Category: Watch Reviews

It’s hard to think back to a time when watches were seen predominantly as a female accessory. Especially since the luxury watch industry has become such a male-driven space. Maybe that’s got something to do with watches being one of the very few items of jewelry a man can wear. But that’s perhaps a topic for another day. 

My point is that men held onto the classic pocket watch long after Breguet introduced its first wrist-worn watch back in 1810 for the Queen of Naples. No one had ever seen a design like that before. Its oblong case framed an engine-turned silver dial, boasting complications like a moon phase, thermometer, and repeater. You can certainly see why innovations like this wouldn’t necessarily appeal to a male demographic at the time.  

Men’s watches didn’t really become a thing until the need for a reliable and legible wrist-worn watch during the First World War became apparent. Soldiers on the frontline needed a watch on a strap. Pocket watches proved very impractical for responding to the demands of warfare. In such circumstances, grabbing for a grenade with your spare hand rather than fumbling around for your pocket watch made all the difference.  

Before this, though, Cartier had released the very masculine Santos de Cartier pilot’s watch, so wristwatches weren’t completely alien. However, as is often the case, it takes time for society to conform to a change. 

The narrative that watches might not just be solely for women began to shift perceptions, and gradually, more and more designs began emerging. They weren’t just fashion accessories anymore. They were instruments that served a function. They were practical – able to hold up on the wrist under pressure. They were legible and reliable.  

Even after time spent on the battlefield, soldiers returned home wanting to wear a watch. Since that time, the market for watches has expanded exponentially. Luxury timepieces have become more refined and elegant. 

But at the same time, technologies have advanced so much that they now offer exceptional robustness, longevity, and accuracy. Today, there is a huge choice of watches to pick from. The question remains as to where to start looking if you’re new to the scene and you want to invest in one.   

If you don’t quite know what you’re looking for in a luxury watch, then the beginning is a pretty difficult place to start. Browsing watches online can be a daunting task, and trust me when I say you’re bound to fall down the odd rabbit hole or two. Before you tackle the mammoth task of searching for the perfect watch with us, there are some basics you need to know.  

In this easy-to-follow guide, I’m going to talk you through the different ways in which a watch works. We’ll look at two types of mechanical watches, automatic and manual winding, and we’ll see how these differ from the quartz watch.  

Then, we’ll look at the key watch styles and what each one offers you as a first-time buyer and wearer. We’ve got all the bases covered, so go grab a drink, kick back, and let’s begin this beginner’s guide on how to begin being a beginner (are you with me?).  

Types of Watches Based on Movements 

Part of the enjoyment of owning and wearing luxury watches is in understanding how they work. For many horology enthusiasts, admiring the complexity at play behind a transparent caseback and catching a glimpse of how each intricate component within that movement works harmoniously with another is a huge part of the experience. 

Some of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world have earned their respect by upholding time-honored watchmaking techniques that are now centuries old. Horology is a craft and an art all rolled into one. What often makes one manufacturer stand out against another is how it builds its timepieces from the inside out. The organ of the watch is the movement, and there are three key types. Let’s look at each one in a little more detail. 

Manual-Winding Watches

Manual winding movements belong under the mechanical umbrella and are the oldest of the lot. Put in simple terms, it is the winding of the crown in a mechanical watch (or the turning of a rotor in an automatic) that causes a spring to tighten inside the watch. With the help of an escapement to regulate the release of energy, that mainspring slowly starts to unwind, providing energy to the watch.  

Whereas an automatic watch takes care of the winding part, a manual-winding watch doesn’t. You’ll need to wind the crown regularly to keep your timepiece ticking over nicely. Many experienced collectors love the manual winding watch because of its tangible beauty and its visual complexity, which is often afforded through an exhibition window on the caseback.

Winding the crown tightens the mainspring, and once it is fully wound, it begins to unwind via the barrel, feeding energy to the escapement via a series of wheels and gears called the going train.  

Thanks to the use of an escapement wheel and balance fork, the mainspring is prevented from unwinding itself rapidly and losing all the energy at once. The escape wheel itself catches on a pallet that notches back and forth, connecting with an impulse pin to slowly release energy.

When you look through the back of a watch, one of the first things you will see is the balance wheel, prominently displayed through a sapphire crystal glass window as a symbol of craftsmanship. It spins continually, almost effortlessly, as the watch runs.  

Automatic Watches

With an automatic watch, a freely rotating weight rocks back and forth with the movement of your wrist. As it does so, it automatically coils the mainspring for you. The rest of the movement works in the same way as a manual-winding movement. The first thing your eyes will be drawn to when flipping an automatic watch over with an exhibition caseback is the rotor. Oftentimes, this rotor is engraved or decorated, especially by the manufacturer who makes the watch.  

Swiss watchmaker Oris, for example, implements a distinctive red rotor into all of its watches, while others may be skeletonized, crafted from 18k gold, or simply engraved with a company name.  

Quartz Watches

When the battery replaced the spring in the 1970s, it spelled disaster for so many traditional watchmakers. Some were never fortunate enough to make a comeback after the Quartz Crisis. Others survived only by changing tack and equipping some of their most popular timepieces with a quartz movement to feed consumer demand.  

Quartz has always been the cheaper and faster movement to produce. The first example was the Aston, produced by Seiko in 1969. The quartz watch works by converting electrical energy to physical energy. 

In a quartz-operated watch, an electrical current is sent to a microchip via a battery, causing a crystal to vibrate at high frequency. A microchip then picks up the vibrations created by the crystal, turning them into electric pulses that send the hands around the dial.  

Generally speaking, automatic and manual-winding watches are more expensive than quartz movements. Mechanical movements require regular services to ensure they perform seamlessly, but they last much longer than quartz watches. 

The advantage of buying a luxury timepiece from a respected manufacturer in the industry is that replacement parts and services will always be available (either directly by the official brand or via an authorized dealer). Quartz watches, on the other hand, are more affordable and make for great beginner watches, although many collectors feel they lack the complexity and craftsmanship that a mechanical watch offers.  

Spring Drive Watches

The Spring Drive Movement is a concept developed by Japanese watchmaker Seiko. It combines the advantages of both quartz and mechanical movements. Instead of the typical escapement you’d see in a mechanical watch, the Spring Drive Movement incorporates a tri-synchro regulator. 

This is a speed control mechanism that works by controlling the mainspring’s energy release, then converting the mechanical power to electrical energy, delivering it to a piece of quartz. The quartz then oscillates while the tri-synchro regulator generates a magnetic force that applies a break control, making sure optimal timekeeping is maintained. The Spring Drive movement is used in many Grand Seiko watches, including the “Omiwitari” and the “White Birch”.  

Types of Watches Based on Style 

Now that you know the difference between a mechanical and quartz watch, Let’s take a look at the different styles of watches available.  

Dive Watches 

The history of the dive watch goes back further than you think! While dive watches were enjoying their heyday back in the 1950s, the fundamental values of this style of watch were established much earlier. 

Before the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Zodiac Seawolf, and before models like the Submariner by Rolex and the DOXA SUB – there were waterproof cases like the Rolex Oyster in 1926 and the 1936 Omega Seamaster. Panerai had also developed its military-inspired Luminor watch for the Italian Navy (although it wouldn’t be released to the public until the 1990s). 

The core principles of these watches are still underpinned in most modern dive watches. Modern-day dive watches have lockable bezels, unidirectional dive scales, legible dials, screw-down crowns, depth gauges, and helium escape valves. There is an abundance of styles and designs to choose from today, and pretty much every esteemed manufacturer in the industry has dipped its toe into making a dive watch. 

Some of the most popular are those like the TAG Heuer Aquaracer, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, the DOXA SUB 200, the Panerai Submersible, and the Breitling Superocean, not forgetting, of course, the iconic and highly covetable Rolex Submariner.  

Dress Watches 

Dress watches have been around for centuries and are the most elegant of all. Even though they aren’t the kind of watch you would wear for daily affairs, outdoor pursuits, or sports, some are still robust enough for these environments. Manufacturers that excel in the realms of dress watches include Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe, and Breguet.  

Dress watches are more formal and elegant in style than your average daily beater. They often come in cases crafted from 18ct rose gold, yellow gold, white gold, or palladium and communicate opulence through simplified dials, slim case dimensions, and classic bracelets or leather straps. 

Some manufacturers create dress watches with diamond dot hour makers or diamond decoration on the dial, while others are resolutely understated for pairing with formal or business attire.  

Field Watches 

Field watches pay homage to military timepieces used in military warfare dating back to the First World War. They are the most utilitarian of designs, featuring legible dials, robust cases, and, sometimes, material straps that give them a distinctive vintage vibe. If you like watches with a bit of old-world charm, a field watch may be a great first watch for you. 

Hamilton is a master in creating field watches. Its popular Khaki line of Field, Navy, and Aviation timepieces promises lashings of Super-LumiNova material on the dial and additional 24-hour tracks. Field watches are durable, accurate, and functional. These minimalist military watches are favored by collectors for their comfort and wearability.  

Chronograph Watches 

Chronograph watches are one of the most popular complications to own, thanks to their useful stopwatch facility for measuring elapsed time. Whether you opt for a complex timepiece that combines this function with a perpetual calendar or a split-second chronograph to measure laps around a racing track, this type of watch will add something dynamic and sportier to your collection. 

You can use the timing feature on a chronograph to boil an egg on a Sunday morning or for more crucial timings in sports training. In the early 1900s, Breitling was one of the first manufacturers to add an independent 2 o’clock pusher to a wrist-worn chronograph. 

TAG Heuer is another leader in the chronograph field. The brand’s stylish chronograph watches have become the face of the brand’s many sporting partnerships over the years. Chronograph watches also come with features like tachymeter scales and pulsometers, while flybacks can start, stop, and reset a timing with a simple button push. 

Pilot Watches  

If you thought pilot’s watches were only for aviators, you were very wrong. They do have some very useful applications in the cockpit, don’t get me wrong, but seldom are they used for flying anymore. 

A pilot’s watch is a niche style that is sought-after by devoted collectors who simply love their style. Most have a distinctive retro charm and carry elements like legible Arabic numerals, luminous hands, and a triangular pointer at 12 o’clock to help orient pilots flying fighter jets during battle. 

After Cartier developed the Santos watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, flieger watches designed by manufacturers like IWC, Laco, and A. Lange & Söhne arrived. Today, pilot’s watches are a popular choice and are loved for their functionality and legibility. 

The Breitling Navitimer watch, for example, features the slide rule bezel that pilots once used for complex air-bounce calculations like speed and fuel consumption. Examples of manufacturers creating modern-day pilot tools include Bremont, Zenith, Longines, Breguet, Fortis, Oris, and Sinn.  

GMT Watches  

GMT watches are one of the most practical tools you can own. If you’re looking to start your luxury watch collection with a travel watch, I’d recommend a GMT watch. It displays an additional time zone in a 24-hour format that you can follow while traveling away on business or for leisure. 

The GMT hand forms an integral part of this design and is often triangular and highlighted in a contrasting color for improved legibility. The hand coincides with the 24-hour scale to provide time back at home, while the main central hour and minute hands track the current time of your destination. 

One of the most iconic GMT watches is the Rolex GMT-Master II, including the coveted Pepsi and Batman models with respective red/blue and blue/black bezels. Other popular examples include the Aquascaphe GMT by Baltic, the BR V2-93 GMT watch by Bell & Ross, and the Longines Spirit Zulu.  

Tourbillon Watches  

A tourbillon watch is one of the priciest options from the list but it’s also one of the most complex and beautiful. The first of its kind was developed by Abraham Louis-Breguet (yes, that’s the same manufacturer that developed the first wristwatch!). The complication is quite something to marvel at and is often displayed through the dial of a watch via an open-heart layout.

The invention defies the effect of gravitational pull on the intricate parts of the movement by suspending them inside a cage. The balance and escapement rotate inside that cage, making one full revolution every minute. The balletic motion of the tourbillon is a captivating feature in a watch and can be found in designs from Moser & Cie, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet & Vacheron Constantin.  

Conclusion  

The selection of watch styles, movements, and dials available on the market today is as diverse as the individuals who wear them. Finding the perfect timepiece, especially if you are just starting out, is not a simple task. Collecting watches is a personal experience. 

The type of watch you choose should reflect your personality and tastes above all else, but it should also be functional and suited to your daily needs. Most of all, enjoy wearing your watch for its craftsmanship, build, and quality. 

Dive watches may not be to everyone’s taste, just like a dress watch may be too formal or a pilot watch too bold for another collector. The good thing is that Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer of so many coveted brands that you can’t really go wrong when looking to start your watch-collecting journey with us.

If you are anything like me, you find watches fascinating. They are truly marvels of mechanical engineering. Despite a number of innovations, they have used the same basic way of functioning since their birth in the 16th Century.

A wristwatch does more than just tell the time. I love the various complications available on modern timepieces. From something as simple as the date to the complexities of moon phases and world calendars, these additional functions only add to that wonderful feeling of wearing your favorite watch.

Perhaps the most complex and mesmerizing of complications is the tourbillon. A tourbillon is an amazing mechanism that rotates the balance wheel and escapement while they function. A tourbillon is a visible part of the workings of a watch, generally in an open-heart dial. Tourbillon is the French word for “whirlwind”. If you’ve ever seen one, you know that is a fitting moniker.

The story of the tourbillon, how it works, and why it was created is as engaging as the complication itself. 

How Tourbillons Operate

The purpose of the tourbillon is to counter the effects of gravity on the balance wheel and escapement. These effects can impact the accuracy of a mechanical watch. To understand how a tourbillon functions, we need to look at how a mechanical watch keeps time. 

The power source of a mechanical watch is the mainspring. When you wind it, potential energy is stored. As the mainspring unwinds, kinetic energy turns the gear system that moves the hands. 

The escapement is what keeps the mainspring from unwinding all at once. It consists of the balance wheel, hairspring, and pallet fork. The hairspring causes the balance wheel to oscillate back and forth, and the pallet fork stops the action on each oscillation to turn it back the other way. 

The escapement keeps the balance wheel oscillating at a specific frequency. It turns the gears that drive the second hand to one revolution around the dial per minute, the minute hand one rev per hour, and the hour hand one rev per 12 hours. 

In a well-made timepiece, the escapement functions with a high level of precision. But, remember our old friend gravity from science class? The force that pulls everything down creates drag on the escapement. This can alter the oscillation frequency and reduce the level of precision. 

That, boys and girls, brings us to the tourbillon. This brilliant mechanism is essentially a cage around the escapement that rotates it, generally at a rate of 1 RPM. With the escapement constantly changing position, the effects of gravity are nullified, and precise timekeeping is preserved.

History of Tourbillons in Watches

The tourbillon was the brainchild of a brilliant watchmaker, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Never one to back down from a challenge (he also invented the rotor that winds automatic watches and several other innovations), Breguet invented the ingenious tourbillon to solve the gravity problem. The company that bears his name makes some of the finest tourbillon watches on the planet.

As time went on and the science and art of watchmaking developed, more sophisticated tourbillons that rotated on multiple axes were created. When wristwatches became popular, horologists built tourbillons for them. Today, a tourbillon is a symbol of prestige and good taste.

Different Types of Tourbillons

When people started wearing wristwatches and pocket watches that went out of vogue, the problem of gravity became more challenging. Unlike pocket watches that remain in a vertical position most of the time, a wristwatch sits in many different positions as the wearer moves their arm throughout the day. 

To combat the issue, horologists developed several different types of tourbillons. In addition to fighting gravity more effectively, they are incredibly fun to watch. I have a friend with a beautiful two-axis tourbillon. A group of us were having dinner one night, and several of our party could not stop looking at his watch. They are that cool.

Single Axis Tourbillon

The original tourbillon and the most common type is the single axis. It rotates around one axis, perpendicular to the dial. Many watch enthusiasts love their simplicity and elegance. They blend nicely into the dial while they do their job.

Multi Axis Tourbillon

Because wristwatches are constantly changing position, tourbillons needed to evolve to counter gravity in more than one axis. Multi-axis tourbillons, as the name implies, turn around two or even three axes. 

This improves accuracy when the watch is in multiple positions and multi-axis tourbillons are spectacular pieces of engineering that are incredible to see in action. 

Double & Quadruple Tourbillon

Just when you thought tourbillons couldn’t get any more sophisticated, along come double and quadruple variants. The level of engineering and craftsmanship in these watches is incredible. They feature either two or four cages that rotate at different speeds. 

Both precision and the wow factor are boosted exponentially. Sporting a double or quadruple tourbillon will make you the envy of your horological friends.

Flying Tourbillon

The flying tourbillon is a brilliant innovation that steps things up yet another level. A standard tourbillon is anchored by a top and bottom bridge. The flying variation lacks a top bridge. Rather than the cage rotating on its central axis, the entire mechanism moves in a small circle. 

This gives the visual effect of the tourbillon floating around the dial. A flying tourbillon effectively improves precision and is one of the most stunning horological displays you will ever see. 

Gyro Tourbillon

If you are familiar with the use of a gyroscope in aviation and nautical travel, you will understand the value of the gyro tourbillon. An extension of the multi-axis type, the gyro tourbillon turns on an axis perpendicular to the dial and another parallel to it. 

Similar to how a gyroscope functions, this type of tourbillon minimizes the effects of gravity. It is also one of the most fascinating displays you will ever see on a high-end timepiece. You may not even notice the hands.

Top 5 Tourbillon Watches on Exquisite Timepieces

If you are in the market for a tourbillon watch, check out Exquisite Timepieces. We have a wide selection of these stunning watches. Here are the top 5 most popular.

Omega De Ville Tourbillon Chronometer Numbered Edition 43mm (ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)

It’s not surprising that Omega has a watch on this list. The world-class horologists at the brand’s Atelier Tourbillon designed this stunning manual-winding central tourbillon that is master chronometer certified. The 43 mm case is a blend of 18K Sedna gold and 18K Canopus gold with an 18K Sedna gold bezel. 

The black sun-brushed dial is nicely contrasted by gold hands and indices, and a black leather strap with an 18K Sedna gold buckle fits in with the colorway. The tourbillon is the feature that draws your eye with its titanium bridge and 18K Sedna gold polished second hand attached. 

A sapphire crystal and exhibition case back are scratch-resistant and provide a view of the gorgeous Master Co-Axial Chronometer Calibre 2640 movement. The movement features a power reserve indicator that displays what you have left on the generous three-day reserve.

Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante Minute Retrograde (ref. 66260-3433-55B)

Blancpain is a world-renowned brand that makes some of the finest timepieces you will ever see. The Villeret Tourbillon Volant features a beautiful flying tourbillon that truly appears to fly about on its rounds. 

The case is available in either 43m platinum or 43mm 18K red gold. The dial is white grand feu enamel with silver hands. This is the first Blancpain watch to feature a retrograde minute hand and an hour window. The design is unique, elegant, and uncluttered. 

The sapphire crystal and exhibition case back offers a full view of the dial and movement while protecting them. You can choose between a black or brown alligator strap lined with alzavel or an 18K gold Milanese mesh bracelet. 

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton (ref. 6814-1200)

H. Moser & Cie. have a long and storied history of creating fine timepieces and have hit new heights with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton. The 40mm stainless steel silver cushion-shaped case houses the Caliber HMC 814 movement. The skeleton dial and exhibition case back allows you to view the movement and stylish tourbillon from either side. 

The hands and indices are 5N gold-plated, and the hands have Globolight inserts. The stainless steel integrated bracelet adds to the unique design. The automatic movement has a 72-hour power reserve, and the water resistance is 120 meters; much more than the average tourbillon watch.

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge (ref. 5345PT/1S/7XU)

No list of tourbillon watches would be complete without a model from Breguet, whose founder invented the complication. The Classique features a 46mm case in either platinum or 18K red gold. The skeleton dial shows off the movement including not one, but two tourbillons. 

A sapphire chapter ring with blue Roman numerals and blue hands adds to the unique and stylish design of the dial. An exhibition case back gives a view of the manual Caliber 588N movement, and the watch is protected front and back by a sapphire crystal. 

You can choose a black leather or blue rubber strap with a triple folding clasp to secure your timepiece to your wrist. The 50-hour power reserve lets you go a couple of days between windings. 

Jacob & Co. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Diamonds White Gold on Strap (ref. BT543.30.BD.BD.B)

If you like a flashy watch with plenty of bling, this offering from Jacob  & Co. is right up your alley. The large 47mm 18K white gold case is invisibly set with 205 Baguette-cut white diamonds. The dial is white gold as well and set with 146 diamonds, and even the crown features 14 stunning gems. Leaf-shaped blue hands contrast the dial nicely. This watch will definitely be noticed.

The manual movement has a whopping 100-hour power reserve, and the white alligator leather strap secures with an 18K white gold deployant clasp. The main attraction, however, is the incredible flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. A bit too ostentatious for my taste, if you have the cash to buy one, this Jacob & Co. model could be the ultimate addition to your collection

Conclusion

Complications add functions to watches and make them more than just timekeepers. Perhaps no other complication stands out as much as a tourbillon. Designed to improve accuracy, these incredible mechanisms come in several types and add a new level of sophistication, artistry, and coolness to any watch.

If you ask a Christian about the Holy Trinity, they are likely to explain it by making the sign of the cross and mentioning the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit. For faithful watch enthusiasts, the holy trinity of watches is the absolute pinnacle of their hobby, referencing the three pillars of the Swiss Watch Industry. Every watch nerd aspires to one day own an example of the holy trinity of watches: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin.

Their names are synonymous with luxury, with horology, and awe-inspiring innovation.

Why are they Called the Holy Trinity?

Enthusiasts often create creative names and titles to denote aspirational purchases and brands. A grail watch is a once-in-a-lifetime purchase, something you are dreaming of purchasing one day—maybe after a promotion or a major life milestone. 

For example, my “grail” watch is the Breguet Tradition 7097BB; will I ever get one? Maybe. And it keeps me motivated in life, serving as a reminder of my hard work and dedication to my career. The holy trinity of wristwatches serves a similar purpose: as role model and inspiration for many smaller, and often independently owned, watch brands seeking to climb Mount Luxury. 

Thus, the “Holy Trinity” term is used to emphasize the unparalleled status and the revered position these three brands hold in the world of horology, making them universally recognized both within and outside the watch industry.

Patek Philippe: A King Among Kings

I remember when I held my first Patek Philippe. I wasn’t even into watches at the time. I had an Invicta my Godfather gifted me, tucked somewhere in a sock drawer, its battery long dead. I was a teenager then, and I was asked to hold a friend’s watch while he played a game of basketball. It was gold and pristine, heavier than what I expected. 

Little did I know that I wouldn’t hold a Patek Philippe in the flesh again for some fifteen years. Holding a Patek Philippe in hand is something special. Pictures just don’t do them justice.

Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has established itself as a leader in high horology, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now widely adopted across the watch industry. 

Its numerous horological achievements include the creation of the first annual calendar watch and the introduction of wristwatches featuring perpetual calendars and split-second chronographs. 

Patek Philippe enjoys popularity across its collections, but its Aquanaut and Nautilus sports models are some of its most recognizable pieces. It is also worth mentioning the historical relevance of its Calatrava line, first introduced in 1932. The Calatrava continues to serve as a reminder of the beauty in simplicity and the remarkable craftsmanship of Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe is the king, plain and simple. Their watches have adorned the wrists of many famous individuals, including Queen Victoria, Albert Einstein, and Pablo Picasso. Celebrities like Brad Pitt, Ellen DeGeneres, and John Mayer are also known for their appreciation of the brand’s exceptional timepieces. Athletes, including tennis star Rafael Nadal and basketball legend LeBron James, have been known to wear multiple references from the brand. 

Vacheron Constantin: The Grandpa We All Love

Vacheron Constantin is the grandpa we all love! It is one of the oldest watchmakers in existence today, and it is certainly the oldest, by a wide margin, on this list. I was lucky enough to try on a rose gold Overseas a few years ago. 

I was blown away by the depth of its blue dial, by the finishing of its movement, and by a bracelet that seemed to be constructed by an alien race rather than human hands. It just flowed over my wrist like a waterfall, embracing the contours and curves of my wrist without being unobtrusive or uncomfortable. The watch was perfect—emblematic of Vacheron Constantin as a brand.

Vacheron Constantin, one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious watchmakers, was founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin. The company boasts over 250 years of uninterrupted watchmaking, surviving and thriving through multiple world wars, the quartz crisis, the Industrial Revolution, and the digital age. 

Vacheron Constantin is renowned for several innovations in horology. They introduced the first engine-turned dials in 1779 and developed one of the first watches with a date complication in 1790. The company also created the world’s thinnest mechanical watch in 1955 and continues to push boundaries with complex grand complications, such as the Reference 57260, which features 57 complications and is considered one of the most complicated watches ever made.

Although it may not enjoy the same brand recognition as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin watches have been worn by notable figures such as Marlon Brando, Jay-Z, and Eric Clapton. Athletes like Michael Jordan and Tom Brady are also known to sport these prestigious timepieces, showcasing their broad appeal across various fields. Vacheron Constantin offers a rich collection of dressy, sporty, and complicated timepieces. 

Across their line, the Overseas—a sports model offered in steel, titanium, or precious metal—enjoys the most mass appeal and popularity. The Historique American 1921, originally created for the American market in the early 20th century, offers a unique cushion-shaped case and a dial that is tilted at a 45-degree angle for easier viewing while driving.

Audemars Piguet: The Rebellious Teenager

Audemars Piguet, or as the masses refer to it, “A-P,” is the third member of the venerated holy trinity of watches. The brand is not only important and relevant to horology but has also transcended culture, music, sports, and the world of luxury “it” items. LeBron James is a big fan and even has his own special edition. You’ll also see Tom Cruise, Jay-Z, and Lionel Messi rocking AP watches. 

Audemars Piguet has been crafting watches since 1875 when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Today, the company is headquartered in Le Brassus and remains one of the few watchmaking firms still privately owned, with the Audemars family at the helm. 

Known for its innovations, Audemars Piguet created the world’s first-minute repeater movement for wristwatches in 1892 and introduced the first jumping-hour watch in 1921. In 1986, they also launched the first self-winding tourbillon wristwatch.

I have to admit, if I were to close my eyes and envision a luxury sports watch, it would be the Royal Oak every time. Designed by Gérald Genta and released in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first true luxury sports watch. 

This iconic design inspired, at least in part, the Nautilus and Overseas models from the two other Holy Trinity brands we’ve explored here, as well as numerous others in the industry. The Code 11.59 is another, more recent collection that has gained popularity in the past few years. It showcases Audemars Piguet’s dedication to innovation and modern design—to pave the future design language of luxury wristwatches. 

Why no Rolex?

Rolex undeniably wears the crown, but its true expertise lies in marketing, brand exposure, and business acumen, with watchmaking coming in second. I don’t mean to say they make second-rate watches because they don’t. Their watches are bulletproof, timeless, and undeniably luxury icons. 

When we mention Rolex, we’re referring to a brand that produces over a million watches annually, with plans for even further expansion. In contrast, the esteemed Holy Trinity of watchmakers collectively manufacture just over 100,000 watches each year. 

Therefore, it’s obvious why Rolex isn’t formally included on this list. Rolex is king of the masses, but the crown still bows to the trinity.

Closing Thoughts

Having the means and allocation luck to acquire a timepiece from any of these three companies is truly a privilege. Patek Philippe stands as the quintessential choice for those drawn to heritage, formal wear, and a touch of understated elegance. 

Vacheron Constantin appeals to those who cherish tradition, impeccable finishing, and a refined aesthetic that effortlessly spans generations. 

Audemars Piguet, on the other hand, caters to individuals who admire bold style, contemporary designs, and a rebellious spirit in luxury watchmaking. No matter your choice or preference, these are three of the most distinguished, acclaimed, and finely crafted timepieces on earth. There are no losers here…

Spending thousands of dollars on a watch is something that has always been considered a luxury purchase by watch “civilians,” who, in actuality, make up the vast majority of consumers. 

However, If you’ve spent time reading watch reviews, watching videos, and exploring watch blogs, you shouldn’t count yourself as an ordinary consumer. Heck, the mere act of reading this article is an admission that you are a watch enthusiast or, at the very least, well on your way to becoming one. 

I’d like to formally welcome you to our ranks! Please enjoy obsessing over minute details such as lug-to-lug widths, power reserves, and screw-down crowns. I hope you like ramen because this hobby has become really expensive over the past two decades.

Only twenty years ago, one could buy a stainless steel Rolex Submariner without jumping through hula hoops for around $3,000. That price has more than tripled today, and with the seemingly unceasing waves of inflation, an important question bubbles to the surface: Can you purchase a quality luxury timepiece for under $3,000?

What to Look for in Luxury Watches Under $3,000

The answer to the above question is a resounding yes. There are a multitude of value propositions, some from larger, well-known brands and others from independents. When considering which timepiece to buy, it is always important to do independent research and seek guidance from authorized dealers like Exquisite Timepieces. But not all sub $3000 watches are made equally, so when purchasing a timepiece in this price range, it is important to consider the following criteria:

Watch Purpose

What are you using your watch for? I wouldn’t go diving with a dress watch that lacks lume and a screw-down crown. I also wouldn’t wear a chronograph with a tuxedo. When a watch costs thousands of dollars, it means that it has been purposefully built to meet specific standards.

Yes, today’s Avant-Garde fashion world is fluid, but when purchasing a watch for formal occasions, swimming, or with the flexibility to do both, it is important to consider the “style” of watch that best suits your needs.

Dive watches are extensively tested to ensure that they meet ISO standards. Chronographs offer a more complex level of timekeeping, used in automotive racing and aviation. So, I’ll ask you again… What are you using your watch for?

Brand Reputation

As with anything, branding can be a deciding factor for many people spending their hard-earned cash. When spending $3,000 or less, however, it is important to consider the specs, build quality, and overall package of a watch. It is much easier to “stretch your dollar” with a lesser-known independent brand than it would be for a much more established and well-known Maison.

At the end of the day, it is up to the individual to decide whether or not wearing a timepiece with pedigree supersedes wearing one without. Some people love having their watches recognized, while others prefer a more “stealth” approach to what they wear. There’s no incorrect answer here; for myself, I prefer getting the most out of my dollar, so having an inferior watch that is more “recognizable” doesn’t really scratch my itch.

Build Quality & Finishing

It took me a while to really understand the nuances of build quality and finishing. Most people don’t see the differences between a $200 watch when compared to a $2000 watch, but if you spend time with watches at various price points, it becomes easier to see.

Higher priced cases have greater variation of brushed and polished surfaces, with chamfered edges and greater dial complexity—applied indices, heat-treated blued hands, matching date wheels, and on and on. It becomes much more apparent with bracelets, too. A cheap bracelet is often clunky and jingly, whereas a more expensive bracelet conforms to the wrist and has a solid feel to it.

There is an intentionality in higher-end watches. They just feel right on the wrist, and wearing them is a reminder that horologists have put greater effort, materials, and research into the product you are wearing.

Movement

I know what you are thinking: quartz movements are cheap. Why would I spend $3000 on a watch with a quartz movement when I can purchase one from the mall for $70? Well, not all quartz movements are made equal. Some are accurate up to +/- 10 seconds per year, which is just about as accurate as a watch can be unless you throw a “smart” out in front of the word, but that’s neither here nor there.

I guess what I am trying to get at is this: an automatic or manual winding watch is not necessarily an indicator of quality or price. There are work-horse movements that are outsourced by watch manufacturers. These aren’t necessarily “bad” movements, as they are built to a specific standard, but they don’t elevate a watch alone. And the sub $3,000 price range is nearly devoid of in-house movements.

Still, some manufacturers manage to stretch their catalog’s value with proprietary (built specifically for them) or even in-house offerings. When considering an automatic or manual winding watch in this price range, look at accuracy, power reserve, and finishing—if an exhibition caseback is present—as this will be the best way to separate the mundane from the extraordinary.

Pricing & Availability

The following list of watches, curated by us here at Exquisite Timepieces, is available to purchase from authorized dealers. The best way to purchase a new watch is always from an authorized dealer, as you are ensuring the watch will arrive with a full warranty. You are also ensuring that your future watch will arrive unblemished while eliminating the chance of purchasing a fake watch, which is possible when shopping on online forums or the gray market.

Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer for many of the watches below, and you can view the full range on our website from the convenience of your home. Of course, if you find yourself in Naples, Florida, please stop by our showroom Monday through Saturday from 10AM-5PM.

12 Best Luxury Watches Under $3,000

It wasn’t easy, and of course, there are too many watches available to make the cut. Still, when considering the best 12 luxury watches at around or under $3,000, we’ve curated a list of options worthy of your attention. So, please stay a while, enjoy the read, and let us know if you have any questions about any of these timepieces! 

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.63.2)

The Spirit Zulu Time 39mm is the impetus for Longines’ resurgence within the watch community. Not only is this watch absolutely gorgeous—I dream about the green bezel version—but it is also built to a high standard of finishing. Also offered in a 42mm variation, the smaller 39mm Spirit Zulu Time is made from stainless steel and is 13.2mm thick, with a 46.7mm lug-to-lug. 

This is as wearable as a watch can be, folks, offering superb legibility and the ability to easily slip under a cuff. What’s more, unlike most of its competition, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm is a true GMT, allowing the hour hand to be independently adjusted. The movement within also parallels the excellence of the case. It offers a COSC-certified ETA movement, exclusive to the brand, with 72 hours of power reserve. 

If you are looking for one of the best bargains in the industry, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm retails at just a hair over $3,000 ($3,050 on the leather strap and $3,150 on the bracelet). I love this watch so much that I just couldn’t keep it off this list! 

Grand Seiko Quartz (ref. SBGP013)

Grand Seiko, from a horological standpoint, is the pride of Japan. And yet, for decades, people have scrunched their nose at the prospect of spending “Swiss watch money” for a fancy Seiko. Fools—all of them. To see a Grand Seiko in person is to witness the perfect amalgamation of art, design, and engineering. In recent years, Grand Seiko has pushed hard to gain ground in the United States, and they are doing so with great success.

This success, along with inflation, has put most of their offerings out of the $3,000 price range, but the SBGP013, at $2,600, is an extraordinary value proposition. At 40mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47mm and a case thickness of 10.6mm, this watch will fit like a glove for the vast majority of wrists out there, both small and large. Grand Seiko has also taken perfection to the next level with the introduction of the 9F85 quartz caliber, accurate to +/- 10 seconds per year!

The new caliber also has the ability to tweak the hour hand without stopping the seconds hand, ensuring precision timekeeping even when changing time zones. I can write about the merits of this timepiece for hours, but you really have to go see it in person to fully appreciate the Zaratsu polishing and superb overall package.

Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7720 4055-07 8 21 18)

What if I told you that you could purchase a vintage-inspired timepiece by an independent Swiss watchmaker with centuries of heritage, a 42mm stainless steel case, 100m of water resistance, a Swiss automatic movement, sapphire crystal, screw-down crown, and killer looks, all for $2,500? You probably wouldn’t believe me, and if you did, you would think that the watch was a limited release from an obscure microbrand (not that we dislike microbrands, of course!).

Oris is a name synonymous with Swiss watchmaking and yet the majority of their catalog has crept up in price over the past decade, many surpassing the $3,000 threshold. This modern iteration pays tribute to the original model, released in 1965, by retaining its vintage aesthetic and functional features while incorporating contemporary advancements in watchmaking technology.

Ball Engineer III Endurance 1917 GMT (ref. GM9100C-S2C-GYR)

Ball is a watchmaker that doesn’t receive the attention it rightfully deserves. Established in 1891 by Webb C. Ball in Cleveland, Ohio, Ball Watch Company has a rich history of producing high-quality timepieces. While it may not be as widely recognized as some of the larger Swiss watch brands, Ball has earned a solid reputation for its precise and durable watches, particularly in the field of railroad timekeeping.

The Ball Engineer III Endurance 1917 GMT is just about as handsome as a watch can be, with a gorgeous H-link bracelet, 41mm case, and superb finishing. The gray dial, adorned with 39 multi-colored micro gas tubes, dances with luminosity, ensuring visibility even in the darkest of nights. Equipped with a COSC-certified Ball in-house caliber RRM7337-C, this automatic movement ticks at 28,800 vibrations per hour, boasting a power reserve of 80 hours.

The red arrowhead hand gracefully glides across the 24-hour chapter ring, seamlessly indicating the second time zone. A screw-down crown and sapphire crystal are the quintessential finishing touches, elevating the timepiece to a robust daily wearer, suitable for all occasions and environments. Did I mention that all of this is available at an MSRP of $3,199?

Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Panda Automatic (ref. 86004A01)

Some watches elicit attention. Some watches evoke beauty. The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Panda Automatic—yes, that is certainly a mouthful!—does both of these and then some. The panda dial, broad arrowhead handset, hint of red on the crown-side subdial, and the vintage lume all come together to create one of the most aesthetically balanced chronographs out there for under $3,000.

With a stainless steel 38mm case and a 14.8mm case thickness (due to the automatic chronograph movement), this chronograph is pleasant to wear, even for those with smaller wrists. Though it looks gorgeous in pictures, one has to put it on the wrist to really enjoy the subtleties of its beauty, such as the marvelous double-dome sapphire crystal and etched steel caseback.

The Nivada Grenchen watch boasts nine versatile features, including a time-out stopwatch for elapsed time, a regular stopwatch for precise measurements, and specialized functions for doctors, divers, aviators, and yachters, all in one accurate, waterproof, and shock-resistant timepiece. That’s a lot of functionality for a watch with an MSRP of $2,195.

NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 38 (ref. 164)

Enter the Germans—known for engineering with a rich history of horology. The second half of NOMOS’ name comes from a small town in Saxony called Glashütte, where German watchmaking was born hundreds of years ago. This town has a legacy of producing some of the finest timepieces in the world, each bearing the mark of German excellence and craftsmanship.

The NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 38 (ref. 164) is possibly the most German-looking timepiece I can think of. I close my eyes and think of German watchmaking, and there it is, with its Bauhaus-era numerals, heat-treated blued hands, and narrow, segmented lugs. This is a handsome watch, which can be dressed up or down due to the 38mm case diameter.

The in-house Alpha caliber is manual winding with 43 hours of power reserve and one of the principal feats of engineering that allows for the watch’s head-scratching 6.8mm thickness. I know what you are thinking. Okay, that sounds great, but how much is it? I’m smiling as I type $2,330. It’s that good of a watch.

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver (ref. ZO3552)

I personally own a Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver, with the cream dial and stainless steel bezel—an ode to the 1953 release, which just so happened to make its announcement alongside Rolex and Blancpain at the 1953 Basel Fair. So yeah, this brand and collection have a lot of history and horological heritage.

The Zodiac Super Sea World Pro-Diver is a beefed-up and modern iteration of the original; this watch means business. It has a 42mm stainless steel case featuring 300m of water resistance and full ISO certification. It also has a ceramic bezel, sapphire glass crystal, and a very nice 7-link stainless steel bracelet.

And yes, I did mention this watch in the same breadth as Rolex and Blancpain, but it only costs $2,195. Not bad for membership to the “holy trinity” of Swiss dive watches. You heard that term here first!

Seiko Presage Limited Edition “Baby Snowflake” SJE073

Seiko’s Presage line is a step above their more entry-level models. With a focus on elegance and precision, Presage watches offer affordable luxury for those who appreciate both style and finishing in their timepieces. At $2,200, this is the cheapest watch from the Japanese Maison that offers the revered Zaratsu polishing.

The timepiece gets its nickname from the Grand Seiko Snowflake, which really elevated the brand to new heights when it was first released. You can lose yourself in the SJE073’s dial, an evocation of freshly fallen snow in a calm field. Applied indices, a robust stainless steel bracelet, and a very wearable 40mm case make this a package that is hard to resist.

This watch has been on my “must buy” list for some time, but alas, my wife will likely give me treatment colder than the dial if I bring home “another watch.” But you know what they say: ask for forgiveness, not permission (especially when it comes to adding a new timepiece that fits your budget).

DOXA Sub 300 Professional (ref. 821.10.351.10)

With its vintage design cues, orange dial, beads of rice bracelet, and COSC certification, the Doxa Sub 300 Professional is a dive watch for divers and enthusiasts alike. The robust disc-like case shape measures 42.5mm but actually wears much smaller due to its lugless design. The bracelet has a diver’s extension clasp for wetsuits, along with a generous taper for comfort.

38 hours of power reserve ensures that the watch will maintain its high accuracy for days on end.  Sometimes you need a watch that simultaneously “stands-out” and flies under the radar, and the Doxa Sub 300 Professional does just that. It’s the perfect congruence of bold and subdued, and its MSRP of $2490 demands your attention.

Tudor 1926 Black Dial 41mm (ref. M91650-0002)

The Tudor 1926 collection draws inspiration from the brand’s heritage and the classic designs of the 1920s. The collection’s name itself pays homage to the year when Tudor was established. This is an entry-level Tudor, but it really does punch far above its weight.

It has a signed screw-down crown, 100m of water resistance, a spectacular 7-link bracelet, and 38 hours of power reserve. The dial also has a “waffle” effect on it, which Tudor refers to as “embossed decoration,” along with domed Rhodium-plated hour markers and hands and a date at 3 o’clock.

The Goldilocks dimensions are 41mm in diameter and 9mm in thickness. They can be dressed up or down and fit virtually any wrist. Tudor also has one of the best warranties in the industry: 5 years. What are you waiting for? Yes, you can get a brand new Tudor for only $2,150, and this is as robust of a daily wearer as one can find from one of the most reputable entry-level luxury watchmakers around.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic 43mm (ref. WAZ2011.BA0842)

Growing up, those Tiger Woods Tag Heuer ads were really a genius marketing campaign. I didn’t play golf, nor did I watch it, but staring at those ads as I walked through the mall, I knew that I aspired to one day own a Tag Heuer watch. I still do. The Tag Heuer Formula 1 Automatic is striking, modern, and elegant—all at once.

It has a stainless steel 43mm case, a push-button brushed steel bracelet, and an automatic Swiss movement. A date complication at the 3 o’clock accentuates the sunray dial and applied indices.

Folks, this watch has an MSRP of $2,450, so yes, if brand recognition matters to you (and why shouldn’t it?), and if you’ve dreamed of a Tag Heuer for as long as I have (thanks, Tiger), then there should be nothing stopping you from pulling the trigger on the Tag Heuer Formula 1 Automatic.

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (ref. H38416711)

Yes, I am aware that both chronographs on this list are panda dials, but what could be better than a panda dial chronograph? The Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (pauses to take a breath) exudes quality. The watch is a modern reworking of a 1968 signature piece that offers a sporty but classic look.

Combining authentic 60s appeal with the exclusive H-31 automatic movement and a class-leading 60 hours of power reserve, its distinctive panda dial is a guaranteed eye-catcher. The chronograph has 100m of water resistance, a screw-down crown, sapphire crystal glass, and a very wearable case at 40mm in diameter and 14.45mm in thickness.

The watch is available on mesh steel or leather, with this specific reference coming with a supple cow-hide strap. With an MSRP of $2,295, this is a chronograph worthy of your consideration.

Closing Thoughts

As the unceasing winds of inflation continue to lighten our wallets, it is becoming harder and harder to find luxury timepieces at affordable prices. But the deals are still out there, and here at Exquisite Timepieces, we are happy to help you on your horological journey! 

Competition will continue to drive innovation, and as we enter a new golden age of horology, you can own a piece of history by choosing your next sub $3,000 entry level watch.

Like many watch collectors, I’m a sucker for a beautiful movement, but I find my friends’ patience is tested when we’re having dinner or drinks, and I keep staring through a crystal case back at a ticking movement. Some people are addicted to their screens; me – I’m a watch guy.

A watch with an “open heart” exposes its movement through an aperture, giving you a glimpse of the mechanical complexity and precision normally hidden by the dial. I’m not always a fan of this design, and it’s tough to get it just right. But when it’s done well, I like the sophisticated addition to the dial that an open heart creates, and there are some amazing examples out there that are worthy of closer attention.

About Open Heart Watches

Open heart watches have an aperture cut into their dial that reveals the escapement, a small part of the movement that converts rotational energy into lateral movement, or the balance wheel, which acts like a pendulum.

At their best, they combine beautiful dial design with a stunning glimpse of the mechanism behind the time and complications. They differ from skeletonized watches in that the dial exposes only a part of the movement; a skeletonized watch reveals as much of the inner workings of the watch as possible.

For me, the best examples of open heart watches marry an elegant, simply sophisticated dial to a small window into the movement. A busy dial, paired with an open heart, can make the watch hard to read – and it can look really gaudy if it’s overdone.

But when executed properly, using high-end movements that have been polished and decorated, there’s nothing like glancing at the dial and seeing the movement beating away.

History of Open Heart Watches

Open heart watches are a relatively recent development in horology, dating to Revue’s use of the name “Open Heart” in 1979. A his and hers pair, the men’s version was skeletonized; the women’s featured what we now call an open heart.

But it wasn’t until 1994, when Frederique Constant revealed its “Heart Beat” model, that this dial design became truly popular, spreading across the watchmaking world.

Since then, a wide array of brands and models feature an open heart design, made all the more complicated by the need to balance beauty and function.

12 Best Open Heart Watches

The best open heart watches work real magic, like sleight of hand in reverse, revealing exactly what’s in the magician’s hat. Instead of concealing the mechanical wonder that keeps the hands moving in perfect time with the movement of the sun, they give you a glimpse of what’s behind the curtain.

And like the magician’s assistant, the open heart needs to be eye-catching without being too revealing. It should draw your attention but not steal the show from the other elements of the dial and case. Let’s take a closer look at how the open heart design can be executed to perfection.

Chronoswiss Open Gear Flying Tourbillon Paraiba (ref. CH-3123-PABL)

Chronoswiss is known for its fascination with color, pattern, and aesthetic balance, and nowhere is that more evident than in the Open Gear Flying Tourbillon Paraiba.

Limited to just 15 pieces and priced at $44,400, this exquisite watch features a 44mm stainless steel case with both polished and vertically brushed finishes and an onion crown. Knurled details add to its elegance, but one glance at the dial is all I need to know that this watch is a Chronoswiss.

The multi-level dial’s bold textures and striking colors recall the blues and greens of prized Paraiba tourmalines, and as light plays across your wrist, the dial will change color and hue. The textures themselves are works of art: the Côtes de Genève and hand-guilloche details are breathtaking.

A subdial at the 12 tells the hour, while the minute hand rotates from the center of the dial. And, of course, at the 6, you’ll see the Flying Tourbillon, the heart of the manual-winding Caliber C.303 movement.

Frederique Constant Heart Beat Automatic 41mm (ref. FC-310B4NH6B)

In 1994, Frederique Constant’s Heart Beat Automatic brought the open heart concept out into the open, as it were, and there’s little question as to why once you see this watch. Its 41mm stainless steel case is an elegant combination of brushed and polished finishes that remind everyone that sophistication and simplicity go hand in hand.

And it sets off a matte black dial with an embossed globe that adds a touch of texture. Simple sword hands tell the hours, minutes, and seconds, and even the indexes are simple illuminated markings – nothing fancy.

But that’s as it should be because, at the 12, you’ll find the open heart of this watch, visible through a window centered under the double index at the top of the dial. In imitation of anatomy, the central jewel on which the balance wheel turns is just left of the center, right where a heart should be.

Inside, you’ll find the FC-310 movement, based on the Sellita SW300-1. Retailing for $2,295, Frederique Constant’s Heart Beat Automatic demonstrates how the open heart should be designed.

Seiko Presage Classic Semi-Skeleton Shiroiro (ref. SPB469)

Seiko’s Presage collection constantly threatens my bank account, and Seiko may as well have my credit card info stored for permanent use. Seiko’s Presage Classic Semi-Skeleton Shiroiro is understated, as you’d expect, offering casual luxury and the option for daily wear.

Priced at $1,125, it’s within reach of most enthusiasts, but it looks a lot more expensive than that. Shiroiro is Japanese for the color of unbleached textile, and this watch’s design is centered on the traditional use of that material in Japanese culture.

From the dial’s soft texture and delicate color to the rounded details of the case to the curved and recessed sundial and open heart, this watch is all about elegance and sophisticated design details. Familiarize yourself with the Presage Shiroiro, and you’ll catch the Seiko bug, too.

Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Open Gear Blue Spark Limited Edition (ref. CH-8756.1-BKBL)

The second limited-edition Chronoswiss I’d like to discuss today, the Flying Regulator Open Gear Blue Spark, is another masterpiece of design and precision, retailing for just $11,600. The 41mm case is machined from stainless steel and then coated with an electric-blue CVD finish.

The case and crown are identical in every other respect to the Open Gear Flying Tourbillon Paraiba. But the dial – wow! Amazing texture, incredible detail, and stunning design.

As you’d expect from Chronoswiss, it’s a multi-level affair: the bottom layer is hand-guilloched, while the top features screwed-on skeletonized train-wheel bridges for the hours and seconds displays. The seconds display – with an amazing hand design – reveals the open heart of the Flying Regulator. The minute hand rotates from the center, balanced by the seconds and hours displayed above and below.

Seiko Presage Style ’60s (ref. SSA425)

Seiko’s Presage collection tends to be dressy, but the mid-century looks of the Style ‘60s capture the essence of Sean Connery’s Bond in You Only Live Twice: elegant, refined, and yet incredibly capable.

An undeniably homage to the Seiko Crown Chronograph from 1964, the Style ‘60s has a brushed 40.8mm stainless case on which a black bezel rides. Gold markers on that ebon ring add a sporty flair, transforming what would otherwise be a purely dress watch into something more – something ready for wherever the evening might take you.

The dial design is simple and elegant: black with silver and gold details. The hands are illuminated, and at the 9 and 10:30, slightly overlapping, you’ll find a 24H compilation and the aperture revealing the heart of the mechanical Caliber 4R39 movement. At just $460, this watch is a steal!

Frederique Constant Heart Beat Moonphase Date 40mm (ref. FC-335MCNW4P26)

You’ll remember that I praised the elegant application of an open heart on a sophisticated dial. Is it any surprise that Frederique Constant gets this just right? Their Heart Beat Moonphase Date model is everything a dress watch should be and then some.

The refined, simple 40mm case stands out behind a detailed dial that gets all the little things right. From the multiple rings delineated by carefully applied textures to the Clous de Paris guilloché center to the Roman numeral hours and outer date complication, this watch is all class.

At the 12, you’ll find the open heart – and yes, the central jewel on which it turns is ever so slightly left of center. Below that, at the 6, Frederique Constant has placed a moonphase window that adds visual interest without subtracting from the elegance of this timepiece. Priced at $1,995, this watch punches well above that price point on the wrist.

Orient Bambino Open Heart (ref. RA-AG0002S10A)

Orient’s Bambino Open Heart demonstrates that luxury needn’t break your budget. With a 40mm stainless case featuring an elegant pairing of brushed and polished finishes and a pure white dial that enhances the beauty of the polished hands, indexes, and yes, even the escapement bridge visible just a touch south of the 9, this watch channels old-money understatement.

Everything about the Bambino Open Heart is dialed-in, polished, and refined, down to the onion crown and brown croc-embossed strap. If you appreciate simple refinement and unadorned luxury – the look that says wealth rather than money – the Orient Bambino Open Heart is perfect for you at an unbelievable $225.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart 40mm Black Dial (ref. H32565735)

If you’re the kind of guy who just oozes cool, a modern-day Miles Davis, so to speak, the Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart can help you chill a room and smooth your vibe like careful aging polishes a good whiskey.

The sophisticated stainless case holds a dial that refuses to be nailed down as either open heart or skeletonized – giving free play to the beating movement it reveals. Against a black-as-night dial adorned with funky Arabic numerals at the 3, 6, 9, and 12, as well as polished hour, minute, and second indexes, the open aperture makes a statement that can’t help but be heard.

The carefully polished and engraved H-10 automatic movement is a show-stopping background to the dial. Effortlessly cool always stylish, the Jazzmaster Open Heart will only set you back $995.

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic Open Heart (ref. T127.407.11.041.01)

For fans of open heart designs, Tissot offers the Gentleman Powermatic Open Heart, a watch that’s perfect for daily wear, white-collar work, and casual evenings with friends. The key to that versatility is refined simplicity. The 40mm case combines brushed and polished surfaces, harmonizing with a polished bezel that enhances the beauty of the deep blue dial.

Polished silver-tone hands, indexes, and minute and second markers really stand out against this dark color, and the open heart—really two open hearts slightly overlapping—gives you a glimpse of the automatic caliber 80.601 movement. Paired with a brushed and polished bracelet, the Tissot Gentleman Powermatic Open Heart takes work and play seriously and is available for $895.

Bulova Classic Automatic Open Heart (ref. 96A201)

It’s not easy to make a watch that is both elegant and sporty, perfectly wearable when you’re in a suit, and just as fitting when you’re dressed casually and just hanging out with friends. But Bulova gets that balance perfect with its Classic Automatic Open Heart.

A 41mm matte stainless case encloses a soft black dial punctuated by crimson lines that divide the dial into quarters. Simple, polished hands mark the time against elegant indexes, and of course, you’ll see the beating heart of the automatic movement.

That balance of red and silver against a dial as soft and dark as fine velvet allows this watch to move seamlessly with you, wherever you are, however you’re dressed. Available for $499, the Bulova Classic Automatic Open Heart is always whatever your style needs it to be.

Rado Centrix Automatic Open Heart (ref. R30178152)

Rado’s Centrix Automatic Open Heart is a study in contrasts, pairing a ceramic brown so dark it looks almost black with polished stainless – and a polished and decorated movement. Certainly closer to a skeletonized design than an open heart, the angular dial is barely there, revealing more of the in-house automatic movement than it covers.

Simple lance hands tell the time, matched by simple indexes at the edges of the dial. We don’t need watches to keep track of the time these days, and timepieces are statements more than necessities, jewelry rather than tools.

That’s certainly true of the Rado Centrix Automatic Open Heart, and legibility has been sacrificed for a closer look at the movement. That said, the result is handsome, elegant, and eye-catching. And for the fashion-forward, this $2,495 watch will turn heads, just as it should.

Zenith Chronomaster Open El Primero (ref. 03.3300.3604/69.M3300)

Zenith’s Chronomaster Open El Primero is a greatly improved and updated version of the original Chronomaster Open, down-sizing the case to more manageable proportions and – to me, at least – upgrading the aesthetic appeal of this watch.

This new Open El Primero retails for $10,300, and every penny is well spent if you like open heart watches. The new case measures 39.5mm, and it sports both brushed and polished finishes. The bezel is slim and highly polished, a bit more than some would want on a chronograph that’s designed for a sporty appearance.

The matte silver dial shows off tri-color counters, as well as a transparent counter for the running seconds. And not one, but three, open heart apertures overlap from the 7 to the 10. The Caliber 3600 chronograph rotates its hand around the chronometer ring 10 times a second – an impressive feat of design and engineering – adding to the horological street cred this watch undoubtedly deserves.

Conclusion

Open heart watches may not be for everyone, and there are certainly poorly executed examples aplenty. But when manufactured by a company with the horological chops to design them well, they are a stunning testament to the watchmaker’s art.

And for those who just can’t get enough of the open heart design, the good news is that many excellent brands produce them, offering a wealth of choices for the discerning buyer.