Category: Watch Reviews

Old heads may swear pens are the only thing they know Montblanc excels at. While that’s true for an out-of-touch millennial or Baby Boomer, the reality is the opposite. Once a luxury stationery and leather goods brand, Montblanc inherited over 150 years of watchmaking experience following a smart acquisition of Minerva. 

And like it or not, Montblanc men’s watches hold their own against big players in the industry like Jaeger-LeCoultre, and IWC Schaffhausen.

So, if you’re here to confirm your doubts about Montblanc as a watchmaker, the short answer is you’ll be disappointed. A closer look at Montblanc’s collection reveals a dozen sporty, casual, conceptual, and complicated watches at almost unbeatable prices. 

But first, I’ll hit the ground running with a snippet of how a fountain pen maker became an underappreciated horologist. 

Montblanc Watches: How It Started

The Montblanc legacy started way back in 1906 when August Eberstein developed a range of fountain pens in Berlin, Germany. While they’re currently based in Hamburg, the German brand is a part of the Swiss conglomerate Richemont Group, which includes brands like Cartier and Baume & Mercier. However, I’ll spare you the unnecessary details and focus on MB’s history as a watchmaker.  

Interestingly, Montblanc only recently ventured into watchmaking in 1997 after acquiring Minerva. Now, the techniques and craftsmanship of the Victorian-era Swiss watchmaker live through Montblanc watches. Aside from being respectable watchmakers for the military, they were former official timekeepers of the Olympic Ski Events and leading producers of handmade movements. 

So when you think of Montblanc as a watchmaker, think of the Minerva heritage and the Institut Minerva de Recherche en Haute Horlogerie. The latter is an institution for “preserving and cultivating” old precision timekeeping techniques and research for innovative technologies.  

Today, Montblanc is a force to reckon with among entry-level and, perhaps, mid-level luxury watch brands. So whether you picture a pen manufacturer when the name comes to mind, they’re not pushovers when it comes to watchmaking.

What’s The Status of Montblanc Watches Today?

What I said earlier stands; Montblanc isn’t a pushover and is more than a leading pen maker. And anyone who thinks otherwise is either biased, unacquainted, or resourceful enough to easily afford higher-end luxury.

Agreed, MB can be inseparable from the crowd when you stick to their entry-level models. But you start to see the excellence in craftsmanship when you go higher up, between $2000 to $15,000 – considerably still a moderate price to pay. 

I’ll emphasize craftsmanship to back Montblanc as a formidable watchmaker. The German luxury brand has watches, particularly dressy models, that make some popular brands look overpriced. They exude the finishing of a master artisan, in-house movements (mostly Selita-based), and a trademark Sfumato leather making.

Some notable mentions are the Vasco da Gama Moonphase and Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum, which are excellent watches that would contend with any timepiece, even from the Holy Trinity. Aside from being capable of a side-by-side comparison for engineering prowess, Montblanc watches offer a sizable bang for your buck.

For instance, the Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie Vasco Da Gama Moonphase in red gold, at around $13000, is almost half the price of the JLC Master Calendar. And they are evenly matched in functionality, looks, and craftsmanship. The only edge the JLC offers is brand recognition and, consequently, better resale value.  

The Best Montblanc Watches

Now that we’ve established that Montblanc watches are high-quality and affordable, here are some of the best models for men. 

1. Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date (ref. MB129371)

Price estimate: $3,600

This is Montblanc’s first diving watch, and it’s also themed after the Mer de Glace “Sea of Ice”, a massive glacier in the Mont-Blanc Massif. It’s interesting to have a Diver’s watch with a cool backstory. Better yet, it’s built with exceptional quality and attention to detail.

The most prominent feature is its glacier pattern in honor of the model name, Iced Sea and Merce de Sea. This glacial texture is achieved using an ancient technique called Gratte Boise. It also has an artistic engraved case back and crown. It’s a good example of Montblanc’s interest in preserving the old ways of watchmaking and infusing them with modern technology.

The Iced Sea is a 40mm stainless steel diving watch that can take a beating for generations. The dial has a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel and 300 meters of water resistance to bring it up to and beyond diving standards.    

2. Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph (ref. MB126098

This Montblanc is more than any other 43mm chronograph you’ve ever seen. It’s a work of art that’s ridiculously affordable for the level of engineering and artistry that goes into it. And it preserves Montblanc’s legacy of protecting the precious history of watchmaking.

As you may have deduced from the name, it’s a homage to Nicolas Rieussec – a French watchmaker who invented the inking chronograph in 1821 and King Phillipe’s official watchmaker. 

Wondering what an inking chronograph is? It’s simply a chronograph that prints elapsed time on the dial with ink. This Star Legacy has an equally well-engineered automatic chronograph movement, the caliber MB R200 with 72 hours of power reserve. It has a column wheel and counters with rotating discs that give off a 3D effect. 

The blue dial also has a unique guilloche pattern that catches the light and turns heads. It’s then coupled with a Sfumato alligator strap that completes its classy look as a dress watch. If you want a dressy Montblanc, Jaeger-LeCouture alternative, or a statement watch, the Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec is a top contender for men.      

3. Montblanc Heritage Automatic Day & Date (ref. MB119947)

Price estimate: $2,700

Does “the President” ring a bell? This is the nickname of Rolex’s famed Day Date watch, and the Heritage Automatic Day & Date gives it a run for its money. But the Heritage has a style of its own, and it’s not just some cheap replica. Actually, it’s a tribute to Minerva’s classic dress watches from the ’40s and ’50s. 

The case is consistent with the vintage design of a seamless round frame and teethed crown in a 39mm case. Combined with the fully-polished finish and silvery white dial, this watch will complete a formal look for every man. 

Also, the combination of the hour marker and minute graduation inside the case and day and date windows give this watch a cool, refined, yet, classy appearance. More specifically, I fancy how the blue syringe seconds hand extends to the five-minute graduation.

It’s coupled with a grey Sfumato alligator leather strap that gives it a unique look and is comfortable to wear. Additionally, it’s powered by an in-house caliber concealed behind the solid case back with a Minerva Manufacture” engraving. Priced at a little over $2000, you’ll be getting plenty of luxury and comfort for the Heritage Day Date. 

4. Montblanc Tradition Automatic Date (ref. MB127770)

Price estimate: $2,115

Another masterpiece from Montblanc for men seeking casual luxury and style for occasions. It’s a classic stainless steel watch with a round case and the signature Montblanc straight lugs I’ve come to love. It’s 40mm across the case and has a unique 5-link stainless steel bracelet that exudes a bold and authentic aura. 

The dial is a beauty. It’s an infusion of matching silver-white with Roman numerals and baton hour markers, and a date window at 3 o’clock. Similar to the Heritage Day Date, it has an internal bezel, except this time, it’s a 15-minute graduation and railway minute design for indexes. And you can’t go wrong with the ultra-slim hands toning down the bold impression of the dial and bracelet. 

This Tradition Automatic uses an in-house MB 24.17 automatic caliber with a 38-hour reserve. Compared to similar models from name brands, like the Oris Artelier Automatic, Tissot Tradition Automatic, and even the Longines Master L2.357.4.08.6, the MB holds its own. 

And some may say it has a dressy edge with the Roman numerals on the dial. And, of course, it’s a slightly more economical timepiece, also offering a leather option if you want a more corporate style. Or the 36mm case if you’re more reserved. 

But I’ll admit the 2500-dollar Longines Master is enticing when you consider the diamond indexes and color options. All in all, Montblanc’s Traditional Automatic is a top-rated luxury watch any serious watch lover can appreciate for engineering, value, and beauty. 

5. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere (ref. MB119286)

Price estimate: $6,800

If you checked out the MB Vasco Da Gama from earlier, you’d understand Montblanc is a fan of exploratory watches. The type an ordinary fountain pen maker would struggle to idealize, much less perfect in production. Yet, the folks at Montblanc made the 1858 Geosphere as a tribute to mountaineers braving the Seven Summit Challenge – climbing the tallest mountains across the seven continents.

This is a befitting watch for Montblanc’s heritage since the brand’s name means “massif” or “principal mountain mass”. So it was no surprise extra attention was paid to detail, and it was released as a celebration of Minerva’s 160th anniversary. 

The 1858 Geosphere dial has two globes with a red dot signifying the location of each summit around the world. It also has a second timezone at 9 o’clock and a knurled ceramic bezel doubling as a compass. Talk about a new world timer. 

The structure is no less impressive. It’s a 42mm stainless steel case, black dial, and aged Sfumato calf leather for class and comfort. The 1858 Geosphere is also available in Nato and Bund straps for ultimate wearability. 

6. Montblanc Heritage GMT (ref. MB119950)

Price estimate: $3,300

By far the dressiest GMT watch you’ll come across, Montblanc gives travelers a timepiece to slay on the road. While I love the attention complicated watches like GMTs bring, I’m a simple man at heart. The MB Heritage GMT ticks all the right boxes with this simple design.

Don’t let the uncharacteristic round case with straight lugs fool you. It’s durable and just fine without a bezel. The salmon dial has a double entendre appeal (vintage and eye-catching) with three different layers of finish. 

The wood grain finish for the hands (inner layer), guilloche pattern for the 12-hour marker (center), and clear finish for the minute and 24-hour marker (outer ring) make the dial beautiful, readable, and shows thoughtful craftsmanship. 

This 40mm two-timezone Montblanc is water-resistant to 50 meters and has an automatic MB24.50 caliber with 42 hours of power reserve. Talk about a simple, stylish, yet powerful, GMT watch at an affordable price.  

7. Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H (ref. MB126007)

Price estimate: $3,300

With this “piece of art,” you’d recognize that the “1858” collection is MB’s dedication to complicated watches. It’s strictly a collector’s watch for enthusiasts who fancy the addition of a conceptual one-handed watch to their collectibles. It’s a beautiful 1858-themed watch with stainless steel case and an attractive patina-like bronze bezel. 

The bezel ages fine even with wear as the patina blooms, giving it the intended 19th-century feel. But that’s not the whole of the 19th-century story with this watch. What’s special about the Automatic 24h is also the unreal fact that it’s unable to keep time accurately. 

On the beautiful compass-like dial is a 24-hour marker with even gradations of 2-24 and a black map background. Interestingly there are compass indicators on the outer bezel, although I’m uncertain about their accuracy. What’s certain, though, is the bright red hand pointing to the rail tracks is the only way to tell the time – albeit accurate to only +/- 15 minutes. 

But I like the adventurous side to it; the first 12th hour of the day starts on the west, and the rest of the day is covered within the 24th hour on the east side of the dial. 

So how you tell the time is down to tracking the four minutes within the hour, leaving you accurate to only 15-minute intervals on the hour. Fun fact: the dial comes alive at night to reveal a map of the Northern Hemisphere and the Meridian lines. 

Montblanc wraps the bronze case in their much-hyped vintage textile strap from Julien Faure – a strap manufacturer that uses the same antique looms his forefathers used 150 years ago. 

While this is more of MB’s conceptual timepieces, I find it overpriced for the concept of feeling an alpine adventure and inaccurate timekeeping era. But I can’t deny it’s the perfect watch to pass down generations.      

8. Montblanc Star Legacy Automatic Date 39 (ref. MB118517)

Price estimate: $2,650

Now we’re back in the present with another Montblanc beautiful dress watch – the Star Legacy Date 39. This 39mm stainless steel piece is a refresher from the complicated 1858 Automatic 24h, thanks to its easy-to-read Arabic Breguet numerals and uncluttered slate gray dial.  

The dial looks clean, but a closer look reveals the attention to detail of a skilled craftsman on the guilloche patterns. It’s the type of watch face that just seems to always get the attention of co-workers and friends. It’s classy and familiar, yet stands out from what you’ll see anywhere else.

Coupling it with MB’s sfumato alligator leather strap confirms its ultimate dress appeal. If you’re unfamiliar with the sfumato technique, it’s a technique from way back in Leonardo Da Vinci’s era that basically gives paintings, in this case, the leather strap, a smoky, faded, but stylish appearance like it aged like fine wine. Without a doubt, the Star Legacy 39mm is one timepiece for a businessman or classy professional to start a dress watch collection.

9. Montblanc 1858 Automatic Date 0 Oxygen The 8000 (ref. MB130984)

Price estimate: $3,180

In support of Montblanc’s intricate support for mountaineers for obvious reasons, I introduce the Date 0 Oxygen. The artisans and engineers constructed this sporty watch “devoid of oxygen” – airtight – to prevent fogging at high altitudes. Not to mention a spectacular dial to brave cold nights in the wild or rock every day.

The 8000 comes with a black glacier-patterned dial with Montblanc’s sfumato technique finishing, giving it a modern and vintage look. The watch face is a true work of art. In addition to the iced-out background, the 8000 has an easy-to-read dial with large-font Arabic numerals and illuminated cardinal points on the bezel.

It has a black bezel and boxy lugs that are sporty compared to the straight lugs of a typical Montblanc. But don’t write it off as a dress watch just yet; it’s leaf hour hands. Plus, it has an interchangeable bracelet so you can swap it for a leather strap.   

The Date 0 Oxygen 8000 runs on the powerful MB21.17 we’ve seen in the previous Montblanc models so far. It’s concealed in the closed case back with a “Spirit of Explorations” engraving as an honor to the brave who explore in this watch. Just remember, it may be 0 Oxygen, but it’s only water resistant to 100 meters. 

10. Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar (ref. MB119955)

Price estimate: $6,110

The Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar is one of the more complicated models from the German luxury brand. But it keeps its tradition of making simple, round, and dressy watches with a nod to Minerva’s heritage from the 19th century.

As you can probably tell, the Star Legacy has a calendar function or moon phase, but also day, date, month, and hour running on the MB 29.12 caliber. I can’t help but fantasize about how it holds up against heavyweights like the Breguet Classique Calendrier 7337 and Blancpain Quantieme Complet because they share some similarities in style. The Star Legacy has the round pocket watch shape not only for its Minerva heritage and like top competitors with the moon phase complication. 

Its dial is a stunning work of artistry despite having a seemingly simple white background. But the masterful artisans at Le Locle made some magic drilling the Montblanc exploding star guilloche front and center. And it’s encircled by the days of the week and the day and month window below the Montblanc logo.

In addition, black Roman numerals and dotted minute markers on the silvery-white dial give the Star Legacy a crisp and readable profile. The red crescent moon and blue hour and minute hands contrast so perfectly that it’s even easy for a horology newbie to get the concept. 

Couple this beautiful dial with a 42mm polished stainless steel case and Sfumato alligator leather; you get a casual and formal timepiece. Despite being one of the more pricey models, the Star Legacy calendar strikes a pretty good bargain for design and functionality at its price.  

11. Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph (ref. MB117836)

Price estimate: $5,602

The 1858 collection has got to be as iconic to Montblanc as the Submariner or Datejust is to Rolex. Before you get axes out, this is an assumption based on the number of impressive models and not judging by popularity. The Automatic Chronograph is a vintage beauty that keeps giving from simplicity, and contemporary fashion, to functionality. And the magnetic charm is from nothing over the top.

The watch has the typical round and polished case we’ve come to expect from Montblanc but with the added touch of a satin finish to the 42mm stainless steel contraption. Enter the dial; you’ll notice the faded but appealing old-school aesthetics of the leaf hands, markers, and sub counters on the black backdrop. 

And for a new look to the entire brand, MB introduces bi-pushers to Automatic Chronograph. Another change from the usual is its MB25.11 caliber with a 48-hour power reserve and 27 jewels. 

Although not uncommon in today’s luxury watch world, the calf leather strap is what catches my fancy. The raw look and bright contrast of the cognac strap give the timepiece a bold and versatile style that would pass for a house or beach party, dinner, or running errands. 

12. Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar (ref. MB119925)

Price estimate: $21,000

Last but not least is the latest version of what was once the most affordable luxury perpetual calendar watch on the market. Although this new upgrade is not on the cheap side, it comes with a bigger case, less clutter and more harmony on the dial, and stronger movement. 

The Heritage Perpetual Calendar is powered by what Montblanc calls the “new manufacture” 29 caliber MB29.22. For folks unfamiliar with the perpetual calendar function, it’s simply a calendar that can be adjusted to read accurate days of the week from the past or future. Hence the MB29.22 reads hours, days, months, leap years, and moon phases accurately with a 48-hour power source.  

However, it’s not these features that are intriguing, but the engineering prowess to present them tastefully on the silvery white dial. The Star Legacy’s dial carries Montblanc’s signature multi-level textured finish that, while simple, exudes extreme attention to detail and makes the functions extra legible. This is a reminder that the Heritage Perpetual calendar also has a second timezone function, which is impressive. 

And to top it off, the watch fits in a slim 12mm stainless steel case thanks to the efficiency of engineering on the MB29.22. Pairing the Heritage Perpetual Calendar with Montblanc’s trademark sfumato leather strap was an obvious genius.

You’ll be adding a classy weekend or daily dress watch that commands respect in any room to your collection. And it has a seemingly positive resale value. It debuted at $15000 during its release at SIHH 2019 but now costs over $20000. 

Montblanc Watches: The Brand for Classic Men

Montblanc is the ultimate men’s luxury watch brand for classic men and even modern-day professional women. I don’t say this because they make exceptional watches, but the possibility of staying loyal to one brand for your luxury accessories.

At least for me, I enjoy having a brand I can trust to deliver quality, taste, and a good price for several items. It saves me the stress of starting a new customer journey of window shopping around to find a fit. 

And Montblanc caters to a niche of folks who want fashionable and sophisticated watches, briefcases, bracelets, wallets, and fountain pens for the traditional man. Overall, the German luxury watch manufacturer makes timepieces a beginner or hardcore enthusiast that values simplicity, style, and reasonable pricing would appreciate.

The Frazier and Ali of the watch world are as similar as their fisticuffs counterparts. Both are Swiss. Both exceed a centurion history. And both are considered foundationary members of an elite class of culture. Audemars Piguet, colloquially referred to as ‘AP’, is vastly sought after today for its Royal Oak series of luxury sports watches.

At the same time, Patek preens classic—catered to privy favor at Saville Rowe, expressing the very best of haute-horology. Whether you’ve heard of one, both, or neither, you and I are going to reflect on the reverence of these titanic icons, the brands beyond their history, and their ability to enamor modernity.

About Audemars Piguet Watches

Congruent with the uninspired naming strategy of 19th-century establishments, Audemars Piguet was named after its founders—Jules Louis Audemars & Edward August Piguet. From the get-go, it’s a rather unlikely story filled with all the romance you’d expect from a pair of pedants.

Once upon a time, future entrepreneurs of an industry juggernaut were childhood friends, infatuated with nature’s most valuable commodity—time. Jules contrived an interest in clock manufacture (as it was previously called) from his father’s intrigue deep within the heavenly scapes of Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux.

His specialties resided in the painstaking manufacture of handcrafted movements—from their mechanical development to their final fittings within a case. Edward Piguet’s youthful aspirations and parental attention aren’t as similarly documented as his partnered friend. What we do know is that the evolutions of his interest grew to fill the vacancies in Jules’ expertise.

Notably, much of Piguet’s watchmaking contributions were in systems regulation. If you’re not sure what that means, think of the process by which a mechanical movement keeps time in check. I’ll likely be eviscerated for saying this, but true vintage AP—I’m talking the period between their 1875 inception and the Quartz Crisis—was a rather mundane time for the brand.

Unlike Rolex, whose claim to fame took the form of tool-oriented watches and a value proposition that spoke to more than the elite class— AP didn’t have a USP they could lean on. That’s not to say that they didn’t have an impact on the industry because they absolutely did. You can thank Audemars Piguet for the complications like the jumping hour and design innovations like the vastly popular skeleton watch.

If it weren’t for a man of consequence, eponymous for horology’s greatest designs taken on AP as a client, you’d never see the name touted as a must-have holy grail in every watch collector’s toy box. Who was the man? Gerald Genta. What came of his tasked expertise? A series of watches so successful it would become one of the most sought-after—and copied—designs in the world. But more on that later. 

About Patek Philippe Watches

You’ll be pleased to hear that while Audemars Piguet is globally recognized by its initials—nobody calls Patek Philippe ‘PP’. Today, Patek Philippe is like a classified document. You’ll be hard-strung to get your hands on one unless you’re on a need-to-know basis. And Patek has made it abundantly clear they need to know. 

The parallels between its aforementioned competition follow a similar timeline, with similar people. But their start didn’t come together as smoothly as it did in AP’s mountainous birthplace. To start, it may have been a Swiss outfit but the rough outline of what would later become Patek Philippe started as a Polish partnership between watchmakers Antoni Patek and Franciszek Czapek, forming Patek’s first venture—Patek, Czapek & Cie in 1831. 

During their six-year stint, their products reflected the timekeeping of the era—handheld pocket-watches often slung passively abreast. Riddled by disagreement, though, the relationship didn’t last long, eventually dissolving in 1845. Funnily enough, the situation gallicized for both men. Franciszek literally changed his name to Francois while Patek renewed his partnership with a Frenchman — the now suffixed Philippe. 

Where Audemars Piguet had a rather ineffectual early career, Patek Philippe’s illustrious career garnered attention as quickly as it began. Within the same year of its 1851 incorporation, Queen Victoria acquired her first Patek at the Great Exhibition of London and soon after directly purchased a piece uniquely studded in more than your average bust down — talk about a glowing recommendation for a new brand, eh? Following the Queen’s interest, Patek Philippe became an internationally renowned jeweler and timekeeper for royalty and the political elite. 

They were astute innovators enamored mostly by astronomical complications, introducing a myriad of firsts like their 1925 adaptation of the perpetual calendar in a wristwatch and the first movement with an annual calendar in 1996. 

While their classic watches required no introduction, by the time the seventies rolled around, the watch world noticed a cultural shift in what people wanted out of a timepiece. Execs at Patek didn’t need a crystal ball to see that the ballroom drapes were coming down, and a change of scenery was key to the brand’s godly grip on the industry. 

Six years after Gerald Genta came up with the Royal Oak for AP, the young accoladed designer answered the call to produce an exquisite timepiece with the reverence of Patek Philippe without the day-to-day shortcomings of a dress watch. What followed would directly compete with AP’s Royal Oak and propel Patek Philippe into another stratosphere in the new millennium.

Goliath VS Goliath: The Battle of Two Iconic Swiss Watch Brands

Bitter rivals or titans within their own class? Each is known for its own segment and is successful in its pushes to excel in areas beyond its name. What do I mean? Well, it’s no secret AP likes their sports watches, but they’re not afraid to serve up some Hors d’oeuvres.

On the flip side, Pateks often reside under tailored cuffs at some secret gathering that neither you nor I have any clue about. And yet the Nautilus and Aquanaut are a common trope of the successful athlete in jean jackets and Air Force Ones. 

Now I’ve gone on and on about their apparent similarities, but when the rubber meets the road, there are some differences. The ex-business analyst in me has been waiting to say this for some time— let’s get some competitive analysis in and see who’s who.

Brand Recognition

Excluding Vacheron Constantin, we’re looking at the faces of horology’s Holy Trinity, so brand recognition really comes down to who you ask. In the upper echelons of society, where gray-haired cigar smokers are commonplace, you’d find a leaning towards Patek.

The next generation of watch enthusiasts is unlikely to agree, melding with the youthful exuberance of AP’s Royal Oak collection a touch more. Sometimes it’s generational, and sometimes it’s just a matter of taste. As my sensibilities start to take on a greater measure of calm, I’d put Patek Philippe on top, but we’re splitting hairs at this point. 

Model Variety

Despite my compulsion for watches, my genetic makeup mostly constitutes gasoline, rubber, and some missing bolts. My current love interest—Porsche—used to be the bane of my intensely opinionated childhood existence.

I remember flicking through their catalogs wondering why there were dozens of iterations of 911 with stark price changes, that—aside from swathes of color palettes—looked the same as the last. It wasn’t until I immersed myself in Stuttgart’s philosophy of the perfect sports car that I came to understand the subtleties of dissimilarity. 

The umbrella variety of Patek Philippe is much like Porsche. The catalog opens up with three dress watches; the Complications, the Grand Complications, and the Calatrava, each of which—like the rest—are dizzyingly multifarious.

Tucked into the middle are two more effeminate options which co-opt different takes on the rectangle. Finishing off the range are three sports watches that—the Nautilus, the Aquanaut, and the Twenty~4—get decidedly more usable and, for some reason, more affordable as a result. 

Audemars Piguet prefers expanding the catalog within a small selection of models rather than spilling more menu derivations than an Olive Garden menu. You’ve got three overarching Royal Oak series (which I’ve summarized as bluntly as possible):

• Royal Oak: For the small wrist.
• Royal Oak Offshore: For the big wrist.
• Royal Oak Concept: For the bold wrist.

And if you’re not an AP buyer just for the hype train, there’s the Code 11:59. If you can forgive the name for sounding like a G-Shock for the kindergarten graduate, it’s a well-conceptualized dress watch without the uppity attitude of A. Lange & Söhne’s astute showcase.

Personally, they don’t come close to Patek’s Calatrava unless you’re dipping your feet in the big boy stuff. I’m talking Code 11:59 Perpetual, which might as well be a looking glass into space or some of their open-worked options.

Build Quality & Durability

Neither brand here is stranger to the epitome of watchmaking materials and the scrutiny by which those materials are put together. Depending on the model, some of the more precious materials are left out. Patek omits yellow gold, ceramic, and titanium from its Nautilus range, while the endless alternates out of the Royal Oak series add them on top of their standard steel and white gold offerings. 

Really though, it’s an appeasement to brand identity more than it is a representation of who pays more attention to build quality. We’re talking Rolls-Royce and Bentley here. No corners are cut in the mission to produce the most luxurious wristwear on earth. 

Movements

If we’re talking sports watches, the Patek has to arrest superiority to its competition. The 324C Calibre in the uncomplicated variations of the Nautilus is okay—not a description you expect from a watch that costs as much as a deposit on a house.

You get 45 hours of power reserve, which isn’t much to boast about, and the movement doesn’t hack seconds. Tell someone specs like that without mentioning the Patek Philippe name, and most people are likely to guess a machine-made Miyota special for the average Joe. 

Free of complications, excluding your bog standard date, the Royal Oak’s recently revised 50-year-old automatic movement—calibre 2121, now 7121, fairs a bit better. You’ve got more jewels at 40, more power reserve at 60 hours, and, thankfully, some hacking seconds.

If you’ve gone this far with no idea what it is, it’s basically a way to stop the entire movement when you pull the crown out to adjust the time. It’s an extra layer of precision to know the seconds stop right where you left ’em rather than continuing on as if nothing ever happened.

Price, Resale & Rarity

Sneaking into either brand at retail will require you to have one of two things and a non-negotiable prerequisite of near-limitless money. Yeah, if you were thinking having a lot of money was it—at this level, it’s not that simple. At this level, there’s a relationship requirement with either your dealer or the brand themselves. 

You can’t buy a watch fit for royalty if nobody knows your name. Or at least that’s what the dealer seems to dictate. Aside from a relationship, you’ll also need a collection of some special items if you want an allocation for some special pieces. Such is the way the elite world goes.

Audemars Piguet vs Patek Philippe Watches: Top Models Comparison 

Okay, so now that we’ve got a baseline on Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, I’d say we move on from comparing apples to oranges to watches that deserve to fight each other. I’m going to take a look at each model from AP and Patek as a whole because, like I said, there are like 30 variations of each, and comparing all of them to the other is going to take another eon. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak vs Patek Philippe Nautilus

In my infancy as a watch collector (pre-musings of the AP catalog), I thought the Bulgvri Octo was going to be the only thing with 8 sides to drag my wallet to hell. Even while I was up to speed with haute-horology, my dollar store eyes never figured the Nautilus was anything more than an oval with rather pronounced edges. 

Where the Royal Oak conforms to a standard octagonal orientation, there’s a bit more stretching on the sides of the Nautilus’ bezel. Both watches have a brushed bezel finish on and are geared for daily driver exploits. Every Royal Oak’s face leans on its ‘Petite Tapisseries’ design of embossed squares of equal size, while the Nautilus’s range of stripes or plain faces institutes a playful degree of freedom. 

The sizing of both has varied through the years. AP’s Royal Oak seems to carry more favor beneath the 40mm veil, while the shape of the Nautilus conforms above. It’ll always be a matter of preference and your own wrist size as a determinant of which is best, but it’s nice to know they’re each varied. 

	Audemars Piguet Royal Oak	Patek Philippe Nautilus
Case Sizes(Ref. numbers are just examples of possible size range)	Royal Oak 39mm 15300: 2005 — 2012.Royal Oak 41mm 15400: 2012 — 2019.Royal Oak 37mm 15450: 2012 — 2022.Royal Oak 41mm 15500: 2019 — Present.Royal Oak 37mm 15550: 2022 — Present.	Nautilus 42mm 3700: 1976 — 2006Nautilus 40mm 5711: 2006 — 2021Nautilus 41mm 5726: 2006 — Present
Materials	Yellow Gold, White Gold, Frosted White Gold, Rose Gold, Steel, Platinum, Titanium, Ceramic	Rose Gold, White Gold, Stainless Steel
Water Resistance	50M	60M – 120M
Current Movements	Automatic: Calibre 2120, Calibre 2121 Quartz: 2612	Automatic, Mechanical and Quartz
Strap	Metal Bracelet, Leather Strap	Metal Bracelet, Leather Strap
Additional Features	Petite Tapiserrie Dial, Riveted Octagonal Bezel	Moon Phase Complication, Octagonal Bezel
MSRP	$15,400 – $98,000+	$31,940 – $151,000+

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore vs Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Okay, so as far as the AP argument goes, the Offshore is literally a Royal Oak for people who train forearms more than usual. If you’ve got a big wrist but still want the billeted octagon from Genta’s Hall of Fame, the Offshore was designed for you.

The Aquanaut, however, is offered in the same sizes as the Nautilus and defers in its strap, commitment to ruggedness, and more playful aesthetic. On its face, the Royal Oak Offshore continues to blow things out of proportion with a ‘Mega’ take on the tapisserie design. The blocks have been zapped with a growth ray to look like ceramic tiles in a millionaire’s spa house. 

The Aquanaut is less congruent in its departure from the Nautilus. The face is bound by the rules of a largely stretched grid available in a variety of more playful colors. The Offshore and the Aquanaut alike are bold Miami-bred watches that scream, “look at me and remember my name”. 

	Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore	Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Case Sizes(Ref. #s are just examples of possible size range)	Royal Oak Offshore 42mm 25721ST: 1993 — 2004.Royal Oak Offshore 43mm 26420SO: 2021 — 2023.Royal Oak Offshore 44mm 26176FO: 2009 — 2012.Royal Oak Offshore 48mm T3 25863TI: 2003 — 2004	Aquanaut 40mm 5261R: Aquanaut 41mm 5167A-001: Aquanaut 42mm 5168G-001:
Materials	Yellow Gold, White Gold, Frosted White Gold, Rose Gold, Steel, Platinum, Titanium, Ceramic, Diamonds	Rose Gold, White Gold, Stainless Steel
Water Resistance	300M	120M
Movement	Automatic: Quartz: 2612	Automatic, Quartz
Strap	Rubber Strap, Metal Bracelet, Ceramic Bracelet, Alligator Strap, Calfskin Strap	Rubber Strap, Tropical Composite Strap
Additional Features	Mega Tapisserie	Embossed Stretching Square Dial
MSRP	$25,400 – POR	$24,250 – POR

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 vs Patek Philippe Grand Complications

Now we’re into Patek’s bread-and-butter territory. And in my opinion, as whimsical as Code 11.59 presents to be, it’s a far cry away from the revered excellence of the Grand Complications series. 

Both models are picky on size compared to the previously discussed offerings, rarely straying away from the 41mm and 42mm case sizes. Bearing in mind the league change from luxury sports watch to dress watch, the shapely polished bezels are no longer of octagonal measure. 

The Code 11.59 does these gradient faces that pull a darkened edge into some centric, deeply colored point. For me, it doesn’t work as a dress watch and looks a bit tacky, but that’s just me.

	Audemars Piguet Code 11:59	Patek Philippe Grand Complications
Case Sizes (Ref. #s are just examples of possible size range)	Code 11:59 26393OR 41mmCode 11:59 26398BC 42mm	Grand Complications 5207G-001 41mmGrand Complications 5208R-001 42mm
Materials	White Gold, Pink Gold, Black Ceramic, Blue Ceramic, Stainless Steel	18K Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum, Stainless Steel
Water Resistance	20M-30M	30M
Movement	Self-Winding	Self-Winding, Hand Wound
Strap	Alligator Skin, Leather Strap, Rubber Coated Strap	Alligator Skin, Metal Bracelet, Rubber Strap
Additional Features	Openworked (Skeleton option)	“Gouette” Bracelet
MSRP	$34,000 – POR	$34,000 – POR

Conclusion

When the stakes are this high and the money this great, those that can afford it won’t mind dipping their feet in both camps just for the heck of it. The Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet, while the Nautilus isn’t Patek Philippe. 

If you’re looking for a daily luxury watch with a robust band as iconic as Rolex’s Jubilee, I’d go for the Royal Oak. There’s just more variation in size and material, and the watch’s temperament is more easily enjoyed in a casual setting than Patek’s Nautilus. 

If you’re planning on doing some glamping or otherwise high-brow adventuring, the Aquanaut and its brilliantly dependable strap make for comfortably classy wear. Plus, when embellished in those deeper, more natural greens, it finds home beyond gated suburbia and highrise opulence. 

But if the Queen’s in town and you’ve been invited for tea, nothing should be considered beyond the Patek Philippe Grand Complications. Regardless of which complication you go for, which size or material, whether you know its history or have memorized all its references.

It’s Everest, the peak of watchmaking excellence, and while Code 11.59 may have some supremely limited reference competitors, it just doesn’t have the same historical significance. 

Gucci is a luxury lifestyle brand that has its origins in Italy. While still headquartered in Italy, they’ve since grown beyond their Italian borders and have become a global force in fashion and a multi-billion dollar company. Their famous double G logo is known the world over as a statement of sophistication and taste. 

Gucci is appreciated for its leather goods, including luggage and handbags, as well as apparel and accessories. One of the accessories they produce is watches, and this is the rub for many watch experts and collectors. They’re not looking for an accessory, a fashion watch; they want something with more horological heft. 

Gucci watches don’t always come at low prices. If one looks over their website, they’ll see plenty of fashion watches for $1,200 to $2,000 and above. This makes it difficult for some watch collectors to justify, as these Gucci watch collections are unlikely to hold their value or appreciate. 

For a long time, Gucci has been known to use cheap quartz movements and contemporary styling that has left collectors scratching their heads at the value. After all, unless one is quite wealthy, who would spend two grand on something that will be “out of vogue” next season? Well, surprising to some, many seem to be willing to do just that, as Gucci has developed into a major presence in the fashion watch market. 

They also seem to have taken some of the horological criticism seriously because, as of 2021, they’ve upped their watch game by adding in-house, Swiss-made, automatic movements to some of their collections. So, let’s take a look at what Gucci watches have to offer and answer the question, do they hold their value?

About Gucci Watches 

The Gucci fashion brand was founded in Florence, Italy, in 1921 by Guicco Gucci. Today Gucci is a subsidiary of the luxury brand, Kering, a French-based, multi-national, multi-billion dollar public corporation.

Gucci started by primarily selling leather goods and accessories but has greatly expanded into apparel for men and women and watches. In the 1970s, with the advent of the quartz movement, suddenly anyone could get in the watch game.

One didn’t have to be an expert watchmaker anymore; a company with good style and the ability to manufacture the case, strap, or bracelet could practically drop in a cheap, mass-produced quartz movement and make it run. Gucci saw the opportunity and seized it. 

As a lifestyle fashion brand, Gucci has understandably focused on the fashion and design of their watches. They’ve often favored contemporary, trendy designs, over the more conservative and timeless designs of Rolex, for example. They’ve also focused less on the inner workings of the watch (that is, until recently). 

This has put them at odds with many watch experts who primarily value a watch company’s history, accomplishments in the industry, track record, and the engineering of their movements. Rolex and Grand Seiko are two luxury watch brands known for making everything that goes into their watches, from the in-house movements to the lubricant that keeps the gears turning.

What Makes Luxury Watches Hold Their Value?

Not all luxury watches hold their value, but the ones that do, tend to do so for the following reasons: 

Brand Reputation & History

Watch collectors and experts are known to not just enjoy beautiful timepieces but also invest in them. They have specific criteria they look for to analyze a brand generally and a specific model’s potential to not only hold but possibly increase in value. 

One of the first factors they consider is the brand’s reputation. What’s their story? Their stories tell us something about who founded them and what their watching-making ideals were and are, but they also present a track record of accomplishments and a measurement of their consistency in the delivery of those goals and objectives. 

Established watchmakers like Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Grand Seiko have rich legacies. They’ve been around for many decades. They’ve proven themselves as innovators in the industry. They’ve built a trusted reputation for engineering watches that won’t quit. Timepieces that are so well-built they’ll last generations.

Timeless Designs 

Established luxury watch brands favor timeless designs. Their collections not only looked great when they were first released, but they are still elegant and striking decades later. This means they don’t get caught up in the fashion trends of the moment but look to classic cues that don’t age.

Think of models like the Omega Speedmaster, Rolex Submariner, and Cartier Tank. Some see these designs as conservative, but smart watch collectors see them as offering a lasting style that will hold up in the long run. 

Build Quality 

Watch brands like Rolex have company foundries where they cast their own high-end metals like 904L steel, grade 5 titanium, and gold. These materials are incredibly durable, remarkably resistant to corrosion and scratches, as well as having a sheen that stands out in contrast to more standard, run-of-the-mill materials. 

Not only do brands like Rolex use the best materials, but the care, craftsmanship, and attention to detail in their work are evident. These watches are built to last, and watch collectors take notice of those attributes and qualities. 

Mechanical Complexity & Innovation

Many fashion brands offer good-looking but simple watches with few functions. High-end luxury brands tend to offer complications, like perpetual calendars and tourbillons. They also make their movements in-house. Many fashion brands use third-party quartz or ETA-type movements that, at best, they alter for their watches.

For example, Tudor, Rolex’s baby brother, in the past used third-party automatic movements, but in recent years they’ve started making their own in-house mechanical movements that are COSC or METAS certified. This has caught the attention of collectors, and as a result, they tend to hold their value and, in some cases, increase in value. 

Limited Production & Exclusivity

No watch company holds its value quite like Rolex. Not only that, but some Rolex watches have even sold for much more than their original MSRP. In fact, in recent years, the Rolex gray market, which used to be the place one went to find a deal on a Rolex, is now the place impatient buyers go to get a watch right now and, in many cases, pay double Rolex’s MSRP. 

The reason for this is the high demand for Rolex watches and the lengthy process it takes to produce a quality timepiece. Many Rolex models have a waiting list that can be months, if not multiple years long. These conditions make for a solid investment. 

No watch company has proven capable of competing with Rolex on resale, but many have created limited edition timepieces and have forged partnerships with artists and/or brand reps to create unique watch models whose popularity outstrips their availability. One example of this is Omega’s Moonwatch. 

The Speedmaster wasn’t originally created as a space watch but was worn by one of NASA’s first astronauts in space, and Omega eventually won the bid to be the official watch of NASA. As a result, all of the first astronauts on the moon wore Omega Speedmasters, and an icon was born that would go on to become a highly desirable collectible.  

Do Gucci Watches Hold Their Value?

Gucci is an impressive luxury lifestyle brand, and their watches offer some stunning designs, but to properly address the question of value retention, let’s put Gucci watches through the rubric outlined above. 

Brand Reputation & History

Gucci is a style icon, but watch collectors are looking for a watch company with a rich horological heritage. Clearly, this is not Gucci’s strong suit. They’re a fashion brand, and it seems they think of watches as a style accessory. 

Timeless Designs

Gucci offers a broad range of watch designs, and some might be styled more conservatively; however, they’re primarily known for their fashion-forward watch styles. What’s hot this season is cold the next. The ideals of the fashion world, therefore, don’t lend to timeless watch design, and this keeps collectors at bay. 

Build Quality 

A luxury watch is expected to last more than a lifetime; often, they become precious family heirlooms. Gucci does seem to put care into the crafting of their watches; however, they’re not known for offering the level of engineering and precision that the more established luxury brands are known for. 

Overall, most watch collectors would pass on Gucci as an investment. However, monetary value is just one factor to consider when buying a watch. If one favors the style of a particular Gucci watch, then buy it. Just don’t expect to get your money out of it down the road.

Do Gucci Watches Appreciate In Value?

If they don’t hold their value, it doesn’t take a watch genius to figure out they’re unlikely to appreciate in value. However, while most Gucci watches are unlikely to make great investments, some models have reportedly appreciated in value. One of their best performers is the Gucci Horsebit watch in stainless steel with a white lacquered dial (Ref. 399350). 

In 2021, Gucci sent signals that they intended to become a serious watchmaker. They’ve released a line of high-end watches with in-house automatic Swiss movements. So, before anyone writes them off, let’s see what the future holds for Gucci watches. Maybe their fast-fashion days are behind them. 

Are There Any Valuable Vintage Gucci Watches?

There are a few standouts, though value is in the eye of the beholder.

1. Gucci 3000M. This model, from the 1990s, featured a 33mm case, and the one I especially favor is in yellow gold tone. The hour markings are in Roman numerals displayed on the bezel. The timepiece has a slim gold-tone hour and minute hands against a green dial with a spade pattern. It features a Swiss-made quartz movement and is paired with a brown leather strap. 

2. Gucci Bamboo. Various versions of the Bamboo have been produced for women since the 70s, I believe. I came across a 1990s vintage version that featured a small rectangular high-polished stainless steel case with a mirror finish paired with a natural bamboo bracelet. It’s quite a unique, lovely timepiece. 

3. Gucci G Watch 3600J. The ‘90s version offered a 26x26mm stainless steel watch case shaped in a square G. The dial is black with two silver hands. The stainless steel three-link bracelet features a twin-button butterfly clasp. This is a watch that remains popular and worth consideration if one can find it in good condition. 

Parting Thoughts

Gucci is a fashion lifestyle brand that offers high-quality leather goods, apparel, and accessories like watches. Their watches are mostly regarded as fashion watches by serious watch collectors and enthusiasts because they don’t have a rich watchmaking heritage, they tend to favor fashion-forward designs that go out of style, and they put a higher premium on fashion over mechanical engineering. 

As a result, they’re not typically considered the brand of choice for investors. However, some of their models have appreciated in value, and they do have some vintage models that have become collectibles. In the last couple of years, they’ve started making their own in-house automatic movements for their high-end collections, and they’re sending signals that they intend to shake up the watch industry. Time will tell (sorry for the “cheesy” pun).

In our comprehensive review of Versace watches, we embark on an exciting journey to uncover their true worth. We analyze their pros and cons, review their collections, and guide you in deciding whether a Versace watch is a good fit for your style.

Recognizing that personal preferences vary, we also present alternative brands worthy of your attention. Whether you seek timeless sophistication, technical precision, or groundbreaking innovation, our curated selection of alternative luxury watch brands ensures you explore relevant options.

By the end of this article, armed with our insights and expertise, you will possess a comprehensive understanding of Versace watches and their place in the world of horology. Get ready to make an informed choice that reflects your unique style and sensibilities.

About Versace Watches

Versace watches cater to both ladies and gents, embracing the world of fashion on wrists. They serve more as fashion accessories that elevate ensembles than as timekeeping objects.

The price of Versace watches, ranging from $495 to $4495, reflects the brand’s opulence and luxury. While expensive for what they offer, they align with the exclusivity and allure associated with Versace.

Accordingly, traditional watch enthusiasts may not regard Versace watches as quality timepieces. Ultimately, Versace watches make fashionable statements, embodying the brand’s glamorous aesthetic.

The History of Versace

Gianni Versace, growing up in Reggio Calabria, developed his passion for fashion while working for his mother’s sewing business. He became a renowned designer and opened his own boutique in Milan in 1978. Versace revolutionized the industry by using multiple elements in the same dress and taking his runway shows to major markets.

His marketing genius included using supermodels and high-level photographers for campaigns and dressing celebrities such as Princess Diana, Elton John, and Jennifer Lopez. In 1992, he moved to Miami and established the iconic Versace Mansion. Tragically, he was shot and killed in 1997, and his sister Donatella took over as creative director.

Donatella, as his muse, continued the brand’s success. Gianni’s designs were unique, sculpted directly on mannequins, and he challenged gender barriers with his innovative approach. Versace was known for his extravagant and lavish style, celebrating the power of women. Donatella injected her own spirit and innovation into the brand, focusing on pop culture and collaborating with musicians like Jennifer Lopez.

The Versace story is rooted in family values, and despite Gianni’s passing, the brand thrived under Donatella’s vision. Their resilience and impact on the global fashion industry have solidified Versace’s position as a heavyweight in the industry.

Are Versace Watches Good?

Very Overpriced Watches

Versace watches are often considered overpriced due to their shortcomings compared to other brands in the same price range. They lack the traditional artisanal craftsmanship found in competing brands, which diminishes their perceived value.

Additionally, the movements used in Versace watches are seen as inferior to their competitors, raising doubts about their overall quality and performance. The absence of meticulous attention to detail and finer finishes further contributes to the perception that Versace watches may not offer the same level of craftsmanship as other luxury brands in their price range.

Cheap Swiss Quartz Movements

Versace watches fall short in the realm of watchmaking due to their use of cheap quartz movements. Quartz movements, while affordable and mass-produced, lack the intricate craftsmanship and horological artistry of mechanical movements. 

Watches equipped with ETA, Sellita, Valjoux, or in-house manufactured movements showcase superior accuracy, durability, and traditional craftsmanship. In contrast, Versace watches do not offer the same level of mechanical sophistication and craftsmanship, hindering their appeal to watch enthusiasts.

Depreciate in Value Significantly

Versace watches depreciate due to their lack of brand recognition as dedicated watchmakers. Their reputation lies in luxury fashion, unlike renowned watchmaking brands.

The production of Versace watches in indiscriminate quantities diminishes their exclusivity and desirability. Their lower quality, including cheap materials and quartz movements, also disappoints compared to watches emphasizing craftsmanship.

Finally, Versace watches lack significant cultural impact (as opposed to what the original Swatch did with an even cheaper watch), limiting their desirability and value in the secondary market.

Lack Brand Prestige in Watchmaking

In my opinion, one of the reasons why Versace watches may lack brand prestige in the watchmaking industry is their primary association with the luxury fashion world. While Versace is renowned for its fashion designs and accessories, the same level of emphasis and recognition may not extend to its watches.

This distinction is evident when exploring Versace’s website, where watches are often categorized as a subcategory within the broader accessories section. In contrast, luxury fashion brand Hermès offers an interesting counterexample. Hermès has established a notable and generally respected watch collection by adopting a resolute approach to excellence in their watchmaking endeavors.

They have successfully infused their watches with the brand’s universe, creating timepieces that reflect their distinct craftsmanship, attention to detail, and dedication to quality. By focusing on watchmaking as a product category in its own merit, Hermès has garnered recognition and respect within the horological community.

The positioning of Versace watches as a subcategory within the accessories section rather than as a standalone category indicates that watches are not a primary focus for the brand. This distinction can impact the perception of Versace watches as reliable timepieces with their own horological significance.

While Versace’s fashion background adds a certain allure to its watches, the lack of a clear and distinct watchmaking identity has hindered its ability to establish a strong presence and reputation in the watch industry. 

However, while Versace watches may have their shortcomings, they can still hold appeal for certain customers. In the following sections, we will delve into the reasons why some individuals may find Versace watches exciting and explore the unique aspects that the brand brings to the table.

From their bold and distinctive design aesthetic to their association with the world of fashion and luxury, Versace watches have the potential to resonate with customers who prioritize style and self-expression. So, let’s explore further to understand why Versace watches may still captivate a specific audience.

Bold & Eye-Catching Designs

When it comes to design, Versace watches are in a league of their own. They go beyond the boundaries of conventional watch aesthetics, daring to make a bold statement. The visual elements incorporated into their designs are not just mere embellishments but powerful symbols that embody the essence of the Versace brand.

One of the most iconic symbols seen in Versace watches is the Medusa face, derived from the Versace logo itself. This distinctive motif is present on most of their dials, capturing attention with its striking presence.

The Medusa, with its intricate details and mythical allure, adds a touch of mystique and grandeur to the timepiece. It’s a symbol of power, strength, and beauty, reflecting the bold and fearless spirit of the Versace brand.

In addition to the Medusa, the Greca symbol is another key element that defines Versace watches. The Greca, inspired by ancient Greek architecture, can be found adorning the bezel or incorporated as a pattern on the dial.

This intricate motif, with its repetitive geometric patterns, exudes a sense of timeless elegance and sophistication. It serves to showcase Versace’s dedication to creating visually captivating timepieces.

What also sets Versace watches apart is their fearless approach to color. Versace is renowned for its vibrant and daring color palette, and their watches are no exception. They embrace the power of contrasting colors, combining bold hues to create a visually stunning and harmonious composition.

It’s an invitation to step outside the ordinary and embrace the extraordinary. For watch enthusiasts who crave originality and a fashion-forward approach, Versace watches hold a special appeal. They offer a unique opportunity to express individuality and stand out from the crowd.

Swiss-Made Durable Watches

On the topic of quality, Versace watches adhere to the Swiss-made tradition, embodying the standards and principles that define Swiss craftsmanship. While they may not be considered the best-in-class among Swiss watches, they still meet the high expectations associated with Swiss quality.

Versace watches are designed to be resistant, reliable, and durable, capable of withstanding the tests of time. They undergo rigorous testing and quality control procedures to ensure that each watch meets the industry standards. From the selection of materials to the assembly process, every step is executed with precision and care.

Most Notable Versace Watch Collections

Versace Dominus

The Dominus Collection by Versace is a remarkable assortment of men’s watches that flawlessly combines style and substance. With their tonneau-shaped cases measuring 42×49.50mm, these timepieces command attention on the wrist, exuding a sense of boldness and confidence.

At the heart of the Dominus Collection lies its most distinctive feature: the oversized tonneau case, which sits prominently and elegantly on the wrist. This striking design element sets these watches apart, making a powerful statement about the wearer’s discerning taste and style.

Designed as Versace’s vision of elegant sports watches, all models within this collection are chronographs, a choice definitely made more for the style than the function or tradition. The Dominus Collection comprises three captivating models that cater to different preferences. The full steel model exudes a timeless elegance, combining the durability of stainless steel with the refined aesthetics of Versace’s design language.

The gold-plated model adds a touch of opulence, making a solid statement with its luxurious appeal. For those seeking a sleek and modern aesthetic, the all-black metal model presents a sophisticated option that effortlessly enhances any ensemble.

Versace Medusa

The Medusa Collection by Versace is a captivating range of watches designed specifically for ladies who appreciate the fusion of classical style and modern sophistication. With case sizes of 38mm and 39mm, these timepieces strike the right balance between subtlety and presence on the wrist. The round cases are available in stainless steel, golden-plated, or silicone options, providing a variety of looks to suit individual tastes.

At the heart of the Medusa collection lies its most notable feature: the iconic Medusa face prominently placed at the center of the dial. The Medusa collection embodies a sense of classic-ish elegance, making it ideal for dressier occasions in the glamorous life of a Versace aficionado.

Whether attending a formal event or seeking to elevate the everyday style, these watches effortlessly enhance any outfit with their bold sophistication. Two notable models within the Medusa Collection are the Medusa Pop and the Medusa Icon.

The Medusa Pop stands out with its vibrant silicone case and band, available in eye-catching total look styles featuring pink, turquoise, white, and black versions. These unique hues bring a playful and contemporary twist to traditional watch designs, making a bold fashion statement.

On the other hand, the Medusa Icon offers a sleeker and more modern interpretation with its digital hour and minute indicators. This innovative approach to timekeeping adds a touch of technology while maintaining the collection’s inherent elegance.

Versace Greca

The Greca collection by Versace represents a captivating blend of sophistication and symbolic design elements. Designed for both men and women, these round timepieces are meticulously crafted with attention to detail, offering a range of sizes and variations to cater to different preferences.

The hallmark feature of the collection is the Greca motif, adorning dials, bezels, and sometimes bracelets, ensuring the Versace touch is present all over the timepiece. In the ladies’ selection, the Greca collection offers options with 35mm and 36mm cases. These watches focus on the essential elements of timekeeping, featuring 2-hand dials only.

Crafted in stainless steel or gold-plated variations, these timepieces express a certain brand of femininity. The Greca Time Lady, for instance, stands out with its bicolor design, green dial, and baton-style hands and indexes in an almost understated fashion.

For men, the Greca collection boasts a diverse range of sizes, including 41mm, 42mm, 43mm, 44mm, and 45mm. Whether you prefer the timeless elegance of a three-hand watch or the functionality of a chronograph, these timepieces cater to various tastes and style preferences.

Stainless steel, gold-plated, and bicolor options are available, allowing individuals to choose a timepiece that resonates with their personal style. The Greca Dome Chrono, in particular, has a catchy look, featuring a 43mm bicolor case with three subdials and an engraved flat bezel.

Versace Icon Active

The Icon Active collection by Versace ventures to the boundaries of watch design, blending style with avant-garde features. Designed for both men and women, these round timepieces are crafted with a transparent polycarbonate case, creating a modern and dynamic aesthetic. With a 44mm case size, except for one model measuring 43mm, these watches make a bold statement on the wrist.

One distinctive feature of the Icon Active collection is the presence of four screws strategically placed at 10, 2, 4, and 8 o’clock, adorning a contrasting bezel insert. These screws add a sense of visual impact and enhance the watch’s action-ready appearance, elevating its allure.

The collection’s standout models include the version adorned with a swirling, colored pattern. This unique design gives the illusion that the watch has been draped in an extravagant, Versace-infused dress.

For those seeking a playful twist, the New Year Rabbit version offers an unconventional and unexpected choice. Featuring a “gangsta”-type Bugs Bunny design, we will call this timepiece an ode to Versace’s audacious approach.

While it may only appeal to die-hard Versace fans or those with a peculiar fascination for thug rabbits, this watch embodies the brand’s willingness to push boundaries and challenge conventional norms, wherever that may lead them.

Versace Hellenyium

The Hellenyium collection by Versace aims at a balance between casual elegance and sporty flair, catering to both men and women seeking a versatile timepiece. These round watches are available in stainless steel, gold-plated, or bicolor variations, allowing you to choose a style that reflects your personal taste.

The iconic Medusa logo proudly graces the dial at 12 o’clock, while the distinctive Greca motif adorns the dial and/or bezel. For the ladies, the Hellenyium collection offers a sleek 35mm size, featuring hour and minute hands for a clean and minimalist aesthetic.

For the gentlemen, the collection offers sizes ranging from 42mm to 44mm, ensuring a perfect fit on the wrist. You have the option of choosing between chronograph or three-hand models, allowing you to select the functionality that suits your preferences.

Among the key models in the collection, the stainless steel Hellenyium Chrono stands out as one of the most understated Versace watches. It is the timepiece to wear when you desire a subtle elegance that doesn’t seek attention—a rare occurrence in the life of a Versace customer. The Hellenyium Chrono showcases the brand’s ability to create timepieces that won’t overwhelm the wearer’s overall look.

Should You Buy a Versace Watch?

Versace watches cater to specific groups of individuals who embrace the distinct world of fashion, bold aesthetics, and personal expression. If any of the following traits resonate with you, then a Versace watch might just be the perfect addition to your collection:

Devotees of Versace: If you find yourself captivated by the charisma of Versace, its style, and its iconic presence, owning a Versace watch becomes an extension of your unwavering adoration.

Fashion Aficionados: Versace reigns supreme in the fashion realm, and their watches exemplify their influential status. For those who consider themselves fashion-forward, a Versace watch serves as an accessory that effortlessly complements the latest trends.

Non-Horological Traditionalists: Versace watches do not revolve around horological traditions. If you prioritize aesthetics, avant-garde design, and the undeniable Versace allure over technical intricacies, a Versace watch presents a clear appeal.

Those Unconcerned with Investment Value: For individuals who appreciate watches primarily as fashion statements rather than investment opportunities, Versace watches fulfill that desire flawlessly.

In essence, if you embrace the captivating allure of Versace, possess a fashion-forward mindset, prioritize style over traditional horological conventions, and are not solely focused on the investment aspect of watches, then a Versace timepiece is an exquisite choice.

These watches enable you to embody the spirit of the brand, make an indelible fashion statement, and immerse yourself in the extraordinary world of Versace’s daring design philosophy.

Alternatives to Versace Watches

Oris

Founded in 1904, Oris has a century-long presence, adding depth and credibility to the brand’s tradition and craftsmanship. Below are some of the brand’s key characteristics:

Exceptional Value for Money

Offering Swiss-made quality at lower prices, Oris delivers exceptional value with reliable Swiss calibers and meticulous attention to detail.

Distinctive and Thoughtful Design

Oris blends classic elegance and contemporary flair, creating watches that captivate with their balanced and thoughtful aesthetics.

Diverse Range of Models

From vintage-inspired classics to contemporary timepieces, Oris caters to various tastes, ensuring a watch for every collector.

Independent Spirit and Customer Focus

As an independent brand, Oris maintains a strong identity and close connection with customers, actively engaging and resonating with collectors.

TAG Heuer

With a century of watchmaking excellence, TAG Heuer’s deep-rooted heritage and commitment to precision drive its enduring legacy. Below are some of the brand’s key characteristics:

Motorsport Heritage and Iconic Designs

Renowned drivers like Siffert, Rindt, Senna, and McQueen proudly wore TAG Heuer watches, elevating them to legendary status. Iconic designs capture the spirit of racing with style and functionality.

Diverse Collection for Every Lifestyle

TAG Heuer offers a range of watches for different preferences and lifestyles, from classic elegance to sporty adventure.

Technological Innovation and Performance

Pushing boundaries with cutting-edge features and materials, TAG Heuer ensures exceptional accuracy and reliability in its timepieces.

Timeless Aesthetics and Contemporary Designs

Balancing timeless aesthetics and modern elements, TAG Heuer watches exude style and sophistication.

Longines

Founded in 1832, Longines exemplifies watchmaking innovation. From pioneering chronograph movements to enduring sports associations, Longines shapes the horological landscape.

Extensive Collection Diversity

With over 1,200 models, Longines offers a timepiece for every taste and occasion. From classic dress watches to sporty styles, express your unique personality with Longines.

Enduring Sports Sponsorships and Iconic Brand Ambassadors

Longines partners with alpine skiing, archery, and equestrian sports, aligning with precision and performance. Collaborations with iconic figures solidify its reputation.

Impeccable Heritage and Attention to Detail

Longines cherishes its heritage and meticulous craftsmanship. Its winged hourglass logo symbolizes tradition and authenticity.

Conclusion

In conclusion, while Versace watches may not captivate traditional watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs seeking horological excellence, their appeal lies in the realm of fashion and self-expression.

Designed for individuals with a penchant for boldness and a desire to make a fashion statement, Versace timepieces offer a unique blend of luxury and distinctive style.

“Take the path that moonbeams make. If the moon is still awake, you’ll see him wink his eye.”

As a child, I was always enamored by the moon. It was always there when I couldn’t sleep, a night light that never went out, and the source of my adventurous imagination that allowed me to be the hero of a Sci-Fi story that played out in my dreams.

But it wasn’t until I got older that I realized many myths and legends surround the moon, its existence, and its role in our lives.

For example, most of us who paid attention in school know that the moon controls the earth and impacts our lives in three distinct ways: time, tides, and light. If it were to suddenly disappear, the Earth’s tilt could vary dramatically, and without its gravitational pull, Earth would no longer be held in place.

But for the romantics, the daydreamers, and lovers of whimsical tales, the moon plays a much more fanciful and adventurous role in their lives. While I’m not suggesting they don’t believe in the scientific facts of the moon, it is the myths, legends, and lore surrounding the moon that dictates how they look at life.

Take the Lakota Tribe, for example; they believe that the Sun and Moon were created to tell the importance of love. Or in many Eastern cultures, the moon is home to a mythological white rabbit who makes the elixir for immortality.

While yes, the myths and legends from ancient cultures were a way to give meaning to a world not yet fully understood, it is the romanticism that surrounds the tales that remind me of the reason we, as watch enthusiasts, love our moonphase timepieces.

Are they a particularly helpful complication? Well, not really. But they are beautiful and constantly remind us why we fell in love with this absurd obsession. So, sit down, put your feet up, maybe have a drink as the sun begins to fade, and let’s talk about the best moonphase watches for every budget.

About Moonphase Watches

I think it is safe to say that many of us in the watch enthusiast community have a pretty good understanding of what is and isn’t a useful complication. And while I’ll admit I have had timepieces with complications that fall into both categories, I’ve never owned a moonphase watch. 

It wasn’t because I didn’t have the opportunity to own one; I just never saw the point. That was until I started writing this article. Over the course of the research and writing of this article, I found myself as enamored with the idea of a moonphase watch as I did with the moon as a child.

So, in an attempt to justify what will likely be my next purchase, let’s discuss the history of moonphase watches and why they are so cool.

History of Moonphase Watches

Man, where to begin? I guess way way way back in ancient Greece. The earliest of moonphase complications was actually discovered in the mysterious Antikythera mechanism, which is the oldest known example of an analog computer used to predict astronomical positions and eclipses.

While I understand that this might not be an example of a horological moonphase, it is worth noting that the idea and use of moonphase complications date back further than most of us probably realized.

But it wasn’t until the Renaissance (14^th Century) that we saw the use of the moonphase complication in a “modern” clock when it was used in astrological clocks built in the great churches and cathedrals of Europe.

As we progress through time and the history of the moonphase complication, we see the use of the moonphase being incorporated into smaller and smaller clocks, starting with the Grandfather Clocks of Germany and England, then into pocket watches, and finally in the 20^th century, we see the elegant complication being used in wristwatches.

As watchmaking became more and more technologically advanced, the moonphase became more and more accurate. Many of today’s most influential and prominent watch brands produce moonphase timepieces accurate to well over 1,000 years!

I’m sure you’re probably saying to yourself, “That’s cool, but what does it matter if I don’t understand how they work?” But fear not, my dear reader, we will tackle that topic next!

Moonphase Watches: How They Work

To begin, we need to have a definition of what a moonphase complication is. To make it as simple as possible, a moonphase complication is a display of the current phase of the moon in a window or aperture on the dial of a timepiece. Now that we have a definition for the moonphase complication, it’s time to discuss how it actually works.

The moonphase complication involves putting two moons on a disc under the dial. This disc is powered by a 59-tooth wheel which uses a mechanical lever to advance the disc once a day. After the 29.5-day lunar cycle is complete, the second moon on the disc will appear, signifying a new moon and the start of a new lunar cycle.

So, without a doubt, the moonphase complication is an amazing feat of engineering. But in today’s world, where we have more access to more knowledge more of the time, is it necessary? Simply put, no.

But that isn’t the reason we, as enthusiasts, wear antiquated technology on our wrists to begin with. We do it because the art and beauty of a manual timepiece will always trump the need for form and function. So, before we get into the list of our 30 best moonphase watches, I suggest taking a bathroom break before you continue because it is gonna be a long one.

The Best Moonphase Watches

1. Orient Sun & Moon (ref. RA-AK0011D10B)

In the world of affordable watches, very few brands offer what Orient offers in their catalog. While known for their great budget-friendly dive watches like the Ray II, Mako II, and Kamasu II, Orient definitely offers much in the way of dress watches.

For example, the Orient Bambino might just be the best affordable dress watch for under $200.

But the standout for me is the Orient Sun & Moon. This moonphase watch has a case diameter of 42.5mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 50.5mm, and a case thickness of 14mm.

The Orient Sun & Moon comes packed with features, including a day/date complication, a 24-hour indicator, a moonphase (obviously), and an exhibition case back to display the in-house automatic Orient Caliber F6B24.

At the current price on the Orient website of $355, you will be hard-pressed to find another moonphase watch packed with as many features and looks. 

2. Citizen Calendrier Moonphase Eco-Drive (ref. BU0050-02L)

As of late, Citizen has been making waves, so to speak, with the release of the ultra-cool 70’s inspired Promaster Mechanical Diver nicknamed the “Fujitsubo.”

But, prior to the brand’s modern reinterpretation of a classic Citizen dive watch, it was the use of their Eco-Drive technology that really wowed the watch world in 1976 with the world’s first-ever light-powered analog quartz watch.

Citizen has continued to perfect the Eco-Drive movement and uses it in many of their watch lines, including the Citizen Calendrier Moonphase Eco-Drive.

The Citizen Calendrier has a case diameter of 44mm and a somewhat unconventional lug width of 23mm. Along with the moonphase, the Calendrier also features a month, day, and date complication, which is laid out on a beautifully symmetrical blue dial.

As of writing this article, the Calendrier can be found on the Citizen website for $332.50, with its normal MSRP of $475. That is quite the bargain for a watch that will never need a battery.

3. Tissot Carson Premium Gent Moonphase (ref. T122.423.16.043.00)

For those who have read our article on the 15 Best Tissot Dive Watches, you will probably already know the brand and what great value they offer for your hard-earned bucks. While many of us know them for their Seastar Collection and, most recently, the PRX Collection, Tissot offers so much more.

One of those offerings is the Tissot Carson Premium Gent Moonphase. With a case diameter of 40mm and a case thickness of just 7.6mm, this elegantly refined moonphase watch is the perfect companion for a date night out.

The slim stainless steel case will slide under the tightest of dress shirts. The rich blue dial adorned with Roman numerals and the subtly placed moonphase offers a Bauhaus-esque minimalist design that will be sure to turn a head or two. The quartz-powered Carson has an MSRP of $350 and can be bought directly from the Tissot website.

4. Seiko Premier Kinetic Moonphase (ref. SRX015)

For many enthusiasts, Seiko is the entry point into the world of watches due to the affordability of many Seiko timepieces and the unique design languages within the plethora of Seiko Collections.

Now, I will admit, from a design/looks point of view, I am not a huge fan of the Seiko Premier Kinetic Moonphase, the next watch on our list. But I do think that it has a lot to offer from a technology standpoint.

Much like the Citizen Calendrier, the Seiko Premier Kinetic runs off of a power source that is a little different from your typical quartz watch.

The Premier Kinetic packs a lot of functionality into the 42.5mm case offering a Moonphase, Date, Day, GMT, Second Time Zone, Hour, Minute, Second, and Power Reserve Indicator for just under $600.

5. MU:N Watches Creators No. 29

While researching for this article, I was pleasantly surprised when I found MU:N Watches. After all, it isn’t every day that you stumble across a completely new (to me) watch brand that seems to have the same sane love of the moon and stars as yourself!

MU:N watches, from what I can deduce, is a collaborative effort to bring the watch enthusiast community into the creative process when designing each timepiece they produce. Which, if you ask me, is a great way to build a closer community centered around the things we love.

The MU:N Creators No. 29 is the first MU:N watch and is limited to a mere 70 pieces. The No. 29 has a case diameter of 38mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 46mm, and a case thickness of 11mm.

Powered by a Sellita SW288-1a, this hard-to-find minimalist stainless steel moonphase watch is most definitely on my shortlist of timepieces if I can find it at its MSRP of around $1600.

6. Oris Artelier Moonphase (ref. 01 781 7703 4031-07 5 21 75FC)

For most, the Oris brand is heralded as one of the last great, affordable, and privately owned watch brands not owned by a massive watch conglomerate.

And while they are best known for their Aquis, Big Crown, and ProPilot collections, there is a hidden gem of a dress watch collection, the Artelier, that I think offers a lot for the price.

The Artelier Moonphase is a simple and beautifully symmetrical timepiece that offers not only a moonphase complication but a day, date, and second time zone.

With a case diameter of 40.5mm, the Artelier Moonphase is a sweet spot for many wrist sizes. The white guilloche dial, accented with blue indices, offers a refined palette that will look at home on any wrist and be the perfect accent to numerous styles.

At $2,150, the Oris Artelier Moonphase is a great timepiece for anyone looking to take a step into the world of moonphase watches. 

7. Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow

Do you remember earlier when I said that the writing of this article had convinced me to purchase a moonphase watch? Well, the Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow, as of now, is the front-runner for my next timepiece. 

The C1 Moonglow is an uber-modern timepiece that offers an insane amount of detail in its 40.5mm case. It is powered by an in-house JJ04 movement that can accurately track the moon’s orbit for 128 years. But the standout feature of this Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow is the dial.

The Super-LumiNova-coated three-dimensional moons are applied to the end of the rotating disc, which gives the dial great depth, dimension, and an extraterrestrial glow. With an MSRP of $2,325, the C1 Moonglow offers a beautiful view of the night sky any time of day. 

8. Longines 1832 (ref. L4.826.4.52.0)

Longines’ rich history in the world of horology dates back to 1832, hence the reason for the name of the next watch on our list. The 1832 Collection and, more importantly, the moonphase variant pays tribute to the Longines of yesteryear.

The 1832 Moonphase has a case dimension of 40mm and offers a date complication surrounding the moonphase dial. The watch is powered by a Longines L899, which is an ETA-based movement that offers a very impressive 72-hour power reserve.

Coming in at $2,400, this classically designed moonphase will fly “under the radar” for anyone not in the know and offers a great classic look with modern materials and reliability. 

9. Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto Chrono Moonphase (ref. H32696731)

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto Chrono Moonphase has an incredibly Avant-Garde design that is reminiscent of its namesake, jazz. For those that don’t listen to jazz music, jazz is very much based on traditional African ritual music with its roots in blues and ragtime.

But what makes jazz truly unique is its Avant-Garde improvisation. The Jazzmaster Chrono Moonphase is no different. While it has its roots in traditional chronograph watches, its design language is unique.

With an “open heart” dial design and gold accents, the 44mm cased moonphase watch would look as much at home in a smokey jazz club as a trumpet being played. The Jazzmaster comes in at $3,200 and is powered by a Valjoux-7751. 

10. Meistersinger Lunascope (ref. LS908G)

Meistersinger is known for being the brand that makes one-handed watches. And while I applaud them for their uniqueness and design language, they just never made my clock tick, if you catch my drift. That was until I saw the Lunascope.

The Lunascope, much like the Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow, caught my attention because of the detail and beauty that went into the design of the watch.

While the Lunascope follows the same design language as the rest of the one-handed Meistersinger collection, the attention to detail in the dial’s layout and configuration makes it such a beautiful watch.

The 40mm timepiece is powered by an ETA 2836-2 with a Meistersinger moonphase module and comes with a gorgeous blue dial and an almost ecru-colored moon with matching Arabic numerals. The Lunascope has an MSRP of $4,649 and gives you the option of a leather strap or bracelet.

11. Montblanc Star Legacy Moonphase (ref. MB126079)

Montblanc certainly has its detractors, but when given a second look by many, it is clear that Montblanc has really taken strides over the last few years to find their design language and create timepieces with classic designs that will always remain in style.

The Montblanc Star Legacy Moonphase is one of those timepieces. The classic design of the Minerva pocket watch-inspired case has a diameter of 42mm and is adorned with an onion-shaped crown that works perfectly with the design.

Where the watch really shines is the dial. The guilloche dial starts at the six ‘o’clock position with an exploding Montblanc star and is perfectly matched with blue leaf-style hands.

The well-balanced Roman numerals give the Star Legacy Moonphase an old-world charm, and at an MSRP of $4,500, this moonphase timepiece is certainly one to look at for those looking for a refined heritage-styled piece. 

12. Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture (ref. FC-705S4S6)

As we continue down our list, we are seeing more and more timepieces that offer in-house movement. The Frederique Constant Slimlione Moonphase is no different. Powered by the FC-705, this manufacture movement delivers accuracy as well as performance as it drives the minutes, hours, date, and moonphase complications.

With a case diameter of 42mm and a case thickness of 11.2mm, the Slimline Moonphase is a great-sized dress watch for those with bigger wrists or those who just like the feel of a bigger timepiece.

One very neat feature of the Slimline Moonphase is the ability to change all functions through a single crown. This means no pushers to adjust the moonphase. The FC Slimline Moonphase has an MSRP of $3,562.

13. Zenith Elite Moonphase (ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923)

As you have seen on our list so far, every watch mentioned has come in under $5,000, which seems to be a very healthy budget for many and what could be considered a reasonable budget for entry into the luxury watch space. 

With that said, the Zenith Elite Moonphase marks the spot on our list where the timepieces take a substantial jump in price and begin with immense attention to detail in the quality and craftsmanship.

The Zenith Elite Moonphase has a case diameter of 40.5mm, which is a great size for all wrists, and is powered by an in-house Zenith Elite movement.

The slate-grey sunray-patterned style oozes sophistication while a display case back shows off the beautifully yet simply finished Elite movement.

With an MSRP of $7,000, the Elite Moonphase is a great addition to any collection that’s missing a beautifully simple and classic moonphase watch.

14. IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase (ref. IW516401)

When the name IWC is mentioned, I’m sure the first thing that comes to mind is a tool watch of some variety, whether it be a dive watch or a pilot’s watch, it most likely isn’t a dress-style watch with a moonphase that retails for $13,900.

But the next watch on our list is just that, an IWC from the Portofino collection, which, next to the DaVinci collection, might be the least popular of all the IWC collections.

The IWC Portofino Moonphase is a 45mm stainless steel cased moonphase timepiece that is powered by the in-house manually wound calibre 59800 movement, which has an amazing 192-hour or 8-day power reserve.

While I’ll admit it wouldn’t be my first pick if I was to buy an IWC, the Portofino Moonphase is a watch that certainly delivers classic looks with modern size and presence.

15. Cartier Drive Moon Phases (ref. WSNM0008)

Cartier is a brand that is well known for the Santos and Tank. One was the first-ever pilot’s watch, and the other was such an icon of design it has adorned the wrist of Hollywood stars and Royalty alike. But I think a collection in the Cartier lineup that gets overlooked is the Drive de Cartier.

The Cartier Drive Moonphase has a case diameter of 41.2mm, a lug-to-lug of 47.11, and a case thickness of 12.15mm. The unique case shape, which is neither a circle nor a square, but somewhere in between, means this watch wears incredibly well on a variety of wrist sizes.

The classic design of the dial layout with Roman Numerals is typical Cartier, but the absence of a date complication is what makes me love this watch so much. With prices ranging from $8,000 to $10,250, the Cartier Drive Moonphase is a timepiece that will have fashionistas fawning.

16. Omega Speedmaster Moonphase (ref. 304.33.44.52.03.001)

Being the watch that went to the moon, there has to be some sort of ironic punchline when discussing the Speedmaster Moonphase. But for those who are into brevity, we will save that for another time.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonphase has a case diameter of 44.25mm, a lug-to-lug of 50mm, and a case thickness of 16.9mm which means this chunky monkey is definitely best suited for our big-wristed readers.

Now I know you are all rolling your eyes at yet ANOTHER Speedmaster, but the moonphase does offer a tremendous blue sun-brushed dial with small seconds, date, and photo-realistic moonphase on top of the chronograph that the Speedy is known for.With an MSRP of $10,900, this unique Speedy is definitely a must-have for any collector.

17. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon (ref. Q1368471)

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been nicknamed the “Watchmaker of Watchmakers” due to its incredible history of innovations and the creation of over 1,200 calibers. So it is no surprise that on a list of thirty moonphase watches, they were bound to show up.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon is an excellent example of understated luxury from a brand that should really have the “Holy Trinity” moniker changed to the “Holy Quartet.”

With a case diameter of 39mm and a case thickness of just 9.3mm, the Ultra-Thin Moon is the perfect black-tie companion. The sophisticated black sunray-brushed dial is perfectly accented by the rhodium-plated markers.

Powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 925, the Ultra-Thin Moon has a 70-hour power reserve and an MSRP of $11,900.

18. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-42-32-61)

Glashütte Original is a brand that offers the enthusiast an incredibly diverse set of offerings in its small-ish five-collection catalog. While I am a massive fan of the Spezialist and Vintage Collections, it is the Pano Collection that really showed me the attention to detail that Glashütte Original puts into every timepiece.

Like the rest of the Pano Collection, the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar can be identified by its unique asymmetrical dial layout, which is an unmistakable design queue from Glashütte Original.

The standout feature on this 40mm stainless steel timepiece is definitely the galvanized silver dial with a matte opaline finish. It is so impressive that it takes master craftsmen a forty-step process to complete the beautiful dial.

The PanoMaticLunar has an MSRP of $9,600 and is the perfect piece to scratch that German itch we all have.

19. Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 (ref. AB2510201K1P1)

Breitling, for what it’s worth, has had a bit of a renaissance since Georges Kern took over as CEO in 2017. Gone are the days of the gaudy Breitling for Bentley timepieces.  I think I speak for most when I say “Thank God” because those abominations almost tanked the brand that has given us some amazing timepieces.

With that said, the Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 is supremely cool and likely the most refined chronograph in the entire Breitling catalog.

Equipped with a full calendar and moonphase and powered by a Breitling B25 movement, this 42mm stainless steel cased, copper-dialed timepiece has as much to offer in the function department as it does in the form department. The Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 has an MSRP of $14,000. 

20. Blancpain Villeret Complete Calendar Moonphase (ref. 6654-1127-55B)

Blancpain is a brand that needs no introduction. Though the watchmaker is best known for being the creator of one of the first ever commercially available dive watches, the Fifty-Fathoms, they have made our list for an entirely different reason.

The Blancpain Villeret Complete Calendar Moonphase, much like the previous Breitling entry, comes equipped with a full calendar as well as the moonphase.

What is amazing is that the Blancpain manages to fit a whole lot of complications into a very sleek package with a case diameter of 40mm and a case thickness of 10.9mm, which is a pretty amazing feat.

The Blancpain Moonphase has a very muted color palette with black-on-white printing, applied silver indices, and even a grey moonphase.

It is powered by the Blancpain Caliber 6654.4 and has a power reserve of 72 hours. With an MSRP of $15,700, this is the perfect watch for someone looking for a more monochromatic moonphase timepiece.

21. Hublot Classic Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic (ref. 547.CX.0170.LR)

Hublot is the brand that many enthusiasts love to hate. With their bombastic and sometimes questionable design choices, it is easy to do. But, with their use of unique materials and reserved design, I think the Hublot Classic Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic is a rather nice watch.

With a case diameter of 42mm, the Black Magic is a great size. With the use of a fully ceramic case, this watch is lighter and more scratch resistant than both steel and titanium-cased watches.

The transparent dial gives you a front-row seat to the HUB1131 movement, which offers a full calendar complication and has a power reserve of 42 hours. But, with an MSRP of $18,100, it is safe to say that we are now getting into big-baller shot-caller territory on this list.

22. Rolex Cellini Moonphase (ref. 50535)

With all the hype and chaos surrounding Rolex sport watches, it is no surprise that some other timepieces in the catalog get lost in the shuffle and never really get the credit they deserve.

That said, I think the Cellini collection and, more specifically, the now discontinued Rolex Cellini Moonphase is a hidden gem within the Rolex catalog. With a 39mm rose gold case, the Cellini Moonphase is the first watch on our list to be cased in precious metal.

The beautiful white lacquered dial is contrasted by the blue enameled moonphase depicting a full and new moon. The Cellini Moonphase is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3130, has a 48-hour power reserve, and due to being discontinued, can be found anywhere between $23,000 and $28,000.

23. Breguet Classique 7787 (ref. 7787BB/29/9V6)

Breguet is the third oldest watch brand in the world and can trace its history back to 1775. For decades Breguet has attracted enthusiasts with its timeless designs and unbelievable quality. These are just two of the many reasons the Breguet Classique 7787 is on our list.

The 7787 has a 39mm white gold case, fluted case band, and a sapphire display case back, so the Breguet Caliber 591 DRL can be seen. One of the standout features of this timepiece is the Grand Feu white enamel dial. The crisp white is perfectly coupled with the blued Breguet hands.

The well-proportioned moonphase sits at 12 o’clock while a power reserve indicator sits at 6 o’clock.

With an MSRP of $31,900, the Breguet Classique 7787 is a classically designed moonphase from one of the oldest watchmakers in the world.

24. H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon (ref. 1801-0402)

H. Moser & Cie. is a brand I have become increasingly infatuated with over the last few years. Not only do I find their beginnings as a true outsider in the watch world intriguing, I think that in the world of independent watchmaking, no one does it quite like they do.

Enter the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon, the sleekest, most ultra-modern, and minimalist timepiece on our list.

With a 42mm rose gold case, the Perpetual Moon offers a minimalistic moonphase display powered by the HMC 801, a movement that can accurately display the current phase of the moon within one day’s deviation every 1,027 years!

Accuracy and technology aside, the Perpetual Moon has an exquisite Aventurine dial that, in the right light, shines like the starry night sky. The Perpetual Moon is unfortunately limited to 50 pieces and MSRPs for $44,400.

25. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date (ref. 4010U/000G-B330)

If there is one feature on a timepiece that really gets my gears moving (all pun intended), it would have to be a retrograde complication. Whether it is for minutes, power reserve, or in the case of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde the date, I am here for them and will always be fascinated by them.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is a 42.5mm 18k white gold timepiece that has a case thickness of just 9.7mm.

With the retrograde date and the 12 o’clock position and the moonphase at the 6 o’clock position, this wonderfully symmetrical dial is easy to read and doesn’t feel cluttered.

The attention to detail is so well executed that the polished gold moon and starry sky moonphase complication has what looks to be constellations. It is powered by the Caliber 2460 R31L/1 and has an MSRP of $49,400.

26. Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune Black Sahara

Where to begin with the Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune Black Sahara? Well, I suppose we can dive right into the design since this is an Hermès timepiece, and it is certainly one of the best-designed watches on our list.

One of the most unique aspects of the de la Lune is the meteorite dial which gives the timepiece a truly extraterrestrial design language.

But, what truly makes this moonphase a work of art is the actual moonphase display. Instead of having a rotating disc that displays the current phase of the moon, the de la Lune utilizes the two discs showing the hours and minutes and the date to rotate over the dial, which portrays two mother-of-pearl moons.

What we are left with is a dual moonphase watch that shows the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Truly amazing, but being limited to 36 pieces and with an MSRP of $54,100, this one might be tough to find.

27. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase (ref. 192.025)

There isn’t much that can be said about A. Lange & Söhne that hasn’t already. So instead of waxing poetic about the brand and its sublime finishing and meticulous attention to detail, I’ll just jump right in with the details.

The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase is a platinum timepiece with a case diameter of 38.5mm with a case thickness of 10.2mm and is powered by the L121.3 manually wound movement with a 72-hour power reserve.

The Lange 1 Moonphase is without a doubt one of the highest finished watches on the list, and with an MSRP of $56,970, you can bet it will be a treasure to pass down for generations.

28. Patek Philippe Complications Moon Phase White Gold (ref. 5205G-013)

Patek, much like A. Lange & Söhne, has a reputation for perfection. Outside of the hype machine that is the Nautilus, Patek has been known for their amazing Grand Complications and truly beautiful design language.

So I’m sure it is no surprise that the Patek Philippe Complications Moon Phase White Gold is on our list. As the name suggests, the Complication Moon Phase has a white gold case that measures 40mm and has a case thickness of 11.36mm.

The intoxicating blue sunburst dial, which fades to black at the edges, meets the white gold applied indices rounding out an amazing layout that includes day, date, and month complications. Powered by the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206, the Moon Phase has an MSRP of $57,370. 

29. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Moonphase (ref. 26394BC.OO.D027KB.01)

The Code 11.59 had its fair share of haters when it was released. I was not one of them. I am particularly fond of the green-dialed three-hand variant. But that is neither here nor there.

While some will say they aren’t particularly unique or exciting, I think they will be surprised by the next watch on our list. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Moonphase has a case diameter of 41mm and comes in 18kt white gold.

With its absolutely breathtaking blue aventurine dial with white gold applied hour markers and hands, this timepiece is sure to blow the socks off of anyone, even if they aren’t watch people.

It is that beautiful! So for anyone looking for a uniquely beautiful 11.59, something that is, say, the cost of a condo, then boy, is the Perpetual Calendar Moonphase the watch for you. Coming in at an astounding $106,000, the Perpetual Calendar Moonphase certainly is a stunner. 

30. De Bethune DB25 Moon Phase Starry Sky

The last entry on what seems to be the watch equivalent of the Never-Ending Story is the De Bethune DB255 Moon Phase Starry Sky. For those who might be new to watches, De Bethune is an independent watch brand founded in 2002 that tends to make less than 150 watches per year. So, to say they are rare is an understatement.

With that said, if you are one of the select few to be part of the “club”, might I suggest trying to get yourself the De Bethune DB25 Moon Phase Starry Sky. In an attempt to keep the description short, we will be discussing the dial and all of its glory.

The blue titanium dial is accented by inlaid diamond indices and white gold stars, which do an incredible job of showing the beauty of a night sky. But what is truly amazing is the spherical palladium moonphase at 12 o’clock, which gives the dial a great sense of depth.

The case is made of 18kt white gold and has a case diameter of 40mm and a case thickness of 11.7mm. The watch is powered by a true work of art in the calibre DB2105 which is a masterfully crafted hand-wound movement.

While it is tough to price, the Starry Sky has been seen on the secondary market priced between $109,000 and $129,000.

Parting Thoughts

As I researched and researched and researched for this article, I found myself falling for this romantic, poetic, classical type of watch. I can’t say that in my time writing, I’ve never finished an article with so much passion and excitement for my next watch purchase. 

So take it with a grain of salt, but if you have a love for watches that are “other-worldly” but are very much grounded in classical watchmaking, please use this list as a stepping stone and resource to your very own moonphase watch.