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The Pelagos lineup has stood out as one of the most versatile dive watches on the market. Often considered the peak of Tudor’s diving watch lineup, it is far more conventional and stylish than other dive watches of similar style.
The Pelagos 39 blends everything Tudor fans have come to love about their pieces into a virtually indestructible case that can withstand the deepest waters divers can find. It’s a chunky, bold piece that highlights Tudor’s commitment to giving their buyers exactly what they are searching for without leaving anything to be desired, as well as being unapologetically conventional for the heaviest of tasks.
This article will explore every inch of the Pelagos 39, examining what sets it apart from other dive watches, as well as highlighting the intricacies and design choices that convey the professionalism of Tudor as a whole.
History
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The framework for the Pelagos 39 was set by its older siblings in 2012. The original Pelagos offered three versions of a 42mm titanium dive watch measuring 14.4 mm thick and 50mm lug-to-lug, with a fully matte aesthetic.
It arrived in three colors: black, blue, or the vintage effect LHD, and was later evolved for the military-specific FXD, cementing the original Pelagos as the key representative of Tudor’s dive watches and, by extension, the entire market.
In August 2022, Tudor announced the all-new Pelagos 39. It kept the titanium exterior of the original, but Tudor decided to significantly slim down the entire piece to be smaller and generally more wearable. The case measures 39mm, the lugs 21mm, and the thickness 11.8mm, causing the older sibling to be smaller in stature.
Tudor made it clear that their goal with this piece was to reach a wider audience, preferably extending to male and female wear, while holding tight to the original’s roots. Tudor kept the original three on the market, making the 39 a blend of utility and style that wears far more simply. In this instance, appealing to the masses benefited Tudor because the original Pelagos was far more hefty than most preferred.
While the 39 is no moderate piece by any means, it achieves that slimmer style that so many look for while holding fast to its dive-watch origins. As we examine the details, keep in mind that the 39 is still a dive-watch through and through, created specifically to withstand high water pressure and anything else that could cause harm.
Case
As I mentioned before, the case measures in at 39mm, with a lug width of 21mm and a thickness of 11.8mm. It has a fairly simple titanium case design with fully brushed surfaces that go nicely with the dial. While being fairly large, the watch looks rather compact, almost like the engineers knew exactly what to fit where to optimize efficiency and give the wearer assurance of stability and durability.
Equipped with a sapphire crystal to limit scratches and a closed case back to ensure the safety of everything inside, divers can be sure that the 200m waterproof resistance will stand true even in the toughest of climates.
The bezel is completely satin-finished, which means it will have difficulty reflecting light. The grade 2 titanium gives it a very discreet look, but the sunburst ceramic it’s brushed with gives the appeal of a smooth, simplistic piece, and the block font mimics that of the traditional dive watches that Tudor fans are so accustomed to.
The only feature of the bezel that can compete with the aesthetic is the satisfying click it makes when you rotate it. I find that bezels you can interact with (and are fun to interact with, for that matter) tend to awaken a childlike urge to fiddle with something that makes a cool sound, and Tudors have some of the best bezel action on the market, allowing their wearers to twist and turn until that childlike desire is satisfied. The screw-down crown also shares the same teeth as the bezel, blending in perfectly with the rest of the piece so as not to steal any attention from the major features of the aesthetic.
All in all, the case is surprisingly thin for a watch of this caliber, something you wouldn’t necessarily expect from a dive watch. The sleek titanium allows for an aesthetical testament to accompany the practicality envisioned when designing this piece. It’s refreshing to have a watch that was designed with a utilitarian approach be so appealing to the eyes. The sheer idea that it’s a dive watch will undoubtedly deter the buyers that crave a traditional luxury piece, but for what it’s been dealt with, the 39 is a treasure in all departments.
Dial
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The dial is black and glossy, and it almost appears to be some sort of liquid, as if it’s trying to mimic the deep waters it will inevitably be thrust into. The handset is a stark contrast, being white as snow, and the blocky square markers of the same shade stand out like white pearls in the midst of a pitch-black inkwell.
All of them glow a bright blue as well, so as you traverse the deep seas, you will never be blind. It almost appears ghostlike on your wrist, with the grey undertone of the case mixing with the harsh black of the dial. In my opinion, this kind of aesthetic is one of the most appealing color schemes you could put on a watch. I love the subtle elegance that is aware of itself and knows not to do too much.
With four lines of text residing on the dial, the 39 shares brief similarities with the Rolex Submariner. The red “Pelagos” text that resides just below the hands gives it a much-needed pop of color that subtly contrasts the black and white. With no date window, the 39 is rounded out in perfect symmetry as the hands elegantly sweep along the surface of the pitch-black backdrop.
One complaint that is common among those who have studied this watch is that the luminescent blue glow of the hands appears more faint than the brighter glow on the bezel. While this is a very minor criticism, I found that the legibility is not impacted at all. It simply serves as an irritating nitpick that is fairly justified considering the price of the watch. If that doesn’t bother you (and it shouldn’t, too much), then this dial is perfect.
I, for one, am a big fan of the snowflake-like hands and how they reside over the infinite darkness of the dial like a source of light that will always be just out of reach. The tone that is set is an impactful one indeed, extending across the rest of the piece and reflecting positively on Tudor’s design choices.
Movement
Powered by a Manufacture Calibre MT5400, the Pelagos 39, simply put, is a powerhouse. It operates at a beat rate of 28,800 BPH and reserves enough power for three days of full use before charging—about seventy hours. It uses a variable inertia balance with a silicon balance spring, making the durability and magnetic resistance quite high and great for any situation.
The MT5400 is a no-date automatic chronometer (COSC). When Tudor and Kenissi first formed their partnership, the MT5400 came to be, fueling countless classic pieces such as the Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Using the same movement, the Pelagos 39 is a perfect addition to the star-studded collection that the MT5400 powers.
Straps
The main strap is a grade 2 titanium bracelet identical to the case. It measures 21mm across, ensuring a perfect fit. Equipped with Tudor’s proprietary T-fit clasp, much like the original Pelagos in 2012, the 39’s strap adjusts to the inevitable decrease in wrist size as your body adjusts to frigid waters. It has single screwed links and a 25mm wetsuit extension that is very similar to the original Pelagos.
In fact, this is probably the biggest difference between the original and the 39, as there is no T-clasp on the original. Needless to say, it’s a diver’s dream to have a strap of this quality while exploring the deepest waters—borderline unnoticeable and, for the size of the watch, extremely light.
The best feature, however, is the duality of the steel and rubber bracelet. The Pelagos 39 comes equipped with a second strap altogether, one of black rubber with a pin buckle and diving extension, which is arguably better for those deep sea expeditions. It captures a rough aesthetic that looks tough and worn, but it also manages to be soft and comfortable, optimizing comfort for swimmers and divers alike.
On-Wrist Experience
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To put it simply, this watch is very comfortable. I am not a diver. The deepest I’ll ever go in the ocean is a few feet past where it dips down. But while the watch was on my wrist, I took note of how it seemed to stay dry no matter how many times I plunged my wrist into the water.
I could tell that it was engineered to stay in the water for long periods of time, which, from a diver’s perspective at least, deems it a perfect piece. While it’s heavier than most traditional wristwear, it felt lighter in the water and was never irritating or noticeably uncomfortable.
For people with average wrist sizes, the 39 is a joy to wear. Being compact makes it feel lighter than it is, even with its measurements, and the titanium takes a great load off of what most would consider heavy. In fact, it works better for people with smaller wrists because everything on it fits so narrowly. Those with wrists below 6 inches will be thrilled at the comfort and flexibility of the piece, but those with 7.5-inch wrists may do better looking for something a bit bigger.
The Pelagos 39 is one of the lightest dive watches on the market, which, in my opinion, is the number one selling point. You may find watches with higher water resistance that will hold up under higher pressures (though most divers tend to stay above 660 ft), but there are few watches that offer this level of comfort while being virtually indestructible.
The revamp of the original Pelagos was a bold choice by Tudor but one that proved to greatly benefit enthusiasts who gravitate toward lighter pieces while also craving all the benefits of an authentic dive watch.
Pricing
A brand-new Pelagos 39 costs $4,700, and a used one ranges anywhere from $4,000 to $4,500. To put this in comparison, the standard Pelagos ranges between $3,900 and $4,700 but does not include the extra strap option of the 39.
You can find the Tudor Pelagos 39 from Tudor-authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Tudor.
Conclusion
I’m a new Tudor fan, and I have yet to be disappointed by any of their pieces. They offer a broad range of utilitarian and luxury watches, ensuring watch-lovers leave their stores satisfied and eager to explore their wide library of masterpieces. The Pelagos has been a treasure to research and wear, standing out to me because of its duality.
It attempts to combine the maximum amount of utility while maintaining a flawless aesthetic that will leave both sides of the spectrum exceedingly impressed. The price is admirable, too, especially when you compare it to like-minded pieces on the market. Overall, I can’t recommend the 39 enough and if you’re someone who desires what it offers, you will not be disappointed.