Grand Seiko SLGA023 Review: A Look Beyond the Surface

With a quick look, you can easily find a range of diver’s watches from Grand Seiko. It’s easy to get swept into all the beautiful designs, but surface-level information doesn’t do them justice. It’s the details in the engineering that tend to sway my decision because the whole of a Grand Seiko watch should be appreciated inside and out.

The SLGA023 from Grand Seiko has proven to be a winning piece for many enthusiasts over the last year. Launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, the “Ushio” blue dial watch is a bold variation to the black colorway seen in 2022.

Aspects of this design may have been seen before, but many people agree that deep blue makes it a statement piece. To answer all of your questions and pique your interest, this Grand Seiko SLGA023 review has exactly what you’re looking for.

What’s the Backstory?

Released as a follow-up to the 2022 “Black Stream” SLGA015 diver’s watch from GS. The SLGA023 hails from the Evolution 9 Collection, which is known for its unique and relatively niche range of watch designs.

Keep in mind that while the SLGA023 is kind of a new kid on the block, the Evolution 9 collection comes with a legacy. Even if this watch isn’t a perfect choice for you, the collection that it stems from is reputable, to say the least. 

The collection may not strike your interest across the board, but the new addition of the SLGA023 is another outstanding addition of unique vibrance. It’s the combination of historical influence from the collection with a very unique watch face that sells it for me. 

With full respect to the collection as a whole, I still prefer Grand Seiko watches that deliver something that feels special. You get the rich history of Grand Seiko quality, including new takes on the classic diver’s favorite.

Making a Case for Luxury

You don’t have to look too far to find a suitable Grand Seiko, but case size is an important factor for most people. There are some conflicts with this case size for me personally, but I can’t deny the clever approach to its design. 

First and foremost, the case diameter is 43.8mm, which is a bit too big for me. However, they were smart about the overall design, as it looks relatively compact from most angles.

Aside from the sizable case, it can achieve a slimmer look, partially due to the small Spring Drive movement on the inside. From the side, you’re looking at 13.8mm thickness. Once again, a bit too large for my tastes, but I likely only feel this way due to the bulkier design choices on the dial.

Nevertheless, the high-intensity titanium on the case adds to its durability and makes it a lightweight material choice. You also might find it interesting that the case design takes inspiration from the 44GS case from 1967.

Design aspects common to the Evolution 9 collection include bolder crown guards, arched quarters, and Zaratsu-polished and brushed surfaces. With striking colors and contrasting reflections, the watch carries elegance without being considered flashy. 

The SLGA023 case is also 51.5mm lug to lug, comes with beveled sapphire crystal, and a sturdy screw case back. More notably, I was personally excited by the ceramic bezel insert, a small detail not commonly found in previous collections. 

You’ll also appreciate the small detail of a luminous pip and the matching titanium look. Keep in mind that the bezel insert as a whole isn’t illuminated, which is a slight miss from my perspective. Now, speaking for myself, I’m no diver, but this watch does come with the functionality you’d expect in a GS diver.

200m water resistance is ideal for those who are serious about the deep blue, and you can only imagine how it would match beautifully with the surroundings. After a little research, it’s clear that many people aren’t fans of the larger case design, but I think GS makes up for that through the smart engineering surrounding it.

A Face You Won’t Forget

Even amongst its pros and cons, the SLGA023 features a dial that everyone can fall in love with. This is the catalyst to the draw that people see in the watch, regardless of its larger case size or bolder look.

Looking at the dial from a distance isn’t enough, and I advise anyone to take a close look at a well-lit angle. Its rippled blue design makes it look like you have a slice of the ocean on your wrist. 

This is really what helps me overlook any details about the watch that may not be my favorite. I can’t get over the accuracy of the ocean-like dial, and it’s the perfect tone of blue, not too bright and not so dark you can’t see it.

Focusing on more specific details, the power reserve indicator sits at 9 o’clock and an easy-to-read date window at 3 o’clock. The contrasting tones of these areas make them pop against the deep blue background, which adds to their legibility and symmetry with the design.

One aspect that many see as a downside is the rather large indices and hands. Some feel this blocks out some of the beauty of the dial, while others simply don’t like the bulkier look. 

I’d say this is what makes it so unique from other options in the Evolution 9 collection. The same goes for the minute track; I’m a huge fan of the circular design that’s included.

I understand the modern preference for a sleeker look, but the design choice here matches the bold nature of the rest of the watch. You can rely on LumiBrite for low-light conditions, and this also extends to the bezel for a more full-fledged viewing. 

Just like anyone else, I easily get lost in the surface visual beauty of luxury timepieces. The reality is that the internal components are the glue that seals the deal for me when making a buying decision. You should always consider the watch’s beauty, but understanding what’s happening on the inside will take your perceived value of this watch to new heights.

The Movement of the SLGA023

As can be expected by Grand Seiko quality, this watch is crafted with an in-house movement. More specifically, a reliable Spring Drive Caliber 9RA5. What most people love about this movement is the ingenuity of mixing quartz and mechanical engineering.

You can’t overlook the accuracy here either, as it promises ±10 seconds monthly and ±0.5 seconds daily. In short, you won’t ever have an issue with timing precision. The beauty of this watch extends past the surface, as the Caliber 9RA5 is crafted with 38 jewels itself.

Although I’m a huge fan of the luxury watch space, I tend to keep a pretty niche selection. It’s common for me to wear the same watch for long periods of time, so it’s important they’re consistent. 

It’s part of what I stick around for in GS watches is the in-house movements. With this level of precision, balance, and consistency, the hands look like they can carve butter with how smooth the movements are.

This movement guarantees a 120-hour power reserve and is built for vibration dampening, a nice addition that active divers will appreciate. Another notable aspect of the Spring Drive movement that I prefer over others is the automation. The movement winds with support from wrist motion, making it an easy choice no matter where you’re going.

For those who are new to watchmaking, the importance of a reliable movement can’t be understated. Regarding the SLGA023, the Spring Drive movement is the powerhouse of the watch. 

It supports the seconds, minutes, and hours, as well as the power reserve indicator and date display. That’s what makes the engineering and reliability of Grand Seiko in-house movements so valuable for a lifetime.

How Does the Strap Hold Up?

With the support of a lock and push button 3-fold clasp and case-matching design, the strap is equally stunning to neighboring features. Even better, there’s a built-in, durable strap adjuster to make the watch more fitting for a diving suit.

Similarly to the surrounding material, the strap is also crafted with high-intensity titanium, providing a bold look yet lightweight feel. While there’s a time and place for obvious contrasting finishes, I’m really appreciative they stuck with a majority brushed look. It shines enough on its own, and I honestly feel taking an overly polished route would distract too much from the dial.

Although you can find comments downplaying the sizeable case, I feel Grand Seiko compensated for this in other areas. For example, the 23mm lug width offers a nice taper to add to a better-looking fit. While this might make it more challenging to source other compatible straps, at least the drilled lugs still help to make the switch pretty easy.

As many other GS wearers would agree, I’m a fan of the push-pin adjustments without having to mess with any screws. These small details in design efficiency and thinking about the end user will always have me coming back to new Grand Seiko releases.

Now, I won’t argue that wrist size is important to some degree for any watch; this one offers enough flexibility for most people. Even for those who feel leather straps are superior, I’d advise giving this watch a spin for yourself, and you’ll realize how snug it actually feels.

No pinching of the wrist and a lightweight design ensure comfortable all-day wear. Some others are bound to disagree due to individual preferences, but they definitely thought about comfort when it comes to the strap. 

Not to mention, it seamlessly blends into the case, all of which wraps around the wrist uniformly for an even feel to weight distribution. This leads me to the next section, as the daily experience matters just as much as the beauty of the watch itself.

The Satisfying On-Wrist Experience

If you were to look at my collection, you’d see that the SLGA023 stands out among the rest. Not only because of its beautiful blue dial but also because of its size. I generally go for a much sleeker look with my watches. While the SLGA023 does what it can to look more form-fitting, the case size simply can’t be ignored.

It’s definitely more of a statement piece for me. I don’t dive, so I can’t relate to that, but I love wearing this with darker outfits, as the blue blends in, and the titanium acts as a nice contrast. The watch is known to be more form-fitting on 7.5” wrists but can easily look and feel great on smaller wrists around 6.5”.

You’ll never hear a complaint from me regarding the in-house Spring Drive movements from Grand Seiko. I don’t have anything against quartz per se, and I honestly like a nice tick, but the stealthlike approach to Spring Drive is a stellar sight.

I can see why someone may not be privy to the included strap, but it fits the bill for my needs. Leather straps tend to be my preference on cooler days, but I have nothing against a nice titanium-brushed look here and there.

While I don’t have experience with the black counterpart to this watch, it’s the blue wave dial that made me take a closer look. There are many aspects of the watch design as a whole that make it easy to overlook anything that could be deemed unfavorable. As always, the look and feel of a watch is crucial, but so is the price tag.

Grand Seiko SLGA023 Pricing and Availability

You can find the Grand Seiko SLGA023 retailing at $11,600. This might be on the higher end for entry-level buyers, but that’s what the pre-owned market can help with. However, the price range for this pre-owned watch can vary a bit based on many quality details.

Right now, you should be able to find this watch pre-owned for anywhere between $6,000 to $10,000. Considering it’s still relatively new to the market, this is bound to change as time goes on. 

Nevertheless, the watch isn’t hard to come by, but buyers should always consider where they look as well. You want to work with someone who understands not only watchmaking but also the ins and outs of Grand Seikos specifically. 

Exquisite Timepieces has your back from every angle, and we carry a quality promise behind our Grand Seiko SLGA023 and every other watch in our collection.

Let’s Wrap Up This Review

Almost anyone interested in luxury watchmaking knows and appreciates the Grand Seiko name. Even if they don’t own one for themselves, they’ve likely considered it. I keep coming back to the brand for many obvious reasons, but the fair cost, on top of unparalleled design choices, never misses the mark.

With the SLGA023 divers watch, you can’t go wrong, and you would be hard-pressed to find such an elegant ocean-like dial with micro artistic detail. Although you might feel like this GS watch is on the higher end cost-wise, remember that it’s a lifelong investment that won’t disappoint for generations.