Grand Seiko SBGW305 Review

This time last year, Grand Seiko decided to end the year with a bang by launching their last watch of 2023. It was a design many people had been waiting for and was suitably named the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Winding SBGW305. 

It’s a watch you could easily fall in love with for a number of reasons. It boasted a compact set of dimensions to suit pretty much any wrist size, an in-house manual winding movement, and a wonderful heritage-inspired aesthetic that tempted all of us with a love of vintage watches. 

But why were collectors so excited for this model? To understand this, we first need to go back a couple more years to the release of another Grand Seiko watch, one found under reference SBGW235.

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305’s Predecessor

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 owes much of its popularity to its predecessor, the SBGW235, which debuted in 2021. The SBGW235 was a stunner, and if you’ve ever ogled photos of it online (like I have countless times), you’ll know exactly what I mean. 

It has this perfectly rounded, compact case that sits well on most wrists, paired with a clean, heritage-inspired dial that oozes class. It also has a manual-winding movement for a proper throwback to the golden era of watchmaking. 

But for many, myself included, the pièce de résistance of the Grand Seiko SBGW235 is the beads of rice bracelet. Grand Seiko isn’t exactly known for their metal bracelets. They’re incredible at pretty much everything except bracelets. 

But this vintage-inspired band can’t be included in this opinion. According to many who have had hands-on time with this metal band, it’s one of the best beads of rice bracelets on the market. 

So what’s the catch? Unfortunately, the Grand Seiko SBGW235 was only available in Japan. Yep, it was one of those “look but don’t touch” situations for us collectors outside of the country. I’ve heard glowing reviews from my watch friends overseas, but I’ve never actually seen it in person. 

Fast forward to December 2023, and along came the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305, which felt like the Japanese watchmaker’s attempt at throwing us international fans a bone. It’s not a one-to-one replica of the SBGW235, but the design is clearly inspired by it. 

This time, it features a crisp silver dial instead of the creamy tone of its predecessor. It also elects silver-toned hardware on the dial rather than a blued seconds hand. 

But we still have the same minimalist dial layout, the absence of a date window (thank you, Grand Seiko!), the compact dimensions, and—most importantly—the same glorious beads of rice bracelet. And unlike the SBGW235, the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 isn’t exclusive to Japan.

A Case Worthy of the 1960’s

If you like vintage-inspired design, then you’ll no doubt love the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch. The biggest draw for me, and I’m sure for many of you who have relatively small wrists (or just like vintage proportions), will be the set of dimensions.

At 37.3mm in diameter, it’s compact and wonderfully wearable, hitting that perfect sweet spot for pretty much any wrist size. The lug-to-lug is 44.3mm, and the thickness is a mere 11.7mm, making it one of the easiest Grand Seiko watches to slide under a cuff. It’s small but mighty, full of retro charm, and completely timeless.

Now, let’s talk details. The stainless steel case is a nod to the original Grand Seiko from 1960, and you can feel the heritage in every curve. It’s got a classic fixed bezel that sits flush with the case but below the domed crystal that rises above it for that retro vibe. 

The crystal in use is box-style sapphire with an anti-reflective coating on the inside, so you get a crystal-clear view without any annoying reflections. 

Another beautiful addition to the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305’s case is the Zaratsu polishing. If you’re not familiar with Zaratsu, it is Grand Seiko’s signature mirror-like polishing technique, and it’s flawless. The entire case gleams like liquid metal, reflecting light in the most mesmerizing way. 

It’s not an easy finish to achieve either, with artisans having to train for over three years before being trusted to hold the precious stainless steel against a spinning tin plate to give it its unbeatable shine. 

The crown is push-pull, which is pretty standard for a dress watch, and it offers 30 meters of water resistance. It’s definitely not a watch you’ll want to risk near open water, but let’s be real, you probably shouldn’t be shopping in the dress watch department if you’re wanting something to take in the ocean. 

The crown is slightly oversized, and while I’m sure some might think it’s a bit bulky, I love it. It adds to the vintage aesthetic and reminds me a lot of an onion crown, except without the onion shape. And, of course, the crown is signed with the GS logo in relief for a nice finishing touch.

Turn the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch around, and you’ve got an exhibition case back secured by six screws. The sapphire crystal lets you peek at the manual-winding movement inside (more on that later), and there’s a delicate beaded border around the glass to draw your attention inward. It’s a small detail, but it really adds to the overall elegance of the watch.

A Clean, Date-less Dial

For the dial, the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Winding SBGW305 watch continues its tradition of clean, refined watchmaking. And you might not agree with me, but it’s seriously all the better for having no date. 

I can’t overstate how much I love a no-date dial, especially on a dress watch like this. There’s just something so satisfying about the simplicity and symmetry it brings. No date, no clutter, just pure elegance.

The dial itself has a beautiful silver sunray finish that keeps things classic and versatile. It’s subtle enough to stay under the radar but has just enough shimmer to catch the light and add depth. There are no intricate patterns or distractions here, just a clean, timeless surface that’s all about understated sophistication. It feels like the perfect blank canvas for the polished hardware to shine.

Speaking of the hardware, the indices are hand-applied and fully polished, reflecting light like tiny mirrors. Each cardinal hour marker gets a double index for extra clarity, which adds a practical touch without disrupting the design’s flow. The hands are sharp and angular, crafted with the same meticulous attention to detail. 

The minute and second hands are even slightly bent by hand to follow the subtle curve of the dial. It’s a detail that’s easy to miss but impossible not to appreciate once you notice it. There’s no blued second hand here like the SBGW235. Instead, everything sticks to a sleek monochromatic silver and steel theme, which gives the watch a harmonious, cohesive look.

The only other feature to note is the Grand Seiko logo positioned at 12 o’clock. You might have noticed that the font for this is a little different from some of the Japanese watch manufacturer’s other models. It’s a replica of their 1960s emblem, working as the perfect signpost to the inspiration behind this model.

A Manual Winding Movement

A watch like the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 could only be powered by a manual-winding movement. It’s a 1960s-inspired timepiece, after all. 

I’ve always had a soft spot for manual winding watches; there’s just something so satisfying about winding your watch each morning feeling that connection to the craftsmanship on your wrist. Manual winding is not just a feature here but part of the experience.

The movement in question is the Grand Seiko Caliber 9S64, a hand-wound movement introduced in 2011. It offers a 72-hour power reserve so it’s perfect for wearing as a formal work watch. 

For example, if you wear it during the workweek and take it off on Friday night, it’ll still be ticking when Monday morning rolls around. The movement also operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, which gives it that buttery-smooth sweep of the second hand that’s a joy to watch.

Since it’s made entirely in-house by Grand Seiko, the Caliber 9S64 is packed with all the high-tech features known to the Japanese watchmaker. For example, it uses the brand’s proprietary alloy called Spron510 for the mainspring, which is thinner and longer than usual, allowing for that impressive three-day power reserve. 

Meanwhile, the balance spring is made from Spron610, another proprietary alloy that’s highly shock-resistant and anti-magnetic, ensuring durability and reliability.

Grand Seiko’s commitment to precision is also on full display here. The movement is tested in six different positions and at three different temperatures over 17 days to achieve an accuracy rating of +5 to -3 seconds per day. That’s a rating better than the COSC standard.

And let’s not forget the finishing. Through the exhibition case back, the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch lets you admire the striped bridges, polished screws, and the visible jewels, which are positioned in a way that makes them sparkle when the light hits just right. 

It’s not as elaborately decorated as some haute horology movements, but the clean and purposeful aesthetic fits Grand Seiko’s design philosophy perfectly.

The Beads of Rice Bracelet

As you could probably tell from the introduction, the feature I was most excited to see in person on the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Wind SBGW305 watch was the beads of rice bracelet. It’s a strap that’s the perfect match for a vintage-inspired dress watch. 

It’s a stainless steel five-link bracelet with a “beads of rice” design, something of a rarity on Grand Seiko dress pieces and one of the reasons this watch stands out.

 If you’re not familiar with the beads of rice style, it’s a bracelet that gets its name from the small, rounded center links that resemble tiny grains of rice arranged in neat rows. These links are flanked by polished outer links, giving the bracelet a timeless, elegant look. 

What I love most about the beads of rice bracelet is how it wears. The tiny, closely spaced links allow the bracelet to drape and conform to your wrist almost like fabric. It’s incredibly comfortable and there’s no pinching or stiffness, just a silky-smooth feel. 

This level of flexibility makes it an absolute joy to wear, especially if you’re someone who values comfort as much as style.

The bracelet is 19mm wide at the lugs and tapers down to 17mm at the clasp, adding to the overall sleekness of the watch. The clasp itself is a dual push-button release, which is easy to use and feels secure. 

Now, here’s the downside: there’s no micro-adjustment on the clasp, and the bracelet doesn’t come with any half links. This means getting the perfect fit can be a bit of a challenge. I won’t sugarcoat it, if you’re particular about how snug your bracelet fits, this might be a sticking point.

One thoughtful feature is the drilled lugs, which makes swapping out the bracelet for a strap super easy. However, the 19mm lug width is a bit uncommon, so finding aftermarket straps might take some effort. Still, the versatility of the bracelet means you might not even want to take it off. 

It complements the watch’s design so well, from the polished Zaratsu case to the clean, silver dial, that it feels like they were made for each other. In short, while the bracelet isn’t perfect in terms of adjustability, it more than makes up for it in looks and comfort. It’s a stunning addition to an already beautiful watch.

On-Wrist Experience

I was fortunate enough to get hands-on with the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch for a whole week, and I truly mean this: I only took it off when I needed to be around water. It was an absolute dream to wear. 

It felt made for my 5.5-inch wrist, which isn’t something I say often when I review watches. My wrists often struggle with larger watches, but this one fits like a glove.

The compact 37.3mm case, short lug-to-lug of 44.3mm, and the slim 11.7mm thickness makes it perfectly proportioned for smaller-than-average wrists. It hugs the wrist without feeling bulky, and the beads of rice bracelet adds an extra layer of comfort, draping naturally and flexibly around the skin. 

It would easily suit wrists up to 7.5 inches in my opinion, but anything over that and it may start to feel a little small for your frame. That said, don’t let me put you off, especially if you love a small vintage-inspired timepiece.

At just 108 grams, the Grand Seiko Elegance Manual Wind SBGW305 watch has a reassuring heft without being overwhelming. It feels substantial but not heavy, striking that perfect balance that lets you forget it’s even there until you catch a glimpse of it peeking out from under your sleeve. 

The slim profile means it slides effortlessly under any dress cuff, too, so it’s ideal for formal occasions or as an “at-the-office watch”. While it’s marketed as a men’s dress watch, the size and design are easily unisex.

Price & Availability

Although the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 is a “simple” watch in many ways, keeping things clean and minimalistic, it packs a punch in terms of its attention to detail and technology. It’s why when I found out its retail price, I was shocked – in the best way. It retails brand new for only $5,700. 

There aren’t many watches as physically beautiful and technologically impressive as this at this price. Plus, if you’re lucky, you might be able to find it cheaper on the second-hand market. I found a couple of examples retailing for around $4,000.

The Grand Seiko SBGW305 is currently a permanent addition to the brand’s Elegance collection, so it’s not limited to a specific set of numbers. It can be ordered indefinitely as long as the stock lasts. 

Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces to ensure you receive a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW305 watch might be one of the most beautiful Grand Seiko watches I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing. It’s a timepiece that feels tailor-made for smaller wrists thanks to its compact dimensions, and equally as perfect for anyone who appreciates a clean, refined, vintage-inspired timepiece.

The beads of rice bracelet is as stunning as I’d hoped, draping comfortably around the wrist and adding to the watch’s retro charm. While I do wish it had some micro-adjustment for an easier fit, it’s a minor gripe that doesn’t detract from the overall experience. The dimensions are spot-on, the manual-winding movement is a joy to interact with, and the simplicity of the dial is pure perfection.

I know this is a watch many Grand Seiko collectors have been waiting for, and I can confidently say it was worth the wait. If you’ve been considering adding this beauty to your collection, I promise you won’t be disappointed.