Breguet Type XXI Watches

Breguet Type XXI Review

Breguet first started its Type XX series in 1995; later on, they added a more extensive addition with the Type XXI, and an even more diverse version of the watches came out with the Type XXII, which featured a 10 Hz movement.

Initially, the Type XX series had many flaws but was still beloved by people, especially when it was created. The Type XXI series has now replaced the Type XX, and Breguet released the first collection of this series in 2011. The collection featured watches that represented the titanium version of the earlier released XXI 3810 aviator watch.

Under the Type XXI collection, the case of all the watches was bolder, having a diameter of 42 mm, and looked sportier. People wanted larger watches by this time, and the 38 mm diameter Type XX just was not doing well.

When Breguet released its Type XXI collection, they made a special watch for charity, in which a unique watch was auctioned. This watch was called the Breguet Type XXI 3813, which was made of platinum and featured a different dial than those in the XXI collection. If you remove the platinum case and instead choose a stainless-steel case, you get the Breguet Type XXI 3817, which was introduced at Baselworld 2016.

The Types

The Breguet Type XXI Collection has two watches known as Breguet Type XXI 3810 and Breguet Type XXI 3817. These two types were further divided into more variations.

The Breguet Type XXI 3810 has four variations:

• Breguet Type XXI 3810TI/H2/TZ9
• Breguet Type XXI 3810ST/92/9ZU
• Breguet Type XXI 3810ST/92/SZ9
• Breguet Type XXI 3810BR/92/9ZU

The Breguet Type XXI 3810 is known as the flyback chronograph titanium watch. It has an elapsed minute register on the center hand and a self-winding movement with the date and sub-dial (to represent the seconds).

The watch also has a day and night indicator, as well as an hour totalizer. The watch features luminous hands, hour markers, a graduated turning bezel, a screw-locked crown, water-resistance of 100 meters (10 bars), and a diameter of 42 mm.

The Breguet Type XXI 3817 has two variations:

• Breguet Type XXI 3817BR/Z2/3ZU
• Breguet Type XXI 3817ST/X2/3ZU

The Breguet Type XXI 3817 was released in 2016 at Baselworld and featured a steel case with a fluted case band. The watch measures 42 mm in diameter and has a bidirectional rotating bezel, a screw-locked crown, and up to 100-meter (10 bars) water resistance.

The watch features its day and night indicator at the 3 o'clock mark. The 12-hour totalizer can be seen at 6 o'clock along with the date next to it. Small seconds are featured at the 9 o'clock mark. The hands and dots on these watches are luminescent.

You can get this watch in calfskin leather and rose-gold case.

Similarities

Both the watch collections within the Type XXI watches have many similar features. Although there are quite a few differences, some of the watch's basic features have been kept the same as per consumer demand.

Every watch featured in the Type XXI collection has a case diameter of 42 mm, which remains the same regardless of the watch variations. Both watch collections include the following features:

• Self-winding
• Flyback chronograph
• 10 bars of water resistance
• Luminous hands
• Central minute hand
• Central chronograph second hand
• A day and night indicator, featuring a 24-hour hand, along with the date

Differences

Caliber

Breguet Type XXI 3810

This collection is powered by the 584Q movement. This type of caliber is a cam-actuated chronograph. The chronograph graph works well with a start and stop action and has a central minute totalizer.

The dial is large enough that you won't have to squint your eyes to see it. The flyback function dates back to the military specification of Breguet watches and is kept alive even in this collection. 

Breguet Type XXI 3817

In the Breguet Type XXI 3817, the movement was replaced with a caliber 584Q/2. The machine is polished gold and is visible through the sapphire crystal case. The caliber 584Q/2 is the newer version of the caliber 584Q/2.

This is not the first collection of Breguet that used silicon parts, but these parts are regarded highly in Breguet's watch designs, as they help the watch function better.

The Caliber 584Q/2 operates at 28,800BPH (4 Hz) and has a power reserve of 48 hours. It features an automatic movement that offers date, time, and flyback chronograph. The caliber's functions and performance are among the biggest highlights of this watch collection in the Type XXI watches.

Jewels

The Breguet Type XXI 3810 features up to 25 jewels in it, and this number is not far off from the number of jewels present in the Breguet Type XXI 3817, which features 26 jewels.

Power reserve

Breguet Type XXI 3810 has a power reserve of up to 45 hours, while the Breguet Type XXI 3817 has a power reserve of up to 48 hours. The power reserve difference is because the Breguet Type XXI 3817 contains the newer version of the caliber present in the Breguet Type XXI 3810 watches since it was released later.

Balance wheel

The Breguet Type XXI 3810 features an annular balance wheel, which allows precision in manufacturing. In contrast, the Breguet Type XXI 3817 features a Breguet balance wheel, allowing the watch to have good performance and keep a constant period regardless of the altitude.

Escapement

The Breguet Type XXI 3810 features a Swiss straight-line lever escapement, and the Breguet Type XXI 3817 features an inverted straight-line lever escapement.

Oscillating weight

The Breguet Type XXI 3810 oscillating weight is made of heavy metal, while the Breguet Type XXI 3817 oscillating weight is made of 18 karats gold.

Conclusion

Breguet's XX, XXI, and XXII collections have brought several innovative watches to the market, which has allowed watch enthusiasts to enjoy all sorts of watches. While the old ones will have their own charm, the newer ones are setting new benchmarks for quality and design in their respective segments.