Grand Seiko SBGR325 Review – An Ode to the Caliber 9S

Grand Seiko, the pride of Japan, is often heralded as horologically innovative—in part due to their incredible Spring Drive movements—and, of course, for their utter dedication to putting out timepieces with finishing that surpasses watches costing two to three times as much. 

The SBGR325 is not powered by Spring Drive; it actually has a mechanical movement! And let’s just get this out of the way: the dial is incredible, the finishing is incredible, the watch IS incredible. I have lusted over a Grand Seiko for some time, and in considering which piece might be best, the SBGR325 quickly rose to the top of my list.

History

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 is part of its esteemed Heritage Collection, paying homage to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS, a watch that established modern, angular, and masculine Grand Seiko styling. In 2023, Grand Seiko marked the 25th anniversary of its game-changing caliber 9S with special edition watches from the Heritage collection. These models feature dials that take inspiration from the shifting skies over Mount Iwate. 

Paying tribute to the first-ever GS watch that sported the in-house 9S mechanical movement, designed by Nobuhiro Kosugi back in 1998, the Grand Seiko SBGR325 comes in the same sleek case design with a compact 37mm diameter. Oh, and they’re super exclusive—only 1,200 pieces will be made!

Case 

“I like them a lot—they are just too big for me.” I’m sure many who work at a Grand Seiko boutique have heard these words before. I am sure many of you who are familiar with the watch enthusiast community have either heard or said a similar phrase, too. But things are quickly changing over at Grand Seiko and throughout the watch industry. 

Maisons are listening, whether it be through social media, the algorithm, or just word of mouth. Alterations to models are happening at a faster pace than ever before, and if you think about it, it makes perfect sense. They want to build what the people want, and in doing so, they’ll sell more watches. Sound logic.

The SBGR325 features a 37mm case diameter and a thickness of 13.3mm. Don’t raise a brow at the watch’s 13.3mm thickness; this is in part due to the beautiful domed sapphire crystal. On my 6.5-inch wrist, this watch felt amazing. 

I’d been looking at the SBGA415, which is also part of Grand Seiko’s Heritage collection but with a slightly larger case diameter of 40mm. I know 3mm is a small number, but I really did feel a night-and-day difference in trying on both watches at the same boutique. It just fits me better, plain and simple. If you have small to medium-sized wrists, this watch is the Grand Seiko for you. 

The finishing on the case alternates between Zaratsu polished and brushed surfaces, and the conical bezel is fully polished. See-through caseback gives a glimpse into the beautiful 9S65 movement with a custom titanium blue rotor. Finally, a fluted crown makes for easy winding and time adjustment. All in all, this is a beautiful package!

Dial 

True artistry is inspired, and Grand Seiko has never kept a secret about where it draws inspiration: from the beautiful nature surrounding its two studios—one in Iwate, the other in Shinshu. The SBGR325 takes inspiration from the shifting skies over Mount Iwate. This offers a breathtaking sky-blue, some might even call it an on-trend Tiffany blue that you have to see in person to fully appreciate. The rendered images and even the high-quality photography fail to do this timepiece justice! 

The applied GS logo in gold offers a wonderful contrast, and the heat-treated second hand gracefully floats around the dial. Some watch aficionados decry Grand Seiko’s insistence on destroying dial symmetry with power reserve indicators (which I actually love, but that’s neither here nor there), and they will be happy to see that such an indicator has not been included on this watch. They may, however, scoff at the date window, which is not color-matched, nor does it do anything to help the symmetry of the watch.

Movement 

The 9S65 in-house automatic movement is beautiful to look at with its high-level detailed finishing. Where it truly shines, though, is in its power reserve, boasting a whopping 80 hours (up from the 55 hours of the previous generation 9S). While this might not seem that high, it’s impressive, considering it’s a Hi-Beat movement that runs at 36,000 vph and has excellent tolerances (+5/-3 seconds per day). 

The new 9S65 caliber features a very energy-efficient escapement and a new free-sprung balance specially designed for this movement. This new design allows for higher accuracy over longer periods of time while offering superior shock and friction resistance. Additionally, Grand Seiko kept it very thin, making it 15% slimmer than other 9S Hi-Beat calibers. 

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 has an exhibition sapphire case back, allowing you to enjoy observing the beautifully finished 9SA5 caliber. When I first held the watch in hand, I was mesmerized by the finishing—and also by the movement of the second hand, which seemed to effortlessly glide around the dial, almost as smoothly as a spring drive.

Straps 

We’ve all heard how Grand Seiko bracelets are a step behind the competition. The rumor mill hints at a possible micro-adjustment clasp being released in the future, but as of now, you get a standard butterfly clasp without fine-adjustment. The SBGR325 bracelet is a standard, stainless steel Grand Seiko bracelet, which means it is “good enough.” 

Some argue, and rightfully so, that where Grand Seiko excels in finishing, movement technology, and dial, they fall short on their bracelets. The SBGR325 felt “good enough” on my wrist, and that’s not to say that it is a bad bracelet, but I think I would probably prefer this on a blue, gray, or even a brown leather strap. 

The 20mm lug width offers the wearer ease in finding alternative straps, and the inclusion of drilled lugs facilitates easier strap changes. So the bracelet is not the SBGR325’s strongest feature, but it functions well enough for a luxury wristwatch.

On-Wrist Experience 

Sublime. If I could just write one word for the on-wrist experience of the SBGR325 and leave it at that, the word would be sublime. Yes, watches are trending a bit smaller these days, but I’ve always been perfectly happy with the prospect of a 40mm Grand Seiko. But then I tried on this 37mm watch, and I fell in love. 

I wasn’t constantly rearranging the watch, and I wasn’t aware that it was even on my wrist. And then I’d look down, and there it was, its distinct dial reminding me that the sky’s the limit, that artistry, and craftsmanship are something to be celebrated and passed down from generation to generation, that good things do come in small packages. 

The SBGR325 offers classic wristwatch dimensions with a playful and meditative splash of color. Here’s a watch that you can effortlessly wear with formal attire. It would also go with a pair of shorts and a T-shirt for grilling and chilling on a Saturday afternoon with friends. The salesman who helped me with the watch was smiling because he knew that I had found a keeper. 

He told me that customers have been raving about the on-wrist experience and that this model was an extremely popular release. Unfortunately, I kept the plastic safe in my wallet, my wife’s voice echoing in my head, “No more watches.” I don’t know how long I can go without, but the SBGR325 is now at the top of my Grand Seiko wishlist! 

Price & Availability 

The SBGR325 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $5,300. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SBGR325, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. At Exquisite Timepieces, we’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. 

As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or on various watch forums, but with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces. 

Purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion 

You’ve been meaning to scratch that Grand Seiko itch—I mean, who hasn’t? And if you are reading this article and have yet to step into a boutique, do yourself a favor. Go have your mind blown by watches that rival the finest this industry has to offer, oftentimes at a fraction of the premium. 

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: Pictures do not do these watches justice. They simply have to be felt on the wrist. Their dials beg for a closer, almost meditative inspection. And the light-play—gosh. You can’t fully appreciate the artistry that goes into Zaratsu polishing unless you’ve seen the light-play in person.

All in all, Grand Seiko continues to impress with their release of the SBGR325. Sure, their bracelet is in sore need of an upgrade, and a color-matching date wheel would have been nice, but overall this is a watch with timeless sizing, profound artistry, and state-of-the-art technology. You simply can’t go wrong.