Grand Seiko SBGC205 Review

I have had the privilege of being a luxury watch collector and enthusiast for over a decade, like myself, any astute collector with a mature amount of knowledge in haute horology can appreciate the significance Grand Seiko has as a profound watchmaker that at some point in our watch journey, “blew our minds”. 

Seiko is the founder of quartz technology, which brought precision timekeeping to the masses. Shortly after, it became the largest watchmaker in the world. Grand Seiko was created as a benchmark for its most brilliant minds to relentlessly create the best timepieces.

The SBGC205 is a revolutionary sports chronograph from Grand Seiko. It is an intriguing option in the realm of haute horology chronographs, a seemingly unassuming timepiece, yet, a behemoth in its display of industry-leading technology that is equally balanced with wrist charm.

In its pursuit of precision, reliability, and accuracy, this timepiece harmonizes its tribute to fine mechanical watchmaking and modern-day technology through its Spring Drive Movement. 

To be discovered by its wearer is a quintessentially Japanese luxury timepiece design, fashioned in a lightweight material with supreme finishing and housing an extremely high-tech movement offering many impressive features such as a chronograph, GMT, power reserve indicator, date complication, and automatic winding.

History

In 2004 Grand Seiko finally realized a dream and a feat of 27 years with the launch of its first Spring Drive Caliber, the 9R65 in the 9R6 series. The concept of Spring Drive was to combine a traditional mainspring with an electronic regulator. The final result would deliver an accuracy of 1 second a day, equal to that of electronic watches, on which its target was initially set. 

It also managed a power reserve of 72 hours, an equally astonishing feat. The first Grand Seiko Chronograph, Spring Drive Chronograph, and most accurate luxury chronograph would launch shortly after in 2007 in the 9R8 Series, the family belonging to the SBGC205, powered by the Caliber 9R86.

The SBGC205 from the Sport Collection is a second-generation model from 2017 featuring Grand Seiko Branding, updated upon the similar SBGC005 launched in 2007 that featured Seiko/Grand Seiko dual branding from when the Grand Seiko line was under the Seiko umbrella and not its own brand.

Case

At a glance, the case of the SBGC205 appeals to its Sports Collection/Chronograph nameplate. Featuring a large and legible 43.5mm case that is 16.4mm thick, sporty lines, bold pushers, and mostly hairline finishings.

Familiar to the watchmaker, it is fashioned completely in High-intensity titanium, the perfect metal for a sports chronograph of its kind due to its high strength-to-weight ratio, lightweight wearing experience, and darker rugged sheen that plays well with the sports aesthetic of the timepiece. Additionally, this metal is hypoallergenic for wearers with sensitive skin.

Grand Seiko timepieces are reputed for their exquisite Zaratsu hand finishings. Zaratsu is different to conventional polishing as it uses a metal disk with an abrasive sheet that grinds the metal surface to create ultra-flat surfaces on multiple planes brought to a sharp point, which is how sharp angles are created on Grand Seiko cases; this is done by hand. 

The hairline finish called Sujime, featured mostly on the SBGC205, gives it a sporty look and scratch resistant qualities, it is also done by hand above already Zaratsu mirror finished surfaces.

Viewed in detail, the sporty case lines of the SBGC205 features sloping flanks defined by a continuous thick mirror finished chamfer that merges into hairline finished wide tapering and sloping lugs. 

Its bezel is sloped and mirror finished, complimenting an open view to its dial through a Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface for enhanced legibility. The many facets and finishings of this timepiece balance its visual mass exquisitely well.

What doesn’t go unnoticed, giving it a bold design, are its large 1964 Tokyo Olympics Stopwatch inspired screw-in two stage construction chronograph pushers that allow for 100m of water resistance and have been made with large barrels with generous fluting for ease of use. They also feature mirror polish and match the winding/time setting crown of the watch. 

The case-back of this timepiece is cupped in shape and measures about 3mm, it holds in place a flat transparent sapphire crystal that allows for easy viewing of its delicious 9R86 Caliber.

Dial

There is a lot to be discovered in the feature rich and high finish dial of the SBGC205. What it displays is two time zones, a 12 hour chronograph, a date, and its power reserve of 72 hours. 

It takes on a handsome gilt configuration, with a glossy black dial and mostly contrasting golden indications. Its rehaut has white traces and minute indications in 5 minute intervals, along this periphery are also 24 hour indications in white. Adhering to the Grand Seiko style many facets feature on this dial so that it may sparkle with quality, these are seen on its gold plated minute/hour hands and indices that are satin finished and polished on their bevels. 

Other gold plated polished surfaces are its off centered Grand Seiko logo at 11 o’clock, and its date aperture at 3 o’clock that houses a monotone black date disk that matches the dial perfectly.

The main function of the SBGC205, a 12 hour chronograph, is read through three registers. For seconds, a counterweighted lancet style silver hand rotates from its center for easy readability. The minutes and hours are sub-dials with white markings and silver hands that are stacked vertically around the date window on the right side of the watch, with minutes placed at 1.30 o‘clock measuring up to 30 minutes, and hours placed at 4.30 o’clock measuring up to 12 hours. 

For symmetry, the left side of the dial is balanced with a small-seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock for the running seconds with white indications and a gold hand instead of silver. Similarly, for its power reserve, a gold hand that rotates along a 90 degree axis with white indications can be seen at 7 o’clock. 

Finally, for viewing of additional time zones, a GMT hand with an arrow indication in silver attached to a black stem that camouflages itself with the dial can be seen rotating along its dial from its center.

Movement

The Spring Drive technology that powers the SBGC205 is completely unique to Grand Seiko and cannot be replicated by any other watchmaker in the industry. This feat has been achieved due to Grand Seiko’s vertically integrated manufacture; which means everything is made in house, and due to the watchmaker’s vast expertise in mechanical techniques and industry leading quartz technology developed for its own watches.

The Spring Drive 9R86 Caliber seen in the SBGC205 is the most precise spring driven chronograph in the world. Delivering a precision of plus or minus 1 second a day, and measures elapsed time up to 12 hours through its chronograph with the same accuracy. It is automatic winding and has an impressive 72-hour power reserve.

The movement is equipped with high mechanical watchmaking technology, with its vertical clutch and column wheel configuration ensuring precise operation. Its glide motion hand powered by an electronic regulator stops instantly as its pusher is pressed, allowing it to measure time exactly and accurately. 

This accuracy is helped by its unique two stage chronograph pushers allowing for instant action, it has also been designed with comfort in mind and produces a satisfying click with the right amount of resistance. 

Additional features include a power reserve indicator, a date complication, and a GMT function that allows its wearer to measure an additional time zone.

The 9R86 is a complex Caliber with over 400 parts and 50 jewels. It is assembled in the hands of a small number of Grand Seiko artisans within its Shinshu Watch Studio in the Nagano Prefecture of Japan. 

Its finishing is superb with Grand Seiko’s distinct striping, called line graduation stripes. The column wheel as well as gold-colored chronograph minutes and hour wheels are visible, allowing for the chronograph mechanism to be viewed while in action. For the spring drive enthusiast, the Glide Wheel can also be seen in motion.

Straps

The titanium cased SBGC205 comes equipped only with a suitable titanium bracelet. Just like its case, it is hand finished and therefore treated to the watchmakers Zaratsu finishings. It is a five-link bracelet that has hairline finishings as well as mirror finishings. The hairline finishings occupy most of its surface area, suitably so for a rugged sports watch of its kind. 

The mirror finishings feature on the two smaller links surrounding the center links as well as on the edges on the outer links in the form of bevels, this is done to elegantly tidy up the ruggedness and visual heft of a mostly hairline finished bracelet that offers the practicality of less scratches through wear.

The bracelet lug width measures 21 millimeters and tapers toward a three-fold clasp with a twin trigger release. The clasp features a golden Grand Seiko logo to match the gilt aesthetic of the timepiece. At 21 millimeters, aftermarket straps cannot easily be found for this timepiece, however, there are some strap makers who cater to this sizing. 

Ergonomically, the light-weight construction of the bracelet, rounded links, and large channels visible from the underside in between the links allow for a comfortable and breathable on-wrist experience. Visually, the sporty and faceted bracelet design pairs perfectly with the case of the watch.

On-Wrist Experience

The SBGC205 is a compelling timepiece that ticks all the boxes for what is expected of a luxury sports watch. A 43.5mm case with 16.4mm of thickness cannot go unnoticed, however, for the incredibly vast feature-set that it offers the wearer and for the sake of legibility, this timepiece is a great performer. Additionally as a sports timepiece, the execution of a lightweight metal such as titanium with a comfortable bracelet make this watch easy to wear for its size.

Its cupped case-back with a thickness of 3mm and its sloped case and bezel allow it to fit slimmer on the wrist, therefore capable of sliding under a cuff. It can be argued that a reasonable lug-to-lug of 51.2cm allows this watch to be worn on wrists as small as even 14cmm, but would suit a larger one perfectly.

Its pushers have a “ready, set, go” feature allowing it to function like a camera shutter, where the user can depress halfway for the start of an event and press down for a defined click when an event begins, a satisfying timing experience for its wearer. This can make the SBGC205 the perfect companion for timing any sports event, ideally belonging to the racetrack paddock thanks to its luxury racing aesthetic. 

As a luxury sports watch, versatility is key to its design language, therefore, it is an easy companion to formal wear for the office or even casual wear for a night out with your friends.

Price & Availability

The SBGC205 has been recently discontinued and replaced with steel only variants, therefore, it is recommended to be sourced and purchased from an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko timepieces like Exquisite Timepieces, that can provide the timepiece in a reliable condition, with an after sales warranty, and also offer worldwide shipping. 

Exquisite Timepieces had this in stock when it was new for a retail price of $9,800, it has also been listed as “used” in the past for as low as $5,500. A brand new piece might be hard to come by, but should cost you approximately $7,000. 

Conclusion

I own a Panda Daytona, a luxury chronograph timepiece that is loved by a vast majority of collectors and considered to be the benchmark in luxury chronographs. In comparison, I believe the SBGC205 breaks out of the conventional mold of what is typically expected of a luxury chronograph watch, with its own Japanese philosophy of design and features. 

The SBGC205 lives up to the hype surrounding Grand Seiko watchmaking, executing on all points of reference. It is a fabulously finished timepiece, with a number of impressive complications, delivered in a wearable, versatile, and well designed package. It is a timepiece that redefines the accuracy of all other chronographs, and one that defines the high rated legacy of luxury Japanese watchmaking for decades on in a timeless fashion.