Grand Seiko SBGA489 Review: Honoring Katana Artistry on Your Wrist

From a historical standpoint, much of Grand Seiko’s inspiration in their designs comes from nature. However, when it comes to the SBGA489, they decided to take a different approach and honor the artistry and history of the katana.

It’s important to highlight that the SBGA489 is a part of the heritage collection and shares a few similarities with the SBGA491 and SBGA493. Each varies in its own unique aesthetic, highlighting minute and serene details about the Japanese katana.

Part of what made these watches stand out is that they were released as a U.S. exclusive. Today, you’re going to get an in-depth look at the Grand Seiko SBGA489. Featuring a bold dial, luxurious accents, and a design that never disappoints, you’ll want to read what this review has in store.

A Unique Timepiece in Grand Seiko History

While the SBGA489 itself doesn’t have a longstanding history on the market, it’s part of the Heritage Collection for a reason. More specifically, it’s a part of the 44GS design, featuring a recognizable 40mm case and hailed Spring Drive movement.

Nevertheless, the SBGA489 was released in August of 2023, making it a relatively new part of the Heritage Collection. It does a beautiful job of honoring the history of the Japanese Katana, and not only in the colorway alone. With the dial acting as the core of the blade and the surrounding components resembling its sharp edge, I can’t stop thinking it was an excellent design choice.

You could also say that the 44GS case design definitely comes with some Grand Seiko History. Although the SBGA489 was released just last year, the 44GS case specifically has been a pillar of the Grand Seiko name since 1967.

While it still may be relatively new to the market, I’m confident that the SBGA489 will go down as a valuable fan favorite. Between its US exclusivity and a design that stems from a very unique inspiration, I feel like it’s worth keeping an eye on. 

Classic Case Style

Most people are hyperfused about the case size, and understandably so, but that isn’t what draws me in about this design. First, I’m a huge fan of exhibition case backs, and it makes it even better that the watch carries a Spring Drive movement. You can admire the inner engineering of the SBGA489 and appreciate the sharp side profile of the case as well.

The watch features a 40mm case and a relatively flat look with a 12.5mm thickness. Although some people would disagree, I feel the 46.2mm lug-to-lug distance makes the watch accessible to a broad audience. When worn, the SBGA489 does a great job of balancing physical presence and wearability, as well as functionality.

Of course, the case plays only one part in this equation, but it should be a strong focal point for anyone. For those who are a fan of Grand Seiko traditions, you’ll appreciate the classic 44GS case design. 

One of the many reasons this watch draws so much attention is due to the beauty of the Zaratsu finish. The polish is so nice on this watch it might as well be a mirror. Even though it’s a standard in many GS watches, looking at it never gets old.

The sharp-looking edges on top of unwavering polish are a callback to the precision and craftsmanship that goes into the edge of a katana blade. Featuring a double-domed sapphire crystal, you get durability and lasting visual beauty. This was also made possible due to the anti-reflective coating on the sapphire.

This is no diver’s watch, but the case still promises a water resistance of 100m, and I’m personally a huge fan of their choice with the screw-down crown. 

More casual wearers may not care for this kind of detail, but it’s a personal preference that just sells it even more. The functionality of the crown is effortlessly smooth, and I love the amount of control it provides for precision.

I’m also glad they chose to go the classic, simplistic route with the bezel. From my standpoint, a simpler bezel helps the dial stand out more instead of serving as a distraction. It’s a stainless steel case, and although primarily polished, it does feature some brushed surfaces. 

If you like your case to have a simpler, classic look, the SBGA489 won’t disappoint. On another note, one of my biggest challenges is how the watch fits. My reality is that I have slimmer wrists, and although this watch isn’t massive, I was surprised at how it fit so well. I feel the SBGA489 hits a good middle ground for most wearers.

Dial into the Star of the Show

From the color to the design, accents, visual functionality, tradition, neutrality, and many other positive elements, it’s an extremely special dial. Almost anyone who speaks about this watch admits the dial stands out to them in a special way. One that’s bound to draw you in, and you won’t forget its subtle detail any time soon.

The dial on the SBGA489 comes in an ash-gray color, which really shows itself in direct light. I tend to prefer darker dials as I find them easier to blend with a broad range of outfits and occasions. 

Make sure to look at the dial up close, as you might miss the finer details in the texture of the dial. Featuring a stippled, granular texture, it’s a callback to the iron sand that’s used to forge the katana blade.

To be a bit more specific, the dial is inspired by kawagane, which is the hard outer edge of the katana. The indices and hands are Zaratsu-polished, and the seconds hand stands out in a striking gold colorway. 

You’ll find the same color choice in the power reserve indicator as well. A date perfectly blends in with its surroundings. I personally don’t ever notice unless I’m actually looking at it. My eyes are always drawn to the dial texture and gold accents. 

The minute and hour hands are so well polished and slim that the tips nearly disappear when passing the indices. As usual, the GS logo can be found at the top of the dial, also boasting a small gold accent of its own. 

One small detail I’m not really a fan of is the spelled-out ‘Spring Drive’ in white at the bottom. I know it isn’t an unusual placement, but I feel the text and color take away from the dial. To me, the movement of the seconds hand and other details already tell me that it’s a Spring Drive. It isn’t a deal breaker by any means, but it does break away from the beautiful ash-gray color.

You’ll never have a hard time reading the minute track, and the fine lines add to the uniformity of the indices. Some aspects of the dial are pretty classic, but certain design choices from GS made this watch one to remember for the history books.

Looking at the Movement From Both Sides

With a mainspring power source, quartz oscillator, and automatic winding, this watch is built with a Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 in-house movement. Even if you feel like the name of this movement gets thrown around a lot, there are quite a few reasons for this. 

From its hybrid engineering to the fluid automatic movement that’s entirely silent, this isn’t a standard timekeeper. I personally have nothing against the tick of a quartz movement, but the visual quality and functionality of a Spring Drive are stunning.

On a surface level, you get the benefit of automatic winding, but that doesn’t mean manual winding isn’t possible. This is accomplished through the movement’s Magic Level mechanism, a component that was developed back in 1959. Rest assured, this watch delivers a 3-day power reserve and an accuracy of ±1 second daily and ±15 seconds per month.

The movement also comes with 30 jewels, which aren’t for show but functionality, as they help to reduce friction and wear. Of course, this isn’t to say the Spring Drive isn’t beautiful, as I love staring at the case back and its inner workings.

An easy-to-read date display rests at 3 o’clock, and the overall smooth glide of a Spring Drive adds to the high-end look of the SBGA489. I understand personal preference is always important, but this movement offers something everyone can appreciate. Aside from the main focus areas, such as the case and dial, it’s equally important to consider the strap. 

A Traditional Strap Choice

At first glance, you wouldn’t be wrong to say the strap looks pretty standard. With high-quality stainless steel, a signature logo, and a simple three-fold clasp, it doesn’t sound extremely special. However, the Grand Seiko’s quality and uniformity in design still help it shine.

The majority of the strap’s surface has a brushed finish, which is actually a smart choice to contrast the case, in my opinion. Of course, the strap does come with a few polished areas, so it doesn’t look entirely mute. Honestly, this is another aspect of what made the watch stand out to me. 

I have nothing against polish, but the muted, brushed tone of the strap offers a perfect balance for the shiny case. If a watch is too shiny, then I simply won’t add it to my collection, so I’m grateful they took this direction.

Although the watch has durability and quality you can feel, it isn’t as lightweight as a titanium strap. It could be a deal breaker for some, but you’ll want to expect this watch to feel a bit on the heavier side. Nevertheless, if you get the right fit, the SBGA489 feels solid and secure around the wrist. You won’t find any micro-adjustments for this watch, so you’ll have to make adjustments using screws.

The strap is built with drilled lugs, making it easier to swap it out, but the 19mm lug width might make it a challenge to find a good replacement. I really like that there isn’t a dramatic taper from the lugs to the clasp. 

It really makes for a more uniform, synchronized feel to every angle of the watch when wearing it. For what it’s worth, you also won’t find any complimentary straps included with this watch. It’s not a huge deal for me, but it’s understandably important for some enthusiasts out there.

I’d say that if you were to try the watch yourself, you’d share many of the same sentiments as myself. Boasting a surprisingly proportional fit, the SBGA489 strap is more comfortable than it might look. Grand Seiko did a stellar job of exuding the same balance found in katana craftsmanship.

My On-Wrist Experience

I’m not going to lie to you; my first look at this watch didn’t amaze me. I have this weird tendency to pre-judge watches that seem too polished to me. Once again, nothing wrong with polish, but at a glance, the case seemed too standard and simple to me. It wasn’t until I took a closer look and understood the finer details before my eyes widened to the bigger picture.

For me, once I noticed the granular texture of the dial and its correlation to the iron sand of the katana, I was sold. Aside from the insanely minute detail, it honors the Japanese katana while highlighting the natural elements that forge it into reality. Considering Grand Seiko’s long-standing inspiration from nature, this was a fantastic touch in design.

The slim look of the case and bold dial are enough for me to add it to my collection. In the same vein, how it wears shouldn’t be overlooked. It is a bit on the heavier side for me, but since I was able to get a secure fit, the weight doesn’t shift around much on me.

Stainless steel works with all kinds of outfits, but the dark dial is what makes it work with almost anything. A suit, casual wear, you name it, this watch blends in and stands out in the best way when it catches someone’s eye. While the physical details of the watch are what draw you in, the price point is likely to be the most shocking part of this watch.

Price Point and Availability

For those of you who are in the U.S., the watch shouldn’t be too hard to find. However, this same exclusivity is what makes it such a global sensation. Due to this, you can assume many people outside of the U.S. are doing what they can to get their hands on one.

For a brand new Grand Seiko SBGA489, you can expect to pay $5,600 at retail. Considering the price scale of the luxury watch market and other Grand Seiko designs, this is a steal for me. This not only makes it a great entry-level luxury watch for some, but it is also an investment that’s beyond worth the cost. 

The value-to-cost ratio here honestly blows my mind, and once I put all of the dots together, I had to go try one for myself. If you’re looking for pre-owned, this would still land in the $3,800 to $4,500 range.

While you can find the SBGA489 at a wide range of retailers, there’s only one you can rely on to deliver quality and expertise. Exquisite Timepieces has exactly what you’re looking for and won’t leave you hanging on the details. This means you’re left with a watch to remember, with zero questions on what it has to offer inside and out.

Final Thoughts

Don’t approach this watch like I did, and judge it before you try it on. I was a little too quick to downplay the quality of the SBGA489, and my sentiment has clearly changed. While I haven’t had the chance to add it to my collection just yet, I encourage you to consider it. Aside from its beautiful design, I expect the watch will only get more popular as time passes.

The dial is clearly the star of the show here, and Grand Seikos succeeded at delivering something a little different. This specific watch was released alongside two others, but I feel the SBGA489 stands tall due to its ability to be a great daily wear. In short, my thoughts on this Grand Seiko stunner is that it’s a must-have for the collection.