Grand Seiko SBGM021 Review: A Blast from Grand Seiko’s Past

More often than not, I find myself reporting on watches that have just launched. I’m usually trawling the latest exhibitions and trying on brand-new pieces that are fresh off the design bench. So, it’s not often I get to review a watch that’s been out for a while, whether it’s a watch I previously missed or one I’ve not had the chance to sit down with for a long time. 

In the case of today’s review, it’s the latter. The Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 is a watch I’ve not seen, or honestly really thought of, since I first started collecting watches. That’s because this is a timepiece that came out over a decade ago, a time before Grand Seiko split from Seiko to become its own brand. 

So, why the trip back in time to review the SBGM021? Well, it’s simple: sometimes, it’s worth taking a second look at a watch purely for the fun of it. Has this Grand Seiko kept its original charm, or has it begun to feel a bit outdated?

A Decade-Old Watch

In case you’re not familiar with it, the story of Grand Seiko began in 1960 as Seiko’s high-end sub-brand. It was a collection created to show the world that Japanese craftsmanship, or at least Seiko’s craftsmanship, could rival those that were leading the way in Switzerland. 

Their goal was simple: to create a watch with incredible accuracy, durability, and beauty. For decades, the brand rather quietly crafted timepieces under the Seiko umbrella, slowly but surely earning a reputation among watch enthusiasts for the exact reasons they set out: beauty, precision, and robustness. 

However, in 2017, Grand Seiko officially split from Seiko to operate as a distinct luxury brand. While still owned by the same parent company, this independence gave Grand Seiko greater creative control and allowed it to further elevate its designs and innovation, competing directly with established Swiss luxury brands. 

This shift marked Grand Seiko’s evolution from a hidden gem to a front-line luxury label known worldwide for its incredible craftsmanship and distinct, heritage-inspired designs. 

The Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 is a prime example of a model from Grand Seiko’s “pre-independence” era. Released in 2013, it features a rare dial layout where the Seiko logo sits prominently at 12 o’clock while the Grand Seiko logo rests at 6 o’clock. 

This layout is a relic of its days as a Seiko sub-brand, making it something of a historical artifact and a piece of evidence of Grand Seiko’s pre-transitional period. 

Owning a pre-2017 Grand Seiko like the SBGM021 is, in a way, owning a piece of the brand’s legacy as it’s a design that reflects the brand’s journey from a prestigious but understated sub-brand to a globally respected luxury label. 

Its historical significance has also added to its value, especially among collectors who appreciate Grand Seiko’s history. It’s for this reason, it’s a pleasure to get hands-on with the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch again after over a decade.

A Vintage Case 

The case of the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch is a wonderful blend of vintage design cues and modern craftsmanship, drawing clear inspiration from Grand Seiko’s original 1967 62GS case, albeit with updated proportions. 

Measuring 39.5mm across and 13.7mm thick, it’s a really nice size for my five-and-a-half inch. It’s a set of dimensions I’d happily wear daily, and yet, with its polished finish, it gives the model a formal edge. 

One of the standout features of the SBGM021’s case is its Zaratsu polishing, a technique that’s well-known by Grand Seiko watch collectors at this point. Achieving Zaratsu’s mirror-finish shine requires highly skilled artisans who have mastered the art after several years of training. 

The process involves holding the precious stainless steel against a spinning tin plate at precise angles and pressure, creating a reflection so smooth and clear that, when I wore this watch, I could use parts of the case like a mirror! 

And given the rounded, almost “pot-bellied” profile of this case’s architecture, that perfect polish is a challenge to achieve, demanding absolute precision to get that seamless, symmetrical finish. 

The lugs of the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 are a highlight, too. They’re short, gently curved, and feature broad polished facets that really catch the light. 

I wouldn’t mind a touch more satin brushing for contrast, but as it stands, the variation between polished sections on the case sides and lug tops adds just enough depth to keep things visually interesting. 

Then there’s the domed box sapphire crystal on top, a feature that subtly nods to the watch’s vintage roots. It almost looks like 1960s plexiglass, except you can expect a whole lot more scratch resistance and durability. 

The front pairs with a sapphire case back, which allows for an unobstructed view of the automatic movement working hard inside. The case back has six screws around the edge to help ensure its water resistance of 30 meters. 

In a similar fashion, the crown, at 3 o’clock, is gently knurled, making it easy to operate. It’s a simple push-pull crown and is embossed with the GS logo in relief. 

An Ivory Lacquer Dial 

For the dial, the Japanese watchmaker has opted for a beautiful ivory lacquer base, which fits all too well with the vintage charm it aims for. It has the same classic refinement of early Grand Seiko models with a rich, creamy finish that captures and softens light beautifully. Like the sizing and polishing of the case, it’s a color that works well during the day as well as during formal evening occasions. 

One of the first things that catches your eye is the dual branding on the dial. It’s an unusual feature in today’s world and a direct result of this model’s pre-2017 origins when Grand Seiko was still a Seiko sub-brand. 

At 12 o’clock, the silvered “Seiko” logo is prominently displayed, while the vintage “Grand Seiko” insignia is subtly positioned at 6 o’clock, accompanied by the “Automatic” and “GMT” text in classic black print. 

Some might find the dual branding distracting or less “luxury” than post-2017 Grand Seiko models, but to me, it adds character. It’s a reminder of the brand’s history and offers a genuine vintage appeal that’s rare in today’s market. 

The hands and markers also help the dial shine, both literally and figuratively. Each hour marker is crafted with micro-metric faceting, meticulously finished and polished using diamond-tipped tools by hand to catch the light with a jewel-like quality. 

It’s these painstaking details that make Grand Seiko’s dials feel almost alive. The markers, like the sword-like dauphine hands, gleam with a mix of satin and high-polish finishes, creating contrast against the ivory lacquer. 

Of course, you also have the GMT function which is tastefully executed with a short blued GMT hand. It’s a subtle pop of color that contrasts elegantly against the other polished steel hardware and cream backdrop. 

Unlike many GMT watches where the extra hand can clutter the dial, here it’s compact and discreet, marked with a thick arrow tip that’s easy to read without overwhelming the design. The dial’s internal 24-hour scale is printed in black for clarity, aligning with the black minute track that runs along the outer edge. 

The only other feature to note on the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch’s dial is the date window placed at 3 o’clock. It’s been cleverly integrated into the layout, taking the place of the hour marker in a way that maintains the dial’s symmetry. Framed elegantly with its own polished silver border, it provides functionality without disrupting the balance.

Movement 

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch is the automatic winding Caliber 9S66. Yes, it’s not quite as spectacular as maybe Grand Seiko’s well-known Spring Drive or Hi-Beat movements, but it’s still a beautiful in-house movement that features everything you could need, from an impressive power reserve to chronometer-worthy levels of accuracy. 

The “9S66” designation of the caliber tells you all you need to know. The 9S indicates that it’s from Grand Seiko’s mechanical series, while the “66” points to its dual-time capability, allowing you to track a second time zone with ease. 

This model includes a “true GMT” function, meaning the hour and GMT hands are independently adjustable. In practical terms, this allows you to set the local hour hand separately from the GMT hand, an especially convenient feature for travelers since you can adjust the local time without interfering with the main time display or the second time zone. 

The Caliber 9S66’s daily accuracy is particularly impressive, adjusted to an astonishing -3 to +5 seconds per day. That’s better than the industry-standard chronometer specifications, which permit -4 to +6 seconds. 

Grand Seiko also rigorously adjusts each movement to six positions rather than the typical five positions used in Swiss chronometers. It’s just another way Grand Seiko proves they’re in direct competition with the Swiss, always trying to do better. 

Beyond its precision, the Caliber 9S66 is robust and built to last, with a 72-hour (or 3-day) power reserve that gives you plenty of leeway before needing a rewind. The movement uses 35 jewels and incorporates Grand Seiko’s proprietary SPRON materials in both the mainspring and hairspring, providing exceptional anti-magnetic resistance and resilience. It also operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Straps

The strap isn’t usually the first thing you notice about a watch, but upon taking the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 out of its box for this review, I was really surprised at how nice the strap felt and looked. It’s subtle yet unmistakably luxurious, with a brown alligator print on the top and a soft, milky-smooth calfskin lining on the underside. The calfskin feels incredibly supple against the wrist, giving it a broken-in comfort right from the first wear.

The shade of brown is a classic match for the ivory dial, and the brown stitching adds just enough structure without taking away from the overall refinement. Adding a vintage-inspired touch, the stainless steel pin buckle harkens back to Grand Seiko’s early designs from the 1960s. It features a beautifully engraved Grand Seiko logo, carefully set against a textured backdrop that’s intentionally noticeable and has a single, push button-release fold for easy wear.

At 19mm, the lugs might pose a challenge for finding alternative straps, but the SBGM021’s drilled lugs make swapping them a breeze if you’re in the mood for a new look. While the alligator strap gives it a formal edge, a vintage-style calfskin strap with off-white stitching could add a bit of rugged character and help the watch transition from a dress watch to more of a comfortable travel companion.

On-Wrist Experience

So, how did I find wearing the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch this past week? Honestly, it’s been a delightful experience. At 39.5mm wide and 13.7mm thick, the watch manages to sit lower on the wrist than you might expect, thanks to its bowl-shaped case design. This makes it surprisingly versatile, fitting a wide range of wrist sizes, from as small as 6 inches to as large as 8 inches.

While it is slightly thicker than anticipated, keep in mind that some of that is due to the domed sapphire crystal, which adds to the vintage appeal. It’s also a thickness that is manageable, and unless you’re completely committed to a super tight shirt cuff, you’ll still be able to pull this off nicely with formal attire. 

The alligator strap adds another layer of comfort that is worth noting. It feels luxurious against the skin and contributes to keeping the weight of the stainless steel nicely balanced. It’s not a heavy watch, but you still feel like you’re wearing something solid and special.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGM021, while a remarkable timepiece, is now over ten years old, making it somewhat of a rarity in the market today. If you’re on the hunt for this specific model, don’t expect to find it brand new at your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer. If you do, please just make sure they are authorized to sell Grand Seiko watches first. We’d hate for you to purchase a counterfeit timepiece. 

For those looking for authentic models, stick to websites like Exquisite Timepieces which are reputable authorized Grand Seiko stockists, selling all their new models complete with official paperwork and warranties.

For those who want to get their hands on the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021, your best bet is to explore the second-hand market. While this model is relatively scarce, it can occasionally be found.

The watch typically sells for around $4,000 in the pre-owned market. This price point reflects its historical significance and the overall collectability of Grand Seiko watches today.

And if you’re unable to find a pre-owned SBGM021 or if you prefer something brand new, consider the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221. Priced at $4,600, it features the same stunning ivory lacquer dial and GMT complication, along with a compact set of dimensions. Keep in mind that it boasts the updated Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock, eliminating the Seiko branding entirely, but it retains much of the charm and specifications of the SBGM021.

Conclusion

So there you have it; the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221 might just be even better now than it was when it was released. It continues to exemplify everything the brand stands for, even after a decade, offering high levels of beauty, accuracy, and durability. 

It’s a dress watch that perfectly blends elegance and functionality, giving you a formal look with technology to get you through every day and symbolizing a piece of Grand Seiko’s history we should never forget.

I’m particularly fond of the rounded case and domed sapphire crystal. It gives the watch a beautiful vintage aesthetic that makes you forget you own a modern-day timepiece and, instead something truly from the 1960s. I also love the leather strap. It’s incredibly soft and comfortable and complements the ivory lacquer dial nicely.

Finally, I need to applaud Grand Seiko for the thoughtful dial layout. It’s all too easy for GMT watch dials to feel overly complicated and busy, especially when incorporating a date complication and dual branding, like in this instance. 

And while I know it’s not the cleanest of dials, it’s still sophisticated, refined, and easily legible. It’s for all these reasons the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221 watch has retained its appeal even after ten years.