Grand Seiko SBGH347 Review

I think most of us watch collectors and timepiece enthusiasts have something that instantly attracts us to a watch. For some, it’s an obsession with a particular complication, or for others, it can be a particular genre of watch, such as a diver’s or pilot’s. For me, though, it’s a dial color. In particular, a dial done in a particular shade of light blue. Very much like the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch I’ve got the pleasure of reviewing today. 

I don’t know what it is, but there’s something so beautiful about this shade of blue. It’s different from the classic navy we’ve seen so many times before, and yet it’s still not so loud and expressive that it feels unwearable or overwhelming. 

It’s not a typical turquoise blue often associated with the sea or sky either, but more of an icy hue giving off an undeniable elegance and tranquility. 

It’s also not just a smooth ice blue dial, but one with a special texture, one that Grand Seiko describes as being inspired by the natural ‘icefall’ phenomenon seen when the springs near Mount Iwate freeze over in winter’s cold air.

Inspired By Grand Seiko’s First 9S Mechanical Watch

Grand Seiko has no shortage of milestones in their long history, but one of their most significant is arguably the launch of their first 9S mechanical watch in 1998. The Caliber 9S series was another breakthrough in the brand’s long journey to create the world’s most precise and reliable watch. 

It was designed and manufactured completely in-house by the Japanese watchmaker and ultimately led to the creation of a new standard of accuracy for the Grand Seiko brand. It was durable and precise, with an average daily discrepancy of +5 to -3 seconds, a rating greater than even chronometer-certified timepieces. 

The first Caliber 9S watch was housed in a 37mm case, a design that was a departure from the brand’s earlier designs, emphasizing more of a modern aesthetic yet still maintaining the classic elegance that Grand Seiko is known for. 

Last year, to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the 9S caliber, Grand Seiko released limited editions, the SBGH311 and SBGR325, both echoing the dimensions of the original model. These timepieces honored the pioneering spirit of the brand’s head of design, Nobuhiro Kosugi, who played a crucial role in the 1998 creation. 

Sadly, though, these two watches were limited editions and were not easy to get your hands on. But thankfully, the new Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch brings everything back and more. It has the same faithful 37mm wide case, a 9S Hi-Beat movement, and, of course, one of the most exquisite ice blue dials I have ever seen. 

The First 37mm Ever-Brilliant Case

So, as I mentioned, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch comes in the same 37mm case as the original Caliber 9S watch. But what’s even cooler is that this is the first 37mm case from Grand Seiko that is made from their famous Ever-Brilliant steel. 

This is a stainless steel alloy that’s 1.7 times more corrosion-resistant than the usual 316L stainless steel most watches use. That basically means it’s a lot more durable and also has a wonderful bright white sheen that adds to the watch’s dressy appearance. 

As for its elegant silhouette, the Grand Seiko SBGH347 looks little to no different to the original timepiece launched 25 years ago. If that doesn’t speak volumes about the enduring quality and appeal of a design like this, I don’t know what does. 

It’s a nice reminder that sometimes, case designs don’t need constant updating. They’re timeless and just as beautiful now as they were back then. I agree and can quite confidently say that the case here is spectacular. 

For starters, most of the case is Zaratsu polished, a technique done entirely by hand. Talented artisans are trained for up to three years to hold the precious metal against a spinning tinplate to get the perfect curve and mirror-like shine. 

The Zaratsu polishing works perfectly with the case’s sharp angles, contrasting nicely with the few brushed surfaces found on the lug tops and bracelet links. 

The dimensions of the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch are also wonderful and will no doubt attract men and women of all wrist sizes. It has a compact 37mm diameter and a lug-to-lug measurement of 44.6mm. 

It sits extremely comfortably on the wrist and yet doesn’t feel invisible, as is often the case with super slim dress watches. It has some heft yet is still easily worn under a shirt cuff with a height of 13.3mm. It’s not overwhelming, but you can definitely feel its presence. 

Other features of the watch include dual-curved sapphire crystal on top, which adds to its 1990s-inspired look and, of course, provides us with a healthy amount of scratch resistance. The glass is also treated to a layer of anti-reflective coating on the inner surface for exceptional legibility. The case back also boasts a piece of sapphire crystal surrounded by a beautiful beaded edging, adding a touch more flair and allowing for a view of the Caliber 9S inside. 

Finally, we can’t overlook the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch’s 100-meter water resistance. You’ll not often find a watch with a compact size like this, a full metal bracelet, and a beautiful formal occasion-worthy dial with a water resistance that is this high. 

No, it won’t survive deep sea diving, but it’ll happily withstand a shallow swim or heavy rainfall. Its water resistance is assisted by the screwed case back and screw-in crown positioned at 3 o’clock, beautifully knurled and decorated with the GS logo in relief.

An Icy Blue Dial

Grand Seiko is no stranger to creating beautiful, intricate dials and surprise, surprise, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch delivers yet another breathtaking one. At first glance, the dial texture appears to be a clever blend between a traditional vertically brushed finish and Grand Seiko’s famous “Birch” dial. 

The latter is inspired by the delicate patterns of birch trees, characterized by deep, zig-zagging grooves. In contrast, the SBGH347’s texture features thinner, straighter lines that create a more understated and refined appearance, one that cleverly mimics the serene elegance of winter landscapes. 

In the press release, Grand Seiko poetically describes the inspiration behind the dial coming from the natural beauty found in Hachimantai in the Iwate Prefecture, where Nanataki—a majestic 30-meter waterfall—originates from the streams cascading down Mt. Iwate. According to Grand Seiko, the dial represents this frozen waterfall, evoking the massive icicles formed during the coldest months of the year. 

Sadly, I can’t say I’ve ever visited this particular waterfall to advise whether the dial does it justice or not, but I’m inclined to just nod and agree with Grand Seiko. It’s a dial that looks and feels like winter on the wrist. 

As I mentioned in the introduction, the ice blue shade of the dial is a personal favorite of mine. It’s captivating, striking a balance between cool and refreshing, dreamy and stylish. It’s a color that would work just as well for casual occasions as well as formal ones, inviting a strange sense of calm and an element of serenity. 

As for the rest of the dial, it’s quintessential Grand Seiko. The markers and hands are expertly finished, featuring polished top surfaces that sparkle under the light. The large diamond-cut bevels add an extra layer of sophistication, creating a visual feast that is both captivating and functional. 

The markers are faceted, and the hands are sharp, sitting beside the familiar applied Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock. There’s also a framed date window at 3 o’clock, which is a handy touch that adds functionality without over-cluttering the display.

A Hi-Beat Movement

Since the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch is a timepiece honoring the original 9S Caliber watch, it would be wrong for it not to be powered by one of the brand’s modern-day 9S calibers. 

Inside is the in-house Caliber 9S85, a high-frequency mechanical movement operating at 5Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour. This means that the movement achieves an impressive accuracy rating of +5 to -3 seconds per day, a standard that exemplifies Grand Seiko’s commitment to precision and reliability. 

The movement boasts a noteworthy 55-hour power reserve, ensuring the watch remains ticking even if it’s taken off the wrist for a couple of days. 

There’s also a total of 37 jewels and plenty of handsome decoration applied to the movement’s architecture, which, as mentioned, is put on display through the watch’s exhibition case back. The finishing details include polished surfaces, gilded lettering, and a wonderfully striped rotor.

 A Full Metal Bracelet

The Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch comes equipped with a standard three-row link stainless steel bracelet. Again, it uses Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant steel alloy for a beautiful shine and high levels of durability. 

We’re also promised a combination of finishing to match the case, including brushed link tops and polished sides. This contrast adds a touch more depth and visual interest, but one that is outshined – and rightly so – by the dial. 

The bracelet leads to a folding clasp with a push-button release. Sadly, there is still no micro-adjustment on these GS bracelets – something many of us Grand Seiko collectors are still holding out for. That said, there are some half links for close adjustment, and the links are held by screws, so you can make changes relatively easily. 

The Ever-Brilliant Steel bracelet also comes with a 19mm lug width, which, while slightly awkward for finding alternative straps in this size, is manageable thanks to the drilled lugs. This means that once you find a compatible strap, you’ll be able to install your new watch band easily in your own time. 

On-Wrist Experience 

As you can probably tell from my words so far, wearing the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch these past few days has been a delightful experience. It’s an absolutely beautiful watch with a breathtaking dial that deserves to be seen in person and a nice, unisex case that will suit almost anyone. 

With a case diameter of 37mm, a length of 44.6mm, and a thickness of 13.3mm, this watch is ideally sized for a wide range of wrist sizes. It strikes a beautiful balance in width, making it suitable for nearly anyone. I have a five-and-a-half-inch wrist, and since I generally gravitate toward oversized watches, I find this timepiece to be a standout. 

The SBGH347 makes a statement without feeling overly bulky or cumbersome. I believe it would look best on wrists ranging from 6 to 7.5 inches; any larger, and it might start to appear a bit small. However, don’t let that discourage you. Smaller watches definitely have their place, and if you appreciate a subtle vintage aesthetic, this watch delivers that, too. 

While the 13.3mm thickness is a tad more than I would prefer, it’s still manageable. I would have loved for it to be a couple of millimeters slimmer, but it remains thin enough to comfortably slide under a shirt cuff for more formal occasions. Overall, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 wears beautifully, making it a versatile choice for both everyday wear and special events.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch is a little pricier than those launched last year for the Caliber 9S’s 25th anniversary, retailing for $6,900, but keep in mind that this novelty does come with the company’s Ever-Brilliant Steel case, a huge upgrade from the standard 316L steel used previously. Plus, when you take into account the detailing on the dial and the hi-beat in-house movement working hard inside, it’s hard to argue on the retail price.

It’s also a non-limited edition and is currently available worldwide as of September 2024. I have no doubt, though, that due to its beautiful dial and accessible sizing, this will be a popular model, so it’s still worth catching it in stock when you can! 

Just be sure to stick to authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces so you can guarantee you’re getting a genuine timepiece with all the official paperwork.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch is a superb watch that embodies everything this Japanese watchmaker stands for. 

It’s a remarkable entry-level watch in the brand’s Hi-Beat line-up, and as the first mid-size watch presented in the striking Ever-Brilliant Steel at this size, I have no doubt it’ll stand out in a market saturated with 40 to 42mm timepieces. 

Sure, the case wouldn’t hurt by being the smallest bit thinner, but the elevated finish on the case and dial quickly makes up for that. And alas, it seems my obsession with icy blue dials remains, and I have yet another Grand Seiko watch added to my long, never-ending wishlist.