterfeits either don’t include Roman numerals or, if they do, they are of significantly less quality or in a different font. 

Case Back, Serial numbers, Stamping, Hallmarks

If you turn your Cartier watch over, the brand name will be spelled in clear and elegant letters, identifying the watch as legitimate. The serial number lies directly below the brand name, which is unique to every watch manufactured, and modern Cartier watches have a four-digit number as well, which is the case reference. 

Along with the numbers, you can also see important stamping indicating the movement and make of the watch. If the watch were automatic, it would tell you on the stamping, and if it were made of stainless steel, it would tell you that as well. 

Screws

Screws are one of the most tell-tale signs of a fake. Cartier watches never use Phillips-head screws, so if you are looking for a real watch, look for flathead screws only. Oftentimes, counterfeiters will use Phillips head screws or, even worse; they won’t use screws at all and just place stickers of flathead screws to make you think it’s a real piece.

A good way to decipher what’s real or not is to get a screwdriver and see for yourself. Remember, no X screws, and if you do use a screwdriver, always be extremely careful not to scratch the case back. 

Are Fake Cartier Watches Worth It?

With all the controversy around fake watches and how to tell the real from the counterfeit, I suppose the only question remaining is whether fakes are worth it or if they are truly scams through and through.

Many obvious fakes will prove to be pieces of junk. I speak from personal experience—all I can tell you is don’t purchase fake Rolexes from street vendors in Italy; they will break the very next day. 

Not all counterfeit watches are of the same quality, however. While most fakes can never hope to achieve the level of quality as the higher-name brands they attempt to emulate, they can still hold their own and prove to be sustainable pieces that can perform all of the tasks needed in a standard watch. 

If you can find a well-made fake, then you could even pass it off as a name-brand, impressing those who see it, all while paying a fraction of the cost. 

It is risky, however. Again, while I knew the Rolex I bought for 10 euros in Italy was fake, I had no idea it would break the next day. Well-made fakes are watches that can last. They will be slower, they won’t be made with the same materials, and there will be blemishes implying that this is not a Cartier or a Rolex, but—hopefully—they will function well enough for a long period of time. It’s difficult to recommend, though. In the watch world, you truly pay for what you get. 

Big names like Cartier are expensive, to be sure, but there is good reason for the price they demand. You can’t find anything like a true Cartier piece. The level of craftsmanship will be evident on every square inch of the binding and case, with perfectly polished materials glimmering like treasure as it sits proudly on your wrist. Not to mention the mechanical quality. Flawless movement is a staple of authenticity as well. 

You can’t expect that kind of intricacy from a fake—no matter how skilled the counterfeiter may be. It seems to me that Cartier fakes specifically are not the kind of watches you want to be looking for. Counterfeiters seem to cut far too many corners when it comes to replicating Cartier’s, leading to a drastic drop in quality and, in some cases, being unwearable. 

Using stickers to look like screws is an immediate red flag that should set off an alarm in your head to steer clear of anything that resembles a scam, and some are quite frankly very ugly and look nothing like an authentic Cartier. 

Overall, I can’t recommend fakes; it’s simply too risky. If you are on a budget, just don’t go looking for high-name brands that you know are more expensive. My best recommendation would be to simply look for a cheaper watch and avoid trying to get people’s attention by resorting to a potential scam. 

There are plenty of high-quality watches that are perfect for a budget. If you are looking for a piece with the sole purpose of trying to impress anyone who sees you wearing it, then you are going about it wrong. Instead, focus on how the watches are made and look for what suits you. This will lead to a deeper understanding of the craft and will cause you to more accurately acknowledge what fits you best. Trust me, there are plenty of pieces out there just waiting to be discovered.

How to Avoid Getting a Fake Cartier Watch

We discussed briefly how to tell if your Cartier is fake or not. The Roman numerals, case back, serial numbers, stamping, and hallmarks are all good ways to tell, with the screws on the case back being the most obvious hint that your watch is fake. 

Another common design feature is the blue hands that perfectly match Cartier’s signature blue “cabochon,” a polished gemstone capping the mechanism that winds to the right. 

Another important feature of a Cartier watch is its weight. Genuine Cartiers are crafted from pure materials like gold, platinum, or stainless steel. All these materials carry a signature weight, indicating the quality and authenticity while also signifying just how top-of-the-line Cartier pieces are. 

If you were to hold an authentic Cartier in your hand, you would undoubtedly notice the satisfying heft that it carries. The weight should feel proportional to the size of the watch, with fake Cartiers typically being made with lightweight alloys that feel all wrong in your hand. 

Because of this, fakes are much lighter than authentic Cartiers due to their cheap attempt to replicate premium materials. In order to properly assess the weight to ensure what you have in your hand is the real deal, it helps to compare it to a known authentic Cartier of the same model. 

Remember, fake Cartier watches will appear much lighter than authentic ones, and if you ever get a chance to compare the two side by side, it would benefit you greatly to do so, as you can never be too sure. 

One critical method of examining Cartier’s attention to detail is to study its dials. Genuine Cartier dials are renowned worldwide by watch enthusiasts for their precise printing, legible markers, and iconic Roman numerals. 

Authentic Cartier timepieces feature evenly spaced text and numerals that are very precise and proportional, aligning in perfect symmetry with the rest of the dial. The printing should be sharp, with no signs of blurring or smudging, and there should be no inconsistencies anywhere on the dial. Depending on the specific models, there may be a combination of Roman numerals and stick markers, with each complimenting the other in a geometrically pleasing way. 

Counterfeit dials often fail to meet the pristine standards of authentic pieces. In most cases, the printing appears blurry and inconsistent, with misaligned numerals and markers improperly spaced. The numerals may have incorrect shapes or sizes as well, and oftentimes, they will be printed using a format that contradicts Cartier’s official font. 

The quality of the hands comes into play as well. Genuine Cartier’s have hands that are finely crafted and perfectly proportioned to the dial, with smooth finishing and a fluid movement that emulates the flawless mechanics propelling them. Fake watches have hands that are poorly finished. Some are even bent or do not align correctly with the markers. 

Authentic Cartier watches prioritize high-quality, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass to enhance the durability of the watch and add to the overall luxury and pristine craftsmanship. When looking at a Cartier, be sure to examine the quality and condition of the glass to determine whether or not it comes from authentic Cartier manufacturers. 

Sapphire crystal glass is known to be extremely resistant to scratches. It’s a synthetic material and is up there with pure diamond in terms of its Mohs scale hardness. This makes it so true Cartier watches are highly unlikely to scratch under typical wearing conditions, ensuring that the watch’s integrity is preserved over extended periods. True Cartier glass will look flawless and will reflect light beautifully, while fakes will more than likely have blemishes and scratches that will appear obvious if you look hard enough. 

Because of the inferior glass materials—such as plastic or mineral crystal—the fakes are far more likely to fall victim to extreme wear and damage, with the glass being worn down faster than authentic Cartier’s. You will quickly notice the aesthetic of fake glass as time goes on because fake materials are far less durable than the real thing. 

In order to test the quality of the glass, gently rub a soft cloth over the surface. If it is smooth and resistant, it is an authentic sapphire crystal; if it is softer or if it scratches, it is most likely a fake. Obviously, use extreme caution when practicing this method. Sapphire glass is strong, but there is always a risk of scratching an authentic Cartier as well. 

Conclusion

There is a reason that Cartier watches are widely recognized as one of the top watch brands. They have spent decades perfecting their craft, ensuring every region of every piece is flawlessly tuned and polished so that their customers always know exactly what they are putting on their wrists. 

Everyone that has experience with Cartier watches knows just how pristine their craftsmanship is. While good fakes can be difficult to spot with an untrained eye, once you closely examine the ways in which a real and a fake differ, it is painstakingly obvious which one has been labored over more. 

Cartier captures a particular magic that you can’t quite recreate, and any attempt to do so is an insult to each artist who has dedicated their life to this craft, ensuring their customers are getting the highest quality timepiece that will last them a lifetime. 

At this point, it’s not up for debate that watches are masterful works of art. Today, the skill of the average watchmaker is the highest it’s ever been, with designs only increasing in aesthetical prowess, polishing becoming more precise and elegant, and the mechanics only becoming more intricate and more dynamic. 

As watchmakers hone their craft and continue to give us complicated masterpieces that defy everything we thought was possible in the world of horology, it can become increasingly difficult to keep up with all the designs and materials, but most of all, movements. 

Just how precise do you need your watch to be? Does speed have anything to do with it? What is frequency? What does “beats per hour” mean? All valid questions that can confuse many who consider themselves experts in the field. 

Explaining the Frequency of Watch Movements

To explain it as simply as possible, a watch’s frequency is explained by the total number of oscillations the hairspring and balance wheel perform over time. This information is shared in either the movement’s total Hertz (Hz) or vibrations/beats per hour (vph/bph). 

If a watch ticks at 10 hz or 72,000 vph/bph, this means that the balance wheel is experiencing 72,000 oscillations per hour. But how is that determined? (Stay with me; we’re going to have to do a little math.) 

A single oscillation translates to a total of two vibrations/beats per second. A vibration or beat is only counted when the balance moves in a single direction and the oscillation is counted when it moves back to its original position (this is the tick tock sound that you hear when you press your ear up against the dial.) Because it swings back and forth like a pendulum, there are two movements (tick and tock) before the oscillation occurs. 

For a 10hz watch, ten oscillations per second equals twenty vibrations/beats in the same period. Since there are 3,600 seconds in an hour, you multiply twenty vibrations/beats by 3,600 to get 72,000 vph/bph.

At first glance, it can be confusing. Once you understand how fast your watch moves, however, it’s quite simple to calculate the vph/bph—and that’s if you have to calculate it at all; most watches simply tell you. 

Watches have evolved from the simple, slow-moving mechanical pieces from back in the day. Traditional, low-frequency mechanical pieces are timeless classics, most would agree, but now, with the introduction of quartz technology, watches are able to reach frequencies never before imagined by anyone in the scene. 

Despite the dominance of quartz moveme,nt however, many watchmakers sought to revolutionize mechanical watches by producing a new type of movement called High-Beat movement. These pieces aim for a frequency exceeding 28,800 vph/bph, aiming for even greater precision while keeping the iconic look of traditional mechanical pieces. 

As the industry continues to evolve, I would encourage all enthusiasts to properly research what kind of movement they are looking for, and what it does concerning the rest of the piece. 

As new movements develop and technology advances, the potential for watchmaking only grows, with new power looking to be harvested around every corner, and truly revolutionary frequencies waiting to be discovered and enjoyed by all enthusiasts and casual wearers alike. I am excited, and you should be too. 

Different Watch Frequency Speeds

The four most common frequency speeds are:

• 28,800 vph (4Hz)

• 21,600 vph (3Hz)

• 36,000 vph (5Hz)

• 18,000 vph (2.5Hz)

If you are looking for anything faster and more accurate, you’re most likely going to be spending a little more money while shopping at more widely recognized names. For the average consumer—and even a collector who does not particularly care about the movement of his piece—these speeds will do more than enough. 

Higher frequencies are associated with more high-end names, but there are plenty of “slower pieces” that are considered to be extremely well-made watches. Don’t think that your watch has to reach an absurd frequency to be considered a “proper piece” (whatever that means). There are plenty of other factors that can contribute to the quality of your watch’s movement. 

Is Speed the Only Thing that Matters in a Watch Movement?

Speed is only one of the key ingredients that a high-quality watch requires to perform well. We already talked about watch frequency, but there are many more components that regulate accuracy, the precision of the gears, and many more. 

For example, jewels in watches aren’t just for show. Although they do look beautiful, they act as bearings for the gear train. Jewels have little to no friction, which makes them perfect for helping move the energy from one part of the watch to another. 

Jeweling was invented at the beginning of the 18th century, and the advantages it brought to the table were made clear once the production of synthetic rubies became more practical and common. Today, most jewels are friction fit into the watch movement. 

Funny enough, there is much more information associated with water resistance than you might think. There are two different standards for water resistance—divers watches and normal watches. 

The primary difference is the rigor and frequency of testing. For example, say you were wearing a watch with a 30-meter water resistance. That means that your watch will most likely be okay should you decide to submerge yourself 30 meters underwater (recreational diving takes place between 30 and 40 meters; that’s why this information is relevant). 

But, for diving watches, the testing criteria would obviously have a higher standard because divers are exposing themselves to higher water pressures. The standard for dive watches is 100-meter water resistance at a minimum, which is double the depth of recreational measurements, so any modern watch at that rating would be exceptional for any basic water activity. 

Most people won’t need anything beyond that, but for the deep-divers, there are watches that come with a 300-meter water resistance. If any casual watch wearers were to purchase one of those, then be assured your piece will never even feel damp, let alone damaged.

At this point, most automatic watch movement is universal, with most clocking in at 28,800 vph. Countless engineering decisions achieve every mechanical movement, each one coming essentially at the expense of the other.  

For example, a high-beat movement will come with better rate stability, assuming that all other factors are equal—but all other factors are never equal. What makes the watch movement seem like a never-ending dilemma is how the problems and benefits of various beat rates are addressed in the movement itself. A modern watch running at 18,000 vph should immediately catch your eye. Anything above 28,800 should as well. 

I guess the final question that remains is: is a high frequency actually better? To put it simply, watches that beat at a higher rate are more accurate because the faster the balance oscillates, the quicker the recovery time. The tradeoff, however, is that due to the faster and more frequent movement, wear and tear is increased because there is far more pressure being placed on the wheel pivots. 

So, if you purchase a watch with a higher frequency, be sure to schedule routine checkups to ensure that wear and tear doesn’t cause any substantial damage. A high-beat watch isn’t necessarily better than a low-beat watch; it just means they are different. Each presents their own benefits and drawbacks. 

For example, a lower-frequency watch wouldn’t have to be checked up on as much because it’s not putting as much strain on the wheel pivots as the higher-frequency watch is. Lowering the frequency also raises the watch’s overall power reserve. This is because less energy is being consumed due to the slower movement, allowing for a longer duration. 

The drawback of low frequency is that—obviously—you are getting a less accurate reading, and it’s not moving as fast. It all just depends on what you deem to be the most valuable aspect of your timepiece. 

Every avenue of watch preference (and preference of all things in life, for that matter) comes down to what you personally want as a consumer. 

We live in a world where nothing is perfect, and we will always have to sacrifice one thing to gain the benefits of another. I can’t tell you whether a higher frequency is better or worse than a lower frequency. I can only give you the facts of each and let you decide which one is calling your name. 

Conclusion

I know, I know, there’s a lot of information. Realistically, this article could have filled ten pages talking about the intricacy and minute details of the inside of your watch, but I didn’t want to torture anyone. 

I hope that it’s all a little more clear and that you have grasped the basic understanding of what everything means so that you can decide for yourself what fits you. 

Because—ultimately—there’s no right or wrong answer, but there is a substantial difference between someone who has no concept of the facts and is shopping for watches blindly and someone who is more informed and won’t waste their money on a watch that they hate. My best advice is to stay educated and informed on all the latest watch news so that when it comes time to purchase, you know exactly what you are buying. 

Dials are undoubtedly the focal point for any watch. They’re engineered to capture the buyer’s attention, flaunting all the aesthetical prowess the maker chooses to put on display. Mechanics aside, sometimes dials are the make-or-break decision when it comes to purchasing a watch. 

Buyers tend to gravitate to what suits them, whether that be bold and flamboyant or stylish and elegant. Variety is the name of the game. Watch-makers know what their buyers want, and they know the significance of a dial’s color. So many master watchmakers incorporate philosophical themes or stoic symbolism in their pieces. 

At its core, this design choice starts with the dial color. Watches meant to mimic the ocean tend to have blue dials, and ones meant to mirror freshly fallen snow in a forest tend to be white. The color scheme of a dial preaches more than just aesthetical literacy. It communicates the message the artist is trying to relay through their creation. 

As we explore how each color portrays that message to their wearer, keep in mind that everyone’s preferences differ. What stands out to you may not stand out to someone else. The beauty in diversity is that—whether you realize it or not—everyone has a piece out there that speaks to them. 

The Meaning Behind Different Watch Dial Colors

Think of watch dials as a painter’s canvas. Artists love to preach to their audience in ways that often go unnoticed. A watch dial essentially follows the same principle. Different colors mean different things, and they communicate in ways that many wearers miss. 

Black  

Black represents power, professionalism, strength, and quiet confidence. It’s one of the first classical dial colors, and its versatility suits any formal occasion and casual wear. Having a black dial makes it easier to tell the time, as black dials are almost always accompanied by bright hands that are extremely legible. 

Black dials have a sharp sense of commanding authority, as if the wearer knows they are in charge but is too humble to say so. Black dials tend to accompany more modern pieces, encouraging a revolutionary sense of innovation and acting as a mark of the modern age.  

Blue

Blue signifies reliability, stability, inspiration, and wisdom. There is an intelligent tone that blue dials carry. They are calming, look elegant and sharp, and are slightly more relaxed than black, white, or silver dials. Watchmakers will typically accompany the color blue with themes of the ocean or sky, modeling the shade after one of the two to give the wearer a story to go with their piece. 

Being a primary color, blue goes well with many outfits, making it one of the most popular watch dial colors out there. Often regarded as a newer dial shade, it caught watchmakers’ and enthusiasts’ eyes very quickly with its charm, cementing itself as a timeless color that can signify so much with such a small canvas. 

White 

White dials represent elegance, purity, and simplicity. Being universally resounding for all types of jewelry, clothing, accessories, and other types, white signifies versatility and a tranquil aesthetic for anything it accompanies. 

Because it’s a neutral color, white is a popular choice for watch dials as it accompanies almost any outfit and is fit to wear in any environment. A crisp, clean, legible view comes at a cost, however. 

Like anything colored white, stains or blemishes (or, in this case, scratches or smudges) are extremely noticeable. This could deter some from choosing a white dial, but if you are mindful of the way you treat your piece, then I think you will appreciate the iconic aesthetic a white dial brings. 

Silver 

Silver dials represent a wide variety. Some associate it with power and authority, while others view it as a symbol of the unknown. It is well regarded as being a very high-end color, which is why it usually accompanies the more pricey pieces. 

Like white, it is very legible and sleek, regarded as another one of the most popular dial colors for its simple yet beautiful look. Silver dials perfectly contrast the hands, making them stand out more than other colors and giving them a beautiful backdrop that displays the beauty of both designs. 

Gold

Gold dials represent wealth and opulence. Having a watch made of real gold is one of the most expensive varieties out there. Too much can look tacky, but the right amount can serve for a unique aesthetic that fits the look you’re trying to create. 

A well-made gold dial typically applies a thin layer of gold to the surface to give it a warm glow. Yes, bold, but not too bold to overwhelm the piece and make it look flashy. There is a timeless sense of elegance that comes from a gold dial as they often signify the rich history of the piece they accompany. 

A “gold watch” is an iconic statement in and of itself, which allures buyers just from the name alone, and while not necessarily everyone’s cup of tea, gold dials definitely have a wide variety of buyers that will eagerly pay for the bold look. 

Red 

Red dials represent a unique energy and a strong sense of courage and confidence. They are bold and full of flavor. Being one of the brightest dial colors, they will undoubtedly attract eyes, which is what wearers want. 

Red represents emotions like love, anger, and passion, and those same emotions are often incorporated into the pieces, invoking a sense of pride in the wearer as they wear their emotions on their wrist. Silver hands and indices pair really nicely with a red dial, bringing out the boldness as they complement each other. Buyers who love bold will be drawn to red. 

Green

Green symbolizes hope or renewal. Often accompanied by themes of spring, green dials instill a calming sense in the wearer, almost encouraging you to acknowledge the beauty of nature as you admire your piece. 

Dark greens are very stylish, giving a sleek and elegant aesthetic, while lighter greens are bolder and invoke stronger emotions. Both preach the same message: that there is tremendous beauty in change and that sometimes uncertainty can lead to something greater than we could have ever imagined. 

Orange

Orange represents a sense of happiness. It is a warm color and strikes a feeling of enthusiasm in its wearer. Being another bold, bright color, it’s very expressive with its emotions, often holding nothing back. Orange dials—like red—are designed to capture the energy of their wearer, incorporating the realism of human nature while also maintaining the artistic style. 

Due to its unique nature and look, it’s a very difficult color to match your wardrobe. If you are interested in purchasing an orange dial, be sure to plan accordingly and wear outfits that compliment the bold nature of your watch. 

Yellow

Like red and orange, yellow symbolizes the purest of human emotion. Joy, sunlight, warmth, and comfort are all felt when gazing upon a yellow dial. Arguably, it is one of the boldest choices in watch-wear and one of the rarest as well. If you are looking for something that will make your wrist pop, then look no further. Yellow dials attract eyes far and wide, and on bright, sunny days, they match the tone of the weather extremely well. 

The bright nature, as you would expect, makes them very hard to match with. You might be better off just accepting that your wrist is in a realm of its own should you decide to wear a yellow watch. Although I’m sure if you dive into the deepest part of your wardrobe, you’ll be able to style an outfit around your wrist-wear, it will take much longer than any other color. 

Which Dial Colors Are Most Popular?

The most popular colors tend to be the more simplistic ones. Black is a classic choice that many would say is the undisputed most popular color. Black goes with everything; it’s not too bold or tacky, and it brings out the watch’s other features to ensure that the whole piece looks spectacular on your wrist. 

White and silver go hand in hand and would be considered by others to be the most popular choice for the same reasons as black. It boils down to preference at that point. White and silver—in my opinion—convey their themes more effectively than a black watch, which gives them a few extra points. Also, a white and silver dial combined with a titanium bracelet and case back is one of my favorite combinations that captures everything I love about finely-tuned timepieces. 

With all that being said, my personal favorite dial color is blue. The tone that a blue dial sets over the piece is unmatched. It’s rich, sleek, elegant, but not too overbearing. It’s just as popular as black, white, and silver but also aesthetically outperforms them at every turn. 

I think it perfectly matches with just about anything in your wardrobe, highlighting even the most low-key outfits and elevating your style quite noticeably. A blue dial paired with a blue bezel simply looks divine. I could go on and on about why blue is my favorite, but I frankly don’t know if I have enough room on the page. 

Which Dial Color Is Best for You?

If you are looking for bold, energetic pieces, lighter colors like red, orange, and yellow are right up your alley. They typically match the wearer’s energy and can be worn on brighter days so that you can experience the full range of their aesthetic prowess. 

White, silver, black, and blue—as mentioned before—are the most popular colors. They go with just about anything. Whether you’re at a business party, a formal occasion, or just hanging out with friends, those colors will suit your every need and elevate casual and dressier outfits. 

Obviously, you need to match your style according to the color, but it should prove to be quite simple as the colors’ most notable feature would be how easy they are to compliment other aspects of your outfit. 

Green and gold can fit into either category. Depending on the shade and how you style them, they could either look bold and vibrant, displaying all of the pristine features, or they can be more relaxed and sleek as you intentionally tone them down to deliver a more unique aesthetic. 

I would say that these two colors are the more “wild card” choices as it more heavily depends on how the wearer utilizes them rather than how the watchmaker intended them to be utilized. 

Conclusion

Dials are the focal point of your piece. You want to be sure that the one you choose effectively emulates your personal style and tone. Colors are the means by which dials communicate. Everyone’s interpretation of art can differ. That’s why it’s essential that you choose a color you understand and one that understands you. Don’t let what’s “popular” guide your way of thinking. You are the only one who knows your style and the only one who can effectively elevate your wear by choosing a piece that encapsulates all of your best features. 

Any well-made watch would be a proficient choice. It’s evident when artists take themselves seriously, and the level of detail watchmakers commit themselves to speaks volumes about their characters and their testimonies as artists. Purchase pieces from makers you trust, and be sure to appreciate the high level of effort and artistic brilliance that goes into every piece.

It seems that every time I talk about Grand Seiko, I spend all my time raving about their elegance and innovation, praising them for their craftsmanship and attention to detail. They have managed to capture the essence of watchmaking and seem to personally inject whatever secrets they hold into each and every piece. The Grand Seiko SLGW003 is a striking testament to this philosophy. 

Part of the Evolution 9 collection, the SLGW003 is a relatively newer entry to the iconic family that houses so many recognizable names. It comes equipped with the Grand Seiko Caliber 9SA4, the first manual-winding 36,000 vph mechanical movement Grand Seiko has created in nearly 50 years. 

They incorporate the manual design to forge a deeper connection between the watch and the wearer, claiming that the ritual winding of a watch is one of life’s pleasures. In the 60s and 70s, Seiko produced numerous manually wound pieces, attempting to deliver higher precision to each design. 

This watch signifies their grand return to these more old-fashioned pieces, but not without improving upon the original design, displaying their drive to always increase their level of craftsmanship. 

Wrapped in a shroud of sophistication with the advanced technology of the modern age, the SLGW003 delivers on all fronts, ensuring that the wearer looks their best while being easy to read, wind, and wear. 

History

Released in 2021, the Grand Seiko SLGW003 immediately made a name for itself among the Evolution 9 collection. Drawing inspiration from Japan’s rich cultural heritage and birch forests that reside near the Grand Seiko headquarters, this watch embodies the striking beauty of Japanese nature, as well as the detail-oriented precision of Japanese society. 

Taking inspiration from the old manually wound 10-beat designs from the ’60s and ’70s, this watch could be considered both a throwback and a step forward. It incorporates old themes and new functions that excel in practicality and leave the wearer in awe of its mechanical prowess.

Case 

Titanium cases are among my favorite materials. Lightweight, sleek, luminescent, and subtle, they satisfy every desire and check every box when it comes to the beauty of your pieces’ case. Grand Seiko’s hard titanium comes with all the benefits of regular titanium, incorporating a beautiful Zaratsu polishing that only adds to the beauty. 

The diameter is 38.6mm, the lug-to-lug is 45.0mm, and the thickness is 9.95mm, measuring very thin all across the board. The contorted lugs help with wearability and give it an even slimmer aesthetic, which will appeal to many of you who prefer the sleeker designs. 

The Zaratsu finish accompanies both the inner crease and the bezel, while matte finishing accompanies the sides of the case. The sapphire crystal protects the dial while rising slightly above the rest of the case due to it being slightly domed. The casing has been made with a low center of gravity to ensure that it still sits securely on your wrist, no matter how light it is. 

The crown protrudes from the three positions, proudly embroidered with the GS logo. And when you turn the case around, you are met with the welcomed surprise of an open case-back so that you can view the mechanical integrity of the piece.

The case exemplifies an understated charm, reinforcing the significance of the watch’s other features while also catching the wearer’s eye with its beautiful titanium elegance. Successfully designed casing exists for two significant reasons: First, it has to look aesthetically pleasing by itself, but the most important reason is that it has to elevate everything around it. 

The beauty of the watch starts with the casing. It serves as a foundation around which the other features center themselves. Grand Seiko has delivered an effective foundation and, by using its staggering beauty, has crafted one of its most impressive pieces yet.

Dial

The dial is highly textured with a unique white birch tree bark style that is unique to this series. While at first, it may seem familiar, as the SLGH005 appears very similar to the Grand Seiko SLGW003, the white birch pattern has far more textures on the SLGW003, and the pattern is moving horizontally on the SLGW003 as opposed to vertically on the SLGH005. 

The bezel seems to focus on giving the watch a dressier appeal as the textures breathe an unprecedented style of luxury and pristine craftsmanship that is far more detailed than anything we’ve seen before. 

Other than the Grand Seiko logo and the text at 6 o’clock, there are no complications in the dial, ensuring that the wearer is satisfied with the symmetry and cleanliness that the dial seeks to emulate.  

The indices are broad and easy to read, taking the common shape of the Series 9 style. They are polished to perfection and give a beautiful complementary look to the backdrop of the dial, standing out from the birch-wood background in an elevated manner. 

The same goes for the hands. When everything on the dial is the same color, it tends to blend together. This piece brings out a stark boldness to each feature while keeping them all the same shade. Nothing seems out of place or distracting. The hands are elegant and slender, which goes well with the size of the piece itself. 

This is one of the cleanest dials we’ve seen from Grand Seiko, and it is among my personal favorites. The birch-wood texture’s underlying simplicity and the titanium’s elegance seem to be a combination sent from heaven to give us one of the most extraordinary designs. The removal of a date window does many favors for the integrity of the dial as well. 

Part of the beauty comes from the symmetry, and I feel like if you tried to fit anything else in the dial, then it would undermine the original vision. Skilled watchmakers know when to restrain themselves. 

Sometimes, less is more, and Grand Seiko seemed to go into this project with that idea in mind. I would say it worked very well for them, and I’m eager to see if they replicate this design choice in any future pieces. 

Movement

Engineered with the sole purpose of providing the ultimate hand-winding experience, the Caliber 9SA4 comes with a pleasing winding sound, demonstrating its craftsmanship and quality. It has a high frequency of 10 vibrations per second, which accounts for the 80 hours of power reserve. 

This is the first hand-wound, high-beat movement that Grand Seiko has produced in more than 50 years, and given how they treat the rest of their works, you can be sure that the 9SA4 has been finely tuned and perfected with the same attention to detail as all of their other pieces. 

Grand Seiko has rearranged the gear train and redesigned many parts, ensuring that the Caliber 9SA4 achieves a power reserve of 80 hours with 15 percent fewer crown rotations than the Caliber 9SA5. 

This plays a role in the slimness of the watch and explains how a manual watch can achieve these kinds of numbers. It is also extremely accurate, with a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a normal usage accuracy of +8 to -1 seconds per day. 

On a day-to-day basis, this watch is going to provide you with everything you need and more. An 80-hour power reserve from a manual is quite the treat, and the luxury it emits while you wind it is a nice little bonus feature that wearers can enjoy. The beauty of the 9SA4 cannot be understated. 

With 47 jewels, it shines from the open case back and adds to the aesthetic of the entire piece. Watching it subtly rotate and shift presents another theme to the design. Grand Grand Seiko claims that manual watches help us feel more attached to our pieces and help us appreciate the passing of time as we observe the mechanical power. 

The open case back was a necessary choice to ensure that connection is felt while it is being worn. As time passes, the wearer can appreciate that this watch will never change and that with every turn of the crown, you can be sure that the integrity of the watch never falters.

Straps

The strap is black and made out of crocodile leather with matched stitching and a three-fold clasp. It feels very premium and supple, almost as if it’s already been worn in. This could be a pro or a con, depending on whether or not you appreciate a more natural feel on your wrist or you want to wear the strap yourself. 

The light reflects very solemnly off the black leather, giving it a glare that can either complement the whiteness of the dial or contrast it due to its dark natural colors. Both of these looks are very aesthetically pleasing in their own right, but I prefer the subtle compliments that the lighter shade gives. One mark of a good strap is whether or not it can transform when the light hits it just right. 

It can completely change the piece’s overall look in both positive and negative ways. This is undoubtedly a positive, as the birch texture of the dial fits comfortably in between the two glowing sides of the leathery straps. 

You most likely won’t want to change this beautiful strap, but the drilled lugs and 20mm lug width will make the process seamless. This piece benefits greatly from a leather strap because the casing and the dial reflect a sleeker, more reserved look. The watch itself is very thin, and I feel a steel bracelet would appear disproportionate compared to the rest of the watch. 

The crocodile leather is one material that has grown on me. I was hesitant about complimenting it when I first saw it, but this piece has single-handedly made me appreciate what can be done with the simple material. The texture is beautiful, comfortable, easy to swap, and frankly doesn’t miss. 

On-Wrist Experience

The dimensions make the watch very suitable for a wide variety of wrists, extending from as low as 6 inches to as high as about 7.5 inches or more. You won’t run into many issues fitting the watch. 

Thanks to the titanium, it feels very smooth and lightweight compared to a stainless steel watch, weighing just enough to remind you that it’s still on your wrist while not being overly heavy to the point of discomfort. Sleekly polished and finished to perfection, the titanium shines like glass, while the soft curved lugs ensure a snug fit.

The minimalist dial contributes to the overall sense of refinement, and the leather strap has the unique feel of molding to your wrist over time, almost as if it was made specifically for the individual wearer. The small nature makes it easy to slide under cuffs, which may be an advantage for those of you who prefer that style. 

Although I found that wearing this piece on the outside of your cuffs does tremendous work on the aesthetic Plus, I don’t know why you would want to hide this piece. It should be something you feel proud to show off. 

Overall, I’ve found this is a dressier watch—not to argue against the idea of wearing it in another environment. The heftier price alone alludes to its high-end nature, and dressing accordingly would elevate the luxurious nature of the piece even higher. 

But—and don’t get me confused—you would be fine wearing it in any environment because you’re not sacrificing comfort for something more pristine. In this piece, comfort and beauty walk side by side, so the wearer shouldn’t be concerned about when or when not to wear it. 

Pricing

You can find the Grand Seiko SLGW003 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. 

A brand-new SLGW003  can be picked up for $11,000. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 9-10k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion 

For being the first hand-wound, high-beat manual watch in over 50 years, Grand Seiko surpassed all expectations in its momentous return and has left fans eager for more manual pieces like this one. 

The sleekness, the quality of the material, and attention to detail ensure that it’s not only a reliable companion but a statement on the wrist, communicating how in-tune with the beauty of time Grand Seiko has remained as they ceaselessly strive to bind a stronger connection between their art and those who wear it. 

It can be suitable for daily wear or an elevation to your wardrobe. The Grand Seiko SLGW003 stands as a sophisticated choice that won’t go unnoticed, and as the brand evolves, its level of sophistication will undoubtedly evolve with it. 

Many horology enthusiasts and collectors appreciate the aesthetic appeal of a pristine timepiece. A fine polished watch can elevate a piece’s look, making the elegant stainless steel shimmer as it sits on your wrist. Polishing can restore a watch to its former glory, removing scratches and blemishes that develop over time. This can lead to an increase in resale value, as well as enhance the visual appeal. 

Like everything, however, polishing has drawbacks. In some instances, polishing can significantly alter a watch’s original design features, such as bevels and edges, potentially erasing iconic designs or historical significance engraved on the piece. Over-polishing can also thin the case, weakening the structural integrity and, in some cases, diminishing the value.  

Understanding the pros and cons of watch polishing helps collectors make educated decisions about their precious pieces. It also helps them balance the desire for a flawless aesthetic with the preservation of the watch’s original design.  

Why is Watch Polishing Important?

An essential part of watch maintenance is ensuring that your watch is in the most pristine condition possible. You’ve invested a lot of money into your piece, and part of that investment requires you to maintain its appearance and functionality. Polishing restores the watch’s original luster and shine, enhancing its overall appearance. This is particularly important for luxury watches, where the visual appeal can make all the difference in desirability and value.

Take a sunburst dial, for example. Its reflective nature means that even the most minor scratches or imperfections can be quite noticeable. Because the finish is designed to reflect light, any blemish can disrupt the smooth pattern of the dial’s surface, but polishing these dials helps restore them to the original vision the watchmaker had when they designed the piece. 

A guilloche dial’s complex design can benefit greatly from regular polishing as well. 

Deep scratches can compromise the intricate design, so it’s necessary to help maintain the detail that the guilloche is known for. Otherwise, the significance and value are depleted, and the guilloche dial loses its flare. 

Why you should polish your watch 

Depending on who you ask, polishing could prove to be the most valuable benefit to your timepiece. Some enthusiasts may insist upon a pristine-looking, top-of-the-line, well-polished watch, while someone else may prefer something a little more old school. Regardless of how you feel, there are some objective benefits from having a well-polished watch. 

The most obvious benefit is that polishing restores shine and erases blemishes that may have built up over time. If you wear your most prized timepiece every day, it’s guaranteed that, eventually, it will start to look worn and dull. A fresh polish can erase any sense of wear and tear and restore your piece to its former glory. 

A well-polished watch can also hold its value for a longer period of time. An expensive timepiece could be a long-term investment. If you plan to trade or sell your watch in the future, you’ll want to make sure it’s in pristine condition so you can charge the most money possible. 

Corrosion is one of the most common ways watches can deteriorate. The build-up of dirt and grime can completely diminish the look and value of your piece. Polishing can completely remove the harmful effects of corrosion, ensuring that your watch stays in its healthiest condition. 

Good polishing can also improve the clarity and legibility of the dial. With constant use, your piece’s dial becomes harder to read over time. Dirt builds up and smudges the crystal, and before you know it, the key function of the watch is deemed illegible. Polishing can remove dirt from the glass face of the dial, returning full legibility to your piece so that you can go about your day-to-day life always knowing the time. 

And finally, a well-polished piece perhaps serves the greatest purpose of all: personal satisfaction. What’s the point of investing in a watch you’re disappointed with every time you look at your wrist? Polishing can restore the aesthetic you originally fell in love with so that you feel pride whenever you look down and gaze at your beautiful piece. 

Why you should not polish your watch

While extremely beneficial to the watch’s overall aesthetics, polishing does come with its fair share of risks. Improper polishing techniques can scratch or damage the watch’s surface, particularly for delicate materials like acrylic or certain finishes. 

There’s also the risk of the watch losing its value. For vintage or collector watches, polishing can remove the original patina, which some collectors hold to an extremely high value. There’s also the risk of the polishing completely erasing a historical mark or engraving embedded within the piece, taking away the historical significance it may have previously held. 

The threat of overpolishing is ever-present as frequent polishing risks thinning the metal on cases and bracelets, leading to structural issues over time. The loss of aesthetics is one thing, but the damage to the watch itself is a much more severe risk that enthusiasts should be mindful of.

Warranty concerns pose a threat as well. Some manufacturers may void warranties if a watch is polished improperly, as it can affect the watch’s integrity and diminish its overall value. So, if you ever intend to resale or refund your piece, the number one priority is to ensure there is no damage or blemishes from improper polishing that could deter potential buyers. 

Another popular reason to avoid polishing your watch is simply personal preference. Some enthusiasts prefer a watch’s character as it ages, preferring a more worn look rather than a polished finish. 

There’s objectively no wrong choice when it comes to whether or not you want your watch to be polished. It all depends on outliers and personal preferences. The only thing you must be sure of is that you are getting your watch polished by somebody who knows what they are doing. 

Should you polish your watch yourself? 

If you have an experienced hand, polishing your watch yourself can have tremendous advantages and can be extremely convenient. 

The first clear advantage is affordability. DIY polishing saves you money compared to professional services. It also ensures that you can polish in your own time, basing your services completely on your own schedule. 

As with any DIY project, it can be a rewarding experience to learn about the intricacy of your watch and how to care for it. Just be sure that you have all the proper tools and that you know enough not to completely destroy the watch. Developing your skill through a DIY polishing project can be very satisfying when you successfully restore your watch’s shine and finally understand how to properly unlock the full potential of your piece. 

There are some drawbacks to DIY polishing as well, the obvious being the risk of damage. Scratching and damaging the watch becomes very easy without the proper tools and technique. Only pursue a DIY project if you have a careful hand and are willing to take the time to learn the proper methods. 

Of course, with your lack of expertise, professionals may prove to be the more efficient route. They have the capabilities and the experience to handle all sorts of pieces and the proper tools to safely polish your watch. You may not be privy to everything needed to properly restore your piece, but professionals know exactly what they are dealing with the minute you bring it in. 

As mentioned before, over-polishing is one of the most harmful things that can happen to your piece, and it’s a lot easier to over-polish than you might think. Let’s assume you know the tools you need as well as the proper techniques, but how do you know when to stop? You could end up doing everything right, but your watch still winds up in a worse condition than when you started because you didn’t know when to stop polishing. This problem obviously can be fixed by going to a professional, but—as with everything—you can fix it yourself if you take the time to learn. 

The primary issue is time. Sure, if you spend hours researching and practicing, you can mimic what a professional does relatively well, but the simple question is: is it worth it? Some of you may want to simply enjoy your piece and quit worrying whether or not it’s at risk of being damaged. In that case, a professional is the way to go. 

At the same time, some of you may be committed to learning every step and crave the satisfaction of gradually seeing your watch returned to its previous elegance. The only thing I advise is to be careful. There is really no wrong choice here, as long as you are actually committed to learning and are willing to put in the hours to learn the skill yourself. 

Conclusion

The decision to polish your watch isn’t as much of an objective yes or no as it is on personal preferences and outlying situations. It ultimately depends on the level of importance you place on your individual piece. Does it need polishing? If it does, is it worth learning by yourself? Would the cost of polishing be worth it? You can only answer these questions. 

Some factors that can sway your decision-making are understanding the watch’s material, its historical significance, and the individual priorities in watch care. Before you make your decision, be sure you have a clear understanding of the improvements that can be made should you polish it, the disadvantages and risks that could arise, and above all, learn everything there is to know about your own watch and let that govern your decision-making process. 

By balancing all this information, you should come to a clear choice on whether or not you should pursue the avenue of watch polishing. The best advice that I can give is the simple fact that what works for someone else may not work for you. If anyone tells you that there is an objective answer to this question, they are plain wrong. Just do the research and take the time to learn, and the decision will become clear.