Grand Seiko SBGK007 Review: A True Modern Classic

A stylish addition to Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection, and rightfully so, the SBGK007 blends modern formality and classic timelessness. With a quick look, it’s pretty apparent that the watch is more than ideal in formalities.

The SBGK007 may have been launched several years ago, back in 2019, but it still holds up as an excellent choice. Of course, this is for many reasons, from design choices to internal components and how it wears. Grand Seiko is known to get creative with their designs, but there’s nothing wrong with sticking to the basics.

For those looking for something a little more retro from Grand Seiko, I feel the SBGK007 definitely hits the mark. To discern this for yourself, this review will break past the surface details of the watch to provide a more comprehensive picture.

When Did the SBGK007 Launch?

Released in 2019, the SBGK007 is a clear attempt at a retro-looking watch that exudes luxury both visually and to the touch. You can find it in Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection, and you can find two dial-variants of this watch: the SBGK009 and SBGK005.

While all three watches look stellar, the SBGK007 delivers the most universal wearability. I don’t look at the watch as a historical piece per se, but up close, it’s a sight to behold. It’s important to note that it isn’t a reissue, but it’s evident that the design choices are a call-back to a classic look.

As enough time passes, I’m confident this watch will become a historical staple for Grand Seiko. Everyone can benefit from a clean-cut, retro luxury watch, and the SBGK007 does a great job of blending the old with the new.

The SBGK007 Case From Every Angle

To give you an idea of how the case might look and feel on your wrist, it can be helpful to look at the varying dimensions. Featuring a 39mm diameter and 11.6mm thickness, the watch dons a subdued design with minimal wrist presence.

It isn’t necessarily meant to be a flashy timepiece but rather blend in with the professional tone of your outfit and the occasion. The Elegance Collection is perfect for this watch, as it truly embodies the nature of simplistic luxury.

The slim design on top of a 44mm lug-to-lug length offers a proportional design that blends well with the curvature of your wrist. Most Grand Seiko watches in my collection stand out, whether due to size, dial color, or accents. However, I immediately craved something different when I saw the SBGK007.

You’ll find the case is crafted with a mostly polished surface, with minor satinized accents for a bit of contrast at the right angles. A sloped case design gives the scale of the watch a sleeker look and adds to the overall comfort. Taking inspiration from King Seiko models, the case is reminiscent of the 1969 Grand Seiko style.

The case itself is made of stainless steel, but the components are slim enough that you won’t have to worry about excessive weight. Of course, you get the benefit of dual-curved sapphire crystal, offering the clarity and durability you need. As an added note, the crystal comes with an anti-reflective coating on the inside, which is essential, in my opinion.

I’m a huge fan of open case backs, which is a pleasant surprise with the SBGK007, and it’s built with a screw-down design. Better yet, this reveals the inner workings of the 9S63 movement on the inside.

If you take a close look, you’ll discover a subtle cutout for the push-and-pull crown. This is a call back to the 1969 King Seiko and includes the classic GS initials. I’m impressed with the watch’s low-profile bezel, as it helps boost its flatter design. You won’t find a bezel insert, but the simple yet highly polished design of the bezel gives the dial more room to shine.

Classic Dials Never Miss

A face card that’ll always impress, the dial of the SBGK007 is serene, to say the least. Delivering a relatively muted silver colorway, it shines just enough to catch your eye but never distracts from the time. Balance is a key factor for me in luxury watchmaking, something that isn’t very easy to achieve.

However, when it comes to Grand Seiko, it’s clear this is a focal point in everything they do. Some find the dial to be too simple for their liking, but the contrast of the strap color helps the dial really stand out.

Due to the somewhat blank slate look of the dial, I’m able to see it take on the color hues of the surrounding light. Whether it’s an orange sunset or neon lights, these colors will subtly reflect off the dial, a small yet satisfying detail.

This also helps the hands and indices stand out without looking too hard. This is an important detail, considering this watch doesn’t have any luminescence. I find it a little unfortunate that a date window isn’t included, but I feel like I understand why they went that route.

You have a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and a seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. If they added a date window, too, the dial wouldn’t look as serene as it does. The placement choices on the dial help with its symmetry, which is a small choice I really appreciate. I’m not really a fan of subdials being at even and odd positions. Having these sub-dials at three and nine guarantees uniformity with the center of the surface.

It’s likely that you wouldn’t immediately notice this, but the dial is also built with a sloped design. Tapering off the closer it gets to the edge, I’m always amazed at how colorful the dial can be with the most subtle influence of light.

Grand Seiko put a lot of fine detail into a watch that seems pretty simple on the surface. The dial texture might not seem like much, but with the right angle, you’ll see what it really brings to the table. Boasting what’s referred to as a sunburst finish, the dial looks like it gleams in the center and begins to fade near the edges.

You’ll also enjoy the finite index markers and hands, as they come with a nice finish and don’t pull away from the surface of the dial. Classic sword-style hands count every second, and I love the fact they decided to avoid a large seconds hand. 

It really helps keep the dial more open face, which I feel is the highlight of the overall design. The minute is as classic as it gets, only providing exactly what you need to tell the time. 

Much More Than a Standard Mechanical Movement

Built with a beautiful 9S63 mechanical movement, it’s the first manual winding movement Grand Seiko has introduced in quite some time. The power reserve is 72 hours, and once I saw the 28,800 vibrations per hour, I knew the watch was going to be a satisfying wear. You can see the smooth timekeeping with each passing second, a true testament to the hand-assembled approach from Grand Seiko.

The mean daily rate is +5 to -3 seconds, and the normal accuracy for regular use is +10 to -1 seconds per day. This specific movement comes from the craftsman at the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, further cementing its unique in-house engineering and quality. 

When I first learned about this watch, it was the finer notes about its creation that kept me locked in. All it took was for me to give it a test run, and all of the documentation made complete sense.

This is especially true with the manual winding mechanism of the SBGK007, as it adds to the old-school tone of the design. Some things never go out of style, and the movement of this watch carries that entire sentiment. 

You can even see several large jewels in the open case back, as well as the finite workings that are built with micro precision. I have no issue with watches that like to tick, but I’m honestly impressed with how smoothly this movement functions. 

The seconds hand looks like a seamless glide, and watching the movement in action is a testament to the quality and consistency of this timepiece.

Sometimes, I think it’s unfortunate I can’t just admire every layer of the movement at any time. While an open case back is as good as it gets for everyday wear, I find myself appreciating it more every day.

Once again, the watch doesn’t seem like much until you take a closer look. With the SBGK007, you get a one-of-a-kind quality movement that really shows you that what is on the inside really counts.

How the SBGK007 Strap is the Perfect Compliment

You can never go wrong with a solid black strap. The SBGK007 finds contrast and balance in its high-quality alligator strap. Not only does this promise durability, but I find myself surprised at how soft the inside layer feels on the wrist. Even if it feels obviously durable on the outside, you won’t feel any friction on the skin.

One small downside here is that it’s built with a 19mm lug width, a sizing that’s known to make finding replacement straps a bit difficult. Swapping it out is not impossible, but the strap delivers a quality that makes me want to leave everything as it was meant to be.

The strap quality is meant for long-term, consistent use. You don’t need to have a suit on every day to warrant this watch. I’m using it as a daily wear myself, and the durability of the strap hasn’t wavered in the slightest.

You’ll also appreciate the slight grooves and serene finish on the strap, as it beautifully compliments the Zaratsu-polished areas across the case. Grand Seiko doesn’t include any additional straps with this watch, as its original design will hold up in quality and style for generations to come.

What It’s Like to Wear the SBGK007

I’ve had skinnier wrists my entire life, which definitely comes with some challenges in the timepiece category. That’s partly what makes me so excited about the SBGK007, is that it wears very well for 6-inch wrists. I’m only slightly over that mark, and I find it to be a snug yet comfortable fit.

Of course, on the other end of that spectrum, people with larger wrists might have a harder time with this watch. Nevertheless, the overall thinness of the watch, specifically the case, makes for a hidden gem on the wrist. It’s beautiful to the naked eye and can easily blend in with a vast range of outfits.

Whether you’re out boating, at the office, or on a date, this watch comes with a very universal use case. I like a little color here and there, but the muted look of this watch has become a common part of my weekly rotations.

Aside from the many selling points in the design of the SBGK007, the cost is bound to sway your decision-making. Thankfully, I, among many others, find this watch to come at an understandable cost. I feel Grand Seiko has found a mid-range for entry-level enthusiasts and luxury that’s worth the asking price.

Cost and Availability

With a search online, you can find the Grand Seiko SBGK007 retailed at $6,900. This is a bit high for me, but I can see why many others wouldn’t even give the cost of this watch a second thought. Understandably steep for some individuals, this is actually quite respectable considering how expensive luxury watchmaking can get.

However, a preowned SBGK007 is much more affordable, commonly found between the $3,700 and $4,500 range. Many used luxury watches look brand new if properly taken care of. Everyone likes a brand-new watch, but it’s not a necessity in the world of high-quality timekeepers.

As far as availability goes, the watch isn’t hard to find, but you should choose a retailer that understands Grand Seiko to its core. This is rarer than you might think, as many sellers are just trying to make a quick buck.

If you want an educational buyer’s experience accompanied by a historical understanding of GS and its craftsmanship, consider working with Exquisite Timepieces. This ensures you have the support you need in your decision-making process and answers to every question that crosses your mind.

At Exquisite Timepieces, you can easily access the Grand Seiko SBGK007 without having to worry about authenticity, quality, or customer service. 

The Bottom Line

Grand Seiko may not be new to the luxury watch market, but they often impress newcomers and veterans alike. Between the unique movement and smart, stylish design choices, the SBGK007 is a personal favorite from the Elegance Collection.

What makes this watch an outstanding choice is that its styling will never stop being relevant. This same sentiment can be shared with the quality of Grand Seiko engineering, which continues to stand the test of time and push innovation.