Grand Seiko SBGE253 Review: A Multi-Functional Tool Watch

I don’t know about you, but I have a few prerequisites for a good GMT watch. At the end of the day, this is a timepiece I’m likely going to take traveling abroad or across the country, so it needs to be able to withstand the many different types of adventures I get up to during that time. I’m more of a sightseer than a beachbody, so I want something durable and robust that can withstand the hikes, city tours, and anything else I might get up to while traveling.

But for those days when I do want to chill by the pool or at the beach, it needs to be waterproof enough to resist those dips in the water. And finally, whether it’s for when I’m traveling for work or going out for a nice dinner at dusk, I want something that looks good. Not necessarily something overly dressy, but just something that looks the part, something that demands a little bit of attention without feeling overly heavy or over-the-top on my wrist. 

If I had the choice, it would be a watch like the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253. Or at least that’s my opinion after wearing it this past week…

One of Three

Making its debut in 2020, you’re probably wondering why it’s taken me this long to test out the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 properly. Truth be told, I’ve technically test-driven this watch before, but it was a slightly different reference in the same collection – just with a different dial and bezel combo. And although I loved it, I wasn’t in a rush to try on any of the other models in the line-up.

But a lot has changed in the last four years. Not only have I gained a little more financial freedom to enjoy brands like Grand Seiko, but my desire for a GMT watch has also grown. And with so many GMT models out there, it can feel a little daunting to know where to start. 

So, I decided to give the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 a shot. As mentioned, it was released in 2020 as part of the Japanese watchmaker’s Sport Collection. It joined two other references, including a green SBGE257 model and a contrasting blue SBGE255 model (the latter being the reference I tested originally).

At first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking these watches didn’t offer anything overly new for the brand. At this point in time, Grand Seiko already had several Sports GMT models in their collection, some with Spring Drive movements and others with their famous Hi-Beat caliber. 

But what these new models did do, rather subtly I should add, is apply a more scaled-down design. I’m talking about more compact cases, a new ceramic bezel, and more refined dial layouts. And ever since, they have basically become one of Japan’s most popular GMT watches with a design to rival those like the Rolex GMT-Master and the Tudor GMT.

A Compact, Sporty Case

Those of us with smaller than average wrists and a love of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology are often faced with a problem involving case sizes. More accurately, their cases are too big. However, with the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch, we are treated to one of the brand’s most compact sports GMT watches. 

Now if you have a wrist size of five inches, don’t get too excited. This is still a well-sized watch – it’s a GMT Spring Drive, after all – but it has a new set of dimensions that make it a whole lot more wearable compared to previous references in the same collection.

To put it into perspective, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT models with Spring Drive or Hi-Beat movements on offer before the SBGE253 was released were only available with hefty 44mm wide cases. That’s a big ol’ chunk of wrist real estate taken up, especially if you’re like me and you don’t have that much to begin with. 

So, with the release of watches like the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253, lovers of more compact-sized cases are getting to enjoy GS’s aggressive Sport Collection aesthetics with Spring Drive technology – finally!

As for exact dimensions, the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 measures just 40.5mm wide and with a 48.7mm lug to lug. If you count the end links of the bracelet – which annoyingly don’t articulate (but more on that later), the lug to lug is closer to 50mm. 

It’s still a relatively large watch if you have a small wrist, but it’s 40.5mm diameter makes it a whole lot more wearable than before. The beautiful curvature of the case and downward nature of the lugs help with this too.

The thickness of the watch is relatively high at 14.7mm but that’s kind of expected for a Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT. The technology going on inside here, which I’ll go into more detail about shortly, needs the space to work its magic. 

We’ve also, of course, got the additional GMT hand which alone adds a few millimeters of thickness as it stacks on top of the standard hours, minutes, and seconds. The height also includes the double-domed sapphire crystal glass on top, treated with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, for added legibility and a nice vintage touch.

Unsurprisingly, the finishing of the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is superb. The entire stainless steel surface is meticulously finished in either Zaratsu polishing or a brushed finish to create a stunning visual complexity. 

The tops of the lugs and the majority of the bracelet have a wonderful horizontal brushed finish while the case sides are treated to the brand’s in-house polishing technique, a highly intricate and demanding process that uses a specialized machine that involves holding the metal against a rotating plate. It’s an extremely precise skill that is done entirely by hand and one that results in an opulent mirror-like finish.

Sitting atop the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a ceramic bezel – a new feature for the Sport GMT model at the time of its release. The glossy black ceramic insert is expectedly decorated with white engraved 24-hour markers to be used in conjunction with the GMT complication. 

The bezel has a slight slope to its architecture which again helps to detract from the thickness of the case. We’re also presented with a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock, offering a 200m water resistance and easy ambidextrous use, and a screw-down case back decorated with the Japanese watch brand’s famous lion emblem in relief.

A Glossy Black Dial

I’m so used to reviewing Grand Seiko watches in the Elegance or Heritage collections that are intricately decorated with complex patterns and colors that a dial like the one owned by the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch seems almost impossible to comment on. Truth be told, by Grand Seiko standards, it’s a simple dial. However, it couldn’t – or shouldn’t – be any other way.  

The glossy black display pairs beautifully with the matching black ceramic bezel and becomes the perfect canvas for the mass of functions placed at the center. Sometimes, simplicity is key, especially when you have a lot of information to offer. If this dial was patterned with some of the more fanciful decorations Grand Seiko are known for, it would likely become difficult, if not entirely impossible, to read at a glance.

Although simple in its execution, that’s not to say that the dial of the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch doesn’t involve the brand’s high levels of attention to detail. For starters, the hands and hour markers are all hand-finished to perfection, diamond-polished, and faceted to create a subtle glimmer in light for enhanced legibility. The cardinal hour markers and the hours and minute hands offer further readability with the use of glow in the dark Lumibrite on their tips.

Meanwhile, the GMT hand is finished in a bright red and contrasts against the black backdrop very well. This arrow-tipped hand also features its own Lumibrite insert for added legibility. On the outskirts, the dial offers an inner bezel with another set of 24-hour numerals, but these only display odd numbers. 

It’s another ingenious way of ensuring effortless readability at a glance. There’s also a power reserve indicator between 8 and 9 o’clock and a date window at 4 o’clock. The date window cleverly replaces the hour index and features no silvered border – a design decision that helps to integrate the date complication seamlessly without it becoming overbearing or obtrusive.

A Spring Drive Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is, as its name suggests, one of GS’s infamous Spring Drive movements. The exact caliber in question is the Caliber 9R66 which was first introduced back in 2006. 

If you’re not familiar with Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology, then in short, it’s basically a mechanical movement with some quartz technology included for better levels of accuracy. It has an escapement Seiko calls a “tri-synchro” quartz regulator to ensure its precision but still utilizes the mainspring of a traditional mechanical movement. It’s basically the best of both worlds. 

One of the biggest draws of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive movement is its smooth sweeping seconds hand. I can say this without doubt: the Spring Drive has the smoothest seconds hand I’ve ever seen. It will always fascinate me and it’s something I could watch forever. For its list of specs, the Caliber 9R66 has a 72-hour power reserve, which is neatly displayed on the dial front, and an accuracy of +/-15 seconds a month.

The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is also a “true” GMT. What this means is that the hour hand for local time can be independently adjusted, unlike an “office” GMT, where the GMT hand is the only hand independently adjustable. 

In this case, the first position of the crown lets you set the hour hand while the second position adjusts both local time and GMT. This feature is especially useful for travelers who need to keep track of multiple time zones simultaneously and want the flexibility to set their local time without disrupting the watch’s ongoing timekeeping.

A Full Metal Bracelet

Completing the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a full stainless steel, three-row link bracelet. It works perfectly with the sporty, almost aggressive personality of the design and has great proportions compared to the case. I do wish it had a bit of a taper, even as little as 2mm, to reduce the sense of bulk, but it still wears incredibly well and feels comfortable and durable.

As I mentioned earlier, the bracelet has mostly brushed surfaces but there are a few Zaratsu polished elements added to the edges of the middle links to echo the finishing of the case sides. It’s wonderfully finished, as you’d expect, and a huge bonus for many is that it’s one of the few Grand Seiko bracelets to come with micro adjustment. 

It has four micro-adjust slots in total, so you’ll easily get the perfect fit. There are also screws to remove and add in links, and several half links included. If you’re less keen on the metal bracelet and would prefer something more casual like a black leather band, thankfully, the 20mm lug width and drilled lugs will make finding alternative watch straps super easy.

On-Wrist Experience

It’s no surprise that with its compact dimensions, curved lugs, easy-to-read dial and exceptional finishing the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a joy to wear. In fact, it’s one of the most comfortable GMT sports watches I’ve had the pleasure of trialing. 

I’d recommend this model to anyone with wrists between six and seven-and-a-half inches, but as always, don’t let that deter you if you have wrists smaller or larger. I have five-and-a-half inch wrists, and with a love for oversized statement watches, this still looks incredible on me. 

In the same way, if you have large wrists and you want something super compact, comfortable, and easy to throw on, you’ll equally enjoy the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch retails brand-new for $6,200. Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces, so you know you’re receiving a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. Alternatively, you might be able to find the model on second-hand markets for around $4,000 to $4,500 if you’re working with a budget. 

But keep in mind that reference SBGE253 is a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s Sport Collection, so you may prefer to save up for another few months so you can afford it brand new. It’s a non-limited edition and as far as we’re aware, it’s not going anywhere anytime soon.

Conclusion

So, to go back to my original comments in the introduction, let’s just have a quick run-down as to why I think the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 is a hard-to-beat GMT watch. 

Is it durable for those traveling adventures? Yes. Is it capable of withstanding those dips in the pool and ocean? Yes, and more with a 200-meter water resistance. And does it look good? Absolutely. It’s a beautiful watch in more ways than one, offering compact sizing for a comfortable feel, a hand-finished dial and case, and more importantly, an impressively precise Spring Drive movement that will never let you know. What more could you want in a GMT watch?