Grand Seiko SBGH299 Review

There’s nothing better than a watch that seems rather simple and timeless in its aesthetic at first but in fact, has a whole lot more to offer upon closer inspection. The beauty of its design lies in its complexity, which can only be appreciated by those who take the time to explore its intricacies, whether that be the meticulous movement inside or the more outward displays of craftsmanship on the case and dial. Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko has a number of designs that fall into this category, and one I’ve yet to truly explore up close is the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299.

History of the Grand Seiko SBGH299

If you’re already a fan of Grand Seiko, it’ll come as no surprise to you that model SBGH299 is inspired by an aspect of its country of origin. Most Grand Seiko watches take inspiration from their Japanese heritage in one way or the other, whether it be a dial color evoking the color of snow on a particular mountain seen outside Grand Seiko Studio’s Shizukuishi or a texture imitating the fabric of traditional Japanese attire.

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is one of the same. It’s a watch that is beautifully modeled after the look and texture of fresh snowfall in the winter mountain scenery seen outside the company’s factory windows. It was released alongside several other new 44GS Hi-Beat references back in early 2023, and although it was nothing groundbreaking in terms of technology and design, the collection made sure one of their best-selling models was kept up-to-date and refreshed.

The collection debuted five references in total, all replacing five existing models with some minor changes made to the case, bracelet, and dials. The series includes reference SBGH301 with a dark gray dial, SBGJ263 with a silver GMT dial, SBGJ265 also with GMT function on a black dial, and SBGJ267, a boutique-only edition with a blue GMT display. Then of course, there’s SBGH299, the model we’re reviewing today, a classic time-only model with an off-white dial.

An Ever-Brilliant Case

Like its brothers and sisters in the Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat collection, the ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 model is designed after the iconic 44GS case. What is this? It’s a 1967 Grand Seiko reference that was pivotal in shaping the brand’s style and establishing its so-called Grammar of Design. The design philosophy emphasizes simplicity, precision, and beauty, with the cases often boasting flat surfaces and crisp, sharp angles for a clean and refined look. Similarly, they use their famous Zaratsu polishing technique to achieve a distortion-free mirror-like surface.

One look at the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch, and it’s clear these principles have been applied to the case. The almost barrel-shaped architecture has multiple facets and finishes that allow it to catch the light beautifully.  The strong, angular shoulders are vertically brushed for contrast against the Zaratsu polished flat surfaces found on the bezel, case sides, and lugs. It’s a beautiful example of how light play can make all the difference in how a watch wears.

The case of the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch is masterfully engineered from a material the Japanese watchmaker calls “Ever-Brilliant Steel.” It’s a high-grade, proprietary stainless steel alloy known for its exceptional durability, corrosion resistance, and almost bright white appearance. Its robustness is essential, of course, but the bright white finish of the metal is its standout feature. It gives the watch a more luxurious and refined look compared to traditional stainless steel watches.

As for dimensions, the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is a relatively average-sized watch with a 40mm diameter, 13.3mm height, and a lug-to-lug of 46.2mm. I have to say, its lug-to-lug feels a little larger than that, in my opinion, and I think that’s predominantly down to the male end links (possibly one of the only features of this watch I would change – but more on that later.)

The watch arrives with dual-curved sapphire crystal glass on the front, treated with anti-reflective coating for a distortion-free view of the dial. The glass makes up much of the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299’s thickness but does add a touch of vintage flair to the design. The case back also presents sapphire crystal glass, with a knurled pattern surrounding the round insert, drawing your eyes to the movement exposed in the middle. Like the case back, the crown is screwed down and decorated with the GS logo in relief. It provides a healthy water-resistant rating of 100 meters.

A Dial Worthy of a Close Up

You need to trust me when I say this is one of those watches where press shots and online imagery of the watch do not do the dial justice. When the light hits it just right, the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch showcases an absolutely beautiful sunburst pattern that has an almost silver-cream finish to it. It’s almost champagne in some lights before turning a cooler shade of silver in others. It isn’t just your standard sunburst pattern, either. It’s incredibly complex and looks almost like fur or the barbs of a feather.

I’m a huge fan of the texture here. It’s incredibly subtle, which to me, makes it all the more magical. It’s one of those watches you have to see up close to appreciate the complexities behind it, and if you’re like me and you prefer a watch with some hidden intricacies, you’ll love this, too. If it was me, I’d have taken out the date window placed at 3 o’clock so more attention could be placed on the dial, but I understand many watch wearers require the convenience of date complication and so, there it must remain.

Like the silvered border of the date window, the hardware of the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is predominantly silver. The hour and minute hands are sharp and sword-shaped, paired with the faceted and brightly polished oblong hour markers sitting at each 5-minute interval. The minute track is printed in black, and the seconds hand, left perfectly straight and uniform, is blued for a beautiful contrast against its creamy silver backdrop.  

A High-Beat Movement

Unsurprisingly for a watch named the Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’, reference SBGH299 is powered by one of Grand Seiko’s well-known 9S hi-beat calibers. The exact movement in question is the Caliber 9S85 which beats at an outstanding rate of 36,000vph or 5Hz. It has 37 jewels and promises simple time and date functionality. Be aware it doesn’t have a GMT complication like some of the other references in the 2023 collection.

Like all Grand Seiko watches, the caliber is tested to the highest standards, beating even the regulations required by COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). It has been adjusted in six different positions and tested for an accuracy of -3/+5 seconds per day. Much of its reliability comes from its Spron 610 hairspring, which Grand Seiko argues offers three times more resistance to electromagnetic frequencies and two times the shock resistance of the previous generation Spron hairsprings.

We’re also promised a healthy 55-hour power reserve and when off the wrist, the movement is worth being admired thanks to its beautiful finishing. The use of Zaratsu polishing on the movement’s plates and bridges creates a mirror-like finish that works incredibly well with the finishing on the case. Equally, the Geneva stripes on the rotor and perlage on the mainplate add additional visual appeal.

A Full Metal Bracelet

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch arrives on a solid Ever-Brilliant Steel bracelet with three-row links and a beautiful combination of polished and brushed finishing. It has a 19mm lug width which tapers down to 18mm at the folding clasp. The 19mm size is a little awkward for those hoping to find an array of straps to swap this bracelet out with, but its drilled lugs do make it a possibility.

The buckle is a standard Grand Seiko folding clasp that follows suit to the crown and shows off the GS logo in relief. Sadly, there is no micro-adjustment on the bracelet, but there is a half link on both sides, so you should be able to get a pretty snug fit.  As mentioned earlier, the strap does include male end links, which is something I’d love to swap out of the design. It makes fitting this model on smaller wrists a little harder as they stick out rather a lot, adding to the overall lug-to-lug width.

On-Wrist Experience

I have to be honest, of all the Grand Seiko watches out there, the ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 has never been one to pique my interest. There’s really no other reason than because the imagery I had seen online didn’t look all that enticing. But I should have known; no Grand Seiko photographs like the real thing. These are watches that have to be seen in person because the beauty is in the details you can only see up close. The subtle textures, the play of light on the dial, the meticulous finishing on the hands, and indices—all these elements come together in a way that photos simply can’t capture.

My favorite feature here has to be the dial. I was not expecting to love the creamy silver color or the finely textured sunburst finish as much as I do. It’s really beautiful, and I love how it changes and evolves in different lights. The case is also beautifully done; it’s a classic shape with a set of easy-to-wear dimensions. I have no doubt those of you looking for a daily beater or a formal dress watch will be happy with how the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 looks on your wrist.

My only irk, and it is a small one, falls to the male end links. The end links do protrude a little from the case, which makes wearing the watch on my five-and-a-half-inch wrists a little difficult. That said, I think this is more down to my distaste for having a small frame rather than the actual size of the watch. It’s worth noting though, that the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ is going to best suit wrists of 6.5 inches or above. Anything above 8 inches and the watch might appear too small.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is available to order new from authorized stockists like Exquisite Timepieces for $6,900. It can also be purchased from second-hand sites for around $4,200. It’s a non-limited edition and since its release in 2023, Grand Seiko has made no mention of removing it from their permanent collection.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is a beautiful watch through and through. In fact, I’d say it’s something of a hidden gem in the Japanese brand’s collection. Online, it doesn’t look like anything overtly special or different, but in person, this is a stunning watch that perfectly embodies the high levels of craftsmanship Grand Seiko is renowned for. The crispness of the Ever-Brilliant Steel case is beautiful, but for me, it’s the dial that takes the cake. The intricate sunray decoration and the rich, creamy silver hue is worth taking an hour out of your day to see in person.