Grand Seiko SBGK017 Review – A Unique “Nanbu Tekki” Dial

If you consider yourself a fan of Grand Seiko watches, there is no disputing that you’ll have admired the tapestry of design elements, techniques, and traditional processes that the watchmakers of this company endure to create such spectacular creations. 

But have you ever really, I mean really, taken the time to immerse yourself in Grand Seiko’s philosophy – the spirit of Takumi? It’s where the seeds are sown for every innovation, including the SBGK017. The beating hearts (the movements) of these timepieces, created under the Takumi practice, are all inspired by the Nature of Time and, as the namesake suggests, take cues from nature around us.

The History of the SBGK017

Grand Seiko released the SBGK017 in 2022 as part of its Elegance Collection. It takes inspiration from Nanbu Tekki ironware. This traditional style of metalwork originated from the Iwate District during Japan’s Edo period. 

The watch belongs to a series renowned for its ornate dials and elevating Zaratsu polishing technique. In this article, we’re going to delve into the finer details of the SBGK017. First, let’s look at how this classic dress watch came to be.  

Grand Seiko’s penchant for creating highly sophisticated, technical, and beautiful timepieces originates from Japan’s unwavering obsession to compete with Western watchmakers. It was this innate drive that Grand Seiko owes its success to. 

Japan had been working towards becoming more independent, undergoing rapid industrialization following the Meiji Restoration of 1868. Its approach to watchmaking was gradual and subtle up until World War II. Before then, the Swiss held a 50% share of the global watch market and were supplying almost 70% of watch components to Japan.

Swiss dominance continued throughout the Second World War, while many other countries focused on war efforts. After the war, Japan focussed on researching Swiss watchmaking techniques and exploring the tools, methods, and machinery the country used in the art and practice of quintessential Haute Horlogerie. 

During this time, the founder of Seiko, Kintaro Hattori, opened two factories that would compete internally with one another. One produced the King Seiko model. The other manufactured the Grand Seiko.

This inter-brand rivalry would eventually culminate in both companies achieving the gold standard in most chronometer trials rolled out across Switzerland. Seiko became a serious contender in manufacturing accurate, technically sophisticated, yet classical-looking watches, producing innovations on par with the Swiss. The company’s quartz technology arrived during the 1960s, revolutionizing the future of watchmaking.

Catastrophically, the Swiss Market dropped in shares from 40% to 10% by the 1980s, while Japanese brands, including Casio and Citizen, soared to success. 

The market for affordable digital wristwatches had exploded, with LEDs that gave way to LCD technology, promising longer battery life than ever before. However, the Japanese market stagnated in the 1990s due to the rise of Chinese production. To diversify its higher-end offerings, Grand Seiko re-launched itself in the late 2000s.

In 2017, it would become a fully independent sub-brand. Its focus remained to create the “ideal watch” – a symbol of refinement and technical elegance. This came just a year after the brand launched its first black ceramic watch and the 8-day power reserve Spring Drive movement. The Grand Seiko name moved from 6 o’clock to the very top of the dial, symbolizing its journey to full independence.

Subsequently, Grand Seiko watches became more elevated, more refined, and more superior. They began featuring beautiful hand-engraved dials, jewellery-like masterpieces, and models that boasted movements that were more precise and powerful than ever before.

However, it was in 2019 when Grand Seiko watches gained a new identity. The Elegance Collection introduced a new design direction for the manufacturer. 

These models promised the strength and resilience to be worn every day but the grace and finesse to bring sophistication to every eventuality. Despite bridging the gap between classic and contemporary, some models pay homage to milestone models from the brand’s past.

Over the last few years, the collection has expanded to accommodate some very special timepieces that demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship. Watches from this collection lean into the dressier side of watchmaking. 

The dials are free from any intricate complications, instead offering simpler features like a date or GMT function. The displays are also clean and classic, lending to a very universal palette.

It makes sense that the only naysayers of the Grand Seiko name are those who tend to have had very little time on the wrist with them. I dare say that to fully appreciate the palpable beauty of a watch from the Elegance Collection like the SBGK017; one does have to shake hands with the timepiece and really get to know it. 

Upon doing so, you’ll quickly come to realize that Grand Seiko watches are every bit as beautiful as collectors say they are. The Elegance Collection SBGK017 watch is most deserving of this reputation and is no exception to the rule, as you’re about to find out.

The Case

Let’s get the basics out of the way first…

The Proportions

The Grand Seiko SBGK017 has a diameter of 39mm and a case depth of 11.6mm. The lug-to-lug measurement of the case is 44mm, and the watch is also 30-meter water resistant. It takes on the style of those watches belonging to the brand’s Thin Dress Series with a relatively slim profile, enabling it to slip easily under the cuff of a shirt. 

Its slim case will favor the watch well when it comes to pairing it with elegant evening attire or an office suit. The model features an exhibition caseback that grants a clear view of the working movement inside (we’ll get to that bit later), along with a non-screw-down crown.

Here’s where the case design gets interesting, however. The underside of the case is concave in shape, allowing the watch to sit closer to the skin. Grand Seiko specialists design this case with comfort in mind. 

Subtle, discreet details like this really do go a long way to achieving a more ergonomic fit for everyday wear. Unlike, say, the 44GS watches, for example – this model is anything but aggressive and sharp. Instead, its soft and flowing curves bring about an organic structure, allowing it to wrap nicely around the smaller-than-average male wrist.

The Zaratsu Case Polish

If you’ve spent a considerable amount of time with Grand Seiko watches before, you’ll know that the Zaratsu polishing technique is an exclusive and highly distinguishable feature of the famous Japanese brand’s watches. But this signature style didn’t just come overnight. It took the brand several years to research, trialing many different techniques until this exquisite and unique-looking execution was finally mastered. 

By perfecting the technique of Zaratsu polishing, Grand Seiko experts were able to achieve flat, smooth surfaces without any undesirable light distortion. Rather than softening the angle of the ridge that forms where two planes meet, GS craftsmen shelved the idea of buffing and instead turned to the skill of Zaratsu. 

Despite the refinement of CNC machining and cold forging, the completion of a Grand Seiko case still requires the expert skills of artisans who can sand a case, buff it until it’s smooth, and then finish it with the Zaratsu polish. As you can imagine, not everyone can be trusted with such a role.

The word “Zaratsu” takes its name from the company that owned the machinery that created this magnificent case finish. The execution is achieved by holding a moving surface firmly while facing it head-on towards a rotating disc clad with sandpaper. The result is an extraordinarily smooth surface. 

To bring the surface up to a mirror-polished effect, a final buffing is applied to the metal. The complexity of this process is often underestimated by enthusiasts. While Zaratsu polishing gives the watch a distinctive edge over other high-end competitors, there are hurdles to overcome. 

While one section may be polished beautifully, the left and right sides of the case may be uneven. The only way to tackle the problem is to increase the pressure that holds the surface against the wheel while checking the entire piece over.  It’s both an art form and a responsibility that only a few can master.

The Glass and Crown

The double-domed sapphire crystal in this Grand Seiko SBGK017 is quite pronounced. It looks raised and box-like, capturing a subtle vintage charm. Combined with the lug-to-lug measurement and a depth of nearly 12mm, the glass undoubtedly contributes to these crowd-pleasing proportions. 

One particular feature that collectors seem to love about this watch is the refinements of the winding crown. When winding up the watch, the crown stamped with the iconic Seiko logo is butter-smooth under the fingertips, adding to that all-important premium feel. A directional brushing on the sides of the case was mixed with the mirror-polished technique, too. 

You may not be able to venture into deep waters with this 30-meter water-resistant watch, but this is not a style you’ll likely want to do that with. Nevertheless, Grand Seiko experts do a superb job of combining all the features you need in a dressy, all-around daily beater.

The Dial

The dial is probably where this Grand Seiko watch differentiates itself the most when compared to other designs in the collection. The dial has become the signature feature of some of the most highly desirable GS watches, and many from this series are inspired by nature. Take the iconic snowflake-inspired dials, those that mimic falling blossoms or those that feature organic, earthy colors, for example.

There is a concentric and almost patisserie-like style to this dial. The pattern, which starts large at the periphery of the dial, gets gradually smaller as the layers work toward the center of the display. The effect is almost spiral-like. 

The multi-faceted markers also taper. And this is not a dial you’d instantly associate with nature because, this time, Grand Seiko doesn’t draw inspiration from the great outdoors. Instead, the dial is inspired by the textures found in the traditional Japanese art of Nanbu Tekki.

Nanbu Tekki is an age-old form of ironwork, common from the 1600s right through to the 1800s. As this is a manmade artform, rather than inspiration taken from nature, it makes for a particularly unique dial from Grand Seiko. This dial represents an age of classicism, which is very fitting considering the collection it belongs to. 

The textured dial is finished with facetted hands and a tapering needle-like hand for the power reserve indicator. As mentioned, the small seconds feature resides at 9 o’clock, giving more space and focus to the simple timekeeping elements of the dial.  

Upon looking even closer at the dial, I noticed that the tip of the minute hand has a slight curvature to comply with the curve of the dial. This cleverly rids the dial of any distortion when looking in at it from the side. This is a really nice touch because it’s not a design feature we see in many modern watches today.

The Movement 

The Calibre 9S63 was produced in 2019 as part of the 9S series, constituting a tried and tested movement that has proved incredibly reliable over the years. The mechanical manual movement has an impressive 72-hour power reserve once fully wound, enabling it to keep perfect time when you’re alternating the watch with other favorites in your collection. 

With an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day, the movement comprises 33 jewels for a smooth performance and has undergone an extensive regulation process that goes far beyond the standards we associate with those outside the METAS testing institute. 

The arrival of the Calibre 9S63 was an important one since it marked the first update within the 9S series in terms of a non-Spring Drive Calibre in 8 years. The reason for the wait stemmed from a complete overhaul of the movement and a redesign. 

It featured a small second sub-dial at 9 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Now, with 20% more components than before, this new generation 9S movement is a complete in-house effort. 

Painstaking efforts have been made to execute this movement. Even the grooves between each gear tooth have been polished by a watchmaker, one by one, to avoid friction. Fabricated parts of the movement are engineered by Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) technology, and tolerances of one-thousandth of a millimeter are tested and approved before the movement is fitted to the heart of the SBGK017.

The Bracelet 

Grand Seiko equips the SBGK017 model with a stylish 9-link bracelet that almost leans into Milanese bracelet territory. The links, although quite elongated, are packed tight into the design, enabling you to get a snug fit against the wrist despite the absence of a micro-adjustment feature. 

This model also comes with an additional black alligator leather strap and a stainless steel buckle to match the case design. The Seiko logo has been engraved into the fastening, doubling up as a symbol of authenticity and quality craftsmanship. 

The bracelet begins at 19mm at the lug end and then slowly transitions into a slightly slimmer clasp end, measuring in at 18mm. Tapering bracelets do, of course, create the impression of a smaller and more manageable fit on the wrist. Those collectors with wrists measuring on the smaller side will appreciate this element of the bracelet’s design.

As with every high-end purchase, a collector is going to want all the little trimmings that come with a special purchase like this, and Grand Seiko knows this. The manufacturer includes the paperwork outlining the regulations of the watch, which I think is a really nice touch. Of course, you also get the instructions booklet and the warranty certificate, along with a genuine Grand Seiko presentation box to keep the watch safe.

How does it wear?

You’ll recall that earlier in this review, I mentioned that the SBGK017 belongs to the Thin Dress Series of the Evolution 9 concept. This collection launched back in 2019 with an intentional and purposeful design language – to wear at every opportunity. So, it’s not like these dress watches should be reserved for the finest of occasions. Moreover, the watch makes every occasion feel the finest.

As I also mentioned, the 39mm case is compact, which lends itself well to smaller-wristed males, as does the tapering bezel. The domed dial and curving minute hand, not to mention the concave underside of the case, all make for a comfortable and ergonomic fit on the wrist.

Price and Availability

If you love the impeccable finishing on a Grand Seiko watch as much as I do, you’ll agree that watches like this are every bit worth their price tag. You’ll struggle to find a similar case finishing for this price category elsewhere on the market. 

The watch has a richness and a depth to it that feels high-end, but when you compare it with some more expensive mechanical options out there, the level of finishing is much more superior. The Grand Seiko SBGK017 is priced at $8,900, which, if you ask me, is hard to argue with.

Conclusion 

The Grand Seiko SBGK017 is a well-executed and truly great design, especially if you’re looking for a brand that will give you that high-end feel but without the five-figure price tag.

The refined movement, with components made from anti-shock and anti-magnetic alloys, is resistant to magnetic damage and able to deliver incredible accuracy inside slim proportions. The Zaratsu polishing and brushing techniques are a nice blend. 

They add depth to the design, not to mention a high-end feel. The classic black dial is sure to pair well with all attire, and the case itself is geared towards those who struggle with larger watches sitting within the 41mm+ category.

On the whole, this is another stellar example of Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection DNA. Ideal for wearing as a sophisticated companion with evening attire, you also have the chance to change the metal band over to something more casual from Grand Seiko’s strap range or, indeed, the additional black alligator leather strap it comes with.